Defender / Series - fitting the rear door glass the traditional way!

[@pjt.2829]

Thanks for all your videos. I'm new to Defender 300tdi. And you have been helping me sort problem out with it . Hope you had a good new yr PJ. UK.

[@pjt.2829]

Really helpful. 😊

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No problem 👍

[@thebudecanoeexperience4329]

Hi Mike! Thank you for this video. We did this job yesterday and the glass is in lovely! What I will say is that dumb dumb stuff is flipping sticky! Thanks again :-)

[@MAMDAVEM]

Perfect, this is a job I've lined up to do in the spring. The tip on the spacers is definitely something I would have missed Cheers!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

If you do not fit the spacers there is no room for sealer at the top - cable tie ends make great spacers Mike

[@Jottingsfrom]

Another great video Mike. Thanks for all you do.

[@48sydney]

I replaced my rear door on my Defender. I needed to make a "cheese wire" with some mig wire and 2 pieces of wood to cut through the old silicone to get the glass out of the old door. I preferred work on the old door and to put the glass into the new door with the door laying flat on the bench. Sealed and the aluminium trim fitted on the bench. That way the window is fixed and sealed horizontal and solves the issue of the glass sliding down ( or dropping it) if you leave it overnight horizontal for the silicon to harden. Its much easier on the bench.

[@Defender-Guy]

Very helpful, thanks for posting.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad it was helpful!

[@BigArch6564]

Great vlog. Why are there two tabs for the positive for heated screen?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

One positive the other to ground

[@BigArch6564]

@@BritannicaRestorations they both come up live via tester???

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Something wrong there!

[@themancambodia]

Now I know why mine broke twice!! Been using plastic glass ever seen haha

[@spencem6501]

I just got a new DDS Metal door. There are no holes for the aluminum retainers. Should I drill them after glass is in? I supposed I could just mock it, mark holes up take glass out, then drill.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Well, I hold the glass in with mastic as in the book and then drill the holes

[@jackmartin9008]

Hi mike. Do you have a video for 2004 onwards ? I have the new door/ glass and seal.... I understand the basics of using a string line to pull the rubber over the door but wanted to watch you doing it first. Cheers jack

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have nothing for Td5 as we have not many Td5 here = but sringing in the window is made a lot simpler but using WD40 and not soapy water

[@jackmartin9008]

@@BritannicaRestorations thanks mike I have been busy hoovering the old glass up and stripping the old door on to the new door, glass i'm leaving till last because I want to go and buy some tint before I install it as my rear side windows are tinted already...... theirs ONLY ONE BUGGER so far the rear doors grab handle has 4 retainer nuts that are on the old door and I can't get them out to fit on the new door at all I have already chipped the blade on my Leatherman knife and mullered one of these things trying so looks like my door cards going to be hanging off for a while without a handle.... and I need new cable tie clips for the wiring too :/ thanks for your reply much appreciated I will definitely be using WD40 soaps too preciouse nowadays can't be wasting that. haha! all the best stay safe ill probably post a video of pictures showing my door project some time. love your videos keep them coming even tho I have a td5. x

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The last time I did a Td5 rear door glass I laid the door flat on a table so you were not fighting with the glass - use a cord at least 1/4 inch thick - too thin and you can cut the rubber on the corners

[@metaldog7128]

Top job 👍

[@rockinghorsesciencemechani6020]

Question is, how you get the cable for the heated rear glass into the new door????? Help!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Feed a stiff bit of wire through the hole and then tape the cable to the wire and carefully pull it through

[@rockinghorsesciencemechani6020]

@@BritannicaRestorations cheers luv, ta very much indeed.

[@FPVsean]

Have you a link or name for the seal you added to the exterior? That's one part I'm missing for my window install for the rear door soon. On another note, have you painted galvanised metal much? My rear door is galv and when I install it I'd rather it be painted, before I get a full respray. I don't really want it to just be bare galv while driving around

[@johnchetwynd3618]

It looks like this stuff - www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-flexible-strip-caulk-dum-dum-replacement.html

[@BritannicaRestorations]

this is the caulk www.proformproducts.com/en/products/sealers/rubberized-sealers/dum-dum-strip-caulk/ You need to degrease and etch prime the galvanize first and then an epoxy primer

[@craig_chaznibond452]

I laughed way too much when that britpart ruler broke! Sorry Mike.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Quality eh?

[@S90Edg]

What would you use for chassis? Waxoyl? Will you be waxoyling this landy? Would love to see how to do it so I can do it on my mini. Thanks again for great vids.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I don't use Waxoyl in Canada as it gets to hard in the cold and water can get underneath it - I use a black wax based rustproofing called April for the chassis - in Europe you can use Dinitrol MIke

[@itolond]

Any guides on the puma rear door type - glass and seal?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You want to put the glass in?

[@itolond]

@@BritannicaRestorations yes - brand new door/glass and seal, any tips tricks (cant find much anywhere )

[@johnchetwynd3618]

Hi Mike, as always another excellent video. However, why did you not use the windscreen seal 78159 between the aluminium clamps and the glass? When I did mine I used windscreen seal from a caulking gun. I ran a bead all round the frame and “squished” the glass onto it. I then trimmed the excess off from the outside with an old credit card. Keep up the good work. I’ve directed people to your videos when a “how do I do this” type question pops up the forums I am on

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The original fitment has no seal between the clamp and glass on the inside - there is nothing to seal anyway I have seen people use silicone caulking but the problem is that they tend to put the glass in and it gets too close to the frame and can lead to the window shattering with vibration

[@stpaul69]

Mike, would the glass with the high mount brake light fit my 1993 110, which didn't come with that (I would like to wire that up). Both should fit right at 4mm?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes the glass will fit - the change to the Td5 rear door was completely different

[@bedmember]

What is the part number of the rear window with the defogger? Will you fit a third brake light on it?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

MTC8951 - I will not fit a High level light as is is not required and not an original fitment

[@bedmember]

@@BritannicaRestorations gotcha! Thanks for the info.

[@chrislendenbarnes7503]

I have seen people use the same style rear lights and put them on the roof part at the rear with link wire to normal break lights below. This way you have high level break lights that match

[@harveysmith100]

The only thing to criticize about that video was made by Britpart!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The ruler?

[@harveysmith100]

@@BritannicaRestorations Of course Mike! As usual an education, funny and entertaining video.

[@davidwoods80]

...wondering now if I can use dum-dum on my tile-to-bathtub joints, ha ha... I hate silicone too!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It actually comes in white! www.proformproducts.com/en/products/sealers/rubberized-sealers/dum-dum-strip-caulk/ 18152

[@bmc1569]

Britannica Restorations LTD. have a look DINITROL products. They aer very good for corrosion protect in the frame and inside doors.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not available here but I know it is good

[@motoninja2747]

what is this dumb dumb stuff u talk of all the time where might I get it in the uk?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Try 3M strip caulk