There might be a wiring diagram for that controller online. It would confirm those 2 pins are ground. The xbox v1.0-1.4 work fine without a clock cap but the v1.6 wont boot at all. Before i could afford a soldering gun i used a sewing pin the one with the coloured ball on top. Solder doesn't stick to it so i would heat up the pad and push the sewing pin through. It will create a hole which new caps will go through easy. For me it worked a treat.
@PainfulDwayne2 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing this Daz. I do need to look for a schematic for the board, I probably should have done it while testing 🤣 wow that's a neat little trick with the sewing pin 👌 might have to give that I try next time
@Roepieroepie2 ай бұрын
Great work!
@PainfulDwayne2 ай бұрын
Thanks mate!
@xS7EzRAGExАй бұрын
Nice job man !!
@PainfulDwayneАй бұрын
Thanks bro
@mkFix-pl3 ай бұрын
Great video. Seems you've grown more confident in your soldering/de-soldering! Super surprised that drilling the thumbsticks actually worked well. Regarding the controller. It's quite old so are you sure all the solder is fine? Getting continuity where you're supposed to get it? Would be nice to know what kind of faultfinding you did on it exactly. Ripping of the caps sounds dangerous for the board. A tip could be to remove the cap, and then mark the spot with a marking-pen of some sort :). Nice fix. I would love to see these things in the future: - Revisit on the controller - Completing the recap. Also, well done on the editing (both visually and with audio/music!)!
@PainfulDwayne3 ай бұрын
Wow thanks for all the feedback! Yes I think I'm getting better with basic soldering now. Taking a while and there's obviously things that dont even make a video for different reasons but I've been getting in a lot of practice. I actually did a lot of fault finding but when I was editing I think it came across boring because I came up empty handed and didn't find anything substantial so I left it out the video. It is too long as it is 🤣. But I tested all the caps on the board and not a sinfmgle one seemed to be grounded on both sides. Also, I removed the 3 IC's hoping to isolate the short but it was still there. I didn't test any of the registers because need to learn more about them and my multimeter doesn't have auto range so it's tricky for me knowing what resistance range to test on. There was some transistor/mosfett looking components - which I think is where the fault lies - that I didn't test simply because I don't know how haha. If I had a bench power supply I'd have put 1V 1A in the 5V pin and I think that would show the faulty component instantly. I did a bunch of research and most people say to just rip them off so I didn't think too much of it 😃 And thank you, I've been taking on board all the feedback from everyone and trying to produce better videos that are easier and more enjoyable to watch without the no audio parts!
@mkFix-pl3 ай бұрын
@PainfulDwayne no worries. I know myself that it's hard to know how to edit until someone points out the "obvious" flaws. 😂. Afaik there are N-channel and P-channel MOSFETs. Not really sure how to test them but if I remember correctly, drain should not be shorting to source? 🤔 Maybe that'll help you research how to test MOSFETs. As a matter of fact, I will check it out myself as well . Also noticed in the video that the disk tray worked perfectly. I have an old xbox I need to fix that you have to slap the top of it while pressing the eject button. Won't eject without a slap 😂. Think the rubber band might be faulty or something. But first I need to buy an av-cable. Looking forward to the next vid :)
@bellafiasandpuppies42202 ай бұрын
Great video keep it up
@PainfulDwayne2 ай бұрын
Thank you ☺️
@parawizard3 ай бұрын
After wicking the solder from through holes you can use the solder iron against each pin by heating it and pushing it away from the edge of the through hole. Often there is a bit of solder left and it's still attached to the side of the hole. I usually test each pin to be loose with some tweezers before pulling the component out. The port pinout is 5 pins but the cable going to the controller seems to be 6 pins. The 6th pin looks different and I am wondering if it's actually the cable shield connected to outer metal shield of the plug? Would make sense that it is shorted to ground? Did you test the controller plugged in and powered on to see if you had 5V? Powered off did you check white/blue data+/data- resistance to ground? I think it is red 5V, white USB-, green USB+, yellow Vsync, Black ground, heatshrunk shield which is probably grounded on the PCB? If it has a sat for a really long time sometimes the crystal or crystal oscillators become stuck. Do you have an oscilloscope? You've got two of them right beside that connector. Looks like 6MHz and maybe 8k or 8MHz? Just will be a sine wave at that frequency. The other thing you can do is put your meter in resistance/continuity/diode mode and probe both ways on that crystal. This is often enough for me to wake them up. For the capacitors buy yourself an Peak Atlas ESR75 meter. You'll be able to test most capacitors in circuit for ESR and capacity. Anything in parallel you'll have to check continuity and divide for capacity. Reversing the probes can help depending on the circuit if one way doesn't work. You'll find that caps near anything that gets hot tend to be the dead ones. Anything you can't measure with the ESR in circuit you can take out and test out of circuit.
@PainfulDwayne3 ай бұрын
Thanks for all this information and welcome back 😊 I didn't test for 5V while powered but in hindsight I should have! But when i de soldered the new cable i found that both the left most pads were shorted to ground - perhaps they're supposed to be but i don't have another one to compare with. I didn't even think to test those crystals with the meter because i don't have an oscilloscope nor do i know how to use one 🤣 nothing new there. But i will try and wake them up how you suggested when i take another look at it. I haven't heard of those type of meters before but it certainly sounds like a useful took to add to my kit! Along with a bench power supply and oscilloscope. Thank you again for your continued help 🙏
@parawizard3 ай бұрын
@@PainfulDwayne If you test the cable detatched from the board. Pin 5 goes to the ground pin inside the connector and pin 6 likely goes to the metal shield of the connector. It may or may not be shorted on the cable itself. Likely though it is on the mainboard. If those two pins are the black + heatshrunk wire I am almost 100% sure it's ground and shield.
@PainfulDwayne3 ай бұрын
I'll have to get back to you once I've checked 🤣
@parawizard3 ай бұрын
Also depending on your meter speed you should be able to see some movement in DC volts mode on data pins or at least a min/max to see if you have any communication either way.
@davedm63452 ай бұрын
Nice, i was in the same situation back in the days with a Ps one and i just leave it maybe was the same like this with those smd capacitors?
@PainfulDwayne2 ай бұрын
Love the Ps One! Yes it's possible. Less likely if it was a newish console though
@esraeloh86812 ай бұрын
Aren't most of those replacement cables unshielded?
@PainfulDwayne2 ай бұрын
Honestly I'm not sure what that means haha
@NomanTeewno-rz2yz2 ай бұрын
I just bought yesterday this XBOX from local markete in ten dollar. I dont know how to play this