Broken Stud Removal in Exhaust Manifold

[@johnsmith7709]

ABom, You are a young man and I am 73 YO in a month. I have seen 10, 000 broken studs and broken bolts removed in my life. I am not a machinist. And never will be. But, what I saw you do in this video was the most accurate and professional way to remove a broken stud that I have ever seen in my entire life. Sir, it is a joy to watch you work. I salute you for your astounding knowledge. I think you are genius. I know you would never admit to that, but you are. If I owned a company you could name your own salary to work for me. It is a pleasure to see your videos. I am sure your Dad and Granddad are incredibly proud of you.(I saw them pictured in a previous video. I and think they are Dad and Granddad. If not please forgive me.) Oh, what you called a butterfly are what we once referred to as a heat riser. Of course, they are no longer on automobiles. Anyway, That is not being critical, just you are young and may not have known. Of course, vernacular has changed a bit in the last 70+ years. I cant wait to see more of your videos. You are never too old to learn and I always learn from you. If I had had a son, I would want him to be like you. My sincere thank you for these informative videos.Keep up the good work. John

[@robertlangley258]

John Smith .....i totally agree sir.

[@jeromeduffy9270]

You said a mouth full. All true

[@daleburrell6273]

...YOU BETCHER LIFESAVERS-!!

[@gtsteve9481]

great to read such respectful words from someone who's probably forgotten more than I'll ever know - I'm starting to miss that old fashioned respect - it's disappearing from our world ..... to have a nice word for someone doesn't seem to be cool anymore. Good on you John.

[@mattfleming86]

I'm a couple years late to this, but that was so sincere. Hope you are doing well, sir.

[@jamesharold5853]

Great job I learn something every time I watch you. I am retired now but you make us older guys smile for doing the job with care and thinking about what you are doing. Hats off to your Dad and Grandfather for teaching you the correct way. Keep going young man thanks.

[@cozmium]

I have several classic cars and the amount of rusted out bolts i've manually drilled out and/or had to re-tap is enough to make you need a beer. Watching this was extremely satisfying. Thanks as always Adam, love to see you work - even on the most simple of projects it's extremely cathartic.

[@tm71100]

Real man doing real work. GOD bless you brother from a 22 yr Volvo expert certified technician. I have seen my share of rusted exhaust bolts and what not. We are a dying breed. Hard to find anyone these days under 40 years old that can fix anything other than a computer. Subscribed

[@williamlane9140]

This obviously isn't about saving time. It's about doing it correctly by a skilled Craftsman. Nice work.

[@barryiwashita6352]

More time .. more money.....he said hopefully.... easiest way.. drill a hole take your cut torch ( manifold cold ) blow out ( carefully) the rest of the stud starting with the edge of the drilled hole... taking out broken studs and bolts was part of my everyday work... the stud or bolt is mild steel .. it will always get blown away a lot faster than cast.... trick is don’t try to blow all of it out up to the treads... possible if you have good control of torch and a clean tip.. but u always can clean out the rest with a tap that manifold is a bolt through .. the easiest kind to deal with...👍🏼.... oh yeah.. I’m poor....lol

[@augustinelandicini9813]

Stellar job very well executed with precision and confidence. This is the guy I would take my parts to. I’m am not a fan of rushing or cutting corners, and it takes sure takes a humble and thoroughness of character to really appreciate this type of skill and patience. Thank you for this video!

[@anthonyjoseph6137]

Eee@@barryiwashita6352

[@MrTonyBrooklyn]

It is always about time. Time is money when your running a business.

[@spicy110]

Seeing that thread being pulled out in one is one of the most satisfying thing I've seen in a long time! 😄

[@ronrobertson3381]

Refreshing to see a PRO at work using patience and experience to do the job.

[@Changtent]

My compliments for a very well made video Adam, thx. As a retired HD mechanic, I too have faced this problem many times. i.e. Broken studs rusted into an exhaust manifold. There is another trick in addition to the machining which may help. When you heat the part as you did in the beginning, squirt it with engine oil - lots, enough to soak it well. Just regular SAE30 works best, or 10W-30 works too. There will be a LOT of smoke so you need an exhaust extractor, or very good ventilation. Repeat up to 3 or 4 times if needed. The oil will actually work its way into the old threads and assist the removal. Frequently not requiring machining. If you can get a small amount of movement in the broken stud, then work it back & forth applying more oil until it comes out. The real trick to this is to NOT USE WD40 or similar penetrating oil once you get to heating the part. I love WD40 and use it extensively, however penetrants don't work well with heat. The engine oil has detergents in it that breakdown the rust much, much better when applied to heated parts. And yup, you may still need to machine the stud out. I too have peeled-out old threads as you show here.

[@keving9777]

Hey Jim next time try transmission fluid that works really good to with heat..

[@dashlamb9318]

Adam, you made it look tooooo easy! I've done similar "broken exhaust stud" removals with a cordless drill, countless broken drill bits, Benzomatic Map/Pro torch, never quite finding center - center punching, and enough cussing to make a Cape Cod sailor blush. As a mere mortal, I've always wondered how a Machinist God would remove a broken exhaust stud. Now I know. Backyard mechanic Troglodytes, like myself, can only give thee Worship. Thanks for sharing.

[@daleburrell6273]

...maybe the fact that he was using a vertical mill had SOMETHING to do with it?! Trying to do something like THAT with a "cordless drill" would take a HECK of a lot of skill- and a good bit of LUCK! ...it's POSSIBLE, but that's about all-!!

[@stephenshoemate6678]

A friend showed me the best way in cast iron. Heat with torch until red hot, and tap a couple times with a hammer. Drop a washer over it, that slightly clears, and arc-weld the washer to the stud through the hole. Put a nut on top, and weld it to the washer. Let cool for 5 or so minutes, then screw it out. Best method I've ever seen.

[@oldamericaniron5767]

I agree entirely, have done it countless times in my life.

[@silleywilley]

As a 20 year mechanic, I can appreciate the precision here Adam. Usually I’m doing this overhead getting hot chips down my neck and penetrating oil dripping in my eyes lol. Then it’s still crooked and I end up pulling some threads😂 nice work as usual my friend.

[@IBWatchinUrVids]

Yeah, I've got a motorhome with a 454, broken exhaust studs (what a surprise). I have the tools to do it in the shop, but do you really want to pull the heads for 2 lousy broken bolts? Always a hard decision which way to go about it.

[@silleywilley]

IBWatchinUrVids right? And if you pull it to do on the bench, how many studs are you going to snap in the head? Lol

[@ttokar74]

Всю жизнь проработал токарем в России и в первый раз вижу что бы так аккуратно высверливались старые шпильки и остатки резьбы удалялась как проволока. Это просто СУПЕР !!! All my life I worked as a turner in Russia and for the first time I see old studs drilled so neatly and the remnants of the thread were removed like wire. It is great !!!

[@brianwood7480]

Man, I can't believe all the negative comments. This craftsman was illustrating the many different and separate skills it takes to do a very precise job, the the best way he knows how. I would do it his way if I had the equipment. Your customers will be happy with the results. Ps, there should DEFINITELY be a metal (copper sandwich) gasket between the manifold and head. Then re-torque the manifold bolts in a couple of hundred miles. Nice work & well explained.

[@AmosBHaven]

What REALLY surprised me was how the owner of the car got all those manifold bolts out, and ended up having to bring the manifold with head attached! Thumbs up to BOTH of y'all!

[@americanfreedom6417]

Or he will fight it on the car and is not willing to pull the head to bring it to the pro.

[@rogerbois1128]

I'm a tool maker and what I have done in the past with broken bolts was weld a bead inside of the washer hole smaller then the bold dia. Then weld a nut on top of the washer. After it cools the heat and shrinking will loosen the bolt. Then on screw the broken bolt out. Other times I drill a hole through the center of the broken bolt just under the tread depth and with a center punch collapse the tread wall out. Both work well.

[@Spinnaker617]

Iv'e been a machinist for 36 years. Great extraction job Abom.To the guys wanting to weld a washer and nut to the old stud or similar, yes it sometimes works. When it fails because the weld breaks and you've tried to drill it and your drill went off center into the threads.........oops.To the guys that suggest blowing out the bolt with a torch, yes it sometimes works. When it fails and the hole is enlarged because the threads get damaged........oops.Due to the nature of our job we have a lot of tooling we use to perform different extraction attacks. Since extractions are so common in the machine shop it's the experience that matters most. To be completely transparent, botched extractions by the customer are the most common thing I see and despite their best intentions they will have turned a simple extraction job into a hopeless disaster.

[@hfdzl]

Been a welder/ machinist/ mechanic for many years, I have removed 95% of broken studs with welding washer and nut method. Lot easier than trying to set up in a machine. To each his own.

[@Spinnaker617]

@Joby Fluorine You nailed it Joby. They don't need to know about welding a nut to a stud. I got bills to pay.😁

[@jm1551701]

I worked in the exhaust business for many years, and one of our specialties was removing broken studs from exhaust manifold, and the one in your video was one we would see a lot, and sometimes we did not have the luxury of doing it on the bench, we would almost always have to service them on the car, Chevy's where the worse, with there 3/8s stud, ford's where commonly 7/16 of which made it a little more easy as well where Chrysler, I have literally removed Chevy studs that look like an hour glass and was even told you will never get those out they will snap specially when you start putting heat around them, well to me that was a challenge and my boss after they where cooled would put them on display in the waiting room for all to see, and some even had some twist in them, the one in your video I would have used a small brazing tip on my torch heated up the ears of the manifold and since there was some stud left on the other side of the ear, taken plyers and reversed the stud just enough to poke through on the exhaust end to braze or MiG on a bolt enough on the old stud that is now protruding enough to catch some meat on it, heat up the ear and with a ratchet slowly back it out, I very rarely had to drill out.I have literally done 100s of these, not to offend , but in the time it took you to set up the manifold in your drilling jig I would have already had both studs removed with no damage at all to the manifold, and all what would have been left was to chase a tap through the holes and good to go, like I said we did these well still on the car, and as for the heat risers like tat set have seen a lot those froze up and removed a lot of them basically the same way you did,

[@SuperAWaC]

you have the benefit of doing hundreds of them, hindsight is 20/20

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

How would a person locate a shop in his locality where they have experts in broken stud removal - I.e. how do you separate skill and experience from talk? Thanks to Abom79 for making the video, and thanks to Joe Marco for sharing his experience in this area.

[@keithhansen3963]

This is a example of a full scale real journeyman machinist. 90% of machine shops wouldn't be able to even do this. They would tell the customer to take it to a welder. The welder would tell them to take it to a machinist first. Well done Adam.

[@DanneZzZ]

Or the mechanic does it himself:)

[@rvarnum]

Six other ways to do this, but the hardest way and the most precise way with almost no risk is this way. Fun to watch someone who has the right tools.

[@ianstoys13mgs]

Same old story, having the right tools for the job and patience. 10/10

[@ma61king]

Watching those threads peel out in a nice spiral was extremely satisfying

[@stevelescom4336]

Strange how some ppl have to criticize a repair ! If it's a hard to find part one cant take a chance on a backyard method !I think it was a great safe way to remove studs with no chance of failure ! Thanks for the Vid ... PS: I would do the same thing ...

[@graemetoobux8953]

If I was down to my last manifold with 2 busted rusted bolts I would be looking for a guy like this to fix it knowing he would do the job properly without risking busting my manifold, what a master craftsman!

[@user-uv4xe3cq2y]

A pleasure to watch a craftsman at work. Thanks for making this video available.

[@sbalneav]

There's literally nothing more satisfying than watching a man who knows what he's doing work.

[@dreiher2]

Cool. Nice end mill. I wish I had something like that. I have done many of these old manifolds for restorations. It takes me about 10 minutes. You need a mig welder, and washers and nuts the correct size. I take an angle grinder or dremel and grind the end that protrudes out until you just start hitting the manifold. On some manifolds that top hole is a blind hold, so you can skip this step. Many times the stud does not break flush with the casting. If the stud is badly rusted so it is just a small stump, I grind it down to the flange. A nut will not be able to grab that small stump. Then if the stud broke flush with the casting, hit it lightly with a dremel where it broke and make it shiny. If it broke below the surface. Hit it with a die grinder type of dremel bit, or a small stone bit, and clean it up and make it shiny. Then build up the broken off stud with mig wire until it is about 1/8-1/4 of an inch above the flange surface. The mig will not make a bond to the casting, but try not to hit it too much. Make sure you get good penetration on the stud itself. The heat from the mig welding helps shock the rust bond loose. I get a washer that is about the same diameter of the stud. I center the washer over the weld protrusion I just created. Mig weld that protrusion onto the washer. Grind it flat, if it got too messy. Weld a nut to the washer around the outside perimeter of the nut, keeping the weld low so you don't make the nut flats too big for the socket to fit over any more. Grind if you got messy or too high on the nut. You only need really about 3/16 of an inch of the top of the nut to grab with the impact gun/socket. Do the same on the other stud, or all three studs if there are 3. When everything is dressed and ready to impact out, preheat the entire flange using that nice rosebud tip like he did until it just turns red. Pick a stud to do first. Get that one flange/stud area red, and set down the torch. Hit it immediately with a 3/8 impact wrench and back it out. You should not need a 1/2 inch impact gun. If it does not budge, heat it again. A 1/2 impact wrench will most likely break the weld off before budging the stud out. While the entire casting is still real hot, hit the remaining flange/stud(s) quickly with the torch to get it red. Hit it with the 3/8 impact wrench. Do the third stud the same way. If the nut and washer breaks off without bringing the stud with it, move on to the next. Start over on any of the welds that broke loose building up that stud again with the mig wire, weld another washer and another nut. Pre heat the whole flange, and focus on the remaining stud/flange(s). If after 2 tries it will not come loose, I drill and tap. I have done this many times with the manifold still on the car, but it is much easier with the manifold(s) off the engine.

[@ZerokillerOppel1]

How you describe it is indeed the way it's mostly done in shops and "in the field". Adam is showing us the neat and very correct way to do it with his machines. Most of us don't have acces to those and must resort to your way.

[@popsgoneracing]

I have never had to drill out a broken stud and I have never used a mill to do the job. Simply weld a 3/8 washer onto the broken stud. Then weld a similar sized bolt onto the washer. Cool the bolt with your water spray avoiding spraying the manifold . Heat the manifold around the stud quickly before the broken stud heats up too much then with a tbar and single hex socket on the bolt you welded on you should be able to work the broken stud out and save the manifold thread. You could do both in the time you did one. Been doing this on car repair for 40 years

[@GlockmanGG]

I use a tig welder , put a couple of dots of weld on the broken off stud the weld a bolt onto it , heat up the flange and turn out the broken stud , retap the hole and off you go , worked for me for 30 years, later

[@nakamakai5553]

Adam, this is not a trivial problem, and thank you for sharing a correct way to do this for those who know-how and have and the correct tools. Not all of us have such a complete shop, nor the experience and skill-memory to do this on the spot, but that's what these videos are for. Well done, another great bit of content. Thanks.

[@reddersuk4039]

Great work, people not listening to what you said, you did what the customer wanted you to do - respect Sir

[@robertoswalt319]

Looks like they did the smart thing in bringing it to you instead of breaking off an easy out trying to do it themselves. It shows your attention to detail in checking the manifold surface for flatness. Great video Adam

[@samdavis5079]

No such thing as an easy out, break one and you will understand. I have had plenty of people bring them damn things in over the years, and say they broke an "easy out" off. I tell them it's time and materials to remove it.

[@robertoswalt319]

engine building machinist Over the past 30 years I have never liked either the square or spiral ones. My brother and I gave up on them when we were kids repairing lawnmowers.

[@andyZ3500s]

If I could invent a true it comes out easy my life style would certainly change.

[@MrWaalkman]

I think that maybe, just once, the EasyOut actually did the trick. Almost useless.

[@realanimal3602]

Well I enjoyed the video. I'll be honest I don't think this is how it's done most of time for most people. Having said that, the studs are out and threads are saved. I see a lot negative comments and a lot of "you should have" comments. Here's an idea, if you can do it better then make a video of you doing better and post it.

[@ricktalbott9611]

I've seen guys drill a small hole in a broken stud and like this where a little was sticking out, put a nut around the stud and with a wire feed welder weld the nut to the stud. Let it cool and since the center was drilled the stud can shrink and then come out pretty well that way too. I'm not going to judge how you do it because every chef has their own way to cook !

[@alfredmorency8296]

He used that technique for another job.

[@emilloffler1216]

Yeah, my trade. Had my own business at for many years, milling machines, lathes, slotting machine for keyways, all the usual machine shop gear, did most of my own work hands on. Kind of very nostalgic to watch it being done by you now, as I have sold up for retirement a few years ago. And at 72 years old I can still do the same kind of work.

[@tomsawyer4776]

Most people have no knowledge of how easily cast iron cracks. You did a pro job on a piece that you wanted to save from cracking. Great work.

[@MarkK01]

Very meticulous. It is nice to see someone that is so careful with their work. I see all the arm chair machinist are in the crowd lol. Thank you for sharing and great job. You made a piece that is very rare and unusable to useable again.

[@Chev-pu5yo]

Yeah, toolmaker for over thirty years. I used to do that type of work on a regular basis. It helps to spray in that knock her loose in while it is hot. DONT BREATHE IT ! Works just like the man says.

[@Abom79]

I used to spray in penetrating oil at the old shop like you mentioned cause we had a 4' wall fan that pulled air through the shop. With my current shop I hate smoking the place up while running ac.

[@bmwrider-nl8in]

Great Equipment and great workmanship ! I was sorry when I retired and moving I sold a lot of my stuff but I wouldn't have used the big stuff again at my age and the cost of moving it at my age didn't make sense anyway after moving I found out I have Cancer.

[@albymangled]

People who repair and restore old cars are truly thankful for the few who like yourself can be bothered to repair rather than replace. Thank you.

[@nickdepietto]

When you have the right person using the right tools with experience it's priceless.

[@ampman45]

Its refreshing to see a true Tradesmen work his craft, nice shop, great video...

[@youtubasoarus]

Awesome that you managed to get those out of there and use the original thread! I thought you'd have to enlarge it and retap it oversized. Amazing work! Anyone who's dealt with those kinds of things happening (seized, broken studs) it's so satisfying to see that result. :)

[@davidkott6959]

It is so very satisfying extracting a rusted bolt out of a bit-of-car. Exhaust manifolds are the holy grail of rusted fastener extractions.

[@michaeleubanks1225]

You sure are the kind of American that makes this country great God bless you and your family

[@johnrtrucker]

My father and i always enjoy your videos and when you began to check tge flatness of the gasket face just reminded me why i love this channel THAT is customer service right there!

[@Rich206L]

I think that butterfly was called a "Heat Riser". It was supposed to help the engine warm up faster. Suckers always started to rattle after a while...

[@Polar_Ted]

I think they are supposed to force exhaust through the intake exhaust crossover port to warm the carb when it's cold. I always plugged those ports when I was building a performance engine.

[@gunlover1955]

I have done this both ways and welding a nut on the broken stud or bolt seems to be faster and works almost every time I just cut the stud flat on both sides and place a flat washer over the stud then weld a nut to the stud they turn right out after it cools off for a minute. I wish I could put pictures on here but I am 67 and don't have the skills to show you >>

[@steveunholzer2056]

definitely the best way in my opinion

[@infoanorexic]

The "Butterfly" is what I've always known as a "heat riser." It was supposed to be closed, according to temperature, to force heat back up under the carburetor when the engine was cold, so the fuel/air would mix better until the engine was warmed up. They were prone to failure. Stick open, stick shut (causing valve damage), or the thermostatic coil would break in some cases, causing disconcerting noises when at an idle. I think the advent of TBI/DFI systems rendered their need to "obsolete." I had a '61 F-85 at one time. 215 ci aluminum block V-8 that had an amazing amount of 'snap' for the amount of weight it was pulling. It had the hydromatic 3 speed (no torque converter) that would give you whiplash when it shifted out of first unless you took off with your foot in it. That caused me to have more than one discussion with local cops because I overshot, momentarily, the "unposted urban speed limit" of 25 mph.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

We had an F-85 with aluminum V8, convertible! Don't recall anything odd about how it shifted but my father "thought" he felt it was loosing speed up a hill he always traveled so traded it in on a '69 350 Chevelle. Those were the days! ;)

[@infoanorexic]

@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Understanding how the transmission was supposed to work was key to getting the car to perform. "S" (for "super") range was supposed to be used in hilly/mountain areas, to get the best performance. In "S" the transmission would not shift to high gear until you hit 60 mph. The gear ratios were (1)3.5 -1 (2)1.5 - 1 (3)1 - 1. So 1 - 2 shift could be quite rough when you were pulling easy, 2 - 3 shift was hardly noticeable in comparison. It was all explained in the driver's manual, but like today, who sat down to read it all back then??? It hardly mattered anyway, because back then the nationwide top speed limit was 55 mph ... Of course, after I finally learned how it was supposed to work, I cheated. I took lesser patrolled State roads, at night, and opened it up when no one else was out there. It was a whole different car at 60 and over. The Chromatic rings I'd put in the engine finally seated, and it didn't handle like a boat on the water.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

Fascinating story! :) I'm sure there was nothing wrong with his F-85, he was funny that way. I loved that car though, never understood trading it off and have always wanted another since. FWIW, the only Oldsmobile piece I've managed to get my hands on is a great running 455 in a jet boat, lol. I'll never let it go.

[@johnturnbull3361]

very good youre a man after my own heart.just over a year ago i had retirement forced upon me by big business and i lost everything! my business my lathe and all the rest of it,as a result when i watch you and others like you it makes me frett,and oh how i envy you and all the rest.So now my future is watching these u tube videos .Its obvious you are a fine engineer and this being so would you mind if i could give you some tips on problems that i have dealt with over the past seventy years in the hope i might pass on my life time experience to you and others.Thank you for reading this and keep up your exellent work . Kindest Regards J.T

[@glenncunningham4679]

Enjoyed watching your thoroughness performing the bolt removal.

[@ramanshah7627]

Wow, the peanut gallery here is brutal...the many alternative methods I saw in the comments are almost universally meritorious, but what's with the anger? - Adam machines large industrial parts for a living. If that's what I did and was equipped to do for a living, I'd also mill the studs out. The repair was done and done beautifully. It's certainly not cost-effective (either in capital or labor costs) to do automotive broken stud removal like this on a production basis. But it was a one-off; he doesn't run a muffler shop! - It's nice to have a lower-risk option like this. He mentioned that the manifold, by virtue of its 55-year age, is more-or-less irreplaceable. Working on a mill offers a bigger margin of safety compared to more freehand methods (hand drill) or ones that get closer to cooking the cast iron (welding on nuts; melting out the stud with a cutting torch).

[@jmrico1979]

My thoughts exactly. Apparently some people take offense when they see someone doing things a different way or trying a different approach. Weird.

[@davidfrank6666]

what was the price-- 250$? what else ?

[@milotorres6894]

Precision is not most ppls wheelhouse seeing a pro make little of a small job 👍 excellent results in a well equipped shop ,hack shows are fun to watch no pun intended by even craftsman once in awhile necessity will always be the mother of all invention in any setting...

[@Sgt_Kilborn]

Exaxtly right. Couldn't have said it better myself. There's just certain jobs that require a machinist to extract busted off bolts from expensive and irreplaceable parts

[@whiplashmachine]

Working in an automotive machine shop I regularly extract broken bolts and studs for folks. Done thousands over the last 26 years and many by hand. My mills are my go to these days for these jobs as alot of the time someone has already given their attempt and made a mess for me to fix. Many commenters think this was "too much effort" or "cost too much". Reality is this took about an hour to do all the work the way he did it. Seems like pretty good work for whatever his price may of been. I would've done it mostly the same (and I do this regularly) and billed it out at $150. Yet to have a customer complain about the cost to save his parts.

[@Bitterrootbackroads]

Nice machine work. I guess on something rare one can afford to do it like that. In 1970s-80s era engine rebuilding shops we did a lot 361-391 heavy duty Ford truck heads, typically with 3-5 rusted in & twisted off exhaust manifold bolts in each one. A 3/16” hole was drilled through on the drill press, blow the rest out with torch, and run an old tap through with cutting oil to get the slag out of the good threads. In addition to the valve job we tacked on $5 per broken bolt removed, and made more than shop hourly rate. Amazing how steel can be burned out of cast iron threads without damaging them. A few seconds of heat till red, hit the oxygen, wiggle torch around a bit to get the sides, done. On through holes everything blows out the back, blind holes it all comes back at you and torch tip needs frequent cleaning.

[@Waffle_cones]

I swear, you remind me of a surgeon sometimes with your determined dedication to doing your best on each job...👍

[@sharonfulton1119]

When I see people like this I miss my father as he was a machinist/ welder. Excellent video, Keep up the good work, Jim Fulton

[@briangarcia8986]

Being a machinist for forty years. When you started the project I said to myself he'll only be able to retrieve one thread out of the two broken studs. It's funny how we rarely get a break LOL. Nice video.

[@jeromeduffy9270]

I said too. Its satisfying to get that break

[@iandennis7836]

Nice tools, beautiful job and most of all, a very skilled operator. Fab job, pity there ain't more people like you still around, we chuck away far too much stuff that's still reclaimable.

[@MrEd-fu3dq]

Damn, that is sure a sweet feeling when you peel or "uncoil" the thin shell of the stud out of the hole! I have never used (or even had access to) a milling machine, but I have drill out many dozens of snapped studs over my 30+ years as a master automotive technician (and the shop owner) - using a hand held drill motor in most cases and a only few using a floor mounted drill press. Most of the time it wasn't the rarity of the part as with antiques that determined the course of action to save the part, but rather the lead time to obtain a replacement part for an imported automobile which could take weeks to get.

[@chevymarineretired]

I’ve found that if you heat the cast and put candle wax on the broken bolt, it will pull the wax into the thread as it cools and work much better than any penetrating oil out there. Give it a try. Learned that from and old time engine builder.

[@senderzeyv4292]

Thanks a lot. The flanges with broken bolts are usually on the car. I found they can be quickly drilled out with a cheap carbide tipped masonry bit. Cut the stump flush with a cutoff wheel, start thin any thin high speed drill to make a dimple in the middle, and use a 3/8" carbide tipped bit to do the rest. Gets through completely in 2-3 minutes (with a high speed bit, 2 hours).

[@peterward5723]

Great job. Pleasure to watch vintage parts restored.

[@richardwolske2015]

Nice , great vide . I use heat then weld a larger nut onto the broken stud . It almost always come out after the welding . Not many of us motor heads got a shop as nice as yours ! Good job .

[@greenbudkelly2820]

Richard Wolske almost was not an option in this case.

[@pcat1000]

That Olds manifold is a beautiful piece of cast iron. Thin wall, made from the best material and processes acquired during ww2. Nice work, you brazed the whole face around the hole. I wouldn't have thunk it.

[@rickw4160]

I think by building and capping, he could easily grind it off, should the owner decide he needed it to install the butterfly again.

[@seanlathbury5410]

It's not my car...it's not my shop or responsibility......but I feel very relieved they came out. Nice work.

[@littlephilo585]

Many methods for this issue! This is the most bestest if you have the part out and the tooling! The nut welding method is only reliable on aluminum parts with iron bolts for those concerned about Aboms skill and patience!! Great job Abom!!!

[@scwaty180]

One of the best feelings when working on a vehicle and you're able to get a broken bolt out and the threads are still clean

[@alexbrown1995]

A pleasure to watch a true professional taking his time and using his skills. Great stuff, mate.

[@tomshaw661]

clean too

[@ccfd1996]

You do good work Brother. Nice to see people put pride in their work these days.

[@bimmermavenwrench1660]

not sure if any other mention of this... brass brazing rod melts around 800C; loses strength at only 200C. Red hot exhaust manifold (probably not on a stock 64 Buick!) is around 1200C. so, if expecting full exhaust temps....turbos....consider tapping hole and plugging love the channel.... i'm lucky to have a mill, lathe, and welders....and the opportunity to learn from real machinists. thanks for your efforts! and...keep losing weight...been there, done that. you'll be glad you did.

[@markshort9098]

Plenty of exhaust manifolds have been successfully brazed up over the years

[@RobertPerrigoOkiechopper]

I'm so happy I'm a member of KZbin's best machine shop channel and learn so much from a 3rd. generation machinist as knowledgeable as Mr. Adam Booth.

[@gary467]

You can never find these shops when you really need them, thanks for the video.

[@piperjohn_3]

These broken bolt/stud videos are such crowd pleasers. I think puling the thread pieces out with pliers is actually more satisfying to watch than spinning it out. It's like getting rid of something stuck in your teeth. Great job videoing the brazing--you must have used some kind of filter?

[@olddave4833]

always turn the gas off first an the ox last, keeps a fire from going up in the mixing chamber,, the old way we done it separated the men from the boys, place a 1/2 nut over the stud and reach thru with a stick rod and weld the nut to the stud and crank it out, no expensive tools involved as not many shops if any had them. most would have had the stud out while you were looking for your tools.

[@Rubbernecker]

Nice job! I can't help but notice how clean and neat your shop is. You'd be appalled to see mine... 😎

[@gnbaird1123]

Hey it's very important to have an orderly shop. My secret is keeping every thing on the floor with the dirt grease and trash. The grease oil and dirt is my rust prevention. I have yet to have a delicate part fall off the floor and break in a million pieces. And tiptoeing through all the debris keeps my balance in check.

[@garystratton4125]

Ha! I always admired and respected those with a clean workshop. When it comes to disorganized areas... Sounds like Scott K. is a brother !! Mine may even be worse.

[@theupscriber65]

I think I am addicted to your videos. Next time you have a broken stud in a through hole try this if you can get to the back side: After heating and cooling fill the backside with high pressure grease (important step) and drill it out from the back. If you need to plunge an end mill into the bolt to make a hole for the grease that's ok. This method will normally push the bolt out. This way you are not trying to push the bolt through cruddy/rusty threads and have never had a bolt through them or may not be tapped all the way through.

[@fredpick1283]

take a torch and clean off the bolt then get a nut that will just fit over the bolt .weld it to the old bolt ,i use a 7018 rod turn up the current a little bit and weld the nut and the bolt wait until it cools off to a dull red and screw it out works every time

[@jacquespoirier9071]

your work is more than excellent, there is so many ways to do a job of removing seized threads, the one you use is the one any machinist should master because these is situation where welding a nut over the remaining stud is not adequate, I think of a stud ( or a bolt ) frozen in an aluminum part that is not removable by the heat method.

[@Abom79]

That’s what I say to the guys who get on here and blast away that I’m wasting my time. I’ve used the welding method countless times. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Sometimes it creates more mess to clean up then it’s worth.

[@tomp538]

It's all in the setup! I doubt welding a nut to those broken studs would have worked, as a few posters have commented.

[@dondakota920]

You are correct there is not enough to weld to, but a pilot hole and an easy out would get the job done as long as you get the manifold hot enough.

[@terryfromsouthcarolina4601]

Work fast with that EZ out though. The heat will draw the hard out of the edges real fast.....

[@-BuddyGuy]

A guy loves his car and wants it original so much he doesn't take the manifold to a mechanic, he takes it to a machine shop. He wanted it 100% original, guaranteed to work. The job in this video is exactly what the owner wanted and the suggestions in the comments are what he didn't want to risk, however small the risk might have been.

[@steven.h0629]

Remember when there used to be a machine shop on every corner.. not so much anymore.

[@AmosBHaven]

@@steven.h0629 Know why? Governments don't WANT creative thinkers! They want blind followers drinking their kool-aid!

[@brianbonner8069]

Great job ! My Dad was a machinist for many years until he retired it really is a lost art these days

[@edwardenglish1519]

Great video, I have drilled a lot of exhaust manifold studs out of Cat 3406 heads on the engine which are notorious for breaking naturally because of the manifold weight. I would slowly drill stepping up in bit size after each pass while cooling my bit with water every minute or so. When I could just begin to see the thread, I would pop the edge out with a small cape chisel and could usually wind it out like you did, and then chase the hole with a bottoming tap. Lots of delicate work not to destroy a head.

[@andrewlightwood3895]

Retired machinest my self sir , these CNC machines are great for mass production , but can't beat a good man on a manual machine

[@whistlindixiesmallengine2085]

Why are a bunch of yall hating? If you can use a torch or weld a nut on it good for you I have done the same thing myself but the point of these videos is he has a machine shop and hes showing yall how HE does it with the equipment HE has for those of us that don't have a Bridgeport etc we use a torch or weld a nut but this is how he does it and that's just fine and I like watching him do it I also like watching alternate ways of doing things that's actually the right way to do it using a torch or welding a nut on it isn't actually the correct procedure quit hating and just enjoy a professional at work

[@hugorujeles87]

Fully right, good point he's not putting u into headlock and saying DO IT THIS WAY, its just a pro giving pointers to the general public, just chill and enjoy the ride. ✌

[@scottfirman]

If you own a garage, you don't have time to use such equipment and honestly, the owner of the vehicle could care less. No service center is going to use a mill to do what he did. You just don't have that kind of time. I have done many broken stud jobs on the vehicle. If you can avoid removing the manifold, you do. Even then, its a vice, a drill and a tap, a mill is NOT required.

[@georgesantamaria5105]

The most clever trick I have seen for a problem like that is to take a flat washer with a matching diameter and arc weld it to the broken stud. While it is still hot, apply liquid wrench penetrating oil, wait a bit and then get it out with a pair of vise grips. The sudden, localized heat from arc welding makes the rust release itself.

[@jeromeduffy9270]

Seen Andrew Camarata doit on his Channel

[@darinmckillop6196]

Done that many times but also heated it with torches

[@bradouellette6558]

I’m a woodworker but appreciate other tradesman , especially liked the close up of the brazing , never really seen it up close like that , great video 👍

[@ColdWarVet607]

That was amazing! I can't believe you pulled out a corkscrew sliver of the remaining bolt, way cool & beyond talented. Loved watching. Thanks much!

[@darrellblanchard2362]

Bolts like those can be cut out with an oxyacetylene cutting torch. It won't harm the cast iron at all. Then just run a tap through to clean threads.

[@EddSjo]

That's what I would have tried

[@davidjames1063]

"Old, old school".

[@55metalmonkey]

Since you had it on the mill anyway I would have knocked out the ceramic bushing, drilled to size to tap for a threaded plug. Either way works.

[@animalian01]

I was just about to say a very similar thing but you beat me to it,

[@douglascushenbery1747]

A fun trick to use, works really well if your taking oil gallery plugs out engine blocks. Like most of us the best tricks were handed down to us from mechanic greats before us. When you have that exhaust heated up to cherry red. Set a candle on it and let it melt away. Put something under it to catch the melted wax so you can reuse it. The theory id the two metals expand at different rates. The wax melts between the two metals. I have taken broken bolts out like what you are working on with this method. Drill a small hole in the bolt and use a easy out. When you metal is hot you are unable to add any lubricant or thread loosener because it burns off. If you weld on a nut to a broken bolt, while its hot, add the wax. I kid you not, I have threaded bolts out by just my fingers afterwards. No one ever believes this, and I catch crap all the time, I suggest you try it, and your welcome!

[@douglascushenbery1747]

Forgot one important thing. Make sure after adding the wax, let the metals cool down to room temp before trying to remove it. Keep adding wax till it stops melting.

[@p0gr]

@@douglascushenbery1747 debunked: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mHrYn4Vqi7ForMU

[@milotorres6894]

Ur the first to mention trying the easy out method .

[@matthewjessop6709]

ABom- I agree w/John Smith. I am 67 yrs old but still I’m very impressed w/ your talents & technique here. This is my 1st time ever to watch a video of yours. I WILL SUBSCRIBE. WHY,.. cos one can NEVER STOP LEARNING. Who ever taught you INITIALLY had his sh#* TOGETHER. You are very good AND NOT COCKY about your work. That makes FOR a GREAT mechanic/Jock Shop Maestro. Thx friend!👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@SpatialDragon]

I've brazed and arc welded cast iron. Both work, both have problems. I like that rod with the flux, I used the paste and the bare rod. Your way looks better. Good job.

[@adventurous63]

Nice adjustable angle plate. Wouldn't mind having one of those myself.

[@machobunny1]

I've done each move he makes about 1000 times over the years. No one ever showed me how. It just seemed like there was no other way. And seeing this makes me feel good. I apparently discovered what real machinists have always known.

[@williamgilchrist8577]

If you take you oxy/acetylene torch and hold it on the broken bolt until it gets hot enough to nearly start melting. When it gets to that state, hit the oxy lever and it will blow the broken stud out. Yep, it really does work. Take it from a machinist who had to get exhaust manifold studs out of engines all the time when mechanics would just ring the studs off into the cylinder heads rather than putting some penetrating old on it and try to loosen the studs that way. It saves a lot of time.

[@Masso1973]

William Gilchrist, I would love to see you do that, my first instinct would be that you blow the thread and part of the casting out. I bet you need experience to get handy at it. Cool thing to try sometime, and I’m gonna 👍

[@alm7707]

@@Masso1973 It does work. Acetylene torch has a real hard time cutting cast so the steel melts out first . I've done dozens like that. It helps a lot if you can drill a small hole first, and when you torch the bolt and the metal starts flying, don't get scared of the sparks and stop or you will never get the melting to start again in a deep hole. Holes right through like on that manifold are way easy to torch out. Bolts broke in the side of a 350 chevy head ...not as easy.

[@marksturgeon7717]

Not taking anything away from your knowledge or craftsmanship but I must say it sure makes one world easier when you have the tools needed to do such quality work . Great job and great tools and one more thing , two thumbs up on the cleaning crew , that shop could pass a health inspectors check up .

[@davidgetty107]

Cat 3406 engines had this happen a lot on exhaust manifold studs (3/8 in), I got tired of drilling and taping them out. So started using an arc welder and would weld a washer and nut to the broken stud. then let cool slightly and spin it out with a impact wrench. Sometimes the nut would break off just weld another on and repeat the process. In my opinion the heating and cooling also assisted in freeing up studs that were rusted into the cylinder head.

[@curtishawkins4123]

Lay a thick flat washer of the same size over broken stud. Weld entire center of hole shut. Lay a big nut on top of that, Weld it full good and hot. Heat the ear nearly red hot and gently back out with end wrench. Done dozens that way.

[@WaemYt]

Thats also the way i do it. works every time.

[@judodavid1]

That was only going to come out like he did it or drilled oversize and retreaded.

[@hoobeydoobey1267]

It's a pleasure to watch a master at his craft.

[@Rickster2791]

I admire people with skills like this and am envious.

[@randalldunkley1042]

In my experience the key to do a successful removal is a perfectly centered pilot hole. Excellent job.

[@wallacejeffery5786]

Hard to do on a boat motor lower unit.

[@wildturkey5838]

Back in th '60's my dad frequently had that problem With Minneapolis-Moline irrigation engines. He got so he could center-punch the bolt and hand-drill the busted bolt out. Several times he did it so well that he could grab the sliver that was all that was left of the threads with his pliers and pull them out. He also started making stainless steel manifolds so he didn't have that problem any more!