Old Mechanic Trick To Removing Rusty Exhaust Manifold Bolts!

[@StephenCox.]

For those of you that have been following me for awhile I'm sure you might have seen this video before. I wanted to see if it generated any views again so I hope yall are patient

[@Keifsanderson]

I'm re-watching. All my exhaust nuts/studs just came off my 454 cleanly so I didn't need this, but it's a tool I want to keep in my pocket. P.S. How's Chuck? Looking around nowadays, I think he got an unfair shake.

[@Greg_Gatsby]

I’m re-watching too. 👍

[@jackedwards7420]

I'm re-watching as well, good content is good content, we all need a refresher from time to time! Slow is smooth and smooth is fast!!

[@Justin-bb2hj]

I’ll re-watch lol but fr make that money man you posting a video isn’t costing your subs anything.

[@mikespain8655]

Yep, already seen it.

[@XAllky]

An older mechanic said to touch the hot bolt threads with Gulf Wax, this causes the wax to travel up the thread. Kinda like getting it hot, and spraying penetrating oil deeper in the threads, then work it back and forth! Again man thanks for the video. Here is another comment and like!

[@aanderson8884]

Parafin,candles and crayons on a hot bolt/nut work better than anything for me

[@hallowedbethygame2840]

Stephen - small suggestion, I’m no professional mechanic but I was taught by a machinist not to use a threading tap for thread repair. Any damaged or misaligned threads will be cut away and removed, leaving a weaker thread behind. Thread chasers or thread repair taps work to realign and straighten any damaged threads. Lang makes the sets for the tool trucks but you can buy it directly from them for less. Lang 971 is the parts number.

[@carlspooner3186]

You just cut 2 slots along the length of a bolt for those who want to save money

[@josephlangs8781]

This is a great point. I learned that the hard way.

[@robertjennings397]

Use to know that in oil field, twist pipe fittings on first.

[@bobtiley]

100% Correct

[@bradleyscofarm6151]

You’re right man don’t use a tap!

[@coastalcruiser4317]

Here's an old Aircraft Mechanic's trick shared with me to loosen rusted in bolts. Go to a local pharmacy and you'll probably have to order it, but order Oil of Wintergreen. It comes in 2 sizes and it's a bit pricey. Put that on your rusted in bolts once or twice, let it sit for a while and try loosening the bolts. I bought some to change wheel lugvnuts on a boat trailer near a beach shore buried in a sand dune. I waited about 20 or 30 minutes and the nuts came off like butter. Oil of Wintergreen is acidic and eats away the rust and it smells awesome. I bought a 4oz jar I think it was and I still have some left after about 40yrs.

[@jerseyshoredroneservices225]

Back when I raced slot cars, oil of wintergreen was one of the key ingredients in the tire prep solution that we made 😊

[@Slithey7433]

$6 on Amazon

[@DonutVIP]

This I need, damn rust belt

[@wmjohnson7063]

How about some Mouse Milk

[@coastalcruiser4317]

@@jerseyshoredroneservices225 Cool. Never heard that.

[@scopex2749]

Like the guy below Im also an ex Air Force aircraft engineer. Another trick I use if removing those manifold bolts is to run that motor until its hot THEN spray on your release spray. You will see it SUCK that stuff right into the block through capillary action. The let the motor cool and it may make it a little easier in the shop. Great video Stephen thank you.👍

[@BlitzAlaska]

Finally, a mechanic video that knows how to set up a good closeup with good lighting. Excellent video sir.

[@thekingsilverado3266]

That ain't my videos. I am the worst camera man in all of You Tube history. I deserve an award for that right. I mean I think.

[@carlfulda4252]

I'm a retired hydraulics mechanic. Taking apart seized hydraulic cylinders was my specialty. Never forget that the heat you apply to something will migrate. If you heat too close to the bolt at the beginning, by the time the heat is there it has migrated to the bolt so the bolt has expanded too. Also, the manifold acts like a heat sink so it takes longer to warm up. Therefore start applying the heat to the greater mass of the manifold further away from the bolt, thereby creating a heat-hedge. Then heat the area that is exposed, and easier to reach. Now you have more hope that the bolt did not expand together with the manifold. Enjoy!

[@garybrown1404]

Good point to remember!

[@termonostruman]

I took many but i never hada that "specilaity".

[@bober1019]

I'd let the car run for a bit

[@otpyrcralphpierre1742]

Very well explained, and very well videoed. One tip, instead of the ratchet wrench, use a breaker-wrench. Not so much fiddling around with the direction selector. Quicker and easier. Just wiggle it back and forth.

[@hallowedbethygame2840]

Yup, I was about to comment the same! Wiggle it back and forth, much easier than with a ratchet. Great video Stephen, thanks for sharing!

[@r.c.7466]

Thank you Stephen, you have explained yourself very well. But more importantly, you have given me confidence. 👍

[@KrisKasprzak]

Tighten the bolts back down to keep the part from warping and putting added tension on the others… Genius

[@1notgilty]

I'm glad you said to NOT reuse the old, rusted bolts. A lot of guys try to save a few bucks and reuse the old bolts. They are MUCH more likely to break and then you're in a world of crap. Your tip about re-tightening the bolts as you move down the line is also great advice. It prevents added pressure from transferring to the remaining bolts and making them more likely to snap. You just saved YEARS of hard work and lots of busted knuckles and swearing from mechanics all over the world. Thanks for your useful tips!

[@markchodroff250]

Your 100% right ! I was a mechanic on industrial machines, forklifts , skid loaders and so on , for over 50+ years I seen bolts and studs brake all over ! The best advice is what you show , slow and steady , use the right tool and penetrating fluid , the biggest problem is people use the bolts again! When doing cyl heads with studs we always use new hardware , try to get off a old flathead with studs ? LOL the young people have no patience but slow and steady is always better then half a day drilling out bolts or welding nuts to remove them , a mechanic’s nightmare LOL. Thank you your the best !

[@subbernh5192]

When your old, slow n easy is always the best.

[@stephenduncan4715]

I’ve worked on a lot of tractor exhaust systems. Sometimes they have a big thick washer behind the head of the bolt. If you can take a cutting torch and carefully cut part of the washer out and then punch it out with a chisel it will free up that bolt and take pressure off of it. Then take a jackhammer and hammer on it for a bit to help vibrate the rust out, and it greatly helps relieve the tension on the bolt.

[@pyrogonFL]

>The young people have not patience No, It's the old service writers rushing us and breathing down our backs threatening our jobs twice a week that have trained us to have no patience. Slow and steady = less cars = less money = smaller bonus for management.

[@choppergirl]

Sometimes you can't get new cylinder head bolts. Yeah they're stretched out, but oh well.

[@ronarndt6722]

@@pyrogonFL Yep, I hear you! ...but it's both. The good mechanics follow the experienced mechanics advice but then have to fight the desk-jocky's / "manager's" ignorance; however, most new mechanics never get to be really "good" or even great mechanics because they lack the experience to to know to listen To Experience. Eventually they might figure it out at some point but it's always at everyone else's expense Vs learning the easy way. I've spent too many decades fixing the "experts" fix or repair. Doesn't matter whether it's cars, electrical, plumbing, construction, etc. or my primary field of computers; which is why I always do it myself if I have the time.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

Sometimes I find it helpful to hit the bolt head with a large drift and big hammer as well, to break the galvanic bond.

[@BarretKruse]

And it just makes you feel better!

[@ccjohncc1]

I completely concur!

[@Raggzzaug11]

I was thinking maybe an air chisel with a blunt end for more vibration after heat ,penetrating fluid, and crossing my fingers while using this method. HATE broken bolts!

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

@@Raggzzaug11 Most air chisels really don't have the impact of say, a 2lb mallet but you've got the idea.

[@MrSychnant]

First thing to do every time, needs it or not !

[@petemiller519]

Good advice on not removing the bolts until they're all lose. Had I known that, that would have saved me weeks of screwing around and busting my knuckles on a Ford V-10. Cheers from Canada.

[@Changtent]

Forty years, now retired mechanic, and that's the best treatment I've seen for removing exhaust manifolds. Your explanation of how the manifold warps as you remove bolts and jams the remaining bolts, is spot-on. Taking your time with this stubborn job as you have done here is the way to go. I tip my hat to you.

[@TheChristopherStalken]

I thought so as well. Quick question. Would it be better to start with the center bolts and alternate towards each side to the outer blots as well?

[@hudsonhollow]

I've been a professional mechanic since 1969 and I know very well that I can still learn. Every mechanic knows something he learned the hard way. Your advice is spot on. I did learn something. I have never tried Knocker Loose so I just ordered a can from Amazon to see how it stacks up. I worked in Honda dealerships for most of my life and when we went to Honda updates and technical schools, I usually learned more from the other techs than I did from the Honda instructor. We are out there fighting with this stuff and they are not. Tearing a Jeep engine down, I learned a trick on KZbin from a guy in Australia that saved me a ton of time and Jeep would have never recommended the procedure.

[@robobloxgamer524]

Agree. I've heard that referred to as "Tribal Knowledge".

[@SaltMinerOU812]

I'm a diehard PB Blaster guy

[@1pcfred]

You break some bolts and have to extract them and you learn to be more careful then. Either that or you're just a glutton for punishment.

[@KendrasEdge757]

Annnnnd here’s a man that’s snapped a lot of exhaust manifold bolts/studs and isn’t gonna do it again!! Excellent job my friend!! God bless~

[@GitFiddler]

Kroil penetration oil is what we used on aircraft. We had a 2" T-lock with bolt threads seized up, and a couple of my hard-headed co-workers tried to loosen it using a sledge hammer hitting the 'T' trying to turn it. They took turns on it. Wouldn't budge. So near the end of our shift, I took a spray can of Kroil and sprayed the threads, and told them to just leave it alone and let it set overnight. When we came in the next day for our work shift, the T-lock was removed. So I asked the lead mechanic on the other shift if he had any problem with getting it out. He said no problem at all, that it turned out by hand. Then I told him the trouble we had with it, and he wouldn't believe us.

[@chrisbowers310]

I've had good luck with kroil as well

[@scottp5331]

The usual reply for something that is hard to work on or b**** to get at is "F#$k it. Leave it for the second shift."

[@michaelgfoth6214]

@@chrisbowers310me too

[@jeffgoalen5741]

Kroil is the best by far!!! Good call on the kroil buddy it’s a game changer!!

[@JohnMattauch-sr1hn]

I’ve been a mechanic for years and years. Never never seen a better how to video. Perfect manifold to use for demonstration purposes. Wish I had saw this video 30 years ago. Thank you, Jm.

[@Turco949]

But, there was no YT 30 years ago! Heck, 30 years ago, the Internet we know today didn't even exist. Also, 30 years ago, this guy was probably a young teen. =)

[@garycarbonneau499]

If you had seen the video you wouldn't have had to saw it! Lol

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I take a hammer and tap on the head of the bolt first. The vibration loosens the rust. Then I spray lubricant, but I never get any on bolt head. Spraying bolt head makes it easy for socket to round off head, therefore I refrain from spraying it. Then I do exactly what you did. Great video

[@LifeInJambles]

Lubrication on the head might make some small difference once the bolt is already rounding off, but if the flats are mostly intact, then the whole point of wrench flats is that you're not working with friction in the first place. If you're trying to use friction to turn a stuck bolt, you've already lost this battle. It's really not likely to make any meaningful difference, and getting penetrating oil under the flange is pretty likely to make a significant difference, if you can get it to actually go in there. I do think some people overestimate a penetrating oil's ability to penetrate clamped-together surfaces, but either way penetrating oil being present at the flange is more likely to make a difference than penetrating oil being absent at the wrench flats.

[@awackocrank]

You can remove lubricant from a bolt head. Brake cleaner, clean rag, repeat.

[@jjr8996]

I don't know why but it is so satisfying to watch the bolts break loose.

[@ve2um]

I realy like it when Stephen drownd teh bolt just before tightening it back !!!

[@bobbalcom2658]

As a 30 year exhaust veteran now retired from Midas Meineke Walt's and a few other shops over the years, you covered it all. 100% accurate by my standards. It's a nasty job and broken bolts are almost always a part of it. Your nut welded to the broken stud happens to be the same method I used for years. Build up a weld on the stud, weld a nut to it and back it out. I give this the 'Good Video' award.

[@StephenCox.]

Thank you!

[@Geoduck.]

This is gold. I'm an old retired machinist and car guy. Stephen is spot on dealing with rusted exhaust manifold bolts or other rusted bolts.

[@mustangmadness2619]

Thanks for showing that , I have been using that trick since the 70 's and telling people about it. most want to keep going in one direction ... wrong!

[@BlackheartCharlie]

Thank you for teaching me something new! I've been wrenching on motors for almost half a century and never was taught to put the bolt back in and keep the manifold flat. Now that you explain it, it seems so obvious! Liked and subscribed! ("Long live the algorithm.")

[@snickpickle]

My somewhat alternate method (and I'm not a real mechanic, but will work on some smaller stuff not necessarily related to motors) is to, once I can get the bolts to loosen, tighten them up, but not all that hard, and start at opposite ends (or from the center), trying to keep a somewhat even torque throughout, to ensure that the part loosens evenly. But I most certainly (for heavier gear like this) prefer your method. Much more straightforward, and takes away a lot of guesswork re: torque.

[@noelcoyle1594]

I worked as a panel beater for 26 years and I often was ask by the the foreman of the macanic shop to help with removal of a cylinder head stud which had a rusted head I would pick up my air chisel and would have that stud out in two shakes of a lamb tail. coylenoel212@@snickpickle

[@1pcfred]

If you think about it each fastener is taking some of the tension so as you take fasteners out what's left all have more tension on them then. The ones out aren't taking the tension they had on them anymore. So it's left up to the ones that are left. So they keep getting tighter. That's why the last one seems like it's always the hardest. It is.

[@BlackheartCharlie]

@@1pcfred Yep. Seems so obvious now, but in 50 years of wrenching on things I never realized this! Oh, the things we learn from the intrawebs! BHC

[@1pcfred]

@@BlackheartCharlie yeah it is crazy to think they ain't adding fasteners just for looks. Each one is actually doing something. That something could work for or against you.

[@jurgencarpediem276]

Hi Stephan, thanks for joining your experiance, great explaination, i have to to this Job in my 1938 pontiac sport Coupé greetings from Germany

[@richiethesee]

My dad was a Tool & Die Maker/Master Machinist ... and I helped and watched him fix anything and everything to do with nuts and bolts and everything... This was like watching and learning from him. He was always careful to loosen and tighten in a pattern- as soon as you tightened that first bolt back I was yep- he doesn't;t want the whole thing to torque and put uneven pressure on the rest he won't be able to defeat." Dad may have not attacked them in straight succession- but would skip around- putting back together very evenly. but your tightening back is exactly the same effect. Kudos - I have subscribed.

[@greghuff3316]

Glad to see you used the exact methodology I was taught by top notch mechanics. I was a plant engineer but I got my hands dirty daily. One key point that people need to really emphasize is to torque every bolt back until all bolts are broken loose. This applies to any two parts that have machined mating surfaces whether it’s a car or process machinery etc. Of course reassembly should be done in increments to prevent uneven bolt loading and potential surface warping.

[@SamslamminCars]

Finessing the bolts, an extremely underated & necessary process that involves patience. I grew up in the Midwest & do not miss doing this to literally every vehicle, now living in the south.

[@AaronHendu]

Come to a Canada where rust means a 13mm is rarely a 13mm til you flake all the rust off of it...and now it is a 12mm that you need to hammer the socket onto. Luckily, I was a mechanic for only a few years and only had to call the machine shop once for a broken bolt. Ford Focus EGR bolt. Machine shop removed it no prob, but it cost us almoat $400 for an on site call. Ford manifold studs often came in pre broken...that was a pretty common job replacing them. Heat is the kwy to removing bolts, but you cannot really heat up the head glowing orange...ya know? Lol. And you dont heat the bolt, you heat the nut or metal surrounding the threaded hole. Not easy with a manifold in the way anyway. It is why i can remove exhaust nuts that are basically just a ball of rust...cause exhaust parts can get hot.

[@SaltMinerOU812]

Finessing them damn wheel speed sensors out of the calipers same thing. Not a bolt i know but same, out a schoch, in again, lube. Haven't broken one yet

[@1pcfred]

I always say, it didn't get stuck overnight so it's not going to free up instantly either.

[@bkell1011]

You made so many good, common sense points in this video, (ex: the remaining bolts getting wedged by the weight of the dangling manifold); well done!

[@1pcfred]

It's not even the weight. It's the overall tension. Each bolt is taking some of the tension. You take all of them out and the last one has all the tension. That's a problem. It's going to be stupid tight compared to what it should have been.

[@jerryclark5725]

When I removed exhaust manifolds on now vintage automobiles, I would always begin with a warmed engine. This provided much success.

[@trickyricky12147]

Good idea! Except try doing that in today's engine bays, you'll have a fun time burning yourself alive. Lol. The many conviences we have sacrificed for a vehicle's safety ratings. It matters, but still mildly infuriating.

[@jakeowens1770]

This doesnt work for 02 sensors

[@lsworonoff]

That was outstanding Stephen. It is inspiring to see a young, intelligent guy like you give an eloquent, detailed instructional video on how to properly remove Exhaust Manifold Bolts. I’m a retired Airline Pilot and Antique German Car Restorer and Collector and have been using your very technique for over 48 years. You are a credit to our Craft and your Parents. I have the utmost respect for you Son.

[@SohailMahboob-US]

Thanks for teaching us the technique but more importantly your purpose to help others is highly appreciated. Blessings from Maryland

[@al_boehm]

Love PB Blaster and if I know it's a weekend project, I'll go ahead and spray whatever bolts on Friday and let it sit overnight and start wrenching on Saturday !

[@jeffgoalen5741]

Seriously please try kroil you will not be disappointed

[@ginog5037]

Finally, someone on the ball doing it the way I was taught. Just start in the middle and hit the bolts with a socket/hammer.

[@richardharries5825]

That is one of the best videos. Where someone has explained how to remove seized and rusty exhaust manifold bolts. Believe me I’ve snapped quite a few in my time. Cursed them as I’ve snapped them. But that was a well explained. educational video.

[@johnhubbard6262]

Watched it before - Watched it again, love it. Old Plumbers trick though, a torch heats best just past the feather, when you put the flame directly on the piece you loose 30 percent or more of potential applied heat.

[@1dash133]

Yeah, I noticed that, too. Thought maybe he did it intentionally to reduce or to spread out the flame's heat.

[@mattjacomos2795]

I wanted to say this too...@@1dash133

[@fertysurfer]

Me too. Not many people seem to realise this fact. I was going to mention it. Comes from years of experience in using a gas axe and CNC gas cutter.

[@Mr2greys]

Learned that in 10th grade chemistry

[@MFE92]

Old mechanic guidance says tight fasteners are easier to break loose by *tightening* them first. You'll be amazed.

[@jamescouture183]

So contrary to logic, yet completely true! Can confirm.

[@JimGarver-tx8rj]

The same method works on pipe fittings that won't move. Tighten then loosen. Heat and bees wax also helps.

[@alan6832]

Impact shock tends to crush and loosen rust inside threads and sleeves. Impact wrenches on lower settings or pressures do this some, but just hammering on stuff short of damaging it does a great deal. avoid mushrooming out the bolt head, but if you do you can either grind or file it back down until the socket fits or use the next bigger 6 point socket, usually of the opposite system. Using a few hammer blows to crack the rust also helps it allow the oil to penetrate better.

[@ch0wned]

**SNAP** Ah, fuck.

[@jeffreykropp7664]

During my clumsy mechanical experiences with old vehicles, seems there is always one bolt of a series that resists all techniques for removal. Many years ago I was unscrewing huge lug nuts on old truck rear wheel with left hand threads. One nut resisted until I broke the wrench (equipped with long pipe extension). Old neighbor guy had been watching and suggested trying turning nut the other way. Yes, one of the left hand wheel lugs had been replaced with right hand. After cleaning up the nut, small “R” was visible.

[@MK-dy8wm]

Yes, I remember this video, and yes, it helped me in my mechanical doings in the shop. Good advice never gets old. Thanks. 👍

[@StephenCox.]

Thank you!

[@harveyedwards3725]

We have seen these videos before, BUT it never hurts to watch someone sharing their known knowledge and experience.Thanks for sharing👍

[@nickaronschannel430]

Awesome Job Teaching/Coaching. thanks for passing on the wisdom. Youre The Best Stephen. God Bless

[@douglastaylor6480]

Steven , thanks so much for this video. I have a 8.3 cummins that needs exhaust manifold gaskets and I've been dreading it for a while . I'm feeling better about it now .Great Job , keep it up !

[@NewMoahk]

I really appreciate and respect what you do. I saw you post this tip years ago and it has kept me out of trouble! One of the best things anyone has ever taught me.

[@papafrank7094]

Fantastic explanation on how to do this correctly. I hope everyone who sees this takes advantage of this video. Trust this man's explanation. It's useful in many situations.

[@crisc9280]

I'm not a mechanic but you definitely taught viewers. I never knew about loosening and tightening and eventually walking the bolt out. Excellent video. Very clear instructions

[@mits_6131]

I know that I'll never find myself taking out rusted exhaust manifold bolts. But, I find myself watching with intense interest on how to work with similar situations. Thank you.

[@1dash133]

Thought my days of working under the hood were long gone, too ... then I bought a kei truck!

[@1pcfred]

Seized hardware is all a lot alike. But exhaust hardware can be especially bad.

[@williamallen7836]

With the way our economy is going, you just may need to. During bad times the difference between those who thrive & those who slowly sink is, the willingness to repair. Instead of replacing, or paying someone else to repair for you.

[@1pcfred]

@@williamallen7836 I fix stuff until there's nothing left to it if I can.

[@dalehood1846]

Very well said. Especially the parts about loosen and tighten AND not loosening all the bolts. It puts pressure on the remaining bolts. I worked in several automotive machine shops, and this is valuable information. Going back and forth, tightening and loosening helps to "clean the threads" of rust. Also, we heated the area around the bolt and applied a piece of wax so that it would smoke. I believe the liquid wax penetrated the threads. PATIENCE IS THE KEY. Do not be in a hurry. Those that did hurry, then brought their problems to us. Thank you so very much for this video.

[@PaulThomas-qo9vy]

Great advice. My advice to add: vibrate the bolt or nut with an air regulated air hammer After spray & soaking with penetrant. Use low pressure/light impacts to prevent any bolt or nut damage. The vibrations help the penetrant soak in better/ deeper and break up solid rust chunks! I experimented with several anti-seize lubes over several weeks on a lab test engine DPF that was removed & weighed several times per shift, while very hot, to measure soot accumulation. Anyways the bolts would seize & I switched to stainless 5/16" bolts & those long coupling nuts which spread the clamp loads over more threads. That helped but would still seize quicker than I wanted, even with Permatex silver anti-seize. I finally had long term success with Bostic brand NEVER-SEEZ High Temp Stainless formula. It's super-fine powder stays in place & although the carrier grease lubricant burns away, especially on turbo manifold/turbine inlet studs, the dry powder acts as a sponge, wicking the spray penetrants deeper into the threads & prevents solid chunk rust formation. Once I incorporated Bostic Never-Seez, spray penetrant, light vibration from air hammer, & Then slight loosen, then slight retighten like you demonstrated Stephen, I almost never broke another turbo manifold bolt or turbine inducer stud on the LHU 2.0L GM EcoTec test engines again. I probably removed/reinstalled or replaced a turbo almost 100 times for the several year duration of various tests & taught several junior technicians my tricks so they wouldn't waste time breaking bolts. I despised seeing an untrained & arrogant tech from another building come over to "help out" when we were understaffed. They'd wave away our advice with "it's not my first rodeo" smart-elick comment! Soon I would get a $300 cast stainless turbo manifold with 3 or 4 broken studs to fix in my "spare" time & a request to take one of my new spare manifolds (they eventually warped from extreme testing at nearly 950°C) 👹🤬! Hope this helps someone. Blessing Stephen! Paul from S. Central Tx..

[@amerlin388]

I could also see using a palm nailer if the space is tight,

[@Flash1857]

Would include them fixing the bolts they broke in the next couple of shifts

[@danfitzsimon9802]

Dang! Pretty expensive stuff. Bostik even sells a "nuclear" version. Guess I'll try to find it local as shipping is 80% of the item.

[@otpyrcralphpierre1742]

@@danfitzsimon9802 Could STILL be worth it!

[@m16ty]

Yes, any kind of vibration helps loosen things up. You can even use a impact wrench very cautiously, but you really have to know what you are doing and be very familiar with the particular impact wrench you are using. You loose a lot of the "feel" with a impact wrench and there is a fine line between using enough power to do some good and just snapping the bolt off faster.

[@artszabo1015]

I am an old mechanic and you just gave some real good advice in this video. One more thing you can do is shock the bolt. Drill a small indent in the bolt head. Ha! Back in the 60s & 70s there was plenty of room to do this. Put a center punch or better yet a pointed chisel in your air hammer and slam some heavy vibes into that sleepy bolt. This crushes the rust flakes to dust. Then do all of the steps you brought up. Once you loosen up two or three the rest will see the futility of resistance and give up real easy. Keep up the good work my young friend. Art from Ohio

[@DevilbyMoonlight]

A wax candle can be a life saver sometimes especially if the bolt is still in a vehicle thats awkward to reach -its a very very old school trick from the last century - heat the bolt push the candle on it, go have a coffee while you wait for it to cool down and the candle wax settle in the threads, the magic happens when you heat it up again for the second time....

[@1pcfred]

Wax has been disproven time and time again. But believe whatever you want to believe.

[@garycarbonneau499]

You can do the same with penatrating oil...just like sweating solder.

[@philiplombardi5057]

Great video Steve! I've been a gearhead since 1970 and I am still learning and renovating fast cars. Best hobby in the world!

[@tonysmith5465]

Very very outstanding video young man. Great job. Acetone ATF fluid. 50/50. Good stuff. Keep up the good work. Thanks. SC Navy vet. 1965. 🇺🇸😊

[@BillPauley-gq5dm]

Thanks for your common sense video on removing frozen tight exhaust manifold bolts . Im 68 yrs old and wrenched since I was 15 Total of roughly 50 yrs on the job Dealerships and private garages I was schooled and learned from the old dogs then These tricks were taught to me by some older dogs . I also used anti seize on the bolts and I also cleaned the bolts on a bench grinder wire brush wheel . The job took more time but In the long run a good job . Thanks again take care Bill

[@xani666]

That advice is worth its weight in gold, thanks!

[@mikemorgan5015]

Yup. While there might be different ways, I don't know of any BETTER ways. I would only add ditching the big ratchet for a breaker bar, using an impact on LOW to impart some shocks to the rust, and/or and air hammer or ball peen with a flat punch to do the same to each bolt. Patience is the hardest part. Keep up the great work.

[@daleslover2771]

On those monster muthers ive been using a trick that i pick up from my grand pa, that is using a tourch to heat around the surface area, alway circling the area away from the bolt, then takeing a ice cube then applied it on the bolt head keeping it there for 30 sec, then break the tension on the bolt with a 6 pt socket... this works great on the principal of expansion and contraction... ferm believer in Acetone, Synthetic ATF. haven't broken one bolt on my 60 F100 so far... excellent video by the way.

[@jurikristjouw]

An ice cube huh, that is brilliant! Would probably also work on bearings? Also the acetone-atf mix works miracles! Thanx for sharing

[@rogerbredow7182]

ice cube trick does work. Seems like I remember something called freeze spray.

[@rogerbredow7182]

oh ya I remember. A butane refill canister. Will freeze a bolt quick.

[@trappy77]

I've used oven cleaner, and on other occasions limeaway. Not mixed together. Anything to eat that rust. Striking with a hammer directly on top of the bolt often times helps make a little thread clearance. I've been an industrial mechanic for 25 years. Essentially heat, chemicals or strong vibration will make the clearance you need. Most bolt threads new have at least 20 percent tolerance before they get filled with debris. Everything said here is spot on correct. Very good video.

[@i24uforever]

As a shade tree mechanic I bought the workshop manual for my 1970 Honda 750 K2. I tore it all apart put new clutch plates, pistons, valves, shaved the head the whole nine yards. While putting it back together I failed to stuff a rag underneath the cam chain master link and yes I dropped it. I naught a new gasket set and went through it all again with the rag. Several years after that I thought I could have tried to fish the retainer clip out with a magnet. My bad. But at least now I’m not afraid to work on any engine. God Bless.

[@rhianGT]

Definitely one of the better tutorials for rusted bolts I have ever seen.

[@charlessmarr7107]

Supporting the tool is essential. I have seen people break a lot of bolts, especially when using extensions, because they bend the bolt or break off the head by just using the end of the ratchet handle.

[@mattgraham4340]

If you have room, using a T handle will minimize unintentional force vectors

[@snickpickle]

This *totally* makes sense! And don't ask me how I know about this... 😀

[@46bovine]

Holy crap! There was a lot of rust pouring out of that first close up. Thanks for the enlightenment!

[@alabamamotionpictureproduc6626]

Steve, I watched these same tricks on the other video you had I think it was on your Cummins exhaust manifold. I used this same technique on my 2008 Honda Civic R18A1 serpentine belt hydraulic tensioner bolt. They are notorious for snapping and requiring drilling out, not to mention it's an 8mm Allen head. But yeah, I just sprayed her down with pb blaster and did the loosen tighten x12 method and each time I'd tighten and loosen I'd get more of a turn out of it. It was a success and I didn't have to defer to any professional thank God.

[@Gunny426HemiPlymouth]

I know my dad taught me this, but man did I still learn some tricks! That second one was real impressive. Great stuff.

[@Ratkill9000]

I have no idea how many I've had to do, maybe a dozen or so exhaust manifolds on 5.7L Hemi 1500s. Bolts break, manifold warps, gets new everything. Now instead of snapping bolts, they have manifolds that crack nearly all the way through. On the up side with aluminum heads and steel bolts, they are kind of easy to remove vs steel in cast iron. But this is a very helpful tip!

[@gordbaker896]

Been there. Had to heat and drill. Then square type ezee out.

[@glorgau]

Outstanding. This is the kind of stuff that it takes a mess of broken bolts to figure out on your own.

[@davemachoukas6175]

I always "shock" the bolt. I believe it helps 😊

[@TheFredmac]

Bolts have to pay income tax?

[@usx06240]

It absolutely does.

[@richard5652]

I really enjoyed this video! One tip I picked up from Torque Test Channel is to never put anti seize on any bolt that needs to be torqued. It can actually double the actual torque!

[@kennethfahndrick9523]

Great tips - I’ve used them all in the past. The first time, after bloodying several knuckles, I was so angry, I used the torch - heated around all bolts, almost red hot, then, with tongs, touched an ice cube to end of each bolt …one by one, they literally rolled out with a simple butter knife! I didn’t even use a socket! LOL Honest to God!

[@Hereford1642]

You can buy freezer spray to chill the bolt. Electronics bods use it for fault finding when components are overheating.

[@experimentmagnet]

Often times when you strip the head (and you will strip the head eventuality) or you have the shank to get ahold of. An appropriately size pipe wrench is a good next step. Crude but often will bite enough to pull the bolt if you can get the angle. Works good for stripped oil pan drain heads.

[@80SWoods]

Great video! The only thing I do slightly different is that I like to use a breaker bar rather than a ratchet so I can work the bolt back and forth quickly without having to flip the direction switch on a ratchet. I learned something new, I hadn’t thought about tightening the bolts back in.

[@StephenCox.]

Great tip!

[@otpyrcralphpierre1742]

Yep, that's what I do.

[@mikelastpass689]

This is without a doubt the finest vid on the subject I've seen. Camera shots are crystal clear & steady & your explanation of what/why is perfect. I like the mention of acetone -atf as a penetrant. Watched a vid yrs ago about that combo. Keep up the Great work. Your another Scotty Kilmer in the making 👍🏼👍🏼

[@mickhardin15]

Tightening the stuck bolt at the start sometimes breaks them loose, this is from experience.

[@DH-vz2lc]

I like your video. Have had to remove exhaust bolts many times and did not know about tightening them back up until all are loose. Very helpful. Thank you.

[@fleabitis]

Excellent little tutorial! Thanks Stephen

[@clintprice2123]

I actually did remember to tighten and loosen in a pattern. It shows we can retain things we learn even though this was from years back.

[@maxwellhouse1902]

Thanks for the great video on dealing with ornery nuts and bolts. I didn't scroll all the way down the comments, but I saw no mention of using a USA made Bolt Buster Induction heater for heating the periphery of the stuck fastener. I bought it to use on an upcoming exhaust manifold project on my 2000 4.7 V8 Tundra. Watched the A1 Auto parts video with "Sue" doing this job and realized how buried some of those items are. Luckily she had a hydraulic lift so she could keep standing through the whole procedure where most of us would be on our back on the ground through some of the procedure. Although I understand why you did this video on "the bench" for ease of video, those of us that have no intention of removing the engine from the vehicle are often times left with a different tool combination needed for each fastener and its relative position to the fender well or other obstruction. I've yet to do this with my Tundra, but I will be using your excellent points when I do do it. I managed to snap off a 6mm 1.0 valve cover flange bolt on the 4.7 and it just happened to be the one tucked under the firewall. Drilling that oout and restoring the threads took two days.....smh

[@DrHarryT]

After putting the penetrating oil on the bolts, tap the system with a brass hammer. The vibration causes the oil to penetrate. Yes use a 6 point socket on crusty bolts, metal has flaked away over time from the heat. If it's a 9/16 head, you can use a 14mm socket for a better grip.

[@ivanvarela3215]

Ah perfect, alrighty!

[@uncleeddie-xo9ln]

Thanks! Thanks for a great video 👍

[@StephenCox.]

Thank you so much for the tip!

[@ThisIsToolman]

This is a great video! You totally understand the minutiae of rust’s effect on fasteners. Here’s a related story showing how rust grows. I once had a problem with getting brakes to work on one front wheel. The brake hose was made with a steel support bracket. The problem was that bracket had rusted to the point on the inside that it pinched-off the hose completely. Turned out they sold a lot of those hoses for that exact reason.

[@alainmarcoux4156]

Right, happened to me on a Dodge minivan and it's not long before you can't brake properly, went to the garage and they already knew the problem 🇨🇦😕

[@MarkPatrie]

Dodge Ram- the brake fluid won't flow back to the reservoir so the caliper stays compressed & the brake overheats. all because of a rusty clip.

[@orionoutdoorsandworkshop5617]

this is always worked for me. take the vehicle for a drive, getting it warmed up. shut it down and not wasting too much time very carefully loosen the bolts. i have done this more than once. (of course, this is not so easy to do with the motor on a motor stand.)

[@donhozy]

Great tutorial! Slow and easy wins the race!

[@1957cajun]

Have you noticed if you use anti-seize on these bolts if the bolts do actually come out easier years later? Not sure if it doesn’t all get burned off from the heat and still end up rusting later?

[@cag03hd]

Great info. Just got a 65 f100 and need to replace exhaust manifold gasket. I'm not new to motor mechanics but definitely not a pro so being worried about the up coming job this helped alot.

[@jamesdeeton4299]

My Brother Harold taught me how to loosen\tighten bolts, screws and nuts to keep from breaking them back in the 70's. He was a professional mechanic his whole life. My Step Father Herman who was a Tank Mechanic for the Marine Corps. in WWII taught me how to heat up the metal near the other side of the fastener to help not break the bolt or screw. He was sent to Japan on a Liberty Ship. He spent 1 day there and then Japan surrendered. He left on a ship the next day back to the United States. He got a job from Brown and Root and worked for them 33 years before he retired. They gave him a Radio\Alarm Clock and a Gold Plated writing Pen for a retirement gift.

[@paulwalsh2458]

SUBSCRIBED! What a nice tutorial. 'Mechanics feel' is so underrated these days. We'd all be living in mud huts smashing in each others brains with big rocks w/o it.

[@KBLIZZ333]

Few taps with a small hammer or air hammer seems to help me also. I have this problem a lot less since getting myself a Mini Ductor Venom HP

[@CaptainRonAhoy]

Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to this......an old back yard DIY guy....

[@michiganporter]

Man looking way younger with the shave bro! Nice tip too btw!

[@TedLundy]

Brill vid Steve. Thanks. One thought.... when applying heat to a bolt, make sure to have the others tightened down and allow to cool before applying any stress to the manifold, to prevent the manifold from warping. Essentially, keep it jigged on cool down.

[@tedwilliams8766]

this was a good vid back then as it is now. been using this method for decades. yes, it takes time but its less time than drilling. it works great when the bolts still look like bolts and are the original size. when they look like nubs and sae starts fitting better than metric, thats a whole other process not for the faint of heart. never tried crc knocker loose but ive had great success with crc freeze off and bg penetrating oil on exhaust bolts and other fasteners. i thought the freeze off fastenwas gimmicky until i tried it and it worked for me. the biggest secret of rusted, stuck fasteners is temperature difference between the fastener and what its in. thats for those who dont wrench on a regular basis. whether its freezing or heating, along with your favorite spray lube and some patience, you can get almost any rusted fastener out. steve, i think puttin gout some of your older vids of tips and tricks would help the new viewers who werent around for your first channel. never too late to learn a new trick. thanks.

[@Beegz839]

An honest mechanic. Good stuff Sir ! 👍. Ninja style

[@peterbenson3776]

Certainly makes perfect sense. Patience! Ive had a few bolts stuck that I heated with a little torch and rather than twist it off i waited for the heated bolt to shink and crackle then it comes right out

[@Editronone]

Outstanding! That was a complete set of tips Penetrating oil...go back and forth... heat for the more stubbron ones..clean out the threads..use new bolts with antiseize. Anyone following this will not break bolts and will prevent bolts breaking 20 years in the future. Awesome!

[@ceejay6882]

Quenching with cold water after heating will make the bolt loose if it's steel or cast iron. There's arguments that it will make the metal brittle, but I use this method for non critical parts like heat shrouds.

[@davidyendoll5903]

Rather than using water to quench use more penetrating oil which should do a better job in actually getting further into the hot crud . Beware of catching stuff on fire though ! Oh , and quickly tap the bolt a bit before quenching . If you can see crud on threads , oil that area and try to remove the dirt before turning the bolt to save dragging extra dirt into the female threads and lubricate again before turning anything .

[@JamesEiholzer]

Thanks for this. I was having trouble with an old Minneapolis Moline g-1050, bolts has not been off for yrs. I used your trick here and this worked like a charm. It took quite awhile to free the bolts, but not a one broke off. thanks for the awsome tip

[@39knights]

I have seen in other such videos; 1) Sacrifice a chisel bit for your air-chisel and weld a 1/2" drive extension to it so you can attach it to your sockets. Then use it to vibrate/shock the bolt before trying to remove it. It helps to break that rust-hold and does far less damage than hammering on the bolt-head directly and mushrooming it. 2) I too am a fan of never-seize but was told using it on the threads could change the torque value where a torque is specified as these values are usually for a dry-torque (such as cylinder head bolts). And of course not where lock-tite is specified as well. Great video. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.

[@ginog5037]

Most of the time, hitting the socket works fine. Your way is step 2, then it's heat...

[@smushegg]

Excellent description how to get those bolts out without breaking. The delicate dance between torque and movement. Enjoyed watching.

[@garymcmullin2292]

I have found that a raps with a hammer to the bolt head or with a drift punch to the head of screws does wonders. The back and forth motion is effective, with the impact force by hammer or air gun it just seems to break the corrosion bonds much better, I seldom resort to heat.