BSA Bantam D3 Engine Rebuild Part 4 - Crank, Fitting a New Conrod

Rebuilding the crank, splitting the crank and fitting a new conrod.
Had to make a special jig to do this.

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Great job Ian, I thought that you were on to a winner when it went together tight. I found that any reduction in the pin friction made the cranks almost impossible to true. Loctiting the bearing might prevent you from setting the endfloat, as it needs to slide in the bearings. The crank wheels are meant to be interchangeable as long as both are wide or narrow big end, but I think it's 'BSA interchangeability', i.e they are all bloody different! Best wishes, Dean.

[@InTheShedUK]

Yes, good point about the loctite!

[@a65builder67]

hi Ian i had same problem when i trued my c15 crank up, the engine had been split from new the bike had been sat in shed years and years the spokes had rusted through the tank had no bottom in it it was a mess, and no paper work with it has well its now my trials bike, when i looked at the crank wheels they to were different sizes, so i think bsa motto was if its round use it. kind regards, Adrian. ps i've never had any problems with or without the stuffer plates but each to own.

[@InTheShedUK]

I have also had a couple of C15's, one was a dizzy model, lovely little engine.