Budget 12-inch Subwoofer Shootout. Infinity, Klipsch, Dayton, Jamo, OSD & Bic!

[@jeremyhemp8241]

Purchased 2 12 Klipsch back in January for half off. They work really well in my basement theater room. Crossover and equalization is key!

[@jebo4jc]

This is really useful info for the community. Maybe not as sexy as the $2500+ models but great bang for the buck. Thanks Erin!

[@jeffbryner5355]

Yeah at that price points you are just paying for the name and the art piece. The cost of materials doest exceed even close to that lol it's like buying a Harley. We all know yamaha is better and cheaper but everyone wants to be cool so they purchase the name for 3 times the price 😂

[@jeffsloane8628]

YES, you said it. Find the sub with the flattest frequency response and no resonances, wait for it to go on sale and buy two. The benefits of dual subs not only make up for lack of output or distortion in a singe sub, but reduce stress on the amps (headroom) for the same output and reduce, if not eliminate, the dead zone where bass notes are canceled out in room.

[@fastcar42069]

Explain the dead zone part? I have it in my living room

[@jeffsloane8628]

@@fastcar42069 Because bass frequencies are so long, most rooms there will be one, or more, locations where the bass cancels out. This will likely be different for 30 Hz than for say 60 Hz. Positioning multiple subwoofers correctly can have a significant impact on reducing this scenario. If the subs are positioned in different locations where the nodes are not destructive and playing at essentially 1/2 of the volume of a single sub, then experience is more even bass coverage throughout the room with less strain on each sub.

[@fastcar42069]

@@jeffsloane8628 so rather than try to save up for a pretty nice single sub, maybe swing a bit lower in cost as long as it has good frequency response, and buy 2. Saving for this stuff takes time so I have to rock the solo sub for quite awhile, but if I have a 5.2 receiver then I'm future proofed. And by half the volume, I'd assume the YPAO setting on my yamaha receiver would automatically dial the trims back on the subs on its own when I calibrate because the mic can hear it better? or is this something i have to play with the gain knobs on each one until it sounds right

[@ftlbaby]

Stereo subs are the way to go, no doubt.

[@jamesjenkins1909]

I'm using treatment to get rid of standing base waves that my upper lower frequency is destroying before it gets to my sweet spot..

[@keepingupwiththejones2933]

Words without action are pretty useless. Measurements are the actions of subwoofers and speakers. Thank you for the work you do for the community. You are an under appreciated asset to the AV community ❤

[@larryh.4629]

I'm all good with my jamo c912 I got for $164.64 tax included. Oct/22 so based on your review and the deep discount I thank you for your hard work and confirmation, waiting for a deal isn't fun but the rewards are.

[@Feliciano12v]

I recently purchased a second Elac 10” Per your previous subwoofer showdown. As it’s for my two channel stereo, I’m enjoying it. They don’t have low-end extension, but the type of music I typically listen to doesn’t require it. Thanks for another great showdown.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad to hear the suggestion worked for you. 👍

[@Gamez4eveR]

"the type of music I typically listen to doesn’t require it" that's what you think! even some lute recordings have that serious church air pressure you only get with serious subbass extension! regardless I've no doubt you've an enjoyable setup!

[@Youthman]

#dontbethatguy :) Great shootout Erin. No one buy you knows just how much time you spent to make a video like this possible. Great job making the data easy to understand.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks, (youth)man. I appreciate that.

[@LuisRendonAudio]

It's great, very informative.

[@arogantech]

The amp on my Def Tech ProSub 1000 finally gave out after 15 years. I replaced it with a Jamo C912 and have been happy with it for the money. Thanks for the great review.

[@mndlessdrwer]

The Infinity PS-8 from back in the day is shockingly competent and musical, so I'm glad to see that their cheap 12" model seems to live up to the expectations I held for it.

[@valorantorion1588]

Now they are 500 dollars and discontinued lmao

[@mndlessdrwer]

@@valorantorion1588 Yeah, it's a bit sad that Infinity decided to abandon the home audio market. I guess it just wasn't profitable enough for them anymore and the Harman group needed to consolidate some brands since they already have JBL in that space. It's still probably worthwhile to try to find them on the secondary market if you can get them for a decent price. The PS-12 is still relatively common on the secondary market, though you'll probably have to narrow it down to local pickups in your area due to their weight making shipping uneconomical. Otherwise, just pick up the S810 from Jamo off Amazon. It performs reasonably well for its price and size, so you can put two of them in a room for less localization without utterly destroying your budget.

[@joshuaoflaherty371]

They also made a dual 6.5 ported sub called the "eps 100" looks like a center channel speaker almost.... Got it free off offer up just planning to snag the amp off it up temp fix my psw505. It sounds soooo good i couldn't part it out. Still use it in my bedroom to this day and i swear it hits harder, faster, and goes near 20hz absolutely flat and loud.... I still can't believe it sometimes. Ive had my share of trash to high dollar subwoofers and i prefer it to alot of subs made now in the $1000 range

[@dougbulldog9947]

Great shootout, I'm impressed with the matching infinity Reference 152 Bookshelf speakers, in my bedroom set up.

[@bigharm1204]

Thanks for what you do, Really enjoy your videos. I Have 2 of the Klipsch R-12SWI love them work great zero issues (they are not the ones available at Costco! But not quite the SPL's) they have built in wireless that works great and Detachable power cable. I dont use the wireless in my new HT room, mostly because of where I have them in the front corners now and because I use mogami W2497 interconnects for everything RCA and they sound great, specially for the price. They do feel a little bass boosted when using the wireless. When I was younger I kind of liked it but now I prefer it a little tighter and cleaner. Gotta them brand new for about a 170 bucks a piece shipping and all And I have been really happy with them. There are better, I own better but then again they do cost about 10 times as much.

[@Mekkablood]

Man I just bought a subwoofer to go with my Revel m16's then you release this.... good thing I bought the infinity r12 :) Was only $170, love it.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Good choice!

[@zackw4941]

I have a pair of the Dayton 12's. I used a coupon code I searched up online and one was an open box. I was able to get them both for $230 shipped, back when they were $150 each retail. For that price, I can't complain. They shake the walls when I turn up the system and they do pretty ok with movies. They do not have enough articulation to sound good with much music, other than techno. When I bought them, I was just running some Dayton T-652 Air towers with an SMSL AD18. They were well suited to that system. I later upgraded to JBL Studio 580's, which I highly recommend when they are on sale. Most recently I swapped out the AD18 for an Emotiva TA-1. By now the subs are really the weak link. If I'm just listening to music, I might even be better off unplugging them and setting the speakers to full range, depending on the genre. That said, I mostly use them for movies and they do work well enough up to 90hz to allow the speakers to benefit from the 90hz high pass. And they do benefit from that. So I would consider the Daytons definitely better than nothing in a home theater, perhaps even a solid choice for a budget system. But they will not grow with you as you make upgrades.

[@christopherrios9252]

I have a Dayton audio 1500, that thing booms the whole house. great video I enjoyed it !

[@victormuriel7266]

Great video, loved the pink hair and the song when you said "from the windows..." hahaha. Cheers from Mexico 🇲🇽

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

haha. You're the only one who has noticed the song so far! :D

[@samwads.]

The Jamo does have auto stand-by, btw. After 15 minutes of inactivity, it goes into stand-by.

[@Clobercow1]

One interesting discussion point, and something I highly recommend doing, is that you can buy a DSP, put it in front of the subwoofer, and you can really make these linear. You can get rid of the bloated upper bass, and it these 'cheap' subs really do shine. For $100 for a minidsp, it's hard to go wrong and still keeps you under the next tier of subwoofer in costs while offering some nice quality gains. So if you already have a DSP, and a Calbrated Mic (about $200 total) that you used for your mains, then you can get a lot of mileage out of these cheap subs, especially if you want to buy multiple and take advantage of multi-sub placement.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

For sure. I've been rocking miniDSP since 2009 or so. Killer stuff.

[@scienceguy7145]

@@ErinsAudioCorner What is a DSP?

[@BL-yj2wp]

For music sure, for home theatre where a lot of subbass is need though, this sort of sub won‘t cut it. The Infinity is the most powerful here, yet you‘d need 8 of them to match the 20Hz output of a single Monoprice 12“ THX Ultra and ~22 to match one 16“ Monoprice 16“.

[@joshuaoflaherty371]

Solid point I've never tried that actually

[@Clobercow1]

@@BL-yj2wp I never claimed they would cut it. But sometimes subbass isn't the goal.

[@darling7595]

How would the monoprice budget 12 inch land on the list, would it compete with the infinity?, considering the drastic price different, would it compare with the jamo, that's a more even comparison.

[@shaolin95]

Same question I have

[@johnryan6658]

I'm starting to question any Klipsch product with an amplifier in it. They seem sketchy.

[@dieselphiend]

I have an Bic America F12 that's been running for like ten years. I've really enjoyed it, though my experience with subs is minimal.

[@stopthefomo]

So in your own home theater room, given a $2300 budget: four R12 subs or one SVS PB4000 (or equivalent)?

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

I’d have to look up the numbers because I’m not familiar with the PB4000. But I’d almost always default to multiple subwoofers. Especially when you’re talking about 4 of them.

[@nate1829]

I'd say one fantastic quality subwoofer is miles better than four subpar r12s. Maybe consider getting two SVS PB2000S or two PB3000s. Otherwise one pb4000 should be fine.

[@MrChompenstein]

Four R12 vs one SVS PB4000 isn't even the comparison to make . . . the benefits of multi-sub are not restricted to 4 subs. The diminishing returns of multi-sub are a result of it being so effective at evening out the frequency response, the other part of this that doesn't diminish is the gain in SPL from more subs. For the same $2300 you can actually have (12) R12 subs AND a 2x4 miniDSP for 4 zones of equalization. With the amount of excess excursion and power from 12 units, you can EQ in more low-low bass. Size/space restrictions is the problem here BUT for the same money, (12) R12 wont just easily beat a single PB4000, it will embarrass it.

[@Audiomainia2310]

Budget / room size are the two key factors. More importantly, room size.

[@T4ish0]

R12 at the regular price of $500 is underwhelming and stomped in performance by Monoprice 10" THX Select. I wouldn't recommend a single sub though because it will be hard to get an even moderately flat frequency response.

[@InfamazDre]

Thanks man I bought the white Jamo its on sale for $165 before tax on Amazon today!

[@tetradkepler3091]

Can anyone, including Erin, explain the key difference, besides the price difference of course, between the budget 12"'s and regular 12"s. e.g., SVS-SB1000 pro and Monolith 12" THX. I found that the regular 12"s has flat frequencey repsonse down to 25Hz, whereas all the budget subwoofers do not. Why? Are drive motors substantially different between the two classes? or presence/absence of a parametric equalizer? Thanks a lot for info, in advance.

[@AZRob.]

The Monoprice SW-12 just went on sale for $189.99 and that's the 400 watt one, not the cheapie 150 watt sub. Excellent reviews, thank you for helping me build my system! Cheers!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

It was on my list to order but they were out of stock forever. Literally got an in-stock notification Friday and I had already created my video. Oh well. Plus, I’m tapped out on money after this. I need time to recover my losses.

[@yournightmare9999]

Yeah and now you can buy Monoprice 15" SW-15 600 Watt RMS 800 Watt Peak 25-30hz for $239

[@AZRob.]

@@yournightmare9999 I saw!

[@mikedinno8413]

The SW-12 is now Wirecutter's best budget subwoofer.

[@AZRob.]

@@mikedinno8413 I ended up with the Monolith M-12 V2 12in THX Ultra, it's a beast!

[@ST4R1SM1NE]

I had the Klipsch and the Port Chuffling was so bad I returned it! Bought the BIC F12 and I couldn’t be more happier! Hits every note from movies to music! No Port Chuffling on the BIC F12

[@ryancorbell9520]

@Ryan Monaghan chuffing is referring to the sound that the sub makes when air moves in and out of the port. Generally the sound is created when the sub is pushing to large of air volume for the port to handle, thus you get a "chuffing" noise.

[@Iridiumcosmos]

Every Klipsch sub needs a horn slotted port badly. Or a flared port like how Polk does on their more expensive subs.

[@Hellboy-V]

​@@IridiumcosmosYou are not up to date... are you? Polk has standard ports nowadays... While Klipsch has entered the high-end subwoofer game... Please do your homework and research before commenting naiv and dumb stuff... Check what both brands have changed... already for a few years... Your comment is like a few months old.. meaning, you didn't check any info.

[@jamesjenkins1909]

Those plates are nothing but failed plates. My infinity is 20 years old and it is still going hard. 21:35

[@caiz1411]

Well I have bought the same one and it because you have the game and low pass phase settings wrong

[@alphacapo]

I've had an 8 inch jamo sw1008 cinema sub in my bedroom closet running at about 1-3rd volume for 20 yrs. With a outlaw 1050 No problems atall. That jamo actually is great sub I think I paid 180 for it. I'd buy another jamo sub in a heartbeat

[@number1pappy]

It's unfortunate Klipsch has not addressed and fixed the problem with its amplifier blowing in the 12 inch sub. What's the point of a discount sub if the amp is garbage?

[@powerguymark]

I appreciate the fact that you tried to actually collect data unlike most reviewers on KZbin. Thank you for that. I also agree that one should pay attention to the linearity looking for extreme peaks and valleys. Having said that these are BUDGET subwoofers. MEANING: people looking at this price point are trying to use them for both music AND movies in most cases. I'm not sure linearity should be the end all- be all. If this was strictly for a music application I would say yes, but since this is a budget subwoofer review, I'm assuming anyone in this price range is also straddling the fence wanting a system to work well for music AND home theater use. The curves that you chose as being the most linear appear to be the ones that also are lacking the most in the low end by several DB! That's going to suck when you're watching movies. Ironically, the subwoofer that you kept throwing out ( BIC America F12) showed pretty decent testing according to your tests and also extended MUCH further and deeper for more enjoyable low-end music and movies. I'm not sure why you had such bias against the BIC America F12, but it appears to me that on the low end it outperformed your top top picks by several DB. Maybe I missed something... I mean I did try to freeze the video and look at the data. Right now, the BIC America F12 can be purchased on Amazon for $250 And it has a peak output of 450w! That's going to be thunderous and very pleasing when watching movies. Rather than buy single $500 to $700 SVS subwoofer, I would buy a pair of these for $500 and have lower extending bass for both movies and music. I welcome a rebuttal. Anyway, thank you for the review.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

I provided the results in a table, linked in the description. Per the results: @16Hz - Bic was tied for 3rd most output (Infinity and Jamo were 1st/3rd, Dayton was tied for 3rd) @20Hz - Bic was 4th @25Hz - Bic/Dayton/Jamo were all within a few tenths of a dB The Bic then picks up.... but is non-linear and more peaky in response. So, as I said, the other speakers I would recommend are more linear and have more output on the low end. Cheers!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Infinity SUB R12: shop-links.co/chJC92yN2q2 Jamo C912: shop-links.co/chJC92AqjBY Dayton SUB 1200: bit.ly/3Cn8jNr Bic F-12: bit.ly/3Gttr7e Klipsch R-12SW: shop-links.co/chJC92qytcj OSD Trevoce12DSP: amzn.to/3BgXgUJ (above links are affiliate links which helps me earn a small commission at no additional cost to you)

[@aitchr8770]

So what were you covering you the front of the OSD Travoche? Looked like damage?

[@gtoutdoors1197]

Only looked at buying the Starke SW15 for $499 but now started thinking again about OSD Nero FS-12 the dual ported 12" 600 Watts RMS with a DSP On/Off switch on the back for $360. Free 2 days shipping. But OSD really exaggerating the specs saying 15HZ or 18HZ and Level 4 Cedia, etc. You will get like 25HZ but it will shake the windows and doors or cabinets.

[@glengatt3941]

You pay wow you really love this hobby that is legit,I got 2 of the klipsh r 120sw I hear that they are basically the same the r 12 SW and the r 120 sw , money wise where I live everything expensive the klipsh is 450€ each I wish the prices are everywhere more or less the same

[@VGiena]

Finally, been waiting for the results. Thanks erin going to pick up one of the winners using the link. Support erin use the links !

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks for the support!

[@dancontreras3628]

Glad to hear this. I have two of the infinity r12s in my system.

[@maheeinfy13]

Thanks for confirming with data why for years i felt Dayton sub1200 was underwhelming but similarly priced Infinity R12 impressed me. R12 performs similar to Klipsch R112sw which is $300 on sale

[@holmessph7]

From a stand point of used pricing, almost no body on the planet has heard of BIC I feel like. If you own a DSP (I do) the BIC subs you can get used for dirt cheap because it doesn't have a recognized brand. Two of these behind a DSP to give it a perfect curve for your room gives you a ridiculously cheap cost for what you're getting. For people who just want to buy a single sub and throw it into a corner somewhere, it's not the right sub. Great testing.

[@AUClay]

I just subscribed after watching a review you did on the SVS SB-2000 Pro and SB-3000. Amazing review that literally made my decision.

[@xKMA371x]

Just wanna say!. I run 3 klipsch Spl120 subwoofers. Not bad- But they do sound good for being almost 2yrs old...Have listened to lots of people saying that some klipsch amps have issues...With my subs no problem s yet!.

[@PeteBasel]

Nice work again Erin. I'd be very curious to know where each of these are tuned in the bass. HSU used the phrase "True Subwoofer" way back when they got in the business meaning that if you are going to call it a subwoofer it should at least do 30 Hz or even 20 Hz well. They were usually tuned below 25 Hz because the vent significantly increases MAX SPL by decreasing driver excursion. Note that the Jamo has significantly lower output as compared to the others below 30 Hz. I consider 28 Hz as a good lower target for typical music, not including organ or synth, and given the increase in audibility threshold for humans with decreasing frequency we have to consider if the sub can produce enough output to make 28 Hz a reasonable target. These are big subs so they should all do it with authority. Getting to 20 Hz and below for organ, synth, HT effects, etc. is much more difficult due to the increase in required volume displacement combined with increasing human threshold of hearing at the listening position.

[@docwho10th88]

I have the 15 HSU's and these are entry level mid bass drivers compared to the large box heavy hitters.

[@TwistedAudio]

The pintbf 30 hz or belw is to feeeeeel the bass man its all part f the fun "experience" James been making massive subs and 3 ways and 400w 15" 3 ways as big as your washing machine, gd time use had with many an house party with a couple 365's and a couple cerwin vegas decks and some jungle techno rattling the building. Bout 94 that was, pure awesomeness. I was 13 yrs old n off me nut "shhhh😃🔉

[@joecox9958]

nice but most are sold out, do you have a updated video thanks a lot!

[@irchbarney7520]

I've wondered this for years: Why did speaker makers switch from cardboard woofers to the different plastics like polyurethane and such, and which is better? Thanks 😁

[@TwistedAudio]

Pro audio speaker company's and cabinet builders and speaker companies all use paper pulp or pressed paper pulp or non pressed paper pulp "cardboard?!" Not cardboard but it is and has allways been the best material for making speaker cones with. Any other material used is purely aesthetics and a marketing gimmic ourely based on what it looks like in your room gloss finnish bad ass black aluminium sub with a phat high roll surround and ish loads of pre loaded dsp settings. And if anyone tells you otherwise is lieing to you or does not care to help pointbyou in the right direction and help you research and enlighten yourself. Hope that helps and keep it turned up.🔉

[@michaelcoakley3139]

Great video I have two hsu vtf-3 but want to even put the response around my seating and two infinity “end tables” might be the ticket

[@colbylaro9361]

Those are some good descriptive words..especially, "I feel firmly"

[@jamesjenkins1909]

I been lucky to find 2 triad 600 dsp subwoofer rack amps i like to use in DIY subs. What size of sub would you suggest and would you have anything for sell rhat those amps can handle cheap as possible?!. I also have 2 of the 350 dsp rack amps from triad but i modded them with my DefTec 7004s and definitely sounds better then their backed in filters on those plates.

[@alexdavis3700]

Where did u get your AUX inputs at that u was using for your phone to play music on the speakers with?? I didnt know they had an aux input i wanna start hooking my phone up now to my speaker

[@dustinstelly6518]

I found a Yamaha subwoofer at a thrift store for $15 and it's sounded great for like a decade for me.

[@ColocasiaCorm]

Erin what about dynamic compression measurements for subs?

[@rennoc_88]

I got it at Costco for $170 and it works great! I have some videos on it playing lows. It can move my windows at 21hz although I do have a small room. It gets loud and low.

[@f1shb0n3d]

Thanks for your great work on this, it would be very beneficial for the community! Feeling good about getting 4x Infinity R12 for my home theater :) Now that R12 is the "winner", would you consider testing how it performs stock vs stuffed port in a separate video? I think it would be very interesting to see if FR linearity is hurt much and how much dB of output is lost with a stuffed port, essentially converted to sealed sub. When putting 4 subs in corners these rear ports are too close to the wall to be doing any good I think and with 4 subs you get plenty of output overall to be able to afford some dB loss from stuffing.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

If I have time I’ll try. But I’m so swamped with stuff (personal and hobby) that I can’t make any promises.

[@juswalte]

Ah man, you spoiled the video for me. I read this before watching hah. Glad to know the sub i bought already was the winner!

[@Roof_Pizza]

I'd rather 2 better ones myself.

[@f1shb0n3d]

@@Roof_Pizza Which 2 would you buy for $340 each (same price) and have better result than 4 R12s?

[@matsudakodo]

I don't recommend trying to "convert" a ported sub to sealed by stuffing the ports. Just turn the subs so the drivers are near the wall for the best response and keep a few inches of space for the port.

[@Fvission]

Glad I picked up 2 infinity's for my garage setup while they were on sale! They sound pretty good even while comparing to my Rythmiks!

[@tomlees7477]

Can't wait to get the Infinity R12. Everywhere else are out of stock beside Amazon and it's not not really on sale for $249.

[@brentwhipple7578]

curious where the monolith 12" budget sub would stack up against these, appears the R12 is discontinued sadly

[@richgirl5625]

thank you i bought the jamo c912 sub based on the video review and i am satisfied, i covered the bass port with cotton socks as i dont want boomy bass

[@Mjaybird]

Don’t know if you said this but do you set each sub the same way in the receiver like LFE 120 and -3? What do you put the gain as?

[@blaze2051]

Thanks!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thank you!

[@-Good4Y0u]

was the monoprice 12 renamed to (or replaced by) the Monoprice 12 Inch 150 Watt (109723) (from the sheet)

[@xCyAx]

Damn, wanted to start build a home theater and Infinity SUB R12 is nowhere to be found, especially in Europe. Ill have to content with Jamo C912. You know anything about the Klipsch R-120SW? is it the same as the 12SW and looks differ?

[@NickkaDUB]

What’s your recommendation for the $500-$1000 range?

[@mechanuts7191]

Great video Fellow Tuber!!! I am in the market for a pair of subwoofers for my home audio system and came across your channel in the process. I am discouraged finding out that most of the "good choices" all fail to utilize high level inputs. I have an ancient Sherwood USA (before Inkel Co of South Korea bought them out)head unit that has a great deal of buzz on all the channels with outputs for a subwoofer, therefore I am forced to use the Video 1 channel ( only channel without a loud buzz for some reason) and that narrows my choices to subs with high level in/out. I have tried to eliminate the buzz on several occasions always leading to frustration once realizing the idiopathic nature of the buzz...I.E. I cant figure out what is causing it. Its sooo weird because every channel EXEPT video1 has the buzz at all volume levels where as the video1 only has a noticeable buzz at levels over 70ish percent of output. The buzz is there regardless of input/output connectivity and I have the ground loops isolated at the source. A head banger of a diagnosis to perform for a novice audiophile. I have deduced it is an internal issue with the 20+ year old receiver and that is out of my range of diagnostic capability....well that and the fact that almost ANY sub $200 receiver from a reputable brand made in the past few years will assuredly out perform my 20yo "high end" sherwood receiver so I may just have to replace it.

[@MeezyPeezy]

Looks like BIC went lowest but you dismiss it right away. What am I missing ?

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

I provided the results in a table, linked in the description. Per the results: @16Hz - Bic was tied for 3rd most output (Infinity and Jamo were 1st/3rd, Dayton was tied for 3rd) @20Hz - Bic was 4th @25Hz - Bic/Dayton/Jamo were all within a few tenths of a dB The Bic then picks up.... but is non-linear and more peaky in response. So, as I said, the other speakers I would recommend are more linear and have more output on the low end. Cheers!

[@MeezyPeezy]

@@ErinsAudioCorner thanks for the clear description!

[@ro63rto]

I have an old but perfectly adequate (except sub) Sony HTK-215 surround sound system for the bedroom. It has an active SA-WMS215 50watt RMS Subwoofer which is ok at low volumes but lacks when I crank it up a bit. I want to replace it with a better active one but it's connected by a single RCA lead. What units do you suggest I look at ?

[@FoxAlky]

Yamo c912 have 75watt or 200watt rms, because jamo shop says 75 watt rms other shop says 200watt. Yamo j12 will be stronger than c912 or not?

[@joeyrdz1]

Erin what do you think of the ELAC SUB1225? Considering that sub or the Klipsch R-100SW or R-120SW

[@Luminated67]

Without hearing them purely based on the data I would have went with the Jamo, it’s more linear which should make for the more musical…. in theory. LOL

[@gtoutdoors1197]

OSD Trevoce 12's I have it and it's Very Good for movies, but it was Not Good the first 3 months until you finish the 'Break-In' period. Now it's Beast Mode deep bass as well as precision bass you hear in movies like 'Justice League' and 'Mad Max Fury Road' when all 3 woofers hit precisely to the movie soundtrack just Awesome sound. If you get REL, HSU or SVS you don't have to wait for th break-in period it's going to be great from day 1.

[@Audiomainia2310]

Great breakdown - I bought the Klipsh R12S sub from Costco at $149.99 / returned it the following day. They port chuffing was horrendous, and a noticeable hum from the built in amp - junk.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks for the info!

[@crazebane4394]

Damn is it really that bad. I was gonna order it for that same price 😔

[@Audiomainia2310]

@@crazebane4394 It really is that bad. Nasty port chuffing. And mine was brand new. A classic example of " your get what you pay for".

[@buffallopete]

@@Audiomainia2310 IDK man I have both Klipsch R12SW and R10SW. They slam pretty hard and tight with zero port noises . The R12SW goes really low. Maybe you had a bad luck run?

[@Audiomainia2310]

Its possible, but I went with an RSL Speedwoofer 10S and couldn't be happier. Cost more, but for sound and power output it was well worth the investment. Glad to hear you're happy with yours / that's what counts brother!

[@rolandomota7474]

The infinity R12 is sold out anywhere :(. Can the Bic be stuffed inside to minimize the ringing at 50hz

[@T4ish0]

Thanks for the test, finally a good budget choice for Europeans (Jamo c912, about 300 euro). Frankly, it makes the decision even harder. Otherwise, I would be forced to stretch my budget and buy 2x Monoprice 10" THX Select. The difference is there in the measurements, but do I really need it for a 20m^2 room?

[@ZackCrain]

SVS has some compelling options, curious how they stack up

[@osutx427]

I purchased the jamo c912 based on your recommendation. What are your thoughts on the Dayton DSP-LF for this sub?

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

I’m not familiar with the Dayton. I did look it up real quick and it looks like a nice tool to have.

[@steveschwartz9421]

Fyi, the B.I.C. driver is a metal "looking" driver, It's actually a synthetic plastic (PP, PP/Mica) injection molded driver. Additionally, passive radiators are essentially the same as a ported box; they are both considered a “vented” design. As for the finishes, a veneer is anything that is laid over or pressed/glued to the surface of another. In these instances, most are either vinyl-wrap or a thin layer of real wood, painted or stained. These “veneers” are usually bonded to an MDF/Plywood/Particle board substrate which allows for the aesthetics of real wood with the sonic benefits and MUCH lower cost of the engineered substrate. Anodizing is strictly a treatment applied to (most often) aluminum, but always metal, not wood. ;)

[@unbiased2023]

I decided to buy a polk audio PSW12 what is you opinion

[@pgamez4077]

Your videos are very informational. budget stuff is fun to explore

[@RoverWaters]

do I have to use L&R rca inputs or can I use just one channel?

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Most of these only need a single RCA input. But I can’t remember any of them need both L&R. I’m pretty sure they do not.

[@alikanarya7505]

Thanks a lot for a wonderful review Erin. Could you have a chance to experince Polk's new XT12? Since it is new I couldnt find any review. I am a about to replace my dead sub, I am looking for a budget one and this one is in my list. The other candidates available in my country are Elacs Debut S10.2 & Polk PSW40. These are chepaer here, almost half of XT12. Looking for your comments. Thanks.

[@123jahjas]

Do the high level inputs/outputs allow you to run signal from an amplifier to the sub then to your L/R channels?

[@rynev3392]

I imagine if someone bought 2 or 4 of one of those subwoofers and using a miniDSP to correct the frequency response would have a decent sounding system

[@JodyM2]

It's Vinyl Siding Veneer is wood am I wrong?

[@sandyearllarsen2820]

Absolutely well done mate. Very clear well presented videos that you do are really appreciated. Cheers

[@catalyst429]

the infinity link is just to the speaker with no box?

[@volkiruski1221]

I want to buy a new another bigger subwoofer, so I watch your video too, Thank you, ok, lets gooooooo!!

[@garyausten5939]

Maybe a dumb question, but frequency response among models and woofer size being equal, how important is pure power? I've replaced my front satellites with Klipsch RP-600Miis and just this afternoon ordered an R-34C. I looked at the specs on my 10" sub and it seems to "boom" OK, but I was surprised it's only 65W. If I replaced it with something in the 150-200W would I notice a difference other than a lighter wallet??? Also, do you need to match manufacturers?

[@baronvonlimbourgh1716]

No closed boxes in there?

[@pliedtka]

Erin, what is the low frequency driver you have sitting on the bench, behind the midbass with white cone ? I still have the dbx 120X low freq synthesizer from 80-90s, very cool unit.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

It’s a Seas coaxial.

[@pliedtka]

The one behind the Seas, it looks like a big sub unit with multiple magnets glued together. I read you will measure the Seas, interesting how it turn out.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

@@pliedtka oh, that’s a Skar Audio subwoofer. Car audio company. I reviewed that earlier this year.

[@alvarg]

any budget powered subs with a line in and out, so I can use the sub as a crossover/high pass filter to the speakers? I currently have powered speakers with inputs only no outputs

[@lennieseay7009]

Great work Erin and very informative comparison of many of the 12” models! Have you done any comparison of 15” subwoofers? I am currently leaning towards two HSU VTF3 MK5 subwoofers for a 5000 cubic foot dedicated home theatre. Do you have any other recommendations for a better performance/ value 15” subwoofer?

[@lionelh152]

it is strange , erin website cover rythmik F12 and no vidéo about this speaker in youtube . I really think that this subwoofer worth it . This subwoofer is relative old .......Is there better subwoofer in 2024 for the same size speaker and ampli power ? Thank's

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

That was from 2012.

[@jamesjenkins1909]

What do you have for sell today?

[@foreverendeavors6210]

I have some infinity "entra ones" from 15-20 years ago, they have preformed great for me, besting many other larger speakers I have had than gotten rid of, they are only bookshelf speakers, however the sound quality has just been solid! Finally the tweeters failed, so I installed some klipsch horns on top, and have been impressed with the performance and longevity, I know, the tweeters failed, however I have been running these speakers hard for a very long time, they have been my mids and highs along side 3 10" kicker subs, they were all new around the same time, and i have had to replace the surround on the kickers, I am impressed with these infinity speakers..

[@baronvonlimbourgh1716]

Infinity always was quality stuff.

[@bobsherman6790]

How do you really know about the OSD? You turned on the DSP, did you use it? Maybe not so highest output with Maybe you could’ve flattened and extended the response to make it usable? Is the loudest always the best??? Curious

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

You must have missed the part where I talked about exactly that. @06:54

[@Fossillarson]

Love my R12sw ! With two r51 bookshelf and smaller 2 woofer 5" reference center I wanting to add a r100sw to it get that 10" punch and also adding r28pf towers soon also so 4 more 8" woofers pushing air definitely keep wife pist off 4 doors away lol

[@thehighcontemplator2200]

What happened to the Seas coax you were measuring, Erin?

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

It's right next to me in this video. :)

[@justinbeamon6624]

I would say for the budget range the Bic-F12 is the king. No port chuffing at all like the Klipsch and delivers all 150 watts rms with authority. Definitely needs EQ, it likes to peak a lot but once you control it it's a fantastic option. Still waiting for in depth review of the PL-300 by Bic.

[@joshuaoflaherty371]

Notable mention to BIC v1020 and v1220. Ive seen them almost new or new for 70-100$ and they sound similar to the f12

[@spareplanet]

Any suggestions for a budget 12” driver that would be pretty flat down to around 30hz? (I have a Monoprice 150W active sub that only goes down to 50hz and I want to replace the driver. I’d like it to be able to at least reproduce the low E on a bass guitar (41Hz) without significant dropoff (meaning less than -3dB)

[@ZackCrain]

Trying to find this Infinity sub in late 2023 and nobody has it, only walmart and at $500. Everywhere else even Ebay seems to no longer sell it. As the best recommended option that sucks

[@evilmonstertruck]

I just wish the infinity had speaker level inputs

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

You're not alone with that wish.

[@hometheaterjoe9489]

How does my guy Erin NOT have a million subs??!! Love your work sir, BOOM

[@1337sim1]

Why is frequency response more important than max output? My understanding is that people usually have AVRs with EQ capabilities. For example, isnt it better to have higher output and bring down the peaks with EQ VS low output but flat frequency response? Thanks

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

The linearity of the max output is what I put more emphasis on with the Jamo. If another subwoofer has higher output at 50 Hz, but much less at 20 Hz, then you cannot increase its max SPL capability at that lower frequency via EQ.

[@1337sim1]

​​​@@ErinsAudioCorner thank you for your answer! If I understand correctly, both FR and output are important. The FR is the tone sweep playing at a certain volume. For example, the perfect subwoofer could be flat from 20 to 100hz at that volume (ex. 70db) Problem is that if you bring the volume really high, the "perfect subwoofer" could be output limited at certain frequencies. This limitation would change the real FR at that higher volume (90, 100, 110db, etc). Does that make sense? Thanks!

[@uncleswing4046]

Who was the winner?

[@WarrenGaum]

I subscribed. Thanks for the video. Hope you reach 1 million subscribers 👍😁