Budget IRS2092 500W amplifier subwoofer project powered by SMPS 500W -+58V

Please read the comments before.
DIY IRS2092S 500W Mono Channel Digital Amplifier Class D HIFI Power Amp Board With FAN with SMPS 500W dual 58V power supply, test and results.
The Monacor subwoofer cabinet has been stripped by any filters and transformers, it is just a simple loudspeaker cabinet now.
Need a multimeter? ..check this kaiweets.com/products/kaiweet...
00:00 description
00:30 SMPS power supply +-58V
01:00 500W power amplifier
01:20 about low cut filter
03:35 How to connect the SMPS and the amplifier
04:37 power up !
05:00 resistor burn out!
06:00 voltage control
06:30 let's test another board!
07:00 same resistor burned
08:00 dumping the input 22nF
08:40 more tests
10:00 440Hz test
10:45 auto oscillating problem
13:00 final remarks

[@barneycarparts]

I finally got that $15 500watt Chinese Amp operational last night. Dang!!! Its loud. The way I have it hooked up is 58VDC so it will prolly be just over 100Watts RMS. Mebby 113W. But the power supply runs Hot. roughly bout the same heat as 2 100 watt light bulbs so I need a fan on the power resistors. Calculated power draw from the plug is 1.17 Amps. Its a Power Amp chip made by Infinion. I think its an American company. So far I'm impressed. I can plug a guitar right into the input no preamp needed. But it needs a volume control. My ears are still ringing. The PS is just a full wave bridge rectifier plugged into 117VAC wall plug, then DC is divided by 2 100watt 50 ohm resistors screwed down to a large heat sink, and filtered by 2 1000uf 100v caps. 100 watts is all Im after so I may add another 10 or 20 ohms to the resistor divider for less heat.

[@viocaia]

Interesting! All of this on a chip, or the same IRS2092 like in my video?

[@markcohen1680]

I have tested these units extensively and now use them in a professional sound reinforcement application. When connected and used properly they deliver truly excellent performance. Unfortunately, this KZbin video shows very improper use. Here are some notes: 1. Choose a power supply appropriate to the speaker load. For an 8 ohm speaker, the optimum voltage is 63V. For a 4 ohm speaker use a 45V supply. The formula: V = sqrt(500W * speaker_impedance). 2. Class D amps, such as this one, work by switching their outputs high and low at frequencies far above the audible range. What you see as "oscillation" on the output is actually the carrier frequency. Under normal conditions (connected to a speaker load) the carrier signal is about 2 Volts. Because we cannot hear above 20 kHz, and the loudspeaker cannot reproduce sound at that frequency, this carrier leakage is not a problem. According to the manufacturer, the switching frequency should be close to 400 kHz (as it is in the modules I have purchased). The small potentiometer near the input is used to adjust that frequency. This adjustment is necessary or advisable ONLY if you have multiple modules running off of the same power supply. Improper settings greatly reduce the efficiency of the circuit and can result in overheating. 3. NEVER APPLY POWER TO THE AMP WITHOUT FIRST CONNECTING A LOAD! For testing, you can use high power resistors. The output of the amp drives a low-pass filter. The 10 Ohm resistor is burning out because, without a proper load, the amp is delivering its high frequency carrier frequency across that filter network. 4. Toucing the input leads with your hands as you have done here, effectively couples AC line noise to the amp by using your body as an antenna. Depending on the environment, this can be several volts and can easily drive the amplifier to its full output power, potentially burning out your speaker. NEVER DO THIS! Attach the input to a proper source such as a music device or function generator. ========= On my bench, these amps deliver their full rated power. The signal to noise ratio (SINAD) is better than 80 dB (the limit of my test equipment), meaning that they are basically noise free. Silent, really. The frequency response is flat over the entire audio range. Other comments: -- The power and speaker connectors are cheap and flimsy. You can purchase quality 0.2" spacing Phoenix connectors on the web inexpensively, and replace these. -- The Chinese amp is based on a reference design published by the manufacturer (Infineon Technologies). For some reason, the Chinese amp uses a 100 Ohm resistor for R13 (near the input connector). The recommended value is 3.1K. I have replaced mine with 3.3K devices. This replacement is a bit tough for hobbyists, as they are surface mounted resistors. -- Even though the amp is close to 90% efficient, at full load, it must still dissipate 50W as heat. The fan and heat sink on this unit are marginal, and the output transistors are not attached properly to the heat sink. At a minimum, be sure that you have good ventilation near the power amp. A much better choice is to replace the heat sink and fan. In my case, I desolder the output MOSFETS from the board, and attach them to a proper heat sink. I then resolder the transistors to the underside of the board,. This allows me much greater flexibility in heat sink design. -- You may find it desirable to add some filter capacitors across the power supply input lines. Several thousand microfarads will help. Be sure to use capacitors with voltage ratings at least 20% higher than the supply voltage. Place these as close as possible to the amp to reduce the resistive losses from the power supply wires.

[@viocaia]

Thank you so much! I didn't succeed and I gave up to easy, but all your comments and some others here make me rethinking the project..but I'll try another approach with a classic transformer rectifier capacitors power supply..I think that PSU I used wasn't exactly in order for this kind of amplifiers..again, thanks for advice!

[@MechInvent]

Can this be used for 12 volts on an 8 ohm speaker? I'm an ME, this is a bit over my head.

[@viocaia]

@@MechInvent No, it needs a double power supply at lest 55V..

[@MechInvent]

@@viocaia interesting. I appreciate the response. Never even heard of that, all I know is home audio and car audio (120ac and 12dc)

[@martyhewes8589]

Thank you for your knowledgeable post about using these things. My intent is to use a couple in a bass guitar amplifier for outdoor concerts. Reliability at high power is essential.

[@cocosloan3748]

I love Tommy !

[@viocaia]

Me too!

[@viocaia]

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[@viocaia]

Here you have a very nice forensic electronic work I may say from Engineering Essentials '' R13 modification (10 ohm to 3k) that was successful, capacitor blown up due to sustained oscillation at output. Changed capacitor. I probed every pin and point of the board. The board is very small for the purpose and the resistors are of less wattage than recommended. But it works after R13 modification, 2Hr played with high volume no problem so far. That 10Ohm resistance is just warm but the big toroid filter is getting hot during operation, even switches are very cool. Do the modification it is worth the money.'' Thanks for sharing !!

[@viocaia]

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[@prosound7342]

Почему я не могу скопировать текст для перевода

[@viocaia]

@@prosound7342 Субтитры автоматически генерируются KZbin, поэтому текста нет ... извините!

[@prosound7342]

@@viocaia (((

[@prosound7342]

@@viocaia can this solve my problem? I bought this amplifier, I tried 58 + 58 73 + 73, the speaker resistance is 4 ohm, 8 ohm, when a signal is applied, the amplifier goes into protection and the speaker claps, when a very quiet signal is applied, there is sound

[@selwyndookie9705]

I INSTALLED this on a powered sub as a replacement amp, I HAD SIMULAR ISSUES , it worked great after i used a lower voltage power supply 45v+/- and lower capacitance on the power supply 1500uf

[@viocaia]

Nice to let us know! I just quit the project,Maybe Iater...

[@lsren8706]

hi there is a error on these amp.. resistor R13 close to the trimpot is only 100 ohm and this is way to small change it to 3kohm and the amp don´t osc anymore..these amp needs very high input so use a buffer in front.. i use two af these in brigde mode driving 2 15 inch in a bandpass disco sub and they really put out some serius power...the subfilter you show is really bad and don´t work probleby..

[@viocaia]

@@lsren8706 Hey! great news! Nice to know! I'll retry to have one working.

[@gorgi991]

@@lsren8706 whats wrong with the sub filter? i was thinking about ordering it

[@viocaia]

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[@agusyuliyanto1050]

hello, its working good , i use dc 60v +/- , i am tested with transformer and smps everything its good , i installed use power suply transformer ac45 ct 45v (under ac45 not working) and use 2 capacitor 10000 uf 70v , dioda bridge 10A ...loud and clear

[@viocaia]

Nice! Probably my smps was to big like voltage or not powerful enough.I'll put a transformer together, the classic way like you did and try again.

[@dushyantchaudharymathura]

It supports voltage till 70v if you are using smps supply and if you are using transformer supply, you need minimum 42 to 45 volts.

[@viocaia]

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[@Giri166]

Nice

[@viocaia]

Thanks

[@viocaia]

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[@griffinacoustics]

Check the r13 of board near the audio signal side. It should be 3k. Not 100e I bought one, which had manufacturing error. Replaced r13 with 3.3k and it worked like charm

[@viocaia]

I'll do! Thank you so much!

[@EngineeringEssentials]

True, mine one have blown up in 5 seconds 😣

[@viocaia]

Hey! Please subscribe! Thanks!

[@michaelroek5429]

Hi Viorel, thanks for the video. Not cientific, but nice as an information. Class D amps require special care ;-) and all of these gadgets are minimalist! Do never use the kind of SMPS or Class-D amp without additional measures like additional filtering and shielding. If you chek the IRS2092 data sheet you can see, what this unit CAN achieve! If it is used correctly and professionally. WIll keep yu informed about mine (to arrive in 2 weeks ;-) PD.: I hope you know, voltages > 60V DC are considered lethally dangerous! (Check safety standards of your country).

[@viocaia]

Super! It's exactly what we need, to learn from each other and why not saving some money not doing the same mistakes.Let us know how is your project going.There are also a lot of nice info from the others in the comments!

[@viocaia]

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[@alexanderkimani2688]

What would explain loud clicks about every half second. Im using +-53v and 4 ohm sub. There is a preamp. Replaced the 100 ohm with 3.3k resistor. Its like it never fully turns on, heat sink cool to the touch. Has not produced sound just really loud thumps every couple of seconds.

[@viocaia]

Follow the comments, there are few solutions. Personal, I didn't succeed to make one sound good. I just gave up. Clicks, probably from auto oscillation of some sort.

[@KorAllRBare]

***Tip*** That adjustment is to match two or more modules to the same operating frequency, also note with Class D Amp it's a good idea to run one amplifier with an inverted signal to cancel out Power supply bumping and, and I stress it also helps to cancel out distortion, one more thing if one channel is fed with an inverted signal that modules speaker needs to be reverse polarity.

[@viocaia]

Thanks for the tips!

[@viocaia]

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[@diegosiqueira5478]

Obrigado ajudar me deu a ideia caixa 2 de 10 polegadas mais drave

[@viocaia]

De nada!

[@smanuel827]

I have a couple of those modules, my question is how to connect them to the audio input correctly since I tried in several ways and I have a very strong buzz in the audio output

[@viocaia]

Please read the comments, there are a lots of tweaks to be done for a properly results..starting with the power supply

[@Rtek-zv5lr]

Hello, the board is only 250W @ 4 ohms maximum. Chinese manufacturers have difficulty understanding that two 250W channels operating in bridge are needed to provide 500W of power. This board is based on the electronic schematic of IRAUDAMP7S, but resistors R13 (100R) and R15 (130k) appear in the diagram with different values, R7 (3.01k) and R8 (120k).

[@Rtek-zv5lr]

(For IRAUDAMP7S) NOTE: Potentiometer P1A and P1B have been set to zero ohms. This is configured as a 2 terminal variable resistor. This should be set to 200 ohms. This will give a nominal operational frequency of 400kHz for the amplifier module. Check the tightness of the devices on the heatsink. (Source: larrynz911)

[@viocaia]

I gave up with this..they sound bad and lots of problem..classic AB it's for me the best! Much more expensive of course but totally different sound quality.

[@apc2729]

No, with good input of 1.5 volt signal, you get more than 450 into 4vohms load

[@apc2729]

@@viocaia You can use it for subwoofer or only low side driver where you need much more power. Subwoofer will drive beautifully

[@viocaia]

@@apc2729 You just make me try it again...I'll be back..properly this time! Thanks! Did you make any mods to your board..like better cooling, resistors..capacitors..anything?

[@GeorgSoecal]

Hey, what kind of power supply did you use. There would be some link to buy. Thank you

[@viocaia]

It was from Alibaba..I have to find the order, so I,ll be back with info

[@barneycarparts]

What power supply do you recommend for 100watts RMS? And, whats it sound like? Some of these "D:" class amps have all the high fidelity of an Ice Machine at a Motel 6.

[@viocaia]

I believe +-50V will be ok for 100W. The sound it's typical class D, kind of ''trumpet'' but pretty ok for a subwoofer. There are some mods you can do for better behave. Check the comments, plenty of good advices.

[@raylow304]

Did you consider adding an low pass preamp?

[@viocaia]

yes , it should be nice--

[@enriqueentiquez3202]

Buen video tienes el link de compra de la fuente.?

[@viocaia]

Hey! I couldn't find those power supplies anymore, it's like vanishing from earth! Sorry!

[@josepeixoto3384]

it plays music, loud? clear? thumping,tight bass?

[@viocaia]

With some tweaking ..yes..Please read the comments and do as they say.

[@dushyantchaudharymathura]

You need to provide at least line level input audio may be from op amp pre amplifier. I have heard that i needs at least 1.5 v rms input

[@viocaia]

Be sure I did all the right levels, there is a a flow in design, please read the comments, there are solves to the problem.I'll be back soon with some more testing, now with a classic power supply.

[@apc2729]

@@viocaia no, from the mobile phone audio out , you will get only 200 milli volt maximum ( which is designed to use with earphone or any other amp which has pre amp ) so, why didn't you add a pre amp before power amp? Pre amp is so simple and measure input signal voltage also. ........It seems you are a beginner ( you might be used only some ready made amp or simple class AB circuit only )

[@BrightAudioSystems]

I have bought it too, it was making smell and heat but no sound

[@viocaia]

Sorry! But you're not alone..we are a family! :-)

[@BrightAudioSystems]

@@viocaia now I am trying to get refund :)

[@iceberg789]

is it ok to use seperate amps for sub ? is there any chance lows can go out of it's phase with respect to the main audio ?

[@viocaia]

I don't see any problem as long as the speakers are all in phase.

[@viocaia]

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[@audiokees4045]

That is the filter for if there is no speaker, if it smokes there is a hig freqention oscilation, never use the vingers to test, because you give also rf through.

[@viocaia]

right! a bad idea..!No fingers..

[@ambadi1231]

This same two board working 1 trasformer howmuch voltage and howmuch ampre need please replay

[@viocaia]

Consider P=U*I so for 1000W audio power you need at least 1200W DC..you need like 60V DC, maybe max 65V...and amps... 1200W/65V=18.5A...let's say 20Amps.When AC is rectified to DC you multiply it by a factor of 1.414, because your AC voltage is being measured in RMS because its a sine wave, so for 65V DC the transformer should deliver 2x47V DC...finally , a good 2x47V AC at 20A !

[@stefandee]

please put in description the link of the item and your equipment. Thanks

[@viocaia]

The links are not valable anymore, there are some other providers, just Google for.

[@tinkermind]

1:14 Can you name the model number of the subwoofer filter?

[@viocaia]

I don't have it anymore, sorry!

[@jesusalbertoaraujo785]

I don't understand the voltage operaron of these amp Works well wich a 24-0-24VAC 33-0-33Vac and 42-0-42vac? 10amp per side. It's too much volt?

[@viocaia]

They said max +-70V, I used +-60V and it was a fiasco as you see.Probably at lower voltage it will work ..I just gave up the project , there are to many issues with this boards.Read the comments , you can find lots of fixings.

[@rakeshxpress7182]

Sir,can you please help me. I would like to know the b+ voltage for irs2092 ic in this 500w mono circuit.

[@viocaia]

I can`t help with that I don`t have the test anymore, but I suppose it`s like in the datasheet of IRS..let`s ask the community..any help everybody?

[@viocaia]

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[@jeromemauro7986]

Did u use oscilloscope to measure its RMS power ? At 1khz Pls do this, thanks in advance

[@viocaia]

I didn't..and I don't have the amplifier no more..sorry! but read the comments, there are some tests about

[@fixnreview]

Maybe that 10 ohm resistor is so small for the output load. Then u can try to replace it to a higher wattage as 5W

[@viocaia]

Did that already, read the comments, there are another issues, some of the people fix it!

[@fixnreview]

@@viocaia OK I'm sorry!

[@viocaia]

@@fixnreview No problem! Good luck!

[@fixnreview]

@@viocaia thank u sir! God bless!

[@ajouanto]

Can you provide link of the power supply

[@viocaia]

Can't find the original page but you may try something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500W-65V-Digital-Power-Dual-Voltage-PSU-Audio-AMP-Switching-Power-Supply-Board/173114224910?hash=item284e69710e:g:lhcAAOSwZ11aZYwU

[@viocaia]

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[@viocaia]

Thanks to Engineering Essentials it's looking like a way to fix the problem..please read the comments!

[@benzimanagbozo3607]

Can you give me the link to of engineering essentials? About this amp

[@viocaia]

@@benzimanagbozo3607 Please read the comments ..you will find it here somewhere..

[@viocaia]

@@benzimanagbozo3607 Try here.. www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/330201-fixing-preventing-fried-zobel-network.html

[@benzimanagbozo3607]

Ok thanks

[@kuronekosan2830]

Hi How can i add rca input ? So i can connect my passive sub to this board then send the signal to my reciever

[@viocaia]

Of course you can..

[@kuronekosan2830]

@@viocaia i am still a newbie about all these stuff Can you explain how to do that or make a video ?

[@EngineeringEssentials]

Will that resistance alteration even work??

[@viocaia]

Somehow, but no way with the power they advertise! There some ideas about how to make it work, read the comments.I gave up to experiment it..maybe I'll try again with another power supply, classic transformer because I got the feeling like the SMPS also are a source fro parasite oscillations and noises.Let us know your results, if any!

[@EngineeringEssentials]

@@viocaia ok I will trace the problem and will let you know, SMPS should not be the problem, I think voltage is the real issue here those who are using below +/-50V they are fine.

[@viocaia]

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[@KorAllRBare]

If you hook yourself up to the input of an oscilloscope, you should discover not only that mains hum but some other electronic noise, and class D amplifiers being Class D amplifiers they can amplify those signals that you can't normally hear "Frequencies Beyond our ears abilities", So long story short when you touch the inputs without any attenuation "Volume control or preamplifier connected properly via shielded audio lead your amplifier may be driven beyond its designed output with signals that you cant hear, thus frying the sacrificial resistor..

[@viocaia]

Thanks to know! I found that after I burned two amplifiers !

[@viocaia]

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[@edifierbass7821]

that's good small pack but hard to fix disposable expensive for me, so i'd rather choose an LM3886 or Stk 4142, or TDA7294,TDA2030, TDA 1515, just for me

[@viocaia]

I found TDA 7294 in bridge a very reliable and good sounding amplifier.

[@Dominik_Lnk]

Hi Is the amp using AC or DC? An could u maby link the power supply

[@viocaia]

2xDC..differential 63V ...I can't find the link for SMSP anymore..sorry!

[@enoque_.37]

Onde compramos essa fonte assimétrica pra esse amplificador classe d 500?

[@viocaia]

Aliexpress..

[@josepeixoto3384]

it costs a lot more than the amp lol

[@viocaia]

@@josepeixoto3384 Yep!

[@jesusdaniel3536]

Hello good video, with that source you used can you use 2 of those amplifiers to make it stereo ?

[@viocaia]

I just recall that power supply provides 600W so maybe with a better capacitors battery will be good enough ..but you better search for a more powerful one..like 1000W.This maplifiers are really need current..a lot!

[@jesusdaniel3536]

@@viocaia Where can I get that switched power supply? to connect 2 of those amplifiers

[@viocaia]

@@jesusdaniel3536 Please read the comment before..For the SMPS please search Aliexpress..that's where I bought it..so you need a diferential -+ max 60V DC ! Not more..

[@casimoskystudio4687]

Cha nge 100 ohm resistence to 2.2k ohm, and do not tuch pre amp in wires, than in put signel voltage will be 1.2volts from pre amp .do this it will be work well.

[@viocaia]

super !Thanks!

[@viocaia]

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[@victorponce5039]

Amigo por favor cual numero de Resistencia se deberá cambiar de 100 ohms a 2k2 ohms

[@darwinernesto8343]

what is the power supply

[@viocaia]

SMPS , switch mode power supply

[@kimatong1166]

Another channel showed his tests and this reached 450watts.

[@viocaia]

read the comments, yes it's true it can reach that power after some modifications.

[@viocaia]

But when you buy a product it should work! They said is tested and everything ready to go! As you see I had good power supply , good connections and ...magic smoke! So, don't bother to prove me wrong! I'm buiyng something, that shit should work! Not burning the house!

[@viocaia]

Another channels are sponsored by sellers or producers, so they have to come with positive reviews.But if you care to read the comments here, ypu'll see that lot of people faced the same issues like me..I'm I wrong?

[@teknoturk78]

What is the name of the app you use on your phone?

[@viocaia]

Function generator..you can find it on Google Play Store

[@teknoturk78]

@@viocaia thank you

[@eduardocosta532]

Onde encontrou uma fonte 65v+65v? Link plz

[@viocaia]

Aliexpress..but I can't see it anymore...

[@eduardocosta532]

@@viocaia ok

[@viocaia]

Please read DanidB Electronica comment..it's a really nice sinthesis about this power amplifier module!

[@viocaia]

Thanks! I will!

[@Gamerdu45]

Maybe your jack output is low they reccomend 1.5V rms at the input, and thats probably the low power and big noise.

[@viocaia]

No way..

[@Gamerdu45]

@@viocaia And also that 40 Khz is from your switching power supply i think

[@viocaia]

@@Gamerdu45 very possible ..! maybe I'll try again, I have a classic toroidal transformer to use for a power supply.

[@viocaia]

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[@tibipoka6467]

Hhi i have a psu toroidal dual 75 volt , would work with this ?? some say this can handle up to 100V...

[@viocaia]

Hey Tibi! A toroidal will be great! much better then PSU, but not more them 65V DC...maybe 70..not even think about 100! only if you want to have some fun! You know all the electronics are working with smoke! When you see the smoke out, they are dead! Joke!!!

[@tibipoka6467]

@@viocaia I wasn;t thinking about 100v but 75 v???

[@tibipoka6467]

@@viocaia 75v probably to much... :(

[@viocaia]

@@tibipoka6467 try 60V to be safe..is not a great design, it's working but lots of issues.

[@viocaia]

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[@jfssound7916]

Module kits

[@viocaia]

Right! Not the best but working..

[@francesremolleno2695]

Maybe it needs 1.5volt preamp

[@viocaia]

I had a lot of room..up to 3V..but I'll try it again with a classic power supply, real transformer and rectifiers..soon

[@asepkomara2382]

Oh,,nice,,cat😀

[@viocaia]

And cleaver too!!! ;-)

[@viocaia]

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[@g1technicalsolar]

my testing

[@viocaia]

nice!

[@viocaia]

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[@jakubduda8237]

500W and 10% THD :D

[@viocaia]

yep!

[@mollywoodlovers]

Sir please reply. What is the meaning of ± 60? The power supply of this amplifier is 60-0-60 Or is it 30-0-30?

[@viocaia]

2x60V, differential 60 V or +-60V.If measure the ends you have 120!

[@mollywoodlovers]

Thankyou Sir

[@viocaia]

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[@classix2132]

50watts lol this guy is funny ive use this to a 300rms speaker and it can drive it very well you should use eq to o filter if you want to use is as a sub woofer

[@viocaia]

Finally is it working?..

[@KorAllRBare]

With Class D Amplifiers you should never EVER touch the inputs, and that's because class D amplifiers amplify way past the audio range both below and above it, ergo when you touch the input you are feeding it extremely high voltages that you body naturally has, and these voltages drive the amp beyond what it can handle. Class D Amplifiers are switching at a extremely high frequency "beyond our hearing range" this high frequency is used to switch the output mosfets off and on at around 300Khz~600Khz, This key frequency is a square wave and to simplify this wave is a reference to switch the Output Mosfets off and on alternately, anyway long story short, that adjusting resistor sets your wave form so that the Mosfet's are switched with some dead time in between, as one works one way whilst the other after some dead time works the other way, now that oscilloscope you are using needs to measure up to at least a 1 to 2 Mhz at the very least, because you will need to adjust that resistor to the optimum frequency "usually factory set" if the module is prebuilt, change it at your own risk, if you built the amp from scratch only then will you have to adjust it for the right frequency ergo the right amount of dead time "dead time is critical if you don't want your components to blow up", also if you are setting up a stereo configuration you need to set both amplifier modules to the same optimum frequency, Check both and see which one is working at it's most optimum and then adjust the other to match it precisely, so that most if not all distortion is cancelled out especially if you invert one of the channels, once setup, they/it will drive your amplifier to it full potential, in your case a fair dinkum 500 Watts, don't forget to keep track of the phase of your signals if-n you have a stereo setup and have one with an inverted signal, also remember for that module it's speaker output is reverse phased, ergo put back into phase by treating the negative as positive and the positive as negative, if your amplifiers are not set up right you wont get the clean and powerful out put that these amplifiers are blessed with. Good Luck..

[@viocaia]

Very nice and documented remarks, thanks for sharing!

[@viocaia]

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[@victorponce5039]

Ola Amigo una pregunta por favor me podrían dar su opinión si es bueno cambiar el valor de la Resistencia R13 de 100 ohms a 3k1 ohms

[@KorAllRBare]

@@victorponce5039 100 Ohm? to 3.1 Kilo Ohm? 😲 Typing mistake maybe?? Anyway.. No.. Unless the manufacturer or circuit designer has changed things to improve function or perhaps to improve reliability. I'm curious??? What other components are being changed?..

[@victorponce5039]

@@KorAllRBare ok cambio y checo Gracias! Amigo Saludos

[@vickyyadav5833]

Sir this amplifier needs 1.5 v RMS input so use dual power supply amp otherwise you will not be get its full power. This amp is very powerful.

[@viocaia]

it is dual..of course!

[@Somesh-Ji]

He is telling about the Input signal of 1.5v (input musical power) Well from where u got this SMPS of dual power output and what is its chopping frequency,,, pls suggest

[@viocaia]

@@Somesh-Ji I really don't know about chopping freq..I didn't care, the source is from Aliexpress I recall

[@viocaia]

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[@apc2729]

@@viocaia don't connect any mobile phone directly to this amolifier without a pre amp , this amp need 1.5 volt ( atleast 1.2 volt ) of input signal . A simple pre amp using ne5532 will do this job very good

[@Denisdessupoio]

Queria o link pra comprar essa fonte chaveada , alguém pode me passa por favor !!!😉

[@viocaia]

Search AliExpress or Bangood. EBay is too expensive.

[@dushyantchaudharymathura]

You should not power on the circuit without connecting the load (woofer), resistance blew off because of this. And the board did not perform well because it needs at least 1.5 watt rms from audio source so you first need to either amplify the source or use a mixer in the source.

[@viocaia]

Thanks nice to know!

[@viocaia]

1.5watt? for input? I'm confused! And of course the amplifier was connected to the loudspeaker before power up.Believe me is not the first I tested in my life!

[@dushyantchaudharymathura]

I meant 1.5 volt rms voltage sensitivity is required for input source, would not work well with mobile air laptop source. Let me send you a link where it is written in description, although user manual for this board says that no amplification is required.

[@dushyantchaudharymathura]

The link for manual. www.google.com/url?q=www.parts-express.com/pedocs/brochures/320-313-parts-express-brochure.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjw0b_6zIHoAhVDzDgGHRgoBIMQFjAAegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw3OimGh5fMnyG818-fzi87x

[@viocaia]

@@dushyantchaudharymathura Thanks for sharing! It's useful for everyone.

[@crazy_istanbul_cat]

I connected it to my +-60v llc smps and it smells bad plastic then.Fans are still working.I connected it to speakers and it oscillates i think.It sounds drrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

[@viocaia]

Shortcut the input.It should be dead silent...if you can lower the power supply voltage.if you have an oscilloscope check for output oscilations and tge working frequency 400khz, adjust from the little trimmer on the board..

[@crazy_istanbul_cat]

@@viocaia Hi.My oscilloscope is about 40years old and not working well.Thank god one channel is working :) In other youtube channel someone suggested not to start amplifier without connecting the speaker.And i am already using them for subwoofers and 400kHz very high and not necessary! I will check other one tomorrow.Thank you!

[@viocaia]

@@crazy_istanbul_cat this is a class D amplifier, is working with PWM pulse wide modulation, 400khz is necesary for ''scanning'' the audio signal, is not ment to be reproduced...so, check the mosfet integrity...maybe is one blown..good luck!

[@crazy_istanbul_cat]

@@viocaia And sound comes from speaker when i touch to black input cable.Is not it gnd?I thought it should be red to make it sound ?

[@viocaia]

Yes , it should be red, but check the board, GND should be the biggest track...anyway , it's strange piece of amplifier, I just gave up long ago..it was to much tweaks and peaks and no results...

[@toff5812]

Bonjour, j'ai deux board IRS2092 comme la vôtre avec une alimentation +-65V pour les deux boards, tout est branché correctement mais dés que je branche mon PC,téléphone etc... a l'ampli (avec un câble jack/RCA) un bruit trés fort sort de mes enceintes,"BUZZZ, souffle et même le bruit des ventilateurs qu'il y'a sur les boards !!!" mais il suffit que je débranche l'entrée droit ou gauche de l'ampli et tout reviens dans l'ordre mais je ne peux pas utiliser la deuxième board ,"seulement en mono quoi" avez vous une solutions je suis perdu dans tout ça, je me monte souvent des ampli avec les modules que l'on trouve sur internet mais cela ne m'étais jamais arrivé Cordialement

[@viocaia]

comme je le disais modules très étranges, soyez très prudent avec le shilding, il est sujet à l'auto-conciliation, essayez de mettre environ 10n condensateurs à la fin et environ 0,33 ou plus en parallèle avec le filtre existant dans la sortie. expérimenter avec la stéréo tout simplement mono mais j’étais très déçu. De plus, c’est très possible d’avoir une sorte de boucle de masse en stéréo, certains retouches au sol par le câble.Essayez juste de simuler la terre à partir de l’ampli droit et à gauche à peine avec signal, pas de terrain attenant.

[@toff5812]

@@viocaia merci pour vôtre réponse, comme je ne comprend pas l'anglais je n'ai pas su décrypter la vidéo, c'est vrai que je n'ai pas encore essayer de faire fonctionner les deux modules en mono, juste 1 pour l'instant , je vais éssayer ça en premier car je ne connais pas énormément quand il faut faire de lélectronique pure en plus la stéréo n'est pas indispensable pour ce que je fait avec, sinon j'ai acheter celle ci aussi www.badals.com/en/amplifiers-preamps/556312-556312.html je n'ai eu aucun problème avec et le branchement était pareil, "une alimentation pour deux carte"

[@viocaia]

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[@CavadHP]

Which 58 Volts Should Be Connected Here? and Ground For what, if vcc- and vcc+

[@viocaia]

IT is a differential 58V DC, means ground and two symmetric +58V and -58V related to ground. Measuring from +to- it should be 116V DC

[@CavadHP]

Is it okay if I don't connect anything to Ground?

[@viocaia]

@@CavadHP Of course not! You must to have ground and two symmetric voltages. Check the internet about...

[@CavadHP]

Please tell me vcc+ and vcc- (I will connect 75 volts) What should I connect to ground after connecting 75 volts?

[@viocaia]

@@CavadHP Please check this video , try to understand the principle kzbin.info/www/bejne/oauve4Krmb2LlbM

[@emanuelwillian1394]

bro, how you control the vol? you use your pc ou smartphone?

[@viocaia]

Yep, by the output volume from laptop or any other audio source.Also there is a gain control by switching different contacts at audio in of the kit.

[@leandrovinteres7851]

@@viocaia are you refering to the small trimpot near the input connector?

[@viocaia]

@@leandrovinteres7851 P1 trimmer is for self oscillating adjustment, got nothing to do with input sensibility, which BTW is very low 1.5v, so if you can't match from a mixer or any other audio capable of 1.5v you need a preamp.Also you may need an osciloscope for adjusting the self oscillating freq to 400KHz.I didn't know that when I tested, so it's very possible this amplifier didn't perform because a bad oscillating frequnecy..I don't have'em anymore so I can't check if is treu, but you may try and let us know.

[@viocaia]

I had another kit , smaller with a kind of switch for sensibility and gain, I made a confusion with this one...IRS2092 500W doesn't have any volume or gain control.

[@viocaia]

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[@ricardovargas7815]

minuto 4:50 porque sale humo del conector de la fuente de poder

[@viocaia]

I don't know, very possible auto oscillation or a parasite oscillation from the power supply.

[@viocaia]

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[@justinmurphy2227]

Every time you touch those together or you touch them with your finger you're creating a dead short! Nothing wrong with the amplifier. You're lucky you didn't get a little burn, but if you did, maybe you would have quit shorting the amp out......

[@viocaia]

Very possible but I'm not the only facing same behavior

[@viocaia]

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[@josepeixoto3715]

no sound comes out of it...

[@viocaia]

Please read the comments..you got all the info you need

[@fredwester5705]

watched your video, and I got exact same problems.. smoking resistor. and if I connected a dummy of 4 ohm without any input, the coils are getting very hot, 80 degrees celcius...The design of this amplifier is very bad. It oscillates as soon you put any input or output on it. I used 2 of these amps and a 1Kw 2x65 volts psu.. I managed to get around 400watts at 4 ohm out of them after a lot of effort...I would not recomend these modules.

[@viocaia]

Nice to let us know! I just give up!

[@viocaia]

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[@solehudinrasyid1752]

Om seep sabaraha ngarakit sareng box na?

[@viocaia]

Sorry but english please...

[@selalumerindu6487]

Wkwk maneh na te ngarti kang

[@viocaia]

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[@apc2729]

You need to give 1.2 volt ac RMS to it

[@viocaia]

I got it! Thank you!

[@Somesh-Ji]

Hey Suggestion !!! You have just smoked that 10 ohm SMD resistant at output, that was the part of Zobel Network of your amplifier.... You shouldn't switch on this Amplifier without speakers connected. You may change that resistance with some higher wattage value too... That was a nice video to watch

[@viocaia]

I did that! but here is the never ending question about egg and chicken..If I don't turn on , I don't blow the resistance..If I did and blow ...well..something wrong..I just quit the project, it was just for fun!

[@viocaia]

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[@naidesouza1558]

Please link saite of fonte

[@viocaia]

What you mean?

[@naidesouza1558]

@@viocaia I would like to know where you bought the source that connects the amplifier IRS2092 500W.

[@viocaia]

@@naidesouza1558 it was a special request for a supplier in China, I don't have the link anymore, but give a try for SMPS power supply and for sure you'll find one..a little bit expensive 'cause they have to tailor to your needs.

[@onyony1154]

Dupa ce site le ai luat ,si cat a costat?

[@viocaia]

ALiExpress..nu mai stiu sigur, nu gasesc comanda, dar imi amintesc SMPS a costat in jur de 55USD+vama iar amplificatoarele, ca ua fost 2 buc vreo 30USD..

[@onyony1154]

Se merita asa au putere ,ma interesa pentru doi basii de 18 inch!

[@viocaia]

@@onyony1154 nu prea...sint instabile, auto oscileaza si nu prea scot cit zic ei...sincer as merge pe altceva..

[@onyony1154]

@@viocaia Am inteles ,multumesc frumos!

[@andrewrexhalina4006]

Why smoking?because 10ohms is a protect resistor..put some resistor in the input..

[@viocaia]

right, it's a part of filter, I put a bigger one, like watts and an extra capacitor,but still not the results I expected.I just quit the project but I'll make one my self soon.Class D with a proper board design is ok.

[@viocaia]

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[@emansulaeman1761]

To 2 ohm?

[@viocaia]

I'm not tested with 2ohms, I'm afraid it's even worst

[@viocaia]

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[@keylareis9754]

4:46 que paso ahí? What happened? Hubo humo.!! there was smoke. What? 🤔 Por qué? 🤔

[@viocaia]

I think it was auto oscillation of some kind, bad output filter and to high voltage SMPS..but check the comments, it looks some some people have fixed...

[@viocaia]

You know that joke! All electronics are running by smoke.When the smoke is getting out, the parts are dying!

[@keylareis9754]

@@viocaia So I'm going to read the comments above

[@viocaia]

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[@JadeB628]

it seems like these types of amp boards can only be useful for someone like you with electrical knowledge. otherwise, it would useless for the average person. and that's exactly what I wanted to know..

[@viocaia]

It can be use there are a lot of nice fixings, just follow the comments here.But if you want it to work out of the box...no way!

[@JadeB628]

@@viocaia that same board is sold on Amazon for 32$.. BUT. as soon as I saw the resistor smoking and you had to replace it. made think this might not be such a good deal. aside from the fact that wouldn't know what power supply to buy for that board. I don't know how to calculate the power supply need for any of these subwoofer boards. I have 4 car subwoofers.(at home) each one with 200 watts RMS. I have an old but powerful Onkyo receiver. but just doesn't have the power to drive these subs. if you can help would greatly appreciate it. Thanks a bunch.

[@viocaia]

@@JadeB628 Not more than 2x65V DC and around 600W, this is a double power supply with 2 voltages, differential +-, there are so called SMPS power supplies light and easy to install.You can give a try , will cost maybe 40USD.

[@JadeB628]

@@viocaia I'm willing to take your advice. are we talking about the same 500-watt board? if so. there endless confusing power supply's on amazon. or if you have a better solution to my specific need, I would be glad to look at it and buy it right now. if you can provide a specific link both to the board and the power supply I will order it now.. ( I trust your judgment) BTW I need a 220V AC to DC power supply and not 110v. thank you so much

[@JadeB628]

@@viocaia BTW. I saw that many people are using a car amp with a PC power supply. I don't know how safe it is. but I do have 2 spare PC power supplies.

[@ElshanAkhundov]

I had build stereo setup from two modules. Powering both of them with 600w -65-0-+65 power. In my case both of them enough for 2x200watt RMS 8Ohm speakers. I am using it after NE5532 based pre amp. I had measured RMS power of amplifier it is about 250 WATTs, and it is quite good for this little guy. Have some small noise with powered off pre amp, If anyone knows about input adjustable resistance , please tell me what is it for ? many thanks in advance.

[@viocaia]

Nice! Please read the comments, there a lot of nice hints.

[@ElcinSadiqov321]

Məndə almışam amma hələ quraşdırmamışam. Deyirlər dinamiklərə tok verir yandırır. Sizdə necədir işləyir?

[@liangmarkv]

Update I already figured it out my problem on my amp like this one. It's the power supply and it's was so demanding it need 8amp 60v or 65v max. just to be safe. First i use a smps power but it's wasn't good the life of the amp just end in a minute i changed it to toroidal transformer it's doesn't smoke or anything it work good. And please don't twist the potentiometer it's was the oscillation frequency adjustment not volume. It can output only 200 watts good for 12 inch speaker. Since I changed the power supply i didn't have any problem now

[@viocaia]

Nice to know, I had my doubts about using SMPS with this amplifier..

[@liangmarkv]

​@@viocaia this the video where i got the idea kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4mrlYV8eJiffJY&t sorry if its tagalog video

[@viocaia]

@@liangmarkv NIce to let us know! Please give me hand and subscribe to my channel!

[@PSoundKH]

I just to start it first and buy smps power first

[@viocaia]

yep...!

[@viocaia]

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[@bablo192]

Hii tomi

[@viocaia]

Tomi the cat! My boy...thanks!

[@viocaia]

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[@mossvalebasketballau1513]

Im glad you show the chinese 500watt class D amplifier is typically rubbish if Resistors burn up. Very poor design

[@KorAllRBare]

They're not all rubbish, most if not all Chinese manufactures are trying to better other manufactures based on much the same circuitry, ergo on eBay you may see many seemingly much the same amplifiers, but if one is a keen observer there are differences, and usually the latest models are better than previous models and perhaps even better than other merchant selling other manufacturers aging amplifier kit/s that have had hardly any revisions, mind you revisions are not the only concern as some don't need any revision at all because they got it right from the get go, ergo they are the bench mark that all other manufactures strive for..

[@viocaia]

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[@viocaia]

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[@olivertrajkovic3259]

Bonjour, êtes-vous resté en ligne 100V pendant vos test... si c'est le cas; alors vous n'aurez jamais la puissance espérée... Il faut supprimer le transformateur abaisseur... [ Excusez-moi si cela est déjà fait... si c'est le cas, jeter cette chose, et achetez plutôt un "vrai" ampli... ;) ]

[@viocaia]

Right! It was just a waisted time! Nothing compares witha AB class amplifier, but this project was just for fun!

[@viocaia]

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[@JadeB628]

Today most home audio receivers don't have enough power to drive car subwoofers. so. I think there is a LOT to learn from you, @UC8-7UfcLnjKJEkO4Vbdvd8g@UC8-7UfcLnjKJEkO4Vbdvd8g@UC8-7UfcLnjKJEkO4Vbdvd8g and since I don't have the same electrical knowledge as you. I was wondering what do you think about using a car amp to drive car subwoofers at home? the main problem seems to be choosing the right power supply for that amp. so for example, instead of using a board which is much cheaper than a car amp. but it's much safer. and easier to setup. a car amp has a lot of power. (many times more than you need) and their intended use is exactly for either full-range audio or for powering a car subwoofer at home. I would love to hear your thoughts. Thank you

[@viocaia]

Everything depends on your demands, how much power do you need, if your loudspeakers are200W rated ..each..that doesn't mean they have a lot of volume..sound ..noise! There is a factor called SPL, that reflects how loud is that cabinet, there are a lot of tutorials about that. If you think about using a car amplifier, that should be better, them are ''factory'' design , most well done with a lot of power, filters and so on, you can't compare that little board supposed 500W with a JBL 500W amplifier..no way! ALso I'm sure you can find a good bass car amplifier second hand, even free from a scrap yard something.Also consider a dedicated power amplifier like Behringer, QSC,Peavey, dedicated for driving PA loudspeakers.You'll be suprised how loud 150W of real audio power sounds! I rather save some buck for a while and buy a good profesional amplifier that will last a lifetime..not enough, get a second one! Again , don't waist your time with that board, it's just not worth it..if you count 35+45USD for board and power supply you already have half of the money for a good class AB power amplifier..check my video about RA3001, that one I bought for 150USD..and that's a beast! 2x625W on 4 ohms, even more if you push it, that's blowing your windows if you have good cabinets..or it will burn your loudspeakers in 2 minutes! How old it is, really don't matter, the sound is the same..even better the old ones! But check the tutorials around , there are a lot of nice and documented for learning about audio.

[@JadeB628]

@@viocaia I've got to hand it to you. you're an extremely talented man with a long history of music AudioFile. I watched a number of your videos and I must admit I'm impressed. not too many people on YT have the expertise and know-how of a long music background like yours. consider yourself "rear" very few on YT if any have the type of electronics and electrical background and understanding as you do. it seems like you can fix any audio equipment. ( not many can claim that) I learned a number of things from you that have real value. keep making more videos. I enjoy your awesome channel. Thank you, Viorel Caia👍👍👍

[@viocaia]

@@JadeB628 Thank you too, appreciate! Hope it helps!

[@JadeB628]

@@viocaia after looking at so many different amp I finally found one that I think will do the trick. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081RPKLJK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the price was 49$. it's 175 watts x 2. could you recommend a power supply for that amp pl? thank you..

[@viocaia]

@@JadeB628 yes ..it's ok, but you need an external power supply at least the same power like the amp..like 350W at 35V! That will cost more than the amp! keep looking...

[@flecksrandomstuff4593]

Heh, completely disagree :D I am using +/-60V and diyaudio.com forums have solution for oscillation! It works great for me as a SUB! Bass is punchy, using 10'' speaker. Also keep in mind that 500W is 10% THD!

[@viocaia]

Right,like I put some extra capacitance at the end.it can be use sonehow

[@viocaia]

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[@apc2729]

Exactly, it gives to my subwoofer 450 watt RMS with only 1% of distortion and 500 watt with 10% thd

[@user-cu9lz8xn9p]

500 ватт мощность.

[@viocaia]

No way!

[@superchimcharboi9814]

W p

[@viocaia]

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[@samverve]

500w 😂 what is the RMS output power?

[@viocaia]

I think it means musical power...or peaks, no way of 500RMS!

[@samverve]

@@viocaia Exactly!

[@michaelagbayani4961]

I think it can when using 4ohm load it can produce 500w rms.

[@dushyantchaudharymathura]

It's 500W RMS, it is produced only if you use 65v dual power supply and 4 ohm load woofer, its a mono channel board, for stereo, you would need 2 boards and can sync the frequencies using the presets available on board.

[@KorAllRBare]

@@viocaia Actually If your amplifier is setup properly with the right input and the right load "speakers impedance" and more importantly the right power supply, or and correct oscillator frequency or "reference wave form" 500Wrms peak is quite possible, and that's because of the Class D's efficiency to handle the volts and current limited only by the output Mosfets and the Power Supply. For your amplify to out put 500Wrms continuous it would need at least a 300VA 50-0-50 Toroidal Transformer feeding a 35 amp bridge rectifier, followed by a bank of High voltage capacitors storing enough energy so that when demand commands it, the energy is there for it, Be sure though you are using the correct Zener Diodes and resistors on your amplifier module to reign the beasts natural tendency to output more than it should, if you don't the beast just may attempt to out put way more than the out put Mosfet's can handle, and luckily a sacrificial resistor took the brunt of it, when you touched the input like you did, which BTW is proof how powerful these amps are..

[@PNAUDIO]

IRS 2092 w akcji ;) kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4eXo3-Jh6minrs

[@viocaia]

Nice ! I was not succeed..

[@PNAUDIO]

@@viocaia It's a pity because I work well;)

[@user-qd5bf1sm8m]

А можно на русский перевести ?

[@viocaia]

Извините, но я не могу говорить по-русски.

[@user-qd5bf1sm8m]

@@viocaia а вот схему как к чему подключить ? Заказал такой же , не не знаю как подключить

[@user-qd5bf1sm8m]

А что вот за 1 деталь ?

[@viocaia]

@@user-qd5bf1sm8m это очень просто, просто следуйте инструкциям на доске

[@user-qd5bf1sm8m]

@@viocaia на какой доске ?

[@rdxtv1929]

It's not a good practice to tap any amplifier inputs without any controller or a potentiometer. It's a big NO.

[@viocaia]

Right! But this specific one have 1.5v in so you need a lot of signal to make it run!Also there is 10K resistor parallel with the ground, just in case..

[@viocaia]

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[@toff5812]

salut , j'ai moi même éssayé le module classD que tu as chez toi , je n'ais pas été satisfait alors j'ai voulu essayé un autre et je suis tombé sur celui ci www.aliexpress.com/item/4000150333915.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.47234c4dHrxxxF pour moi il sonne beaucoup mieux!! mais peut être que celui que tu test sonnera mieux avec le filtre basse

[@viocaia]

Hey! It's looking like with lower voltage like +-50 and tweaking frequency like 400Kz is working..but I stopped experimenting with it long ago.This module you showed is interesting, please let us know how is working and if is worthing the money...Merci!! be safe!!

[@toff5812]

@@viocaia il fonctionne très bien, moi j'ai branché deux module sur la même alimentation de 60V, tout est dans un petit boitier avec bornier pour les speaker et RCA pour l'entrée du signal j'amplifie deux subwoofer pioneer de 12" 300W le son est bien rond pas de saturation , c'est pour cela que je vous ai fait voir ce module, je vous envoie une photo de mon montage un peu plus tard

[@viocaia]

@@toff5812 I'll translate for the others...''it works very well, I plugged two modules on the same 60V power supply, everything is in a small box with terminal block for speaker and RCA for signal input I amplify two pioneer 12 "300W subwoofer sound is well round no saturation, that's why I made you see this module, I send you a photo of my montage a little later'' Nice job!!!! I'll buy one my self as soon as this quarantine relax..

[@viocaia]

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[@mossvalebasketballau1513]

I would return such rubbish back to China & tell them they have no idea what they are doing & demand your money back. What you pay for is what you get, pathetic designed electronics. I wish they would stop making rubbish. Nice tutorial Im glad you showed it.

[@viocaia]

I think small companies just grab any experimental projects from hobbies around Internet, make a PCB and saIe for a little profit.No patents, no copyrights. wasted times and money for us.

[@cinilaknedalm]

Danz Market, Virel forgot to use a pre-amp. Most high power amplifiers need one. These chinese amps can be difficult to use and configure, but to get the same power from a quality brand amp you're looking at paying 5-20 times more. I used these cheap chinese amps for years, and they are incredible value for money... if you know what you're doing. They are certanly not for people who just wanna plug them in and play music. It takes a little tehnical know how. And some luck since the components can fail because they are cheap, or not used properly.

[@viocaia]

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