DON'T Make These Common Oil Change Mistakes With Your Car!!

[@michaelm4569]

One major issue that was never mentioned was removing the oil filler cap beforehand. Doing this lets atmospheric pressure aid in draining the old fluid without creating suction. I learned this in trade school 40 years ago. The theory is obvious, yet no one ever mentions it. Try it yourself, the difference in drain flow is dramatic with a more efficient and complete drainage.

[@mikethetoolman8776]

if you leave the cap on while draining, it will suck some or all of the oil from the filter sometimes which is a plus

[@rdspam]

I’d rather leave it on, slowing the initial rush, which is all over your hands and splashing out of the pan. Then loosen it once flow has started.

[@vincecarlo]

Just pull out dip stick

[@morgan79347]

Just open the fill cap or the dip stick. Just saying.

[@richardd9955]

@@dgunearthed7859 drain pan w oil filter removed, top engine oil inlet cover off. 2, put the pan outlet drain screw back into place! 3, u can pour some oil into the oil filter assembly if u choose? Always lube oil filter gasket with the engine oil with your finger tip, Just enough to make the gaskets surface look wet! Replace. 4. Point on, first off, refilling correct amount of oil per manufacturer or if it's your creation, by filling the engine with oil your getting it back into the upper parts of the engine where the oil refill inlet ìs located the lubrication cycle is attained by the engine cycle features!

[@coastalbeer]

Having done over 500 oil changes in my life, I can tell you that all that really matters, is actually doing an oil change and then doing it at least once a year or every 5000 miles. Thats it! You Don't need to warm up the oil, you drain it for 30 minutes and you are good. It it makes you feel good to pour some oil into the filter, go ahead! I am all about feeling good! It's really not necessary at all, but it feels good, so go ahead! Don't waste money on flushes. Better, start changing your oil twice a year, every six months. I do mine in the spring, then six months later. Keep it simple. Remember, fresh oil is all that matters. Expensive oil gets dirty and toxic the same as cheap oil. Change it often.

[@robertslegers257]

Interesting he is using Walmart Supertech oil and the new Fram Endurance oil filter. That pre filling the filter is A real flashpoint with some auto techs.

An excellent diagnostic mechanic over hear tells us that it's just as good to use cheaper oil rather than the real expensive stuff but change it more regularly and the engine will be much better for it. He travels thousands of Mile's a year in his work van and his engine is as good as new. 🇬🇧

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Couldn’t agree more!

[@DanielJohnson-ec8rk]

Oils are not created equal and 1 year on any oil is too long

[@michaelhermena1185]

You have done 500 oil changes.. two oil changes per year.. which means that you spent 250 years doing oil changes 😂

[@jimmybrown8375]

Your points were fine & correct except for one. Overfilling the crankcase will not cause high oil pressure. Crankcase pressure may climb a bit but a proper working PCV system will compensate. Biggest problem would be the crankshaft will slap the oil causing aeration. Then oil can't lube engine properly.

[@CurlyFromTheSwirly]

He's saying overfilling oil can damage different things in the engine, which has happened to people (both those who did it themselves and didn't know or brought it to a place that was worthless).

[@DBrisky37]

Robs a lot of horsepower too. Motor oil geek just did a video showing massive HP loss on overfilling with oil

[@ranger178]

yeah, a tiny bit of extra won't matter it is only if you put a lot of extra oil in that you would have problems.

[@lasttrimestr49califos89]

Yes, yes, yes. 🎉

[@scrambler69-xk3kv]

Been changing my own oil since 1970. I always change it when I return home from a trip. Just buy yourself a good pair of rubber gloves and I always use ramps. I see so many videos with people using a jack and jackstands. Ramps are so much easier and safer. And I always prefill my oil filter. There is a reason oil filters have an anti drainback valve. So your car does not get a dry start. If your oil filter is horizonal on the engine, the first thing you do is fill the new oil filter and let it sit while you drain the old oil and remove the old oil filter. By that time the oil will have migrated from the center of the new oil filter to the space between the filter media and the outside wall of the filter. You can now install it without a spill. If your car holds less than five quarts, just add a little at a time and just keep holding the jug level and look at the on bottle gauge untill you have added the required amount.

[@bobbywin9303]

After filling the filter with oil and letting it sit, do you have to add any more oil once the oil has moved to the outside wall when installing?

[@richardd9955]

@@scrambler69-xk3kv my aunt gave me a 1971 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 454, at 14 never knew or had knowledge of motor oil and it's function gas n go! The 454 was rebuilt with my summer L.A. City Junior Lifeguard job! Rebuild was total $400-$500.00, yes a blessing can be found and possibly put in my oath when I didn't know God and Jesus/Yeshua is there for us all along!

[@sriavula]

i plan on using jack and stands to get my car up and then put the ramps under as well jack stands

[@MinionAtTheGate]

This guy got the title correct at least... If you are changing the oil to maximize engine life then here's the most important rules to follow: 1. always make sure the vehicle is level when you drain the oil. Pulling the front up onto ramps is the way to ensure your oil change is meaningless. Most all drain plugs are not at the very back of the oil pan and if you put your car at an angle all the sediment in the oil, sludge and fine metal particles that are doing all the damage and why you need to change the oil in the first place, will just sit in the part of the pan that is lower than the drain hole and not flow out with the oil. Keep it level. 2. always adhere to the mileage requirements listed for your vehicle and engine combination listed by the manufacturer. Only exemption from this is if you drive less than 3k miles per year then in most cases you can just change the oil once a year. If you drive 30k a year you should be changing it once every month or two. Consult your manual. Always change the oil by the specified mileage interval. 3. hot oil is hazardous to the human body. not just because of potential burns but it is also absorbed into the skin more readily than room temperature oil. 4. you don't have to fill the filter - it does nothing to prolong the life of your engine. most cars don't even have oil filters that are perfectly perpendicular and many are almost horizontal so don't worry over something that is a made up requirement. if the oil filter needed to be prefilled your manual and your engine compartment would state so in a very noticeable warning with huge lettering. 5. On newer vehicles with direct injection make sure you change the oil on time and maybe even consider adding an oil catch can. on older vehicles made before the year 2000 don't worry about it. These are the oil change rules I use. My 2007 Mustang GT does triple digits on an almost daily basis and sometimes has been known to kick in the rev limiter and 17 years later it still roars like new. Oh, and I use the manufacturer brand and grade oil filter and oil that my vehicles came with and are recommended in the manuals - not anything less and not anything more.

[@sergiyg2537]

The first mistake is having an Apple watch on your wrist when changing oil.

[@Noneofyourfknbizness]

😂

[@geraldscott4302]

Having an Apple watch is a mistake PERIOD. Having an Apple ANYTHING is a mistake.

[@user-ml8dm9fz6l]

lotta knock offs look like an Apple Watch like the Wyze watch which only costs $25

[@om6060]

😂

[@thabogeorgenkuna631]

😂

[@johnnyo5915]

When my two sons were young I was working 50+ hours a week, travelling etc. so I did not get to spend as much quality time with them as I would have liked. One thing I taught them both was how to do a proper oil change. They are 30 now drive older Hondas and Toyotas and do all of their own routine maintenance--using most of the info shared here. Thanks GREAT video!😎

[@geraldscott4302]

I am a retired lifelong professional mechanic. I recommend having the engine FULLY warmed up before changing the oil. Let it run for at least 10 minutes. That not only warms up the oil, but helps mix all the contaminates in with the oil so they will drain out. If you need to, wear gloves. Nothing should be really hot, other than the exhaust system, and the actual oil. As far as filling the new filter with oil, you can do that IF the filter is vertical. But my Mercury Grand Marquis has a horizontal oil filter, and you really can't fill it with oil. I have owned it since new, it has 381,000 miles on it, and I have changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles without putting oil in the filter. It still runs like new. As long as the oil pump does not loose prime, and there is no reason it should just doing an oil change, it will be fine. The new filter will fill up in just a couple of seconds. Remember you have just run the engine, so everything inside is coated with oil. Yes, you need to put oil on the gasket on the new filter before installing it. Use new oil, not the old stuff you drained out. And make sure the flange where the filter goes is spotlessly clean. I use spray brake cleaner to clean it. YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED TO SNUG UP THE FILTER MORE THAN HAND TIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THAT IS SUPER IMPORTANT. I have seen too many engines where the filter came loose and all the oil drained out, causing engine damage. Tighten the filter hand tight, then use either a strap wrench or a socket that fits over the end of the filter to snug it up beyond just hand tight. DO NOT use any type of wrench that can crush the filter. Those are fine for removing an old filter that is going to be thrown away. But DO NOT use them to install a new filter. I do it by feel. Otherwise, tighten the filter as tight as you can with your hand (with no oil on your hand or the filter), take a sharpie and make a mark on the end of the filter, then, using a filter wrench, tighten it so that mark moves about 2 inches. I have NEVER had a problem removing a filter that I installed. DON'T USE FRAM FILTERS!!!!!! They are garbage. I personally destroyed an engine with one. I put it on, filled the engine with oil, and started it up. The oil pressure came up fine. I left the engine running to go get something, and when I got back, the engine had stopped running. Turned out the FRAM filter had come apart inside and plugged up, cutting off the oil supply to the engine, and the engine was seized up solid. We cut the filter open and found what had happened. STAY AWAY FROM FRAM FILTERS. I mostly use Wix, but most any brand besides FRAM is usually ok. You should know how much oil your engine holds. If you don't, FIND OUT. The 4.6L 2 valve engine in my Mercury Grand Marquis holds 6 quarts. Many engines hold 5 quarts. Check your service manual and find out what it is supposed to hold, and pour in the right amount. The level should be at the upper level on the dipstick. If the dipstick has a crosshatch area, the level should be at the top of that. Not higher, not lower. Putting too much oil in an engine will NOT affect the oil pressure. What it will do, if the level is high enough, is allow the crankshaft to hit the oil in the oil pan when the engine is running, throwing it all over the place. This can cause oil starvation. It will also usually have a serious effect on the way the engine is running, due to the drag on the crankshaft hitting the oil in the pan. I agree, don't check your oil level when parked on a steep hill. But a few degrees will make no difference. My driveway has about a 5 degree incline, and it makes no difference in the oil level reading on the dipstick.

[@davidellis7081]

@geraldscott4302 You got a bad filter, that happened to be a Fram. I've used Fram filters all of my adult life (even as a teen in the 70s) and have never had an issue. (You should be a tech writer. I hear some get paid by the word count, and you'd do well!)

[@solardiver7]

Your advice on hot oil containing contaminants is spot on as are your other comments.

[@linhchau9788]

I disagree with you using Fram filter. Been using Fram for over 25 years on my toyota, honda, lexus never had any issues with my engine

[@anonymike8280]

Many people do not have a place to work where it is possible for them to easily work on a hot engine. If the oil is warm when you drain it, that's good enough. I call trash on people who create unnecessarily complicated protocols. What these can do is deter people from doing anything at all. If someone maintains a short oil change interval, they don't have to worry about contaminants. My argument is pretty simple. The engine ran with the old oil in it. If you leave a little behind, no harm in it. You can never get it all out anyway. For another thing. it is not necessary to have the oil at the full mark. It only has to be at or above the add line. My vehicle's engine has an oil capacity of 3.8 quarts. When I change the oil, I try to get a little above halfway between add and full. I change the oil at 2800 miles and I have to add only if I start below the level I want. When I have to add, I add about a cup. The advantage of being at the full line is that you might get a little more cooling from the oil. Maybe. You do not get better lubrication. If someone drives at high RMPs and goes screaming around corners and turns, maybe they'd better keep it at the full line though. I have used Fram filters, but I am Fram adverse. I use Supertech filters and will continue to do so as long as they are available for my engine. Low-end and no-name filters are good for 5000 miles and no more.

[@sriavula]

i use fram 6017A for my motorcycle been using them for 5k miles, no issues at all, and also in terms of overfilling, if its a tad bit over thats fine right? like 0.1 or 0.2 quarts

[@Jeffrey-t8g]

Tip for using Havoline boxed motor oil, the bag inside uses a standard gallon jug thread, and they sell an adapter with a shut off and a thick clear hose to pour in the engine spill free. Since there's six quarts, I keep a clean empty oil bottle to drain off 1 qt. so don't overfill if it takes 5 qts. and keep the extra in trunk to top off when checking oil.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Whoa awesome!

[@tssci6774]

Good video. Did you know in modern engines, 10-20% of old oil remains in an engine. I would agree to a point about warming the engine oil if you live in very cold climate. At normal ambient temps, it will not improve oil removal. Draining the oil after sitting for several hours achieves a better drain. I have been able to remove another 1/3-to1/2qt by letting sit. Also removing the filter first allows the oil to drain from the engine better. I park my car on ramps overnight, remove the filter, then drain first thing in the morning. I also recommend clear flood crank to refill and pressureized the engine before starting. I lived in Hawaii for 4 years, miss the weather and surf.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Good tips!

[@rossawood5075]

The overnightdrain is a recipe for disaster on certain engines, ie the 4 cylinder 2.2 and 5 cylinder 3.2 Ford Duratorque or Puma diesel engines have a variable flow oil pump, if the oil is not changed and refilled in a roughly 10 minute period the pump drains and is unable to pickup oil on restart, resultt, no oil pressure and severely damaged internals !

[@tssci6774]

@rossawood5075 it's a poor design if it can't prime itself with a full wet sump.

[@charlesjackson1700]

I used to change my oil when it was warm.. NOW I do the same thing.. I let it set overnight up on ramps.. It seems to work best and the oil filter is easier to get off.. THAT IS A BIG PLUS...😅

[@charlesbolin7207]

That sounds good for a car that holds 4 to 5 quarts of oil. My Peterbilt holds 11 1/2 gallons. Drain it cold and you will sit for a bit. Our older trucks with Series 60 Detroit Diesel engines have Lucas Heavy Duty Engine Oil Stabilizer in the oil, 2 gallons per truck and the run 15W-40. Try to drain them cold and you will be sitting for a good while waiting to drain. We don't use Lucas on the newer 10W-30 trucks because they have tighter tolerances and our manuals say not to use anything that might make the oil thicker.

[@Funkydood]

You forgot to include the fact that one should use the motor oil viscosity & type specified in the Owner’s Manual. Thanks for your video, dude!

[@HarveyWallbanger-ho2cq]

It's printed on your oil cap for convenience

[@newfie-dean5803]

@@HarveyWallbanger-ho2cqthere are usually alternative oils recommended in the manual if you live in extreme cold environments. As an example, Fords will present a viscosity table showing 5w30 for normal weather and then 0W30 if you live in an extreme cold environment with the 0W30 shown as applicable for normal weather too.

[@neolerades2987]

@@HarveyWallbanger-ho2cq In America maybe, not in the EU, on all oil caps I only have the symbol of the oil can, no other text.

[@kupas2]

manufacturer can be wrong. best to verify it yourself, to get the most efficient oil viscosity.

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

Yes, the manufacturer only wants your vehicle to exceed the warranty mileage!! They would love to sell you a new engine at your expense.

[@charlesbolin7207]

I drive semi trucks for a living and I'm one of the company mechanics. I do all the PM services on our Peterbilt 579s. They are equipped with EPA 17 Paccar MX-13 engines. Modern vehicles have really tight tolerances, screwing up an oil change can cost you your warranty. That being said the most minor of things on a Preventative Maintenance Service (oil change) can cost you a lot of money so here are some real tips from a real mechanic that might cost you more money in the short run but save you a lot in the long run. 1. NEVER PRE FILL THE OIL FILTER UNLESS THE SERVICE MANUAL SPECIFICALLY CALLS FOR IT. This is really bad because the oil you pour in the center of the filter has not passed through the filter and while brand new oil should be clean, sometimes it can be contaminated with microscopic impunities from the refinery and while it may not instantly destroy your engine, over multiple oil changes it will have a cumulative effect slowly reducing the life of your engine. Engines that require a prefilled oil filter are typically found on heavy equipment, hold at least a quart of oil in the filter itself and the filter will come with a plug for the center hole as well as a spout to fill it from the side holes so the oil is filtered. 2. All oil is not the same, different brands have different additives and some additives may not be compatible with the seals in your engine. A specific brand is not important. What is important is checking the bottle you are buying and making sure it matches the manufacturer specification listed in your owners manual. Some companies have actual specification numbers, others go buy API numbers and some use ASTM. Don't always go by your manual, call your local dealership because sometimes after a vehicle has been out for a while the engine manufacturer may change oil standards if a problem becomes apparent with the oil they recommended, they will change oil recommendations and publish a "Technical Service Bulletin". IMPORTANT: DO NOT MIX OIL BRANDS OR MIX BASE OIL WITH SYNTHETIC. Different oil brands put different additives in their oil. Two different oil brands made to the same standard can have incompatible additives and cause engine damage when mixed. Synthetic oil blends usually have additives in them to prevent the base oil from foaming or gelling whine mixed around in the engine. If you buy a quart of synthetic oil and dump it in a vehicle filled with base oil, it won't have the additives prevent foaming or gelling. Finally some synthetic oils are made from ester oils and they can cause incompatible seals in older engines to swell or break down. 3. Not all oil filters are the same. Just because a filter is the right size and has the right thread doesn't mean it's the right filter. Some filters have bypass valves needed in high performance applications where oil pressure has to rise sharply during hard acceleration or when taking off under heavy load. Other applications prohibit a bypass valve. Different filters have different flow rates and micron ratings. When picking the right filter you want to check your owners manual AND verify with your dealership that the engine manufacturer has not published any technical service bulletins changing the filter specification. Make sure the oil filter you use has a date of manufacture on it also known as a born on date. DO NOT BUY FILTERS ONLINE. Several truck operators ordered Fleetguard filters on online marketplaces that turned out to be counterfeit. Using a knock off filter voids the engine warranty if damage occurs due to improper filtration. Always buy your filters from a reputable name brand store or a dealership, never from a seller in an online marketplace. 4. When installing the new filter, make sure the rubber gasket from the old filter came off with the old filter. If the rubber gasket from the old filter is stuck to the filter housing and you put on the new filter, the gasket from the new filter will not seal right and it will leak. When you've insured the surface the oil filter seal will make contact with is clean, lube the oil filter seal by rubbing a drop of oil over it with your finger, screw it in until it makes contact then tighten it about 1/8 turn. You don't want it over tightened but you also don't want it to come loose, leak or fall off. IMPORTANT IF YOU LIVE IN CALIFORNIA: Puncture the side of the oil filter with a screwdriver while holding it over the container you drained your oil into to drain the filter. In California oil filters that have not been crushed or drained are considered "Hazardous Waste" and must be disposed of properly. Companies like Walmart and O'Reilly's Auto Parts simply take all oil filters for disposal and eat the extra cost. Smart auto shops know disposing of a drum of drained oil filters is around $70, disposing a drum of undrained filters is more around $300, at least that's what it was when I was working for a disposal company. 5. When you go to put your oil plug back in change the rubber gasket or washer on it, this should always be changed. Some high end vehicles don't use a replaceable gasket and instead recommend replacing the plug. Check the vehicle service manual or call your dealership if you're unsure. Quick drain plugs like the ones Paccar uses twist and lock into place without much effort and you will know they are secure without any torquing. If it's a bolt style plug check your owners manual for the proper torquing force and use a torque wrench. Losing an oil plug while going down the road will cost you thousands more than a $70 torque wrench don't risk it. 6. Double check your oil capacity, viscosity and manufacturer specification before filling. Fill it to half capacity, then stop, look under your vehicle and check the drain plug for leaks. Then fill until your 1 quart less than full, check your dipstick, if it's less than full slowly add oil and check until full. Then start the vehicle and let it idle for one full minute while checking the filter for leaks. After a minute stop the engine, wait 5 minutes, check the oil again and top off as needed. 7. Underneath most vehicles on various joints on the suspension, steering column, drag link, pitman arm, tie rod ends, axel, kingpins, transmission bell housing, U joints, drive shaft or other locations varying based upon your vehicle make, suspension, steering system and power train configuration are these little nipples called a "grease zerk". They are for attaching a grease gun and lubricating various joints and fittings. Make sure you check the service manual and grease every single one. Their location and grease specification usually is NOT in the owners manual or maintenance log. Dealerships, Auto shops and lube shops as well as Walmart usually grease all of these every time you get an oil change. They have computer software that tells them which ones need grease at what mileage and what grease to use. Failure to grease these zeks regularly (usually every oil change) will result in premature failure of the joint, ball socket, bearing or other moving part the grease is meant to lubricate resulting in a tow and costly repairs. All greases are not the same and they are not all compatible with each other. Do not use calcium sulfonate grease on applications that do not call for it as it can form a corrosive compound when mixed with some lithium grease even if it's just residue. I can not stress how important using the proper type and amount of grease is. I've seen dust boots destroyed by too much grease, I've seen control arms and tie rod ends pop off their sockets sending vehicles out of control from not being greased and I've seen cross shafts and throw out bearings destroyed on semi truck transmissions from using the wrong grease. To summarize if you have read this whole lecture, when you pay a shop to change your oil, you are paying for their expertise, insurance and warranty. You are paying them $40 to $120 so that if something is missed or an incompatible filter or oil is used or grease zerks are not greased or an oil plug falls out, their insurance is paying for the thousands of dollars to fix your car. Remember if you bring a new car into a dealership with internal engine damage, the first thing they are going to do is loosen the oil drain plug and get a sample of the oil to send for testing. The next thing they are going to do is check your oil filter. Wrong oil or wrong filter means the damage won't be covered by warranty. In closing I'd like to say an oil change is never as simple as it sounds and if you don't know what your vehicle specifically calls for at every oil change or PM Service, don't do it yourself. Doing your own oil change might save you a few dollars but a small mistake can cost you thousands in repairs on a vehicle you are still paying for. Paying a shop a few extra bucks can save you thousands. Oh and one more thing, Do not buy cheap oil or store brand oil. Lookup the Dollar General Motor Oil class action lawsuit to know why. Buying cheap oil is the FASTEST AND DUMBEST WAY TO MAKE SAVING A FEW DOLLARS COST YOU THOUSANDS in my opinion.

[@joemarchand8313]

All very good points. Recently, I started to do all of the oil changes on my 2 vehicles. My # 1 motivating factor is the complete lack of work ethics and morals that are far too common and widespread these days. I've had my oil changed at a reputable, reliable shop for years....until they weren't anymore. Double gasketed filter, no new crush washer, etc. I'm sure you're aware of the horror stories (oil change without changing the filter, not actually changing the oil, filling it with who knows what kind of oil, etc.) Most shops are set up intentionally so that the customer cannot see the work (supposedly) being performed. No thanks...I'll learn what I need to learn and do it myself. I trust no one with my vehicles anymore.

[@charlesbolin7207]

@@joemarchand8313 I just changed the oil in my 1998 Mustang GT. I just bought it. After going through CarFAX (thank you progressive for free CarFAX Car Care with my policy) I saw the maintenance records. I won't say the shop who's sticker was on the windshield indicating who did the last oil change but they definitely put the wrong oil filter on it. I ran the part number through the filter manufacturers web site and it showed this filter was definitely not recommended for this car because no anti drain valve or bypass valve and the filter was not the right flow or capacity. It was half the size of the Motorcraft I put on it. The filter manufacturer does make a filter for this car but it definitely wasn't the one on it. The previous owner also put on nice rims with racing tires, his dumbass didn't check the steer tires before rotating them, they are directional so I have to fix that too. Despite all of this I will still pay a shop to do oil and fluid changes and differential services for the same reason large trucking companies outsource it. If I screw up then I have to replace the engine. If they screw up I file a claim with their insurance.

[@justsmitty1709]

Oil standards are printed on all motor oil containers regardless of the cost of the oil.

[@charlesbolin7207]

@@justsmitty1709 the API standards are, the vehicle manufacturer specifications are not always printed on the bottle. Try finding Ford WSS-M2C153-G printed on an oil bottle. Just because an oil meets the API standards for motor oil doesn't mean it has the additives recommended by the manufacturer.

[@justsmitty1709]

@charlesbolin7207 That is correct. I am assuming one would know what oil type they needed. Love your example of oil ....... Are you a Ford tech?

[@billbright1755]

Make sure the car is supported well. If you are crushed under it oil is the least of your worries.

[@louofm1]

I agree. If you jack it, use both the jack and jack stands to support it. Best to have a backup just.in case the little 10 cent O ring in your jack.fails.or.if a jack stand tips. Also regardless if you use ramps or a.jack, chuck the rear wheels so it.doesnt.roll back or forward

[@joemarchand8313]

@@louofm1 I use neither. I just barely have enough room to change the oil in my SUV and my truck without ramps or a jack. Safer, too.

[@luvpants2012]

I drive over a curb on my street just enough clearance and no crushing lol.

[@louofm1]

@@luvpants2012 I've done this before. Not a bad idea. Still remember nto chuck those wheel in back

[@luvpants2012]

@@louofm1 good idea thanks, I always engage parking brake too

[@DavidSimpsonSpecialForces]

There's nothing wrong with priming the filter, but it's not really needed. Moreover, you really don't need to worry about a dry start after changing an oil filter unless the car has been sitting a long time; there will be enough oil left coating the internals for that brief period of time before oil is recirculated. I have a Toyota Tacoma with 324,000 miles on her and never once primed the filter!

[@Methodical2]

I've torn down and rebuilt the motor in my 95 Cobra with 135k miles and agree with what you say. I never ever prefilled the oil filter and the motor was in pristine condition when I rebuilt it. Oh, the rebuild was not because there was an issue with the motor; it was to build it stronger with forged parts for the power.

[@realdealholyfield-dx3bf]

It's a Toyota that's why lol

[@no2thenwo737]

Well, I've seen many engines where the filter is at the top of the engine mounted upside down, so I believe you're correct.

[@lordsenzulu8754]

True,infact some oil filters face downward, how can You prime such?🤷‍♂️

[@irisbaez1972]

@@lordsenzulu8754 Make it wet man. Everything need a little oil; don't you know that? what planet are you?

[@gordonenquist36]

You may overlooked this step which is to wipe clean the filter mating surface on the motor block. Just in case some dirt or debris gets up there since most of us do our oil changes are done out of doors.

[@PainterD54]

Yes, and by all means, DON'T use a Fram filter on ANYTHING> They are the worst you can buy.

[@AnthonySlavin]

Yes that is a very good point mate, also making sure that the old oil filter oring seal isn't still stuck to the bottom of it. I've seen this happen a few times as well and makes quite a lovely mess along the road and engine bay because it hasn't sealed properly. It's always smart to wipe it regardless to ensure it's mating surface is clean and free of foreign debris. You're spot on.👌

[@walterwhite1]

@@PainterD54why is that

[@hypr1]

@@walterwhite1 Just use OEM. It's only like 3 dollars more expensive and is what your car was designed to work with.

[@sameold5050]

​@@PainterD54 Nothing wrong with Fram Ultra.

[@TexasScout]

Regarding tightening your oil filter, most filters used to say on there “tighten three-quarter turn after making contact“. I haven’t seen that on a filter in a long time

[@carlovanrijk4039]

TexasScout yeah I’m thinking that’s an industry standard…some filters still have this on their outside canister.

[@waynepile5084]

Great video. All you say makes good sense. Tighten the oil filter until the gasket touches the block. Then, tighten 3/4 to 1 turn to complete installation. This worked for me when i used to change the oil in my vehicle.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Great tip!

[@carlovanrijk4039]

@@BudgetMechanicHawaiiit is said not to use an oil filter tool to PUT ON the filter. But because I have arthritis in my hands, hand-tightening the filter doesn’t do me any good. Use the tool to tighten the filter 3/4 to 1 turn after the gasket has made contact with the engine block.

[@waynepile5084]

@carlovanrijk4039 Whether you use your hand or a tool, as long as you don't overtighten the filter, is what is crucial.

[@carlovanrijk4039]

@@waynepile5084 I totally agree!

[@dougg1075]

My daily driver is a 1995 Silverado with the 305. I change my oil every first of the month and now have 436k miles . Transmission never touched mechanical wise. Motor either except stuff like water pump , distributor, plugs etc. never changed my intake gaskets either. Got to be one of the best trucks ever made:)

[@tornticket8061]

Lots of information. Delivered quickly but concisely and easy to follow. No extraneous self-centered junk about “me me me”. Well done video. Keep it up.

[@renecintronjr.2262]

I always do all that. I'm almost 67 & I've never once had anyone change the oil in any of the cars I've owned 😅. And I do use that Wal-Mart oil, with Wix filters, every 3k miles.

[@CurlyFromTheSwirly]

Walmart 🤮

[@Maurice-c6z]

Me to, that oil is as good as the fancy labeled stuff

[@anonymike8280]

If your oil change interval is 3000 miles, you can use a Supertech filter if they have one for your application. Or any low end filter. Nothing wrong with Wix but it costs more. I don't know what the vehicle is either. Some just get dirtier than others.

[@zzzmmmjjj]

I am sure that that Walmart oil is so much better than thar castrol edge fully syntetic selling here in southeast asia..

[@Keith-e5f]

I would say he's right about everything except pre-filling your filter. There's not one owner's manual out there that will tell you to do this. I've been changing oil for decades and I've never prefilled a filter and I've never had a problem. Driven Rigs up to 250,000 miles without ever prefilling a filter. It's completely unnecessary and makes it harder to know how much oil to put in the vehicle since the owner's manual calls for oil capacity with and without filter. And the fact that some filters go on completely upside down should be a clue that you don't need to prefill your filter. This is a misnomer and hogwash. Your engine can easily withstand the seconds that it takes to fill the filter. In fact it only takes about 1 second for the pump to fill the filter on modern vehicles.

[@jjsifo1]

I went to a Automotive Training Center in PA back in 1972. You are correct , @coastalbeer the important thing is to change the oil, but every single suggestion in this video is valid and helpful, I do all that in every oil change .

[@michaeljohn7398]

Over filling with oil can encourage the crankshaft big end journals to slap the oil creating an aerated mix which lowers the oil pressure and destroys the bearings.

[@georgegravette1132]

Good points. I always warm my car up to operating temperature; then by the time I jack it up and get it on stands, the engine and its oil's cooled off enough to handle without getting burned. Because my oil pan does not use a crush washer, I use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to specifications. Also. I do use a cap-style wrench to install the new filter, but only because the filter is mounted at an angle; in changing filters, my fingers get so much oil on them that I need the wrench just to grip the new filter and get it hand-tight.

[@philc.9280]

Interesting conversation. The key to what you said was "The vehicle was a European import and the oil used did not meet manufacturer specifications." I sometimes check those ratings on the back of the oil (api, sp,sn plus, sm, ilsac gf_6a, etc) that most folks ignore. I'm sure there are exceptions especially in newer European models as oil is getting thinner and thinner now. In my 40 plus years of changing oil I've never seen a ruined engine due to improper oil. My older Mercedes runs on pretty much anything. Again, one must stick with the proper manufacturer's viscosity recommendations. I just use any good brand of oil or filter that's on sale and do it every 5K miles.

[@VIC00-ir2bb]

Yes, always warm up the oil first

[@jaygrosse8365]

Great list, and I agree with every recommendation. I would add 2 more: Ensure that the old oil filter gasket and oil drain gaskets have not stuck to the engine; and a major one you did not mention is choosing an oil that is not appropriate for that engine. Avoid viscosities that are not specifically recommended in the owners manual, and by all means, avoid the non-detergent oils sold at many gas stations. The Walmart (Supertech) brand seen in this video is a good choice.

[@charlesbolin7207]

I wouldn't use Super Tech, personal preference. I have two personal one requiring synthetic the other can use either. They both get Castrol Edge. The semi truck I drive has a Paccar 2018 MX-13, it gets Chevron Delo 10W-30 full synthetic. You get what you pay for when it comes to oil. It's the one part of vehicle maintenance where saving a few bucks can cost thousands.

[@hjer731]

​@@charlesbolin7207 my engine sounded terrible on super tech.

[@NoName-is6py]

​@@charlesbolin7207I use car's branded oil (in my case Toyota).. Much cheaper and it is used in their service centres on all cars.. (I believe)..

[@charlesbolin7207]

@@NoName-is6py I don't, Toyota, Mopar, Motorcraft, ECT..... None of those companies are oil companies. They are vehicle manufacturers, they do not get the best stuff, in fact none of them even make their own engines or transmissions. They are subcontracted and assembled by a number of different companies. Car dealers want you to change cars every 3 to 5 years. I'll stick with Castrol (BP) or Valvoline or Chevron or Shell Rotella. These are all Oil companies, that's their specialty, most of their main business is lubricants and they make the oil for Ford, gm, Chrysler, Toyota, BMW ECT.... The only difference is the label on the bottle and additives inside.

[@louofm1]

For the last 25 years, ive always used either Mobil 1 or Valvoline synthetic and a quality filter. However, according to some recent oil lab testing by project farm and other professionals, it was proven that this super tech synthetic is very good oil, and even better than both Mobil 1 and Valvoline synthetic. About the only oil that is better than super tech, in the same price range is Pennzoil ultra platinum. It.will cost you about $8 more for 5 qts, which is not bad. In the last two changes I did for my and wife's car, I used super tech full synthetic

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

If you drain the oil on a cold engine then put a dry filter on there, when you start it you can feel it grinding itself. I did that once, never ever again. If it's been running and warm everything has a fresh oil film. I don't care what the "pros" say, I'm filling that filter. It certainly can't hurt. Pros don't do it because it takes time and they don't care about your car. You do. Fill your filter.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Same here, but I love the arguments it creates ;)

[@hjer731]

It absolutely helps to prefill the filter. Faster oil pressure

[@nightstorm9128]

When you warm up your oil,,Your just sending all that dirty oil back around the engine,,If you leave the engine over night all the oil will drain down to the sump,,Think of it like this,,,,,Get a glass bottle ,Quarter fill it with milk,,Now shake the bottle,,The whole sides of the bottle are now covered in a film of milk,,It will take hours for that film to run back down the bottle,,,Your engine is like this,,,Change your oil cold,,You'll get all of the oil out ,,it will take only 10 mins more than when it's hot,,

[@michaeltammaro482]

It makes sense but someone will make sense as well legitimizing the engine running prior to an oil change. I feel like a f'ing empty bottle in the middle of the ocean tossed about by the waves.

[@JustinWallace-ky9dm]

@@donausmus4281 You need to be careful with some cars, we had an issue with a Volvo that had been sat draining for a couple of hours as someone had forgotten to order the oil, once finally refilled it ran like a sack of crap as the hydraulic tappets had drained also, I also think it’s either the Ford Ranger or the VW Amarok that really doesn’t do well if the oil is drained for too long, they’ve been known to blow up…

[@thomastaylor1644]

Bullshit

[@madcat4563]

​@JustinWallace-ky9dm Ford ranger without the engine capacity on the triangle thing near the door are ones you should do an oil change on in 30 minutes; otherwise, it has oil starvation issues or something strange.

[@dannybryant6873]

The oil filter only gets tighter with time & temperature cycling. If you hand tighten it like crazy your hand won't be able to remove it later. The rubber gasket makes the seal. Don't over tighten it.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Got it thanks

[@charlesbolin7207]

I've seen semi truck oil filters loosen and come off from not being tight enough. 1/8 turn is more than enough. Use filters with hexagon texture or a chain wrench to get them off if too tight. Never had an issue with an 1/8th turn being too tight.

[@davidk3729]

A pal had a filter fall off causing the engine to rattle and fail. He had put it on hand tight as recommended. I use the filter wrench off and on.

[@WilliamMurphy-b6v]

​@davidk3729 Your pal had a great story to cover him or herself. Probably was not willing to add that quarter turn after the oil filter seemed snug. Snug, in itself, is not enough. That added partial twist is essential and not just a recommendation.

[@avirgilio71]

I agree, changing when oil is warm is ideal, but doing it when it's cold is not exactly a "mistake". In my classic, I change it cold before first start up in spring after it's been sitting for 5 months. It's already on the lift so why would I bring it down off the lift, start it up totally dry, only to send contaminated oil through the drive train and then lift it up again to drain it warm??? It works for me

[@minot.8931]

Agreed. Warming the oil up just makes the drain quicker, not more thorough. I drain mine warm though so that by the time I’ve replaced the filter (dry) the sump bolt can go back in and I can refill with the new oil.

[@fredcloud9668]

Heat the engine up before draining the oil. This suspends any contaminants in the oil.

[@dgunearthed7859]

Ding ding ding....thats what I learned from Lake Speed Jr.

[@lloydchristmas1086]

He literally says that in the beginning.

[@dgunearthed7859]

@@lloydchristmas1086 noyce! Lol

[@bigedslobotomy]

The “filling your oil filter before installing it” thing is a hotly debated idea on the internet. Of course, there is this guy’s view that it’s necessary. There are others that point out that if you do this, you must be METICULOUS about not allowing the smallest particle to get into the oil before screwing it back in place. If there is even the tiniest speck of dust or dirt, it will immediately circulate through the engine (as it will be post-oil filter) and modern cars with variable valve timing do NOT like that!

[@charlesbolin7207]

I always check the service manual. There are some rare large pieces of equipment that require a prefilled oil filter. It's really rare. The filters will come with a plug for the center hole and a funnel for the side holes. Oil flows from the side holes through the filter into the center then out through the center into the engine. Some really large trucking companies buy enough semi trucks that they have the manufacturer, not a dealership but technicians that work for the manufacturer to come on site for warranty repairs and large delivery inspections. If they see a company tech prefilling an oil filter on an application not called for it, they get the VIN number off the truck and void the engine warranty. They will go through the company maintenance logs (Federal law requires motor carriers to keep maintenance records showing when service is performed and by who) and every vehicle that tech worked on will be suspect and scrutinized when coming in for warranty work. Best not to risk it with expensive vehicles, follow manufacturer procedures and laid out in the service manual to a T. New semi truck engine is $40k, best not risk the warranty. That's also why many large companies pay a nationwide show like Speedco to do PM service. The cost of them doing it is a cheap insurance plan. If they screw up their insurance will replace the engine.

[@rossawood5075]

The 5 cylinder 3.2 Ford Duratorque diesel engine benefits timewise from replacing oil filter first , adding oil to the filter container first then draining oil, as there is only a 10 minute period to replace oil after draining due to it being fitted with a variable flow oil pump that drains and won't pick up the replenished oil once it drains.

[@Fuse_146]

​@charlesbolin7207 some procedures and protocols are put in place to limit human error. This sounds more like one of those quality control situations rather than tainted products. A small piece of foil from the bottle, for example, doesn't have a chance to get in the internals if there is a blanket policy in place.

[@charlesbolin7207]

@@Fuse_146 There is more to it than that. Keep in mind when I dump a gallon of oil into a semi truck it goes straight into the oil pan because that's where the filler tube goes. If I dump a quart of oil into a car, the filler is usually on top of the engine right where the valve train is. Diesel engines are really sensitive to contamination because oil flows through the diesel fuel injectors. Get the oil pathways plugged on a diesel engine and you can do serious damage real fast.

[@philc.9280]

I've been changing oil for over 40 years and I never developed the habit of prefilling the filter before changing it. The technique sounds good on paper, but I never had any issues with this extra step. There is a layer of lubricant on the cylinders and pistons after draining the oil so not sure if this is really crucial or not.

[@peghead]

Regardless if your oil filter mounts sideways or any other direction where completely pre-filling the filter is not feasible, at the very least, pour oil in the filter to saturate the filter medium, it's amazing how much oil is required to do this and when installed, the pleats are saturated and saves precious time for the oil to flow where it's needed and cuts down on "dry-startup" time.

[@Methodical2]

I'll do this next time although I've never done this before.

[@Radar88269]

A motor could sit for 20 years and still won't be a "dry start".

[@Methodical2]

True. I did this when I changed the oil on my daughters car and it took a lot of oil to saturate the media. That's all I could do because the filter sits sideways.

[@patrickkerner1471]

Every 3k with a filter replacement, wix filter prefered! Good overall video!

[@styldsteel1]

I always fill (partially fill) my filter. I learned the hard way. After an oil change my oil light came on. Level was perfect. Long story short, an air lock had been created. I filled the filter from then on, never happened again.

[@JR-vi4rl]

I won't change the oil in any of my vehicles if I don't have the time to let the old oil drip out of the engine for at least 30 minutes. Needless to say, I've never used any of the "10 minute" oil change places.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

That’s only one reason to avoid those places…

[@robertswift6101]

we love jiffy lube

[@JR-vi4rl]

@@robertswift6101 Good luck.

[@will5879]

They stripped the drain plug on my daughters Ford Fusion, and of course didn't say anything..@@BudgetMechanicHawaii

[@DonOra-ve5fc]

Nobody needs to wait 30 minutes to wait 30 minutes to drain the oil

[@ApostateApostrophe42276]

I'm 45. I've changed my own oil since I was 16 years-old. I change my oil every 7,500 miles. Always fill the oil filter. I put one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer and 4 quarts of 5w-30. It reduces engine wear by causing oil to adhere to metallic surfaces. Also, when you crank your car. Wait for the idle to lower and let the oil pump circulate for at least 30 seconds. I do this even in the summer. It prevents metal on metal contact

[@philpots3216]

You should use your old oil for painting sheds fences gates ect, bloody good stuff

[@laraib827]

Excellent point. My dad's been doin that for 40 years. And believing it or not. That fence lasted 35 years or more.. because of putting oik on it. So after that we never threw oil away..

[@aonghusofaolain8686]

But would the fence stink then?

[@grazz7865]

You hit the nail on the head with over tightening the oil pan bolt. I have stripped enough bolts in my time and you’re exactly right-the bolt doesn’t hold anything together. Once you turn the bolt once or twice, the oil stops coming out.

[@CurlyFromTheSwirly]

Yep, I'd rather do it loose and waste a little oil, then know to do more, than risk ruining a critical part of my car.

[@anonymike8280]

@@CurlyFromTheSwirly Get a cheap 1/2 inch drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight. It's good enough for an oil plug. I tighten them to 30 foot-pounds. The published specs vary somewhat.

[@MacPakinga-gl8bu]

Yep done mine exactly field my oil cape running smoothly now. Chaned all my oil's.thank you for sharing 👍🏼 love my Toyota Celica 1995 🚗.

[@michaelgreene]

I have a Tacoma also. V6 4 ltr. My oil filter is under the hood and upside down. And another thought. If you add too much oil there is a concern if it is high enough to be contacted by the crankshaft or piston rods. It'd have to he quite high to do that. The small change is level, I would think, would not impact oil pressure much. Considering 1 foot of liquid only imparts 0.43 psi. So a small level increase in oil should not raise pressure much. Great tips. Great video.

[@jimeckenrode1271]

But with to much oil in the engine it will get air rated which is not good for the engine.

[@yarpos]

so what is the issue with the top mounted oil filter?

[@michaelgreene]

There is no issue. This guy says you have to fill your new oil filter with oil before installing it. I am pointing out that sometimes that is impossible@@yarpos

[@MoSportsUSA]

I would submit that a #1 mistake many make when changing oil is draining the oil before removing the oil filter. If this is done and the filter cannot be removed, you'll need to refill the engine with oil to be able to drive it to purchase the proper tool for oil filter removal. Added Bonus: I also remove the oil filler cap before draining the oil. This seems to allow air to be drawn into the engine as the oil drains, increasing the oil speed and, hence, more complete drainage. Bonus #2: Start the drainage then have lunch. Over time more oil will drain.

[@IncogNito-gg6uh]

That's a good reason to follow his "hand tight" advice for installing the oil filter.

[@HiramSpringer]

Taking off the oil filter before draing the oil could be a flood of oil coming out!

[@slapskate]

​@@HiramSpringerWe're talking gushers baby! 💦👀

[@MoSportsUSA]

@@HiramSpringer Actually, a lot of that doesn't occur plus you're already got the drainage pan.

[@anonymike8280]

All of you idiots are talking like the oil you drain out is highly contaminated. You are not supposed to drive the vehicle without an oil change for so long that the oil becomes seriously contaminated. You can drive to store to get a tool and then change the filter. You drove on the old oil up to the moment you parked the vehicle for the oil change.

[@DonPMaroney]

A couple of comments. 1) the oil pump does not know how much oil is in the engine. There's either enough to supply oil to the pump, or there is not. Unless the oil level seriously low, such that the pickup tube runs dry, the oil pressure will not be effected. Its not uncommon to encounter cars 2 quarts low - but they haven't seized, no warning lights are on, and the gauge will not indicate low pressure. Overfilling is bad because the crankshaft will cause the oil to foam - that will cause a loss of pressure. I do not believe overfilling the oil will cause high pressure. Just be sure to use the right amount. Its simple; all of my cars hold 5 quarts, so I pour in a 5 quart jug - its no more difficult than that. 2) Pre-filling the filter isn't strictly necessary, but it cannot cause harm. If there is a problem with the oil containing particulates, or whatever, change brands. I prefill the filter if I can, but if the filter position or type makes this difficult I don't worry about it. Remember that a filter can't remove all particles, but only those particles large enough to be captured by the media. Smaller particles pass right through. 3) I've never had a problem changing oil, but my son recently took his truck to a local dealership and they left it leaking oil - made a huge mess under his pickup. Then last weekend I took my daughters Camry to another dealership (so they could inspect it) , and they failed to install the filter housing properly - it was leaking so bad I saw it before they had time to pull it around and park it. I guess no one checks their work anymore. And people ask me why I do my own maintenance.

[@claiborneeastjr4129]

I agree with your comments. I let mine drain about ten minutes, then pour about 1/3 quart of fresh oil into the engine, and let it drain out. It removes/flushes out several oz. of old dirty oil that accumulates in the engine. OK, a "waste" of new, fresh oil some would say, but I do it anyway. It is nice to see clean oil dripping out of the drain plug hole. Fortunately, all my vehicles have vertically-mounted oil filters that are easy to pre-fill.

[@yarpos]

filter orientation doesnt really matter much if you are pre filling your oil filter. Within a minute the oil soaks into the fliter material and it wont run out again.

[@mikemadasafish]

I started car DIY in 1966. Fortunately I learned to do it properly then. Never had an engine issue from changing oil incorrectly. (as opposed to blowing one up due to gross abuse)

[@louispaxton8336]

Simple but important guidelines..well presented, all useful. Also your "delivery" is great..like your positivity. Keep it up!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Thank you! Will do!

[@jerradwilson]

Reminds me of Antenna Man. Straight, to the point, never uses the words like or um...

[@GaryLiseo]

A few mistakes I've seen working in an oil change shop (some you mentioned): Double-gaskets happen and I've even seen cars have them after seeing our shop. It doesn't happen often, from what little I've seen, but it does happen. We even had a car come in with a canister filter that had two gaskets. I'm still surprised it wasn't leaking. I've seen plenty of improperly installed filters (oil and air). I remember a car coming through with an oil leak that was from the filter being on crooked after they got their oil changed from a dealership. I've also seen enough air filters or housing units for air filters not be installed right. I do my best to fix them and let the customer know it was wrong and now it's right. Last, but certainly not least, I want to say that even "professional" oil change places can overtighten drain plugs and filters. Our current policy is to tighten filters with a band wrench. Most of the guys I work with know that oil filters only need to be hand tight, so this is especially annoying to us. I've never tightened an oil filter on my car with a wrench and I've never had one fall off... ever. Drain plugs are similar. I'll hand tighten a drain plug then snug it up with a wrench if I'm changing oil myself because that's all they really need... usually. Some cars need a little more than snug to crush their gaskets and prevent leaks, but not all cars have gaskets (none of mine ever did). Here's a bonus mistake: not draining out all the oil. If you're changing your own oil please be sure to let all the old oil out. I've seen too many cars get mostly drained and plugged up before all the oil is out. Of course this saves time and lets us change more cars, earning the company more money. Personally, I'll let a car sit and drain until it is done draining.

[@rolanddaniel3060]

Hate changing oil in my 2018 f150

[@btx5740]

I see that SUPER TECH OIL 💪🏿

[@bd764]

Good video! I would say if your drain plug is at the back of the oil pan,as it is on my Chevy Cruze,its ok to drain the oil with the car on ramps. And thank the lord for the top of the engine mounted oil filter!!

[@vanessacarrera7]

this is so cool! i change my oil and i didn't know all these safe steps thank you so much! now i'm excited to change it again and do it properly🎉

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Have fun out there!

[@hansmeyer403]

I really like your instructions because they come with a "Why" 😊

[@KendrasEdge757]

lol you don’t need to pre-fill the oil filter. It’s not damaging anything on modern vehicles. Basically an old trope that people still say to do when you don’t need to do that. Modern cars have significantly better oil pumps, internal oil feeding, and better filters themselves.

[@KendrasEdge757]

@@wholeNwon yes definitely is. Theres enough oil remaining on the top end of the motor-heads that you’re not running the engine without oil in the milliseconds it takes to push the oil to the heads. There’s plenty of videos that go more in-depth about why pre-filling oil filters was done in the first place back in the day and why they don’t need to be pre-filled today on modern engines with modern oil.

[@rabudman]

In your view, what is considered a "modern" engine? 80's and up? 90's? 2000's? I'm not a subscriber to the "prefill your filter" method either.@@KendrasEdge757

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Also several good video by smarter people than me that show (on a modern vehicle) that prefilling reduces gaps in oil pressure. So I guess decide for yourself.

[@KendrasEdge757]

@@BudgetMechanicHawaii well you can probably find a video to support any position one may hold. All the mechanics I know & have seen that have been doin this a lot longer than I have don’t prefill the filter. When you drain the oil you’re not draining all of the oil out. The top end and oil pump still have some oil. If you were draining the oil for a week than yeah that would probably be a good idea, or on heavy equipment or big diesel engines, high performance engines, but this will remain a discussion for many decades to come between those that do and those that don’t and everyone in between 😂

[@carlovanrijk4039]

@@BudgetMechanicHawaiiI was watching your video to see if there was anything I was doing wrong when changing my engine oil. Happy to say that my methods pretty much mirror your correct ones! Kudos! 😃👍🏼

[@JohnRglmtz]

I change the oil myself on our 3 vehicles, all at least 20 years old. I comply with 8 of your 9 points. However, my trusted internet experts all seem to agree that pre-filling your oil filter is NOT required. And indeed, pre-filling may cause another issue which is the false oil leak which happens when you slobber some oil around the mating surface when installing the pre-filled filter and later that looks tp you like the filter is leaking. This happens even if you're careful about wiping down your mess after installing the filter. I would rather install the filter empty and later if I happen to see oil around the filter then I know for sure it's a real leak and not just the remnants of my pre-filled oil mess dripping down.

[@RJAH355]

If you drain the oil when it’s still hot or warm there will be still some in the engine. If you do it after the car as been left over night you’ll get nearly all of the old oil out. It will just take 5 minutes to drain it instead of a couple minutes. And telling people run there engine to get it warm then drain it is ridiculous. You will be leaving a lot of your old oil in the engine as it takes a couple of hours for all the oil to drain back to the sump.

[@1gerard47]

Agree he's talking rubbish on the first two points.

[@geraldscott4302]

It doesn't take a couple of hours for all the oil that is going to come out to drain after running an engine until it reaches operating temperature. It won't take more than 15 minutes. I always let it drain at least 15 minutes while I am doing other things. You really do want that oil hot, and moving around in the engine and oil pan to get as much of the contaminants out of the engine as possible. They can settle to the bottom of the oil pan if the engine has been sitting overnight, and stay there when you drain the oil cold. Over time, sludge will build up in the bottom of the pan, among other places.

[@RJAH355]

@@geraldscott4302 is that right. Next time you do a oil change. Leave the car over night then drain it and when you’ve added the new oil take a look at the oil after you’ve drove it. It will still be clear then check what colour the oil is after waiting 15 minutes for it to drain. I’ve been doing oil changes for a very long time. And running the engine to get the oil warm is ridiculous. It takes few minutes for it to drain out the pan when it’s cold. And you get nearly every bit.

[@forwarddrive4066]

Horrible advice. Thicker cold oil is what sticks to your internals. It doesn't take but 20 min. Max for all oil in the engine to settle in the pan. Smoke some more, goofy

[@forwarddrive4066]

​@@geraldscott4302 Some real winners giving foolish advice here. I agree with what you're saying. Dude said it takes overnight for oil to settle in the pan...😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@kevingross7082]

Had a 18R I think that a oil filter gasket stuck to the block, then somehow PO got the new one on. With the engine on the ground it took us many hours to finally get the filter base off. It was all thing that was left at this point.

[@drahgsukray2834]

Why do you need to warm car up? If car is cold, oil is settled in the oil pan along with all the particles. Now if you warm your car up before changing oil, basically you circulate old oil with particles all over your engine.

[@riceburner4747]

Unless it's sub zero. PLUS the 0w's are thin. I agree with u.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

You want to stir up the particles into the oil so they come out rather than sinking into cracks and crannies

[@drahgsukray2834]

@@BudgetMechanicHawaii Thank you for the answer. I'm not entirely convinced, but overall I don't think it matters that much. If you want to keep engine in good condition the only thing that works is changing oil often enough and avoiding cheap oil.

[@brianwintermute9551]

Warm up the engine and circulate the oil for a few minutes. Shut it down and let the oil drain back down into the pan, carrying dirt etc with it. Before you drain the oil, loosen the filler cap and pull up the dipstick - a) you know the cap will come off, b) the dip stick reminds you to add oil. Then drain your oil while still warm and change the filter.

[@NickOvcen]

Let that drain overnight that’s what I do get all the dirt out

[@omegaman1409]

I can add to this to always counter clockwise when undoing the drain plug and filter. I learned that while I was a mech in the military and always stayed with me. You can assure you won't strip them.

[@gregsmith2262]

I would like to know how you can pre-fill your oil filter if it is an upside down cartridge filter. I just fill to fill line, start then stop the engine and top up.

[@kaydenmorrison4769]

right. but promise it makes no difference pre filling the filters

[@michaelwerk9430]

Clear flood mode.

[@yarpos]

fill it up, leave it sit for one minute , all the oil soaks into the filter material, install it in any orientation and nothing leaks out. I do it all the time on a V6 Toyota.

[@jimthompson3030]

with a turbo you better fill filter if possible turbos destroy easy never go more than 8000 mi on any eng oil.. 5000 to 8000 thousand on any oil and proper oil..65 years as mechanic with noooo oil problems!!!!!

[@dingydingus1217]

Personally, I always use the oil wrench to tighten the filter an extra little bit. I had my oil changed at a roadside place one time for convenience, and when I went to do it myself after that, the filter was so loose it was practically rattling. And of course the drain plug had the opposite issue. Every time someone in my family gets their oil changed at one of those places, I have to buy a new drain plug because they impact wrench them back on for some dumb reason

[@Dave-tm8rp]

There is no need to pre-fill the filter. If that were the case all the cars with side mount filter would be toast

[@SuperMegaImbaLord]

Of course its Not. If you don‘t drive your car over the weekend or for like 2-3 days the Filter is also nearly dry. Imagine always prefilling the Filter after Not driving for a longer duration. 😅

[@shpingaletty]

Good thing in US you guys have programs for oil disposal. In Russia, you can sell for a cheap price or just give your used oil to someone who uses it for their oil stoves in winter. The situation is much more difficult with coolants: there isn't just any place that will recieve your used coolant, which is terrible. I feel bad about it, but I've already left it at an ordinary dump, and will have to do it again when the time comes to change my coolant.

[@garyrobbins5505]

Pour it down your toilet and the sewage system in your town will treat it before it goes into the environment.

[@shpingaletty]

@@garyrobbins5505 At first I really doubted your idea, but given than most of them are ethylene glycol, which is also used in cosmetics, this might actually work! Thanks for a great idea *high five*

[@anonymike8280]

If the coolant is ethylene glycol, exposed to the environment, it breaks down into harmless chemical pretty quickly.

[@peterrudy9207]

Best to remove filter first , to relieve pressure . To have less mess as oil flow seems to be even , steady and not splatter . And I always go for a extended drive 30 minutes or more , before changing . And always use an engine flush , Amsoil or Liqui-Moly and even BG EPR . One that won't damage seals , etc as I expect a solvent based one would , over time . I changed to a magnetic drain plug . And considering the magnets that attach around the oil filter . And though some have continued to reuse the metal drain plug gasket . I always use a new one and most definitely if it is fiber , always a new one . As I could see the fiber cracking at sometime . Hand threading the drain plug until it can't go anymore . Than use the smallest rachet with short extension and 6 point socket for a few turns . And I completely remove the oil filter cap and even dipstick , to allow air to enter . I take a full hour to let as much oil drain out .

[@charlesbolin7207]

You can also loosen the oil cap to relieve pressure or pull the dipstick out part way. I recommend pulling the dipstick out partway, pros use it as an indicator that oil is not in the engine.

[@peterrudy9207]

@@charlesbolin7207 Ok , I fully remove the dipstick and oil filler cap and put on the tool bench .

[@charlesbolin7207]

@@peterrudy9207 I'd just loosen the filler cap. The full opening is pretty big and the last thing you want is dust, debris and other contaminants in your valve train.

[@DanielJohnson-ec8rk]

Relieve pressure? You don’t know much about

[@fredcloud9668]

There is no pressure.

[@kimyoung4836]

I like that copper washer idea, never thought of that!

[@JohnPflug-u5r]

Many late model Subarus have an upside down oil filter. After completing an oil/filter change, hold the gas pedal to the floor while engaging the starter. The oil pressure will build to normal in a few seconds without the engine firing.

[@stanleyroberts6669]

You Are Good, Man & I've did exactly as you said,on how to change your oil.& Only one thing I didn't do is fill the oil filter before installing the filter, so from now on I'll put oil in my New filter, thanks a bunch!!😅

[@karlismierins2908]

Hey bright boy.....it's ok to drain the oil when the engine's cold because all the oil has completely drained into the oil pan from the last time you drove it. If you the start the engine, all the oil goes back up into the engine, and all the oil actually takes much longer to fully drain...understand????

[@newportpa67]

I totally agree with you.

[@P.S.009]

Helpful video! I would like to add one more I recently just learned myself. Wipe the threads of the new oil filter before installing. There are fine metal powders on them!

[@patrickphippspa584]

ALWAYS love your videos. Thanks buddy, good to see you again!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Rajah!

[@brendanpells912]

The manual on my Hyundai advises checking the oil level when the oil is hot, and on level ground. So I don't quite fill up to the mark, allow the engine to warm up, then allow it to stand for at least five minutes so all the oil drips back into the sump. Then do a final top-up to the mark. Because it's a diesel, the new oil quickly turns black and is easier to read on the dipstick. Also, pull the dipstick out, wipe the oil off, then push it back in and out to get the correct level

[@earlgreco8636]

Thanks for the good instruction. I have more confidence now.

[@XxHells_AngelxX]

As a certified technician the only filters that are recommended to be primed is a diesel filter. But it does not hurt the vehicle if you prime any of the filters just be cautious of leaks when not properly installed.

[@kimegekjr5971]

Prefilling the filter can cause damage as oil is added on the 'clean' side of the filter. So if you are adding any dust or other impurities on the clean side while prefilling, then they are going directly into the engine - and are not stopped by the filter... Dont do it.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

You mean the fresh oil from the bottle isn’t being filtered? Not a problem.

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

Yeah if you have to be concerned about dirty oil in the bottle, you need to switch brands.

[@trenacraft4181]

Thankyou so much I didn't know half of these things, it makes alot of sense

[@woodensurfer]

With Full Syn changing oil frequently there is no need to warm up the car 32F or warmer. The oil will flow quite well. The difference between draining 96% versus 98% of the oil is unimportant. It will be like driving 100-200 miles. After the first one or two oil changes, it will be possible to add carefully measured amount of oil. The purpose of running the car after adding back oil is to check for leak, not to check oil level. Oil level is quite accurately decided by the measured amount you put in. If there is no leak, the oil level will be good for a few hundred miles, even if not at the highest level. I don't check for leak before if the next trip is short. I check after the short trip. There will be no way to leak more than half a quart in 10 miles, except for gross negligence. Putting oil in the filter is not necessarily good. A heavy oil filter could lead to bumping in the wrong surface, contaminating. If the car has not been parked for more than 24 hours, there will be enough oil clinging to the wall and valve train for a gasoline car with a small filter.

[@anonymike8280]

My sources report that bearing still have oil in them even after six months of sitting. The lubrication requirements of an idling engine are minimal.

[@gilv4889]

In my opinion, unless you are in a really cold area, you can drain the oil when the car has been off overnight. You want all the bad stuff at the bottom of the sump so it will drain out. You don’t want all the crud circulating back into the engine. If you have sludge, I guess it doesn’t matter, it won’t come out either way. If you did regular oil changes then the oil will drain normally even when cool.

[@RobbiRocks]

G'day, Thanks for having No annoying back ground music, Fantastic stuff, Cheers..

[@Methodical2]

I've torn down and rebuilt my 95 Cobra motor with 135k miles where I've never saturated the filter pleats or prefilled the oil filter and the motor was in pristine condition. I changed the oil every 3k miles (regular dyno oil) or 3 months (always hit miles 1st). That is why I am not a staunch believer on the need to prefill the oil filter. I've seen with my own eyes no negative affects from not doing it. I may try saturating the oil filter element in the future because the oil filter in my vehicles are all on the block sideways. I'm willing to bet that the majority of commenters here have never torn open a motor to validate any of these claims. Oh, the rebuild was not because there was an issue with the motor; it was to build it stronger with forged parts for the power.

[@mikenagy938]

I'd love to fill my filter before putting it on, but you will have to explain to me how I won't lose all that oil as my filter screws on sideways.

[@fredcloud9668]

You can't.

[@newportpa67]

Lay the vehicle on its side!

[@mattwaters6987]

​@@newportpa67 😂😂😂

[@dejandezman6139]

If you change the oil on a completely flat surface, you don't need to look at the dipstick when pouring oil. If, of course, you know how much to pour according to the instructions, you pour as much as necessary. It is unnecessary to check the dipstick. I changed the oil myself at home without a lift or channel, I didn't even have ramps to drive onto. I used a scissor jack to change the tires, drained the oil, lowered the jack to get as much oil out as possible. Then I lifted it again, crawled down, screwed the plug on which I installed a new copper gasket, screwed it in by feel, filled the filter with oil, lubricated the filter seal and screwed it in by hand. Then I poured 4 liters of oil into the car. Otherwise, the instructions say 3.9, but a deciliter more is really not a problem. Because I just emptied the container with oil and that deciliter didn't stay in the bottle for 1 year, the next year there would be 2 deciliters left and so on... I don't know how much that is in American units, but I can say that 1 deciliter more to 3.9 liters of oil, that is really little.

[@defafa9249]

You lost me when you said fill the filter with oil 😂

[@richardwendt4612]

Many times after draining the old oil, I would pour some of the new oil in with the drain plug still removed just to get the last of the old oil out.

[@slapskate]

That's a good idea. Get some cheap oil to use almost like a flush to get that last bit of crud on the bottom.

[@johnlewis5667]

you forgot number 10 don't use Fram oil filter

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Haha! The cheapest frams are the worst yes. They make some decent ones tho.

[@robertslegers257]

Don't be a hater.

[@jimeckenrode1271]

Actually Fram makes the best filter on the market. People who say don't use from because one failed back in the early 50's.

[@joeciarlette2296]

I have a 2000 Jeep WJ 4.7 I purchased new. It currently has 252,000 on original engine (and trans). Runs like new. Used Fram orange filters most oil changes. Not a thing wrong with them.

[@philc.9280]

The prefilling of oil filters is such a debatable topic. I've been changing oil for over 40 years and never developed the habit of doing it. I do know that all of the cylinders and engine parts are coated with oil, so I don't think that couple of seconds would make any difference anyway. Also, there was a KZbin video that I appreciated showing someone adding more oil than required in different amounts. It took a lot of oil (more than 2 qts I believe) before oil started leaking from seals. So, the occasional slight overfill shouldn't be a problem.

[@stanandshermiscavage3626]

My tacoma filter is upside down so how do u keep oil in it

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Can’t on that one!

[@jasondray8267]

I do my own.have since 1995 20 years old. Its fun! I do recommend using an oil with esters in it or hi PAO pack. Redline has the most esters. Am soil signature series.those are the two authentic true synthetic oils commercially available. Mobil one is not a true synthetic anymore.Exxon's way of saving money. But it is a PAO oil.cleans slot getter with old carbon baked on piston rings,ect. Mobil Extent d performance advertises back bottle,removes sludge.the other Mobil synthetics only s all with carbon from current oil change,not the old stuff. When I was a kid early 80s. dad was mowing lawn. some guy pulled over our corner,and poured used more tor oil in the sewer drain. My dad went to him, dunno what he said...but the guy didn't wanna make eye contact. Our sewer drains,aka storm drains go directly out the ocean.not sewage treatment plant. I like too use stop or AC Delco intake cleaner before draining old oil. Then rest 30 minutes and refill with cheapest oil I can find. As s black flush. Run it idle 20-25 minutes,30: minutes cool down.drain it,refill oil I wanna use n good filter.I like going local recycling plant.. Pour it into the oil buffalo.

[@maicoman100]

0w 20 oil pisses out cold.

[@JustinWallace-ky9dm]

Even worse when it’s warm, feckin stuff goes everywhere… 😂

[@skilland]

I would just like to add. Fill the filter with oil before replacing and remove dip stick when refilling the engine this allows the air to escape and eliminates oil bubbling back and making a mess.

[@sharthun2009]

Budget Mechanic spreading old wives tales.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

We almost chose that as our channel name.

[@claudreindl7275]

I bought a different car in April. First oil change, I had to use a wrench with ~14" throw and 50-75 ft-lb of torque to break the filter loose. Mechanic at expensive dealership apparently never lubed the O-ring and torqued the 💩 out of the filter when he installed it.

[@NMTRUCKER]

I thought that with multi viscosity oil like 5w-30 the oil flows like a 5 weight oil when cold and a 30 weight oil when hot. So accordingly a cold oil should flow better than a hot oil or am I missing something?😮

[@vetteguy6902]

Over full oil does not create more oil pressure. The pump dictates pressure level. Over full oil has a greater chance to foam the oil from windage reducing its ability to properly lubricant. Foaming puts air in the oil. Also over full can force more oil vapor through the pcv system and with todays direct injection that will add more deposits quicker to the back of intake valves and ports.

[@dragonflymoxie5646]

You do know that the oil pickup is submerged in the oil pan….right? There is zero benefit to filling the filter, zero.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Let’s disagree to agree

[@kenr102]

The oil drains from the oil pickup pipe too

[@chloeew4627]

Drop the oil yesterday overnight ,change the filter ,new oil tomorrow . Repeat every 10,000 kms or twice a year . Drain coolant every 2 years .

[@petrocksgarage]

Never pre-fill your filter with oil. Oil does not come pre-filtered from the factory so you are allowing unfiltered oil to run through your motor on first startup. Quality filters are designed to filter out things significantly smaller than the width of a human hair or dust particle. There is no guarantee a spec of dust or other contaminant did not get into the 'clean' oil in the bottle during manufacturing. Especially for cheaper no-name oil brands. Most people have different grip and forearm strengths and their hand-crometers are never calibrated properly. I typically recommend people spin the filter on until the gasket lightly comes in contact with the sealing surface and then turn it an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn with a wrench or by hand (if you're able). That helps prevent over & under tightening. Both are equally as common in my experience. IMO, a loose/leaking filter is a bigger problem than an over tightened filter. One missed tip was to wipe the filter sealing surface clean to avoid contaminants falling into the filter as you spin it on, but also to ensure that the seal from the old filter isn't stuck to it. Double stacked filter seals are also super common. Other then that, great video!

[@hilariocoronado9209]

One of the point I don't liked is warm up motor, last night when you stop the car was very hot all the oil gone to the pan, I don't think you need to warm up motor

[@dejandezman6139]

Of course, it's good if you do the exchange yourself at home and you have time, just leave it for a long time so that it drains really well.

[@62impalaconvert]

From what I have read multi-viscosity oils do not change "thickness" from cold to hot or hot to cold. That is how they are designed. So hot oil or cold oil draining time should not be any different. As long as you let it drain until it stops dripping, any temperature of the oil should produce similar results.

[@theredscourge]

You can get the oil to circulate after an oil change by pulling out a fuel system fuse or relay then trying to start the engine for a few sec. The oil pump and the engine will turn very slowly, but the engine won't start. Then just put the fuse back in and you can start it up successfully. However, this should not be necessary for filling the oil filter because gravity fills it already anyway, especially with these modern thin synthetic oils. Lubing the gasket on the oil filter is also unnecessary if you use Toyota OEM filters as they are already lubricated.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Good info!

[@andrewwade8562]

I liked the content, however as a mechanic myself I differ from your view of an overfill of the engine following the oil change. It is my understanding that oil also cools an engine, not just the coolant. To add too much oil means that a multi grade oil will not reach its operating temperature viscosity because the excess oil is a heat sink and the viscosity remains in the cold range for longer resulting in premature engine damage Andrew wade

[@fleetwin1]

I guess there are a few different ways of thinking about draining the oil, warm vs. cold. I would agree the cold oil will drain out very slowly. But on the other hand, most all the oil that is suspended throughout the engine will have time to drain back down into the pan if you drain the oil cold. But, like you say, you will have to be very patient and let the oil take its time draining.

[@johnmellyn2700]

After you remove the drain plug and oil starts to drain , remove the filler cap up top so that the oil will drain more quickly and effectively

[@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649]

Aftermarket FRANZ toilet paper filter will catch particulate matter down to 1 micron (at about 1 qt/minute filter rate). Regular filters catch at around 10 microns because of engine lubrication requirements. The FRANZ doesn't replace but supplements in junction with regular filter. Oil stays cleaner longer. Add an additional oil cooler after radiator and you'll have a much happier engine.