Tutorial Tuesday Episode 15 - How To Make Model Railway Pavements

[@hadynmcloughlin4661]

Love this simple paving method in the 'paper/printed texture' pattern style to match paper style buildings with similar colours and styling to create a theme and overall strong visual appeal. Not easy to do with traditional scenics.

[@ThePleb]

Have you considered the roads and pavement pack from scalescenes? For £2.99 you buy it once and then you can just print them out however much you need for each project saving you a lot of money

[@fluo6610]

Hi Mike, I have done the same job over the last weeks and here are some tips based on my experiences:1. I used the printable paving texture sheets TX193 from modelrailwayscenery.com or TX21 from scalescenes.comfor just £1.99. You can download it instantly and print it as many times as you need. This is much cheaper I think. You have then a large sheet (A4) and don't have to cut and glue many small pieces.2. Better use a Pritt stick for glueing the paving paper. This prevents glue marks and the paper doesn't soak with the liquid glue (like PVA). If you are using PVA it may end up in bubbles and waves. Apply the Pritt stick on the cardboard and not on the Paper.3. For more realistic kerb stones I used the laser cut kit LX135-OO from scalemodelscenery.co.uk. This gives you 3 meters (not ft) of very realistic stones for just £4.49. More than enough for your 18 inch curve layout. You can also use them in curves.I am in no relationship with the companies above. But this is a very cheap and effective way to do this job. I tried some other methods before (gray paint, pre-printed sheets, Metcalfe self adhesive stones).Guido

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, I've used scalescene and they are a good product, I have used print sticks but don't always find them perm. I only buy papers second hand so most have only cost me a few pence a sheet. Thanks for the suggestions

[@garykreeger7434]

Another great tutorial. I have just worked out what it is that grips me so much about your channel - and this is meant as a complement - it is very Blue Peter esque. Something we can all do using materials to hand or for little or no outlay, shown quickly but effectivly. Waiting for Tracy Island :-) Keep up the great videos.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, that's what we were aiming for . The Tracy Island railway , that's an idea!

[@AndysShed]

I have a different way of doing roads / pavements which gets rid of the problems of joints everywhere. I use those modellers match sticks (matches without heads on) to frame the area I want to pave. The match sticks become the kerb stones and laying them in first is actually the way the full sized thing is done. Next I partly fill in the area inside the kerb boundary with any old card or cardboard. You don't have to fit this at all carefully because the third phase invilves mixing up a thin mix of plaster of paris (it really needs to be plaster of paris rather than a filler like pollyfilla because the fillers are too thick and won't flow. Pour the plaster onto the area and let it sit just a mil or so higher than the kerbs. It wants to be threatening to come over the edge, but not actually running over because surface tension is holding it back. After a couple of minutes it will have started to set and be the consistency of thick double cream. It this stage run a straight edge across the area using the kerbs as guides. It's just like striking off concrete in the full sized world! Discard any that runs over the kerbs. What you have left is a perfectly flat area that can be made as big as you like without joints. I like to do this after the buildings are in place, not before, so as to avoid that gap you often see under model buildings. If you think about it tarmac etc is always laid up to a wall, so I'm just doing the prototypical thing on a much smaller scale. This method really comes into it's own if you're laying tram tracks or dock rail that needs to be embedded in the road surface. Just lay the plaster and strike off level with the rail head. Then when the plaster is half dry run something down the inside of the rails to make the grooves. This will upset the surface between tha rails by raising it slightly, but just let it dry fully then use an old wood chisel to remove the excess above the rail head. Leave the plaster white if you're doing a snow scene or put a bit of paint in the mix to give a base colour of tarmac/concrete. I always paint the surface, but the base colour helps if any areas get damaged.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

A great tip thanks

[@jamescarryl9690]

Great tutorial. I personally prefer using casting mortar. I get a 5 lb bucket for 6 bucks and change. I usually make from 2 to 10 at a time then I have a few spares. I enjoyed. Keep up the great modeling guys.

[@fredrich9841]

Great video! I do something similar but I use thin balsa wood and an online download for pavement paper. It’s more expensive than 1 set of superquick papers I think, but you can print it as many times as you like, so even when you factor in the cost of paper it will most likely come out a bit cheaper (even using Matt photo paper which I do). I think it’s scalescenes I use.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Scalescenes are very good

[@johnslade3104]

Now that quick. I wondered how you made the pavements, now we all know thanks for the video usefully as to expect.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Great video, thanks for posting.

[@baldypalmsrailroad]

Nice tutorial. Thanks for posting another great easy way to make pavement.

[@BeetonHoughJunction]

Nice quick easy way of making pavements will use this idea the town scene, im currently finishing off the metcalfe inn and a few other kits i had from chritsmas Cheers beeton hough junction (dave c)

[@stargawper]

Hi Mike and Doug, yet again more useful techniques, thanks for the info, regards Kev. BTW Granddaughter is enjoying her layout.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Excellent

[@ModelMinutes]

Top Tips! Great way of quickly adding some realism :D

[@reakingringpiece]

great video, love the tips, silent and looks great :)

[@scottishsteamproductions2014]

Thanks for all the help All the best

[@SimonLivertonCentral]

Very nice "how to" and well presented. Can I ask how thick the board is, or is mounting board one thickness?..Simon

[@BudgetModelRailways]

It's double thickness

[@SimonLivertonCentral]

Hi, I meant the thickness of each piece

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Approx 2mm each piece so 4mm in total

[@bernardprice8316]

just realized i signed up for the newsletter when i first subscribed have yet to see one yet and it has not been going in my spam folder either

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Hi, one is due out in Feb, sorry we got so busy we fell behind with sending it out

[@csxbaltimoresubdivision7746]

Great video, that was a awesome techniques, I will try it out on my layout, thanks for sharing....

[@TheGamingEevee8]

Nice video very cool again :D.

[@ausfoodgarden]

Sorry if you've covered it already and I just haven't watched it yet. Just wondering if you know of good cheap or free alternatives for the framing card and/or plasticard. I find cereal packets too thin and flexible for most uses. btw. Update on my cardboard baseboard - looking good! Not as thick as most of yours as I only intend to use it for a few months and it's mostly supported by a glass top table. Cheers and another nice howto vid :)

[@BudgetModelRailways]

I get my framing card dirt cheap as off cuts from a picture framers so try that first? Also I have experimented successfully with laminating several layers of cereal pack card together to make thicker sheets. Hope this helps

[@ausfoodgarden]

@@BudgetModelRailways Thanks, I'll have to see if I can find a helpful picture framer :) I've tried laminating thin card but wasn't happy with the flatness. I'm using artists cardstock now, but it adds a few dollars to the cost.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

The trick to laminating is to spread the glue evenly but thinly and then weight it down with a big heavy flat object like a book

[@cytrix9585]

Great vid

[@genekloszewski5484]

I've used, Matt board,( Bristol board ), then cut small squares, shirt cardboard, glued on backer, then, acrylic stain, to make retaining walls,,, gene,,,u.s.a...

[@nigelcarter9503]

Great.

[@AGRAVATEDCOMPLICATED]

Any one thinking of trigger? 30 years on a stanly, 17 new heads 14 new Handles

[@flybobbie1449]

Only one problem, ever seen a straight pavement in UK.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Lol so true, or even

[@tsu8003]

I spent 12 quid on some 'paving' sheets from Busch that was nothing more than graph paper stuck down on thin card so I wrote to the company and told them how crap it was! They did reply quite tersely so I wrote back and told them I would never buy another product from them and I'm telling my friends not to either... they didn't reply that time!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Well done you!