Build a Low Cost Cable Railing - Part 1 of 2

[@MuzataCableRailingLEDChannel]

Great video ! Only one advice , better to use stainless steel fitting instead of galvanized fitting for outdoor project, because it might cost more money and effort to replace it after 1-2 years.We have installed lots of project as cable railing supplier , happy to discuss if you guys have any questions.

[@reeooww]

The flamingos are coming in nicely this year 👌👌

[@MrDiyDork]

+reeooww Yeah, with all that rain we had this year, they've been a handful to keep under control.

[@rampanttricky17]

Appreciate: learning from your mistakes. YOU TOLD US WHEN You corrected or adjusted for mistakes (drill bit type) or issues not initially accounted for (post length to get even 4 inch [rather than fractional] rail spacing. Even with your example: Hopefully I will remember to draw out my plan or I will be assembling and disassembling a lot to adjust for design changes or sequence of step errors as I move through a VERY similar project. THANKS DORK!

[@kellymaxson959]

Just finished replacing a section of my falling apart post railing with steel cable. Followed your video instructions. Work out fabulously, thanks!

[@davids1681]

1. Drill pilot-holes to a few inches deep in the concrete, but WITHOUT enlarging the post-base anchor holes - which in many locales will lead to early death from rust because by doing so, you've cut through the corrosion-preventive powder-coating 2. take off base anchors and enlarge holes as needed for wedge anchor-studs 3. set anchor-studs past their sleeve depth, into concrete - without post-bases on them - with sacrificial whacking-nuts spun on a few turns 4. spin off nuts and tease post-bases on all four studs (gently align any errant studs using hammer-blows to sides; studs are still sticking out amply for this purpose) 5. replace sacrificial nuts and drive all four studs home 6. replace sacrificial nuts with your keeper-nuts & torque down

[@gemini022]

Omg I love this beautiful

[@drewmanning1025]

I believe cables need to be spaced 3 - 3 1/2" in lieu of 4" due to the cables flexing. 4" is the absolute minimum typically in code.

[@ryantillman1378]

Just want to say that Im not the handiest guy but your video is very easy to understand and simplistic. Im currently in the process of creating my own railing and have all of the parts ordered for the most part. One question however is im installing new concrete to put my rail on. would you recommend I bypass using the tapcon screws and go straight to the concrete wedge anchors? The wedge anchors seem more sturdy.

[@MrDiyDork]

The tapcon screws may install in the newer concrete just fine. Every time I've tried to use them though, I've always over-torqued / snapped 1 or 2 of them before they drove all the way in. There were actually a few different types of wedge anchors when I picked mine up, so I'd check them all out and go with the most durable ones I could find. I feel like the ones I chose will work fine, but I probably could have found ones that hold even better. Another option would be to do a little Google research into gluing in threaded anchors with epoxy. The adhesive is supposed to be a stronger hold than the wedges like I used. If I did this again, I'd probably try out the epoxy method since it looks fairly quick & simple. Here's a quick look at how it works: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqvFZJugga-fbpI

[@fogsmart]

Galvanized wedge anchors?

[@stalechips7418]

Came across this video as I was looking for some tutorials on the cable railing system. I'm curious as to why you chose to use two anchor plates to secure the posts? Lot of extra work for something that may have been sufficient with one anchor plate and a slim cap that's offered on the Pylex website.

[@jamesl2188]

Hi where can I buy these cable railing fittings?

[@teucer4]

Drill one hole with a hammer drill. If you buy the wrong bit, go back and buy the correct bit before you do. After one hole is drilled, drive one strike anchor. Do not drill all four holes and find out that, while later attempting to drive the strike anchors, that the holes are misaligned.

[@bobtheaccountant2534]

“When we bought the house, it had this really cheesy metal railing….,” says the guy that has a flock of plastic flamingos in his backyard. Nice job on the new house slats and the new wire railing though.

[@akiaanderson]

I love this!

[@taramiller3641]

Thanks for the great cable source. I will be purchasing from Wilson Building Products ebay store and I am so glad to know that he will answer questions. We are building our own house and will be using the cable railings on all the porches and the stairs.

[@MrDiyDork]

You're welcome. I'm all about finding deals for all my projects when I can. I wonder how many people have bought cable from them now since watching the video? Hope I didn't overload their system! lol

[@VistaViewCableTec]

Hi Kevin. Thanks for all the referrals! I have helped many of your viewers with cable as well as general project questions for larger deck projects. If anyone else needs further support, please contact me directly and we can get your project moving in the right directly! -Paul at VistaView CableTec (formerly Wilson Building Products)

[@OldGuyGolf]

You should not have over drilled your plate to accommodate the anchors. You should place the anchors in the concrete first then set your place down over the top. Drilling out your base plate weakens the metal and could cause your post to snap off of the concrete.

[@kaitemoss1583]

You're awesome!

[@syntaxname]

very cool!

[@raularroyo1368]

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[@raularroyo1368]

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[@dckhart]

Great Video! Thanks for uploading it. I am buying materials to install a railing and I am having trouble finding a good price on stainless steel/ aluminum 1/4" turnbuckles. Are the stainless necessary? I've noticed Zinc and galvanized as well.

[@MrDiyDork]

I chose the stainless/aluminum turnbuckles to prevent rust. The zinc or galvanized one would work, but will eventually start to rust. It would take a while though. I got mine from Menards. They did cost more than the zinc coated ones, but should last much longer. I would think you could find a good deal on them on Ebay or Amazon as well.

[@frbrable]

How did those brackets work out? Are your posts fairly stiff, or do they move a bit? I'm considering that approach for my long concrete front porch.

[@MrDiyDork]

They feel very stiff & secure. I was a bit skeptical too, but they've proven to be very sturdy. The railing doesn't budge at all.

[@jamesl2188]

Good ! Althouth I hope it could be shorter :)

[@butterman519]

Hello, In ref. to your cable railing where did you purchase the black 4x4 brackets.

[@MrDiyDork]

I have a link to my website the video description that breaks down where I got everything with more details & pictures.

[@teucer4]

Hot galvanized strike anchors will rust eventually you say, but stainless will not? They will indeed both rot out, but not in your lifetime!

[@mailaloomy4219]

This time I will do it manually with the help of Woodglut designs.

[@ariesrisin26]

This is not for an inpatient man..

[@teucer4]

When the holes are too small to slip your anchors through the metal flange, do not open up the holes by drilling. Simply reverse the direction you insert them, numnuts!

[@jruk1981]

Just watched the video and wondered why the washer and nuts weren’t just removed…….