Build the Polar Lights USS Enterprise Refit 1:350 Scale - Part 9

Continuing my 2023 mission to build the Polar Lights Star Trek USS Enterprise Refit in 1:350 scale.
00:00 - Introduction
01:19 - Stage 18 - Painting the Last Saucer Details
04:04 - Stage 19 - Reviewing the Electrics
Other channels mentioned in this video
SPRUEVERSE : / @sprueverse
AZTEK DUMMY : / @aztekdummy
TREKWORKS : / @trekworks
Most products can be sourced Worldwide from :
www.culttvmanshop.com/
All my Amazon purchases can be found in my Amazon store at
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Paragrafix Photo-Etch and A/B Deck Upgrades
greenstrawberry.cz/
1:350 scale figures can be found at :
www.partworkupgrades.com
Arduino software can be downloaded from :
www.arduino.cc/en/software
The link to the Arduino Code, pictures and a 5 minutes reference video and all Enterprise screen grabs from TWOK can be found at :
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
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Support the channel and see the behind the scenes videos and blogs on my Patreon channel at
/ worldofwayne
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#startrek #polarlights #enterprise

[@WorldofWayneUK]

If you enjoyed this video or some of my other content please consider pressing the SUBSCRIBE button and hitting the BELL next to it so you get notified when I release a new video. You will find all the links and information you want in the expanded video description. If you have any questions or comments please leave them below. You can also see my behind the scenes video logs on my Patreon at www.patreon.com/worldofwayne

[@jdsimmie]

Hi Wayne, great build series. Especially likes the warts n all, very helpful. Sorry you're having the pain. I've used 2 ardunio nanos, so far so good. I do like the milk carton lid approach to hold the warp crystal blue/amber led. Now I'm putting the saucer together I thought you ought to know the lid actually needs 2-3mm trimming from the depth otherwise the saucer don't close. That with removing the 6 moldings on the lower saucers around the neck. HTH Tony

[@eddywells5689]

Looking awesome 🍺🍺💪💪🙏🙏💞💞🇦🇺🇦🇺

[@sagnhill]

Very nice. I would use a clear tape over the copper tape to protect the circuit. Just as a safety precaution.

[@MartinFutter70]

Well, at least you diagnosed the fault rather than having it happen again - good paint work, too 👍

[@jonathanlin9772]

The voltage regulator on the nano board would have failed either due to overvoltage or too much current draw or sourcing on the nano's external pins. Most nanos can only source or sink a hundred or so milli amps total anyway without additional power and driver circuits That is why we suggested on an earlier video to use rgb or rgbw neopixel LEDs instead for the lights that need to change state. Each individual neopixel contains a rgb or rgbw led with an integrated control ic and would use a separate power supply to the arduino, a common ground, and a chained data in line and data out line. Only a single arduino digital out pin is required to address and control the colour and intensity of all the individual neopixel LEDs on the chain with all power requirements coming from a separate 5v dc power source. Neopixels are available in strips, panels, or even individual pixels in ic, sewable mini pcb, or LED style packages.

[@WorldofWayneUK]

Thanks for this

[@Vondoodle]

Hurrah - I love the ground idea

[@bobbybates2614]

Hi wayne got on a train full of pilchards I suddenly realise I was on the sardine express LOL

[@bobbova8708]

The paint work is quite eye catching.Sorry to hear you experienced some issues but the most important part is that you are addressing said issues and moving forward! I always watching your builds Wayne, as eell as Phil and Lou Dalmaso,Oggie at interstellar models and a few others. I must say Thanks ! to all of you for sharing your experiences, both positive and negative and for helping many with similar builds.The copper tape as a ground is a fantastic tip,thanks Wayne!

[@VarosVapor]

Love this build Wayne, best I have seen, very well thought out and great craftsmanship. Glad to see you were able to re-engineer the wiring.

[@tachi98lep]

Nice build so far, can't wait for more content on the Enterprise!

[@jeremylister89]

One thing with electronics. Sometimes the main power supply can overshoot at turn on either due to poor design or due to a resonance or even hot plugging. This could be something like a 5 volt power supply overshooting to 7 volts for tens of milliseconds. This can be enough to kill some low voltage semiconductors. ( Me = PSU engineer for 44 years)

[@milanondrak5564]

I've done loads of electrical stuff in models but never used an ardweno nano. I usually make the flashing bits and animated light circuits myself.

[@sprueVerse]

Look awesome! Love your fix! Engage!

[@chrisfischer7918]

Sorry to hear that your project has come to an unexpected end. I was following along with all your videos and gave a thumbs-up. Any chance you'll pick this up again to finish the project? Would love to see the finished product.

[@WorldofWayneUK]

It's not at an end. I'm willmworkmon another part of it and rectify the problem later on

[@SEMJW]

Trivia; Exposed copper strips were used as a ground on the wooden portions of DeHavilland Mosquito and can be seen on the interior of the cockpit. K.I.S.S. for those who do not know is a philosophy promoted by designer Kelly Johnson known for the P-38 lightning fighter and the A-12/SR-71 blackbird aircraft. I have my project at a similar build stage. Using the Trekmodeler Warp 8 kit that I am modifying with more lights/effects. For the iridescent, Daler Rowney Shimmering inks over Tamiya white primer. The metallic particles in the ink are very fine to achieve a subtle/scale effect and mistakes can be easily fixed.

[@benjamindepaz8429]

Didn’t you do videos about the Eaglemoss Enterprise-D??? I couldn’t find them on your channel. Now that the Enterprise-D is available from Fanhome, I’ve ordered the subscription and was hoping to watch your videos. You’re the best KZbin channel for model building; I always watch your videos before opening my issues, just to make sure I don’t make mistakes.

[@WorldofWayneUK]

I'm going to be starting again from stage 1

[@benjamindepaz8429]

@@WorldofWayneUK Awesome!!! Looking forward to it.

[@robertherriges6807]

Wayne, great reboot. I've been using copper tape since the 70's for any low voltage common circuits. Just be careful when soldering as to not overheat it and melt the styrene underneath!

[@jeremylister89]

1/350 refit. Have one of these. Scared to start it. It's one of the early ones that cost £25. One model error that cannot be unseen once you've seen it is on the deflector housing. There are three sections that are parallel on the model but slightly tapered on the real thing. Nearly everyone misses this.

[@blackknight5690]

Hi Wayne sieht gut aus und das andere bekommst du auch hin es braucht zeit aber du schaffst das ich glaube ganz fest daran.

[@PitstainHobbies]

sorry about the electronics setback Wayne, these ships are quite the arduous path to completion, your paintwork is looking spot on!

[@mrtrek2117]

Very nice model!

[@robertherriges6807]

Just a thought, if you're having Buck converter issues, look into using a MB102 Breadboard Power Supply Module. It's 12 VDC in and 5 or 3.3 VDC selectable outputs

[@kevinlemoi7837]

Great videos Wayne! Thank you.

[@kevinlemoi7837]

Hi Wayne, quick question for you mate, I have the Monogram Star Trek Voyager model and I would like to add fiber optic lighting for this model. Do you know if they make a kit for this model or if they do not, can you point me in the right direction to make this happen?

[@chrisgwilliam9893]

👍🏻

[@bbaz6729]

I considered building this for a few years. Then Tomy came out with their replica so I ordered that.

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

good vid on channel thanks lee

[@kenbtheman]

I illuminated a ship model with LED lights a while back and found out the hard way that the light bleeds through the paint job. The second model I built I sprayed the entire inside with flat black to prevent this. I hope you don't experience this as this is a nice build you have there. I have this kit in my stash.

[@WorldofWayneUK]

Nope. I did the same. Flat black all over and the. The topcoat primer

[@TheRajputsHistory]

Good

[@jacobkrug]

cool

[@jamespearce9735]

Hi Wayne, enjoying the videos so far. is that gold on the impulse area in 4.32 already painted in Iridescent gold? doesn't seem to change color on the video, so was wondering if this is right

[@WorldofWayneUK]

It is iridescent but the strength of the studio lights doesn't show the effect pretty well

[@jamespearce9735]

@@WorldofWayneUK cheers for the response. Was thinking of getting these paints for my refit, so was hoping to see how well they work.

[@aztekdummy]

the impulse crystal should be inserted from the underside. just sayin'

[@WorldofWayneUK]

Lol. All fixed. It wasn’t actually attached. I put a bit of PVA to hold it in place 😊

[@dpv75]

I've always have had problems with that type of buck converter. Why can't you just use the usb-c connector and run 5v?

[@WorldofWayneUK]

The strip lighting needs 12v

[@markoneill4578]

We learn from our mistakes so as not to do it again in the future 🎉

[@TheRajputsHistory]

❤❤🎉🎉

[@larryhernandez6442]

World of Wayne u made a mistake the impulse Crystal should be on the inside of the saucer

[@WorldofWayneUK]

I tried that first and it looked weird

[@WorldofWayneUK]

Have now changed it. It was only seated with a thin PVA glue so was easy to change

[@jamesgarrison7397]

8 Months later, still waiting on Part 10, :(

[@WorldofWayneUK]

Soon