USS Enterprise Refit Polar Lights 1:350 Scale Build

USS Enterprise Refit, Polar Lights 1:350 Scale Model Build.
I took a break from writing books and filled in the gap with this project. Now that I'm done, I'm preparing the outline for my next novel. 😉
Also, check out my other Enterprise builds:
1:350 Polar Lights TOS Enterprise: • USS Enterprise TOS Pol...
1:600 Revell TOS Enterprise: • USS Enterprise Revell ...
Model Builds Playlist: • Model Builds
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[@dboconnor57]

This video made me cry, because I’m 60, watched the first episode with my father, and through all the things I’ve seen and done in my life including a large family, I am still a fan, and I still build models . Thank you so very much. Im silly, I know, but when I see the Enterprise, and hear the music, something sparks, and I’m a boy again. Take care, and… Live long, and Prosper

[@deadlyradiation7977]

Me too. I watch TOS as a kid of the 60's 🥲

[@ortizguard2816]

Please, teach others to build models so the art is never lost to time. Peace and long life.

[@jenniferbeyer6412]

I feel the same way. But I am 57 this year. I remember watching the original series and the moon missions with my father. Those are some of my favorite memories. I hope to build this model, it's my favorite Enterprise.

[@artbarkley9974]

Beautiful work, thanks very much for sharing! I have one of these hiding in my closet waiting to be built…your video clarified many questions I have about how to improve the whole building process.

[@ortizguard2816]

Could not stop smiling during the entire video. Brought back so many memories! Kept thinking humanity must build her!

[@DaveStarr4]

you did a great job on this ship and nailed the colors in the shuttle bay to the movie clips exactly .............WOW!

[@arnoldronning5471]

Awesome in the genuine definition of the word. You even created the impression of panels by airbrushing subtle shade variations onto the saucer and body. Bravo.

[@someadvids5655]

Hi, Fantastic mate just fantastic! love seeing these builds! nice one! take care and have a great day!

[@andreperrault5393]

Enterprise is as much of a character on the show and movies. You’ve done an outstanding job with skills and art. Your enjoyment of the model and the show comes through. Presented with music, it’s is pure optimism. Thanks

[@colonelklink53]

I got a TOS Enterprise model last Christmas that I've been scared to build. I haven't put together models since I was a kid. I've learned a lot since then by watching this and other videos. Thanks!

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

I'll tell you right now that the TOS is much easier than this undertaking. But it has it's difficult points. Here is my TOS Enterprise build: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZuaYoxpiLakraM

[@rickkephartactual7706]

I retired a few years ago and like you I always wanted to build one of the Polar Lights USS Enterprise. I bought the kit, a lighting and sound kit, different glues, paints and such. I was in for a rude awakening when I tried to cut pieces from the trees. I now have hands that shake too much for an endeavor like this so I will have to enjoy yours all the more. ;I'm not complaining, I had a really good life and if this is all I miss out on I really can't complain.

[@iancampbell8649]

Fantastic, well done.

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

Thank you!

[@22esprince]

It's a very nice build. My advice with applying large decals like that, especially with the Star Trek models, first of all you have to let the primer and paint and clear coat and whatever else it is on your model already cure for a few days. Half of what causes the silvering is that the paint is still drying even if it feels dry to the touch, and all that solve it is getting trapped underneath the decal. So let everything dry really good. Then when you're ready to put the decals on, hit the area you're going to apply the decal to with an ample amount of distilled water with a little Dawn dish soap in there so that the decals will slide around easier and won't get stuck while you're trying to position them. Along with the water, you're going to want to put a bit of microset on there. Do your best to get the decals on as nice and neat and in alignment as possible so that you don't have to do too much sliding around and adjusting. If you do have to adjust them, be very very careful. These things can stretch and get all messy when you push them around to forcefully. Sometimes helpful just to use a wet paint brush to gently push around the edges and if necessary you can use the bristles and get underneath and kind of lift the decal a little bit to get it unstuck. If it folds on itself, you can lift up whatever corner or Edge is stuck to itself, and use those paint bristles to very gently smooth out the wrinkles or get underneath the fold and unstick and smooth it out before laying it down flat again. Once you got it in position, grab a hold of one side with your fingers and use a paper towel or something to sort of smooth it out and push the air bubbles and water and stuff out from underneath as best you can. Once everything is about as smooth as you can make it, hit it with some microsol. Let it dry a little bit, if you see any significant air bubbles poke them with your hobbyknife and Pat them down and then apply some more microsole. Don't worry too much about wrinkles and bumps. It's going to look really messy as his drawing, but the less you do with it the better it will be. Like I said any significant air bubbles you can deal with with a hobby knife. But just keep hitting it with microsole. Let it dry for a while, come back hit it with some more. You'd be surprised how quickly all of the bumps and Imperfections seem to disappear when you use multiple coats of microsole. Then when you're done with everything, go over it with a gloss coat. I put all the decals on my Enterprise reset using this method and it came out looking almost perfect. No silvering. No bumpiness. No wrinkles. The trick is of course to be careful, don't mess with it too much even if it looks wrinkly and messy while it's drying, and just keep laying on that microsol until it looks smooth and silvering-free. If later on it looks like there's a bit of silvering, just hit it with some more microsol. Or hit it with the tester's decal-setting solution for the hardcore issues that are harder to fix. Once you're satisfied that everything is about as nice and neat as it can be, let everything cure for about 24 hours and that's that's when you apply that glossy clear coat. If you seriously screw up a part of one of these aztec decals just take your hobby knife and cut away the damaged section in a nice little square or rectangle or oblong or pie slice or something that looks like it belongs there. I have a couple places under the saucer where I had some issues and I just cut them in such a way that the missing gaps look like they are supposed to be there. Like they follow the contours of the surface and actually look kind of neat. One of these days I may go ahead and paint in the patterns that are missing, but honestly there's no need to. It would be better to have a neatly shaped gap in your Aztec pattern than an obviously messed up area.

[@JGG1701]

Beautiful Build. Thank you for sharing this.

[@stefanhutter2662]

9:57min goosebumps. Thanks, Sir!

[@marcosgilmonarquista2005]

Very Good, Brazil

[@Admiral8Q]

I have a model with lights from the 1990's. Only 2 feet long, but damn it Jim! Would love to finish it one of these days. Nicely done on yours.

[@jasondamico_webdev]

What a terrific nod to the 1701. Thank you for posting. I have the same unbuilt model kit sitting waiting to be brought to life. This is definitely inspiring! :)

[@timothye.2644]

This was excellent 👍🏼

[@TheGeezerGeek]

What I REALLY wish someone would come up with is the Aztek decals but in the 4 color iridescent pattern. With failing hands, I don't have the patience or skil to do all the masking myself. Also where did the bridge and rec hall models come from? I have 2 of the refit models and it only has lounge, hanger bay and arboretum.

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

I thought about this same thing. Might be way more expensive because I can see a lot more going into making them that way.

[@carlhardy364]

SWEET.

[@Ripfettic]

Nice job ! I tried that kit once almost finished it but I have kids and cats!

[@dieschonstendampflokomotiv5674]

Very beautyful 🥰

[@hendriknap45]

You did well

[@scottmcdonald7577]

Beautiful Job!

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

Thank you!

[@davidbakara5044]

I needed this today! Thank you!

[@fredhollis3999]

You built the best looking Enterprise I seen yet. 🖖

[@blackieskinner3073]

i have the yet to be built 1/650 scale enterprise with either the 1701 A decals or the 1701 motion picture decals, also have the 1701 D 1/650 fiber optic kit hoping to tackle this spring.

[@MartinCox-ny2rv]

Very nicely done! I have this model; wish i could have all Enterprise models in that scale. Also i couldn't do the same great job you did

[@DronemanJoeRc]

Excellent my friend I got mine and we are just starting the entire build and its quite a epic build, Im using the trekmodelers lighting and sound system in mine, and I hope mine looks as good as yours. Great Great Job!!!

[@jedarsena3001]

Looks fantastic! Doing this is something on my bucket list but I'm too afraid making a mess of it to spend the money buying parts

[@CAMgeek]

Great Videography and soundtrack. Great build also. The captions need to be timed longer and a contrasting color, I had to keep pausing the video to try to read them. That definitely reduces the enjoyment.

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

I was afraid of that. But I'm building another one later this year, and I'm jotting down all improvements I can make to both the ship and the video.

[@CAMgeek]

@@RyanKrolAuthor The shots, the build, and the information were great though. I did really enjpy the video. 😎

[@bleuocean6388]

congratulations excellent video editing as well as the final result. 😍 it makes me dream because I have the same kit but it is still in its box not yet had the courage to start.😔 Hello from France😉

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

Thank you for all of the comments! I also happen to be an author. Order here: linktr.ee/ryankrolauthor

[@hipflipped]

Looks pretty rough compared to a lot of other polar build out there. The hand painting is especially nasty.

[@NickMueh]

If only there was the real thing to tour. Oh well, one can dream of what it would be like to walk the decks on the constitution class.

[@Graftanker98]

What guage led wire should I use?

[@ashb1502]

how did you fix the pylon gap fitment issue? this is the step I am up to

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

File down the hooks underneath. I didn't do it enough though and hid it as much as I could with putty. Boyd at TrekWorks gives a great demonstration of this. I'm going to build another one later this year, an even better one.

[@kevinobrien4807]

Let me see if I got this the whole entire lower level of the Enterprise is a shuttle Bay. It is a hollow tube. I did not know that. I thought it was engineering. I think someone redesigned what the Enterprise was supposed to be from the inside.

[@22esprince]

No sir not quite. The shuttle Bay does extend almost to the front of the secondary Hall from the doors in the back, but the engineering deck sets on top right at the base of the neck, and going down the spine a little ways. Plus I think the warp core goes up the spine, or at least I know that it goes down through to the bottom of the secondary Hall just behind the back end of the shuttle bay. By the way the shuttle may you see here is divided into three sections, and the back sections are for storage. But in this model as in the motion picture, the partitions are wide open and all three rooms kind of flow together. Also in front of the shuttle Bay there is some deflector control stuff, and corridors wrapping around the side, and also the Arboretum deck sits below, with some corridors going down and some other things. If you go by Star Trek strange new worlds, there may be a cargo hold down there somewhere as well. In the back.

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

Yes, engineering extends above the bay all the way to just behind where the core splits into the nacelles. The core does go up the neck and the crystal is the very top, with the impulse engines right behind that. In SNW, it looks like engineering is one giant room behind the deflector housing. Reminds me of the interior of the Death Star turbo laser in The Force Unleashed.

[@armydoc11301966]

Just how old were you when you made this? I think it's a fair Question. No offense intended.

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

41.

[@enterprisecreations1492]

Everyone seems to be gushing over this, without any constructive feedback. So here is some - 1 - The paint job is sloppy. All over. I suggest investing in an air brush which would have given you a much better over all paint job 2 - Work on your seams. So many seems went ignored and it shows. 3 - Decal work is sloppy. Many areas show ripples and air pockets.

[@realitycheck60]

Nice but way too many light leaks.

[@jimbophoenix]

Where?

[@realitycheck60]

The deflector dish housing has such a big gap it looks like it's ready to fall off. The impulse crystal should be amber not red. I can see light showing through the seams all along the secondary hull as well as the area where the neck attaches the secondary hull. There are gaps at the base of both pylons front and back that should have been filled as well as the back of the fantail. I have built 10 of these for customers and if they looked like this they wouldn't pay for them. Also there are a lot of painted areas that are lumpy or have gobs of paint.

[@JGG1701]

@@realitycheck60 I think the key to this video is this guy built this for himself. He DID NOT build it for someone else. A beautiful build nonetheless. 🙂💯

[@lyndonbrock8684]

@@realitycheck60 it's a total mess. It's like Stevie wonder painted it.

[@brianmorrison4330]

This is not a good build, sloppy

[@lyndonbrock8684]

It's a shame you didn't do the model justice, the painting is awful. Such a waste of aftermarket parts.

[@JGG1701]

Let's see your build sir. 🙂

[@RyanKrolAuthor]

I recommend looking into actual studio models used in film and television. The amount of blemishes will make these avid modelers feel like they're over doing it. It's the lighting that makes the difference. If George Lucas did close ups of the ships in amateur lighting on the first three Star Wars movies, they'd all look like sloppy toys.

[@JGG1701]

Have you ever heard that old saying, "if you haven't got something nice to say, don't say anything at all?"🤔 BTW ,let's see your build. 😉

[@davidward9487]

It's a shame you don't have any manners. I'm an experienced builder and it was a difficult build. Anyone that has the courage to build this and at least try deserves a round of applause.

[@lyndonbrock8684]

Search for Lyndon Brock