Build Your Own Underwater Drone with 3D Printed Parts!

[@CPSdrone]

Thanks for having us on!

[@DaveEverett01]

Wonderful job guys. And the 1st time in many years, a project on this channel that feels complete.

[@CPSdrone]

Thank you!

[@Claudiu.]

Very cool project. Looks so professionally made and it seems to function perfectly in the pool. Congratulations guys! Nice idea to have the course shared. Looking forward to see your channel videos. Cheers!

[@CPSdrone]

Thanks! We already have one video on there, explaining the design more in depth.

[@Zanzubaa]

It looks near professional and you can tell a lot of thought has been put into it. I think powering and controlling the sub using a wire was a good choice. It alleviates many problems such as messing with batteries and RF communication through water. It also makes the sub much easier to retrieve if something goes wrong. Really great work lads and ty for video.

[@Aldo.flores]

I been following this project for a while now, I’m glad to see it featured here cause it’s a very interesting under water drone with many applications on the industry and the best companion for divers and sailors

[@MINDoSOFT]

Wow this project looks awesome !!! You really know your stuff !!! Keep up the good work guys.

[@CPSdrone]

Thank you so much!

[@NGinuity]

If you need it water-tight I would either use an SLA printer that takes UV Resin (the UV causes the resin to crosslink into polymer when free radicals are produced and then form covalent bonds) or FDM print a pattern, mold the pattern negative, and use epoxy for your part.

[@CPSdrone]

Haven't tried this solutions. Molds sound like a good option but a lot of work. SLA printers are not often large enough but it should probably work. Thanks a lot for the ideas!

[@bobahnjr]

Very Good Fellas ! I have just recently built two subs that have taught me you can't waterproof the hulls ! Currently my latest design is remarkedly similar to yours . Keep up the good work !!! (your never to old to play ,,,I'm 69... )

[@PeterHertel]

Looks great! For waterproofing we have a local product called Borup Vandglas which I believe is natrium silica you can brush on. I know some people use it to make printed flower pots watertight

[@CPSdrone]

Yeah, we even tried similar solutions to that one as well but it's hard to reliably make it waterproof to depths of 10 meters +

[@saveplanet3977]

Very good work and very well explained. Wish your team a great success for all your future projects.

[@mrinmoybanik5598]

Wow nice and aerodynamic design! Only the tether looks so restricting! Isn't there a way to use a diy acoustic modulator to send signals wirelessly to a floating buoy which intern can relay it back to the base station through radio waves? I guess there will be bandwidth issues but i wanted to try it out!

[@prestonknodelliii838]

Excellent work. For sealing did you try printing a shell with a groove in it for a custom urethane O-ring ? Another low cost option might be plastic welding of the edges upon final assembly.

[@geodive5542]

Have you thought of trying to use water tanks instead of the motors used to pull the drone along the y axis. It would be more energy efficient than using motors to power the upward/downward propulsion.

[@bernyshomstein9723]

How much thrust do the thrusters put out? I have more than a few UW camcorder housings. And every year I say I'm going to make an ROV using one.. I would use the electronics and thrusters and put a battery in the ROV. On

[@sdoitla1431]

Well done.

[@CPSdrone]

Well thanks.

[@jamesbradley582]

Great video, could you coat the outside,and inside with epoxy resin?

[@Endoplasmic-Reticulum]

I always make my original shapes with a powder printer, then create molds from there. I then add silicone gaskets. I can get 100 feet of depth or 300 if I enclose using deionized water. The camera optics are the only area that’s given me difficulty due to the air gap required for my particular camera.

[@CPSdrone]

Very cool. We don't have a powder printer but when we get one we will definitely give 3D prints another try!

[@Endoplasmic-Reticulum]

@@CPSdrone I personally recommend a Z Corporation printer. They are ancient but the powder can be a high end plaster and Sake. You use cyanoacrylate as a penetrant, then the items you print are hard as a rock. While the prints aren’t as hardy as SLA prints, the speed and resolution are unmatchable. I am well versed in powder printers, so hit me up for questions any time. Look up Zprinter 350. 😊

[@the_omg3242]

@@Endoplasmic-Reticulum There's a printer version of the superglue/baking soda hack?

[@Endoplasmic-Reticulum]

@@the_omg3242 To cure a ZCorp 3D print, you use ZBond penetrant but it’s not interacting with any baking soda. I’ve tried adding baking soda to my powders but the thermal runaway is too severe. I can attest to the hardness of a penetrated print though… it’s much harder than baking soda/super glue reaction.

[@jaredappleseed7037]

Very cool gajek

[@CPSdrone]

Thanks!

[@drsaif343]

Awesome 👌!!!

[@CPSdrone]

Thank you👌!!!

[@DirtyPlumbus]

Very impressive. 👍

[@trickies]

very cool, where are you from if I may ask

[@georgeaura]

Very awesome

[@CPSdrone]

Very thanks

[@georgeaura]

How much does it cost to make this in comparison to just buying one?

[@CPSdrone]

It depends on what drone you want to buy. One that is closest to this one would be a Gladius Mini, which would cost you about $1200. And the CPS is about $750 in parts.

[@LUCIANOMARIANI]

Gr8 ;)

[@MAYERMAKES]

I suddenly get the urge to eat a metric ton of pierogi. And do some project with water...

[@CPSdrone]

It's the best.

[@Martin-Friman]

You should power it with PoE instead ;)

[@CPSdrone]

Yeah, would be awesome but the voltage is unfortunately too low if we have 100 meters of wire (as we do now).

[@Martin-Friman]

@@CPSdrone You can get 100W with PoE 802.3bt

[@taurusdulman5728]

can u give me one plz plzzzzzzzz