Builder vs. the Clock: (Ep.6) Prepping the Frame for Inspection

[@daichimax]

... an old wolf also requires a pencil sharpener at hand!!! 👍👍👍👍👍 ... I got one too. Hugs!

[@robertszynal4745]

I'm really enjoying these fresh uploads as I wasn't here for the originals. It's inspiring to watch!

[@eliinthewolverinestate6729]

We tend to install vapor barrier on outside here. But some states and Canada do install on inside. We have been setting windows more towards the inside with thermal break casing for heat savings. Less window sill to be cold and less heat transfer. But windows here are like r7 at best.

[@linus_staf]

Yep. Moisture barriers go on the warm side of the wall, so it depends on how warm the climate you live in is. Here in Sweden it is typically always colder outside the house, sometimes even during summer.

[@gerry5084]

🤞🙏 I have every confidence

[@sapienscarnivorus]

Insulating a Woodbuilding is so much easier than insulating a Stone building.

[@herbrotter]

I have to agree with you on that. Depending on the insulation material, you might need other materials on the stone for sealing the surface. Either way, you have to loose real estate to create a thermal break. which is govern by the insulation you use. For example, with closed cell spray foam, you need at least 1.5 inches as a minimum for the vapor barrier and get some thermal resistance before the framing.

[@CharlieZenenour]

@@herbrotterstone is vapour open, you need vapour open materials on it or it’ll start to condense the surface on the material (stone) and decay it. Cement, foam, plastics, mineral wool, glass fibre, gypsum, osb and plywood are common materials in construction NOT to be used in stone, brick or historical buildings because such structures work with vapour open diffusion to stay dry. If you use any material that’s poor in vapour permeability with structures that work in vapour open diffusion (high vapour permeability) it i’ll create damp and mildew issues until the structure collapses from structural damage caused by water aka condensation of vapour.

[@herbrotter]

@@CharlieZenenour That is why you have to read the specification sheets of the products. Know your products to prevent condensation. In my early days when submitting submittals to engineers and architects, it was like taking a test. They want to know the properties of the product and what was the cause and effect in their project. Today, that is out the window. Further more, most professionals that are not seasoned do not know which product to use. When it comes to foam, this is especially true. Most people thick that the ICF forms are vapor closed. EPS is open vapor and that is why the manufactures want you to seal with recommended products on the exterior side to prevent that damp and mildew issues unless the client has money for a true 5000 + psi mix. Yes, masonry is vapor open and concrete pending on the specification of the mix determines if it is vapor open. In buildings, that you described, the inside which is know as the negative side, the good professionals will specify a vapor barrier to combat the effect and maintaining the exterior side as the drying area. This has now become a common practice in my area. This products are not cheap. Using closed cell spray foam with a density greater than 2 will accomplish this as long as at least 1.5 inches. We normally spray 2 inches before the framing. Between floors there are other details to combat condensation buildup. To use common building materials in stone, brick or historical buildings, know the products for both the inside and outside.

[@stout8529]

Nice series! What are the dimensions of the house foundation?

[@mindsparx1]

Hi, it's around 90 square meters or 23'x41' with half cellar and second floor

[@stout8529]

@@mindsparx1hi! Thanks, for the answer. Foundation is like 7x12 meters then? European here :)

[@mindsparx1]

@@stout8529 Yes, something like that

[@jeffreyjacobs6072]

👍🤠

[@dudugottems7196]

Half a meter insulation bro, what temperature do in the winter? My home in south Brasil is very cold at -2 degrees Celsius 15cm brick wall

[@mindsparx1]

We once had -34 so it can be very cold...

[@robertszynal4745]

@@mindsparx1 Wow! I'm in the UK so I'm only building for -2c average. The coldest we have seen in my area is -10c. My house is brick and block construction with cavity wall insulation blown in. I'm adding 100mm EPS external insulation and have already installed 150mm PIR in the roof (100mm below the rafters and 50mm between to allow a 50mm ventilation gap on the outside). It is also a concrete floor so I am adding 50mm PIR to the floor then a 50mm screed on top with under floor heating pipes in it.

[@ClassicCase]

Yea no, this climate here can literally kill you in 30 minutes if you step outside without the right clothes on. Even with those clothes, you can only spend a limited time outside and away from an artificial heat source.

[@AM-hf9kk]

This wall construction seems unnecessarily complicated. Building a 2"x6" wall with batts inside and a combined closed-cell foam vapor barrier plus sheathing (like ZIP-R) outside is more elegant.

[@CharlieZenenour]

Hope you have a good health insurance in america cause the usa government surely isn’t paying for medical bills. And good luck with the health conditions after living in that.

[@AM-hf9kk]

@@CharlieZenenour No one cares about your politics pal.

[@CharlieZenenour]

@@AM-hf9kk I’m not talking about politics, I’m talking about your health lol.