A60 Reinforcing the bonnet (clamshell), Arete Supercar Project.

[@stedyroc0078]

The Bob Ross of DIY Car building! You Rock man!

[@KoaBosk]

"Just needs a happy little Kevlar over here"

[@scottwiater2699]

Just watching you work I feel like I need a break from working but I'm just sitting on the couch.

[@SteveBueche1027]

This has got my full attention. I’ll never build one but the skills can be applied to many other areas of my life’s hobbies. Thank you.

[@BuilderCreator]

For sure! For complex shapes- composites are the bomb!

[@94JAVS]

I love this project. I'm dieing to see this car entering the paint booth and ripping a burnout its way out of your shop. Keep it up man, you are doing something extraordinary.

[@richardsmith9509]

ripping a burnout will break this car in half... His composite work is terrible but he is admittedly trying really hard...

[@pauloazevedo5849]

Hello. Since I started to follow this project, I have really appreciated your way of working. This is due to the careful and well-organized pace, carrying out each stage efficiently. And yet showing that a project well done takes a lot of work. Congratulations. Paulo Azevedo (from Brazil)

[@BuilderCreator]

Paulo, welcome from the land north! Glad you found the channel. I'll try to keep up the organized efficiency. ;)

[@sorry-but-im-italiano5958]

day by day even more beautiful, super great job !!

[@tonyunderwoodmusic1607]

Liked the use of epoxy/micro sphere for reinforcement compared to foam strips! Also like the way you use Kevlar for various impact resistance. Looking forward to paint!

[@BuilderCreator]

Plus keeps my cake decorating skills up to snuff. Ha!

[@Yusuf-nk8fl]

Very good workrate sir! Keep it up I'm looking forward to see the future process!

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

1:38 - I would have never thought to use a multi-tool here. Clever!

[@BuilderCreator]

Best thing since the angle grinder!

[@miredquadrangle3963]

Another great video

[@SirCumsALot_779]

Looks so cool

[@bentobekker369]

This man be wildin

[@johnkeller9290]

Amazing.. You are an artist.

[@Jmdeclue]

Love the project, it appears to be going great. And a tip, don’t give those with the “Google Degrees” any daylight, many seem to think going down a rabbit hole of youtube and/or wikipedia is a replacement for expertise, experience and reality with a big R. They do not deserve the time for a well thought out rebuttal, nor do they deserve one. Looking forward to the next episode.

[@BuilderCreator]

Worse are the few who DO know something and try to keep their elevated position by thrashing your work rather than "true" help and camaraderie. I really laugh when I get comments about how they hate to see the butcher job I'm doing, but come back week after week after week . . masochists! Ha! Thanks for the support!

[@pablomorales7265]

🦾 looking forward seeing it finish once u done lest see how fast it will go 👍

[@andrewyoung3365]

Great job brother

[@alanjeff3114]

Abraços diretamente do Brasil meu amigo, e sucesso no seu projeto!!!

[@dave5833]

AAAHHHH so you are a contractor/developer ?? Great job as always

[@BuilderCreator]

Only building for myself nowadays. Still designing for another contractor when I need money to play. ha!

[@BallinBuilds]

man those wheels are nice👌

[@BuilderCreator]

4 comment s above doesn't like the wheels as much. Ha! thanks for your enthusiasm.

[@LuvMyGT500]

I’m curious, is there a fine balance between structural integrity and weight? It seems like you add a lot of structural layers and I’m curious if this will negatively effects the cars performance characteristics when done.

[@ForeverNeverwhere1]

The nature of the beast alas, budget making it up as you go along one off fabrication =over weight.

[@BuilderCreator]

Read the response to Raven Creations in these comments . .to long for me to answer again. I might add a note here just for you though- I just weighed the hood-7lbs. Will likely be at 9-10 lbs max when finished. I could have got it to 6lbs for an additional $2500.

[@karl-heinzjohannsen7764]

This is aweeeeysome maaaaan.....

[@bradmaas6875]

Can't wait for color

[@BuilderCreator]

That will be a great day!

[@bradmaas6875]

@@BuilderCreator no doubt

[@Josh-pj9kv]

If you dont mind me asking what subjects did you do at Uni and what category would something like this lay under when you are studying

[@BuilderCreator]

I took 1 year of an automotive program thinking it would get me going in design, but it was just a glorified auto mechanics class. Decided not to let school interfere with my education after that. If you do have to go to university try "Industrial Design."

[@Josh-pj9kv]

@@BuilderCreator Thanks

[@MrOzzyCam]

@@BuilderCreator it sounds like how I learnt to do electronics and computers. Colleges and universities are good at teaching you what is the standard practice, what you can't do and why you shouldn't try. Having taught myself electronics from age 9 and computers from around 16 years old, I am now 56 and I have a Master's of Science but the Master's came because of what I could do, it was by thesis, not from what I had been "taught".

[@tomnwoo]

Epic as always

[@IngeBall]

What kind of hinge will you use? I assume it will tilt forwatd. Great job btw.

[@BuilderCreator]

Yes, the front clamshell will tilt forward- Semi-articulated scissor hinge.

[@1talha686]

Hey, great work. Have you ever tested the durability of fiberglass panels against fire? I couldn't find any on KZbin. Would you mind demonstrating it in one video?

[@richardsmith9509]

It is hardly fantastic and in this build, has never been a consideration

[@BuilderCreator]

Any consideration for fire resistance is in the formulation of the epoxy itself. Fire could be easily propagated in the epoxy I am using and leave you with nothing but charred fiberglass. Fire resistant panels are usually built with phenolics as they have properties more suited.

[@ubacow7109]

Why isn't fiberglass used in production cars anymore?

[@BuilderCreator]

Still used in lots of cars!

[@TheCooperville]

Love your videos,have you considered sinus surgery it changed my life

[@jHftw]

lets goooo!

[@austinkerns4928]

Now just curious approx. How much fiber glass have you used and what weight s-glass

[@BuilderCreator]

I think I have used about a hundred yards of 9oz S-glass plus an assortment of other weights and tapes.

[@Hugojosecor]

Fantastic!

[@JanEringa8k]

Are you planning on using nonwoven (Chopped Strand Mat) sheets in this project?

[@BuilderCreator]

I used mat in the molds, but will only be using cloth and tapes in the parts themselves. As a side note: I am using epoxy in the body parts and epoxy takes a terribly long time to break down the binder in chopped strand mat. It just does not work as well with epoxy as it does with vinyl/polyester.

[@mosescortez9193]

How do you keep the fiberglass from cracking after chassis vibrations.

[@BuilderCreator]

A material that is can expand and contract with temperature, (the main problem) is almost always good at vibration isolation as well. Rubber and urethane the most common.

[@JarvieDigital]

Oh am I first or second comment ... does that mean I get to brag about it? Do I win a free car or design job at least? Thanks I'll take my reward August of 2020

[@kristenclark2237]

2020? you got your reward already... yip

[@JamesCairney]

Those awards are only given out on the 54th of Septober, occasionally on Jantember the -3rd, but only when the moon is in retrograde, maybe.

[@BuilderCreator]

I always just delete the first comment!

[@sobduino800]

dose the car start?

[@BuilderCreator]

Haven't started it since the rebuild.

[@harisrafi3932]

Why you make these stripes please tell

[@BuilderCreator]

Stiffening and strengthening.

[@harisrafi3932]

@@BuilderCreator you tell me how to attach fiber glass panel to chasis but when you will it with your car so please show it more carefully

[@abrarhussain492]

How to make door of this car ?

[@BuilderCreator]

I have a video of laying up the door skins (exterior). You can find that videoin in the playlist. The interior shells are not built yet. videos coming soon.

[@94JAVS]

You should consider putting the alfa romeo 5 hole wheels on the car. The ones the 4C has or the more modern ones of the Giulia. I think those wheels would match the whole round and sporty aesthetic of you car. The ones you are wearing right now give me a generic/cheap sporty look. Not trying to offend anyone who likes them, they are cool. But the Alfa 5 hole wheels have a more sophisticated look.

[@BuilderCreator]

Send me a set. Ha!

[@richardsmith9509]

Jay, dry roving on a dry hood wetted from the top only is bad technique....you don't get it

[@deviansurya7]

This car inspired by ford gt

[@BuilderCreator]

More from Pininfarina designs of the 60s

[@Raven-Creations]

I love the project, but I'm increasingly concerned that the composite structure is going to end up being much heavier than you'd want in a supercar. The strength of composites comes from keeping the resin to fibre ratio to a minimum. Wet layup is by far the worst method to achieve this. To make up for the lack of strength, you need to create thicker panels, or add extra stiffening, making them even heavier. Using Nomex core for lightness, then using wet layup just doesn't make any sense, either mechanically or economically. Instead, you can get foam core with honeycomb channels that is designed for the infusion process, and creates a resin honeycomb instead of the Nomex and creates light but strong panels. From comments made in earlier videos, I think you've greatly overestimated both the effort needed to learn CAD/CAM, and also the effort and cost required to use vacuum infusion. Using CAD, which for someone with your background would be easy to learn, you'd have been able to identify the interference issue at design time, similarly the problem with the rear clamshell hitting the roof when opening. Even if you don't use CAM to create the moulds, you can get accurate printouts of the cross sections to make your plug(s). Using resin infusion, and vacuum bagging (nowhere near as hard or costly as you suggest), you could create strong, lightweight pieces, and you could have incorporated closed-cell foam to construct the strengthening ribs at the start. I would estimate that your composite structures could be half the weight, with the same or better strength, by using CAD to avoid the need for re-engineering things like stiffening and hard points, and resin infusion with vacuum bagging to ensure optimum resin-fibre ratio. I'd also be surprised if it turned out more expensive, because you'd be using much less resin and fibre. You should check out the Easy Composites channel who did a great 3-video tutorial series on creating a complete car bonnet (i.e. not just the skin) in carbon fibre using infusion with a mould taken off a production car. The result was superb - incredibly light and strong. You should also check out the Dark Aero project (also on KZbin). Although they are not working from a garage, their composite work is definitely within the home-constructor's grasp. I'm not affiliated with either of these channels, just a fan of their work.

[@BuilderCreator]

Sorry, this time I'm going to have to tell you you are just plain wrong on most points, but all because of one reason- Budget! I will have to take the weight penalty, because I refuse to let this project grow and grow and grow. Let's compare a few costs- My molds= $3,000. Molds with wide flanges for infusion/bagging and strong enough not to distort under vacuum= $8,000 (conservatively). Lets add another $2,000 for molds of rear side clamshells for stiffening (the job this video just described). **$10,000** Foam core- 4x8 1 inch construction sheets used - 2 @ $17= $34 industry standard vinyl foam- 3x4 1/2 inch sheets= 8 @ $69=$552. Vacuum bag supplies to form the hood would have been about $90 (as listed today on Fiberglas.com website.) Not that expensive for one mold, but I have 11 pieces! Sure, some are smaller, but we would also have to remember that the tub would have to be broken down into more parts (likely 6), so now we are talking $1200 or so for vac bagging. I have most of these supplies on hand, but I think you get the point. With a $25,000 budget (now 30K) I would be seriously stripping my engine and mechanical budget. Why stop there? why not go with carbon fiber? Instead of 400 yards of glass at $7/yard try 400 at $40/yrd= $16,000 (but if your going to step up the game to that point you cant use scraps/small pieces in the layup, you have to use full sheet cutouts. So it would likely be more like $40K. You are right however on the fact that I could probably learn 3D modeling fast . . I sure hope so, because I just bought Solidworks at $2000/year. . $3.50/day -- the clock is ticking!

[@Raven-Creations]

@@BuilderCreatorYou clearly haven't looked at the Easy Composites videos, have you? You're so far off the mark in your costings I'm flabbergasted. I can only assume you're confusing vacuum infusion with vacuum bagging for autoclave (which is a different kettle of fish). Infusion vacuum bagging only requires a small flange and it doesn't have to be especially strong, neither does the mould. They are subjected to atmospheric pressure from both sides, so they are in equilibrium. There is zero tendency to distort under vacuum (assuming you're doing it right), and it uses room-temperature cured resin, so there's no heat distortion. Please do watch their series (actually I'd recommend all of their videos), cost out what they did, scale it up to your project, and come back with a realistic costing. The first episode is here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5iup3etZqppZqc Using their prices (not necessarily the best) I've costed up your bonnet, assuming it is around 2 square metres. For Soric foam core, peel ply, infusion mesh, bagging film, bagging sealing tape, infusion coil, and disposable tubing it would come to about £22. That's for all of the additional items compared to wet layup. I've not included resin or fibre, because that's your choice. However, since you'd use less resin and fibre for equivalent strength, you would recoup a lot of the extra. Also, because of the size of your project, the costs would come down significantly if you purchased everything at once. When I suggested integrating ribs of rigid, closed-cell foam, I was only talking of inch-wide strips similar to what you've done, just part of the initial infusion. Even though the foam is relatively expensive, compared to the cost of the project, their cost is negligible, yet you can produce the same strength as the double-skinned bonnet in the videos without needing a separate mould for an inner skin. You could have used your existing moulds - they're probably stronger than the ones they create in the above video, so there's no extra cost there. If you were to consider CF, I estimate that their double-skinned bonnet cost around £120 in fibre and resin (not including the mould). Since you would need more fibre and resin, to end up with a comparable strength part in glass fibre, CF is not really that much more expensive. Prices for CF in the US do seem high; the 200g 2x2 twill in the video is £9/sqm (£7.50 sq yd). The best US price I've seen was $20/sq yd. Good luck with the CAD. Learn the basics, then start using it. When you don't know how to do something, look for a tutorial. That way you're not learning stuff you may never need, and won't get overwhelmed.

[@BuilderCreator]

@@Raven-Creations I am talking the same process (room temperature infusion) Maybe we both suffer from EFDE (exaggeration for dramatic emphasis), but I just looked and indeed US Composites, almost always the least expensive, has 160g 2x2 carbon for just over $30 (21.50) yrd. If I buy a full roll. enough to do the car= $12,000 (8,600). This doesn't change my 'budget" problem. The molds 'Do" have to be especially strong and have a significant flange. Not for the atmospheric pressure, but that after the infusion, that part isn't changing. Any distortion in the mold and no parts will line up. If you think a small flange is okay, you have never chased a vacuum leak in hair puling frustration. I have watched the Easy Composites videos. Mind you, I am not against Infusion or carbon fiber. I am showing people how to do this less expensively. In fact, I sometimes kick myself for not building a $10,000 dollar rolling bathtub, as $30,000 has scared a lot of young people away. This channel is to inspire people to go build something, rather than how to obtain an expensive car. It may as well have been built from Unobtainium as carbon. CAD- I have the basics. I have been using AutoCAD for 30 years (off and on) for architectural drawing. That experience has taught me that I can fly in 2d drawing, but trying my hand at 3D Studio, Blender and Fusion 360 . . It is going to take me a while to get proficient. Maybe if I didn't have cars to build, 2 houses to maintain (one with remodels going on) 2 house plans to finish, A CNC machine to wire, A 3D printer to assemble, church duties and keeping my wife happy . . . I could master it in a few months. Ha! Good chatting.

[@ElectricPaoloIAM]

Fourth

[@fattydubs918]

third

[@Josh-pj9kv]

First 😂

[@fusebox173]

Hello, nice work. Please use metric for your international audience.

[@BuilderCreator]

I'll try to be more conscience of weights and measures talk, as about 50% of the audience is Metric. ;)

[@kokiekokiee2974]

Good job but you concentrate to much in one piece and talk to much about one thing

[@BuilderCreator]

Way back, when I did monthly videos, people cried that I did not go into enough detail . . can't please them all.