Building A 009 Model Railway In A Suitcase - Episode 2

[@JohnSmithShields]

Thank you for showing things can go wrong. So many layout builders only show what goes perfect. This will inspire people to keep going, when things are going against them!!!!!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

I definitely think it’s important to show when I don’t get it right and things don’t go to plan. As you say it lets people know that they’re not the only ones who face these problems and hope will keep them inspired! Thanks for watching 😃

[@nigelcole1936]

Great video and the layout looking really good. Sorry to see the problem with the ballasting - I totally do feel your pain. Look forward to seeing the next instalment

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks Nigel, it's certainly progressing! Yes the ballasting issue was a big one and something I think a few of us can relate to. I do think it's important to highlight mistakes like this though rather than edit around them, just so that you can see it doesn't always work first time for me either. Thanks for watching 🤩

[@nigelcole1936]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Yes, unfortunately, we all encounter problem from time to time and its both honest and useful to see when issues occur... very much looking forward to how the unintentional cliff-hanger is resolved.

[@mandbhomestead]

That is looking great. As for the running of the glue, fingers crossed it works out. Thanks for being honest about everything. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks Ken, I do think it's best to be honest rather than pretend everything works perfectly. I think a lot of us have had issues with ballasting in the past and I'm far from immune from that. As slick as I try to make my videos sometimes I do have to hold my hands up and admit I messed up 😂 Thanks for watching 👍

[@Alex-cw3rz]

Will you be doing a breakdown of costs once you've finished, I'd much appreciate that

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Hi Alex, yeah I am planning to do a rough breakdown if I can although it'll be a bit of an approximation as a lot of things I already had in stock from my other layout. Thanks for watching 😃

[@nicholasbishop3300]

What a bugger That's modelling I'm sure that you will find a way to overcome this messy problem. Chin up mate This is fantastic little project and I really appreciate your professionalism in the way you go about producing videos. Nick Australia

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

It's definitely modelling indeed! I think we've all faced problems like this at some point 😂 As for the solution, you'll have to tune in next week to find out what happens. Glad you're enjoying the videos and thanks for watching 😃

[@bimmingham]

love this series so far! it doesn't gloss over mistakes and mishaps, which i find makes it a much more encouraging series to newer modellers as they don't have to worry about how everyone else gets it right and perfect! looking forward to the next episode! (of course i am hopeful the points'll work again, wouldn't want to spend more money on redoing them again and creating a massive annoyance)

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks Harry! I definitely think with all my videos it's important to show when I mess up or things don't go to plan. I certainly don't want anyone thinking that I'm an expert, I'm just an average modeller with a video camera 😂 Thanks for watching 👍

[@Hiawatha_Productions]

I think the track painting method you used for the sleepers is really good. The white helps add that dry effect they tend to have on some lines

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

It does look good doesn't it! The white definitely seems really odd at first but as the brown and black go on afterwards it all comes together. It's a nice subtle effect but does make quite a difference! Thanks for watching 😃

[@trainguy69]

cant wait to see the progress!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Was great to have you in the chat earlier! Thanks for watching along 😃

[@railfanpolska]

Brilliant footage! Cheers 🙋‍♂️

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching 😃

[@H.O.Scalemodeler4501]

Gonna be awesome! I’ve just ordered some n gauge switches so by the time this video goes up hopefully I’ll have my track laid!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Ah brilliant! Hope you got your track laid and thanks for watching 😃

[@edsutherland8266]

For anyone not so keen on soldering, you can actually buy D-Sub Breakout boards, with screw terminals. That way you can still take advantage of the single connecting cable, without needing to solder connections. It also has the big advantage that it reduces the chances of a loose strand of wire causing a short circuit.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah I’m definitely going to do this in the future if I ever use D Subs again! Thanks for watching 😃

[@edsutherland8266]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy It’s coming along really well! I’m certainly tempted into doing OO9, especially space-wise!

[@nigelericogden3200]

Another entertaining episode, thank you … one of these days I’ll get my own 009 layout underway … oh for more time !! All the best

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks Nigel, glad you enjoyed it! I will say that there has never been a better time to start in 009 with all these lovely new RTR locos coming out. Thanks for watching 😃

[@Fluff3H]

startin to shape up, looking good. You could use isoprobyl alcohol to remove the glue, itll certainly break all that glue up its just weather you can get it out of the functioning parts of the points!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks! Yeah its definitely a great start… let’s just hope I can get the points working again 😂 Thanks for watching 👍

[@RackwitzG]

Seeing a video of someone actually building a suitcase layout was a treat. To my experience, tapping the rails when ballasting makes the sand vibrate up against the inner side of the rail (usually to one side). If you then apply the glue, you'll fix some grains in that position. Then the switches are a problem and you screwed up pretty good. Why did you apply so much glue? I mean, you flooded the rails. It is enough to put just enough glue to see the grains of the ballast shining through the glue. It will seep in an fix all the grains rock hard. Removing all the glue and ballast grains later is hell. Well, you learned your lesson.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Tapping the rails to remove that ballast does take a bit of practice but once you get there it's very satisfying to see the ballast just jump off the sleepers and down into the gaps. With the glue I was still very much in 00 mode so I added what I normally would for that, forgetting that of course the glue still spreads out the same amount regardless of the scale 😅 Thankfully it was an easy job to put right in the end. Thanks for watching 👍

[@paulisnotonfire]

I had that same thing with the points happen to me (though I also had ballast in the points). Didn't realise I'd been too liberal with the watered down PVA around the points. Cleaned up around the blades and the switch part and every little while would just flick the points back and forth and they still work absolutely fine. Will say though that I don't have any point motors, so I didn't have that to worry about. Another really interesting episode. Cheers

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah it’s definitely not the easiest problem to deal with! You’ll have to tune in next week to see how I got on. Thanks for watching 😃

[@markwilliamson2864]

Great video. Maybe the fine ballast absorbed your glue mixture very slowly (more tightly packed), hence the glue spread?

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Possibly, I think it's a more simple error on my part. I'm used to ballasting 00 gauge track and while 009 track is smaller, the glue still spreads out the same amount 😅 Thanks for watching 👍

[@williamsworkshopuk]

If the conductivity is lost, use the throw of the point to power the ashes section of rail via and additional switch on the point motor

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Unfortunately as these are set track points and the point motors I used don’t have that capability that’s not really an option. I don’t want to give anything away but tune in next week to see the resolution 😉 Thanks for watching 👍

[@railwayjade]

Good luck with your points, its a very expensive lesson! Always apply less glue mix near the points and touch up later. Thanks for showing us everything, we can also learn from that mistake. In one of your first shots of putting down the glue, you were quite a distance from the points and thought it was to avoid this. In this instance, I believe you used less ballast than if you had put down a roadbed, remember that the point of making the ballast wet with alcohol or adding a drop of washing up liquid to the glue is to make sure it seeps into everything. I hope you can come right with the situation!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yes I always ballast the points later on using a different technique after the glue has set on the rest of the layout. I think I was just still in OO Gauge mode and forgot that there's less distance between the end of the plain track and the start of the points. You'll have to tune in next week to see what happens though. Thanks for watching 😃

[@railwayjade]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy I'm excited to see! Keep well!

[@Legomastr365]

My friend and I did the same thing with our points on the Mk I layout we made lol. The trains still work but the track itself isn't good so on the Mk II we're switching over to Peco track. Good luck with fixing the issue!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Oh no, well I can definitely feel your pain! I have to admit I do think Peco track is much better than Hornby though so I think you've made the right decision there. Thanks for watching 😃

[@stormbowman7148]

When that glue disaster happens to me (and it does, some times, when you ballast turnouts). I try to move the turnout ever so often while the glue is drying. This will keep the turnout from locking, because you constantly break the bond. I know, having to leave it overnight might make that more difficult. For ballast I use Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement. It dries within hours, and is dry to the touch fairly quickly. It can also be dissolved in water, so you can clear it away, if it happens to dry in places you do not want it.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah leaving it overnight was definitely a problem. I'd done as much as I could to clear up the excess glue by that point to mitigate as much damage as possible and just had to hope it wouldn't be too bad the following morning. Good to know that the Scenic Cement dries quickly though - I may have to try that out in the future as it would be very handy for filming videos! Thanks for watching 😃

[@Tommy_Collada]

Im very excited to pick up the oo9 Prince/Princess Also I really like the Top Gear like intro!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Awesome! If you haven’t already I’d recommend ordering from Derails as they can check the loco over for you first before sending it out. Thanks for watching 😃

[@Tommy_Collada]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy that sounds great!

[@That1Redhead28]

I have the woodland scenics fine ballast and no amount of tapping the rail or brushing it away will make the sleepers clean

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

I does take a bit of practice. Usually the most common reason is that you’re using too much ballast. You don’t need anywhere near as much as you’d imagine as it goes quite a long way when spread out as a thin layer. Thanks for watching 👍

[@That1Redhead28]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy did you use the one from the bag or bottle shaker? I think the bag is actual rock and the other is synthetic. I used far less ballast than you have and it just acts differently

[@That1Redhead28]

Also mine floats when glue is added

[@middleageddad]

Nice video. Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it, but the f in Gofod is pronounced live a v. Thanks for making such an interesting video.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks! Haha, yeah I've had a few people mention it 😂 Since the first few episodes had already been filmed it was too late to go back and change it but I'll do my best to remember to get it right for future videos. Thanks for watching 👍

[@gs425]

For info...the cdu isn't actially for "clean power", it's to supply a high current pulse. This gives the solenoid a good kick...but stops burn outs from accidental continual voltage.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

That's basically what I meant by clean power. Like I said in the video, I'll be doing a more in depth tutorial on solenoid point motors which is why I skipped over the CDU - but yes, essentially it just provides a nice burst of power when needed rather than the motor trying to take it directly from the controller. Thanks for watching 😃

[@NicholassTrainChannel]

Nice progress mate. I feel your pain with the glue issue it's happend to me before. Maybe try getting rid of the glue using some sort of glue disolver and see if that works. Hope that helps. Layout is looking great! Looking forward to the next one. - Nicholas.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks Nicholas, yeah I feel like a lot of us have experienced excess glue at some point! Thanks for watching 😃

[@adam_fordham]

That was a really good video, I like the way you weathered the track, haven't seen that technique but it works well, ballasting is always a bit scary to do especially round the points and thats 00 gauge nevermind 009😀

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah it is a nice weathering technique. I'll certainly try it again in the future as it's subtle but works really well. I definitely think I got caught out by the track/points being smaller in 009... it doesn't take much for the glue to spread out! Thanks for watching 😃

[@philipdrew1066]

Subscribed - it would be nice to create something similar inside my living room coffee table - and is always more informative to see people overcoming problems.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Awesome, yeah a coffee table layout would be another great setting for a 009 layout! Thanks for watching 😃

[@gazbaz9345]

Ah the suspense!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Everyone loves a cliffhanger! 😂 Thanks for watching 👍

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Everyone loves a cliffhanger! 😂 Thanks for watching 👍

[@peterjackson-cheadleheath1182]

Hi It was a nice video, hopefully the gluing of the points won't be too bad, maybe when dry you could scrape it off with a blade, just hope it hasn't run down into the solinoids and gummed them up, as that would be more expensive! Good luck. Thanks

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah definitely shows I'm not immune to making mistakes - far from it 😂 I don't want to say too much though in case I spoil the next episode. Thanks for watching 👍

[@jasonanderson6583]

If you need a tip for the points spray them with rubbing alcohol and run a q tip over them. It could get rid of the glue resadue

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

I don’t want to give too much away about the next episode yet so I’ll keep quiet for the moment 😉 Thanks for watching 👍

[@LondonPredatorAngler]

I would love to do something like this as a newbie to model trains and someone who doesnt have alot of space, but looks so much messing around with wires etc..... loving this series though ;)

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

I'd say go for it! 009 and N Gauge are great for small space layouts like this and there's lots of great track plans out there. You don't have to do loads of wiring either - I just decided to motorise the points but you could always switch them by hand or have a rod underneath the layout to operate them. At it's core a model railway only needs two wires to work. Glad you're enjoying the series and thanks for watching 😃

[@LondonPredatorAngler]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thanks for your reply, its defo given food for thought, I cant wait to see ep 3

[@aleopardstail]

comment on the D connector, you can get them designed to connect to printed circuit board, with breakout boards which may make soldering easy - or can add screw terminals

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Good to know Dale! I do like using these as a way of connecting a lot of wires easily so I'll have to look into that for future projects. Thanks for watching 😃

[@dwaynejohnson4892]

Love your content and can’t wait to see what went wrong

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Thanks! Everyone loves a cliffhanger right... right? 😂 Thanks for watching 👍

[@darknut9696]

With points try working them gently and add drops of water like youve done to dissolve the PVA further this may take time but it may save the points from being clogged (I asked my pop's as he was a cabinetmaker/ restoration carpenter)

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

I don't want to say too much here in case I spoil the next episode so all I'll say for now is be sure to tune in next week 😉 Thanks for watching 👍

[@aleopardstail]

if the PVA is water soluble its not too hard to shift, failing that some IPA and a small paint brush should get rid of it, and your acrylic paint though so will need to reapply that - but should work fine

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Those are definitely thoughts I had even as I was filming that final segment. All I'll say for now is tune in next week 😉 Thanks for watching 👍

[@HillcrestHalt]

What type of screws did you use to attach the pointmotors. Could you provide a link for them too please. 😊

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Hi there, I got a box of these a while ago and have been slowly working my way through them: amzn.to/41DIvKd (affiliate) Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃

[@HillcrestHalt]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thankyou. Yes they will help loads. Was looking for short screws that won’t go through my Sundeala board on my modules. 😊

[@jouebien]

If your after a connector with a higher insertion cycle rate then something like the Centronics 36pin connector db25 will probably last longer than the average db25. The cheap db25 are only rated for a few hundred cycles. Otherwise if your doing a lot of touring with the layout something like a DT12 37-pin connector is probably something you would want to look at.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

For something like this it's not really worth it bearing in mind that, once the layout is setup, the control panel stays plugged in. Perhaps if you were constantly going to exhibitions and it was being moved around a lot... but even then I think other stuff on the layout would wear out first since it wasn't really built as an exhibition layout anyway. Thanks for watching 👍

[@aleopardstail]

recently painted track on my layout, found a slightly faster method - primed first using a wargaming primer, mix of colours, black for areas like coal years or tunnels, running track a mix of grey or brown (could just use brown). then the Railmatch sleeper grime spray over the lot - only brushed bit is around point switch rails, took about 45 minutes for the spray bit, made a huge difference. then a drybrush of a dull grey and lighter brown and done. still need to ballast it

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Nice, sounds like a great technique! I have to admit I tend not to use spray paints that much though as I don't have great ventilation - but definitely a good option for those that do. Thanks for watching 😃

[@sunshinecarnivores1919]

What if you don't have a dremel or any other tool that your using? Is there something else someone can use?

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Of course, but it depends what tool you want to substitute. For a Dremel you could either use a drill, saw or cutters depending on how you're using it. Fancy tools aren't a necessity, they just make things easier and more convenient. Thanks for watching 👍

[@prioryrail3675]

Oh man, I feel your pain. I did a very similar thing ballasting my first OO gauge layout, the glue left a shiny surface over everything, the points played up and the ballast all moved. Hopefully you can sort it...... I have not been brave enough to ballast a layout since!

[@BordersJambo]

Spray the ballast with water mixed with a drop of washing up liquid before you glue, that should stop it moving. For the shiny surface - yeah, had the same problem. Everything turned to glass... it was horrible. Although it seems a wee bit pricey, I highly recommend Roket's "Ballast Bond" over mixing your own. It solved that problem for me. You don't need anything like as much as he used in this video... a few well placed drops are enough. The ballast needs to be saturated - not waterlogged.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah I think a few of us have had problems with ballasting track in the past. Just goes to show that it can all go wrong even for someone like me who does it on a fairly regular basis. Thanks for watching 😃

[@christopherwarren9439]

love watching the vids the layout you doing has gave me an idea on a layout i been thinking of doing. and your layout matches what i need so could you send me how many points and other track you are using i would be very grateful

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Hi Christopher, the track plan was shown in the first episode with all the parts I used being linked in the description. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃

[@dustpanandthebrush5293]

The steam tram, is a that a fourdees model?

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Hi there, it's actually a 3D printed body shell that fits onto a readily available Kato chassis. I have to say they're very good. There's a link to it in the description if you're interested. Thanks for watching 😃

[@treinenliefde]

Aah no ballasting points, yeah if glue comes into contact with the switch rails youre gonna have a hard time fixing them. Obviously there's a happy ending otherwise you wouldn't have edited the video like this, but Ive seen videos of other people using various techniques to remove trackwork and dissolve the glue so even if its completely hardened it can be saved.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah that was my main worry too! Having to leave it overnight was very disheartening too knowing what I would probably wake up to the following morning. You'll get to see how it all turns out next week though! Thanks for watching 😃

[@johnyray590]

Hello, Will you kindly refer me to a web based store that has 009\ Hornby? I live in the US and am unable to find any store here, or online that carriers this. I’d like to start a shelf sized/ shunting layout, and I like the 009 era 1 to model. Hoping you can assist with this! Thank you,

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Hey Johny, usually I'd recommend Derails.co.uk but unfortunately they don't ship internationally at the moment. Perhaps try Hattons Model Railways instead as I believe they have both 009 and Hornby. Thanks for watching 😃

[@willbreckinridge8010]

Man, it's a shame about the glue. 😬I hope everything works out... Wait a minute, everything HAS to work out or else he wouldn't be making a series about it! I know what you're doing @That Model Railway Guy 😉

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Episode 3: Starting Again From Scratch 😂 You’ll have to wait and see what happens in next weeks episode! Thanks for watching 👍

[@BordersJambo]

Oh dear. 😔 Can you not rub or spray alcohol onto the points - that would surely remove the PVA glue? Alternatively, use hot water.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

I have to admit even when I was filming that last segment I was already starting to form a plan. You'll have to tune in next week to see how I get on! Thanks for watching 😃

[@Nate_the_Great-4472]

What’s the music at 16:40?

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Hi there, all the music used in my videos was written by me. That particular piece was one I recorded specifically for this 009 series. Thanks for watching 😃

[@WesternSignalman]

Ah gutted for you mate, nothing worse than thinking your hours of work is ruined. But PVA is forgiving so I’m sure you can clean it off. Any tricky parts try some nice hot water to lift the glue.

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Yeah it was pretty demoralising knowing that I might have just messed everything up 😂 Like you say though PVA can be cleaned and diluted so tune in next week to see how I get on. I enjoyed your own latest 009 video by the way! Thanks for watching 😃

[@sarahmartiniom]

Hello

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Hi Sarah, hope you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching 😃

[@plutoyaldnil4750]

OUCH hey cutting disks and grinding disks are 2 very different things NEVER grind with a cutting disk thet are much thinner and you really risk the chance of that disk shattering and flying at you your eyes etc

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Which is why I was using a grinding disc. Regardless you should always wear eye protection no matter what disc you're using.

[@wealdhurstmodelrailway9666]

Point motors still look like too much cost and effort. Surely there must be a better way? Huge, clunky, noisy, expensive and complicated. All to move a tiny piece of plastic about 5mm!!

[@ThatModelRailwayGuy]

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion of course but I would disagree there. These solenoids are pretty small (remember the 009 points are tiny) and only cost about £5. There's also servo motors (even smaller and cheaper) or you could use a rod under the baseboard connected to the tie bar to operate points remotely too. There's plenty of ways of doing it if these particular motors don't take your fancy. Thanks for watching 😃

[@wealdhurstmodelrailway9666]

@@ThatModelRailwayGuy you misunderstand me, I think! 🙂 My point is about motors themselves. I am fine with rods under the baseboard. My issue is with the motor tech as a whole, specifically for oo gauge, which is the gauge I model in. In my opinion, there should be point track with motors built in. How big does a motor need to be to move a tiny piece of plastic a couple of mm?