Building a 3kW Induction Heater ll Complete Build Guide

[@carlopiaia2144]

I used to work for Vulcan Forge in San Jose we used to forge 2 1/2 inch wrenches for Stanley and Proto in closed die forgings they forged at temperatures 2,300° f , and the induction heaters we used to use were also tuned to the coil, by connections made on the capacitor Bank, and every coil had deionized water going through it, and the billets were fed through it also had two rails liquid-cooled rails going down through the center of the coil, they were all made a stainless steel tubing. The forge had coils that can handle anywhere from a half inch material all the way up to 3 in Plus

[@Arek_R.]

What were the advantages of tuning it? Did they tell you what happens if you don't tune it?

[@johnmcclain3887]

Good job, I enjoyed the layout, the specs on components, and the very accurate description of the solitary drawback, and the immediate fix, using two cores, and 12 gauge wire. The "scope" shows the exact impact of fixing the core saturation issue. Quite a professional job, I have a 300 amp tig welder in my shop without running water, and found two water cooled motorcycle radiators, Honda, if I remember right, am running a "vibrator pump" circulating water when the welder is on, and it's worked a decade with no problems. I run ten or twenty percent radiator fluid, and have a glass "ball" quart canning jar, with a hole drilled in the bottom and near the top on the side for copper tube epoxied in, for a visual flow indicator and fluid quality view. I leave about half the jar air, for expansion, but haven't ever gotten the water more than warm. Thanks for a great video, good sound electronics, and sound engineering.

[@Arek_R.]

I doubt DIY coils are really worth it. Given that you need to probably buy excessive amount of 12AWG magnet wire as in whole spool, + the cores + the extra work, it's probably better to buy off the shelf inductors, for some people it might end up same as the parts cost, and you end up with superior inductors which will have lower losses. You will be spending 25-35 euro for the parts, meanwhile you can buy two high power inductors for around 15 each. Also if you end up buying different cores, you risk getting issues and having to buy different cores and wasting more time and wire.

[@maverick9708]

That board layout is absolutely phallic

[@fizzyplazmuh9024]

You must have triggered some Kens on another of your videos or else 79 people accidentally pressed the thumbs down button. Seriously, very nice board and very thoughtful design and follow-up to clean your sine. And I am grateful for the doubled toroid trick. When I lived in Houston there was a serious electronics surplus and salvage shop with buckets of fist sized toroids on down with maybe the largest being $10 to $15. I always swore to come back and raid their stock when I started prototyping induction furnaces but sadly I have moved too far away now and they don't do online sales. This was the type of place that used to have salvaged ships radars and teletype machines and copper vapor lasers and on and on. I could spend half a day drooling in the aisles.

[@anthonynoneofyourbeeswax6083]

I love EPO too moved to out of town but still get over their when I can

[@anthonynoneofyourbeeswax6083]

And if you need anything just let me know I can just grab it for you when I go I only live out past Katy Mills so it's like a 45 min to 8 hours trip depending on how dumb i10 or West Park are being

[@davenewland4675]

Thanks for the video. Nice work! Just a note on why the temperature of the iron stops climbing. Resistance actually increases with heat but that is not the reason. At these power levels and frequencies the heating depends mostly on the magnetic properties of the workpiece. That is why a non magnetic workpiece does not heat as well. The magnetic workpiece actually becomes non magnetic when it reaches the curie point or curie temperature and does not react with the coil as strongly. For steel this is almost 1400 deg. F. You can mess around with a propane torch, a nail, and a magnet for a demonstration. Nickel and its alloys can do this at lower temperatures. Some magnetic coins are fun to play with (Canadian one dollar loonie).

[@mevk1]

Can't believe he said resistance decreases with temperature (never heard of superconductors buddy ?). At melting temp of iron its resistance has increased by 100%.

[@Yp-ku4sy]

Eddy current losses versus hysteresis losses. Hysteresis losses are typically the bulk of your heating effectiveness with these frequencies and these metals. For metals that don't benefit from hysteresis losses (aka "nonmagnetic"), you generally need higher switching frequencies as well. Take all of this with a grain of salt and confirm yourself, but these are my experiences working in a place that designed these.

[@peterkutas1176]

Great to hear you say 'Soldering' as opposed to 'Soddering' ! Cheers mate; keep up the great work...

[@richardmg9]

Nothing wrong with regional dialects having different pronunciations.

[@thomassutrina7469]

Worked for Sundstrand Aerospace in packaging Wild frequency input from a generator mounted to a jet engine gearbox and rectifies it and converts it to 400Hz 3 phase. One in production is a 30KW unit. So I was responsible for coming up with cooling and packaging. One suggestion is to attach that copper tubing to the circuit board for the straight buses for the capacitor bank. Attaching the inductor and semiconductors to the back side with the tubing will make it easier to use the liquid to cool the circuit. Just a thought.

[@jimthvac100]

I am wondering if the metal would get hotter if the coils were wound in a tighter circle. I believe the metal needs to get at least yellow hot for proper forging or perhaps other uses. I am thinking a nice project would be for you to make a second coil to swap out with this one for times when you want to heat up something smaller and make it hotter. Not criticizing what you did in anyway. You are a great teacher and demonstrator on here. love your channel.

[@mevk1]

He has already said for best performance to match coil with work piece. This coil was designed to match his crucible for melting metal.

[@playkvlh9122]

@@mevk1 That crucible should be able to melt some serious aluminum.

[@carlopiaia2144]

I used to work at a forging company these induction heaters and it would just get to brilliant yellow you'd almost need sunglasses to look at it and we used to forge at 2,300°, if the Hammerman get it too hot when the Closed Dies hit the metal it would explode and shoot sparks everywhere just like a flint on a lighter

[@joshuastewart7309]

around the 21 minute mark you state the internal resistance of the metal decreases with heat - it is actually increasing in resistance. This can be explained by faradays law of induction. because a constant Bflux is changing, a constant EMF is applied to the metal causing eddy currents. and P = V^2/R. which tells us as resistance increases, P decreases.

[@ichbineltyb3814]

AFAIK it has to do with curie temperature

[@qwadratix]

@@ichbineltyb3814 That's right. It's not the electrical resistance that's at issue here. He's heating a FERROUS metal. That means it's highly magnetic and the main heating effect is not from eddy currents but the continuous, rapid reversing of the magnetic field is 'jiggling' the magnetic domains of the metal, causing friction and hence heat. BUT as the metal heats up and passes the Curie point, the magnetic response suddenly drops and that strong heating effect ceases.

[@HighVoltageMadness]

Correct i think he just got mixxed up

[@richardamullens]

I'm sure it just a slip of the tongue.

[@AZStarYT]

You haven't seen hot until you've seen a 400 kW power supply on a 5' dia. chiller-cooled coil, heating a solid graphite billet surrounded by a few hundred pounds of powdered graphite. It was white hot for several hours and took all next day to cool. We were making the first woven carbon-carbon composite rocket nozzles and nose cones at SAI (before it was SAIC) for the Air Farce and NASA. Our technique was used to make the Galileo Jupiter probe's heat shield.

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

Actually, I've seen hot. In fact, I see hot every day. So have you, and everyone else you or I know. It hangs in the sky. 😉

[@MatsDance]

This sounds awesome. Would love to know more about how this was done. Please talk to KZbinr smarter every day.

[@michaelarcher4643]

Brilliant. I will be trying to make 3 heaters with elongated pancake coils to achieve 9 kw heating on top and sides. Leaving the bottom open to get a workpiece in the contraption freely and prevent contamination of the coils by falling debris. Thanks again.

[@ReadyUpGo]

You do good work. People could learn a lot about doing things well regardless of the projects themselves. Thank you for the effort.

[@maarkaus48]

Loved this and am going to do it. On a side note, loved the fly checking out your work. It always adds to the video to have an assistant

[@Schematix]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@pwdrhrn]

funniest ad I've seen in a long while! You rock.

[@PeterShipley1]

for larger inductor rings check out ham radio supply sources, large rings are used with lower frequency "HF' antennas.

[@jimthvac100]

Much better with the music by not making it too loud. Great video by the way!

[@sempertard]

The 12 ga magnet wire I obtained was STIFF. I had to clamp my toroid stack in a soft jawed vice while winding it, and it still looked really sloppy. Schematix made it look so easy.... Oh well, hopefully it will still get the job done.

[@eliotmansfield]

another tip - if you own one, pre-heat the pcb and copper wire with a heatgun which helps out when soldering with a undersized iron

[@borisj4054]

Using coaxial cable braid is the best for reenforcing copper pcb tracks. Sweat it onto the tracks with a liberal amount of solder. Flexible and easy to work with.

[@clintchapman4319]

I'm afraid I know nothing about electrical things, but I sure would like to have something like that to harden items I machine. I'll be watching!

[@dalenassar9152]

AWESOME I.H. and P.S. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was going to comment on the capacitor diagonal connection, but you mentioned it as I was watching further. One thing that I have found done somewhat inadvertently in helical work-coils is in how many turns actually produce flux interaction with a work piece. If you get the opportunity, could you take the coil and connect a thin wire across the terminal leads near the coil, and then dip that 'closed loop' into a soap-bubble bath, then pull it out and just count how many 'closed' circular surfaces appear through the coil's center...these are the ones that contribute to heating / flux-coupling. I have found that it can often be less than it would seem by counting 'turns' by sight. Fractional loops at the ends can be very misleading. THANKS MUCH... Please let me know if / when you do it. I have seen cases when the true number of 'useful / legit' turns has been as many as two less than some large I.H.'s makers claim, even though it may look so. --dALe

[@victoryfirst2878]

Can you tell me how people melt metal using induction heating ??? Look forward to see more of your creation.

[@borisj4054]

The weak link with these circuits are the resonant capacitors. So many required to obtain the capacitive value and series current capability. Pity those old high power valve transmitter caps are not more common. Capacitors out of the high frequency TiG welders are made by Miller and can take a lot of current. What is really needed are water cooled capacitors. Must try making some.

[@hernerweisenberg7052]

If i understood the function of this device correctly, the resonance is used to create a high frequency AC to drive the work coil? One could use a microcontroller instead to run the semiconductors at the desired frequency like in an switchmode powersupply and get rid of the coils and capacitors alltogether right? Perhaps only one big cap to smoothen the draw on the supply.

[@MikeSims70]

LOL - when you pulled out the 2.0 model I audibly cheered I was so happy to see that! This is great, thank you for this video.

[@johnny4eel]

A variety of coil sizes matched more closely to the size of the object being heated will greatly increase the temperature of the object Once worked for a company turning out induction heated rivets and such and our coils were not much more than .25" clearance or less around the part...also our coils had water circulating them for cooling

[@sempertard]

Johnny, if you are still there...? Could you please elaborate a bit more on what you mean by "coil sizes matched more closely to the size of the object" ? How much margin between the outer edge of an object (assuming it's closely centered in the coil) and the inner edge of the coil would you recommend? Thanks...

[@johnny4eel]

​​@@sempertard These devices operated at extremely high voltage and the coils were actually copper tubing, round or square, and shaped for the area of the product that needs hardening with water flowing through the tubes constantly. For instance, one item we did a lot of was a rivet slightly larger than a human thumb and the part would go from ice cold steel to bright red hot in a matter of seconds and then quickly removed and dropped into the quench tank edit: another critical component was the requirement to never ever let the part touch the coil and for that we had heat resistant cloth and a paper-like substance I would say maybe keep experimenting with coil sizes and if more or less turns in a coil makes a difference and if you want to have a smaller gap then make sure to have something non-conductive between the coil and the part being heated edit-edit: the gap shown at 21:40 is perfect and to make it even more perfect could be to make a dedicated crucible coil and turn the lower coils such that they maintain that same perfect gap all the way down, making your perfect crucible coil even more perfecter :-) Also if you can shed enough heat from the copper tube with water you might see higher temps on the crucible EDIT, EDIT, EDIT: just came back from your channel looking for a video about how the coil worked after hooking up to water and if you've melted anything in the crucible...so, did it work ??

[@eagleshunter2975]

brother you are very good person

[@DizzyRonson]

if you use copper brake line to reinforce the traces. you could also use the reinforcemet for watercooling the PCB. possibly.

[@pontiacg445]

I was going to recommend just bending the whole work coil to match the trace shape and directly soldering components to it through the PCB, but your idea would be a lot easier...

[@ClownWhisper]

Alternatively you can fill the tube with water and freeze it I found it this works better than using sand. Have made heat exchanger coils for condensers for large distillation purposes

[@power-max]

@Mikron this video is perfect and you should aim to have a build just like this.

[@marbles430]

Very interesting project and you are obviously very skilled in electronics. I was drawn to your video by the possibility of using an induction heater for heating some smaller projects in my black smithing work. Firing up my gas forge to do small work is not very efficient. While very informative I want to mention that the steel was no where near a forging temperature. The steel needs to be between 1200- 1300 degrees centigrade to be effectively forged. That is an incandescing yellow heat when viewed in shade. I am confident that you, given your expertise would be able to design an induction circuit to meet the temperature criteria. Again a great video and information thank you for sharing it.

[@generalingwer4341]

Great job.😃i too try to find ways to lower costs for various electronic parts. things get very expensive.

[@GnuReligion]

I like those clip-on TO-220 heat sinks.

[@seymourpro6097]

Where you add copper to tracks could the actual tracks be increased to say an inch wide. There seems to be plenty of board to use.

[@unknown-ql1fk]

I made a similar induction heater and if you have them, use copper nuts and bolts to cut down on resistance at the joints

[@rilosvideos877]

Problem with the circuit is probably the Mosfets IRFP4668. They have a high gate capacity and tend to swing at the gate at the smallest cicuit induction in the gate path. Thus they dont switch fast and exact enough and build up a lot of heat quickly. Did you measure the gate signal with an oscilloscope? Would be interesting to see. They have to advantage of high voltage switching at high amperage, but they are hard to control in this self oscillating circuit.

[@rilosvideos877]

@@papvendel7490 If you bought cheap at ebay, they were probably fake Mosfets - they burn easily. Maybe there was a problem with the gate signal, a ringing, and not properly switching. You have to measure the gate signal.

[@oxfd611]

I am a paramedic and have very little knowledge about scratch building any electronics. But I must give credit when due, you are very neat and tidy when you build sir. I wonder if the engineers who built the Apollo rocket systems had to be just as creative, neat, and tidy?

[@DolezalPetr]

I started my own induction heater project, so far you are way ahead of my progress but your project is looking exacly as I want my project to look, amazing, cant wait for the water cooling system, that is goint to be very interesting

[@Schematix]

You can do it!

[@ihtsarl9115]

I am Nasuh Jaber

[@eliotmansfield]

2.5mm is single strand solid here in the UK. I’ve made psu busbars from hammering small bore copper pipe flat.

[@willrobbinson]

multi stranded wire is more rf efficient ie less loss

[@MatsDance]

Very impressive. Thanks for posting.

[@ihtsarl9115]

Excellent video rarely found on this subject

[@tailehuynhphat9570]

Really cool project. I cant help but see that it resembles the Neo Armstrong Cyclone Jet Armstrong Cannon

[@RodneyMuscat]

Great stuff... Any idea how much all that would cost approximately and it's it scalable I.E. 10KW, 20KW, 30KW, etc. How about a more in depth explanation of the circuit say breaking it down into sub circuits like how is the Sine wave generated. Is there a PDF to accompany the build if one should try building it for themselves.

[@gabewhisen3446]

Finally an Induction heater build in a language that I can understand

[@MattJMillsNZ]

A good source of large inductors are old UPS's I have scrapped a number of APC 3000kva Rack mount UPS and they each have at least 6 large inductors, double the size of yours

[@steverobbins4872]

Instead of soldering those big wires to beef up the traces, I'd recommend the following on your next design: don't bus the caps. Each cap should have its own dedicated pair of traces going straight to the big terminals for the induction coil. I would make a roughly round PCB with the induction coil terminals in the center and the caps arranged in a circle around them. Also, I'd spread the cap traces over 4 layers so they can be really wide. Some heat sinking may be required at the terminals.

[@xoddopaul]

NICE INSIGHT

[@SkalyGhostGaming]

you could also manufacture your own toroid rings capable of handling higher inductance loads

[@spykerhond7008]

if you hold somthing with a metal bezel that heats up , it seems like nice heat controll on object

[@SomeTechGuy666]

Fantastic work. Please scale this design up to 5-10 KW.

[@mevk1]

I think he bought a pair of them. If everyone requests maybe he will parallel them -- then display 6KW of glorious induction powerage.

[@russelldold4827]

I think the temperature limitation on how hot you can heat the steel is because above the Curie point the steel becomes non-magnetic due to a change in the crystalline structure. Knife makers test the heat of a blade before quenching by using a magnet. I don't know what the big boys do to put enough energy into induction furnaces to melt steel in foundries.

[@russelldold4827]

Maybe this site will give a clue to my own question. Certainly he gets forge-welding temperatures: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmK3imWQnNebqNE

[@piousminion7822]

Given the equilibrium you mention at #21:05, how do induction furnaces melt iron? Building an induction furnace is what I'd like to do.

[@hpsmith2010]

With Rds on for those IRFP4668 mosfets being in the range of 0.008 to 0.010 ohms, I think you must have high switching losses contributing to that 67.3 degrees mosfet case temperature measured at 23:10 in the video. If it were me I'd experiment with lower values for R2 and R4. In fact, given the specs. on those mosfets I wonder if it is even necessary to use four of them for a 3 kw throughput? It seems that with proper gate drive and cooling, two should be able to safely handle it.

[@victoryfirst2878]

Since you are using lead tin solder which is kinda regular solder. How about using a high quality solder that that has 6 percent silver. That would make the conductivity a lot better. What do you think fella ???

[@Schematix]

Silver solder would be a better option than lead based solder for this application (assuming you can afford it ;)

[@victoryfirst2878]

@@Schematix What else would you do to lower the electrical amperage of the unit Sir ??? Different or more capacitors, transistors. Heavier gauge wiring. WHAT Thanks

[@AirCrash1]

You have never welded have you? The way you soldered the board was how best to warp something when applying heat. Heat at one end and then move the heat slowly along it. You need to uniformly preheat what ever you can in an oven or by brushing with a flame or hot air gun. You should also solder the ends first then keep dividing the length by half for your next solder point.

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

So, on the subject of coils: let's assume we want to use it for forging knives. Usually this means we start off from material that's relatively flat, having a more or less rectangular cross-section. Would it be helpful to have the coils conform to this shape rather than having them be round? Second question: since it's not a good idea to touch the coils while in operation, and since electricity can travel from the coil to your body through the tongs when the work piece touches the coil, how would you to about protecting the user from accidental contact? Would pottery enamel hold up, if we paint the coil in this? Will it adhere to the copper in the first place? Will it impact performance? Are there better options?

[@Mr_Wh1]

PC water cooling parts would be perfect for this project. It's 1/4 inch standard, comes in many sizes and uses standard PC fan sizes.

[@gmeeks6004]

Nice tankless water heater!!!

[@JayShakul]

Hello sir you did a great work.please can you buy welding machine schematics from 120amp to 200amps

[@chbonnici]

Another first class video. I will use this idea to make an instant water heater. Will pass a 3/4 inch galvanised steel pipe through the coil without touching the copper. Then push water through and will experiment with water flow . Please what is the frequency you are using. I thank you again for sharing. Firstclass project.

[@chbonnici]

Please also if you can tell us the copper coil inductance.

[@strikerj4810]

Can you do a smaller build of this for those of us who uses an induction heater in place of a butane torch for our vaporizers for weed?

[@anmolkumar6704]

Great video. Try hooking up a high voltage transformer to the output next 😼

[@Schematix]

Yeah I rekon!

[@personalcontent4484]

Thank you, this is fantastic... I am assuming that it heats up to 600-700 deg celcius? If one was to make the bus bar, would you solder it to the traces or just have it attached at correct points?

[@user-bubstech]

I'm not a julous type but I'm jealous of your tools and knowledge and how did you know it was the coil making the wave wrong and not something else these induction heaters look cool what happens when you only pass water thought it does it heat the water?

[@warwickbond8836]

Just wondering if you had a target resonance for the output? We use our induction heaters for copper brazing, but I can't recall the exact kHz value that works best for non ferrous metals. Would be good to have a small mobile unit like this for the smaller connections of leads in the series and parallel circuits. Great build! 👍

[@Schematix]

For my application I was targeting what would be referred to as 'medium-frequency' the end result was around 39~40kHz. For ferrous metal, my understanding is mid~low frequency yields quicker heat time due to the 'skin effect' of higher frequencies

[@warwickbond8836]

@@Schematix Thanks! Yes I assumed you must of had a specific inductance level to feed the resonance tank based upon your toroid windings. Nice work.

[@Mark6E]

@@Schematix Does this include the graphite cruicible? I have not found any info on what frequency they heat best. Ive got a 200ml size and made a 135mm diameter coil for it. 11 turns, about 5 meters, I will need to shorten it after some testing. Thanks for the video.

[@Raimundofrios]

Esde projeto pra usar em brasagem de tubos de cobre seria importante pois e portátil me favoreceria muito

[@josemustafha8425]

A couple of questions. 1-Is there a frequency that is chosen to heat steel? 2-I want to build this heater to temper knife blades. How could I modify the coil? Because it has a dimension of 300 mm x 3 mm thick.

[@Arek_R.]

If there is so much current flowing thru it, then why not make wider traces? There are relatively thin traces on the bottom, and there is space for much more (you would probably use plane pours). And then on the component side the space under the film capacitors is completely unused, you could double the cross section with top layer. In overall you could probably 6x the trace cross section. And if that's still not enough, and 2oz PCB is not an option due to cost, then you don't solder wires on top of it, you design smaller segments with exposed copper, and use small flat copper bar sections, this will eliminate bending. You solder these as SMD components so use paste and oven/hot air, this way you don't need powerful iron. I understand you need to balance film cap load and that's why the pipe connections are at either ends of PCB, but that seems very inconvenient, with right PCB layout you can force the current to flow mostly equally from the caps and then you could have pipe connections at end of the PCB. There is also too many film caps, it makes the PCB twice longer, and the PCB layout is harder, I know it's good for cooling and overall performance to use many smaller caps in parallel, but I think it would be best to use caps with double the capacity, so like 6-7 0.66uF caps, I believe those would end up being a bit cheaper than 14x 0.33uF. For high current connections, so input and output, you came with a bit of a weird solution with those crimped and soldered terminals, it would be much better and cleaner to use wurth's redcube press fit terminals, those are rated up to like 250/350A depending on chosen thread size. If you would want to implement those suggestions in 3kW MKII then feel free to ask me, I can explain those things in detail.

[@Max_Chooch]

The board warped because your copper wires expanded while soldering and then shrank when they cooled. Can't fix that. Mounting the board would probably cause things to crack from the stresses. Maybe a different conductive metal has a better coefficient of expansion.

[@ejonesss]

if you could drive a transformer core at them frequencies couldnt you make the core from an old microwave transformer? or even use the ballast coil from a treadmill? if it has to be fereite (iron/ceramic) you could make one using. 1. flyback transformer core from old tvs (they usually are split). 2. tv horizontal deflection yoke cores they are usually split and can be hand wound. all fereite cores are made of iron and ceramic and are fragile and can break very easy. the iron makes the magnetics work and the ceramic gives the shape and maybe allows the cores to be much more effiecent operation.

[@vishalkjaiswal]

Hi, your video was excellent, can you please make a video on how to control a induction cooktop through a PID controller as hundreds of thousands of people use induction cooktop for brewing and it will be very helpful for all of us

[@hernerweisenberg7052]

That shouldn't be that hard to do. There are PID temperature controllers for industrial use that come with or are designed for standard Pt100 temperature probes and that have a simple open/close contact that can be programmed for a certain temperature. You can use that contact to switch a relay on and off, and wire the cable that powers your cooktop through that relay. If you google "pid pt100" you should be able to find one that fits your purpose, and for the realy you only need to watch out for that the contacts are rated for the voltage and amperage of your cooktop. You might also need a 24v dc powersupply both for the PID and the relay, as industrial equipment is usually powered by 24v DC (but you can get PID's and relays that run off the mains too).

[@DaveGagliardi]

I would really like to see a video of you using the crucible! What a fantastic idea!!!

[@alexwang007]

I have a distrust for these self starting "ZVS driver"s, they are picky about supply rail rise time, and also the frequency varies a lot with load (could be a good thing as it tracks for resonance). The problem is, unlike lower powered versions, once out of sync it could go boom. I'd love to see one implemented using a soft switching phase shifted full bridge! Maybe with big ass GaN dies even!

[@postualin6551]

Yup it will burn instantly.

[@jackfrost3560]

Nice build not too bad how ever to help you along first All wire and components must be cleaned with 90%ipa (alcohol) One other thing when soldering you must cut the leeds so soldering covered it part of mil spec had to pass a 1 week course on it along with 2 year's of training was on a incoming nuke station USA wire wrapping was hard as well but have fun doing great job. Oh tools as well must be cleaned with ipa.

[@dancoz5477]

Ce type doit être alcoolique. Autrement il aurait précisé pourquoi ce lavage. Pas fort.

[@StokiesdraaiBond]

Thanks for the free Circuit Schematic. 😊😊

[@stephanc7192]

Amazing build and video

[@MuhammadHanif-bx4pb]

what about designing soft start for that royer oscillator? that beast create massive inrush!

[@European_cars]

Schematix wi do r2 r3 r4 r1 are in the scheme 1k value and 150 ohm and in your video ar 47ohm and 470ohm thx for the answer

[@petebroa]

Mr. Schematix , I watched your videos on induction heating, and decided to build your version of the 3000 watt induction heater. I ordered your circuit boards of course you get five circuit boards (no problem) then I ordered all the other parts. I followed your video to the best of my ability. WOW this thing works great ! Now to my problem, I got extra parts and extra circuit boards so I built another one ( now I have two). second one works just as good as first. WHAT IF I parallel the two circuit boards ? Hook up positive and negative inputs to same power supply and then hook up both outputs to ONE coil. Will I now have 6000 watts of induction heater or a bunch of sparks and smoke? I have two communication power supply in parallel with 220volt input so about 100amps available can this work or should I film it when I first hook it up?

[@Yoshimonky]

The MOSFETs signals need to be synchronous, then you may have a chance to scale it up. And please let us know in more detail what happens.

[@Buzzhumma]

Thanks buddy for the learnings 👍🏻 i have been using a cheap inverter arc welder for a power supply . It would be good to see your adaptation of using one to power your zvs .

[@allmytacks]

thank you for the video. Can you please answer: what does the frequency of the inductor depend on? how to increase it from 40-50khz to 90?

[@ndegwajelvasio3863]

Briliant clean job

[@Greebstreebling]

Brilliant project - could you give us any pointers about making different diameter coils for different size workpieces? Is it just the overall length of tubing used that matters ?

[@Schematix]

This is an area where I'm still learning about coil design. In a nut shell, the amount of turns, overall length, diameter and so on, all play a role. Perhaps when I'm more knowledgeable in this field, I'll make a separate video on this topic?

[@Greebstreebling]

@@Schematix Brill, thanks, anything you can share would be great. I watched the link you provided to coil manufacture at Ambrell - www.ambrell.com/learn/induction-coil-design , which is really useful. Here in the U.K. you can also buy pre made coils for pretty reasonable cost which could be interfaced to your unit using plumber's compression fittings. We're about to start a build and will post back as things progress.

[@davidbalfour3390]

You can get cheap contact thermometers from ali, then you can read from specific points

[@abdeljalilpr2033]

Nice project!! I want to see you melting cast iron and bronze using this induction heater

[@pyroandy3128]

Are you worried at all about shorting the induction coil with your workpiece? I've notice some other builds where they use a fiberglass looming material to cover the coil windings.

[@motherjoon]

I’ve seen people use gate drivers in ZVS circuits to turn the half sinusoid mosfet gate drive of the regular ZVS into a a square-wave one to reduce switching losses. Maybe attempt that next time?

[@jeraldboy]

I really love this video and want to try building this. I really want to build this in very small coil I want heat a very small pipe on my brass instrument can you advise how I can do this without overheating the pipe just keeping it warm ?

[@henryquispe1701]

good circuit I would like to know if this circuit could be used as a magnetic induction cooker or not?

[@smferreiro2610]

The warping has to do with thermal expansion. Copper expands with heat while soldering and contracts when cooling. A frame will just make the copper contraction to break loose the solderings. To prevent this I suggest using a non-lineal drawing. A slightly curved path between the points will absorb the dilatation. Why do we need to solder to the PCB the intermeiate points, anyway? We can solder the contacts and cold stick the rest of the path. Just my suggestion.

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

What might also help is to start by soldering both ends first, and then solder in "binary bisect mode": solder the bit at the halfway point, then solder the bits at the halfway points of the two sections you've now created, and so on, until everything is soldered.

[@joel5372]

Thanks very much for not using music background...

[@ladjkaoz]

great vid. how hot the water pump into the coil would get. Im looking to build this to heat up water that would be spray on to dry ice to create a low laid fog. Can you spread the turns of the coil to cover a larger area and get a wider hot spot. ?

[@alphahelix91]

Sehr gut ausgetüftelte Schaltung. Vor allem die wechselnde Energieversorgung über Kondensator parallel und Drossel von beiden Seiten. (nur verzögernde Steuerschlaufe) Auch die bistabile wechselseitige Diodenrückkopplungsabschaltung. Bei Trafo mit kräftiger Primärwicklung von z.B. W 400 lötet man einen Mittelabgriff bei W 200.

[@spykerhond7008]

non ferrous metal anealing heaven ! i wonder if one can draw out some solid 4 mm copper wire for the job or is clusterring better ?

[@LitchKB]

Interesting video. I was also thinking about a generator-based induction heater - getting into the 10-15kW range with a 20kVA second-hand genset. Potentially (in the future, after that) getting into higher power than that (Which is completely foreign to me, and will require a whole different set of considerations and learning curves) - but "medium DIY induction furnace" is definately one of the paths my creative endeavours seems to always realign to. I'd also be very interested in (and likely forced to) migrating to PF-corrected supply architectures as well. Subbed.

[@chrismckoy3533]

Thanks for this video, very helpful.

[@ronnytitternes3437]

Now I got a Norwegian Made CAN-Bus controller for this Huawei R4850G2 Powersuply reddy for you :D

[@mevk1]

Great heater/melter. Can't wait to see where this one takes you.

[@edsonbenetti9788]

Congratulations for the project. but by the calculations it was not more than 1500w where is the 3kw? would be putting the 65V?

[@HMProjects]

Nice project as usual, but the capacitance of the capacitor bank is a bit too high in my opinion, it should be around 1uF, it will increase the frequency and the all in all temperature of the induction heater will be reduced and another thing is the working coil is way too big, at this power the heated metal should be yellow hot, you can reduce the coil size or put an bigger metal to match the coil size. Anyway, nice work 👍!

[@thinkfirst6431]

You could use a sanding disk in a Dremel type tool to keep from having to fight the non-ferrous type metal clogging your file

[@johncoops6897]

Just rub the file with CHALK. Completely prevents chips from sticking... try it.

[@KarldorisLambley]

backyard scientist built a 6kw induction heater, and that seems waaay more than twice as powerful as your 3kw heater. his can heat a steel bar til it drips in only 30 secs. why is that? i notice that he uses IGBTs and 1 huge Cap, does that explain the difference? thanks

[@pankuntakinte]

Nice job mate!