Building a Better CoreXY Printer --- Sapphire + Duet + Mosquito + BLTouch

[@eb2615]

Thermocouples are very accurate they generate very small voltages they are not resistive devices and they need a compensation circuit this is found normally in a chip designed to be used with the thermocouple

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I stand corrected. Thank you. It appears that I added to the misinformation out there about the subject. For anyone interested here is the Wikipedia article telling how thermocouples work:en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple#Principle_of_operation

[@PoYoTheWild]

@@DesignPrototypeTest You happen to give a lot of misinformation and throw a lot of shit around.

[@jaredsmyth8666]

I’m brand new to 3d printing and found your videos while searching for a cheap way to beat a prusa. I’ve watched the Ender 3 series videos multiple times while pausing the video and using google to look up things that your saying that I don’t understand. After some time now things are starting to sink in. Now I’m watching all your 3d printer videos as I can see little things that repeat themselves in all these printers. Thanks for posting all this free content, it’s super helpful for new people. We appreciate it!

[@BuildaSkill]

The original hotend design did its job perfectly, it was engineered just well enough for someone to buy the printer, while keeping the price rock bottom. Same with the control board, bed leveling, etc. All perfectly engineered to meet the goal of being as low price as possible while still being a 3d-printer shaped object. It's all designed that way because that factory knows that there is always a market for the cheapest possible printer of each category, without regard to quality. I have a printer in this price/quality range too. There is also a market for a slightly better engineered less fuss printer (ultimaker/formlabs/prusa) and a market for a business/pay someone else to fix it printer (stratasys). Expecting competent engineering from a printer factory competing primarily on price isn't reasonable. It's like expecting good engineering/design from dollar store products.

[@angrydragonslayer]

I guess the dollar store where you live is different from the ones near me, the ones here got solid stuff Bought a socket set for $15 with a driver (says 4.8nm, is ~5.6), ratchet handle, bit holder, 10 bits, sockets 1-26 with .5 sockets until 6.5 and spares on 8, 10, 17, 19 and 21. didnt break until i put a pipe around the handle for a 10 mm bolt.

[@javitopia]

Pro tip: The duet has a dedicated signal for turning the power supply on and off. Is the ps_on signal, located in the 3 pin connector just alongside the power in connector. If you use that connector, you can use M80 (turn on) and M81 (turn off) to control the signal. As soon you send any of those 2 gcodes, the web interface (DWC) shows an extra panel which allows to control that signal. The same connector also has a 5v INPUT. So you can use a phone charger to always supply 5v to the duet so its alive and connected to the wifi with the web interface up and running. Then you could use the web interface tu turn on the rest of the printer. With no Vin, the motors, heaters and heat bed will not work, so its an extra layer of safety, since mosfets and SSR can fail closed, while relays mostly fail open. That is currently my setup. My printer has 2 power supplies, one big 24v which supplies power to all power functions (is the duet VIN), and a secondary small 12v power supply which feeds the fans, the water pump and a DC-DC 5v converter, wich feeds the duet 5V_EXT rail. A dual channel module cuts the mains from the 24v psu and the bed SSR, and the 12v rails from the fans and the pump, so the only available power is the 5v for the duet. Overkill, yes, but i'm planing to extend the setup with a smoke sensor which will cut the relay if smoke is detected. That way, the relay will only be on, if the duet request power (M80) and the smoke sensor doesn't report smoke.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Unfortunately the PS_ON pin is a switching GND pin. I need a switching 3.5v or 5v pin. Therefore, anyone wanting to use the stock power circuit on this printer will be unable to use your Pro tip.

[@javitopia]

@@DesignPrototypeTest I thought it was a normal relay module, which switches on when its signal is pulled low. The PS_on pin is an open drain output. For those who doesn’t know much about electronics, an open drain output its like a “normal” switch between the pin and ground, and the mosfet used is quite beefe, much more than an Arduino pin, that means you can directly power things via that pin. You can even control a normal relay (the relay coil, no need for a relay module with an optoisolator) just adding a flyback diode. Check this duet forum post, at the end you have an schematic to control the board via de PS_on signal forum.duet3d.com/topic/10327/connect-a-lerdge-power-monitoring-module-to-the-duet-wifi-v1-04/27?_=1591162624629 it might help you wire your board

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

DUDE! Thank you! Check out the edit to my comment above.

[@mitchell5267]

I took it a step further and added soft power to the 5vdc supply as well. www.randoprojects.com/2020/07/30/duet-2-soft-power-control/

[@mborowski2010]

I building a coreXY next. The Voron 2.4 I have a lot of money invested in my ender 3 pro, so I'm thinking of taking all those parts for my coreXY and putting the ender back to it's OG form.. with updates like the linear rails staying on of course.. But that needle nose to start the crimps.. Brilliant! You just gave me a reason to finish my pro wire harness project.. I gave up because the crimping was taking me FOREVER and wasting a lot of crimp ends. I spend $100 on wire stuff just to throw it in a box and never use it again. Well I need to buy the connectors for the DUET 2 board anyway.. I'm just redoing all the wires with aviation connectors going to the control box. And I have to start my own Duet 2 wifi box from scratch now that I know Fusion 360.. I remember watching you like Damn this guy is good at everything! Now I'm stepping up to where you used to be

[@c_o_n_t_e_n_t3420]

the stock hotend heatsink. im pretty confident in saying those fins wernt machined at all, and its probably extruded that way. alot of cheap heatsinks are made this way. it actually does work (for many applications). you obviously understand its not the most efficient use of material to maximize surface area, but it is probably the cheapest.

[@jimberg98]

That z-probe you dissed is actually a great tool to use along with the BLTouch. Use the BLTouch to scan your bed and use that probe to find a very accurate Z-offset since the BLTouch can't do that.

[@gangsterHOTLINE]

Ha! Your split loom wire puller is a slice of genius.

[@T0tenkampf]

I wish I had that when I was working in oil and gas industry.

[@samuelp1227]

I love your informative videos! I'm glad you shame the IP thieves! Some of these comments calling you out for ranting are funny. Keep it up!

[@theDude9750]

Love your reviews, only thing you really need to stop doing is the ranting. Ranting about Chinese stealing IP is just annoying because everyone knows this. If you want to grow your channel you should constrain yourself and rise above that! Keep it up! Love you!!

[@AudioPhil84]

you are right the bashing does not help, its always better to show the positiv things of the originals than picking on the copiers. I for myself like the e3d and duet3d products as i get very fast support all the time, exspecially duet support is awsome

[@syndicatedshannon]

I'm glad he uses he platform to remind people the reasons to support organizations that create the tech instead of the ones that steal it. It's like everything else, if we don't do anything, nothing changes.

[@fatassbattlecat]

Nice and relevant topics that are covered but I mostly see a lot of unreflected ranting and half knowledge that is not very pleasant to watch. It is pretty easy to solve the issues of those printers by putting in expensive components and this does not require any smartness at all, much more interesting in my opinion would be how to improve them with cheap and smart improvements

[@petergoodall6258]

Yeah, nothing original from China. Moveable type, gunpowder... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Science_and_Civilisation_in_China

[@KevinCarstens]

"Stealing the ideas of the west" he says after refering to the patent for a CoreXY printer. As a DIY maker you should not be ranting about violating interlectual property laws. His rants are emberassing. I buy genuine e3d because of the manufacturing quality, not because of the idea and if the western companies get beaten in price and quality, they deserve to lose business.

[@RGplayer101]

e3d has been using cartridge style temp sensors for a long while now with different types of sensor in them (eg pt1000) so it's far fetched to say slice engineering "came up" with it.

[@Olof123]

Robin Geelen in his words they “stole” it.

[@postalcollective7111]

I have the TwoTrees Sapphire PLUS and it does a great job for me. nice video, good lessons

[@aaronmorris9352]

Thanks, very informative video. Makes my hunt for a CoreXY a little more complicated now, but I definitely like what you've done!

[@halmiller]

You should consider seeing if you can get your hands on a new Sapphire pro or Sapphire plus. It looks like they saw your video and addressed basically every concern you had! Improved hot end (I still changed mine out for a mosquito but I think you could actually print PLA with it) Improved wiring MKS robin nano main board running a customised version of marlin (though an old version, can be updated to marlin 2.X Two stepper motor drivers for the Z axis Dreadful, borderline useless manual still exists however!

[@teardowndan5364]

I think delta has the highest potential so long as you don't mind the printer having to be at least twice as high as it is wide due to movement geometry. Its biggest challenge is accurately modeling the printer's physics (geometry + inertia) in software for precise compensation. Since all axes are involved in all movements, delta would also be uniquely well suited for non-planar slicing with little to no performance penalty should that get more widespread support in the future.

[@MaethorDerien]

The problem is that delta ends up with a fairly small xy size limitation on top of the fact that the Z is twice the height. Very few of the delta are bigger than 200mm and I don't know of any above 330mm actually. The problem is that as you get longer the arms get the more difficult to make the precise movements needed accurately the farther out from center you go. The farther out from the center the more precise it needs to be and that is more precise than you can get with most stepper and screw systems we have. I mean you might be able to do it with a geared ratio on the motor and using a linear rail but then you are likely losing most of the speed advantage you had.

[@seagullhunterfpv]

Good video. I recently bought a Sapphire Plus as a second printer while printing Face Shields for the NHS. I was looking at the Pro, but the Plus was far better since it even has linear rails for Z. I like it that much that I'm going to sell my heavily modified Ender 3 and possibly never go back to Cartesian Printers ever again 😂. Don't get me wrong the Ender 3 has been an excellent printer. Unfortunately the Plus also comes with that Crap hotend though. I was lucky enough that it never fully blocked, but it caused the extruder to strip filament on a few occasions. I've got a load of upgrades already for it though. Got a BLTouch since I'm very familiar with it as I have one on the Ender 3 and it's brilliant to be fair. Got an Anycubic Ultrabase since I've found that to be the best overall print surface, I'm changing the hotend to a E3D Chimera and have a second extruder and Motor on order. I've already put Capricorn Tube on it and I've Flashed the MKS Robin Nano board with Marlin 2.0.5.3 since the Proprietary firmware is terrible. Overall extremely happy with the printer and CoreXY is definitely the way to go in the long term.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Great comment. Thank you. However, I don't think highly of the E3D chimera. I suggest you not go down that road: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpyphGptfNF5obs Also, it just occurred to me that the Chimera heatsink is the same as the crap stock heat sink on this printer.

[@seagullhunterfpv]

@@DesignPrototypeTest I actually got given the Chimera for free from a friend to be honest and also have the Cyclops which I'm not as interested in. The heatsink does look similar, but I think it is better quality and supports a much bigger fan. If it doesn't work out though what would you suggest as the best Dual material setup?

[@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255]

Good luck printing PEEK without an enclosure or a powerful enough heatbed to reach the 160 degrees it needs. For all traditional things this seems like a solid printer though.

[@ovDarkness]

Stratasys uses H-bot not CoreXY, which was developed many years later on MIT.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I was hoping somebody would call me out on this. I didn't know what it was called but I could see it was slightly different from core XY. I think it's largely similar because of the long belts. The motion system is the same just the belt routing that's different.

[@boxsterpontus]

@@DesignPrototypeTest X gantry racking is a problem with h-bot. CoreXY removes that issue. The belts even help keeping the x gantry perpendicular to Y. It's brilliant!

[@ovDarkness]

@@boxsterpontus but belts in CoreXY are not that elegantly routed and yo can deal with shear forces on x gantry carriage by designing it bit stiffer. Still, bottom line stands. Corexy is a king of kinematics.

[@AudioPhil84]

@@boxsterpontus the design is really good and propably works for "normal" sized printers, on my big printer it was no option, the belts would be 2m long (bed 600x900mm) so i went for a H-bot setup with coupled belts to keep the x gantry square

[@GoranMilici]

They're like brother and sister. The corexy is also the hbot website. Slight difference same concept. Both great. I jumped on the corexy bandwagon late because I just purchased (calm down I know you hate these but j like the software) a mk3s with mmu2s and a mini. But my own is just like yours. Buy the saphire and k have the rest. Just ordered the due3t 3 and ghat broke the bank but I also gave original bondtech lgx with the cooperhead add on plus a separate cooperhead with the heatsink, a original e3d heremes a dyze 500c hotend and I built the voron m4 extruder. So plenty of those to choose from.

[@johnmauthner8857]

Note: These comments are not intended to be derogatory, rather they are meant for you to take to heart and perhaps use in enhancing your KZbin channels! I began as a technician and advanced over many years to the engineering ranks. My background: 1) AS Degree Drafting Technology (Old School Hand Drafting and New School CADD Drafting), 2) AA Degree in Engineering, 3) BS - Civil Engineering with Major in Transportation Design and a Minor in Soils, 4) AS Degree in Engineering (Manufacturing) Technology, 5) MS in Engineering Management from the College of Industrial Engineering. Over the course of my 45 year career, I never made personal profit for my many innovative ideas. For some it is about money while for others (myself) it is about contributing to the good of humanity and the betterment of society. Now to your commentary relative to “Is 3D Printing Dying?” and to your other “KZbin” videos. I watched while you ranted about how the Chinese steal innovative product ideas. My middle daughter is a Geneticist who had her 9 years of research stolen by Chinese researchers who were in the US for a conference. They stole her research and published it as their own! Back in the day, I worked for GE’s Battery Business Department and provided many innovative changes to the manufacturing plant and cell pack assembly designs. A delegation of engineers from a Japanese battery maker came to our plant. They took notes and made detailed drawings of my modifications while taking pictures and asking an abundance of questions. They too stole my intellectual property! During the early days (70s, 80s and 90s) of the computer revolution, Bill Gates made Windows his own although it clearly was an Apple innovation. Gates tried to proclaim DOS was the superior operating system, however, while AIX, UNIX and other multiplexing platforms were in development Microsoft built a multiplexing kernel with a DOS shell on top. Microsoft practiced buying out all of their competition and faced Federal charges and fines for monopolizing their competitors. Long story short, it happens all the time. It just happens to be the Chinese government doing it now. Now to you and your comments! I met many Chinese students in my master’s program and was able to talk to them about their culture. They told me that it was their job to come to the US and take back to China as much technology as possible. It is not a crime in China to take intellectual property from others to make it their own (China’s own)! This should not be a surprise to you as you deal with Chinese manufacturers on a daily basis. Also, I was able to determine that they memorized everything. They did not learn, they memorized! Therefore, they cannot generate innovative ideas since innovation comes from learning, applying and making mistakes. Innovation does not come easy! At first, I was very impressed with the amount of work you put into your KZbin channel, however, I soon became disenchanted by your constant ranting and negative remarks about how bad the Marlin motherboard of the Chinese maker was and how cheaply it was made when compared to the high end Duet. That is like comparing an Arduino Uno to the Raspberry Pi 4. The Arduino Uno is clearly not in the league of the Raspberry Pi 4, yet you ranted about their poor quality parts, low memory, bad heat sink, poor connectivity, etc. Lastly, you threw the board into the trash and blasted the Chinese for their poor quality. You failed to see that the 8 bit board and low memory met its initial intent. You cannot compare a VW Beetle to a Cadillac Coupe Deville, while they both get you from point A to B they clearly are not equivalent. Your story line was to focus on the upgrade of the 3D printer and you completely lost focus. So much so that I (like many others) will unsubscribe from your channel. Overall, you provide certain value to your subscribers while holding them hostage to obtain the design files for your widgets? With each new video I noticed that your Patreon contributors increased and increased, then you complained that too many people were unsubscribing from this channel. The main reason why I will unsubscribe from your channel is due to your insistence that people pay for “your” innovation. You need to understand that taking others people's innovation and including it in your 3D printed parts does not warrant you claiming that it is equivalent to a patent. If you feel they are patent worthy, then you need to seek and pay for your patent privileges. American Chopper claimed to be chopper designers, but when they did a build against Jesse James, they found out that they were not designers. Anyone can take a standard frame, modify it and put a standard high performance engine into it and claim that it is a unique design. Jesse bought raw materials and forged his own frames and made design modifications to the engines he put on his choppers. Again, clearly another case of comparing apples to oranges. A word to the wise, don’t mess with the big red machine (China)! This too shall pass. India engineers and innovators are on the rise! America’s real innovation is in the products produced in the USA and the material innovations for metal 3D printers and others. Good luck!

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

>although it clearly was an Apple innovation. As Gates said to Jobs in front of an audience: "Well, Steve, I think there's more than one way of looking at it. I think it's more like we both had this rich neighbor named Xerox and I broke into his house to steal the TV set and found out that you had already stolen it." Xerox was actually the first to do the GUI. They both "stole" it, but they both made it different. It was not a clone. It was copy and improve.Copycats have always been a thing, which was bad enough. My grandfather got his patented products copied by another manufacturer in L.A. back in the 70's. But the copies were never carbon coppies and everyone knew they were buying the inferior version. Never before has copying/cloning existed at this level. The CCP is hunting innovation to death leaving no stone upturned in it's quest to eradicate the innovator. Imitation is flattery. Except when it crosses the line and does harm. Defending innovation is a core value of this channel whether or not I personally came up with the innovation. Apparently this rubs you the wrong way. You said "So much so that I (like many others) will unsubscribe from your channel." To which I respond: Please do! Also, you can click on the three little dots and then select "Don't recommend channel" I reciprocate your your repulsion. I hope I never hear from you again.

[@bushboy567]

These arguments about the "copying of intellectual property" are a waste of time and energy. Asia (not just China) has been ALLOWED by the West to become the manufacturing base for the West by West's own poor strategic decisions in this regard. The manufacturing base of the US has been decimated by themselves! Now - decades later - these chickens are coming home to roost! One may not like it, but if the other party is NOT going to listen to your arguments (however logical and ethical they may be), and instead of pulling back, is instead going to INTENSIFY its efforts in this direction, then the question that must be properly attended to is ... "What are you going to do about it, Dude???" Wallowing in tears at the "injustice of it all" is NOT going to help dealing with a bully. The problem for the West, is that the "Chinese Model" has worked VERY WELL for the Chinese. It is in fact the basic common-sense model for getting a leg-up for anybody that is in a currently inferior position. Take note of what your competitors are doing that is better than you, and then at first, just copy that. Then, with that newly-gained knowledge and experience, leverage this to put your own stamp on it, and make it your own. China is still busy finding its own identity in this regard. Not there yet maybe, but rapidly coming! The US has to pick itself up, and take an honest look in the mirror. The Chinese (or anyone else working this same "business" model) are NOT going to change their tactics. The US has to outdo the Chinese at their own game, or else eventually go to the wall as a failed state! EVERY product and business model has its own "life Model". NOTHING lasts forever. Millennia ago, the Romans were the dominant force (and justifiably so). Now? They were brutally pushed aside by competing forces and ideas, and succumbed because they were NOT adaptive to these changing circumstances. Sounds eerily familiar to the present discussion, huh? Their descendants, the Italians, are now just a tourist curiosity. I'm an inventor myself, and companies have stolen "MY IDEA" and made a HUGE profit out of doing so. Would a "patent" have helped me? Nope! A patent is worth very little if you don't have the means to defend it! And most people (myself included don't). The patent system only makes the patent attorneys rich. Very rarely the inventors. 95% of patents NEVER make it commercially. More people have been RUINED by throwing money at protecting their "patentable invention", than actually making money from it. My idea was neat and original, but not so special that it could not have been circumvented by some smartypants who had the chutzpah, money and experience to do a MUCH better job at getting the idea (my idea!) into market than me. Which is exactly what happened! If your idea - and particularly ALSO your business implementation of it - is not so strong that it cannot survive copycat competition, then you need to revisit the wisdom of putting ANY money into it. Lesson for me for next time ... Move faster to market, and with more energy. You WILL be copied. Regardless. Establish a strong "brand" as much as possible. And - the real life lesson from all this unpleasantness - get going with the NEXT iteration, or even better, a new product, ASAP. That is, pick yourself up off the ground, square your shoulders, start again, and ... apply the "Chinese Model" (actually not unique to the Chinese at all, just plain common-sense), to one's own business and outlook. The USA, as a nation, has to do the same.

[@plus1miniatures344]

Thanks for the video! Still rocking the 1960's thermostat I see!

[@GlenBeer]

My thought exactly - might be a humidity control but same - 60's style!

[@T0tenkampf]

I like that you are replacing the chinesium with western components and calling them out for theft of intellectual property. Looks like you get some hate for it though. oh well. I wish that I could run Klipper on Duet boards. That seems to have the most support and I am new to 3D printers.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Reprep firmware iMUCH easier to deal with and has 98% of the features that Klipper has and some features which Klipper doesn't. It just doesn't have as much hype behind it. That being said, I've been told that you can run Klipper on a duet control board.

[@DoRC]

Tpu on pei is super easy. Just spray the pei with windex and wipe off before printing then use a few drops of rubbing alcohol around the perimiter of the print to release. Works perfectly every time

[@rpnct]

Compared to size (assuming a cubic build volume for simplicity) the mass of a bed increases as the square of the dimensions, while a bar increases linearly (assuming you keep similar thickness for each component as size increases, which should be the case for consumer level printers).

[@livedeliciously]

I'd like to see you cover the Cartesian movement. From what I've seen, the modern ones are damn impressive. Annex K series comes to mind.

[@T0tenkampf]

I too am curious how the quad drive cross gantry (CroXY) compare to the AWD CoreXY as well.

[@1akmason]

i got my first duet 2 wifi board (and yes you convinced me with your videos) I’m sold for people who think it’s a little too expensive considering a lot of the $20 32 bit mainboards out there you have no clue, you pull up a browser and you make whatever changes you want no more going back opening it in another program in searching down to make your changes this thing is crazy, i’m hoping matterhackers get more in stock because I’m now changing all my printers over to one. i’ve never sponsored through Patreon a KZbin channel before you’re actually going to be my first

[@gloopann]

Why not go with a RasPi and Klipper?

[@bradleystrazzarino4909]

So, this video is the very first video of yours that I have watched. This entire time I have been extremely frustrated with trying my hand at modifying marlin firmware on my computer. I am buying a duet board as we speak! I had no idea duet 2 WiFi had that firmware ability! Also I have subscribed. Thank you for that amazing information!

[@gloopann]

RasPi with Klipper can do the same thing

[@matthewconway6083]

If you don't have multiple surfaces, wiping down pei with a sprinkle of baby powder let's tpu stick just well enough that you don't damage while removing

[@kyledavis417]

Klipper allows you change the firmware from octoprint using octoklipper

[@ConstantijnC]

aw i missed the premiere :( I calculated the time zones wrong! But great video! Just got a mosquito myself. I didn't install it yet, but the build quality of that part is already incredible 😍

[@syndicatedshannon]

@DPT: I replied to someone who dislikes your "vs. IP theft ranting". I actually appreciate you reminding us of it. BUT, just the same as other topics, I'd like for it to be densely-packed information, delivered effectively. I for one would like even more information. For example, I just bought an Ender 3, and now I wonder if I should have sent that money elsewhere. If you presented a section at the 1 min mark on EVERY video, "here are some of the non-theft products you can buy related to this video. here are some references that suggest other companies have harmful business practices, and I don't buy from them"

[@jmtx.]

Thanks for running us through all your upgrades. Quite interesting and informative. As for Statasys, they use H-bot, not the same as CoreXY.

[@andreaserb9920]

Hi, this was a cool video. Just a question: How did you get PIN3 to a high signal to switch of the PowerSupply. Even better: What code did you use for the marco... ;-) Keep up the interesting tests!

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; disable heater functionality on H3 and use it as a signal pin instead M42 P3 S255 I1 ; Send the "keep Power Supply On" signal to the Power Control PCB

[@keithduffield5239]

Seeing your design background you may find resonance with what I am about to say. I always find it amusing when someone wants to know the temperature (or whatever technical parameter) to within 1 deg when the temperature choice is anyhow a somewhat subjective and arbitrary choice from within a 10 deg workable window. As long as it is reasonably repeatable, which ironically is exactly where a thermocouple is very poor, unless one spends $100 on an instrumentation grade thermocouple amplifier/interface.

[@dascodraws6040]

I'll definitely reference this when modifying my first core xyz.

[@jmz8086]

Hey another great video!! Have you ever thought of building a voron and doing some videos about it?

[@ediik]

FINALY! was waiting for this Video for aaagges :D

[@RobertShaverOfAustin]

I'm only interested in a printer that can print engineering grade plastic such as nylon and polycarbonate. That's why I subscribed to your channel and why I like the Sapphire + the mods you suggest. *QUESTION:* If you have an insulating enclosure, do you have to heat the bed?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

It would still be a good idea, given enough time in the enclosure, the bed should reach ambient temperature. It would be better to have the bed be slightly warmer than ambient. If anything is going to shrink you don't want it to be the intersection of the part and the bed.

[@RobertShaverOfAustin]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Thanks for the quick response and the info. Looking forward to more high temp printing vids.

[@eb2615]

Thermocouples can be used at extremely high temperatures that are used in industrial furnaces you just have to pick the correct device

[@t3cker]

Just a quick thought: Might there be any significant improvements regarding acceleration by replacing the steel rods for x and y by carbon ones? Inertia and following the stress for the motors should be reduced to ~25%. Torsion and motion strengh should be fine to handle the momentum resulting of effektor and belt tension.

[@ChristopherGoggans]

Possibly, but as always there are significant challenges and tradeoffs. This was widely debated back and forth in the Voron slack channel and on Reddit while the designer Maksim was working on designing version 2 of the Voron. I remember some of the community members ended up trying this as a mod for their design but from what I remember they had substantial challenges. Essentially, the carbon fiber is very strong for its weight ratio, but isn't at all able to stand up to the cylindrical Bearings everyone was using running on the 8mm rods back then. Second, 8mm hollow carbon fiber wasn't stiff enough to properly support the hotend, so parts had to be redesigned to accommodate a 10-12mm carbon fiber tube. To replace the cylindrical bearings some of the community concluded the best option was likely Igus bushings. They're a high end press fit bushing designed to be self lubricating, and as they're made of plastic themselves, they aren't as likely to damage the carbon fiber rods. In the end, I think Maksim decided the best option was to go the other direction and instead to use small, stiff linear rails for at least the xy motion as their design best lent themselves to a high speed, high quality printer.

[@t3cker]

@@ChristopherGoggans Yea I had those thoughts for the x and y axis itself, too. Linear rails are the better option for those, maybe with a carbon substructure instead of aluminium. Thats not the point I referred to, I want to replace the vertical steel rods that are connecting the motors with the belts gears. Dimensions are more significant for inertia, 3/4th or more reduced mass for full carbon rods should be overthought, too. But there is another problem if I want to use them in an heated chamber. I don't know how their strenth will react to high temperatures

[@Falcon_Overland]

What would you say is the best out of the box corexy 3D printer that’s above 350mm2 for a startup engineering firm. Will mainly be printing petg-cf. preordered a prusa xl but doubt I’ll get it before October

[@charliemedrano]

I made the mistake of buying the Sapphire Pro and have had nothing but problems, I was sent a unit that was obviously from early in production. For instance the XY assembly was put together backwards and along with poorly designed and badly/cheaply implemented "features, " it was and is still a nightmare. I have kind of abandoned the thing, with regret. I wish you would do a video on the Sapphire Pro and how to get it working without spending a ton... I took your advice and got the duet2, and I would love to get a mosquito, but I am hesitant to invest any more on this.

[@catalinalb1722]

Thanks to your Channel I know about the Duet Board and BL Touch sensor which I ordered for the Geetech A30. Recently I ordered a direct extruder for it. Can you recommend any other upgrades to it? As I Said I think a Live session would help and solidify your subscribers. 😊

[@justchill4886]

i have some questions 1 is using a shaft for driving core system has any disadvantages? 2 is using a small rubber feet bolted in frame really dampen vibrations?

[@almonster2066]

How about a video on the use of an SKR Mini E3 V2 and BL-touch on this machine? The SKR boards are so popular now.

[@Skott62]

So in your opinion how large of a format does it need to be for CoreXY to be the ideal? You didn't say how large. Are we talking larger than say a CR10? Sorry if this is a noob question. I'm trying to learn here. Thanks for uploading this video. I found it interesting.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Starting at 300mm X300mm.

[@netwolfstar]

So you could build a corexy hypercube or baby Viking for same price with duet or skr , I think the Vking or ender 5upgraded would be better value. Agreed Ender is note corexy but print quality with some minor mods seems to be good as opposed to Saphire. The new Saphire pro seems to have issues with Z rods and ends stops etc. alternative I have seen is the Creative/Kenovo Elf with dual Z rods but not many reviews. Also Creality are due to release some new corexy like designs ender 6 and cp05

[@Javiercav]

What do you think about H-Bot printers ? I bought my printer a few years ago thinking it was CoreXY and then I learned that H-bot was a thing. But I’m really happy with it. I’m looking into upgrade the printer with 32bit controller and some similar mods like yours to make it better and also a bit better looking. Etc.

[@jbitt]

H-bot designs preceded CoreXY. CoreXY was developed to solve a problem with h-bot designs in that the forces on the belts can easily induce racking of the gantry. With CoreXY the belts cross paths and the forces are distributed to parallel corners instead of opposite corners conspiring to twist the gantry. So while an h-bot is slightly easier to build, the advantages of the CoreXY layout make them completely obsolete.

[@Javiercav]

Jason Bitterly thanks for the explanation. I think that I will not be able con upgrade my printer to corexy with my current knowledge. But since I got it working sufficient enought for my use. I will probably mantain it until it’s obsolete. But without doubt my next printer will be a corexy when i feel the need to a full printer upgrade or a 2nd one. I really like way it works. I often print architecture I found that the little movement of the bed help with the stability of small columns during printing and avoid some falls that I’ve had in Mendel like printer before I had mine.

[@kevinschilling6813]

Is there a way you could share a link to where I can find the power button interface board you mentioned.. I have looked but didnt catch what you called the board. Thx

[@IggyRed]

Pretty much the exact same setup as mine, except I replaced the bowden extruder with a zesty nimble

[@brianhutch4435]

Zesty Nimble

[@ltribley]

This is great, but, whenever you do a build or make modifications on an existing printer please provide us with a breakdown of costs, including tools and time. Total, and line by line for each part, shipping and sales tax if any. It's also important to estimate the time invested (inc research & tech support) at an hourly rate. Please distinguish machines and parts that are provided free by manufacturer/supplier, their retail equivalents, and those you purchase. It's the only way 3D printer nerds can determine whether or not to proceed with a similar project. This is just part of typical project planning, budgeting, plus being used for business taxes.

[@dominicksansone6868]

Seriously? I think that's asking a bit much.

[@jamescullins2709]

I see there is a Sapphire Plus out that I believe has fixed a lot of the issues of the pro.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

It is inferior because the only feature that sets the sapphire apart from all the other Chinese CoreXY printers is missing: X&Y Stepper motors mounted beneath the floor.

[@f1hotrod527]

Do you give up accuracy in the coreXY compared to the Prusia / CR-10 style?

[@ZoeyR86]

your correct reprap firmware had pressure advance a full year before marlin

[@Olof123]

techmasterjoe yeah but pressure advance and linear advance is completely different from the mathematical side.

[@liftsalot]

Honestly, this looks too dope not to try. Love the components you picked but I think I'd try to get a Nimble direct drive extruder since it combines the benefits of Bowden and Direct drive. The goal is to get at least 200mm/s so I'll probably need better motors.

[@danielhempy627]

So where would you start "today" since the Saphire S is generally unavailable if you were to create an equivalent to your Saphire S (Duet, Print Head, Corexy, Enclosed)?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

It's a tough call. These chinese companies seem to pop up make a run of these CoreXY printers then, once sold out they just fade away. Another example is the "Coreception." Your best bet is probably a Voron. More expensive, but a great end product and a huge community to help you along the way.

[@danielhempy627]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Thanks. Voron is on my radar. I'll have to go look and see about those specific upgrades (duet, print head, etc.). Keep up the great work!

[@thomaswehrmeyer9641]

I need a large format printer with an x and y axis producing 20 inch parts. So a core xy printer would be the design to use. I was thinking that if I mounted the extruder un a movable mount so the bowden tube could be kept to a minimum length which should help precision of the print. I imagine I will need to print in nylon/chopped carbon fiber mix which requires high temperature so finding a bed heater and a power supply large enough to supply the power.

[@braccopls9025]

the Stratasys patent seems to use what it's called (unofficially) a "slid3r" kinematic. it's something that some dude found in an old plotter years ago iirc. there are some videos of somebody that built a printer with that kinematic. look on youtube "New Slid3r Style 3d Printer"

[@new1ru]

Actually you've missed the biggest design mistake on a PRO. While scaling an S up they've somehow managed to mess with the belt paths. PRO's belts are *not parallel to the axes on critical sections* and they are parallel on "idle" sections where it's not needed. Also, S had a superior board (lerdge vs pro's laggy robin nano), better hardware interface (usb on it's face, power control), nice bearings. PRO's stated print field of 235^2 is unachievable in stock form etc etc. The only real advantage of Pro, i assume, is it's got a bit less idiotic print head design. Still a really weak one, but at least it's a bit more compact. By the way, they've somewhat fixed stupid blind heat sink/radiator in later versions, but i'm printing with the old one on temperatures up to 240 (260 was my highest) with no clogs, oddly enough. If someone's having this issues i'd recommend try holding the tube retainer upwards when you push the tube in, may be that's the key.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

You are right! I completely forgot to talk about belt paths in this video. I meant to mention it. The non-pro version has the same issue. China can't get anything right!

[@new1ru]

​@@DesignPrototypeTest The original one was called Sapphire S. From what i've seen it's looks like it had all the motion done right, hadn't it? There also is a Plus version out now, an even bigger upscale with different bed mount design (4 rods, 2 screws iirc) which also features same flawed belt routing... But if you'd want to check this out i'd suggest you look at the Elf printer, this one absolutely looks like the next evolutionary step of the Sapphire family, but a bit more refined or something:) Also Pro's motherboard manufacturer, Makerbase used to have their (Marlin-based) firmware closed against the license but they've finally made their sources open. It is kinda late, but it's still better then never i suppose.

[@lastofthedesper8s]

G'day, so what is your thoughts on something like the Project R3D "Daedalus", just interested to know, thankyou.

[@mastabas]

I almost thought the new TronXY D01 on their website was the same printer but it looks like there are some minor differences. Im looking for an upgrade to my x5s-400. I have it modded and tuned so it prints fantastic except for the Z-axis. I have my i3 Frankenstein printing near perfectly but the x5s has the slightest wobble which keeps me from achieving those perfect PETG parts that I need.

[@malloott]

I know you love your Duet and they probably sponsor you. But you should really try to use Octoprint and Klipper on a machine and see how it compares. It can turn most old printers and printer boars in to a capable modern machine

[@seanwood5443]

Yeah but in order to get octoprint u need as raspberry pi and shit the duet stock board does it all I just upgraded to a duet mastero and u can do everything that octoprint can just with the stock board

[@seanwood5443]

Duet I think if far superior its all in one

[@TootEmCarMan]

That tool that you said is your own design for fitting cables into the split cable sleeving is most certainly NOT your own design. I bought some split cable sleeving from a shop called Pound Land more than 2 years ago and it came with a tool that looks exactly like "your" one.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Show me a picture. I'll show you the CAD work I did and the 3D print file. Proving my work is original. I guarantee that it doesn't look *exactly* the same. I didn't claim I invented the concept. Just looking at the split tubing it's clearly designed to use such a tool. As I said in the video I went looking for a solution someone else already made but I couldn't find one so I made it. My question for you is why the animosity? Why does your comment feel like I'm being attacked?

[@frankogara8774]

I saw long while ago a Tronxy X5 ST 3d printer because you said is the best, I put it together and I have not a single successful print out of it. Is sitting in a cornet of my basement collecting dust. So the question is do you have the upgrades and mods need to make this printer work or I just take my lost and tossed it to the garbage. ? Thank you in advance

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Franko, To this day that is still the best large format CoreXY printer on the market. There is pretty much no other option. If there was a printer that just worked out of the box, you would pay thousands of dollars for it. For instance watch my videos about the E3D tool changer which is also CoreXY. You can definitely get your printer working quite well. Start by getting it working well enough in it's stock form to print all the upgrades. You will find many upgrades on thingiverse. Most importantly the stiffened brackets so that the frame doesn't flex as badly and so the pulleys are held more rigidly. Finally, you should upgrade to a Duet control board as I showed in this video. I did make a BLTouch split cooling bracket for your printer. If you would like that head over to Patreon: www.patreon.com/designprototypetest I share any and all files I make in the course of these videos with my $5 supporters. I'm not selling files, I'm just trying to make my KZbin efforts worth my while. The digital files end up being a nice reward for the folks that help me out. Have a great day!

[@BNSEFH]

Can you please post a link to your example duet config files for the sapphire? I'm setting mine up now and there is a lot to fix so a decent starting point would be very welcome (both in terms of time saved and potential catastrophic mistakes avoided :) ) Thanks!

[@GoranMilici]

You do know the meaning of open source? I don't believe they were trying to pass the configuration tool as an original. I still see those kind of websites up in Spanish fir Marlin which I use sometimes. They have it for cheetah and th3d. It's thievery when they try to pass it for their own. And the way you're going off on them and calling them names makes you sound bitter and angry. Not a good look on a grown man talking about 3d printers.

[@elmariachi5133]

Too bad this printer isn't available anymore :( I had to save money for so many months, and now there only is the successor "Sapphire Pro" which is said to be terrible. Especially the motors above the printing area seem a bad idea, because they are gonna get hot there for sure while printing higher temp materials with enclosure.

[@SrFrozen]

Take a look at SecKit's printers. They have very good core XY printers. Look up Teaching Tech's video on the SK-Go

[@mastermoarman]

Nice. How are things going with the e3d tool change printer. Have you looked at the white knite printer? I'm wanting to build one but having a hard time justifying a 400 dollar belt

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

The belt is what makes that printer special. Longevity and toughness would be my concern more than the price tag. I would be worried about how easy the belt is to damage. For instance, look at "The Ender 3 Evolution" video where I showed a ruined print surface because I printed PETG too close to the bed. Is it that easy to destroy the $400 belt? How long will it last before cracking as it bends over the rollers.

[@mastermoarman]

@@DesignPrototypeTest I to have destroyed a pei bed by printing to close. the bom on his github for the printer calls for a Full hardened Stainless steel belt 400mm x 1920mm

[@markusmaeder1388]

Do you get paid to use duet boards in every printer? ;) And for bashing chinese companies? ;) I agree, that quality is key and many products from china are not really well done. You get what you pay for. Knowledge should be free to be used by everyone to enable fast development of mankind. Every patent just slows this down. Copying is not a bad thing, if you still deliver quality. And I am sure, there are a lot of very smart people in china and I know that there are really dump people in the US and Europe. Smatness is not bound to location. If you have a really good product, you don't have to hide behind patents. I really like to pay a little bit more, if I get a decent product with good support. That's why I have an original Prusa I3 mk3s. I use it to tune the quality of the cheap printers I bought.... :)

[@thegeniusman8757]

Wait a sec... You're against intellectual property?

[@AudioPhil84]

i can't blame him, i started working with duet boards for my diy printers (400x400 and 600x900 printbeds both with chimera aqua in a heated chamber) and i like them so much, i even put on into my old anet a8 ;-)

[@airgliderz]

@@thegeniusman8757 clearly you are not intellectual...

[@TheOfficialDarkICE]

@@thegeniusman8757 Do you even realize that duet open source their boards?

[@iwokky]

Totally wrong. There will be no progress without adequate monetary motivation.

[@cdl1701]

Would you say that the performance of the Mosquito hotend offsets the cost compared to the the V6? I have been wanting to get one but just having a hard time justifying the cost if the performance/part quality is no different.

[@dallibabs]

I really like this printer but would you say with the upgrades can it hang with a voron or hevo? Edit...

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

The Voron has many 3D printed structural pieces as does the Hyper Cube Evolution. That means you shouldn't put it in a heated chamber as these structural parts will soften and warp. The Railcore is viable option but it's a lot more expensive.

[@dallibabs]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Ok thanks I didn't consider the printed parts that go into the other printers. But print quality wise do you think there is much in it between the three?

[@SateenDuraLuxe]

If that were my house I would repaint the walls white. The beige paint, beige drape, beige thermostat, and beige table make your house look unappealing on video. It also makes the white balance of the video too warm.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Unfortunately, I rent. I am not allowed to paint. I'll go back to draping the white curtain across the background.

[@SateenDuraLuxe]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Sorry if I came across as a dick in the original comment, but bad white balance is a big pet peeve of mine. Especially when its never been easier to get it right either in-camera or in your video editor. The warm white balance and all the yellow tones in the video give it this old 70's kind of vibe. A more neutral color balance would make your videos look much better.

[@t1mmy13]

Came here for an interesting video, left because of your hysterical ranting about china

[@hgn98009]

How about combining the Mosquito with a Flex3drive while you are at it? Maybe this wouldlet you print flexibles quick and accurate?

[@albertoflecha2388]

Have you looked at the creality Ender 6? If yes, whats your opinion?

[@graemebarton4150]

Love your videos, passion for 3D printing and expertise I’m trying to decide between a two trees sapphire is or a SecKit go, ur thoughts pls

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

SecKit Go seems nice. It comes from Taiwan not Mainland China. Therefore it may be more expensive, but also better quality control. It is a small outfit, and I think you will get good customer service. I don't love any of the current lineup of TwoTrees except maybe the Sapphire Plus. If you buy a Two Trees product, you will need to do all the trouble shooting yourself. If you get SecKit, you can get a lot more support from the manufacturer.

[@graemebarton4150]

Design Prototype Test thanks for your feedback, you have verified my gut feel on the Sec kit, the old you get what you pay for comes into play, keep up the good work too, your vids are awesome

[@shamarrj123456789oab]

With the amount of upgrades you minus well start looking into the more expensive corexy printers

[@medyk3D]

CoreXY is the way to go 👍

[@tictacX1]

Hi and great video. What brand would you then recommend for a large volume (400 x 400 x 400) CoreXY printer? I'm thinking of SX4 v2 (modified Hieha SX4 from TinyMachines), TRONXY X5ST-500 PRO and the Xinkebot Orca 2 Cygnus (400x400x500)?

[@JonathanKainzner]

A core xy over 350mm isn't that good

[@MatthewBowe]

Out of morbid curiosity... What was the final cost of this amazing upgrade, all things considered?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

~$810, but when I got the machine it only cost $350. If I were to build the same thing today it would cost ~$940.

[@MatthewBowe]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Thanks for replying. I genuinely love your videos. I'm surprised it didn't break $1000. Amazing work.

[@dennysage121]

that werent a heatsink...it was the DIY watercooling adapter you just jamb the copper tubing in between the fins and youre done!

[@fozbstudios]

How can you print such hot material without an enclosure

[@gloopann]

You are lying when you say there isn’t any other firmware or anything that allows you to change the firmware through a website... Klipper does it through Fluidd or Mainsail

[@herksen]

'You are lying"........ sounds quite aggressive. There are nicer ways to say something like that..... Please be polite.... and you will be much respected for that...

[@morningstarsci]

There are 3 Sapphire S machines out apparently. There is the S1, S2, and S3... which do you have?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

TwoTrees Sapphire S with no number so I guess I have the S1

[@BenEBrady]

Matt, where did you get the Hi-Link power module that's used to turn on the printer?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

It came with the printer. Also available on Ebay, but it's a little pricey: www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Power-Monitoring-Module-Print-Automatically-Put-off-For-Lerdge/202664564015?hash=item2f2fbfd52f:g:bJcAAOSwK2JcxdiD

[@BenEBrady]

@@DesignPrototypeTest thank you!

[@BrianMaynardLetsDoThisThing]

Wish you made this video before I started building my printer 🤨

[@netwolfstar]

So yellow was stock , and green is mosquito so no change with upgraded heat sink for hot end??

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

For that print there was no change in print quality. If you can get a successful print from the stock hotend+heatsink, you won't notice a difference in print quality. Getting filament to reliably feed through the stock heatsink is an iffy proposition. You never know when the stock hotend will jam, but it will jam eventually ruining your print(s). Heat creap is the number one issue in hotend design. It's the reason hotend heatsinks even exist in the first place.

[@declinox]

Thanks for this, I was hoping for a video on CoreXY printers :)

[@jstro-hobbytech]

How many duet boards do you have man? Haha

[@iwokky]

Do you have that wires fishing tool listed on Thingiverse as promised? I couldn’t find it. Share the link please😉

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4415107

[@samiant5199]

Enjoyed the video but the "China" bashing does get tiring. There are good Chinese companies and manufactures out there.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Creality is pretty decent. I wish they hadn't knocked off the Bondtech gears. Other than that, their printers seem to be pretty free and clear of being copycat products.

[@keithduffield5239]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Pray tell. How do you unlearn an idea you saw.

[@greevous]

I think he has a thing against anything not of American design a MAGA type person.

[@fredriklarsen5968]

True, this guy is an ass

[@rogeriohein849]

Trump is fired, but some guys will never learn. Chinese engineering is so capable to design and build all the wonders of technology, wake up! This "copycat" argument is so stupid. About all the best engineering courses in American universities have Chinese PhDs as Professors in their staff. What level of "technology" has a 3-D printer of this kind? Wake up, please!

[@morto360]

For somebody who doesnt print much and where speed does not matter much.. what would be the best printer around 300-400 euros? Just talking about quality of the print, regular PLA no resin!

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Ender 3. Hands down. $189 from creality3dshop.

[@morto360]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Does the Duet board improve the print quality in any way or is it mostly usability?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Usability. There are small improvements that can be made such as pressure advance and dynamic acceleration but 98% of the quality can be achieved with the stock control board on an Ender 3. It's all about the slicer. If you are going to use Cura, definitely watch all of the Filament Friday videos by CHEP. I use Simpify3D. Cura is free, Simplify3D is $150. Here is my playlist about the ender 3. Definitely check out "The Ender 3 Evolution" build: kzbin.info/aero/PLtVk4dZInT80SCVB_Pgrn1zZThO3nmV7B

[@morto360]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Thanks! I did watch your evolution build, thats how I found this channel in teh first place :) kinda new here.

[@morto360]

@@SianaGearz Seems like a nice printer, but according to just a few quick searches I did, has its own issues too... so if I have to do some work on my own to get both of them run properly, is the price of the mini justified?

[@ColBol7]

Are the rods steel? Tech2c used carbon fibre rods in his hypercube. Don't know how much about the pros and cons including how much weight could be saved or the cost?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Tech2C's WONDERFUL video series about the Hypercube culminated with him using carbon fiber linear rods and IGUS Drylin bushing-bearings. This printer uses Linear Motion Rails. There is no lightweight version of a linear motion rail, so, sadly I can't follow Tech2C's example.

[@lloydpennington10]

Kinda ironic that whilst ranting about China stealing IP, is pointing to the Chinese built core XY printer. I guess standing up for western designed and built has a price limitation that buying Chinese built products can meet so while the so much better western products were told to lend our support are too expensive.

[@johnbrodzinski6279]

can you tell me where you got the Mosquito mounting bracket

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I drew it up in CAD and then printed it from Polycarbonate.

[@thevoidedwarranty]

U might not be as smart as the engineers at startesus systems, but there are alot of people that actually are .

[@RinksRides]

Your inertial mass argument does not factor for the mass of a large print being moved back and forth... Therefore core XY is superior in that if a print became partially detached for any reason, it's more than likely to finish successfully on a core XY.

[@danieldenault8575]

michael and his minions are STILL disleading customers. thank you

[@gryzman]

I'd embrace 3. Just like I mentioned when talking to you, mine came with 3 - and I stuck to it.

[@Graham_Wideman]

Three what?

[@VictorDiaz-lo2mu]

You shouldn't generalise with regards to chinese companies. You could say, “many chinese companies just copy“, but messagess like “It is the only thing China can do“ are dangerous and far from reality. Excellent video by the way

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

>far from reality. Is is though? China is the source of all the growth on planet earth these days. Yet you are hard pressed to think of one innovation that originated there since gun-powder. Something about that country/culture makes them unable to innovate in new ways. That sounds like an offensive statement, but just take a reasonable look and try to find data. You won't find innovation coming from China. All you see is copying of innovation by Chinese companies across all business sectors. When it's prevalent through the entire system, then you can generalize to the entire country and say "China can't innovate."

[@BugIronOnHerHip]

Are there any plans to add the zesty nimble to this printer?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I want to, but using a nimble in a chamber is an iffy unproven proposition with it's plastic gearing.

[@nobodytoyou4887]

@npgoalkeeper _ Depending on the plastic the gears are made of it could be an issue in a heated chamber, stuff like PETG starts getting soft around 80-90c and if your heating your chamber to 100c then well your gears etc will start getting soft and not work as gears. (granted if they use something like nylon then there shouldn't be an issue but again depends on what they make it out of.)