Building a bigger blowtorch

Not a hotter flame, just a lot more of it!

[@franky1pro1]

Sir, you ARE a genius. Thank you for sharing.

[@mikenovember5884]

Seriously I think he is a genius on some type of level. The way he speaks and his tone of voice mixed with his extensive knowledge.

[@6lr6ak6]

His voice, when he speaks l keep seein Anthony Perkins (Norman Bates) in my mind But yes he's put together a great powerful blowtorch here.

[@robertoduran8388]

@@6lr6ak6 JJ ñ, CC V$

[@VideoDroidORG]

This is incredible I wish youtube had much more of this type of thing. It amazed me how complex a butane/propane torch flame is compared to a simple yellow flame.

[@clkindred]

+Largemouth Bass (esp) Yep, gas burners are very complicated. Thanks for the comment!

[@bryanwalsh9305]

Hey CLKINDRED, I just wanted to tell you that this DIY was really good and detailed. I noticed that a lot of people had some of the same questions that I did when I finally got around to gathering the parts to built your torch. I like others was looking for all the parts and couldn't find the apple corer and the face bushing. So heres what I did and maybe it will help others. As for the apple corer, it has been discontinued from walmart so I looked in virtually every other store but couldn't find it. After racking my brain I measured my wifes, which looked identical to yours but was a Pampered Chef and she threatened to kill me if I took it...lol, and it measured 7/8" ID. I was walking through Lowes and happened to look over and see some small outdoor solar lamps for walkways. After buying it for $7.00, I took it home, popped off the lamp and the ground spike and found it to be perfect match. The tube is just a little longer which I used a pipe cutter to get it the lenthg I wanted. As for the face bushing, I bought a Brass Pipe Reducer Coupling 1/2" FIP x 3/8" FIP, put it into my lathe and milled the 1/2" side down to a perfect 7/8". Its snug but just to keep it from falling out, after assembling the inside components, I slid it into the tube and used a micrometer to get the perfect depth, then drilled and tapped a hole to place a small stainless steel screw. It all fits together perfect and keeps the combustion holes from sliding into the tube and the insides from sliding out of the tube. BTW, I found that a 3/8" x 3" long brass pipe was the perfect length. To all, I'm sorry for the length but I hope it helps everyone who is building this cool torch. Thanks again.

[@bryanwalsh9305]

+Jeff Allen Hey Jeff, I drilled a .016 hole in the plug. I'm not gonna lie, it was a pain in the butt. First off the bit was so small that I had bent about 3. how it worked for me was I put the bit all the way up in the chuck only letting an eigth exposed. Secondly, I didnt use oil on the final and successful one. The first hole I drilled in the first plug was .0625. But I found that it came out to be a very nice tiki torch flame but not good for foundry use. The smaller the hole, the more of a focused diamond flame tip... which is what you need and want. I hope this helps

[@Grizzydan]

I was thinking along the same lines.. someone with a small mill and a forge could make up his own parts and build one of these for next to nothing.

[@damiandellinger8675]

Jeff Allen a might welder tip works to

[@Biokemist-o3k]

Thanks you my friend. I am just getting the parts together to build one of these. I need a laminar torch for some scientific glass blowing and then casting aluminum. Thank you.

[@Take_And_Make]

This is brilliant! Too bad you're not making videos no more. Hope everything is fine!

[@NOBOX7]

nice build , also remove the sintered bronze slug to increase flow even more , its inside the insert the sticks down into the tank when you screw it together

[@rogerdodger5415]

Orifice size. He talks about it in another video called “Stove Construction pt3”. The size is .016”. That’s a micro drill size and seems like a delicate task. Look on Amazon. Good luck 🍀

[@traviscouch6607]

I've seen a lot of these projects on KZbin this is the very best video I've seen thank you for making this video

[@verticaltier]

Thanks for this. You explain each piece with detail.

[@rickybailey7123]

The most important pease was left out !!!

[@rickybailey7123]

If u do ever thing he did but not drill that hole no propane will come out !!!!

[@stevengonzales1062]

thanks for sending me this link!!!! It's exactly what I am looking for the upgrade my forge!!!! I'll send you a pic and/or video of the finished product. thanks Again!!!!

[@BrushCountryAg06]

Sir, I'm currently building my first propane forge and would really be interested in seeing some pics/vids of your build. Will

[@halunkarecord]

HA HA! I LOVE IT! TWO THUMBS UP CAUTION: Downward angle TIPS could heat the tank & blow UP if the wind is blowing the flame ON TO THE TANK

[@halunkarecord]

PROBABLY NOT THOUGH

[@Tripp77]

Your videos rock! I was scared of trying to make one for a foundry I'm making.. but I think I'll try it now since I've seen these! Thanks! I'm trying to use one of those grill propane tanks for my foundry. You should make a video if you ever get to it someday!

[@clkindred]

Powertripp Productions Thank you! Seems there is interest in a burner design video, because you are not the only one to ask.

[@trtrvdcv]

I'm only 7 mins in and i dont know if i can take anymore of the pausing on one step and just being in awe of the results like it's the second coming of Christ.

[@oby-1607]

You are obviously a thinker. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[@mknight6026]

I started customizing mine last night and whatever i made got way way to hot and whistled like a whistling pete and the flame is invisble up to 50% . Above 50% power its still hard to see. But in 3 seconds the burner was already too hot to touch and smoking. 30 secongs the stainless tip that is almost 1/4 thick walls was glowing red. After using it for a couple minutes it was getting unsafely hot and started welding the brass fittings to eachother.

[@mashhoodahmad96]

very impressive , like the details . well done .

[@spiralof5]

How big did you drill the orifice into the 1/8th plug? Awesome videos man. You explain everything really clearly.

[@chriswarner3904]

Just for future reference you don't need teflon tape or anything to seal the threads on brass it seals itself because it is soft enough.

[@billyburnette4338]

a .023 mig tip works perfect

[@papinbala]

all those things you bought, with the same amount of money you could get a butane torch weedwacker for 20 bucks that produces the same flame

[@ceeweedsl]

Really well done. Excellent communication. And a good tool build. BUT I missed the orifice sizing. What size drill?

[@robinstewart1932]

Bro I dig ya. Your kinda the man. I find your approaches and explanations very relaxed and easy to follow. For now just two questions for you man. 1) true the blow torch's are commonly found but I don't know about the one you use for the bigger rebuild. What kind is it cause sure as shit isn't your typical Home Depot bernzomatic.

[@clkindred]

It's a Lowe's Worthington torch, although the basic one from home depot will probably work too, as long as the valve is threaded the same way.

[@mikechirhart8840]

All i can say is... WOW! Your torch is very,very impressive to say the least! One would never think that it was homemade by the looks and operation of it. Your ingenuity and creativity are at levels that are way above the normal thinkers. You have a gift, man! Thanks for sharing!!!

[@robinstewart1932]

My iPads being funny. I'll hold off on the second question. Information is our weapon and people like you are beyond helpful. Cheers.

[@ShivaShambho77]

Buddy, I am loving your videos. Very Nice! I will now be trying a lot of these ideas myself. I thank you.

[@clkindred]

Thank you! Glad you liked it!

[@palomino13]

awesome idea.excellent naration.

[@clkindred]

Thanks!

[@perpetualjon]

Fantastic presentation! I know first hand how much work this must have been. BRAVO!!

[@attenurb44]

Excellent design. Thank you.

[@clkindred]

Thanks!

[@rustypanels1917]

great video, very well explained.

[@clkindred]

+Rusty Panels Thank you!

[@TheMonkeym24]

+clkindred I like the video could you send parts list to my email

[@oskarstack-michasiw2812]

Now I want this for my mini forge.

[@jeffreybaker8467]

Top job,i know it will use more gas but it will heat things a lot faster. So maybe it wont use more. All the best from Australia.

[@clkindred]

Thank you! Yep I can solder larger fittings and such, because this torch can keep up with the heat loss of a large copper or brass fitting, a smaller torch just could not cut it.

[@tannermarlow5162]

Dont kid yourself Jeffrey, even though it will heat faster, it will still use more lol

[@reconwatcher9475]

Nice video ! Quick suggestion-- use a fine pipe screen from a local tobacco shop. This will add a little more pressure and enhance the flame...........

[@charliemartinez1889]

Thats awesome thanks for sharing

[@toddvistain8179]

Greetings and where have you been all my life this is magnificent truly without a doubt Hank Hill would be so proud be safe.

[@edalger1382]

CLKindred: It appears that the outgoing thread on the BernzOMatic torch is not a pipe thread. There is no way that the LFA-712 ( 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP street El can be used on the valve body, (unless I'm missing something here!).

[@TheCthtoNicfLy]

nice tap handle

[@jakenbaked87]

Very impressive! nice job

[@markfryer9880]

Hi clkindred, Nice tutorial. Could you Upsize this torch even further? Also you maybe interested to learn that you can now get a braided hose with a LPG BBQ cylinder fitting on one end and a male fitting to suit those torches which use the disposable propane cylinders and they retail here in Melbourne for @ A$50. The hose is 1500 mm long or 5' for you imperial types. Bromic is the brand and it is to suit Bernzomatic propane suitable torches

[@clkindred]

+Mark Fryer I think you could make it bigger, just make the burner and tune the orifice size to match, I don't know if the relationship between burner diameter, length and orifice size is linear. I use just such a product to run the burner on a BBQ tank.

[@LutefiskSavage]

Without having to mess around with looking for an apple corer what is the interior diameter of that tubing so I can just go find that dimension from a metal supplier.

[@dchall8]

You don't have to look too hard. It's a Walmart item.

[@austinspencer6201]

Only question is what size is the hole did he drill in the plug

[@daruoshmonjezi9175]

This is very good...thanks

[@1958piwo]

My build of this torch is almost complete, I started it Sunday evening and worked on it a little Sunday and Monday evening. I bought EVERYTHING for this except the drainer screen and apple corer (still need them) from Home Depot. The CORRECT TORCH is the Worthington WT2201 basic torch. It is the exact one used in the video and broke down exactly as shown. It is available in many places by that part number $9.99 on ebay, $12.00 Home depot, $27 Amazon. Aside from tapping the threads through the 1/4 X 3/8 piece (THAT WAS A ROYAL PAIN), this project has been fun and this tutorial is exceptional. BTW. I have my orifice epoxy setting up (ACRAGLAS). I hope this epoxy is appropriate, if soft solder is OK so should it. if not I'll drill the hole back out and re-do it. Thanks clkindred!

[@1958piwo]

1958piwo CORRECTION: I gave the wrong part dimension: I SHOULD HAVE SAID I was running the tap through the 1/4 X 1/8 part. I said the wrong dimension in the post above. Sorry.

[@clkindred]

1958piwo You used a 1/4 x 1/8 npt reducer coupler? That will work, but makes the rest of the torch build a little different. Or did you find a 3/8 x 1/8 npt part? Anyway, tapping a deep pipe thread is a pain because of the taper, ounce you get in deep enough with the tap, it will be cutting threads the entire length of the hole, that's a lot of friction. A strait tap would cut easier because the cutting happens on the first couple threads on the tap, the rest of the tap just follows through.

[@1958piwo]

I used the same parts as you did on your build: searched for the same part numbers on the bags in your video. The tap I used was an NPT tap cause it was the only one I could find: was hard work but got it done. I hope to get my stainless steel tube on Tuesday and complete the build, that's all I'm lacking. Gonna know soon!

[@1958piwo]

1958piwo So my build is complete and I fired it up last night. I would say it is at about 90-95 percent effective. It does have a nice broad flame, it does "roar" and project nicely, but at the highest volume of gas a more lazy yellow flame is incorporated in the larger blue flame. The orifice size was .016 - .017 inch, so I think that's OK, but one question: what is the purpose of the aerator screen? The aerator screen that was used in the video turned out to be about 1/16th too small for the apple corer sleeve I found, and just slid back. I had some brass wire mesh I used for sifting black powder years ago, and I cut it from that piece. It is however a "finer" mesh so I'm not sure if the gas passing through finer mesh might have some effect? Otherwise, it's sweet!

[@clkindred]

Good to hear! Thanks for the update! As far as the full throttle fuel air problem, that sounds like there is too much restriction caused by the finer mesh screen. I found out a long time ago that there needs to be enough area for the fuel and air mix to exit the burner. If not, then it chokes up and burns with a soft feathery flame with some yellow depending on how bad the restriction is. At full gas flow, the sum of the gas and the air it has sucked in is too much to exit the burner, so it sucks in less air because the gas flow is "fixed" The purpose of the screen is to aid in mixing of the fuel and air, as well as prevent "flashbacks" at low gas pressure. The screen can be omitted as long as the burner tube is long enough to let the fuel and air mix before hitting the drain strainer, or flame anchor. But you may notice the burner "pop" when shutting it down, as the gas pressure falls below what is needed to keep the flame on the flame anchor and the flame shoots back towards the orifice.

[@daisy8luke]

I've been neding to make this torch for my forge for a while. So I got all the parts needed to do it just like you did. But when I disassembled the old torch assembly, mine was different in that 1) the orifice is not removable and 2) the end of the angled piece does not fit in the elbow as yours did. I ended up brazing the elbow in to the old valve body and making a couple of other adjustments. But it was a learning experience.

[@clkindred]

+daisy8luke THIS is what I'm talking about! You get an idea and you make it work despite setbacks. I almost did not post this video because I could imagine all the people wanting it laid out like a lego kit. I'm not hating on those people, but these videos are to show ideas and getting creative juices flowing.

[@daisy8luke]

clkindred Right. Rarely does anything work that smoothly just because you saw someone else do it. But the end result will be just as good or better if you just spread your wings and fly your own way. Still, your video was very helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction. I've since then ditched the strainer and mesh in the end of the stainless tub and just blow hot flame right in to my forge like a boss! So far, so good!!

[@johnluna1022]

Well done.

[@spiralof5]

Actually, anyone thinking of doing this project, don't if you are just looking some headaches. You will waste your money. None of the torches that are made these days have removable orifices. The Bernzomatic torches are also just too big. They must have made these proprietary. Just to in some way find the old ones and not lose 50 bucks in parts and car gas I will special order an old one if it can be found but it should be stated somewhere here that this has to be done (in an edited video) . In the end, you don't save THAT much money. You can find 500,000 btu weed killer for $40

[@BengtRosini13]

spiralof5 try pawn shops when looking for an older valve assembly. I've gotten a few from a local pawn shop by me. got lucky enough to find the old ones with the brass knob instead of black plastic.

[@experimenter19]

Plastic come a long way when you have to use a hacksaw to get it off a foreign tube

[@melmorris5913]

Insanely awesome

[@michael3573]

Awesome. Thank you!

[@codelicious6590]

Did I miss when you said what size you drilled the orifice? If not, well that's kinda a waste without knowing how large the main jet needs to be!

[@ShadowclawIV]

Make the exhaust length twice as long and it'll be like a laser sword.

[@hsushimooshi]

Hi, thanks for sharing this video. You mentioned a brass fitting called a "face bushing" but didn't say what size it was. I know the inside should be 3/8 npt but what about the outside threading?

[@clkindred]

oops! It's 1/2 NPT outside.

[@hsushimooshi]

cool thanks

[@Tripp77]

Also... Couldn't I just resize the orifice hole to a bigger size on the original plumbing? Or would that plumbing size not suffice to that modification?

[@clkindred]

Powertripp Productions You could do that as well, not a bad idea really.

[@squirlboy250]

great vid i think I'm going to make this thank you.

[@neila9251]

Can anyone tell me why the 1/8" jet can't be positioned further in or further out? Why tap right through?

[@chrisamo5406]

cool build

[@markadolphus5094]

Yeah it goes okay but I'm just wondering how long it's gonna take for the tube to heat up and expand just enough for that sink strainer to pop out and and randomly burn the shit out of something like maybe your pants and leg, bounce into your shoe or the nice floor in the kitchen or bathroom maybe even at somebody else's house 😂

[@mamob9335]

I live in Dk and its going to be impossible for me to get my hands on all these :( I know what you are thinking, Offcourse you can find everything if you try. But you got to live here to understand what I mean.... But we have the Internet thou. Thank you for a lovely Video

[@lanehill6123]

Very nice

[@Odenix75]

Genius!!! Thank you

[@GEK69NY]

Hello. Any idea how swirl flame might be done in your made? Thx in advance!

[@mikekehler3078]

Can this burner be used if your propane source is a 20lb tank and an appliance hose?

[@Rob337_aka_CancelProof]

Excellent video but I have one question when you press the screen and strainer into the tube how do you keep it secure in place without it coming back out or going down in further?

[@Demymaker]

Good job. Is there a way to calculate the diameter (or area) of the ventilation holes based on the size of the nozzle / torch?

[@BrushCountryAg06]

Sir, the logic you demonstrate throughout all of your videos is very impressive and commendable. QUESTION: How do you arrive at the most efficiently burning design with respect to the "DIFFUSOR" (sink parts)? Is there a "golden ratio" that exists that I'm not aware of? My ignorance prevents me from understanding what exactly is achieved by diffusing the flame WITHIN THE TUBE before it exits the end. (If my my question has already been addressed, please forgive me for not having the time to read all of the comments.)

[@clkindred]

+TexasLONGRIFLE First I'll go over what the sink parts do. The drain strainer with the large holes in it, makes the "flame anchor" when placed into the fuel/air stream it creates low pressure zone just past it. Think of water in a river flowing around a bridge support, as the water goes around and past the support it creates eddy currents on the downstream side. This is needed to anchor the flame or it will be pushed outside the burner and blow itself out. The screen is just to prevent the flame from flashing back towards the orifice at low gas pressure, it's kind of complicated how a screen blocks passage of a flame, but it has a lot to do with sucking the heat out of the flame. As for a golden ratio, I'm not sure. For the flame anchor to work it seems to need about a 20-30% ratio of web (stuff in between the holes) to 80-70% holes. As far as the size of the holes, they all seem to work, but I noticed the larger the holes, the louder the burner.

[@nsa2182]

Very impressed! great job! How do I buy a few?

[@forloop7713]

What's the purpose of the mesh

[@brianhelsley7657]

Greg I just bought the 50lbs due to the size of my big foundry plus i am building a small one for fast projects but Thank you

[@dylmoon1130]

clkindred, I am very impressed w/your work....thorough and ingenuitive. Just one question on the above "build along"....unless I missed it, I didn't notice you state what size hole you drilled for your orifice in your jet. If I just wasn't listening I apologize, but otherwise I am very interested in attempting to replicate your creation. Thanks in advance. Jon PS...this is my son's youtube account...hence the nom de plume.

[@clkindred]

Nope, you did not miss it I just forgot to put that in. The hole is 0.016" thanks for the comment!

[@RickBrumfield]

clkindred I agree with Dill Pickle, your videos are really well done. My only complaint is that you do not do a materials list in the about section. Where you got it would be great, too. I'm about 3/4 through a coffee can forge build & am now working on this & a list of brass fittings would be scrumtrulesent. Thanks for vids!

[@mijit.859]

wow ! Well made and done ! How can I get a much longer flame thrown from a standard gas cylinder blow torch ?? I would have to modify the nozzles etc 🤔

[@donaldhundevadt3009]

How big is the hole you drilled in the new Orpheus ?

[@IamJiva]

your first torch(little both) gave flame needle(long on the axis), and big one torch(you work) giving wide="short", cone without focuss point, so it will not melt piece of iron(little iron paper clip - enough for test temperature maximum, and it is possible record, at least you will get like а hair follicle ball on the end, afted 5-10min of searching right hot point of flame(iron must be like airplane in flow, along on the axis, and also some time you can find area on the fringe("hat" edge flame cone), to gen needle you need to take away drain strainer part(last grid with 7 big hols) and put inside flange_nut(look at wiki pedia), wide side must lay on your 15/16 grid, and you will see hexagon, and little(1-2mm wide) сircular slot along the edges, My mesh is a little wide, and I wrapped the protruding edges toward me, pressing the mesh inside this nut like a piston, pressing on the hexagon

[@Shantaal]

Muy buen quemador. Soy de España y no entiendo muy bien el inglés, ¿serías tan amable de hacerme llegar la lista de materiales para hacer el quemador? Muchisimas gracias por tu tiempo y por la información, a mi me es muy útil.

[@pauldrum7431]

man your a legend very cool

[@billgwilliam1263]

The only thing that puzzles me is the gauze, just how does it improve gas flow / heat output?

[@johnsanchez8029]

I think it might have something to do with the fact that the mesh is slightly obstructing gas flow and allowing a more thorough combustion as opposed to rushing through un-combusted. OR maybe when the mesh heats up it facilitates the combustion reaction more efficiently.

[@breezeli2524]

If you had inserted some fabric or foil between your items and the jaws, there would be no more dents on the elbow and valve.

[@janettelanuiki]

Bushing reducer/increaser/ a “CPLG RED /INCR”?

[@NMranchhand]

Good video. Very entertaining. What did you have to go through by way of experimentation to get the air hole number and sizes, the orifice size and the relationships between them (and the end of the tip) to get a neutral flame of acceptable shape? I would have liked to see how you stalked that problem. 👍

[@albeniasantos5693]

Muito bom Parabéns nota 10 Obrigado

[@88kroy]

Could i get a parts list for this please.

[@michaelprovenzano1888]

Can you PLEASE send me a parts list and what size is the Face bushing??

[@mysterypotatocat]

I will go to menards or home depot to get some tools to make this awesome mega blowtorch.

[@patrickbryanthawley]

The orifice hole looks like maybe 3/64” or a #60 wire bit maybe?

[@patrickbryanthawley]

Oop, looks like it’s actually 0.016”, aka a #78 wire bit. Definitely a specialty item, and you may need an extra-fine drill chuck (like a Jacobs #0) to use it.

[@forrestbiller8326]

How much would u charge me to have building one for me

[@elvenb1353]

I echo all the thanks for this video and look forward to building the forge. How did determine the size of the orifice that was needed?

[@clkindred]

In an earlier project I made a propane camp stove and through a few months of experimenting found that the orifice needed to be as small as I could make it, any bigger than .016" is too big for a burner this size. .016 was the smallest drill bit I could get. This also means the burner can't be any smaller than this, because that would require a smaller orifice. The orifice size, burner tube diameter, burner tube length, primary combustion air holes, and burner head are all locked in a system that needs to be in balance. If one thing is changed, there must be changes made to the other elements as well.

[@elvenb1353]

clkindred Thanks for the quick response. It is the engineering calculations of the balanced system that I was that I was trying to find. Can you point me to a source that has the formulae or at least discusses the relationships of the various parameters?

[@clkindred]

There is no such information I could find myself, that is why the camp stove took so long to make. I found page after page of information on burners that have already been designed, but nothing on how to design your own. Detailes like orifice size and such were not published because they assume a technitian is just trying to troubleshoot the burner, not make changes or make one.

[@elvenb1353]

clkindred Thanks. If I do find anything on the calculations, I'll send it to you.

[@mckenziekeith7434]

+elven b You may already know this, but there is such a thing as a "gas orifice drill chart." If you know your BTU output, you can look up the orifice size for propane or natural gas. You can also use this to convert appliances from propane to natural gas and vice-verse. A 0.016" orifice is a number 78 drill bit. That would be around 1800 BTU's. www.johnstone-westmichigan.com/techcenter/orficetable.pdf

[@heathen184]

This thing is, awesome. gives me ideas for a wok burner. if you have any ideas for a good wok burner let me know. ( I REALLY like the door knob burner)

[@clkindred]

haggard184 Most wok burners I have seen use multiple small burners (like 20 small blowtorch sized burners) or a large "banjo" style burner. I think three or four door knob burners plumbed together would be a good middle ground between the two designs.

[@justascorpio33]

Very impressed. How much? I need 4 of them.

[@ernestvenn8291]

I've got an interesting question for you can this type of torch be used for lamp work?

[@halunkarecord]

for boro & soft its definitely hot enough 1980 °C 3596 °F

[@michealmotorcycle3650]

Just propane or is it ok for Mapp gas ?

[@haziriamin]

Greate video.. love to see more of this kind of projects.. :)

[@robs9574]

Nice build, is this new improved torch the one I'd need to use in your furnace? Would be using to smelt gold and silver.

[@clkindred]

Yes, this is the burner I use in my trashcan forge.

[@tylercook2664]

Can we please get a parts list? I really want to make this

[@ProfMarijawizard]

If you sell these I'll buy 2

[@robertcece6972]

+ProfMarijawizard They'd have to cost around $100 each if you actually tried building one yourself. It cost me $50 for all brass parts not including the stainless steel burner which I used a small butane refill tank for (you can also use narrow air freshener cans but they might need to be cut, reformed and tack welded). Then the labor... you gotta drill the air holes, drill the orfice which is the hardest part. Notice he doesn't show that part in either of his 2 vids cause working with a #78 bit is a nightmare. Using a drill press could take 2-3 hours just to drill a .016 hole that deep. I broke tons of bits then figured out if you "grindweld" a .025MIG head by cutting it in half and grinding it down a bit... the very tip melts together at low heat as it grinds. So the hole closes but the top metal get's softer (it's more a pressure weld then a heat weld). Still, I had to use a #74 bit just to get through that bit of metal. #75 and up all bent too much with a regular hand drill. Just by breathing in and out the bits were snapping off. Oh, then there's the air mixer and cone shaper. I couldn't find the strainer he used so I had to cut that from the bottom of a coffee can, grind it down then cut the holes. Took about 1 hour just to do that with my dremel. My point is, even if he worked in a machinist shop the least he could charge is $80-$100 each. But if there was high demand... like if there were 100 people lined up to buy these then modifications could be made as all people really want is that cool chrome looking burner. So I'll tell you what, if your comment gets 97 more upvotes which it won't I'll sell them myself. ;-)

[@ProfMarijawizard]

+Robert Cece You could just sell me yours!! I'd pay about $200 plus shipping?

[@huckstirred7112]

you dont have to fight with that tiny drill bit ! use the original orifice and use a tip drill for an oxyacetylene torch to make it ever so slightly bigger

[@huckstirred7112]

i honestly believe that the size of the orifice is just fine as it is . it is the stainless steel tube with the screen and drain strainer . That is what makes this burner work the way it does. In tig welding it is called a gas lens . I am certain that orifice is big enough as it is if it isnt . 1 tiny tip drill at a time " it would only take a second to go as big as you want"

[@h-dblues4217]

what is the drill size used for the plug?

[@johnnycontreras571]

Well done sir...like details:)

[@misterseven5525]

Could I go straight to 3/8 to 1/8. Or do I need the length of the tube and fittings for gas expansion?

[@CJM17627]

Thank you so much the mystery was solved. Even though the reducer hole measures the 3/8 it takes the 1/8 pipe threading tap with a 27 TPI. The funniest thing is I went to Home Depot for a 1/8 square stopper ( with no shoulder) n it didn't fit after tapping it out, then I went to a plumbing supply store n bought another 1/8 square stopper n it fit perfectly. The only other question I have is the orifice u said a .016 hole, I have a 1/64 bit which is .01562 so do you mean get a 1/64 bit?

[@clkindred]

no, the micro drill bits I have are measured in thousanths of an inch. .016 is exactly what it is. A bit measuring .015 or so will be fine.

[@justyb9830]

very helpful thank you

[@clkindred]

+justin bowers Thanks for watching!

[@KnifeBuilderDallas]

I love the blow torch design! Would you be willing to build one for me? Let me know your thoughts😊.

[@IamJiva]

now i can understand some basical princyples: The end(start really) of little ejector tube has a jet(wondering about regulated one, like diaphragm of photo camera) in the tube of an ejector of small diameter, say with a tunnel of 5mm diameter, which I call the starting diameter of the channel With two or 3,4,6,8 lateral holes ,. Which I call the "nostrils", they should have a shutter for closing, a section of a tube of larger diameter, with a longitudinal cut, like a spring hugging and closing nostrils, if you push it like a curtain over the windows, partially or completely, it's important because I refill the can sometimes Diethyl ether (medical), which can work as a gas after heating the balloon with hot water from a water pipe, or isopropyl alcohol or petroleum ether (which require an electric hot plate> 100С

[@themattster5388]

I just got a blowtorch. but instead of a 7/32 nut with a tiny hole it looked as if the manufaturer just milled a piece of brass into a bent pipe. Its all one piece. Ideas? there is not much thread otherwise I would just drill it out. What brand do you use?

[@clkindred]

Are you talking about the factory orifice? I don't reuse that piece so it should not matter how they made that particular part. Now if you are talking about the bent brass tube being a solid part with the blowtorch valve, then that might be a problem. I use "Worthington" torches. But the other popular brand "Berzomatic or whatever" has the same construction.

[@themattster5388]

clkindred Kind of. Instead of that small bolt you show, the tube and orifice are all one piece. I have not tried to separate them out yet since I was jammed up at taking the orifice out. However, I found that my local Home Depot has some older style Burnzomatic ones that DO have the tiny orifice nut. I can clearly see it. Thanks a bunch.

[@spiralof5]

clkindred No it doesn't. They are making them as all solid brass pieces now.

[@michaelrussell3741]

How does one contact you to build them one

[@TheLagwagon6040]

just attempted this build and it was an utter failure LOL. I could not for the life of me, get the 1/8' NPT square plug to thread into the 1/8" to 1/4" NPT bushing. I tapped it all the way through and it still wouldn't go......:-(

[@clkindred]

+TheLagwagon6040 I suppose I could post an update video with different construction methods, the plug was how I do it now, but it was more because it made research easier being kind of modular.

[@crazy4chickens]

that specific apple coring tool is no longer available is there a different tube I can use or the dimensions on that one