Building a Blower (DIY dust collector part 2)

[@BillPentz]

Hi this is Bill Pentz. Most of your cyclone and blower are evolved from my designs that I have been refining since 1994. You have done a pretty good job, but there are a few things that you need to consider for safety and ability of people with lesser metal and woodworking skills to be able to build your units. 1) the 1/4" plate is heavy but is the right stuff to use for your impeller base. 1/8" plate will warp all over unless you have a very fine welder and good heat sink. 2) Your noise levels at over 100 dB were not unexpected but can be greatly reduced with a few minor changes. a) You really do need to be using backward inclined blades. If you divide your blower into six equal pie shaped wedges, then you should offset your blades 2.5" from those division lines to create backward inclined blades. Backward inclined and your already backward curved blades make a huge difference in blower noise. b) You also need to sharpen your blower gore point instead of a gradual curved bend and add a second matching gore point on the inside outer portion of your blower to create a noise canceling effect. Sharpening gives you better performance and a level of noise that can be canceled. c) Also, I chose to weld on both sides of my impeller blades. If you just weld on one side, it should be the blade backs to reduce turbulence to also help with noise. 3) Your cyclone and mine are identical except I continue the cylinder up instead of just closing off with the air ramp. Many are poorly copying my design both ways now. The advantage of coming up is you save having to add a duct piece on the front of your blower and can just make a 9" diameter hole. You need that same sized duct coming out of your cyclone if you want optimum separation and airflow for an 18" diameter cyclone. 4) I found bolting the motor directly to the Baltic Birch plywood and using Loc-tite holds up for a while, but eventually vibrations cause the Baltic Birch to fail. I shifted over to using a steel motor mounting plate that I hold in place similar to how you hold your blower intake duct. 5) I found having my blower base and blades laser cut costs little and greatly minimized balancing. Also, I made my base have a tight fit to the compression bushing arbor which reduced runout and made for a smoother less wobbly impeller. 6) I also tried mounting the metal blower sides to the Baltic Birch. Turns out they will eventually develop openings from being banged hard by debris when you forget to empty your collection bin. A better technique is to make the blower larger in diameter, securing with carriage bolts outside of the metal which rests in 1/8" deep grooves in the Baltic Birch. 7) You can buy ducting flanges in the diameter you want that have a flared base and foam insulation making it far easier to install than the complex hole. 8) Many will want to make their cyclone and blower parts from galvanized steel. Galvanized reacts with silicone to break down and lose its seal. You might instead want to use a good gutter sealant. 9) you can take your identical sized blower vanes and move them out on the same sized base to create a larger overhang and 16" total diameter impeller. I found with these 4" tall blades, that is the ideal size to use your motor full capacity without risking burnout from moving too much air. 10) Please don't ever turn on a newly made impeller that is not encaged in a blower housing. One of my buddies started making impellers for me and he had bad welds. A blade broke loose and destroyed the blower housing plus the whole rest of the impeller before I could kill power! Bill Pentz billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/blower.php

[@E_L12]

@BillPentz What exactly do you mean by: 'a second matching gore point on the inside outer portion of your blower' ?

[@luisbarreto7019]

😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

[@BillPentz]

@@E_L12 If you look at the blower housing the outlet has one side that merges into the decreasing blower spiral. On the other side there is a sharp 90+ degree bend. That sharp bend is known by many as the gore point. Much of the blower noise is created when the exiting air hits this sharp bend. If you took a dowel nearly as tall as the outlet sides, cut the dowel in half lengthwise making a half cylinder, and mounted that on a stick where you could slide it in and out on the smooth side of the outlet, you would find a spot where the noise it makes comes close to canceling the noise from the gore point. Between changing the blade angles and installing a second artificial gore point you should cut overall noise to as low as one quarter as much. Gluing neoprene to the blower sides, top and bottom will help even more. If you use insulated ducting for your outlet that will quiet the noise even more. Would you send me an email? [e-mail]

[@MetalAsFork]

I'm just 13 mins in, and don't really do any work like this, but it's really impressive how resourceful and creative you are with repurposing shop items. Using the drill press stand as a mandrel, or the drill bit as a router guide, testing the screws in the plywood... It's not so much about the specific tips, or how to build this exact item, but the philosophy of being adaptable in completing a task. Fun to watch.

[@RamsesTorresLifevantageIndDist]

Beautiful design. Glad to see you creating again. For welding thin metal try series of spot welds, cooling with shop air between passes, instead of continuous bead. Very thin gap will allow good penetration. Loved the rabbet detail so sheet metal would be flush and help alignment.

[@TobiasKornmayer]

Jeremy, it's always a joy following you along doing the right things the right way. Keep your head up buddy, looking forward to seeing it all come together. I also noted your awesome beltgrinder design was copied a fricking lot, take that as a compliment ;)

[@williamzanghettijr5862]

Awesome work young man! Cheers, William

[@PoignantPirate]

If you're really concerned about those bolts staying in place, i would consider adding lock wire. It's not a lot of extra effort, but it's a lot of extra insurance.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

I seriously considered it! But I was concerned about the wire sagging, touching the impeller, and throwing a spark. (That’s also the concern of the bolts come loose. Nothing will fall apart right away, but it could start a fire in the filters)

[@bushratbeachbum]

Just threadlock them. Use the red one. It's easy enough to get them out again with a little bit of heat

[@bielanski2493]

​@@Jer_Schmidt There's still tab washers to consider if the problem presents.

[@zskk]

@@Jer_Schmidt man, nordlocks!

[@582tird]

Hey Jer, this is excellent. Inspires me, I’ve never been satisfied with my current “cheap” setup. I’m considering this for my 2022 winter project. Let the research begin. 👍

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Be warned, it’s a LOT of work. But if the project seems fun to you, then it’s probably worth it.

[@MariusHornberger]

Great build. No doubt, a better blower than my one. I like the idea of bolting the housing to the motor and having the opening for installing the impeller on the bottom. Makes more sense now that I think about it. Do you want to install an inlet screen to protect the blower from large pieces?

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Thanks! I thought the bottom opening for especially made sense since I’ll be connecting the cyclone with a big piece of flex hose. I actually completely forgot about putting a screen in it, I was going to do that. Might add it yet.

[@SudburyDave]

Hopefully as the blower is upstream of the cyclone there should not be any large pieces reaching it

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

@@Jer_Schmidt 1/4" Hardware cloth fencing is good, provides a stiff backer.

[@onjofilms]

I have a Delta 50-179 that has a plastic impeller that all the wood travels through. It has lasted 32 years.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

@@onjofilms Whoa I would not have expected that. 🤯 Good to know!

[@raulricardolopezrivera1544]

Un trabajo con mucha tecnica felicitaciones

[@Fabio_Fernando]

that foam material is possibly ethylene-vinyl acetate

[@Exodus5K]

Hi Jeremy, out of curiosity what are your motivations for building a dust collector as opposed to purchasing one off the shelf? Is it a matter of cost, quality, the challenge of the build, or some other reason?

[@Jer_Schmidt]

So there are only two on the market that are suitable for this shop (Clearvue & Oneida). Both are about $4k. I figured I could build one that’s slightly better optimized for my needs, and save about $2k. I would not recommend it tho…this has been a ridiculous amount of work and I would have been way better off buying one.

[@truckguy6666]

@@Jer_Schmidt yeah but buying one would have been far less entertaining for us! Post some plans when you get everything sorted and I'm sure you'll sell quite a few and make it "worth your while"...

[@VivoBlue-f1o]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@Muffinrando]

I know your struggles on the back side, it’s something I go through. glad to see you making progress and getting another build up. Take your time we will wait .

[@davidelliott5843]

20 years ago, a chiropractor got me through an L5-S1 disc prolapse. He said I was so close to emergency surgery that he expected to be calling ambulance when I arrived. It was never needed. Results were was so impressive that I did the training. That all said, sacro-iliac joint pain is often diagnosed as disc or sciatic. Chiro is very good with SI joints. Getting them balanced takes load off the discs and facets. Win win.

[@matthewmoilanen787]

​@@davidelliott5843Man I wish I had a Dr like that willing to operate with just one ruptured disc. I just had my second surgery to take care of the second disc replacement and L3-5 fused to the already fused L1-2. In addition they removed a 10 mm cist from my spinal cord only to find an SI joint tear. Unfortunately no form of therapy or rehab had any effect so it required fusion as well. It's a miserable thing to go through and I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy.

[@benjaminreinhardt259]

Awesome work. As far as butt welding sheet metal - you want to stack tacks. Tack every 2", then come back and put a tack on each tack. That will move your heat around and minimize distortion. Also prevents blowing holes in the the metal. Other than that, awesome work buddy. Leagues ahead of me.

[@JBLewis]

Ron Covell just posted a video the other day butt welding strips of metal (copper) and finishing them to the point that the welds all but disappear.

[@josuelservin]

I love the the squiggly seal, efficient and good looking!

[@TheHermeynator]

Always amazed at the carefulness and attention to detail you put in a project. Awesome video once again!

[@ZEUS-eg8jw]

Lol ...!! 'Daddy' Matthias wandel will be proud ... ;))

[@Jack-yl7cc]

Normal household Silicone sealer is a bit too soft to stand up to basically being "Sandblasted" for very long but, on the flip side I am sure the same joints would eventually get packed with saw dust anyway so it only has to last long enough for that to happen. For future (re)builds I would recommend some good quality automotive seam sealer like "SEM 29372 Gray Seam Sealer". The nice bonus part about the SEM tubes is that the nozzles screw on, which makes unclogging them or even replacing them entirely so much easier. The downside to SEM sealant is that its too good at being impermeable so it takes some specialized paint to get it to stick to it.

[@tonysamples840]

GLAD TO SEE YOU BACK TO BUILDING THINGS. I'V ALWAYS ENJOYED SEEING WHAT YOU COME UP WITH NEXT. KEEP IT UP.

[@dkbuilds]

Awesome to see you back Jer, and also awesome to see some build videos being successful on KZbin. The algorithm really beats them down these days. Keep up the awesome work, you're quickly turning into the next Matthias.

[@Painless61]

Can‘t wait to see the last video … it‘s always a joy to see you working … I like the way you find solutions for the process and the result is outstanding. Thx for sharing

[@Donorcyclist]

Another build that is outstandingly detailed, well thought out, and an excellent example of fine craftsmanship! Great job, Jeremy!

[@ianvicedomini2648]

Fantastic build dude. A really professional look about it. I am so glad to see you back on here mate it was so long since you made a video prior to these. Great video buddy 😉👍🏻👍🏻

[@vintyprod]

So beautifully designed and executed. that thing’s a piece of art

[@paulodeoliveira3368]

Great work! But I think I saw somewhere that impellers should be an odd number because of resonance or something..

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Yeah, I’ve heard that too, but I know the Clearvue has 6 blades so it must be ok. I can’t find much info about this and I would like to understand the physics.

[@rubensalazar5651]

So good to have you back mate! Was super happy to see the jer notification

[@marcvanherck]

As usual magnificent engineering and execution

[@tcarney57]

Nice work, as usual. I think it's cool you're using only clear finishes for both the wood and the steel.

[@linkinprk1981]

1 min after posting... need to think of something clever to post... crap... writers block

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

Jigsawing 1/4" plate.... as a laser operator it makes my heart hurt a little to watch anyone work that hard.

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

Your skill level and attention to detail is phenomenal. I’m looking forward to seeing the fun part when you put it all together.

[@stefcampagna2321]

Rocket science :-) Amazing !!! Everything looks easy ... but it's not. The detail is not (never) an option with you !!! Bravo !!!

[@AndreLuiz-gk1mf]

My first job in Brazil was to make these snail exhaust fans and air recirculators for gas ovens for curing powder paint.

[@haroldchoate7497]

I’ve missed you on KZbin. It’s great to see you back. I hope to see more of your work as time goes by. Thanks for some interesting, educational videos.

[@woodsprout]

I like your thinking on the wiggly bits, and love when what looks like decoration is actually functional industrial design.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Beautiful build! For future reference, sanding the wobble out of the 1/4" rotor plate is not as hard as one may think. I had a heavy disk sander platen that had .030 wobble, and didn't want to risk squaring up the hub. So I set up a drill-mounted sanding disk and sanded a .010-.015 off both sides. I ended up with

[@SuperGrover]

You should have warned us when you aimed the fan at the camera. I wasn't wearing protective glasses!! :D Great work as always.

[@PERSONALEEMG]

Dude, thanks for showing us your process. Have a nice day.

[@СашаБортнюк]

I'm from Ukraine, I've been watching your work for a long time, I want to thank you for the accuracy, honest attitude to work, I'm a teacher of labor, wood, metal, I'm older than you, but you teach me, THANK YOU!!!! SORRY FOR MY BAD ENGLISH.

[@ВасильПіддубний-ь5ц]

вітаю🇺🇦

[@BenjaminHCrump]

So glad to see you back - great build as always.

[@levi95360]

glad your back been missing ya

[@awesomearizona-dino]

Yes, the fine kreg screws are excellent for Not splitting. Great work Jer, as usual. Please send rain !!

[@mr.ranyhomemade2466]

I know you are always when you make things really pretty and the best quality and perfect work, that I would like your job

[@wastespark1]

I really love that you are back posting more regularly, I have been watching for years and still drop everything when I see a new video from you! Thanks you for making such great videos

[@aticuss]

Magnificent.

[@kancelas]

Glad to see you posting videos again. Welcome back

[@thebrokenbone]

hi the blue loctite will help but the plywood isn´t providing enough strength to stretch the bolts to proper torque, with time and vibration the plywood will compress and you lose all the tension, maybe a sleeve would help. don´t worry much about lock washers unless they are the ones you bend them over the bolt or nut, just plain hardened ones work better for proper torque. great build, hope to see it finished i´m about to start my own. thanks for sharing

[@rubensalazar5651]

Holy shit didn't see there was a part 1! I'm behind!!

[@eddie79162]

20s in and its already great 👊

[@boutellejb]

Each little section is a project of perfection in itself - and then you put them all together into a serious tool! Very impressive work!

[@tonyhowe3676]

Excellent work!!! As having been a torque wrench specialist.......you have to hold the torque wrench by the handle.....otherwise you are not achieving the appropriate torque that was set on the torque wrench.

[@justavian]

I don't think i have the wherewithal to build something like this myself - i bought a dust deputy xl and a harbor freight motor / impeller. It's not great, but it mostly works. Still - thanks for sharing this. Very cool.

[@doubledarefan]

21:08 Now all it needs is a heating element, and you would have a hair dryer with authority.

[@EyeOnTheTV]

This is fucking awesome. Beautiful work! Kind of interested in what the CFM that thing puts out and whether or not you designed it to hit a specific target in that regard. Cheers

[@Jer_Schmidt]

I’m targeting 1000 CFM when it’s all connected up and pulling thru ductwork. I didn’t even bother to measure how much the blower moves on its own since that’s not really relevant.

[@_shlee73_msk15]

And in the upper part of the cyclone, are you twisting the air into a spiral? Then, on the centrifugal fan, also make a couple of turns around the snail. This is a living example when he already knows how to look at the Internet, but he still does not think.

[@aserta]

If you feel like you need to double down on the motor screws, you could make a thin piece of metal with the hex holes for the bolt heads. It can be something like half a mm sheet, just enough to keep the bolts stuck in place. I've done it in the past where loctite couldn't be used.

[@stephenwgreen78]

Glad to see you back. 👍. Your videos always provide inspiration and demonstrate problem solving I can apply on other projects even if I'm not building the same things. Thanks for all you do

[@darkosimic86]

I am just sorry I cannot give two likes to this video! Excellent work!

[@caigner]

I said it once and I say it again: Continue like this and one day you'll score a job at NASA, building spacecrafts. Absolutely brilliant work.

[@jeffallen3382]

NASA has you grind off any mill scale when welding...

[@bushratbeachbum]

@@jeffallen3382 i doubt they grind it off by hand. Or do you weld for nasa?

[@jeffallen3382]

@@bushratbeachbum it doesn't matter what they use... They don't weld over mill scale! My old buddy use to weld for NASA. Also doesn't matter who you weld for. You weld over mill scale and you will fail any kind of certification testing. Doesn't matter if you're a pipe welder or work for NASA.

[@caigner]

@@jeffallen3382 Jer is young. He will improve over time. No master was born as such. 5% talent and 95% continues training.

[@jeffallen3382]

@@caigner LOL

[@arcrad]

This is such a clean build. Very well done. 👏 I love the look of the wiggly sections. Form from function at its finest!

[@health_secrets_of_moringa]

Appreciate you and love ❤❤❤

[@aceme9514]

I'm a week late, but I'm so excited to see another video by you! ♥

[@nicholasthon973]

If you had not put the blades in exact positioning the noise produced would be less due to reduced harmonics.

[@samz8023]

👍. If you space the blades (fins) unevenly and balance it after, it would seem a lot quieter.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Does this work if I use an even number and place them straight across from each other? So each pair would be straight across from each other, but the pairs would not be 60° offset? I’m curious to learn about the physics of this, if you have any resources! Thanks!

[@JangoBunBun]

@@Jer_Schmidt Hypothetically it would be balanced, so long as each pair of fins is exactly 180 degrees away from it's twin you'll be balanced regardless of the spacing between pairs.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Balanced, yes, but would I get the desired benefit of lower noise?

[@JangoBunBun]

@@Jer_Schmidt If the noise if coming from imbalance, yes. Otherwise you won't see much difference

[@samz8023]

Uneven spacing will get rid of the harmonics. (A siren type of noise). Breaking up the harmonics will improve the perceived quality of the noise. (More spread out frequencies) and the overall noise. This is because the blade pass by is usually the dominant tone. Good tire also have treads unevenly spaced, so are good quiet design fans

[@VitaliySunny]

Impressive!

[@notasbignow1]

Amazing as usual Jer absolutely great work loving your new workshop

[@HaasGrotesk]

That's a damn jet engine! I'd highly advise to put some type of mesh or something on to the inlet. If anything gets sucked into that thing it's going to be a loud boom! Otherwise, awesome!

[@jerrystark3587]

I always enjoy watching you work. Interesting, informative, and impressive. Thanks!

[@rebbel67]

I get the same joyous feeling watching you(r videos) as I get watching Lionel Messi playing soccer! For those not in the knowing; one of the best players ever to walk the pitch.

[@jimsjacob]

I’ll say it again. Totally amazed with your problem solving/solutions to your build process. Truly impressive!

[@surfbyrd1]

i really enjoyed watching your thinking process during this project. You're a wonderfully talented and kind man. Thank you!

[@BIGWIGGLE223]

Side note about lock washers........ They're junk. Unless you buy the ones that mate together that have very specific requirements to get the right ones. The best thing to use is thread locker. Lock washers literally don't do anything to prevent bolts or nuts from backing off. I've been tossing them for years hoping to make a dent in the stockpile of the world. Lol! Blowers looking mighty fine though!! Keep up the good work!!

[@wafflebeaver]

That was oddly interesting to watch…

[@zendesigner]

great use of maths and geometry designing your parts. you're smart in finding solutions

[@millsbrian55]

Amazing build quality! So glad to have you back making content.

[@465maltbie]

Thanks for sharing, I dont need a grinder like you made but if I did I would make it to your drawings. Charles

[@PablitoLamberti]

You are an absolute genius!!!! Love your content! Glad you are back

[@marcmmclellan]

You need to work in an aerospace shop!

[@brainfornothing]

Congratulations ! Very good work ! That "gasket" rubber looks like EVA foam or maybe neoprene, but, of course, I can be very wrong. Thanks for sharing !

[@jon1913]

I think I have that same cardboard infeed table you used for your drill press at 12:35 . Very reasonably priced. ;P

[@edgarblzteste7334]

Congratulation on the project. Your videos are more than intretedment, they are a source of inspiration. Thanks.

[@jes6628]

Daaaaang you’ve been working out! looking good buddy!!

[@MrVisioo]

You seem a lot happier now. I like your new content even more then I liked the old.

[@johnthebob1]

that blows....... seriuously though love it. been waiting for this as I have a 5 HP setup almost identical anmd the welding skills. I think I will have to attempt this.

[@sapelesteve]

Fantastic build Jeremy! Your attention to detail and execution is amazing! Looking forward to Part 3 of this build. Be well..... 👍👍

[@cassiusesbien]

this is amazing! super useful video!!!

[@Joe___R]

I would have went with a squirrel cage fan design but yours should work well. It would be nice to get the air speed it produces.

[@robnhannon]

“We don’t know what 3phase is in the US” gave me a good chuckle. Good seeing you on camera again.

[@tomim7187]

Jer, it's really coming together! Heavy metal is just all right with me! 👍👍

[@carycleland9506]

Sweet grinder, I have one just like it:) funny story, I sold the welding table that I have my grinder in. One of the people responded to my ad, “hey is that a Jeremy Schmidt grinder?!”

[@TxStang]

you could get a motor soft start to decrease the start amps but they are expensive , i would think that 1/4" back plate is too much mass for the motor startup , you could drill a bunch of countersinks all around it and rebalance it to reduce the mass or if you have a local machine shop have them put it on a lath and surface it down to 1/8" which would be more than enough .

[@superordinate]

That 0.25" plate is definitely overkill. Would've been better to go with maybe 14GA or 12GA instead. But if it works, it works!

[@Kopsu87]

Really cool build. Can't wait for the next one. 5/5

[@alans1816]

Your cyclone and blower look like they will last forever and work extremely well. They far outclass the ones I made. You can take as much time as you like and I will always be happy to see a new video from you. This was not a long wait.

[@lynngibbs6670]

Love it. Always enjoy your work. Can't wait to see the rest of the build.

[@UliTroyo]

I missed the previous video! I guess I'll go rectify that.

[@thechumpsbeendumped.7797]

Excellent progress. I’m so looking forward to the next instalment.

[@Kevin-gx8lc]

Great work Jezza! Greetings from Southport, UK.

[@TZerot0]

Great vid bud! Keep it up

[@69dblcab]

Great work Jer. Nice to see you and your videos. You are a brilliant person.

[@rickspencer7998]

Nicely done, Jer. Glad you're back!