Building a CNC Mill/Router - Part 3

[@Waschlappen_08bb]

He is not dead!

[@Very_Grumpy_Cat]

This is Tim 2. Tim 1 is dead

[@TweakRacer]

Not a Boeing whistleblower

[@aL3891_]

Was worried it fell on him or something

[@RossBobby]

That’s how I feel every time Nile Red posts a video too, lol.

[@vysajbong4]

Hell yea, I wait for this video!

[@ipadize]

those spacers are gonna get you later with rigidity issues. Its better to have blocks with holes than little standoffs.

[@TimStation]

As soon as I get the machine running, I plan to cut out some solid block spacers.

[@maxmustermann2596]

@@TimStation, I had the same thought. Your old machine would have the capability, but you are not too keen to use it anymore?

[@glittalogik]

@@TimStation This tracks, I assumed the whole point of building a CNC machine is so that you use it to make parts to upgrade your CNC machine 😁

[@tin2001]

​@@glittalogik After doing a test/calibration cube on my first 3D printer, the next several days were spent printing upgrades to itself. I think I used about half the supplied 1kg spool of filament upgrading it 😂

[@pleasedontwatchthese9593]

@@maxmustermann2596 At the start of the video he said his old one broke and needed to source a new pc

[@Workshop_UA]

While I was waiting for the third part, I managed to assemble my own version of this machine from a 60x60 profile.

[@Kostassere]

Hahaha I did the same

[@Qwarzz]

Been a while! Had forgotten you're building this :)

[@jac2206]

Finally, i've waited so long. Very excited for you to finish it

[@pg9112471]

I started building cnc machines for a micro production shop that makes spinning tops that spin for 45+ minutes on a special base I haven't released yet. This was 7 years ago. My day job and life has my passion on hold. I hope I can some day get back to it.

[@SenkJu]

4:25 PCBWay or JLCPCB would probably be dying to sponsor you a machined/metal 3D printed version of this part, lol.

[@atharvabedarkar]

This CNC is coming together very nicely!

[@PiefacePete46]

When the video appeared on my list this morning, it already had the red line along the bottom, suggesting that I had already watched it, so I nearly dismissed it! Luckily I double-checked! 😊 Looking good, thanks Tom.

[@DoRC]

Next time you need to tap holes in aluminum get a Good quality spiral tap and a drill. You can plow right through in a single pass and tap each hole in about 20 seconds.

[@ddarcyy4367]

i reckon those spacers on the z/x axis are gonna cause some rigidity issues could be worth machining out some solid aluminium spacers.

[@TimStation]

As soon as I get the machine running, I plan to cut out some solid block spacers.

[@kylerguyler4761]

It makes me happy to see you on this project again. I enjoy watching you do this. Keep it up :)

[@yngndrw.]

A tip for the old PETG if you have a hot water cylinder, store the roll in your airing cupboard.

[@barnett25]

Translating to American: "A tip for the old PETG, keep it in your water heater closet."

[@adyx]

@@barnett25 Called a Hot Press in Ireland. 😂

[@WhatWorks-DIY]

What about filament dryer?

[@yngndrw.]

​@@WhatWorks-DIY You could use one, but there's no point in using one if you already have a suitable warm location. Tom's in the UK and from what he's shown in his videos, his house looks to be a larger house which would typically have such a cupboard. I've always thought that filament driers were a rather niche product as I bet that many people would have a suitable warm place somewhere within their house.

[@WhatWorks-DIY]

@yngndrw. I live in UK, my printer is in the livingroom which is the most exposed room and it's pretty cold, I use one of those filadryer s1 with a towel around it to insulate, I managed to get petg down to 25% humidity

[@homemadetools]

Nice work. We shared this video (alongside the first two parts) on our homemade tool forum last week 😎

[@Daaanin]

I genuinely checked 3 days ago for a part 3 ❤ Yayaay! \*grabs popcorn\*

[@Sakvisas]

I had really been waiting for this video for a long time. Thank you for sharing it with us!

[@mastasolo]

For any future projects that use water cooling, I would recommend adding biocide to the water to prevent any organisms from growing.

[@tin2001]

Or use automotive coolant if the parts involved can handle it. It'll last heaps longer than water alone and (assuming it's an antifreeze type) it will prevent any issues with frozen coolant bursting weaker parts of the cooling loop if it gets cold in winter.

[@mattivirta]

only idiot use only water, need use cooland liguid then not have bio problems. same than car used and any car not has bio problems ewer.

[@boltonky]

We didn't mind waiting :) Think its just sad there aren't more companies that do semi pro (hobby) style CNC's , here in NZ we had a company who was going to do them but went out of business i guess due to lack of people buying larger machines and everyone knows shipping a big item from overseas these days will break anyone. Look forward to next video

[@arielmarshall5501]

Love your design dude. Keep it up!

[@David_Phantom]

When the CNC is finished, you can use it to make replacement parts for the 3D printed parts. Also... imagine using this as a 3D printer?

[@tin2001]

It would be ridiculously slow as a 3D printer because of the screw drives. If you replaced the screw drive system with a faster method, the rigid frame would cause all sorts of print quality issues.

[@DaRealPedro404]

@@tin2001 What issues does a rigid frame cause? I thought a frame can never be too rigid.

[@SethCrowderMusic]

Freakin awesome man! I've been enjoying your videos the more into engineering and machining i'm getting into. Never really thought i'd be interested in that sort of a thing but well i definitely am, which is kind of funny. But yeah what i wanted to say is that with every kind of work, you always think your allllmost done like halfway through, so you know there's prooobably alot of work ahead i'd wager, but its super cool seeing this process, and thanks for sharing it!

[@free_spirit1]

I think you can get off the shelf cast/machined motor brackets with mounting provision for ball screw support blocks. They have machined pocket that ensure your motor and ball screw have good concentricity.

[@Leo99929]

You don't run water in a "water" cooling system. They always have some biocide and surfactant in there as a minimum. You can buy these as additives for PC water cooling, or just use car radiator coolant pre-mix. The high glycol content to prevent freezing might be useful in your garage, but does reduce performance a touch. Probably not enough to matter, just use a faster pump and bigger rads and fans.

[@MachinedInWood]

I’ve been running 2 air cooled 4KW spindles for over 4 years now. I’ve run over 3000 jobs, many of which were 3-4 hours at a time. My garage has neither heating nor cooling, so here in New England the temps range from under 0 to over 100F. I can’t imagine what advantage water cooling has to offer. Maybe a little quieter?

[@Del350K4]

Good work, Tom. Commendable rigidity.

[@arvidnorberg3530]

Do remember that the motors are not supposed to rest on the painted, non-machined surfaces, it may tilt them, and to be picky, it does not look very good that way. Exciting project!

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

0:49 - pro tip - machinist tap = you can mount it in a drill for extra Z axis stiffness add 2 pieces of aluminium flat bar opposite the spindle (as long as the axis- screwed to it ) so you create U shaped mount for bed u can do the same but under it in XY axis ,or maybe another project -- 2 pieces of aluminium (with dozen holes in it) and epoxy granite in between

[@LTVG.]

So something I learned when I made my cnc machine is that because steppers NEVER turn off they can get hot enough to melt the 3d printed part over a long operation. It shouldn't cause a major failure because it will just make the plastic soft and deform, but its still something to watch out for.

[@Kmnri]

Im getting a feeling you will regret getting air cooled spindle 😆

[@billysmether6237]

Do not use the parallel port. There is a hundred dollar adapter that easily lets you use a USB port. I run Mach 3 and Windows 11 ( you can use any version of Windows)!! I just use a 200 dollar minimal laptop.

[@mattivirta]

lot better use paraller port, i used old table computer and 10$ paraller port controlelr board, lot cheapen and working well alltime, usb have lot users problems and etheret have expensive use. i buy only 2 pcie paralelr port card to computer if not old computer have paraller port, old computers were have paraller port can buy 20-40$ and not need better can use whit cncmachine, best software have safety REALTIME controller linuxcnc. mach3 have dangerous and worst (what i used first cnc many year) but lot better flexiple and adjustable have linuxcnc and true lot better safety, if want perfect machine, buy old 20-50$ old computer, and perfect mesa card then have lot more input/output and controll all good, windows not newer used any factory automation not safety, need be real time controller whitout stupid windows interrupts alltime. this mean have lot lot safety all controll. pcie paraller port card cost 10-20$ not more and good parallerport breakoutboard cost 8-20$ not need more can run 4-5 axis whitout problems. but best controlelrboard have mesa card. expensive but perfect all cnc machine.about 200$

[@mattivirta]

USB and windows and mach3 have worst compination what newer can use cnc machine, cheap but not safety. and lot problems alltime. paraller port, linuxcnc old 20-50$ computer have lot lot better to cnc. production and factory not ewer used windows and USB port, only safety first then need use linux and paraller port. worst windows not can use REAL TIME, this is safety rule.

[@dfgaJK]

Other than friction and bendy bolts there doesn't seem to be anything to stop the Y-axis motor from partially rotating under it's own torque and causing a position error. Why didn't you just make another plate like the one holding the Y-axis bearing block?

[@MP-mu1kw]

Very interesting project. Looking forward to seeing it fully setup and milling stuff. I would like to build a smaller desktop size cnc and was curious to find out what type of extrusion profiles have you used for this build?

[@Cybernetic_Systems]

Great build update! The heat from the Nema 34 is going to soften PETG tho, it really needs to be ABS or ASA.

[@mattivirta]

really NOT need, need use ONLY aluminium NOT plastic ewer whit cnc. maybe some toy and small toy size cnc can use.

[@AttilaTamas112]

Cal Kestis hiding from the empire again, building awesom stuff :D

[@lukemanders]

Hi Tim I have worked on CNC Mills for over 13 years and what your doing is great. Just a thought maybe you could get a sheet of C250 Tool plate (30mm thickness recommend for a bed) as this makes good cheap Ish bed material. Any tool plate is good as it should come flat and parallel and stress relieved. If you phone up material suppliers they sometimes have a big off cut they will sell cheap. Try SMITHS, Optima metal services, aalco, mill stainless. If you ever need any CAD/CAM or support and I can help just give me a message. Cheers Luke

[@fukairen9601]

I build a high speed cnc router to mill foam around 7 years ago, putting things together was easy, but caliberate the alignment for rails was so damn hard.

[@Virenheiler]

In industrial automation we allign rails with the finished platform and sliders on top. One Rail is fully fixed, then the slider is moved from end to end to automatically align the second one.

[@phaelbotelho]

Comentando só para dar engajamento! Parabéns pelo conteúdo!

[@Hog-g2z]

Good morning 🌅, Very nice, From France

[@EhmedCousCous]

i've been missing these videos!

[@Yrocsrelles]

You also may want to make sure each pair of rails are in the same plane and that those planes are perpendicular to each other.

[@RJB510]

I hope he comes back and does this properly! Most people 'tram the spindle' without accounting for correct orientation of the axis relative to motion. Dial indicator to measure z axis relative to X and Y. A flat bed and decent 123 block will do it at a pinch.

[@xyzspec82]

Good luck dude 👍🏼

[@ekner]

Looking forward to seeing it make some chips!

[@abdullahmassraf7420]

Great work! I have been checking my notifications everyday waiting for part 3. Are you planning to post the CAD model in future?

[@Slikx666]

Bad Obsession Motorsport has a rival a project that's taking ages. Just another 5 years to go! 😆

[@JebJulian]

For the cutting bed, get a quote from a laser cutting company at the size you need. You'd be surprised.

[@Mythrunes]

You can get an adapter for parallel port, also you can run mach3 on windows 10 or whatever you like.

[@TimStation]

I bought a windows 10 machine with a parallel port adaptor, but it didn't work. Apparently it requires windows 7 32-bit or older. However, I also tried a windows 7 32-bit machine and the mach3 driver blue screens the computer haha

[@Sergeant898]

@@TimStation Why are you still using a parallel port? USB mach3 boards are extremely cheap from China and work perfectly with windows 10.

[@mattivirta]

@@Sergeant898 USB have lot lot lot problem and ewer not can run important real time. safety have important and need use REAL TIME process. and thats have only linuxcnc what used many factory automation ,factory not ewer used automation whit worst window OS, not safety and not REAL TIME. if want perfect safety cnc need use linuxcnc software, mesa card, old 40$ or better computer, NOT laptop, many laptop ports not give out real 5V only 3,3Volt and all software not working good this volt have too weak.

[@bami2]

The dust guards look amazing, even with crappy print quality.

[@Spacem3]

Heaps keen for more of this

[@builderboy5502]

4:50 If you're looking to get better quality with that filament, you'll have to remove the mosture built up inside it. If you heat the spool in an oven or a drybox over time ( temp. depends on material, but theres a few recommended values and methods online it'll take the moisture out of the filament. You can also toss some dessicant packs in a box, and it should keep the spool dry for a while.

[@thecaptainnoodles]

10/10 day massively improved

[@wickedcoyote271]

I would make a metal frame and use a piece of wood attached to the frame as the bed. Most I’ve seen use a static/fixed bed and a moving gantry.

[@keysimfr]

Are you building a CNC or a TANK, not sure anymore. I will never make a CNC myself, but I love watching anyway 😄

[@valeeeeeaaeeeeeeeeee]

See ya next year! Just joking. Amazing project! Love it!

[@____5837]

Still not cheap, but clickmetal seems to have the cheapest aluminium tooling plate in the uk. Cheaper than aluminium warehouse's standard plate. About £150 for 520 x 520 x 16mm

[@tinkerjar396]

Nice! Good effort, see you in 6 months or so😄

[@canadianric]

I totally get that you can afford to just buy a top end CNC machine, and I also get that this is about challenging yourself but what I am genuinely curious about is is this a cost saving device? Taking in account your skilled time, labour, knowledge and materials did you actually save any money? Not that it matters, I am just curious.

[@BeefIngot]

You might want you a fancy 4 spool printdry filament dryer. Combined with my AMSes it makes it much easier for me, a lazy person, to actually dry filament.

[@JosephStory]

03:27 hope that wasn't the sound a ball bearing bouncing on the floor.

[@dx-xb]

Will you release some design files?

[@inraarni100]

Cal Kestis also pro in the CNC machines. Nice.

[@OddJobEntertainment]

My man, what kind of work holding is that!!??

[@RJB510]

The fan on the motor is fine. But the shroud sucks. 3d print a mount that allows you to attach a 32mm or so flexible hose and vent it away from the cutting. It allows for cool air and limits dust and chips and also, significantly cuts down the noise. As most of the noise is from the fan!

[@lolcec81]

Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.

[@Wingspan_5]

It's really starting to come together.

[@ashutoshrajput3757]

this is so late that now i have to watch part 1 and part 2 first.

[@IrenESorius]

Hes alive,, 👍‍‍🌟👍‍‍

[@tanjiro3285]

i was waiting for this for a long timee, love uuuu

[@xskoo7330]

you really should avoid placing any 3D-printed parts close to heat sources, like for example stepper motors. those plastic parts taught me a big lesson.

[@flashbond]

European mindset is very different from a Turkish mindset. He said, it is difficult to find a cutting bed with a reasonable price at that thickness. If I were him I would invest to best plate which fits my needs and try to compansate its cost in the future.

[@giantman261]

Those spacers are going to cause a lot of rigidity and vibration issues. Ideally the blocks should be mounted flat on the surface.

[@discipleoftheword1785]

Nice job

[@AndrewAHayes]

I saw the thumbnail and thought it was a counterfeit channel, with the Tim Station monikor!

[@LibertyRoleplay316]

have you thought of getting two 300x500 6-8mm sheets and tap and screw them together algone the edge and like 4 near the middle in a square shape for even tension and have small one for smaller items

[@-BlackBird7]

Nice build! Where did you get your ball screws from / what size are they?

[@jakubjakubowski944]

Arent those huge rails overkil for rigidity of aluminium beams?

[@snik2pl]

I always thought water cooling was the best. Have you thought about changing from water to car engine coolant?

[@leec2782]

Looking good. Is there any lateral flex with the z at the end of travel? Screws not bolts :-)

[@narha_syd]

Me who forget and see the notification: A surprise to be sure, but a welcome one.

[@monad_tcp]

2:47 I thought you would put the bolt in the lathe and cut it. Well, that solution of just removing the washer was simple. (and that's why I never finish my projects)

[@keinschwein8467]

Glad to hear no balls were lost in the process.

[@davers1610]

Do you know what kind of control you intend to use? A friend and I have developed a linuxcnc raspberry pi hat. It is currently in testing but we are trying to get them out there and being tested. In fact I am in the process of putting one on a very similar machine.

[@SchwachsinnProduzent]

Maybe I am dumb, but couldn't you use a frame out of cheap angle iron, which fixes a thick wooden spoil board, that you use the cnc mill to flatten peferctly parallel to your x and y axis? For many operations I would assume, that you would add a vice with some bolts on top and big sheets of iron etc could get screwed down with a bunch of wood screws: Drill a few holes in strategic points, fix with a woodscrew into the spoil board and remove everything once you are done.

[@LanceCSTCuddy]

I love the thumbnail lol

[@tehsimo]

Are those linear bearings really smooth or do they just look kinda sticky on the video? They look like they have a fair bit of stiction.

[@Chris-bg8mk]

All those little bitty spacers are a terrible design mistake in a machine tool, that must be as rigid as possible. If you can't design them out, at least replace them with solid blocks of metal. Keep at it Tom!

[@TimStation]

The first parts I plan to cut out are replacement solid blocks haha! Thanks!

[@SkansgardCNC]

Tip for threads: even a router is able to mill threads, and chinese threadmills are more than good enough 😅

[@bricklearns]

Might be able to score a plate from a scrap yard if you have more time than money

[@ahbushnell1]

Looks good.

[@Astral_Knowledge]

1:00 you can also use a current pc with a unc100 by cncdrive

[@kurttaz]

I can't wait to see this cNc make some yummy chips

[@johngrimble3050]

Do you need a stiff spacer for the z-axis carriage? Could machine adapter plates once it's running.

[@Feivel8374]

Please don't wait another 7 months on part 4. 👍👍

[@woodworking_automation]

love it!

[@Lucas_sGarage]

Dude, there is something called printnc which is a CNC machine with a bunch of 3d printed parts, and it cuts steel, don't wrap your head around avoiding printed parts, they are strong enough for your application

[@robertschnobert9090]

I love this video 🌈

[@griptopia]

mach 3 runs on windows 10 and a u100 conversion unit will fix that issue getting the parallel to talk to the usb.

[@mattivirta]

and can buy pci or pcie paraller port card, cost normal 20-30$ working well, i have my computer 2 pcs paraller port card and use my cnc lot input/output ports.

[@RobertoCresto]

I was looking to do something like this years ago... Bit atopped because of cost among other things. Will you do a overall cost at some point? Or you prefer not knowing? 😂

[@68HC060]

You know, Tim, you have an almost identical twin called Tom... 😉

[@keithviolette5870]

Please tell me some of the first parts you're going to machine with the new CNC are replacements for those long bolts with the aluminum sleeves that mount your z-axis. Those must easily be the weakest link in the design.

[@TimStation]

That's the plan! Replace them with solid block spacers as soon as I can.

[@TheMan-nk6cj]

Please change the distance bolts with some solid blocks.