Building a Fly Cutter - Addendum

[@mr1enrollment]

Tony, you said "sorry" ??? You have nothing to be sorry about - all the effort to make these videos is a great service to us all. Thanks

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Daniel Wahl a

[@coleeverman672]

"I sat down with my staff of writers and producers and chided them severely"...you got me Tony...ya got me good. I laughed, out loud, at my desk at work.

[@jonobvious]

Three videos and not a single fly has been cut, clickbait title!

[@olivierTUBO]

jonobvious hahaha!

[@GeneralSeptem]

You don't have to kill the fly to circumcise the fly.

[@imagineaworld]

tot wouldnt hurt a fly!!

[@rolandocrisostomo2003]

It's takes a while, I would put some sugar or honey on the cutter.

[@christophersmith108]

Rolando Crisostomo I find bacon grease as lubricant works too

[@guyward5137]

As always another great video. It's always amazed me the things people comment on and worry about. If you worry about every little detail of a project nothing will ever get done. Thanks again Tony. Always enjoy your videos one of the best KZbin channel GW

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I have a theory on the satin finish with the HSS tool against the high gloss finish with an carbide insert: Carbide inserts for steel have generaly a rounded cutting edge to make them last longer. That resultsts not only in a cutting action, but also a burnishing action, which results in the high gloss finish. The HSS is normaly sharpened to a deadly sharp edge and will cut no matter how shallow of a cut you take. The cutting action results in this satin finish. Just a beer-idea without beer ;)

[@experiencingtechnicaldiffi5184]

There is a lot of truth in that. Also involved is the plastic deformation caused by higher speeds and pressure. Some times the chips come off in a near liquid state which is why they turn colors or throw sparks. If you cut at low speeds with regular insert tooling usually that will be reflected in the finish. HSS can't take the pressure or speed because the edge breaks down or the chips want to weld to the tool at higher speeds both of which cause for exciting results. The carbide usually fails by erosion as the chips remove tiny amounts of the tool until a fragile edge is formed which breaks away. This is why coated inserts will last longer as the chip doesn't contact the carbon in the tool. Coating can also be of benefit to HSS. Look at drills and taps many of which are coated to prevent chip weld and erosion. Of course lube helps in that regard also. Mike (o\!/o)

[@meocats]

get the appropriate insert geometry don't philosophise about which innappropriately chosen insert might work. we need reproducible logial processes to progress as a society.

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. So what happened with the beer? All the best.

[@ThisOldTony]

I would tend to agree -- especially considering 99% of my insert tooling is negative rake. Also HSS is a bit temperamental -- the finish it gives, independent of the grind, also depends on the material it's up against.. not so much with inserts -- which may go to further advance your burnishing theory.

[@einars899]

My theory is that the piece you milled is construction steel that gives a bad surface finish pretty much however you do it. A free machining steel would come out a lot better.Or that a nice and shiny weather would give you a nice and shiny surface?

[@farmerwoody123]

Yay two TOT videos in 24 hours!

[@daniellassander]

I found your channel about a month ago, and i have to say i love it!

[@tek4]

Daniel Lassander I love tot, he is awesome and ave, abom79, oxtoolco, and of course Mr Pete 222, oh and Randy Richard in the shop, Keith fenner, and a few more I'm sure I missed

[@daniellassander]

tek413 The only person i am subbed to from those is ave, i will have to look the other channels up, thank you very much!

[@KnolltopFarms]

Bro...you're going to be SOO stoked on the other channels if you like machining and metal-work in the slightest. The other channels for the most part aren't as comedy laden, but they are all very entertaining in other ways if you enjoy learning. I will admit that Mr.Pete222 doesn't do it for me, but that's likely because of the grumpy shop teacher he allows into his videos. Feeling like you're being admonished while watching a video is annoying to me...Please let us know how you feel about the other channels, I for one would be interested in your critique...Aloha, Chuck.

[@MrTrustafox]

Yes, it's definitely the best This Old Tony channel!! I'm not machinist but enjoy it hugely.

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. That is strange, I have the same feeling when watching Mr Pete's videos. However, I can't help watching them anyway. Kia Ora. And all the best.

[@mikeoliver3254]

I wish you could go full time you tube of the many machining you tubers I watch your videos are my favorite.

[@lito11111940]

Agreed, content, editing and the subject is always interesting and informative.

[@trufix72]

I wish I was your son Tony. You make a great dad with a lot of stuff to learn.

[@stefantrethan]

Oh by the way what I wanted to mention, these AC contactor coils will burn out if the contactor doesn't fully close (stuck, bug in it, etc..). The current reduces dramatically once the air gap in the magnetic circuit is closed due the increase in inductance. That, overvoltage, and insulation breakdown are pretty much the only reasons why they can burn out. So inspect that contactor to make sure it moves freely if you fix it.

[@richardpatterson4312]

Good point! It's been a long time since school but that makes a lot of sense.

[@rstubocca6737]

Aww, Old Tony... I'd like it if you had seen it through. For example recutting the HSS geometry and recalculating the speeds & feeds for the fly cutter vs. steel and give it another go. That content would be even more informative as we, the viewers, would get a look over the shoulder of a world class machinist in real world scenario. In other words, when he needs to recalculate and/or re-shape his tooling to get the best results out of (this or) that particular tool. It would have been nice to see the walk through on that matter. You're a class act, Old Tony. I've thoroughly enjoyed all of your videos. Most of them twice! And this one is no exception. Thank you!

[@Neffers_UK]

I only have a vegetarian lathe and associated tools, but I find your channel fascinating. Guys such as yourself, Tubalcain, AvE et al. really make me wish I had the learning behind me and budget to be able to play with 'proper' engineering machinery. Thanks for the entertainment over the past year or so I have been watching, long may it continue. Happy new year and thanks again.

[@WesleyHarcourtSTEAMandMORE]

Neffers you'll be surprised how cheap you can find quality machines and tools on Craigslist, at auctions, etc. keep looking. You'll find something.

[@WesleyHarcourtSTEAMandMORE]

Neffers you'll be surprised how cheap you can find quality machines and tools on Craigslist, at auctions, etc. keep looking. You'll find something.

[@Neffers_UK]

I keep looking, believe me I do. Sadly my budget is minimal to say the least. My veggie lathe was a donation, I'm still to find "proper" turning tools so second hand chisels shaped to pretend they are made for the job is the way I roll. It's all good though, inspiration is always there. Can't stop the desire to make stuff if I try - though the weather is a bit of a downer for me at the moment lol. Thanks for the belief ;)

[@EnlightenedSavage]

I found a fully powered Cincinnati tool master mill for 500$. I have seen even bigger and nicer machines for the same price I just don't have the room for it now . That stuff is out there just keep looking.

[@phooesnax]

Thanks Tony! Always great to stop by and visit. Hope to see you soon.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

People will most likely find some fault no matter what you do or use. I think you made a really nice useful tool.

[@jaysilverheals4445]

@@kwakmad91 actually what it is is that there are alot of advanced commenters sneaking in. A classic flycutter as he made is generally a first project for beginners however they are not good tools and dangerous and slow and too many things to list. People do appreciate his love of the trade and expert way he makes the videos and when I watch videos I dont nit pick them since they may be fine for those in that part of their experience..Please note--that he had to stop the cut part way through because you cannnot use hss on steel with a flycutter--its too slow plus you have to feed on--then back off combined with you cannot debur the edge by seeking to cover an entire object with a single giant cutter.. Should a person decide to make a carreer out of machining they in fact will be forcibly stopped from using classic flycutters.. I made great complex balanced ones--and threw them out so as not to spread the cancer to the next group of beginners..

[@crichtonbruce4329]

@@jaysilverheals4445 I was taught milling by a retired tool and die maker of over 40 years experience, and he taught that fly cutting (for non production work) with HSS is an acceptable, precice, and cost effective method for cutting steel. He told me to use them wherever possible.

[@keynant]

Hey Tony, great set of videos, as always...If you're already in the habit of picking out questions, here's one I'd love seeing you bable on about - tool geometry. I'm not a machinist by any means, but I was always interested in the meaning and effect of rake/positive/negative etc...

[@patrickholmes001]

Another vote for a geometry/chips video! I can't sit through another Abom, Tubalcain, or OxTools video! Teach us, oh wise one!

[@unogazzy84]

I really love your videos. I learn a lot and even though I have never even seen a metal lathe or a mill irl, I could still have a use for that knowledge later in life. I also like your sense of humor, it makes the videos more enjoyable. Keep up the good work.

[@brianCAD48]

I use flycutters a lot - more often in a horizontal spindle where contours ground into the tool can provide otherwise tricky shapes in the workpiece. This was called "flick milling" at one place I worked at. I'd be very wary about having so much tool sticking out the rear side of the flycutter as Tony shows initially. This can collide with any shoulders in the work - or e.g. catch a hand held brush when applying coolant etc. While watching the progress of the cut, one can too easily overlook the wider swing of the rear of the tool until it collides with something.

[@11RapidFire11]

Hi, I'm a mechanical engineering student and i find your videos very educational and entertaining so thank you. Here's an idea for a video; I know in theory, what increasing the different angles and speeds does to the surface finish, but it would be nice to see how great of an impact a 20% increase in feed rate has on the surface in practice. Perhaps taking a control cut off some stock and then redoing it while tweaking variables could be interesting.

[@Engineerd3d]

Tony; I have to say your a craftsman through and through with a sense of humor only Alberto Sordi could have. I enjoy your videos tremendously. BTW, please post a part number for that contactor. Some may be able to find a plug and play unit, if not you can use the carcass of the old one to fasten a newer style one on there. :)

[@100nortonfan7]

Thanks for these very informative videos, Tony. Very useful tools to expand the capabilities of the workshop. I also appreciate your 'unpredictable' wit and humor; something we can all appreciate in our daily walk through life. I was wondering if you have considered making a video on how to make an air bearing spindle in the home workshop, primarily to be used in sharpening of tools, i.e.: drills, milling cutters, taps and reamers? There is precious little out there in the way of information about these spindles, much less for the home hobbyist or small machine shop. Please keep up the good work you do...you are an inspiration to many of us. BTW, I began watching your videos when you were scraping your machines into precision and found your tenacity and workmanship quite admirable, indeed!

[@ThunderDog]

Gotta make one of these when I get a chance. Great stuff, and nice thunder.

[@FredMiller]

As always, Thumbs up on your video! Thanks Tony...

[@sarotouloughian1890]

I don't often write any comments for videos I watch. If I don't like the content, the presenter, or his/her clothes or hair, I just don't watch more of their content and move on. I find myself frustrated with your videos because I don't have time to sit and watch them end to end as I'd like. I do have to get up eventually and feed myself and hopefully earn enough turning trick...working....ahem, to pay the bills. The reason I'm so drawn to your videos vs those of other machinists who show similar content with equal or better information (kidding [not really]) is 1) production value, 2) presentation of content, 3) you don't show your face. Cute hands though...Seriously, I have enjoyed your work, including the bad machinist dad jokes, and have even managed to learn a few things. Congratulations on 100k subscribers. I'm happy to be one. Not sure when you reached this milestone exactly so let's just let it be a blanket type thing. Just congratulations and here's hoping for another hundred thousand(ths)! Thank you.

[@BertalSofiane]

Thanks for answering questions i'm not even qualified to ask them i love your videos, even though i'm not a machinist at any means, i'm civil engineer, but man ... two videos in one day !!! ... i feel blessed AF :D

[@rustyshakelford4232]

"Chided them severely." Cracked me up!

[@BerndFelsche]

Next level up is castigation!

[@thething4763]

I appreciate the obvious amount of fore though you put into these productions. Excellent work. Do you remember Piere's 14" swing fly cutter. Now that even had him standing back on power up!

[@janvanruth3485]

i got a big index able face mill and took all the inserts out but one, works like a charm.....

[@jokaxp]

Hello from each video i watch i learn something. and thanks mentioning metric as well as imperial measurments:)

[@laernulienlaernulienlaernu8953]

I know you work in those old timey measurements but I like how you tell us the dimensions in new money for all us normal people watching

[@goldenmath4091]

We used to make em outta 4" diameter and put 5/16" tool steel in the outer edge at 45 degrees, the worked very well, it was about 1/2" thick and we pressed a center bar in.. Lots of ways to do it.. Cheers

[@ianmoone2359]

I admit that not being an engineer nor machinist in metal - the look of the tool retention system in the fly cutter made me wince! I am a timber machinist. I do use a shaper / spindle moulder. It spins at 6000 rpms. I have no idea what speed this fly cutter operates at. Years ago we bought an ancient shaper / spindle moulder. The cutter knives were clamped into the spinning block with a set screw clamping system. It wasn’t like today’s modern shaper heads with retainer pins to help prevent the cutter knives from flying out of the head of the clamping mechanism failed. Because it was a new to us old machine bought at auction, when we set it up for its first run & being aware of the potential danger to life and limb, we checked and double checked everything, turned the circuit breaker off out in the meter box, then plugged the shaper in and switched it on. Then one guy hid down behind another cast iron jointer thickness planer that we had been using and it had its cast iron tables folded in the up position like bat wings. I went out and activated the mains switch / circuit breaker in the meter box to turn it on, so that no one was in direct line of fire, if the shaper knives somehow dislodged on start up. And let fly they both did at full 6000 rpms. One cutter knife hit one of the cast iron tilted tables on the jointer and left a dent in the cast iron a full half inch deep before ricocheting off in the upwards direction through the corrugated iron roof sheeting and off into the scrub behind the cemetery next door to put factory. We never did find that cutter knife. The second knife that let fly penetrated 10 x 3/4 inch sheets of melamine chipboard one our material rack, went through the half inch pine ship lap boards on our office wall, then through the 10mm gyprock plasterboard wall sheeting of the opposite office wall, through another 10mm gyprock plasterboard Sheet into our furniture showroom, through the opposite 10mm gyprock plasterboard wall Sheet on the outside wall of our showroom and continued on through the half inch hardwood weatherboard exterior cladding of the showroom wall and into the neighbors cow paddock! We never found that knife / cutter again either! We had to scrap the jointer, because it was unusable with the huge dent in its machined flat surface, it actually warped the cast iron Infeed table. Had to patch the roof and repair office & showroom walls. That one lesson of what can go wrong taught me that old tooling without retention pins, that relies on just clamping pressure from set screws - just isn’t safe in today’s day & age. Modern shaper heads have the retention pins as well as the clamping mechanism, and now they also have depth limiters as well ahead of the cutter knives to limit the depth of cut that can be taken by the following cutter knife etc. These are safety enhancements to help prevent the types of mishaps that can potentially kill people in the workplace. I guess if a fly cutter operates at relatively slow speed in a mill for cutting metal the centrifugal forces involved are much reduced from those of timber shaper / spindle moulder heads. But just watching you design and manufacture that fly cutter without for eg any drilled dimples for the set screws to locate into in the HSS tool, to prevent it sliding out of the fly cutter body lengthwise while spinning had me cringing. Surely you could put 2 matching dowels into the tool body and two matching holes in the tool itself that “locate / index the tool into its position under rotational centrifugal force and dimple the clamping face so the set screws locate into the v drilled dimples on the tool face? Maybe I’m worrying about nothing, but 25 odd years later the old shaper spindle moulder Head lesson has stuck with me and I am very risk adverse about anything that spins at high RPMs. My 2c

[@jaysilverheals4445]

not sure if you are still there but be aware that the inserts that go in your index cutters you use--you can also use the other edge as a flycutter --they do in fact sell the body but you can also simply make a flycutter concept with a couple insert pockets . I have used that style of insert with its clearance already on it for decades. To be clear on those small inserts--you can use 4 edges not just the 2..

[@dizzolve]

1:15 I'm about to build a fly cutter and for balance was considering leaving the bottom square to the spindle and only cutting the tool bit channel at the (in your case) 10 degree angle. There's really no need to remove that material. Or is there? Another mitigating approach could be to forego cutting so much off one end for the set screw face. Instead clearance holes could be drilled to accommodate a hex wrench while only the very bottom half inch or so would be threaded. What are your thoughts ....... after seeing your surface finish, I'm not sure how much better it'd perform. But maybe for larger fly cutters, these ideas could help keep everything balanced better

[@dsit9955]

Great follow-up video, you should do this in future projects! Moar Content!!

[@Cactusworkshopchannel]

Thanks for answering all the questions!

[@livingwoodcreations-woodtu6540]

Cactus! workshop when are you getting a mill? Someone send him one

[@Cactusworkshopchannel]

hahah I wish!

[@livingwoodcreations-woodtu6540]

Cactus! workshop i bet you could make some awesome stuff 👏

[@AlaskaSkidood]

You answered my question! Great video.

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed the series!

[@geoffflato6065]

Im going to be making one of these for my mill fairly soon. The standard chinese flycutter set only goes up to 3/8 tool bits. Planning on making one for 1/2" tool bits. In particular one of the kennametal brazed carbide bits Ive got. Making it specifically for one job ive got that involves facing off a large piece of hardened steel. Id rather regrind the carbide bit a few times, then go through a bunch of inserts on the sandvik face mill. Should hopefully work pretty well.

[@eloyworkshop541]

increíble, espectacular, muy buen trabajo!!!

[@mikewebink]

Hey Tony, I’m watching this again, in 2023. Did you end up making the surface gauge? Because I can’t find your video of this. Your videos are seriously the only reason I started watching machining videos. Now I’m saving up for a lathe. Thanks for what you do.

[@AllTiedUpFlyTyingSchool]

Thanks for the follow-up.

[@christiangnagi6135]

Hi ToT, about the coil - I know this is late but for the sake of posteriority - here goes: This is a coil from a contactor "CA 1-10" by the company "Sprecher und Schuh". I had the same problem in a ventilation installation; mine was visibly cooked. They were very popular in the seventies but I could not find a replacement in Switzerland. So I had mine rewound for 240V and set it back in. Works fine. The company that made it was: www.feindraht.ch/ Hope this helps, gnasch

[@shurdi3]

A bit late, but was a contactor coil seriously made by a company called "speaker and shoe"?

[@brandonthebuildertx]

@@shurdi3 A bit late to your a bit late, but google says it was founded by Carl Sprecher and Heinrich Schuh, so yes, haha.

[@hyahmuleart7144]

@@brandonthebuildertx a bit late, but I’ve really enjoyed this comment t thread

[@AutomationBoy2]

Way more than a bit late, most contactors that can be mounted to a DIN rail also have two screw holes allowing surface mount to a panel.

[@bstanga]

another great three parter tony!

[@jackrichter6400]

Can't believe people is scared of that small fly cutter, i use a 300 mm by 100 mm thick one over 1200 rpm everyday. Nice video.

[@danhadamik7867]

Hello, I am a machinist also. I use fly cutters often. the store bought ones I use, have the set screws on the other side of the tool bit. so when it is thightened, will place it in the same place. Am sure you understand.

[@christophermackley8084]

I had the same thought. All the homemade fly cutters I've watched follow the same pattern, and have the screws on the side which pushes the tool away from the centre line. This, added to the tool grind, means that the cutting edge is off centre, as you note, but it may not matter too much, with a large diameter cut. Presumably the screws are on that side, where there is more 'meat', for a more secure thread

[@pauldevey8628]

Good info on some fly cutter theory.

[@soberhippie]

I have nothing to do with machining and any of that stuff, but I do like your videos. Unbelievably professional and entertaining. I'd say you should find more dudes to do the actual machining, and concentrate on writing and directing the videos. I honestly think that if there were more videos like this, it could make the whole process of educating machinists efficient and engaging. But considering the fist sentence in this text, I might be completely wrong.

[@BurtonsAttic]

Good information, thanks!

[@flatbrokefrank6482]

A huge advantage with single point cutting is the ease with which you can sharpen the cutter they are a lot cheaper to run than an end mill - ATB

[@ShainAndrews]

Addendum? This is unprecedented. Per protocol I believe the addendum should be sequentially numbered.

[@azyfloof]

I'm just pleased there's an extra ToT video! :D Hope you're having a fantastic new year, Tony! Chowdered contactor coil aside. Hey quicky question, why _does_ carbide work better at the faster RPMs? And what are the consequences of running it slower?

[@andybelcher1767]

Hi Tony, I have enjoyed all of your videos, and like these three just as much. I have to ask a question of those worried by the overhang of the cutting tool; why the hell do you want to put any of your body parts near the revolving tool? Safety starts with thinking about what you are doing before doing it. If you think that something is dangerous then don't do it. Apply common sense...except Mark Twain said that the problem with common sense is that it ain't very common!

[@Abipso]

Could you make a video about chips ? What they must look like (shape, colour, length..), what to do (change feed rate, rpm...) if they're not the right way (spaghetti..) and maybe how the tooling (machining aluminum with a tool for steel) or material (quality and composition of the alloy) might affect chips. And why bad chipping makes bad surface finish, or other things..

[@experiencingtechnicaldiffi5184]

You can learn about these things from Abom 79. Adam talks about chip control and surface finish in many of his videos. He and some other tubers have a running discourse about that subject. Mike (o\!/o)

[@Abipso]

I'll look up to that, thanks :)

[@wallacesaan]

Abipso - there is also an excellent series of videos provided by 'that lazy machinist' both on KZbin and via his website. He has a very comprehensive set of videos on cutting tools, chip formation, feeds and speeds, etc. Definitely worth watching IMHO

[@stevecoe-pcjunke2377]

Nice followup!

[@thandles_workshop]

works great👍im going to make one after i finish my mill..

[@mikes2381]

Tapio Kahelin gotta finish the lathe before that. and before that I have to finish the cold chisel for you. Still working on chopping the wood with a stone axe so I have something to burn in the kiln I'm making. Have it on it's way in 24 hrs. ...After I get off KZbin.

[@thandles_workshop]

Mike Stromecki wow.. thanks Mike! My lathe is finished.. but im still digging ironstone from my backyard for the millingmachine.. and the hole is too deep now.. cant get out.. watching youtube from mobile..

[@trevorschretlen3884]

I have a *slightly* unrelated question, how did you get into this? do you work in engineering or manufacturing? if no, what made you decide to start machining and where did you find the equipment for your shop? I feel like the clapped out Bridgeports you see at auctions are a little on the skeezy side in that you have no way of knowing how far out of tram, or just how beat the mill/lathe/etc. may be without buying it and taking the whole thing apart, or just buying it and trying to make things.

[@ThisOldTony]

I started out with one or two benchtop mills.. the cheap rong-fu style.. then "upgraded" to a clapped out bridgeport. I only got the schaublin.. a year ago?

[@randytravis3998]

@@ThisOldTony in your spare time can you build me a shop with all the tools ,, LOL like who has spare time any more .. great videos thank you for the time you take too put them out ,,

[@franktkalcevic5342]

I've always read that carbide tooling doesn't like interrupted cuts. Are they ok for flycutters?

[@ColKorn1965]

The guy who owns this shop where I work was also Machine Shop instructor at our local community college during the evening classes.All of my fly cutters are salvaged from a box of failures at the school. I never had to " make" a fly cutter, only rework them.

[@MrJob91]

Someone said AVE is jealous of your content XD

[@AutoAnomoly]

Job91 AVE makes this guy look like a rocket surgeon.

[@KnolltopFarms]

Yeah, AvE is more in the comedy and chatter department in my opinion, and anyone with taste can clearly see TOT's editing and post production are head and shoulders beyond any of the other machinists channels. I keep bugging him to make a Game-Show themed episode, and knowing him he will blow my expectations out of the water! :)

[@MaDeuce80]

Two different types of content brother

[@Molb0rg]

Knolltop Farms I would say AvE more in deconstruction department, or at least things of him I watch times to times, and they are useful in their own way. Wonder what would happen to mix those 2 approaches - hardware revers engineering I guess, hm Team of TOT, AvE and Applied science with peeper of Cody's lab - would be zonder command. maybe a bit collaboration with with Copenhagen Suborbitals - yeah, dreams dreams dreams

[@Keith_Ward]

Yep, he is certainly more into comedy than usable technical content. It is one of the few channels I just couldn't take and unsubbed. You'll notice a substantial difference in subscriber numbers from usable content to entertainment that pretty much reflects sort of a TV audience. I'll also add that we dropped cable TV several years ago now. He is a funny guy, but somehow it severely clashed with tech for me.

[@oldmanpatterson79]

Tony! Great video once again. I hope to be at your level of masochist someday myself 😉.

[@EdgePrecision]

Just found you channel a few days ago. I like you videos good photography good edits clear sound Awesome!! But (There is always a BUTT) Just one inconsequential comment. The feed at 100 RPM and 1.0" per minute would be .010" per flute just a bit fast for a good finish even with what looks like a sizable tip radius on your tool.

[@sarotouloughian1890]

Ok, I need to do my homework before I open my keyboard. Congrats on ONE MILLION subs. Ugh!

[@Marvin.Runyon]

Needs more kitten, 7/10.

[@KnolltopFarms]

Also..."More Cow-Bell!" :D

[@ismaeltrejo2173]

Can you some day make a video about Rpm, you explain things really well :D good luck old Tony!

[@Dunstonuk]

Why is it so important about the Chips colour? You mention this in quite a few of your videos.

[@ThisOldTony]

it can be a general indicator that your cut is going well.

[@sgs3minifan]

Hey I really enjoy your content and love all of your videos and I noticed that you did not acount for the time the cutter is not cutting douring one revolution when you were calculating rpms, you were calculating as the cutter was cuting the whole circle(1 ft) when in reality it was cutting maybe 1/4 of radius per revolution(so rpms schould be 400) maybe that is the reason for not perfect mirror like surface finish. I am sorry if I am wrong as I am not an expert in this field, and I would like to learn. Best wishes.

[@mr1enrollment]

It is the cutting "rate" that is important not the intermittent cut.

[@christophermackley8084]

It wouldn't matter if the cutter was just touching the work at the start of the cut, the tool tip speed would be the same, wouldn't it?

[@BillySugger1965]

Tony, I commented on your last video on how to rewind that coil, but there were 3k comments so if you can't find it, here's a copy... Tony, that's a relay coil? That shouldn't fail at all, least of all due to spindle overload. If it did overload, it should take out a breaker or the relay contacts, not the coil. Probably there was a latent defect in the coil itself, like a bad piece of insulation. You should be able to rewind it yourself. Measure the wire gauge and get some enamelled wire of the same gauge. Unwind the coil, counting the turns. Unsolder the wire from the terminals. Use fine grit paper to remove the enamel from the last 3/8" of the new wire and solder it to one terminal. Carefully and neatly wind on the same number of turns onto the bobbin, not pulling the wire too tight over the first loop tail. When you have the right number of turns on the bobbin, leave enough length to get comfortably to the second terminal, strip enamel off that and solder it on. Tape it up just as it was originally. Measure the resistance and compare it to the coil you got working. If the new one is within 25% of the good one, you're good to go.

[@ThisOldTony]

Thanks Billy!

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. What luck, the storm did not cause the power to fail, otherwise you had to machine it all in the dark. Nice project, as always.

[@gadget73]

Make sure the coil voltage matches your control voltage. Those coils rarely smoke unless its getting more voltage than it expects. Might be an issue with an incorrect tap selected on the control transformer. Depending who makes the contactor, you may be able to get the parts, or at least one that mounts in the same configuration. Who makes it?

[@fredrik.larsen]

Thanks for the videos, Tony. They are really informative and entertaining. Isn't it possible to fix the taper instead of throwing it away? Is it because of the amount of work, or would you need some special equipment to do it? Thank you :) - Fred

[@666MadDog]

cool series ! :)

[@BasementShopGuy]

Now we need "Part-3. Tony gets a REALLY nice surface finish on steel". C'mon, you can do this, we're all routing for ya....

[@SuperDuperTango]

Hey tony, I realize this is 3 years late, but is the cutting part of the video sped up? It seems the cutter is rotating much faster than 100 RPM. Just wondering. Thanks!

[@drekson23]

Do you need a high speed run or low speed when using fly cutter?

[@CajunNM]

Rewatching some older stuff and realized I haven’t ever seen the surface gauge build. Did it never happen or am I just not finding it?

[@stefantrethan]

My offer to rewind that coil for you still stands. You need to get the iron yoke off yourself, I'm not doing that and have it be my fault when the thing breaks into a million pieces.

[@denny9931]

The typical (for DIN rail and/or stud mount) 4kW contactor costs around 30 Euro. They are not that expensive anymore. Even a motor protection contactor w/ or w/o temperature probe is not that expensive. As for repairing that coil: the contacts on these contactors are subject to wear as well and there is only a certain amount of activations until they are chewed up. Old mill = many cycles, dusty environment or grinding grit = more wear, because that dust gets everywhere and mechanical switches are functional surfaces too. For a contactor this means: opening a switch under load (like reversing or switching the motor off) forms a small spark which creates micro-welds on the surface of a contact, which will be torn apart every time the switch opens. The more chewed up the surface is, the more of those welding spots it will have, because the spark gap forms at those craters. The coils could break because of vibration (by mechanical shock or humming at grid frequency), filter capacitors become dry/brittle and break (= voltage spike that might pinch insulation of the coil or wiring and cause short circuits between coil windings). The electrical side looks kind of rebuilt and new, but these contactors don´t last forever.

[@stefantrethan]

I know, it's not economical, I would also just pop another one in and call it done if I was asked to repair this as a job. It's also the more reliable option. But Tony is particular about neatness, he wants them to look the same. I have winding machines and magnet wire standing around, going to the post office would be more hassle for me than the actual re-winding, so why not if it makes him happy.

[@mjallenuk]

That explains a lot thanks ... ... quietly hits replay...

[@bostondan77]

Thank you for the video

[@tompickrell9125]

ive always wondered about fly cutting a cylinder head? please do a video even if it a junk head just love to see stuff done at home that would usually require paying some one else for.

[@rotaholik89]

Where is the surface guage video mentioned in part one?

[@kokosnusskaka]

Sorry, i guess you get asked this a lot, but what kind of mill are you using? Would you recommend it as a model to start with?

[@mpetersen6]

Nicely done. That said100 rpm at 25mm/1" per minute that's a .010 feed rate per revolution. going to .020" per revolution is IMO a lot. I generally do not like fly cutters. Not from a safety aspect but from a machine abuse aspect. Far too often I have see (and heard) them being used to rough stock down when the operation should of been done in either a shaper or Blanchard grinder if they were available. And in my former job they were. Invariably if someone was using a fly cutter in a mill with an adjustable head, be it a Bridgeport to a stout Cincinatti or K&T the Spindle would need to be checked for squareness to the table. Face or shell mills if abused can cause the same issue. Invariably the head if knocked out of tram will be low to the opposite of feed direction of the table. If you are feeding left to right (as is often the case to throw the chips away from you) the spindle will be kicked to the right causing the tool to be lower on the left side. This of course will result in a concave surface. So everybody please do not use these for roughing in steels, copper alloys or even aluminum. Finish cuts are fine. Just don't get carried away. as to tool profiles. I generally used a high shear angle tool with lots of top rake similar to a shaper tool with a larger tool nose radius. I found it caused less problems in the long run as long as speeds were kept down.

[@EddieTheGrouch]

Feed & Speed charts go to pot with fly cutters as the air time is not accounted for as the work is still advancing. You would need to decrease feed to a 1/4, hike up the speed, or use a big radius to get a flatter finish. Either way won't get an ideal chip load :(

[@Falney]

Who'd a thought it. An industrial tool is dangerous. Go figure.

[@thalivenom4972]

wait till they see angle grinders, or chainsaws, or children

[@thalivenom4972]

@Booge Nautilus haha, i haddnt thought of that, but it was correct for longer then it wasnt, history wise. i just meant kids drive you bananas

[@Sugarlesscoffeee]

Tony, what ever happened to that surface guage video that you spoke of? Btw I love your videos!

[@daveys]

I quite like the satin finish

[@BerndFelsche]

Junk tool holder might make an interesting candle stick that you can drop into e.g. a hole in the banister of your staircase. ;-)

[@meocats]

can you review does 12mm apkt single insert cutters? i was gonna buy one because the're less than 5usd shipped on ebay, but i was told they're flimsy. Can you show us some cuts with sound, full height of the insert, but not necessarily full involvement

[@hermannstraub3743]

Like it very much. Well done! With your relay: This may be "Metric". So if the Voltage ist lower, the current is higher and the coil burns away. Just guessing.

[@AttilaAsztalos]

That's not how electrickery works.

[@hermannstraub3743]

LOL sure not. I am Woodworker, i have no idea. I made it just to fit my mindset. In fact i saw the 220V tag and wondered if there are 220V single phase in that machine as there are most likely 110V coming from the plug.

[@mattruth7109]

Do you have a video on indexable milling cutters? I'm in the market for some roughing tools

[@bradymcphail9690]

Tony, I'm embarrassed to say that after 40+ years as a welder/fabricator I have no, none, zero, nill experience machining. I don't even understand terminology. I have a small Metal lathe/ mill that my grandfather, a Master machinist owned that was given to me when he passed away. and my father has several machines that will be left to me as well. I have a strong desire to learn, but I'm very overwhelmed from the videos that I watch. we have a very good program at the adult school in my home, however there is a 12 month waiting list to begin the program. I'm even an employee of the school district. Do you or your subscribers have any thoughts and/or ideas that might get me on the right track? I have kicked myself in my own butt several times for not learning, and now that my gramps is gone I'm heart broken for not taking time to learn from him. he was my greatest mentor teaching me all of my woodworking skills that is my second greatest love next to Welding. life got in the way, and now it's too late. thanks

[@ThisOldTony]

Starting with the lathe might be your safest bet.. just go easy / careful. Watch some of the vids here on youtube (MrPete222 is a good one). "How to Run A Lathe" is a good cheap book. That should get you started maybe till a slot opens up in the school? Do you know anyone who's into metalworking? Or maybe a local club? Be safe!

[@bradymcphail9690]

This Old Tony thanks Tony, all great ideas!

[@2testtest2]

If you do can tolerate really dry videos, the kind that makes Sahara look like a rain forest, check out THATLAZYMACHINIST here on youtube. He covers all the basics in a detailed and orderly way. As TOT said MrPete222 is also a good one. And before you start, a little note on safety, you may already know about these. Wear safety glasses whenever the spindle is running, and don't wear loose clothing like long sleeves and gloves while operating the machine. You would be amazed at how they can get hung up in rotating machinery. Since you are not wearing gloves use brushes and pliers to remove the chips to save your hands. Good luck

[@bradymcphail9690]

neistridlar thank you very much for that information. I am thankful for your safety reminders as well, as that all was in the back of my mind, and now in the very front where it should be. at my age, injuries take much longer to heal and hurt much more...

[@dougaldhendrick3497]

And BEFORE you start, oil every hole you find on machines.. sage advice from a pro machinist friend, ( but NOT any areas where electrical components, just the mechanical parts..) The other way to start to understand, is engage levers etc and manually turn spindles etc, ie you make the motive force, see what happens at extreme slow motion so to speak..

[@CUBETechie]

Did your mill support metric system or use inch?

[@KA4UPW]

Hey, I have a milwaukee m18 drill, and im looking for your video on the keyless chuck replacement

[@firersc4]

Wouldn't the Fly cutter make a curved cut like a linear bowl shape?

[@number40Fan]

What happened to the surface gauge?

[@3duckit]

You make some darn great content good sir. I once had a amazing head tramming but she cost a small fortune.

[@tolga1cool]

Thats quite a fly cutter you made there! Ha haha.. Im sorry for the bad pun

[@brandonlow27]

New to machine work, what exactly does it mean to have indexable tooling?

[@RambozoClown]

A replaceable cutting insert that indexes into the tool precisely. Usually the insert is made of carbide.

[@Halinspark]

I get the idea of why a fly cutter's imbalance would be worrying, but a boring bar is an asymmetrical workload and nobody worries about those exploding.

[@Traderjoe]

Even if it was perfectly centered, as soon as the leading edge contacts the metal being milled...the balance at that moment is out the window.