Building A Simple Lift Bridge With Hidden Hinges For My New Layout

I'm making a quick and nasty lift bridge for my new model railroad. Don't panic, this is just a prototype.
Here's a link to the Dowels: amzn.to/3UQtHXz
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[@donaldweiss2031]

For someone who has been at model railroading for less than a year you are doing a stellar job. The lift bridge is brilliant. Well done.

[@ScottRails]

Thanks Donald. Bridge needs a bit more work, but I think I'm on the right track. Pun intended.

[@TimsBitsnPieces]

Well, all I can say is.. thank you for taking your time..... MDF is a great product but not for this kind of use.

[@paulmarmion358]

👍

[@mysticrailroad]

nice work Dave! good bulk purchase of the cork. although it might need bracing, lift out looks solid :)

[@ScottRails]

Yes, a little spine will be installed along the middle.

[@aussiefrenchman-hobbytable9960]

Hi Dave, didn't think that was going to work at first! Great job mate 😎😎😎😎😎😎have a good one

[@vestafreyja]

So glad that you are using Robertson Screws to hold your layout together.

[@derekalexander4030]

That actually looks like it might work, lol. If you use a piece of 3/4 inch plywood for the lift up you can keep the hinges hidden by not going all the way through. I believe James has some good 3/4 ply. Nice design. Because you used the cabinet hinges and not the regular kind, you didn’t have to have the blocks on top of the lift bridge for where the screws go, it looks much better. Nice job, Dave.

[@ScottRails]

I plan to cover the top with some fine cork sheeting or something so all will be hidden.

[@steam1601]

I love your bridge it’s beautiful going to do mine soon to replace lift out bridge. Love your video.

[@newlynnrailway]

If you get a forstner bit you dont have to drill all they way through, If you think of the bridge as a cabinet door then the hinge should be set in the table frame, where it`s a stronger mounting and there`ll be no hole in the lift section. F profile channel screwed underneath would brace it to.

[@ScottRails]

I was looking for drill bits like that, but they are stupid expensive. What I might do is layer a section on top and glue it together to make the whole thing stronger.

[@newlynnrailway]

The cutter and jig are about 9quid over here on the bay and amazon@@ScottRails

[@Bliz0516]

Great Job! For the power from the dowels make sure to power some length on either side of the bridge from the dowel circuit. Just to allow for any coasting if the bridge is up.

[@ScottTaipaleRail]

Dcc concepts offers some nice alignment dowels that are intended to be powered.

[@theangelsmodellingandrailways]

The lift bridge is superb Dave, once you have the right piece of wood, there'll be no stopping you. Great progress mate. 👌

[@ScottRails]

James has already offered some nice ply cut to shape. I might need to re-enforce those hinges, they're a bit "bendy" lol

[@charleswalsh9895]

You should gap track on each side of bridge so the train doesn't run off the table when the bridge is up. Just suggestion

[@ScottRails]

Yes, electric isolators will be installed.

[@johnparker7874]

In your yard area, just lay the whole sheet of cork out. That way you can easily move tracks, should something not work out.

[@ScottRails]

Good plan, if I have a yard area.

[@Quince828]

That’s really inventive how you designed and built the bridge, especially using the brass ferrules for power connection. But I’ve gotta wonder if, given the height of your layout, you won’t most often end up ducking under instead of lifting simply because it’s convenient and doesn’t interrupt the trains or disturb scenery.

[@ScottRails]

My back strongly disagrees with your observation, lol.

[@o.northland4942]

Hi Scott, I did the same in bringing in a lift out bridge. Though I used a T shaped piece of aluminum, secured with edge shaped cornerpieces of steal. The bridge has no fancy hinges . I just take it out and put it back in: a true lift out bridge. Much easier to keep the rails aligned and moreover, it proved to be very durable. But ofcourse it takes a few seconds more…. Great Channel, love to follow your progress! Greetings from berlin

[@ScottRails]

Hallo Berlin. Wie geht es dir? I would definitely drop a lift out bridge.

[@DarkpawTheWolf]

This looks great. Can you post a parts list of what you used? I've never seen those brass dowels before - I assume you just got them at Home Depot or something?

[@ScottRails]

Here's a link to the Dowels: amzn.to/3UQtHXz The hinges can be bought at any hardware store. I got mine from Amazon, but the one's you require might be different for your own design.

[@Mike__B]

If you're not sold on this particular idea for your bridge, another potential idea is to do a flip down bridge instead, use a thin piano hinge, then the corners of the wood that makes up the bridge don't push against the foam board at all. You'll need to change up the holding mechanism on the other side, but the hinge mechanism doesn't have to be so complicated.

[@HHExpress]

Very nice Dave, getting some progress here

[@Scottish-Exile]

Fantastic video. Came to KZbin as I have the same need to bridge a gap on my first layout build. Would never have thought of cabinet hinges and I've even got some spare ones tucked away in the 'might come in handy one day' box. Great tip about the dowels for supplying power as that solves another one of my issues with a lifting section.

[@ScottRails]

The only design change I would make, is leave a little more space between where the rails meet. Even in my climate controlled basement, they have expanded a little and caused me to bend a couple of rails when I opened the bridge, which I had to repair.

[@leslamarch]

loving this series, thanks for all the content and hard work!! 🤩🤩

[@BriansModelTrains]

Very smart idea. I really enjoy watching your progress. It helps motivate me to work on mine.

[@ModelTrainOutsider]

Excellent design and work, but definitely go with hard wood... screws and pressure will slowly rip MDF apart and your hinges will fail down the road for the size and amount of work you are going to be working there.

[@caboosech]

Great job on your layout looking forward for more videos

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Great job Dave, I might have some extra plywood

[@ScottRails]

That would be awesome James. And I know you only have the good stuff.

[@steveg3981]

Nice one. Good presentation. Your thought processes are well explained. Thanks

[@LocomotionMotionNEW]

Great idea using those hinges, a neat install

[@joeraderblackrockcentralrr]

Moving right along. So far looking good Dave

[@whiterose7055]

Nice work, Dave !

[@peterwebster3076]

Thanks

[@ScottRails]

Thank you so much Peter again. I hope you are staying warm and well.

[@peterwebster3076]

@@ScottRails we are well considering we have no front windows due to the company ordering the wrong size so have to wait till end of the week to hopefully get correct windows so we are freezing all night and daytime cos we have wood where the windows should be and can see daylight through them and you are welcome my friend

[@darrellnorton2208]

Grand job. Like the use of the cabinet hinges and the brass. Would definitely go for a better piece of wood now you have the working prototype 🤨🤔😁👍. Mdf is guaranteed to let you down at some point in that kind of application. . . Looking good though. . Im taking notes. . And stealing ideas 🤔😉✌️

[@ScottRails]

It's not stealing, it's sharing...officer.

[@darrellnorton2208]

@@ScottRails on with fitting my first sound decoder to my flying Scotsman today. . Wish me luck 🤔🤨🤐

[@ScottRails]

Good luck, we await the results.

[@pfflyer3381]

👍 furring strips,bottom,could always change it later! Hells gate Bridge NY,/ Sydney Australia, STYLE top? 2c! The way you enter, the room!!, it's the center piece! I recall you cared for the different level(s) Maybe leaving it flat, two opposite run tracks.,....and a one car trolley, one engine, w/ a old pullman, second line upper level,to a corner sky resort, kind of thing? loop, or back, forth? Love the room! Just find the one engine and car for the slope, it can pull first! Thanks for a good honest diversion!

[@solargarage]

Love the bridge. Will there be plans to have flashing railroad stops signs when to bridge is up?

[@ScottRails]

That's a great idea. Need to wire it up so they come on automatically.

[@harleymemphis9190]

although it can be $$$$ look home depot for 10" x 3 ' wide butcher block shelving as you saidMDF is no good for that Medium-density fibreboard = saw dust and glue resign great video ty

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

Please explain what the brass dowels are and where did you get them? Thanks

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

The brass dowels are dining table alignment dowels , Amazon or Lee Valley

[@ScottRails]

Here's a link to where I got them. Might need to add some springs if we want good electrical connection. amzn.to/3SI2B22

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

@@ScottRails Thank you

[@JohnHill-qo3hb]

Dave, details on the cork sheets please...

[@ScottRails]

Home Depot. Order online, pick up in store after 3 days. About 50 Dollars.

[@elleryparsons2433]

Gotta Remember you are The Biggest Crittic of That Layout.

[@erichelm4339]

It needs a 30mm hole.

[@peterwebster3076]

looking a bit special that dave

[@ValGueguin]

You used the wrong hinge. There is a whole bunch of different cabinet hinges. There is definitely one that would fit your bridge without cutting notches out.

[@ScottRails]

I should have mounted them closer to the edge. They will work fine on the next version, trust me.