Building a ZEST hive

[@peterbustin3662]

I've been meaning to have a go with one of these for a couple of years. This video and podcast has prompted me into action. I couldn't obtain the 600 blocks locally so I used 440 blocks, which Bill Summers takes into account in one of his design PDFs. Like yourself I wasn't happy leaving it all dry jointed so I have used waterproof rapid setting cement, very thinly, and will use the same to put a skim over the outside of the blocks. It is a lot more solid now. Another hive to have a play around with, roll on next year when I shall shook swarm a colony into it.

[@janemorrow6672]

Hi Phil, I built one similar to this directly on. The ground with an open bottom like your pagoda hive. It’s working very well and I harvested my first honey this week.

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

Good to hear that, Jane. I hope more people will experiment with variations on this idea.

[@JWest2k]

Phil, thanks for posting this video of your new build. Something new to consider besides the horizontal Langstroth. I'm interested in seeing the final design that you come up with especially related to securing the blocks together and ventilation.

[@gordonwybo898]

Just use construction adhesive for the block and for the wood to block issue. Inexpensive and easy to use as well as very strong!!

[@laziacoff503]

Beautiful.

[@samsungtv4u]

Where do you find frames like this??

[@fazalsubhan4563]

Beautiful and nice

[@barrywest3758]

Phil, over here in Alabama I use the White Flexseal spray paint. It's a rubbery mixture and it reflects heat on my tops that are covered in aluminium. It would work on the bricks too for future builds. Maybe black on the sides and to a point just under the wooden frame. To stick them in place maybe propolis mixture. Or leave it to the bees to seal them up on the inside and once they've done that you seal the joints on the outside. However, do you feed your bees? I would give it some thought on the top cover to make room for a couple of feeders inside. Oh well, just a thought or two for you to kick around. Great video and good luck! Keep us updated, I may make a running row of Queen Castles this way since I don't move my old ones around at all.

[@thehiveandthehoneybee9547]

the inventer says this kills 100% mites is that true? please talk mroe about these ind if its true or a lie. thanks we get dooped by so many keepers vidds.

[@billiamc1969]

It's a Layens hybrid...why plastic frames? What's the excluder for?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

Only in the sense that all deep hives are similar to the Layens design. The frames were originally bamboo, as the hive was designed with developing countries in mind, but Bill decided to use plastic frames because they are easy to use and can be made to exact dimensions. You know what a queen excluder is for: the clue is in the name.

[@guangyizhu5232]

silicone for the gaps, air and water tight potentially, a thin bead set back a little from the outer edge is all you need, adds a lot of rigidity to the structure, 1 tube will probably do 2 of these hives if done thoroughly, and extremely easy to dismantle

[@benjamindejonge3624]

Any update yet please

[@ScouseJack]

Phil if you're concerned about holding it together a wooden frame works. For weatherproofing a coat of pebbledash would be great... and of course the best insulated roof is a thatched one ;-p

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

I have screwed the wooden frame directly to the blocks, which has stabilized the structure to some extent. I will also be "glueing" it together with a sealant of some sort. Another video coming once I have the roof built.

[@ScouseJack]

@@BarefootBeekeeper Take it further and you could make my "Mock Tudor Zest Hive" ;-p Yes it's taking it to the absurd but nothing succeeds like excess these days and being the latest thing to talk about lol.

[@NoDigNorm]

Perhaps use a 'Frame Sealant' to bond the blocks.

[@chadjones4255]

A narrow bead of Gorilla glue to hold the blocks together should be adequate. The bees quickly seal any remaining air leaks.

[@tawakerakarawa1064]

we could try out fully threaded 5mm x 80mm bolts, nuts and washers going all the way from the timber to the bottom of the hive to help gravity?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

If you think it's worth the effort! I find gravity pretty effective.

[@darrenmoney4130]

Do you still use the Zest hive? Looks like you have moved on. Did the Zest hive not perform well?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

I set it up last year and populated it in the Spring, with two colonies, either side of a central divider. They seem to be doing well and have built combs without benefit of foundation on the plastic frames. Both colonies have stored a decent amount of honey.

[@darrenmoney4130]

@@BarefootBeekeeper Can you do an update video?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

@@darrenmoney4130 I will do one soon.

[@outlookaccount4625]

@@BarefootBeekeeper Did you ever do a follow up video?

[@AdrianGarcia-rk7wx]

😅​@@BarefootBeekeeper

[@josephwoodall832]

Very cool looks like a layens hive

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

Similar idea: deep frames, well insulated.

[@roystheboy]

Would this type of hive that a beginner could do

[@muratgokirmak6132]

Perfect i love it .. but it need bottom air ventilation...bees producer Co2 moisture it's heavy than O2.. winter time fungis like co2 moisture and bees easily ill..

[@PaulYoulten]

Hi Phil. Have you got bees in your Zest Hive yet?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

I just put a colony in one side of it yesterday.

[@PaulYoulten]

@@BarefootBeekeeper That's excellent news! I look forward to your next update.

[@PaulYoulten]

Did you put an eco-floor into the Zest Hive?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

@@PaulYoulten no. I stayed with the designer's specifications, pretty much. I want to give it a fair trial before making any mods.

[@PaulYoulten]

Yes, that is a good idea.

[@apisceranabeekeepinginbagh775]

What is the adventages of zest hive

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

It's big...

[@frankmarshall5977]

Phil, I found the blocks here in the US. They are called Autoclaved Aerated Concrete. A company called Aercon in Florida is the only manufacturer in the US. You can only buy them by the Pallet which holds 120 blocks and weighs 2600 lbs. $318 per pallet but shipping costs are prohibitive to the west coast. It seems like using this material in the US is impractical. do you or anyone reading here have any ideas? Do you think an insulated foam brick look alike might work? I worry that it will not absorb moisture in the inside like these bricks apparently do.

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

Sorry. Frank - I think you will have to take local advice on this. Maybe a builder would know where to find something suitable? Or you could make your own "papercrete" (search on KZbin - it really is a thing!)

[@broxmouth]

There is a whole DIY community of people in America who manufacture AIRCRETE using a foam generator to mix foam into liquid cement. Seems to be extremely cheap and effective at making everything from blocks, to panels to entire housing domes. See here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXyrdp1pYrCjfs0&frags=pl%2Cwn

[@jmasters1905]

You could try to mix lightweight concrete yourself with perlite or vermiculite and make your own moulds for pouring. Have a look at the "About Beegin" website from South Africa.

[@frankmarshall5977]

James, thanks very much. I did check out Beegin and found it really interesting. They wound up using 7parts concrete to 2 parts perlite for a light weight concrete. this looks very feasible to make the equivalent of the Autoclaved Aerated Concrete blocks. If its light enough I could try making the blocks a little bigger so I would not need 25 of them. I am going to do some experimental molds and see what I get. Frank

[@frankmarshall5977]

Tony Robinson I decided to build my own 14 frame Layens hive using 2inch styrofoam insulation skinned with wood rather than doing the zest hive.

[@eliallore5506]

What kind of frames are these? I have never seen them before. Who sells them?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

They were designed and commissioned by William Summers for his hive design.

[@eliallore5506]

@@BarefootBeekeeper So there is no place to purchase those frames?

[@PaulReich321]

@@eliallore5506 you can get them from the zest hive website

[@chadjones4255]

A mini paint-roller should make application of wax a quick job.

[@gillianhorrocks1205]

Are you using non-insulating concrete bricks on the upper courses?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

No, they are just a different brand.

[@broxmouth]

There is a whole DIY community of people who manufacture AIRCRETE using a foam generator to mix foam into liquid cement. Seems to be extremely cheap and effective at making everything from blocks, to panels to entire housing domes. See here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXyrdp1pYrCjfs0&frags=pl%2Cwn

[@benjamindejonge3624]

What about the tray

[@kenthompson6539]

Bees naturally turn their hive into a condenser and that is how they remove moisture from the nectar. Try hanging your washing on the frames and see how often you would have to change he air in the hive to take out the moisture especially if the air going in is Laden's with moisture!!!!!!!!!

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

I am well aware of that, having read Ed H Clarke's book some years ago.

[@beverleysmith3401]

What did you finally use as a sealant? I've just constructed a hive from 440 blocks and there are a few small gaps due to the blocks not being exactly uniform in shape and size. Hubby suggested sand and cement, but I'd rather leave the blocks so that they will dismantle if necessary, and I think that even a small amount of cement would rip the blocks as they are so fragile. I'm worried about the possible toxicity of other fillers. So, to fill or not to fill, and if so, what to use? Is a bit of ventilation a bad thing?

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

I used a water based external filler.

[@beverleysmith3401]

Many thanks. I've got some all purpose Polyfilla on hand. I'll just point the cracks from the outside and it won't be in much contact with the bees.

[@sheilamclaughlin963]

No b eye space between the frames and the blocks

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

Yes, there is a 7-8mm gap.

[@tawakerakarawa1064]

sorry, 50mm x 80cm.

[@tawakerakarawa1064]

sorry again! 5mm x 80cm..