Building Deck Beams | Ch 5 E 16

[@kevinmcneill468]

For "not a boat builder" you're doing pretty good!

[@WaywardLifeSailing]

Haha thank you!

[@nocontent4097]

So refreshing to see a young bloke just getting it done, the honesty of “I’m not a boat builder” and “minimal amount of math” made me laugh 🤣 Yes there are easier ways to make the beams from your templates, but they’re made now😆 and just for the record…. “Eyeballing it” is probably one of the best skill sets that any builder can have. Enjoyed watching that episode Logan, good stuff mate😉

[@WaywardLifeSailing]

Thanks for the praise. Definitely interested in learning new ways to do things! We'll be waiting for that on Facebook :)

[@davidbamford4721]

When welding the flange to the deck beam, I would have suggested Making your first tack on the mid/line and then working toward the ends.

[@WaywardLifeSailing]

Yeah that’s a good call for sure. Much easier to stop things from shifting that way!

[@h.rutten2187]

Here a great example from a Dutch guy that bought an old Dutch build model called a Scheldeschouw with a steel box keel and build it so it was very economical to build and especially to maintain. He bought an oversized modern mast tomaten a shorter mast with tapered boom out of it and his own reversed self steering wind vane to have no ropes in the cockpit and build a small doghouse pilot house to sit and steer from with a solid aluminum door. He welded on specific stainless steel parts to bring down the maintenance on having to paint shaving and rubbing parts. And he build the fryer oil engine set up. I believe he heats it up in a wrapped around copper pipe, wrapped around the exhaust after a diesel start to make the fryer oil more fluid. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6Ksf3uMmK2ceNE You’ll find part 2 and 3 in your own.

[@h.rutten2187]

If you have the budget for it get it all sandblasted and treat it straight away against flash rust compatible with a good epoxy primer and top coat. To secure a good clean grease and rust free base is when maintained good for 20 to 25 maybe up to 30 years if you keep up with occasional damage and extra paintwork, adding some stainless rub rails and round bar as a drip edge to soften any sharp corners and edges like the bottom of the doorway going into the cockpit for instance could be one of these places you could protect from rust when wearing out from paint all the time. I’ll add an 3 series interview with a Dutch steel sailboat owner and he’ll show you all the improvements he made and how he did them on a budget, the same with an episode of “emerald steel” they’re an older couple but they sandblast and epoxy their hull on a budget within a week in the yard. The Dutch guy as well would collect epoxy paint leftovers from other boat yard projects and mix them into one color or use different colors to keep it all low costs. He even has a engine that he starts on diesel to run it on simply cloth filtered fryer oil he collects for free.I’ll add the links in the next comment.

[@henrygraf7860]

Fairing compound is your friend.

[@WaywardLifeSailing]

I suspect there will be a lot of it used in the next few months