Building the USS Enterprise 1701-A - 1/537 Scale: Part Two

[@lenjones782]

Hi Dan, just to let you know your video is a major asset in helping me with this build, thx so much for taking the time and effort to share. Len

[@dansmodeluniverse]

Appreciate that Len, thank you. Good luck with yours

[@Tybearius]

Micro Kristal Klear? I didn't know that was a thing that even existed.Thank you!

[@dansmodeluniverse]

wonderful for using on clear parts too (windshield to a car for example)

[@AlexFariaOliveira]

I bought this model... I thought I would have to make silicon models of certain parts and remake them in acrilic... interesting to see that the light can go throught the model... your videos will be a blue print for me, thank you so much!

[@dansmodeluniverse]

It does, light come through perfectly

[@R_T_Ralph]

I made the 350 scale a few years ago. An absolute beast, but worth the time and effort.

[@dansmodeluniverse]

I would love to do the 350 scale but its a question of where I'd put it..

[@gjhughes55]

Hi Dan, I like your step by step help videos of the lighting, It's looking good. Also thanks for the including the link to my lighting site. Can you tell me if you intend to do more videos of Star Trek and if so, what you're next model will be?

[@dansmodeluniverse]

You're very welcome Gary. I'd love to do the 1:350 scale 1701-A, but its a question of room! Definitely will to do Voyager when it becomes available in Europe. A Romulan warbird is on the cards too. But coming up next I've the Iron Maiden edition Spitfire MKII and the 1:400 scale Titanic.

[@smanchester82]

These are excellent videos, Dan! Thank you! Where do you get the plastic sprue pieces to block out the LED lights (at the deflector array and plasma assembly)? I suppose I could order some PVC plastic sheets?

[@dansmodeluniverse]

Thanks Sean. That was a small thin plastic sheet of packaging I got that I held on to as I knew it’s come in handy. I still have some of it.

[@grantfowler1068]

Thanks for the video. it will be a great resource. ive been warned regarding drooping nacelles. Do you recommend any more prevention here. I've been told to reinforce with brass bars. If you have any suggestions, I'd appreciate it

[@ammons69]

Dan, thanks for this! I plan on using this to guide me through. Can you please tell me how/where you got the nacelle piece that allows the blue LEDs to shine through. Or did you just let the LED shine through the stock kit piece?

[@dansmodeluniverse]

Thanks Howard. That is the photo-etch set from Paragrafix, www.paragrafix.biz or www.hdamodelworx.com

[@lestermatos2989]

HI, can you put a list of all the materials you used, meaning paints, lights and whatnot?

[@dansmodeluniverse]

All lnks are the description on Part 3

[@riastradh2]

How am I just finding out about this side of you now. Grade A.

[@scalemodelbuilder9510]

For the nacelle, did you but clear parts? If not, how did you get the LED to shine through that and not the rest of the plastic. Thanks

[@dansmodeluniverse]

As the plastic was moulded in white, I left it was. On the inside I masked off the area I wanted the light to shine through, then light blocked the rest of it (I always do black, then silver). On the outside, I sprayed that area clear blue. One small strip of LEDs lit it up perfectly.

[@scalemodelbuilder9510]

@@dansmodeluniverse thanks a lot. I just bought this kit so I wanted to know. Did you do the same thing for the deflector dish?

[@dansmodeluniverse]

Yes, exactly the same. Just subbed to you, looking forward to seeing your build.

[@scalemodelbuilder9510]

@@dansmodeluniverse thanks for the sub. I'll be uploading a Build of this kit. But not for a while as I have some other kits to build first. But thanks a lot

[@kevinchapman2730]

Wha do you suggest for someone who can’t solder for the lighting?

[@dansmodeluniverse]

All you need is a non-expensive iron and a spare cable to practice on, you’d get the hang of it in no time. If however you don’t want to go that route, you can get pre-soldered kits, but they’re expensive. Also, you can get LED strips with connectors so you don’t need to solder, but keep in mind these wouldn’t be designed for models. the kits I get are specifically designed for the scale kit I’m working on. Now, saying that, I’ll be starting the 1:400 scale Titanic soon and I am going to use LED strips for the portholes/windows.

[@andiolsche4576]

Hello. Did you use other parts for the deflector or is it original like the model? The blue dome on the saucer section looks like you swapped it for a different part in the video.

[@dansmodeluniverse]

I used the photoetch for the nacelles, but all other parts were out of the box.

[@kylethompson7831]

Hi, quick question, what did you use to fill in the neck of the ship? I was needing to know what brand you use. I use tamiya putty but it's so messy. Thanks

[@dansmodeluniverse]

HI Kyle, I use Vallejo putty, it comes with an applicator, which makes it much easier.

[@kylethompson7831]

@@dansmodeluniverse thanks very much for the reply. Great ship build btw.

[@brianmorrison4330]

What voltage us your power source?

[@dansmodeluniverse]

@@brianmorrison4330 9v battery. Works great for me as it’s only on for photos etc. You could look at mains if you wanted to have it on more often.

[@thecaptain2521]

Looking awesome!! It's really gonna be nice!!

[@dansmodeluniverse]

Cheers, yes happy with it so far. Just now looking at what tone/contrast I want the aztecing. the more subtle the better.

[@grantfowler1068]

Thanks for the video. it will be a great resource. ive been warned regarding drooping nacelles. Do you recommend any more prevention here. I've been told to reinforce with brass bars. If you have any suggestions, I'd appreciate it

[@dansmodeluniverse]

Epoxy Grant. Let it set and you could throw it against the wall and they wont budge ... well they would but you know what I mean :)