GT40 Kit Car Build - Ep 29 - Gauge Install

[@darrenanderson4436]

I would place the temp gauge next the speedo so that its always in straight ahead view and oil pressure to other side of speedo same reason, just a thought. always enjoy watching it all come together.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks Darren, that's a good idea.

[@jonart9160]

If it were my build Dan, I would rotate the volts, water and oil gauges so that all the needles point up at operating temps and pressures. That way if any needle is off center you know at a glance that something is wrong.

[@BuiltbyDan]

That's a great idea! Never thought of that, might see how that looks, cheers!

[@ProfessorOzone]

@@BuiltbyDan Yeah, that's how they were done in the race car. Pretty common actually.

[@michaeltaylor4419]

Nice job... enjoy the process. You're living the dream my friend.

[@philwoods2534]

Nice progress Dan, I would go for the water and oil pressure gauges either side of the Rev counter - Fuel wont go down that rapidly, but your eyes will more likely catch movement directly infront of any impending disaster in the engine department in your direct line of sight....

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the suggestion, that makes sense.

[@ronriley952]

Thanks for bringing us along on the build. Your patience and attention to detail are incredible.

[@edendevon8454]

hi Dan as always your approach and attention to detail is amazing, its great to see the dashboard coming together .cheers.

[@billweston6579]

Looking great Dan. Gauges usually go in order of importance. Water temp and oil pressure, oil temp then voltage and fuel guages. Pity you can’t fit the tach right in front, just for that race car look. But looking excellent.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks Bill, sounds like a sensible approach to sorting the gauges. The tach may just find its way into the centre in the future.

[@craigfiles7067]

The pimple on the gauges area of the dash is so you can drill a pilot hole from the back you can than use the correct size hole saw

[@mbshaw1]

Hi Dan, when the car is finished there will be a time when you want to remove the dash for some reason, believe me there will be reasons. Extend you wiring harnesses to a point that is easy to access somewhere forward of the windscreen and use ECU type connectors. I currently have thirteen connectors ranging from 4 pin to 12 pin, it's a mod I need to do and very much wish I had done when it would have been easier. Regards.

[@Willsy161z]

I know this video is a few weeks old, but I trick I learnt building a cobra in a shop I worked in, if you need to put a template somewhere and hold it. Use some contact adhesive, low tack works best but if it's getting cutout/you don't care about the template once it's in place. Upholstery strength will work too, it's cheap as brush on, one dab on the template, one dab in the part, line it up while it's semi dry and let it set. Hope this helps.

[@Willsy161z]

Also, centre punch, either an auto one or a spring punch, one that doesn't require a hammer. Centre punch anything that has to be drilled ever.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the tip!

[@kululv]

great job! congratulation of the fitment of the dash in particular! I would definitely hide the ignition key. That is not period correct and would also help with theft.

[@Builtbypete]

You have to love proper old school analogue gauges. Just can beat them!!

[@suecobandito8954]

Good video. One can never have enough gauges and toggle switches. Definitely do the pus-button starter-easy just move the hot from the keyway to the button (but you knew that). Yes, dry-driving is highly recommended. Making engines noises (to yourself), adds to the immersion...Gauge clamps hold themselves-no glue because you're going to take out and put back a few times. Looks like your dash will stand on its own-otherwise make a buck so you can wire it up, test it and fiddle some on the bench using a 12v source. I built a Cobra before the internet. Nowadays it's much better.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the feedback/suggestions!

[@chownc]

Keep them coming, Dan! Amazing progress this year

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thank you! Much appreciated.

[@martinlira1494]

Dan, move the Tach to the center, that gauge is more important to see as you drive vs the speedo. That you you don't need to turn your head to the left as you drive. I know you said its illegal, but you want to watch your tach vs speedo so you do over rev the motor and your head is pointed straight ahead.

[@BuiltbyDan]

I'll probably look at that once the car is engineered and registered.

[@TheVirtualWatcher]

Oh come on! You look out of the windscreen and listen to the engine ...

[@troyd-motorsport9933]

Looking great! Another option for the switches (although more modern) is to use an 8 switch panel such as the (AUXBEAM 8-Gang AR-800 Multifunction RGB Switch Panel With bluetooth Control) there's a few different ones if you have a google search. Least then you could mount it below the dash out of the way.

[@kaindub]

I assume you are going to road register the car. To meet ADR the ignition switch has to operate a steering column lock. If you have Not done yet, it maybe worthwhile to talk to your certifier to make sure you build a raod registerable car

[@BuiltbyDan]

Yes, I have an electronic steering lock, I just removed it when I loosened off the steering column for the dash fitment.

[@JoelKSLC]

Dan, the build is looking great, Nice trick to find the center of the holes. Simple and effective. I’m going to do the same thing for the head lights, tail lights, and AC evens on my build. Thanks!

[@BuiltbyDan]

Was scratching my head for a while trying to work out how best to do it, but it worked great!

[@georgedreisch2662]

A suggestion, when using a hole saw in softer material, with a pre-drilled hole. Replace the drill bit in the hole saw with the appropriate sized piece of bar stock. If possible, run the hole saw to approximately 2/3 depth / material thickness, and finish the through cut from the reverse side, to minimize break out. I would assume that switches and indicator lights would be aircraft / mil spec pieces of that era. Maybe sourced via a home built aircraft supplier? Another thought is to include a panel incorporating aircraft type circuit breakers, in place of a fuse box? Thanks for sharing. Another great video in your series. Cheers.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks George. I'll probably still run standard fuses, but looking at more period correct switches now, an whether I change some of the dials/knobs to switches as well. Thanks for the tip on the hole saws!

[@bsenna0333]

Nice car Dan... this is my dream 😭🤧

[@booahanyway]

Those gauges look like Speedhut, good stuff. Just in case you didn't know, Speedhut will build your gauge face with images or text. Instead of Pace, you could get Built by Dan on the faces. They usually have sales at different times during the year and their service is great.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Yes, they are Speedhut, I might look to see if I can purchase replacement gauge faces.

[@rudyyarbrough5122]

I would definitely go with the tach at the center instead of the speedo. You will be shifting by rpm and to look over to the left will be dangerous and illogical. It is a nice looking dash. BTW, I love your new name for a saw horse to calling it a carpenter horse!

[@johnmcgovern9511]

The dash would look good in a carbon wrap.

[@JonLupen]

Looking good on the gauge clusters! I like that you put the two fuel gauges either side of the speedo, because symmetry, and that oil and temps are both grouped. Also, your lungs thank you for using PPE on cutting fiberglass, good on ya👍Have you considered sourcing a pair of stalks from a normal car for headlight and indicator control?

[@BuiltbyDan]

I'm pretty set on maintaining a toggle switch for the indicators so haven't looked at indicator/headlight stalk options.

[@cossied01]

I moved my BMW stop start to the centre consol near shifter if you put the key there as well saves leaning to the dash every time to start it .

[@jusDau]

Sometimes I tune in just to see whats going on with the hair, love ya work m8.

[@BuiltbyDan]

😂

[@andrewziemann6996]

My personal thoughts on your switch problem, convert them all to toggles like in the newer version of the Ford GT. Even the original one had toggles and not the pots like they supplied you with. It might mean a lot more looking around to find the ones that you want or that would fit the build, but in the end might complete the overall look better than the ones you have.

[@suparoo100]

Also, if you're considering better switches, personally I would swap those gauges for Smith gauges, proven reliability, I've never heard of those gauges you have there, as always you're doing an awesome job with what you have to work with 👍👌

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Andrew, I've been looking at a number of options, including ditching the knobs for switches, will see what will look best and fit nicely across the dash.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Ian, I've seen the Smiths gauges, they look great! The gauges I was supplied in the kit are Speed Hut with the kit manufacturers logo custom printed on them - I might look to purchase new gauge faces as a minimum.

[@harryhellerman474]

Looks good!

[@Dany-oj2jv]

great built bro i like it, i'm here since the begining.. thumb's up ;-)

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks mate, appreciate the support!

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Pretty

[@kennethcroll6972]

11.05 you must have been nerves drilling the hole with darth vader watching over your shoulder LOL, could hear you breathing thougth the masks Dan :} looking good

[@BuiltbyDan]

😂

[@GerardBendotti]

The mask was a good idea 👍

[@MyBlueZed]

You are probably up to date with the regulations but I’m sure I’ve seen a few GT40s on Carsales with the tachometer in front and the speedo to the left.

[@BuiltbyDan]

They may have had a 'relaxed' engineer, or switched them around later. Some regulations can change from state to state as well.

[@markgiles8527]

Having to physically flick a switch for left and right indication? Will you have to then flick the switch to turn the indicator off as well? That’ll get old real quick, not to mention dangerous.

[@rayseal9157]

Can't be a built by Dan vid.. It normal goes. Gee guys how do I fix this kit car stuff up hhaaa lookin good

[@BuiltbyDan]

It's definitely nice when things just fall into place as they should!

[@ro63rto]

Before deciding where the important warning lights will go, at least fit the steering wheel and seat so you can check if they will be visible and not blocked by the rim of the wheel. Do the same with the gauges.

[@David_in_Thailand]

I had a thought that spare dash area to the right of the steering column where you talked about putting the push button start might be a great spot to put a rear view camera screen? Not a traditional feature though.

[@rayclark44]

Hi Dan, great work as usual. I would personally check out the quality of the switches you decide to go with as sadly from my experience a lot of the available stuff is inferior to the 60s & 70s original. If it's still possible to perches "genuine" new old stock in your country it could prove to be the way forward & be time well spent. Keep up the good careful work sir 👍🇬🇧🍀

[@daveglover6115]

Thank you, great progress, though I am a bit confused why you are needing two fuel gauges if you are only using one fuel pump, a balance pipe between the two tanks and a manual shut valve. If the valve is open, then the two gauges are going to read the same. A twin tanks system only needs one gauge surely and no valve either?

[@BuiltbyDan]

I couldn't work that one out myself either... that's just what they supplied with the kit.

[@daveglover6115]

@@BuiltbyDanI would run open tanks and one gauge, one sender. Speedo in the front for road use, will save you some speeding fines probably...!

[@ProfessorOzone]

Don't mount the key at the same height as the gauges. Any extra keys will drag on the dashboard below, make noise and mess things up.

[@BuiltbyDan]

That has crossed my mind as well... I'll get my switches sorted and then decide on a final layout.

[@jeffusher4854]

Dash looks great but I’m pretty sure those indicators wouldn’t be roadworthy. Think they have to be canceled out by the steering column not manually switched

[@lanceboyle4255]

I’d go with a series of toggles like the original. A frogeye Sprite indicator switch would look better than the one from the kit. Could you hide the hazard switch under a panel on the tunnel? Don’t know what space you have there.

[@graham6229]

I agree. That toggle for blinkers is just fine

[@johnraisbeck9756]

Look at aviation switches. That was the original source anyway!

[@davidstewart9512]

very good viedos dan keep them coming have you looked at getting a set of streering colom storks as theymay give you a better opion

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks David. I've not looked at stalk option for indicators. Think I'll go with the 3 position switch, I just want something that looks nicer.

[@3cardbill]

Dan Where are you located? I’m in Minden Nevada Do you think it is better to do starter kit first? At least I can see what tools are going be needed. Buying packages separately could get expensive for shipping. I’m 80 years old and just need something to keep busy. Your doing excellent videos Bill

[@graham6229]

Australia. Melbourne I think

[@GerardBendotti]

@@graham6229 driver on right-hand side of the car. 👍

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Bill, I'm in Melbourne Australia. I purchased the entire kit up front - its a lot of parts, but I wanted to know I had it all and not have to wait for the next stage to arrive. Was also trying to avoid any significant price rises over time.

[@jimbobgreasemonkey]

Excellent Video. Where can I get a "Built by Dan" t-shirt..???

[@BuiltbyDan]

I've been trying to get merch sorted for some time. Looking to have something set up early in the new year! 👍

[@graham6229]

Porsche cars have the rev counter right in front of the driver ( its a long held feature of those cars ) and the Australian authorities allow that. So why not for your car ? Speedo to the left would be great.

[@MyBlueZed]

But the speedometer is right next to the tachometer. I think Dan is concerned because reading the far left instrument will require a head turn.

[@booahanyway]

To meet regs the speedo needs to be within a certain degree of view from the seating position. The GT40 is just close to the limit. Better to do as Dan is doing and change later after its registered

[@BuiltbyDan]

Spot on booahanyway

[@brianwestmoreland9852]

Sorry to chime in late, researching a GT 40 project. Isn't obvious to me, which kit is Dan building. Appreciate any info.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Brian, the kit is from Absolute Pace in Queensland Australia. There's a link to their website in the video description.

[@brianwestmoreland9852]

@@BuiltbyDan Thanks Dan, appreciate it. I'll get into their product. Catching up on your videos. I learn by 'seeing' not reading, haha, so your library is a great resource.

[@REDLINEBECKONZ]

Looks great budd, maybe placing the rpm tach right in front of you might be a better location. What engine management are you going to run?

[@squeaksvids5886]

He did mention that the speedo has to be in front of him to meet Australian law.

[@REDLINEBECKONZ]

@@squeaksvids5886 riiiight... Should make it a quick change deal for the track lol

[@BuiltbyDan]

I'll be running the standard Ford Performance PCM.

[@riven3117]

I have already seen many videos of you but there are some things I would like to ask you, where are you from? and what do you work? thanks for the videos

[@BuiltbyDan]

I'm from Melbourne, Australia, and I work in the building/construction industry.

[@TheVirtualWatcher]

Have you thought about where the gauge sensors are going to be on the engine?

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Peter, not yet, been looking at a couple other manufacturers build manuals to get some ideas on what they suggest.

[@GerardBendotti]

No self cancelling with that indicator switch?

[@BuiltbyDan]

Nope.

[@C.Fecteau-AU-MJ13]

The second I got that thing registered, my tacho and speedo would be swapped back to their correct, illegal locations. Actually, I say that, but I bet I'd be too lazy and keen to drive it to bother. The man would have won.

[@BuiltbyDan]

That has crossed my mind...

[@mayanksoni543]

how much time it takes to fully build

[@BuiltbyDan]

I'll let you know when I finish! Will largely depend on skill level as well.

[@mayanksoni543]

from where you source your parts ?

[@BuiltbyDan]

I purchased a complete kit from the manufacturer Absolute Pace, here in Australia, so I haven't really had to source any/many parts myself other than engine and transaxle.

[@jcr6548]

Do you fit in the car with a helmet on?

[@BuiltbyDan]

I fit in the car (without helmet) currently, making an allowance for upholstery, but think it might be a bit tight with helmet once seats are trimmed, won't know for sure until I get to that stage. Not a huge concern if I can't, building it predominantly as a street car, but would be nice to do the odd track day.

[@HemiDartGT]

WoW, your car will do 300Mph? ;-) Just Kidding....

[@BuiltbyDan]

It probably won't even hit 300km/h, but it still looks cool! haha

[@massimomm4578]

Its the wrong side ! It has to be installed on left side !

[@jcr6548]

Maybe some inspiration: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sH-6o3uajtxngKc

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for sharing! I've watched that video a few times!