GT40 Kit Car Build - Ep 24 - Air Conditioning Install

[@spaceman4782]

Gotta stay cool when you're flying down the mulsanne straight at 200+ mph!!

[@stephenrichardson6105]

It was nice of them to show you pictures of the air con unit fitted and the throttle in the manual but no picture of them both together fitted. Keep up the good work 👍 think my head would be done in by now

[@craighancock2562]

I would have flipped the right angle brackets for the condenser so they are pointing inward, would give you another inch over to the left.

[@tedheierman1181]

Oh my gosh, that Vintage air kit uses a trailer wiring connector! 41:54 in the video I'm really amazed! I thought their kits were much higher quality.

[@petejones961]

Hi Dan, nice build. If you put a washer behind the pop rivets on you ac unit it will provide much better grip to the plastic.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the suggestion Pete, never seen that done before but it makes sense!

[@iansyme3535]

Seems such an obvious way to do this job. I did something similar on an Audi A1 rear light cluster.

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Yep, it's going to look smashing

[@rustom1981]

This amazing, the amount of detail you put in this car is really amazing ( you working by yourself 🙌🏼🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 ) best of luck 🤞🏼

[@MostynDuVal]

Dan… Couple of points… I didn’t notice a ‘bead’ on the air con tee piece to lock the silicon pipe in place when the clamps are tightened…. My second point is, if you hard fix the two accelerator peddles together with a bar, I think because the two peddles will have different ‘travel’ motions, the bar connector (as you described in the video) might not work as there will be no 'play' to allow for differential movement wrt to two [separate] turning arcs, so and there will be stress on both pedal fixing points… Something to consider as a solution could be to put a ‘U’ bracket on the front accelerator pedal to push directly onto the front area of the rear arm. This way both peddles will slide properly on one another thereby providing direct travel transfer without any linkage. the 'U' shape to ensure the two pedals always are in the correct [vertically aligned] position.

[@Cubanb407]

You’re crushing it keep it up

[@Builtbypete]

Great progress Dan. I always look for a new episode.

[@JonLupen]

A lengthy episode with a lot of good progress, love to see it! Nice work on the radiator tubing symmetry 👍Here I was all ready to mention the slots on the evaporator unit brackets, but you noticed them too, so good on you! lol

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks Jon, definitely a lengthy one, but wanted to keep it all in one episode. Regarding the brackets, it's funny how sometimes the most obvious solution is right in front of you, but you can't always see it. Bit of frustration can often cloud your ability to see these things in the moment!

[@JonLupen]

@@BuiltbyDan It's like that sometimes. lol And you'll never hear me complaining about longer episodes, it's all good!

[@dannymccarty344]

Man, that car is soooo cool! That's may favorite car. My brother has a cool Mustang that you'd like. It's shiny black with no chrome stuff. He put a jet engine in it last spring, and the chicks really dig him.

[@jamesdellaneve9005]

Hi Dan, I’ve got my fuel tanks in, the steering system, the shift and parking brake. I am ready to fit and install the drivetrain. This will complete the fuel system, the starter electrics, clutch slave and coolant system. I am guessing a month of weekends. Keep on keeping!

[@BuiltbyDan]

Great to hear you are making some good progress on your build James! I'm having issues with my park brake... supplied cables are too short! Waiting for a mounting bracket for gear shifter as well to mount on side of the sill.

[@jamesdellaneve9005]

@@BuiltbyDan My parking brake was a complete hassle. Since it’s left hand drive, the parking brake and shift assembly are on the center tunnel. First, the shift assay housing is 3” wide and the tunnel extrusion is only 2”. It looks like Frankenstein. So, I customized the hand brake brackets so that it’s lower than the shifter. It won’t hit my arm when driving. I am having a custom sheet metal tunnel to cover this stuff so that it looks like a factory design.

[@grahamewart2364]

I'd look at mounting the accelerator pedal to the underside of the dash, directly above the pedal mount and run a link vertically to it..... Have a look into where you link to the factory pedal, it can change the ratio of the movement from pedal to TPS and you can end up with an over- or under-responsive pedal feel.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the advice Graham. Will definitely keep that in mind.

[@richardpetty6104]

Hi Dan, With the pedals in my Cobra build I used Wilwood brake and clutch pedals and made a bracket so I could use the complete fly by wire pedal assembly as is for the accelerator.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Richard, thanks for sharing your solution! I'll be sure to add that to the list of possible options.

[@andyMutale]

new build series?, time to binge

[@outlawflyer7868]

Man, I can't wait till I am dead when I can have my GT40...

[@Meyersmanx1]

Dan, loving this build mate. Great work.

[@KNABuilds]

One thing to think about if you somehow physically attach the Wilwood pedal to the Ford one, make sure your attachments are the same distance from their respective pivot points or your TPS will be reading a different position than your throttle body will be seeing. Not sure if that's something you can tune in the computer or not, though.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the tip Ken. Will look into that and speak to my tuner.

[@rayseal9157]

I know that feeling. What you doing dad??? Well done spike. Hhaa

[@DoktorHalloween]

Take apart the pedal and see if you can harvest/use the electronic internals.

[@gsh3159]

If the wilwood pedal assembly has a return spring on the accelerator pedal you might be able to disassemble the e-pedal and just use the internals and run off the bell crank. You dont need both the pedal box and e-pedal to have springs. Or I wouldn't think you should.

[@MyBlueZed]

Boxer dog appears at 3:25 !! ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🐕

[@BuiltbyDan]

He got air time in a few clips, and a feature on the thumbnail this episode! 😁

[@rayurlich]

Go you good thing! 😊💥👊🏼

[@Kerry70]

Could you just use the brake and clutch pedal from the Wildwood cluster and mount the electronic accelerator pedal directly on the firewall, possibly with a spacer behind it so it mounts smoothly on the firewall bracket?

[@BuiltbyDan]

Sorry, mate must have missed this comment! I thought about that, but keen to keep all the pedals the same both for aesthetics and operation. i.e. keep them all pivoting from the floor, rather than 2 from floor and one from above (accelerator pedal), as I don't think the accelerator will fit to have it pivot at the floor.

[@rayseal9157]

Maybe some heat mat so the radiator pipes don't vibrate or heat transfer into the chassis

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Ray, I was thinking it might need something underneath to prevent rattling, that single rubber lined P clip on each tube is not likely to be enough to do the job. Hadn't considered the heat transfer though, that's a good point.

[@Ianduncanqld1]

Hello, a question: is there a reason you can’t have the wiper motor the other way around? If you had the motor of the wiper motor over the steering column you’d be able to move the evaporator further up the dash (which would also make connecting the hoses at the back a bit easier?). Also I think there are some brackets in the pack which connect to the back of the evaporator to support the back (they look like long black L’s)

[@broncosager3496]

Are the accelerator pedals sealed? I’d be tempted to try and take it apart.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Looks like the housing has a series of clips holding it together, might look into removing the housing to see if the sensor could be used without it.

[@dave5833]

Dan Thank You how long did it take you to get to 20K subscriber’s ❤❤❤❤❤ Can’t wait to see you tooling down the road.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Dave, took me about 12 months to hit 20k subs!

[@Steviegtr52]

Hi Dan fantastic build. Not sure if you have seen the video of which i will put a link for you. It's of Holman Moody in the states. They have the last genuine GT40's. They are building them form genuine parts from the 60's , shipped from the UK. 1 is going to Peru i believe for $1000,000. I must admit though yours looks just as good & probably lighter. Another thing is, the throttle sensor. What is it's voltage. 2 wire or more. I know some are just 0-5volt output. If yours is one like that or similar then isn't there one that is just the sensor with a lever arm that you could fit anywhere & link up. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a57blnptfrKbd6M . Regards. Steve.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Steve, yes I've watched a few videos of those final original GT40s. Very interesting to see the original components and how they compare to the modern replicas! Thanks for the suggestion on the throttle. Honestly not sure if there is a need to use a factory throttle pedal or not, but most builds seem to adopt it in some way/shape/form. Will look into that option, could make life a lot easier!

[@Notasheepleandneverwillbe]

You could always just ditch the drive by wire and go with a traditional cable driven throttle . That might be easier than modifying everything to make the drive-by wire work .

[@peterburdett8131]

Hey Dan not fun. On the Factory 5 instructions for a Cobra with Coyote they cut off the entire side of the electronic accelerator with 1 mount. Might give you more wriggle room??

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Peter, that's good to know! Thanks. Might help as long as I can mount directly to the front wall of the footwell.

[@rudyyarbrough5122]

Have you looked at reversing the electronic accelerator pedal so that the mount is at the bottom? That seems like it would solve the space issue.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Rudy, I was actually thinking as I was editting it if there was a way to lower the bellcrank setup so the accelerator pedal could sit lower, under the evaporator unit. If I decide to mount on rear wall directly behind the main pedal box, the electronic pedal will get mounted upside down.

[@tuckerbunch9553]

You could locate the pedal at 90 degrees to the Wilwood pedal. Locate the Ford mount behind the clutch pedal with the pedal arm reaching to the right locating the Ford foot pad directly behind the wilwood accelerator pad. Then use a rod as you suggested to connect the pedals to transfer the motion. Rose joints at each end of the rod will absorb the small differences in each pedals arc as they swing.

[@chriswaldron2617]

If that was me doing all this Dan, my video would be full of “ahh 🤬hell, damn thing…” as I try and fit in fiddly spots, lift stuff and just keep getting hit with all your problems.

[@bobturner6516]

it looks like the slotted brackets would allow you to move the hvac unit farther to the left, are you sure that wouldn't give you room for tps sensor in it's original position?

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Bob, I'm afraid not. there is barely 25mm/1inch available to move it across, and from what I can determine I would need to move it at least 200mm/8inches to the left for the TPS to fit... or lower the evaporator a good 4 inches which would then interfere with clutch pedal and significantly reduce passenger foot room.

[@jamesdellaneve9005]

Love those flexible coolant tubes. I’ve never seen them. Where did you get those?

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day James, they were supplied with the kit, not seen them before myself. They are quite rigid which is good, takes some effort to form them, but they hold their shape well.

[@stefantrnacek1394]

If you flip the pedal sensor upside down will the ECU read it correctly.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Stefan, I would have assumed so...

[@kennethcroll6972]

Hi Dan, can the (28.03)electronic throttle position sensor be removed from the pedal, (27.43)or the one that came with the kit (33.51)and mounted to the fire wall? then using a connecting rod to the pedal assembly that's in the car? in the lactation at (34.10)with a new home made bracket?

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Kenneth, sounds very similar to the solution I'm thinking of. Not sure if the sensor can be removed from the housing, however it does appear there are only 6 clips holding the two halves of the housing together, so I might have a go at separating the housing and sensor.

[@kennethcroll6972]

@@BuiltbyDan or maybe the original TPS on its side mounted to a L bracket (home made one) on the fire wall be hide the pedal?

[@Schlipperschlopper]

Sadly Mrs. Bärbocks BABVVO law wont allow this in the next year without massive fines in Germany

[@kululv]

I still don't like the ugly corrugated hose. Besides that, I'm convinced they are very insufficient in flowing water because you lose a lot of laminar flow with this design. If you go for custom bent pipes instead you could integrate the heater bungs and eliminate 4 potential leakage points. But if you stick with this design, I would prefer to have the T pipes on the radiator side where you have more room instead of at the central tunnel.

[@andreasmeerkamp8627]

Great job on your side but quite a mess on the manufacturer's side

[@DarinGC]

Canadian gt40 seeker here. Any tips on building or buying?

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Darin, there are so many variables to consider. It really comes down to what you want and how much work you want to put into it. Building it, you have control over every option and quality of the build, buying, you are buying someone else's project, built the way they wanted it built. The chances of being able to buy exactly what you want are slim, so you will either need to compromise a little, or be prepared to put in the work to modify to meet your requirements.

[@DarinGC]

@@BuiltbyDan My dad built a factory five cobra and I just remember the amount of hours needed to finish, and its alot simpler then the gt40. How are you able to juggle work with the project? Thanks

[@BuiltbyDan]

I try to work on the GT40 every weekend, at least for one day. During the week I don't really do much on the build other than a bit of research online, or chasing parts etc.

[@georgedreisch2662]

I’m not certain, but am concerned, that while I appreciate the elegance of s-curves of the flexible radiator feed lines, there may be the possibility of the s-curves acting as a trap to coolant flow, from acceleration forces. I think simple elbows would be a better strategy.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day George, I've basically just followed the images in the build manual in terms of the layout, but I understand what you are saying. Good thing is that if it becomes an issue a can easily trim them down and adopt that approach.

[@michaelsnyder7442]

Instead of a bushing, use a stack of washers

[@BuiltbyDan]

I did consider that, as a temporary solution at least, a solid aluminium spacer would be the preference though.

[@jamesdungan6198]

If you didn't drink before you started this you soon will

[@tedheierman1181]

Why isn't there a rubber cushion at the bottom of the condenser to prevent it from rubbing on the lower contact point? I think you are missing something.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Ted, I installed a rubber grommet that the "feet" on the condenser sit in and support the bottom.

[@merakrut]

Where is he? Does anyone know?

[@stefantrnacek1394]

Sent you a email about throttle sensor.

[@rainwong001]

The piece of paper broad cannot remove 🤣

[@alecjones7299]

You’re putting an AC unit in a GT 40 what’s wrong with you.

[@Luney_0296]

God forbid that the driver and passenger can stay cool in the sweltering Australian heat lol