ORTUR Laser Master 3 Laser Engraver Review | 10W Laser Diode | Wi-Fi | Air Assist | High Speed

How does it compare to the xTool D1 Pro 20W for engraving? There are a ton of comparisons between those two products, but they all show the xTool 10W lasers. In engraving, the Ortur seems to wipe the floor with the xTool 10W, booth in speed and quality. But I haven't seen a single comparison between the Laser Master 3 10W and the D1 Pro 20W.

[@scottmorris4914]

Good video. I am still deciding. The stop positions for homing, the technology used on the LM3 is used on a lot of CNC routers.

[@Jasonmburden]

Great review - can you use the x1 tool rotary with this laser ?

[@craftystudios5417]

Can ANY of these budget lasers cut 0.5 aluminium? I'm wishing to cut 0.5 mm holes along the edge of an A4 sheet of (white painted) aluminium, to form the cover of a journal.

[@ThePsychoCJ]

Did you know that the OLM3 does not have flame detection?

[@baconsledge]

Still like my Laser Master 2. Would like the updated laser tho.

[@BusterBeagle3D]

You can buy the upgraded laser that will work with your LM2. It comes with an extra add on control board that you use in addition to the one on the LM2 and has a separate plug. It is nice to have a little more power. I used the laser module as well on my LM2 Pro and it worked great.

[@DavidBishopinc]

I have recently Purchased this machine along with the z axis lift. Do I need to change any setting inside light burn to accommodate this lift?. I have adjusted the stop pins to the correct location, but the laser is banging into these stops and grinding as if it wants to home to the original placement of the stop pins. Help me please. New user.

[@BusterBeagle3D]

Those stops should be acting as the limit switches for the machine. If you are having issues I would recommend checking out the Ortur Facebook group and see if anyone else is running into the same issue.

[@DavidBishopinc]

@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you sir. I readjusted the belts. That seemed to have fixed this issue. Limit switches are working fine in either position.

[@billd.4701]

You do a great job in explaining the product. However, I’ve watched many videos on various software and it seems very complicated regarding converting, speed and power needed. I have yet to purchase a laser engraver because of the aforementioned. I have no interest in making cut-outs but rather interested in doing select jpeg files to canvas. Your suggestion will be surely appreciated. Thanks for posting this great video.

[@BusterBeagle3D]

If you are not cutting then any machine at 5W would be fine for you. The lower the wattage the smaller the laser spot size in most cases as well which means you get a higher resolution image. You still need to run power/speed tests on anything you are working on to be able to dial in the correct settings for your material and machine. It's just something you would have to do with any laser. For most machines you can find people who have already made power/speed tests that you can just grab and use. If you are using Lightburn you can also make your own using Laser Tools > Material Test. You can also use this website to create power speed tests for Lightburn which is my preferred method. www.o2creative.co.nz/laser/lightburn_advanced_generator.php

[@billd.4701]

@@BusterBeagle3DThanks so much for the great info. I’ve decided to go with the Ortur Master 3 and Lightburn. I would rather have the extra power in the event I care to expand into other projects. Once again thanks.

[@juddwhiting4229]

You mentioned that Lightburn can be used over wifi but I can not figured out how to enable Lightburn to do that. I have use the laser explorer with wifi but its a limited software. Any thoughts to get me going with wifi and lightburn?

[@BusterBeagle3D]

Hi Judd. In Lightburn click on Devices in the bottom right corner and choose create manually. Select GRBL > Ethernet/TCP then enter in the IP address that you can find in the laser explorer settings 192.168.0.167 or something like that. Then proceed as normal. Hope this helps.

[@BusterBeagle3D]

I was told there was a bug with the firmware where it might freeze up if the code is too dense but it worked fine with the stuff I ran with it.

[@TheAwesomeSam]

you mentioned this can cut acrylic. how thick? did you have a chance to test it yet?

[@BusterBeagle3D]

The company said up to 30mm of acrylic but I didn’t have any to test.

[@geraldlamothe6091]

@@BusterBeagle3D 30mm thick!!!That's over an inch thick...That's impossible imo!!!

[@Andy.H.H.]

Did you try the mobile app through the wifi? Just wondering how well this works.

[@BusterBeagle3D]

I went through it. It’s essentially how you have to setup the Wi-Fi. It’s really limited which is why I didn’t spend to much time with it when there are far better options out there.

[@anonymous-wx5xu]

Can I just buy one of your laser engraver?

[@squidskunk]

strongly influenced by the xTool D1.

[@byronengler6185]

What are the outside dimensions?

[@BusterBeagle3D]

roughly 11x26 inches

[@doneaston6989]

The feet r out . I got mine in a package deal off amozon

[@fierceflyer5]

Makes no sense why anyone would spend this $$ on a diode laser when you can buy a co2 laser that will actually cut something for the same price or a little more. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@BusterBeagle3D]

There are a bunch of differences between diode lasers and CO2 lasers. Yes it’s true that CO2 are far superior to diode lasers at cutting but for engraving you typically can get a far finer laser spot with a diode module. Not to mention to get a CO2 at the size of this machine is a much larger investment in size and money. You also have to have a separate cooling solution and other factors. To each his own I guess.

[@snppls]

Co2 lasers are huge and heavy. The noise of the fan can be louder than a running CNC. I sold my 50w Co2 laser exactly for this reason. It’s easier to wheel a machine like this outside - quiet and light