But No Bubbles! Part 1

[@RobertTolone]

Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0

[@BaronMcCausland]

YES!!!!!! THIS is the detailed information I have been waiting for!!!! Thank you so much for doing this for us, Robert!!! If you had a powerful enough telescope and could train it on me, you would be watching me do a little jig of spastic-happiness... dancing around my computer, with a turtle in one hand, and a donut in my other hand... while singing praises in your name!!!

[@annekabrimhall1059]

I wish we could post pictures of our attempts.

[@RobertTolone]

Anneka Brimhall You can send pics to me at [e-mail]. If I can get my act together at some point I will put together a Facebook group or discord server, something like that.

[@Rocky-mds]

Thank you for the info i will try this and if it works i will send u pic and the results keep up the good work

[@greggv8]

A million points for packing tape and cardboard. I've used corrugated cardboard covered with packing tape, held together with hot glue, for years to make mold forms. I started using packing tape around 2013. Before that I used glossy cardboard because platinum cure silicone wouldn't stick to it. At some point I couldn't find glossy finished cardboard to make a form and the thought hit me that I could use packing tape. I've extolled the cheapness and versatility of packing tape, cardboard and hot glue to many people doing silicone molds and most of them continue to use things like LEGO, or L boards and clamps (I made a few sets of L boards before I started using cardboard and pressure casting the molds.) or other items that are cumbersome and give poor results. Apparently they think it just can be that simple and easy. I've been in this as a business since the late 1990's. Followed a lot of advice early on that gave poor results but over time I came up with techniques that are easy, low cost, and make good molds and castings. I mostly make reproduction parts for classic cars, including pieces that have gone onto cars shown at Hershey and other concours d'elegance shows. It all started with a need for a pair of tail light lenses for a 1953 Hudson Super Wasp... I had one good but faded lens, made a latex mold supported with fiberglass and cast new lenses with clear polyester casting resin and a ton of transparent red dye. The results were terrible but with a lot of sanding and polishing they worked. I'd grown up in a ceramics business where I learned about mold making concepts, which applied to fiberglass (I made some parts for a Mustang, still have the molds, people want the parts but don't want to pay enough to cover the materials cost) and also to silicone. Thankfully with silicone undercuts and other things not possible with plaster or fiberglass can be done.

[@Lions1977]

As someone with minimal experience making molds it's actually very helpful to see you without your tools. Just to see how you work and think.

[@RobertTolone]

Thank Bill! Glad you found the video useful.

[@YanickFM]

I'm really glad you addressed this topic. I'm new to casting things and I don't have a lot of tools yet

[@Olhamo]

A lot of us are using simple materials, and just what is on hand.

[@tiggerbiggo]

It’s amazing to me that you think you are cranky or whiny at all, it’s so wholesome seeing you work that if it weren’t for the overlay I wouldn’t even be able to tell you were annoyed in the slightest! Honestly those containers would annoy me too if i was used to working with something better ;)

[@AsainNerdfighter]

Great to see a comparison of diy techniques from a professional!

[@RobertTolone]

It was a fun challenge but it sure made me miss my tools!

[@dougsundseth6904]

There's a trick for pouring from a wide-mouthed container into something much smaller: 1) Get a rod that is longer than the container is wide (I like something about 2-3 times as long). For that container, I'd be thinking about either a piece of wire coat-hanger or a chopstick. 2) Lay the rod across the top of the container with most of the excess on the side you will be pouring from. 3) Pour. When pouring, the surface tension of the liquid will tend to adhere the stream to the surface of the rod, so the liquid will follow the rod. This can take a bit of practice, as too much or too little flow can both cause problems. 4) When you have enough out, leave the end of the rod in/over the receptacle while tilting the wide-mouthed contain back to stop the flow. 5) Allow whatever is still on the rod to flow into the smaller container, then clean the stick. I've used this for pouring paint into 15ml/0.5 oz plastic squeeze bottles without really any problems; it should work fine for resin or rubber components as well.

[@JoslinKnightSpirit]

Great little how-to beginners’ style! I really appreciated the tip on pouring the catalyst first. I haven’t worked with molding silicone yet and trying to pick up all the tips I can find before getting started. I like to bake so I’m familiar with the idea that little tips like the order of ingredients can really make a big difference in labor. Thank you!

[@f.d.6667]

These videos are a an absolute pleasure to watch... The pace, the tonality, the structure and logic show an amazing level of professionalism - not only regarding the craft but also regarding a didactic approach. Thank you for all the effort of making these outstanding videos!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for your nice comment F.D. !

[@raullo]

Sir, you are so wholesome. Remind me of my father in law. All the success in your channel, you got a fan here.

[@3dmaxtagalog77]

Im LOVE HOW excited you are in what you do

[@johnnytoronto1066]

I greatly appreciate your experience, your many many tips both little and large, and your presentation. You're like having a friendly guy next door who has pretty much all the know-how. Thanks!

[@PS-xw8kg]

I really loved this video, because I am just starting out and you used the things I have available to me. I actually purchased that exact kit yesterday before I saw your video. I don’t have all the tools and contraptions that you have in your workshop so this was a great video for me the beginner. Thanks so much!

[@wyldeparnelle955]

I cut up my failed molds all the time and us up the chunks...that stuff is too expensive. I am still a total newb but had some successes thanks to videos like yours.

[@simonepella363]

Love to see the way you work and your patience, your videos are both relaxing and informative

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching Simone!

[@karlh6692]

I made myself a few mixing paddles that mix well without drawing bubbles into the mix. They are small brass sheet squares soldered onto a hacksaw slotted round copper rod. The paddle is small enough to always stay submerged in the mix while the round shaft is all that breaks the surface and it reduces the bubbles. I find a gentle scrap of the sides is all that is needed to ensure a full mix.

[@RogerGarrett]

So it really all comes down to brushing on a print coat in order to avoid bubbles. Good to know. That's exactly what I was preparing to do with my upcoming, really important, must-not-have-bubbles, project.

[@UvThe1st]

Great vid Robert! Loved seeing you do things with more 'basic' materials. I also super hate tubs like that with the wide opening, I get it everywhere :( Hope the family is well, all the best

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Olivia. The family is going to be fine and I expect that things will be back to normal soon!

[@shoelessone]

Robert, I have been sort of busy with work stuff and sick on top, but I am meaning to email you a project just to share in the near future. But for now, I just want to say once again that your videos are absolute gold. No joke you are my favorite youtuber at this point I think. If you ever do a one day class or something down in LA or somewhere else in CA I would love to attend!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Kevin! I look forward to seeing your project.

[@CreativeKristenTaylor]

I’m so glad I found your channel and thank you for this video! This answered a lot of questions I had as a beginner wanting to dip my toes into resin molding and casting without investing in a lot of equipment just yet.

[@wolfreicherter748]

Grumpy old man Robert. I feel ya

[@rossknowles5608]

what a great idea for a video. good to see an expert dealing with craft "kits"

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Ross.

[@williammace3346]

I am an old hack at this and you are teaching me tons. 😊 thanks

[@TengizAdamashvili]

wow the trick with drowning the wasted chunks of silicone in the mold is fantastic! how have I not thought of that. Good thing I didn't throw away any of the failed molds. I have some failed 2-part molds where mold release didn't work and the 2 parts stuck together forever. I force rip them apart, and there are chunks from both parts.

[@modelleg]

The print molding technique recalls a conversation I had with the tech rep from the Smooth-on company. I was making ink stamps and asked the fellow: What does the rubber stick-to? He said it sticks to itself. Of course.

[@SilverscreenTrivia]

This guy is now my favorite person!

[@paulcrandall2534]

Great video. Very informative! At 17:58 I like the Justin Wilson homage...."I garontee"

[@RobertTolone]

Haha, you’re the first one to comment on that! I loved that guy! I’ve been saying I garontee since I was in high school.

[@paulcrandall2534]

@@RobertTolone I'm 36 and I remember watching him back when I was a kid. The guy was incredible!!!! I appreciate your videos. Thank you. Keep up the great work!!!

[@IPrint3dMinis]

Always a pleasure watching these.

[@leegregory5403]

Besides looking like Americas Mayor. Robert taught me about chunkies. Thanks Mayor Rob

[@CuriousEarthMan]

Thanks for this video! The blowing out the bubbles technique looks valuable and simple. This was full of really wise words/techniques for anyone who was listening. This is the benefit of years of your attention it strikes me. I am grateful you are sharing it so openly! I admire your professional level, and your personal opinion. Not complaining! I have so much to learn lol Thanks again!

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!

[@johnathannyc]

why is this the first time I'm hearing about the blowing technique?! All across the internet and this is the first for me. Brilliant and affordable!

[@wishcloudstudios]

I never heard it either! Probably never heard of it because it is so time consuming, and nobody wants to do it. 😂

[@johnathannyc]

Robert, how careful should you be about moisture from your breath affecting the silicone? I imagine droplets of spit could cause problems.

[@RobertTolone]

Oddly, tin-based silicone rubbers are condensation cure rubber, meaning that they actually pull moisture out of the air while curing. I have heard that extremely dry environments can inhibit the cure or at least slow it down. But then I have never heard anyone recommend adding water to the rubber to speed up the cure. But my blowing on the rubber certainly did not negatively affect the cure of this particular mold.

[@glenfisher728]

People do it all the time but generally use an airbrush .

[@design321]

Great video! I asked in your other video what you could do about bubbles if we don't have machinery, and you answered all my questions. Never would have thought about using a straw! Thank you!

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@ArcticFlies56]

I used Magic Mold a few times and I found that making the mold box out of waxed cartons makes it a breeze. I clean out the waxed carton of Half & Half or Orange Juice and cut them up and glue them back together as per my needs and they work great. Once in awhile I may even use a little Vaseline to coat the carton for extra insurance. Coated Card Board never worked for me. I even used spray release on some. They always came out good. The Exacto Blade Knife is the way to go for cutting the mold apart. Utility knives are way to wide and bulky. I enjoy your videos and I’m learning a lot as well. Thank you. Richard

[@RobertTolone]

Great tip. Thanks Richard!

[@Mokaygee]

Really great video! I would miss my setup too, if I had to leave it for an extended amount of time. It's interesting to see what you can do with you knowledge with lesser equipment though!

[@RobertTolone]

I was hoping that this demonstration would prove you don’t really need gear to successfully make molds. All it really did however was make me miss my tools!

[@williamglover5737]

I use blue painters tape to line my cardboard. Easy to get on and releases great for the materials I have used.

[@whatevericall]

Tin cure is rather forgiving, but the smell is quite strong. Cant wait to see the cast

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching. I’m looking forward to the casting as well.

[@Joxman2k]

I love the grumpiness that comes with age :) "Damb kids nowadays, with their hot glue skills! ...in my day...." :P I'm at that age too :P

[@runin1wild]

Good video! Very informational on doing a small first time project! Even on some of the comments as well. Now I have to find the next video of pouring your duck. Cause I will have a question on different types of resin strength!

[@MaxPowerCrafts]

I have a hot melt glue tip for you. Worked on hobby models and even the walls of an old apartment. A drop of denatured alcohol will wick in and help you much much easier remove hot glue. It's fantastic. Love watching the molds.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for the tip! I will give it a try.

[@captainsebastian20]

Great video, Robert. Really enjoyed it. Cure inhibition and bubbles have been my greatest enemies. A number of steps taken and 7-8 molds later and I've got it dialed without a proper vacuum chamber (I did actually build a homemade vacuum chamber with a shop vac and few other household items, but its not 100% percent effective. Would need stronger vacuum and stronger walls). Thanks for your help !

[@RobertTolone]

Hi Chris, the first vacuum chamber I ever built used a shop vac and it was a miserable failure! In this video I explain why shop vacs don’t work: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4abe4Zrfb98j9k Platinum rubbers are much more sensitive to cure inhibition than tin rubbers are. Sulfur and metals such as copper and brass are notorious for causing cure inhibition. But you never know when some bad chemical reaction will rear its ugly head. That’s why you must always test your materials to see if they are compatible.

[@karocum1082]

Love you for this tutorial video!!!!

[@boblevey]

Great video!!!

[@EstablishedLowriders]

Thanks for great at the kitchen table video, and your knowledge with mold making🙏🏼

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

[@BBDINO.official]

That’s great guide for everyone to run tests by applying the silicone rubber on each pieces it will contact with ! After all mold inhibition makes big waste 😹

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

I'm surprised that you don't travel with a small emergency supply of bees wax on you at all times. ;)

[@RobertTolone]

That is an excellent suggestion and one which I will implement immediately!

[@nathanielrobles3284]

Wow really reallt smart way of doing things! As always yiur explanations are excellent! I learned so much and you are very resourceful. Please always stay healthy too. Keep it up!

[@andrewcasey2513]

Great video. Very helpful tips for a new bee. Thank you

[@RobertTolone]

Glad it was helpful Andrew!

[@AlexanderSauerPlaysWithHeroJr]

Hi Robert , Thanks again. Its very pleasant to have your vids on while working. Right now as i watch your mold techniques and colorful comments ..hiih.. im trying to make some custom scifi looking lights for a head piece..could find what i wanted but had some latex rubber to make dip molds. ithas that nice brownbeige rubber ..and is pretty strong stuff... made a flat mold of corrugated material ( gonna fold over with LEDs in it to form corrugated tubing thats semi transparent with mesh sealed inside ..the layers uneven mostly from the latex layering..will give that faded..yellowish ..scifi..relic almost burnt out look.... but as you might be able to guess..its 20 sec application of a new layer ..and 20 min / hour dry time.. so your vids are running on my comp screen next to me... and its really nice. I guess its a man thing ,... seeing someone working ..busy...kind of makes you wanna do something too .. and really helps with the "..i dont really have to.."..that sneaks in after being stuck inside for almost a year now.... So yeah... My new happy place online...been learning more that i thought i would. Thats gonna come in real handy real soon i'd bet. Funny thing about knowing how to do something..you end up in situations where you will need it also..?!

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you find my videos useful Alexander. Thanks for watching!

[@jaquelinepaul7384]

Your fun thanks for the video and the massive downloads of information bless your rubbery little heart lol❤❤❤❤❤

[@passiveftp]

Love this video! brushing the model with the rubber is a great idea! thanks

[@kakkarotdb]

very entertaining video, it was fun to see a pro using the basic local hobby shop products I use as a hobbyist. The Amazing mold rubber is indeed very brittle, I tore my first molds because I wasn't using mold conditioner/mold release and the casts would tear chunks of the rubber out.

[@RobertTolone]

What kind of mold release do you use with Amazing Mold rubber? I bought their casting resin and I am about to begin the video about casting the duck sculpture. Wasn’t planning to use any kind of release agent. Do you think I’ll have problems?

[@kakkarotdb]

@@RobertTolone I use Castin'craft Mold Release/Conditioner to help keep the molds in good shape, the first few casts come out fine but after about half a dozen I noticed the wear and tear start w/o any use of the mold release/conditioner

[@RobertTolone]

Good to know, thanks!

[@yoopermann7942]

thank you for the tips

[@ceciliakappler6491]

I loved your videos! Great techniques, and spontaneous comments. You've reached brazilian viewers, congrats!

[@damiencutrupi4411]

Great stuff, easy to listen to and watch.

[@Callowlily3802]

I love the resourcefulness!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Lauren!

[@omerkursuncu3752]

such a great great video, very informative, thanks a lot!!

[@truegret7778]

I love your homage to Chef Justing Wilson ( Cajun humorist ) inspriing and wonderful chef to watch "back in the day". You are correct in this stuff is "shockingly expensive", obscene even. It truly is a barrier to entry to have a hobby. Silicon molds would be a good compliment to my 3d printing projects. Would ordinary candle wax or even bees-wax candles be benefitial to coat the molds?

[@RobertTolone]

Yes, I would normally coat porous surfaces like cardboard and wood with melted beeswax. And I would have assembled the mold case with sticky wax.

[@DinnerSonic]

Gave this a quick watch yesterday night, and will probably re-watch tonight to try and make decent/good candy molds for an upcoming thing. While I think I understand everything else, was there a reason you poured the silicone in several smaller batches/layers(not counting the paint on and the feet part) or was that mainly due to the various cardboard angles, chunkies, and other elements that helped save on the silicone?

[@MarcusWolschon]

Hot glue is easy to remove if you use the cheapest one you can get. Because that is not as flexible as good hot glue and is thus easy to peel off.

[@ASH-ART.]

I use syringes to measure small amounts of epoxy, I think it may as well work for measuring silicone rubber ;)

[@deeturner2355]

Thank you so very much for this video. I have more confidence and can use home found tools !

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you found it helpful Dee!

[@itsio7188]

I have a question about pre-applying the rubber of the metal model. Does the freshly poured rubber always adhere to the brushed on rubber? If so, then could the mold be reused multiple times?

[@michaelo2l]

You have probably heard this suggestion before but just in case... With an inexpensive 3D printer and some filament you could produce a mould housing or shell replacing the cardboard box.... It could be designed to be 2 or 3 mm larger than the final mould and plastic being fairly strong, would add strength to the mould during the casting process... Mike

[@RobertTolone]

One of these days I’ll do that in a video. It’s a great idea.

[@yeshuajoshua3337]

Sir, which will be the correct Part 2? Thank you

[@flytrapjohn]

A very informative video. Thank you.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching Toiletpaper! I appreciate the nice comment.

[@stealthop]

great video thanks for the mold making tips !

[@annekabrimhall1059]

When I mix small amounts I pre-measure using water and a pipette (dosing plunger for baby medicine). Then I mark on the side of the cup exactly 5ml or however much I need.

[@lifeholdstrategic]

What waxes/brands do you recommend? I don't know where to start and assume not all waxes are the same? Another great video, thank you!

[@RobertTolone]

I’m working on a material and supplier list and will post it on my community page. I’ll announce it as soon as it’s up.

[@CarlosFandango73]

@@RobertTolone beat me to it with that question. that would be really useful Robert thank you. Also I've had a look at the wax carving tool you use. Is there a cheaper starter tool?

[@lifeholdstrategic]

@@RobertTolone Awesome, thank you sir.

[@Praudas]

love your videos!

[@chriall]

I have a old watch pressure tester, will that do the job and atleast help a little with getting the gas out?

[@annekabrimhall1059]

I am really need to start testing!

[@Santi_3dstudio]

Nice to meet you Sir here is an other sub!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching and subbing Santi!

[@Nathanboa]

The duck's feet are still sticking out, do I need anything else to fully mold it?

[@Olhamo]

Haven't read the comments, where it might be answered, but, what about using the pure silicone calk and detergent method? would love to see you working with that.

[@RobertTolone]

I have seen that method used on KZbin but I’ve never tried it. The truth is, I want my mold making and casting to be as reliable and efficient as possible. The goal is to get perfect castings every time. I never reach my goal but I try to get there. So I don’t experiment with homemade methods. But there’s no reason why you shouldn’t. Gives it a go let us know how it works for you!

[@glenfisher728]

Ahh mate we can all see how much you're missing your shop . I have made hundreds or more castings over the years bubble free without a vacccum chamber and pressure pot, it can all come down to what RTV and resin you use , and of course the more experience you get with time . Now for casting with out a pressure pot , warm or even heat your mould with a hair dryer and talc your moulds to break the surface tension and do as you usually do and partially fill and tilt the mould. Always great to watch your videos. What does the family think of how popular you are becoming on facebook/KZbin ?

[@RobertTolone]

Yes, experience and good technique can overcome most obstacles. For me the tools are mainly about speed. This is my business so speed = less time = more money. The tools pay for themselves pretty quick. But I realize that’s not most of my audience. So I try to include techniques people can do in their studio. But then I watch a lot of craftspeople do things I will never do. I just watch for pleasure. So I figure other people might be watching my channel for fun too. My mom is my biggest fan, she watches every video when it goes online. My dad just wants to know if I’m making any money yet! 😄😄

[@lucydavidson8242]

just found your channel, love your videos! can't wait to try all your tips!

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you like them Lucy, thanks for letting me know!

[@foxiepoxi9245]

Thank you. Very nice vid! If you ever work with Hot Melt again just spritz the Hot Melt with Alcohol when you are ready to dismantle :) It releases it! Stay safe & humble, Foxi

[@RobertTolone]

Does it work with porous substrates like cardboard and wood?

[@foxiepoxi9245]

@@RobertTolone Lol, I honestly can't answer that. Maybe you could show us? 😁

[@monodo56]

@@foxiepoxi9245 Yes, it’s a good subject for a short video.

[@olivias1364]

I'm curious: can you use the bubble-popping technique with an air compressor tool (instead of the straw) when pouring bigger molds?

[@johnm.washbush591]

Is there a rule as to when a person would use a vacuum pot and when he would use a pressure pot? Which one would be easiest to make DIY?

[@RobertTolone]

I use the vacuum chamber to remove the air from the rubber after it is mixed but before it is poured around the model. The pressure pot is used to suppress bubbles which can form in resin when it is poured into the mold.

[@rheannalamph3220]

You said "always pour the harder first"... would you recommend the same concept with resin, or stick to the instructions which is usually hardener second??

[@RobertTolone]

I generally recommend following the manufacturers instructions. When mixing silicone I always put the hardener in first because it’s much easier to mix. You don’t have any uncured rubber clinging to the sides and bottom of the mixing vessel. With the rubber I use it doesn’t matter which goes in first.

[@gremics-gallery]

Hi Robert, would have a solution to the cardboard sticking have been to sit the mold in some warm water, weighing it down to stay submerged? Thanks

[@RobertTolone]

Even a tiny amount of water will cause urethane resin to foam. So I am very careful not to let water get anywhere near my molds. If you do get a mold wet be sure it is 100% dry. If the mold has a lot of detail it can be surprisingly difficult to dry it completely.

[@philchadwick9470]

You could use a hairdryer to dismantle the casing.

[@trueCinemaniac]

I've been watching countless videos in prep for my first molding projects, and this is the first I've heard or seen of a Print Coat. May be perfect for my concerns about not getting bubbles or missing info on details! Some of the subjects I'm going to be molding are vinyl or plastic with nicely painted details that I don't want to damage. Would you recommend that I coat the subject in a release agent first before brushing on a print coat, and if so, what kind of release agent would you recommend for best results? I plan to use Smooth-On Mold Star 15 for my silicone projects, should I then use Smooth-On release agent to be safe, or do you advise against using release agents at all? Thank you Robert, I'm loving your videos, I'm learning so much!

[@RobertTolone]

I recommend you test a small spot of rubber on the materials you are planning to mold. That will tell you if there are any cure inhibition or bonding issues with your particular combination of materials.

[@stacyrenee3390]

Hello there. How would I go about putting in for a custom order or paying you for your time to help me with a project?

[@quassisbelltower9408]

Do you have links to get beeswax and the other wax material you use plus the heated wax wand you use?

[@RobertTolone]

Here’s a link to the pdf: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0

[@carrolbrooks2143]

Just Curious: couldn't you pour the silicone into a Zip Lock bag, push the air out the end and seal, then squish the two chemicals together to mix?

[@RobertTolone]

I don’t know, I’ve never tried it. Try it out (in a small batch) and see if it works for you.

[@minesucculents]

Any place less expensive to buy a larger amount for a bigger project casting ? Thank you

[@RobertTolone]

I buy my materials at Silpak.com. Usually I buy resin and rubber in 5-gallon buckets.

[@jasminmacrae4490]

I have made a mold with this same rubber, I got some bubbles in my mold and I was wondering if I can fix the mold itself by painting over with fresh rubber? The mold I want it for candle making. Thank you!

[@RobertTolone]

You’ll probably still see the repair in the castings. Your project is currently in production now, btw.

[@stevesloan6775]

At 7:40, could you use a little butane torch /jet lighter to pop bubbles like other two part compounds? Id be interested to hear if the direct heat and possible residues cause issues, or make a positive effect. : )

[@RobertTolone]

That technique is excellent for epoxy resins which cure much more slowly. but it doesn’t work for urethane resins partly because heat greatly speeds the cure of urethanes.

[@SwellNelman]

A guy like you should really get a big boy shop one day. But, you seem to do well with common craft items. Have fun with the hobby, old salt.

[@RobertTolone]

Watch more of my videos. It’s always useful to know what you are talking about before you comment. 😄

[@nightmare_sauce]

in addition to you just simply not watching the other videos to see him working with professional tools in his professional shop, he literally says in this video that he is not currently in his shop and is using what he has around the house

[@holzmann8443]

While these tips won't be of any use to you, they might help other viewers. Transfer pipettes help with measuring tiny amounts of hardener. Isopropyl alcohol breaks the bond between hot melt glue and other surfaces, it seems to seep under for some reason. Thanks for the awesome video as always! Sorry we made you pay craft store prices to educate us.

[@RobertTolone]

Your tips are very useful to me! I have small eyedroppers in my studio and never thought to use pipettes! And I didn’t know that alcohol will break hot melt bonds. That’s very handy and I will experiment with that as soon as I can. Thanks!

[@Mnkyc_311]

When you use a large container, try squeezing the top to make a pour spout and don't fill it up all the way or you'll have more of a mess

[@RobertTolone]

Great tip!

[@KarinEdwards-s4t]

Why do you heat the silicone mold before pouring the wax? Is that necessary?

[@RobertTolone]

Because a cold mold wax can cool the wax so it might not fill surface details completely.

[@sudoboat]

Use an allen wrench to mix without introducing too much bubbles.

[@RobertTolone]

I gotta test this out!

[@RoLee705]

Why not do a print coat over all of your models if you’re guaranteed no bubbles?

[@otnihelestradadiz6295]

Awesome

[@derekvictory2382]

Hey I could use some help I'm mold and multiple a sluice box. So I have wider and or longer sluice box how would start

[@RobertTolone]

How big are you planning to make them?

[@moosasaiedian5459]

Please practice larger sizes, like flower pots and decorations. Tnx.

[@magnuswootton6181]

getting rid of bubbles might not be so important, its mostly aesthetic but i spose it does weaken it structurally slightly. so maybe just do it with bubbles and its not so bad?

[@RobertTolone]

Like any flaw in craftsmanship , the reason to get rid of bubbles is that they are unsightly and detract from the quality of the casting. Therefore most people finish a casting by filling and sanding out the bubbles. That is a lot of extra work that must be repeated on each and every casting. Much better to employ good technique and eliminate the bubbles from the beginning.

[@stevengarcia3842]

Im trying to make a casting of a good size pumpkin any advice

[@RobertTolone]

Simple enough shape to cast but expensive in silicone. I have considered doing a video project on hollow casting a Halloween pumpkin. I might even do it using urethane rubber and water-extended polyester as the molding and casting materials.

[@radinsyah1574]

Instead of wax, can I use plexy glass instead? Would that be as efficient as bees wax? Thanks.

[@RobertTolone]

Yes, plexiglass can make excellent mold cases.

[@radinsyah1574]

@@RobertTolone Thanks, Bob. I’ll give that a try