Buying a Defender Things to look for Part 2 the Chassis/frame

[@solarbuduk]

Your videos are so educational. I find them absolutely fascinating. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything that you do! It’s great to see underneath the car what’s actually going on, that’s something that many of us wouldn’t have chance to do as not everyone has an inspection pit!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks - this was the aim of the video for beginners and the curious!Mike

[@RonWageman]

Great video's. I'm a Land-Rover specialist in the Netherlands for almost 30 years and it frigtens me that someone on the other side of the world telling the same stories wich I also tell to my customers (haha). I think that most of the potential Land_rover buyers have knee problems. They don't bend them to take a look underneath the car. I'll advice all the potential buyers to go together to take a look at the car. Then there is at least one person without pink sunglasses. And still there are some stubborn types who think they know it all and when the show up with their newley purchased pride and joy and I've put it on the ramp for a inspection I'll advise them to park it beside my workshop. "But that's your breakers yard". "Yep that's correct, at least you understand that part of the story." It's difficult to find a honest Land-Rover.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Nice! You guys out there crack me up as we share as sense of humour! (You have to in this business!) I wish I could tell you what he paid for this car..... MIke

[@nickboylen6873]

Make a card template of the bolt holes before cutting the rotten section out and drill a couple of holes on the outboard face. Pass wire or chord through those holes to temporarily hold the harness away from the welding work, then remove the chord once cooled. Leaving that rot will accelerate deterioration of the new steel as you'll have a rotten double layer that will prevent wax coverage.

[@wensumwoodlanders898]

I wish someone had given me these pointers before I bought my first Defender. Good video. Simple plain advice.

[@scottkraniak4941]

your such an honest man...love it as a preacher / pastor and retired mechanic i simply love listening to you my dream is a Defender 90 about 97.. but anyway well done my friend

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thank you Scott! Mike

[@JAMESGRANGER]

I've bought my first defender and I love it. But... It's back in the garage with a refurbished rear diff and new half shafts going in. There are small rust holes in the tub floor that also need looking into (pardon the pun)... At least Ive sorted the leaks out!.. These care are so expensive now, it's a money pit, but I'm sucked in now. Hopefully I'll get round to the pretty stuff soon.

[@ceciliaholcombe818]

Found your video of what to buy and not buy 5 years too late. Oh my! There is no rust on the Santana but the motor parts were not taken care of and wiring was a disaster. The first problems is is a Santana so not all the Land Rover series 3 parts work. If I could only get the steering fix I wouldn't cry so much..haha (I'm a girl) I love trying to fix it and luckily my husband is strong enough to tighten nuts and bolts. With my help we can get rusty nuts and bolts off and do a "high five". I wish a could talk you into coming down here during the cold months of Jan and February and stay at my condo on the beach free for working on our steering and motor issues...a little bartering. Again, your videos are my salvation and make me smile even when I'm I know I have these problems. I will look to see is you do a series 3 steering relay or tier rod ends of ball joints or steering box. Stay well, I really need you! Yup, you help the old girls out, not just the old guys.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

A lot of Santana's come here as they were rust free and cheap - but as you said, the parts for the Land Rover are not always interchangeable, and not easy to find here - in fact I do not know anyone who sells parts for these in North America I think on my memory stick I have the parts books and manuals for the Sanatana's, but they are all in Spanish I have very little in the way of Series parts on my shelves - I stopped selling parts about 5 years ago

[@bedophoto]

Thanks for your videos, they are very useful. Is there a follow-up video for welding the chassis ? I am having similar problem and would like to know how did you address the problem.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No, sorry

[@MrRobmellor]

I thought that I was the only person that had trouble with mice nesting in the chassis. I bought a chassis that had been kept in a barn. The lad ,s enthusiasm had died and he started to sell all the bits off. Amongst the parts I bought was the chassis. I tried putting a fish wire through the chassis to drag the arness with after I had rebuilt the motor. I could not get the fish wire to go more than a couple of feet from either end. I ended up putting a curtain wire with the hook still on it into the chassis and pulling loads of horse hair out of it. Later I realised why I had seen a few mice knocking about in the garage, they must have hitched a lift from Peterborough to Manchester on the back of my recovery vehicle inside the chassis. Thanks for the laugh Mike, your video,s are so down to earth that anyone can benefit from watching them. Best wishes from God,s county, Yorkshire, Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Lol! I hope you did the right thing and drove them back.. Mike

[@MrRobmellor]

Once people ( and it seems mice ) come to Yorkshire, they find it hard to leave willingly. Your taxi is on standby, ready to go to Manchester international airport, let me know when you need it. Best wishes, Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

My mate came from London must be 50 years ago and never left live in Grosmont but hates the trains with are in his back yard!

[@MrRobmellor]

I came from Tunbridge wells in Kent. I cant remember anything about it as I was only a babe in arm,s. My dad was overseas fighting and the bombs were dropping on Kent, so my mum went to live with my grandma in Yorkshire. We were stuck in Birmingham for nearly a week as the lines had been destroyed, the troop and amo trains had priority over the civilian traffic. I think that's why I like Land rovers, I need something that is strong and I can depend on. One good thing about living up north, we talk proper and drive Land rovers because we have to, not for show. Keep up the good work Mike, and I hope that you don't mind having a laugh while you are doing the videos. See you soon. Rob.

[@zingaman101]

Bloody good info mate. From oz and people drive them on the sand and don't wash off salt after. 5 years later the chassis and doors are stuffed. Cheers!!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks! Question - and I am not being sarcastic, but do Australians rust proof their vehicles? I was in Oz a while back and know about the wet in the tropics, but it just struck me about the beach use Mike

[@betterbackwards2701]

What's a bump stop?? Mine gone a long time ago. Have done extensive welding to my Defender 200tdi. Made new outriggers and other parts. My rules are to always cut out the old rust. Replace chassis with minimum 3mm and out riggers with minimum 2mm plate. Replacement parts are not as heavy duty. Think the galvanized chassis are only 2mm.

[@swiftnick3]

I am amazed you don't think this is a good video! It is by far the best explanation and walk through assessment of what to look out for (and even better, how to deal with and fix) all the Land Rover Defender chassis problems that I have ever seen. Thank you so much.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks - I just do not want people to buy any more rotten chassied Rovers - this guy paid way over the top for this truck Many times people look at a nice body and never closely underneath! Mike

[@nosferatu8789]

Some of the points raised are accurate some not so. I always out rot and weld new metal in. Make a template first of the area of rot so any fixing holes are replicated. No chassis should be sand blasted unless the body is off because you cannot get all the way around it and as such its a waste of money. It is also easy to repair. The body can be removed in one piece if it is jigged and braced correctly and takes about a day.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Working to a tight budget will not allow this - not my vehicle - I do as a customer instructs

[@tsparc2]

The only way to have peace of mind is to swap out the whole chassis with a galvanised one... I went into it with that mindset when I got my 300tdi 90... the chassis was rotten and full of patches and filler.... like the video says they rot from the inside out so if you see rust on the outside it’s never good.. patching/welding just buys time.

[@Chris_2022]

If you decide to plate over the rust holes behind the gearbox crossmember, just remember to shorten the crossmember to allow for the thickness of metal that you used. Personally, I'd cut the rot out and sit the pieces in flush. Great vids. I wish more buyers would take note, but like you say, it's got all the 'goodies', even though it's 'rotten'

[@BritannicaRestorations]

This job has gone now

[@nbell4166]

Great points Mike. When I removed driver seat on my 90 I discovered few holes on top of the chassis just on side of the fuel tank. It come handy as could get to the wires, hooked and lift them up when I was welding bottom of the chassis. This underfloor sections on mine is ready for replacement, it's especially rotten on places where metal floor crossmember struts are in contact with long floor support top hat that is made of aluminium. If not properly isolated it will rot faster (learned in defender school) Mine was bought from a farmer, first job I did was to remove roof lining and get out about 2kg of oats that mices stored there 🐀🐁🐀 Luckily they haven't been interested in wires 😊

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You were lucky! A lot of barn fires here have been caused by mice eating the 110v insulation Funny what mice will eat - I thought the insulation tasted crap...

[@nschwert]

"I thought the insulation tasted crap..." HA! HA!

[@MrRobmellor]

did you boil it or have it fried. LOL. Rob P/S the reason that they nore at soft stuff is to keep their teeth sharp and from growing to long, rat and squirrels and rabbits do the same. Their teeth grow the same as our finger nails. ( not many people know that ) --- ( and even less want to ) Rob.

[@dfcvda]

im getting one and now you have scared the bejeebers out of me!

[@TheCounty90]

With my old chassis I bought a Karcher drain unblocking tube and blasted it out. So much come out of it. Then Dinatrol

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Excellent! Mike

[@clooperman3745]

@@BritannicaRestorations I used to do some work for a transport firm that delivered parts to Land Rover at Solihull and the driver told me he saw a batch of new chassis that had signs of rust on them!!! all at no extra cost to the customer!!!!!!!!!!!

[@guffiuk]

Hi To anyone who wants to replace the sills cheaply and has a welder. Go to local fabrication shop and get them to fold a 3mm thick plate into 25x50x25mm U channel. Then unbolt old sill. Cut off the End braket that connect to the bulkhead, line everything up and weld the braket to new U channel. Drill all holes for floor, seatbelt mounts ect and bolt in place. Just done mine this way as diy and £40 for both sides is cheap. Maybe an idea for you Milke for this budget project instead of buy new sills and waiting for delivery

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I saw YRM are doing them - I also need the 2 x C post so might as well get them together -in fact he needs 2 x footwells also - might as well get them from YRM as they are far better than Britpart/Bearmach onesBut good idea all the same - I made mine for my 130 by slicing a bit of box section in two with the plasmaMike

[@sniry123]

Thank you for the video but this car is complete shut. I wonder about checking a car of a good condition from later years, a puma when its hard to see the fault. any tips for that? if transfer is leaking ? skylight window show some rust? thanks!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have not seen a Puma here yet, but they do suffer from corrosion - maybe more, as I have heard a lot of complaints

[@sniry123]

@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you just checked one today beside few bubbles at skyline was clean..

[@weaton25]

This is why I prefer old American pickup trucks when they still used thick steel channels about 3/16 metal it may flex a bit but you can get at both sides to paint or rust proof it just look at how many 1960/70 trucks are still quite rust free in the chassis department. Please tell the guy to save up and get a new galvanized chassis may cost a lot more but it 2 or even 10 years it will not need patching again unlike this old one will.

[@BernadetteBLL]

Please tell your client to buy a new chassis It would be more economic in the long run.You will repair and patch and in a couple of years the vehicle will be back for more welding and patches!

[@GBR4ME]

So, given the same mileage and year of manufacture, used in the same conditions and levels of general vehicle care do you think any other vehicle would have fared any better than this Mandy?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Nope

[@GBR4ME]

@@BritannicaRestorations I thought not. Thanks

[@radiator0]

Hi mike do you think a coating of engine oil thinned down with a little petrol sprayed on EVERY year would have prevented this rot? I do realise waxing is better but i struggle in applying the stuff, oil and petrol in one of those pump action canisters is easy and something i can do myself at home.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I would not suggest thinning with petrol, (bit too flammable) nor engine oil - it can rot any rubber hoses or bushes over a period of timeI suggest Dinatrol for rust proofing in Europe - easy to apply and not too expensiveMike

[@paweltarnowski383]

Any toughts on Fluid Film?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

excellent stuff - use it here Bit expensive though

[@marco_au_boulot6747]

Hi, I have a question (sorry for my english). I leave in south of France, so except during winter, there is not a lot of humidity and moisture. My chassis is in enough good state (few rusty, 200tdi year 1992). There is a guy who makes sandblast job on 4x4 chassis (and paint) around 800€. Do you think it is a good strategy or it isn't worth ? I know he can't do a fabulous job because he just lift one side on the chassis etc. Very nice videos but sad to not see the racoon :) I hope he is happy with his racoon friends.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Marco if only light rust on the chassis consider DINITROL 4941 black solvent based underbody coating www.dinitroldirect.com/product/dinitrol-4941-car-black-underbody-rust-prevention-rustproofing-chassis/

[@malachydonaldson9813]

In the likes of process industries they use companies like 'Sponge Jet' less aggressive than sand blasting small sponges are fired at the rust and same is captured within the sponge media worth looking at if you have a local agent ...you could maybe drive the Landrover close to a local agent and have same done nearby www.spongejet.com/events/sponge-jet-wows-shipyards-and-owners-alike-in-cannes-france/

[@defendermender4959]

Mike been here in this situation a lot more recently with inflated prices and old defenders- paid too much and needs a chassis, but no budget for it, i hope you told him to start saving up for one in the not too distant future! Funny the later td5 on chassis are "the same" but very different, much thinner metal i think and more mud traps in my opinion, they just don't seem to have lasted as long, maybe cheaper steel? I think 90's rot much worse in the curve at the rear radius arm and when they do welding them just is a waste of time. The Td5-on chassis even rot in the long straight middle part- badly at the bottom. Im a hater of waxoyl the water just gets in behind eventually and it makes it worse than if you did nothing at all. i wonder was it the killer on this 110? The wiring in them as well is absolute junk- poor quality wire i spend a hell of a lot of time fixing plugs and loom rub throughs and corrosion. I just pull the loom out and fish it back through with a set of "Mole poles" i get you though on the earlier stuff, you get into years of bodges of peoples lighting wiring "fixes" and thats just a world of time, trouble and pain haha

[@BritannicaRestorations]

This 110 was sprayed with a tar like crap - nothing inside the chassis or parts that were difficult to access (see under the tank) I am not a lover of Waxoyl either - rubbish over in Canada - gets to hard in winter and salt water gets trapped behind it We have a product similar to Dinatrol which is great for doors and chassis interiors, but can wash off under arches. I often wonder about the thinking behind Land Rover chassis and what their approach was to longevity - maybe they focused too much on the likes of the Middle East or Africa As vehicles have to be over 15 years old for importation we almost have a gun to our heads when buying - if you want the vehicle, you get the rust and corrosion as well I do not see many Td5's here yet, but I agree - a new chassis is the only way to go - and I like Marsland ones - always have - I tried Richard but they shafted me on time to supply when I was in the UK - pre paid for 3 110's and promised they would be ready - called them when I got to the UK - and they promised they will be ready for pick up and 2 weeks before loading the container they were still not done - I had to extend my visit for 3 weeks and when they were done they didn't have the cross members, towers or anything I paid for - and to make matters worse, they buggered about so long I could not get the VAT back, so had to pay tax twice Never again! Mike

[@nschwert]

leaf springs dumb/dune hangings at 12:20?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Dumb irons were the further most point of the chassis which the fixed end of the leaf springs were attached en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dumb_iron Mike

[@nschwert]

Mike, man you know lots!!!! ::thumbsup::

[@yousseflahbil679]

100% that defender was driven in sea shore because looks so rusty

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Came from the UK

[@Retro-Future-Land]

My mate has a 90. Was used by a guy who owned it previously for beach combing, fishing and mussel hunting etc. Absolutely riddled with corrosion now. Will cost at least 2,500 grand to get it back on the road and as new I think.@@BritannicaRestorations

[@tomthompson7400]

Thats a good one ,,, you dont really want to see a bad one , and especially if your names on the log book

[@chrismiller9740]

That Land Rover is rotten as a pear

[@frank-lr]

Excellent video - again! Wires *inside* the chassis? 8-) With our TD4 all looms run along on the outsides.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Defenders were always this way - something to watch when welding!

[@MattMillard-be3cu]

Whoops! I did a patch repair behind gearbox crossmember on my D90, new metal on top of old, did not mind the wires running through… hopefully they were floating through the middle or on bottom, away from weld. So far so good! Would love to see a video on replacing the front dumbirons, that’s a project left to do on mine for another day. I bought some repair pieces, looks to be a big project. Wings off yeah?

[@kbrouss]

It's unfortunate how terrible the closed captioning is for translation even for English.

[@imminicheddars]

14:25 🙃

[@Jesusonlymediatorwithgod]

Lay up treasure in heaven thieves and rust cannot destroy that. A horse and chariot of fire is better than a defender on fire

[@petersmith4455]

yet again more rust..if you have a land rover have a big bank balance.if you drive in deep water especially salt water you will pay the price.

[@kamikazekaos]

Sorry I'm not being funny this our obvious points to look out for, to buying any old car

[@BLUESKY-zt1nv]

why do you think Land rover stopped making defenders ..? answer because they knew they were nothing but rust buckets .

[@CosgroveNotts]

Still shite and I've not worked on them since 1970s

[@kingquadking6075]

Things to look for means everything total crap rot box avoid at all cost money pit you will never stop spending even a on a new one total crap

[@sararyan1255]

🇮🇪👍👍👍💕👋🌷

[@neilrafferty2097]

What kind of clown designed these vehicles ?