Bypass or Disable Foot Brake starter Switch test solenoid wont start Honda Helix motorcycle cn250

How to Bypass or disable the foot brake starter disabling switch
1) Remove the seat. One bolt.
2) Remove the body center cover. 4 screws accessible from under the seat.
3) Remove the left lower rear cover. 2 screws and 1 phillips bolt.
4) Remover the left side rail. 1 8mm bolt.
5) Remove the left foot peg. 1 12mm bolt. The peg slides out to the side.
6) Remove the left floor mat.
7) Remove the two bolts (10mm, I think) that secure the left floor panel.
Lift the left side of the floor panel to reveal the Brake Light/Starter Limit switch.
9) Remove about an eighth inch of insulation from the white/green and green/red wires. There is no need to disconnect anything.
10) Connect these wires together by soldering a short jumper or cross the wired at the stripped locations and solder them together.
11) Replace the panels in the reverse order. This is important because you could be like me and do it many times in the wrong order.
The positive voltage for the starter relay is routed through the brake interlock to the start switch. The ground lead for the relay comes from the side stand and isn't otherwise switched. The negative lead could be grounded by connecting the two wires at the side stand. I have chosen to leave the side stand interlock alone since I believe it is useful."

[@treaannful]

I have a 2009 cf moto fashion 250cc scooter, which is exactly just like the Honda Helix and I had a similar issue come up with the brake light start switch. Your video helped me immensely, by showing me the source of the possible problem and how to remedy it before going into a complete replacement of all possible faulty components. When I watched your video and did as you did, it did start my bike. However, as a former commenter mentioned, in bypassing this switch, you lose the brake light which poses as a safety issue. Being that, I ride on very busy streets all the time, I just wasn't comfortable with this. Don't misunderstand me, your video was an extreme help and I can't thank you enough, but I wanted to get to the root of the problem. So I did a little further investigation as to why this switch prevented me from starting my bike when I hadn't had a problem with it before and was able to find the problem. In my particular case, I had 2 things going on, 1)the spring connecting the foot brake to the switch, had somehow became unattached from the brake arm control. 2) the switch itself was out of adjustment. Therefore, I simply reinstalled the spring onto the brake lever. However, once I did this, even though the bike did start, my brake light was now on constant. The 2nd thing I discovered was, now that the bike was able to start the proper way, but now I needed for the brake light to not be locked on. How to remedy that problem was very easy. On the switch itself, as you may have seen for yourself, there is an adjusting plastic nut. This nut can be turned by hand in 1 direction or the other to either create more tension on the spring connected to the brake lever or create less tension. If more tension is put on the spring, the brake light will be in the constant on position. If there is less tension on the spring, then you lose the ability to start the bike even though you now have a properly working brake light. Therefore, with the help of another person to watch the actions of your brake light or a mirror if by yourself, you can by hand, turn the adjustment nut a 1/4 - 1/2 turn at a time in 1 direction or the other, depending on your particular problem and find that sweet spot that, allows you to be able to press on the foot brake, get a brake light that lights when it should and at the same time, allows for the switch to make contact with the starter motor therefore starting the bike. Since these switches are only made of plastic, obviously there's no way to actually lock the adjustment nut down solid to prevent the switch from getting out of adjustment, therefore it's good practice to recheck the position of that switch often. Obviously, 1 of the best times to check it would be, when you know the brake light is working yet you're unable to start the bike, but you're able to do a bypass if necessary. Another good time to recheck the switch would be when performing normal maintenance on the bike such as, when doing oil changes and such. During times of riding, under normal conditions of wear and tear, vibrations cause things to loosen up or even break. In the case of this plastic switch, the adjustment nut is able to vibrate out of position, causing the switch to appear faulty. 1 possible solution to helping that nut to not back off during normal rides and vibration, is to possibly put a small dab of thread lock tight on the threads. In the event you've checked the position of the spring and the tension on the switch and still are unable to start the bike except to bypass the switch, then getting a new switch is best. They're very inexpensive and easy to install. Again, safety is key. Bypassing the switch in a pinch is fine, but either replacing the faulty switch or following the above suggestions is best. Again, thank you so much for providing this video as, it took me right to the source before spending unnecessary money and investing unnecessary time on things that didn't need doing. Have a great day. Safe motoring and God bless.

[@double0newb]

A shame I can't give this more than one like. Clear, concise and thorough. Brilliant!

[@jasonbirch1182]

You are the man. I'm sure I would have gotten there but you saved me a bunch of time. Neighbor gave me the bike saying it wouldn't start because of an alarm. It took me 30 min to figure it out. Runs like a champ. This little thing is kinda scary fast. It's completely plastic less (and title less) but it's gonna be a fun something project. Thanks again!

[@dennisschlenz4289]

Perfect! Excellent explanation and very concise. You saved me a ton of time in now knowing that my solenoid and starter are working. I'm thinking that it all comes down to a simple low battery charge. Thanks for posting this!!

[@JRW809]

You are a patient man. I went through the same process and watching your video was helpful. One thing I will say is you no longer have brake lights. you could add a jumper wire so both the brake light switch and the starter relay receive power with the switch on. I just don't know if there is a downside of putting power to the starter relay 100% of the time. My guess is that it is ok as that's the way they used to do it before Ralph Nader and NHTSA.

[@Scott.Mariani]

Thank you, that made troubleshooting the starter solenoid very easy.

[@bryanmathison1754]

This video was the best!!!

[@yannprimero]

The bike start but did the rear brake light work ? Thank's if you have time to answer .

[@eddiezayas8343]

Thanks for the great video

[@dansplett8303]

Excellent video

[@themusicman630]

Thank you for the detailed information!

[@bobbrueckner7498]

Just go underneath by the kickstand pivot and take the wires off of the switch. (Cut them if you have to.) Then either twist the wires together, or leave them separate. (One way or the other will achieve your goal.) Tape them up. Done.

[@OneMansAdventure]

I don't habe a helix, I have a reflex with 70,454 miles on it!!!! Honda's are a beast!!!

[@Lloyd-mo]

thank u my barn find 93 has that prob. just picked it up.

[@DG-hw5zy]

Awesome!! I thought the bike was a goner. The bypass works, but now the brake light doesn’t work. Is there a way to keep the brake light switch working with this hack or do I just need to buy a new switch?

[@treaannful]

Depending on your switch, you could possibly replace it. However, with the wires all properly connected, try adjusting the plastic adjustment nut on the switch to see if this fixes your problem. If there’s too much tension on the spring, the bike will start but the brake light will be on constant. However,if you take off some tension by turning the nut 1/4-1/2 turn at a time, it will all the bike to start and the brake light to operate as it should. Also, make sure the spring is properly seated on the brake lever. This fixed my problem. I had come to find with my bike, that this was the problem as, my bike not starting was an intermittent issue due to the amount of or lack of, on the spring. Being that there’s constant vibration from riding, this can cause the adjustment nut to loosen up. Possibly one way to help prevent this,is to apply a tiny dab of thread lock tight on the switch once it’s properly adjusted. Hope this helps.

[@DG-hw5zy]

@@treaannful Thanks for the thorough response. I tried replacing the switch with a new OEM part which showed no improvement. Bypassing the switch still worked, enabling the starter button to turn over the engine but it wouldn’t fired. Upon further inspection and replacement of the fuel pump and filter I discovered that no fuel was being delivered to the carburetor. That was the last straw for me and I parted the vehicle out. Cheers.

[@TOBBETODAY]

THANKS This hack really saved my day. Yesterday my car went dead in MCD drive through :( So today I started up my old beloved Helix to get to work. But this evening the starter went dead on old Helix :( But thanks to your video I was able to hack this fast :) But as Social Garage mention, this affects the brake light, my foot brake light is gone now (at least I think it was working before) Still got the hand brake light though so Im fine for a while. May it be that doing things according your description 9-10 solves this problem ? Please tell if you know. Guess its time for me to look for a schematic.

[@slavyjorgow2861]

The way to go around this issue is to connect the GR/R wire on the switch side with the G/Y wire on the switch side. Leave the W/G wire plugged the way it is supposed to be.

[@fishinwitha510]

Thanks man. Made my dayyyyyy yes !!!!

[@Thesocialgarage]

Doesn't it also leave the brake light on all the time?

[@patriciamarshall1158]

What is the actual part called that goes from the foot brake to make the honda helix start ?? instead of unhooking it ... would rather replace whatever part is bad

[@treaannful]

Rear brake light starter switch assembly

[@Boy69374]

Why is my rim over heating when riding

[@bobdionne4625]

Thanks

[@Mcdashiznit]

mine didnt start i purchased a solenoid,it fired up bn running strong let sitt for 5 days no crank again ,new battery new plug,fresh gas ,should i replace cdi?

[@pauliebagz1]

Mc da shiznit there is black box near the battery it’s like modular thingy mine was on an angle I fixed everything and it wouldn’t start I think it’s a light module or top over sensor either way this is what’s was stoping my bike from running try this out

[@coffeebean9956]

Could u tell me how to take the seat off

[@stevefletcher2334]

mine also has the hack...but then the rear brake pedal doesn't activate the brake light...not ideal. Any way around this?

[@treaannful]

I posted a remedy to this problem in a couple of places on this page. Please refer to them. Hope it helps you.

[@piotrsynowiec8308]

I did the baypass but the stop light dissapear!

[@uredskivid]

I dont wanna lose my brake light switch !

[@Petesworkshop2225]

Nice! I've got 30000+ on 86 elite.

[@ACoustaDC]

I bet your brake light doesn't work now