C10 Project: Painting the Fender Jambs and Wheelhouses

Got some color on the inside of the fenders and some Hot Rod Black on the Wheelhouses and Radiator Support. #c10, #squarebody, #stoutcustom
Music Credit: Blue Texas by Rockin' for Decades

[@deankay4434]

Well, inside the wheel house / fender, got my answer. That’s what I get for watching videos out of sequence. Never seen that product here yet. Thanks Jim! DK, Omaha

[@StoutCustom]

You’re welcome, lol

[@eddiefinch436]

Looks fantastic

[@StoutCustom]

Thank you!

[@snoopu2601]

Yes the single stage paint makes me feel like I'm a pro at it. When it comes to the 2 3 stage paints job's is a whole different ball game. Here in Northen California bay area it's really hard to get the good paints like in the 1990s. I did spray some "HOT RODS FLATS" that was some durable paint. Some German Shepard leash got hooked on the back tire of my 1972 GMC Suburban and put his clues on the quarter panel!! Barely put some lite scratch marks in it. I believe if it would have been any other paint, the scratches would have been to the metal. Thanks for the video great stuff learn something new.

[@StoutCustom]

That’s one thing I’ve noticed about the hot Rod black as well. It gets very hard and durable. Thanks for watching!

[@BlueMacGyver]

You are so fucking good at bodywork! You do the cleanest work I have seen on KZbin. Keep the C-10 content coming.

[@StoutCustom]

Thank you! I will do my best to keep it coming. 👍

[@sidebarvideos]

Hot Rod black turned out really nice!

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks!

[@jakegilbertson4342]

Getting ready for my first paint job and I enjoy and appreciate how you take the time to explain everything! Thank you.

[@StoutCustom]

Good deal! I hope all goes well and it turns out great! Best of luck to you and thanks for watching!

[@josecavada3830]

👍

[@jimbennett1519]

Nice job man and some good information. Thanks

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks and as always thanks for watching!

[@tcollier4017]

excellant explaination on the paint in simple terms. I just learned something new 👍🏾

[@StoutCustom]

Glad it was helpful!

[@RebuildRex]

Good stuff!! I love single stage paint!

[@StoutCustom]

Hard to beat on the solid colors for sure!

[@64b09]

Liked your theory on single stage hiding the ripples below. Those Stout stands are priceless! Going to make some this weekend.

[@StoutCustom]

Cool! So many uses for them. As always, thanks for watching!

[@williamcoiner6019]

looking good. Can you epoxy prime over E coat or should you get to bare metal?

[@StoutCustom]

Epoxy can be applied over e-coat or existing finishes as long as they are sanded.

[@mickiematthews1881]

Jim, if I wanted to use a rattle can mixed up by my PPG dealer in a single stage, can I get that in a metallic form? If not , will you really be able to see the difference in the non-metallic jambs and the metallic exterior ?

[@StoutCustom]

I’m told yes you can get metallic in the spray can and I believe you would see a difference between the two.

[@Brian-tg8ye]

Good video. I'm going to take your advice with the single stage for my engine bay and interior of my 87 square body

[@StoutCustom]

Good deal! Yeah lots of benefits to the single stage. These trucks had lacquer paint from the factory and painting basecoat over that can cause some major issues that you will not have with single stage.

[@johndavis9602]

I love the Factory Altered look.

[@StoutCustom]

I’m diggin it as well!

[@trifit2709]

If epoxy then do filler work Do you sand just to lightly scuff so primer will stick then add base? I know you can’t sand epoxy but not sure what to do if I have months in between epoxy and priming

[@StoutCustom]

Yes sand the epoxy before priming. Some epoxy can be primed over without sanding if it hasn’t passed the recoat window ( usually a few hours to a few days) but it’s best to sand it for maximum adhesion. Especially if it has sat for a while. The primer will have to dry and be sanded before applying a sealer or basecoat.

[@tcollier4017]

and I take it single stage is less expensive overall compared to the alternative

[@StoutCustom]

Generally yes

[@kountrylr23]

Looking good!

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks man!

[@snoopu2601]

That's the nerve wracking part bolting the freshly painted parts back on without scratching the nice paint job. Use lots and lot's of masking tape and paper on while putting the painted parts on. For those that don't know. Tape is a lot cheaper than having to repaint the part.

[@StoutCustom]

You’re right about tape being cheaper than repainting for sure, lol

[@scottperkins6851]

Man I love your videos. Thanks again!

[@StoutCustom]

Glad you like them and as always thanks for watching!

[@deegan727]

Good stuff. I’m redoing a K5 now. I’m using Raptor liner spray liner on the whole underside of the tub,back sides of fenders, wheel housings etc. I’m also not going to re carpet the inside I’m using a tinted liner (maroon interior) from Monstaliner. I’m not concerned with everything looking OEM i just want it to look good and for a very long time. Oh and all that will be applied over a epoxy primer. I like the look of the liner on the inside of your inner fenders, it shows me what mine is going to look like.

[@StoutCustom]

I like your plan. Sounds like a good way to go for a K5 and something a little different. 👍 Thanks for watching!

[@dentonpage3802]

Awesome work, looks way better than the aftermarket tubs

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks! Yeah I’m liking the look

[@tcollier4017]

not sure why some folks are content on painting the inner wells the same color as the truck and not black with some sort of coating. it makes the truck look a lot better with front and back wheel wells black and in some cases it makes the rim/tire combo look bigger too

[@StoutCustom]

You’re right about making the tire/wheel combo look bigger. I guess it’s all just a matter of taste or the look you are going for.

[@nimblybimbly4002]

Does e-coat need to be scuffed or anything?

[@StoutCustom]

It depends on the product you are applying over it. Some sealers will adhere to it great without scuffing while others will not. Most paints will require scuffing if applied directly to e-coat. It’s best to read the tech sheet for the products you are using to be sure. When in doubt…..scuff.

[@nimblybimbly4002]

@@StoutCustom Thanks!

[@robertjenkins2686]

I'm a new subscriber, what paint product do u prefer for a first time painter I'm painting my first c10

[@StoutCustom]

I would stick with a solid color preferably and use Shopline JAU single stage paint. It’s a great product that performs well and is affordable. Good luck on your truck! Thanks for watching and subscribing!

[@mickiematthews1881]

Have you found a new home/shop yet? Love your in depth videos.

[@StoutCustom]

Still working on that but prices are crazy right now. Glad you like the videos and appreciate you watching!

[@builditinyourgarage7826]

Great Video and good information on single stage. Would there be a problem painting all interior surfaces (bottom of bed/cab, firewall, inside of cab, etc with single stage? Does single stage spray better/worse in all spray positions? Thanks

[@StoutCustom]

There’s no problem doing that. That’s what I did on this C10. It’s a great way to go because it eliminates a step vs basecoat. The only problems with single stage are painting a metallic color and buffing. Single stage is usually harder to buff than clear coat. You may also go through while buffing because there are typically only two coats needed for coverage. As far as metallic, getting it to lay evenly without the metallics swimming while getting a slick finish is sometimes a challenge. Also color match is a little more difficult with single stage metallics because of how the metallic floats vs basecoat. Single stage will spray the same as a clear coat. However if you get a run in single stage, sand out the run, and polish it there may be a slight change in the color where the run was while clear coat would not change it.