C10 Show Truck Project: Final Seam Sealer on Drip Rail and Final Block and Prime on Doors & Fenders

Applied the self leveling seam sealer to the drip rail. Turned out very nice. Also completed blocking the doors and fenders and primed the outside for the final time.

[@snoopu2601]

That's what most youngersters don't understand is the prep work before the paint lays on is important. Sanding and sanding and blocking is work no other way around it. If you want show quality paint job.

[@StoutCustom]

Very true

[@markaubuchon2227]

Glad to see the PPE.

[@StoutCustom]

Gotta have it. 👍. Thanks for watching!

[@tcollier4017]

thumbs up for how that self-leveling seam sealer turned out. Nice!

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks!

[@uber2tuber]

Great vid! Thank you. Few questions please. How many beads of the SLSS did you run in the rail? Three? Do you just run them as fast as you can and then let it do its thing? I ask cuz it's a short 8 minute work time for 3M. What would you say the combined thickness of the layer of high build + SLSS is? Did you run the self-leveling over the edge of the tape, or keep it just below the tape? Sorry so many questions!... Gonna try to fix the drip rail in my 91 Chevy G30 myself, with a helper. Ive watched a lot of videos and I'd say your two on sealing the drip rail are the best! Ty

[@cawicker3410]

It ain't easy finding a competent artist/master of their trade to work on a beloved classic.

[@fishtacoguy]

Great series! Your attention to detail and patience are a lesson in themselves. Seams look superb too, look forward to following along and seeing the final build.

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks for the complement and thanks for watching!

[@bobatbilletcreations]

Nice job brother! Thanks for sharing...You are a true perfectionist and it shows in your work!

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks Bob and thanks for watching!

[@Brian-tg8ye]

That seam is on point. Great work as usual. I'm wrapping up my engine build now. I'm going to get back to the body in the next week or so.

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks!

[@nimblybimbly4002]

So good! Satisfying and educational. Thanks for including the details. I'm looking forward to seeing the transition to the inside and jambs, etc. and also what your rotisserie looks like.

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks again and thanks for watching!

[@chipchandler695]

I always blast and weld those seams solid. Then finish the windshield lip smooth. So much easier at glass time!

[@twistedc10]

Great video 👍🏼

[@StoutCustom]

Thanks!

[@faronensley417]

Looking good!

[@StoutCustom]

Thank you!

[@gladememmott3001]

How come you don't just hit it with an epoxy primer and then start on the drip rails and then move on the the rest of the priming and blocking? I'm new to this part of the game but I will be doing this to multiple places on my project. Thanks again.... Also I absolutely love this music who ever it is...

[@StoutCustom]

A lot of times there will be filler work needed close to the drip rail. If the seam sealer is applied before that it can be damaged while sanding filler or blocking on or around it. Although the functionality(waterproofing) will most likely not be affected, the appearance could be. That’s why it’s usually done after all the heavy sanding. Thanks for watching!

[@mkmbleed]

Nice work I recently purchased a 69 C-10 at which someone had already applied seem sealer but it cracked i want to redo it is there a way to remove the old sealer withou damaging any metal ?

[@StoutCustom]

@@mkmbleed you usually just have to scrape it out with a flat screwdriver or something. You may get lucky and have it peel out easily once you get it started but just have to try and see. Hopefully you can keep the damage to where it will be under the next layer of seam sealer

[@gabifilip9976]

👍✌

[@bctx3916]

I keep debating on shaving my drip rails completely....

[@StoutCustom]

I kind of like the factory drip rail and keeping it saves a ton of work. If everything is really custom like shaved handles, cowl panel vents covered, etc., shaving the drip rails goes along with that but.....dang at the work to do it.

[@SeanGSaxon]

Great video. You’re a natural teacher. Thanks for your time. How much material do you think you’ve sprayed so far?

[@StoutCustom]

Thank you. I think I just started on the second gallon kit of VP 2050 and I’ve used about 1/3 gallon of high build urethane. ...I think...

[@mickiematthews1881]

Jim, how do you keep the self leveling seam sealer from running down hill inside the drip rail?

[@StoutCustom]

You can’t keep it from running and how easily it runs depends on the the ambient temperature. The warmer it is the more it runs. You have to tape off at the bottom of the drip rail to catch the excess and keep it off the vehicle. Sometimes if the temperature is cool enough it will turn out just right first attempt. Most of the time you may have to build it up slowly with several separate applications or put on a thicker less runny seam sealer first, sand it smooth and apply a final coat of the self leveling to get it nice and smooth.

[@MAYCOCustomRestorations]

Awesome video and WOW that seam looks so good... Two questions for you: How do you go about sealing the vertical seem on the drip edge (or is that part reason for the rotisserie) and why did you cover up the rocker ? Thanks

[@StoutCustom]

I did the vertical at the same time. The high build self leveling I used the first time stays in place pretty well. I sanded it pretty smooth before using the self leveling the second time. The self leveling does run out the bottom a bit so you have to put tape and paper under it to catch the excess. If it’s too thick in that area it creates a drip within the seam. I had to sand out a couple spots before priming. As far as the rockers, I plan on working them while it’s on the rotisserie and will prime them with the door jams. Thanks for watching!

[@RicardoRodriguez-vs2rm]

Very nice work... I’m restoring a 68 C-10 I’m getting ready to primer and seam seal the drip rail.. Any extra tips? Also are all the blocking tools your using just pieces of ruler sticks?

[@StoutCustom]

Yes most are cut down pieces of yard sticks. They’re usually about a dollar a piece at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Sometimes I go to the paint department and ask for the 5 gallon paint paddles. They work great too. If you haven’t messed with seam sealer before, I suggest trying it out on something first. Maybe a seam that isn’t seen like on the floor pan or something. Even a short run of it on some cardboard to see how it flows out before you try it on what matters. Tape a nice straight line where you want the seam sealer to stop. Pull the tape as soon as you smooth out the seam sealer with a brush or your finger. If you let it set too long it will get stringy and make a mess. Let it set too long and the tape will not come out from under it. Also cover the surrounding area with paper. This stuff makes a mess in a hurry. I’m going to do some more seam sealing in the next week or so. I’ll try to make a more detailed video. Good luck and thanks for watching!

[@deankay4434]

I truly enjoy your work, explanation and methods of getting-R-done. Question; The SEM self leveling seam sealer is a great 2K for the drip rail as I am doing my own 1967 C10. What part number gun is used with these 7 Oz. tubes? This works great, but thinking ahead, what product is used on the vertical part of the same drip rail? A 1k SEM product or a technique you have learned that works? As an old dealer tech, this stuff is new to me and I spent hard earned hay money on my first 1965 C10 Apache and I guess, going back to my early years! Age 13 got you a license to drive for school or farm, I am lucky I grew 7” at 11 and had years with the truck driving a 4X4 John Deere shift for neighbor at 3AM to 9AM before first class started. I enjoy learning and saved your videos in a file for quick reference. Thank you!

[@StoutCustom]

SEM 70039 pneumatic or 71119 for the manual applicator. I like the 39777 for verticals seams. It works great as long as it’s not over applied.

[@deankay4434]

I truly appreciate the response with the applicator part numbers. I bet the pneumatic version is pricey but I have combination wrench from SnapOn (Part of set) that currently retail for $183, for one. But I have a SnapOn tool box and tools that no dealer has ever seen. Does that make a guy feel old? Or SnapOn dealers just young! Both, I think! Enjoy the lessons, technique and the humor. Dust Factory. Yah.

[@c10zane]

Looks awesome! My 72 could really use this...only thing is it has a full paint job, it's Lamborghini orange, if I were to do this on my drip rails, how far would I have to sand past the drip rails, about six inches?

[@StoutCustom]

You would sand anywhere you are putting seam sealer or paint. Usually the entire panel will get paint. If you were really careful you may be able to just sand where the seam sealer goes and then just paint the seam sealer but that would be difficult.

[@c10zane]

@@StoutCustom ok, thank you for getting back to me

[@carlosdanielmatias3759]

Good job!! What is the name of that seam seller? I like.

[@StoutCustom]

SEM self leveling seam sealer.

[@carlosdanielmatias3759]

Thanks.

[@kountrylr23]

Did you sand the seam sealer with 320 as well?

[@StoutCustom]

120 before second round of seam sealer then 180 and a red scotch brite before primer.

[@mickiematthews1881]

Jim, what is your day job?

[@StoutCustom]

I’m a tech rep for an automotive paint distributor.

[@mickiematthews1881]

Awesome, no wonder you are so talented at what you do.