C3 1980 Chevy Corvette Easy Instrument Panel Bulb Change

[@phillanassa759]

If you loosen the center "collar" bolts at the firewall where the lower steering support bolts, you can drop the column several inches, allowing the whole cluster to come out. When I service the IPC's in these cars, I like to clean off the oxidation on the PC membrane for the cluster and gauge pod in the center. The gauge pod can be accessed easier with the IPC out, you can get a hand behind it without being a contortionist. The entire center console , carpet sides and top plates, including the pad over the E-Brake handle in about 15 minutes or less. 4 Screws on each carpeted side, you have to slide the seats back and forth, and push down on the cushion to access a couple of the screws. Once the sides are off, there are 3- 7mm self tappers on each side, plus 2 # 2 phillips in front under the radio that are accessed once the center gauge pod is out. Obviously this is easier when the OEM radio has been replaced with an aftermarket unit and the CB radio is removed or not equipped on the model you own. I tool my 8 track and 40 channel CB out and sold them for big $$$ on Ebay, replacing it with a DIN style Kenwood with Changer, Satellite Radio, aux in, sub and amp outs. Anyway, with the pod and cluster out, you can service or replace the membrane PC boards, and replace all the bulbs and sockets at once, using LED replacements, then you'll never have to do it again. With the lower AC ducts out, the center gauge 'pod' out, you can access the center vents, and defrost vents, this is a good time to replace the foam that surrounds the tubing, which prevents the ventilation from leaking at the joints on the way to the various vents and outlets. Home Depot sells self adhesive 1" by 1/4" foam for this purpose, just ask, typically its around the air conditioning install part area. Also there are 2 bulbs which were once fiber optic on older C-3's, above the gauges, in the pod pod at the top of the trim plate, most people aren't aware of because they are hidden to provide indirect lighting to the ashtray and radio area. Usually they are burned out. With the IPC, POD and console out its a good time to vacuum, clean and detail the areas normally blocked when everything is in place. With the console top out its a nice time to change the bulbs in the PRNDL indicator window and HVAC controller as well. Cheers! I just did all this on my '81 this week, finished today or else I'd film a video. I've done other 78-82's cars I've either worked at my job (GM Technician) on or owned over the decades.

[@Daveloves]

Phil: So your who I needed to ask before I had to figure it out on my own. Your way sounds a little easier. By the way, my center cluster top light that shines on the ask tray area there was only a single place to input a bulb which there was nothing there except 2 metal plates that I finally figured out how to fix a bulb socket into it. Got it to work fine but only had the one spot. As far as dropping the the column I might have missed additional bolts but something was holding mine back from getting it any lower then a few inches. Now after owing my Vette for 15years I decided to replace my AC compressor and blower motor, I finally have AC. Worked great for a day but now it seems like the fan is not really blowing much air out the vents. I thinking that I might need to replace the foam you spoke of. Thanks again for your comment and it is much appreciated. If you know any secrets on the AC Blowing out the vents better please let me know. Take Care and Stay Safe

[@phillanassa759]

@@Daveloves Check the vacuum supply, from engine manifold vacuum T to the HVAC controller. Also make sure the inline vacuum filters and check valve are OK, not leaking or malfunctioning. Make sure you have 15-20" of vacuum at the HVAC control head supply line, without this, nothing works or works marginally when below 14". A stuck vacuum dashpot (the vacuum actuators under the dash which move the various HVAC doors, and open-closes the hot water shutoff valve) a failed dashpot or stuck door can cause your issue. If the HVAC system malfunctions, you get defrost and heat airflow only, this is so the driver can see and has heat/ac/defrost capability if the system fails on a rainy-snowy-damp day or night. The central plenum duct, left and right ducts benefit greatly from adding foam around the inner (smaller) circumference tube which fits into the outer tubes that slide over. The foam discourages air leaks. If you have little to no airflow, check the stuff I listed. With having the dash apart recently a vacuum hose may be pinched, cut or fell off-deteriorated. Make sure you have proper vacuum source first to the HVAC control head. This is a must for it to operate. The check valve is there to prevent the HVAC system from loosing vacuum supply when the engine is under a load, ie accelerating briskly or on a long uphill grade. The filter keeps oil and debris from engine vacuum supply out of the HVAC system which breaks down components, especially rubber hoses and diaphragms in the vacuum dashpots and HVAC controller unit. HVAC controllers do sometimes fail on these cars, you can replace some parts on them, but I opt for a new unit, around 120$ new online. This should point you in the right direction, a Mity-Vac vacuum test kit with hand pump is nice to have, lets you measure vacuum supply on everything including wiper door and headlight vacuum systems on Corvette and other cars, anything that has vacuum hoses and accessories. They are available at most decent parts stores and supply houses for under 50$ typically as well as online and are indispensable for vacuum system diagnostics. They can also be used to bleed brakes and evacuate fluids, which comes in handy, as well as for tune up work on older cars with vacuum operated emission controls and vacuum advance-retard distributors. Highly recommended to have in any tool box from novice to advanced, and essential for C3 owners with all the vacuum lines these have running everywhere for everything! Oh, make sure the blower motor is working at all speeds, and the blower cage ( hamster wheel) isn't spinning on the shaft. Its supposed to be locked tight to the motor shaft. There could be debris in the squirrel cage, mouse nests, snakes ( been there, it was alive and it was pi$$ed off) a fouled cage prevents airflow. Also check the high blower relay and resistor block under the hood on the HVAC case if you don't have all blower speeds or higher speeds. A smoked resistor block or relay typically means a bad ground, power connection at the blower or high resistance and failing blower motor. I have tips for replacing the blower motor if it needs it. These can be a real PITA if you don't know the shortcuts and I've done my share over the years as the shop 'vette tech. If I can be of further service or help, drop me a line. P

[@DoggyB22]

@@phillanassa759 You should make a video of this! Would be much appreciated lol

[@johnF56]

@@Daveloves ....probably the speedometer cable.

[@mikekurtz627]

This was really helpful and thank you. I purchased these bulbs and put them in my 79 Vette. However I found it was a lot easier to remove the front plexiglass and remove the speedometer and tach. Then I used long needle nose pliers and took the bulbs out and installed all from the top not having to mess with the column etc. Like you said you may have to turn them 180 for them to come on. So it was a lot easier and less time to do all from the top.

[@Daveloves]

So glad it was of some helpful information and maybe it put you on a path to find an easier way to get it done. I didn't know the front plexiglass could be removed. I was just going about it the best I could figure out. Thanks for you comment, Happy Cruising.

[@claudetorki1860]

What about the speedo cable ? You didn’t have to pull it out from behind the cluster ?

[@Daveloves]

Thanks for your question. No I didn’t remove the cable I just pulled the cluster out a little and leaned it forward to access the bulbs, even though it was easy to remove the cable if necessary. Good luck on your upgrade as it was not so hard.

[@jamescasello8100]

I was hoping to see how you actually removed cluster and installed bulbs. But the new bulbs look nice.

[@Daveloves]

Hi, Sorry but never took out the entire cluster as it was not necessary to change the blubs. I tried my best to point out where to remove the screws to pull it out enough to change them, without total removal as I didn't want to chance any issues removing the speed cable from the back of the cluster. Hope it gave you a little guidance for your own adventure on you ride.

[@nickmastrandrea223]

did you do the center console yet? I have a question about a missing socket on my 1980 L-82

[@Daveloves]

Hi, Yes I did the center console and I am thinking you want to know about the top center hole in the center. If that’s your question it’s for a bulb that lights a pin hole that shines on the ash tray area.

[@shonniebhida]

168 175 194 2825 ? thats some Bulb ? never heard of that before, is the pre 80 also dim poor illumination wise? and are they Green? also its there not a green plastic cover infront of each bulb, that needs to be removed as well.

[@Daveloves]

Hi John, I believe they are 168 just like the ones I took out, and even though they look white they are Ice Blue. No film to remove and No the dimmer won't dim the lights, but that's just the way LED's are made. No reason to want to dim since they are just the brightness needed. Perfect bulbs that do a perfect job. I found them on Amazon. First I bought standard Non LED Bulbs that were Red but seemed like to much red. Decided to go with the Ice Blue and turned out very nice. I would suggest to be smarter then me and use a little bulb grease before installing. I read that it a smart idea but that was after I was done.

[@rustyjames4962]

What kind of bulbs brand and size

[@Daveloves]

Hi Rusty, sorry for the delay. The bulbs are as follows: DODOFUN T10 Ceramics Interior Exterior Bright LED Light 168 175 194 2825 W5W Size Bulb Ice Blue Color (Pack of 10) Amazon. Very very nice indeed.

[@robertbaumann4742]

Love you man. Thanks.

[@Daveloves]

Hope it helped you out.

[@RAWRIMAP4NDA]

Is it way more difficult to change the center console ones?

[@Daveloves]

Not really, it's just like the rest of the dash, careful, slow and easy gets the job done and you'll find more then you think is missing. All worth doing.

[@RAWRIMAP4NDA]

@@Daveloves thank you if there is a video you can do that would definitely help because my lights don’t turn on anymore and I want to replace them with the ones you got.

[@Daveloves]

This is just a quick over of the job instead of a boring 2hr video to give the point out what needs to be removed and a short cut to get it done. If you do as shown it's really not that hard. I would need a camera person to follow through the entire process. If you need the seller or item number for the bulbs I can find it for you. Note: I did buy a box of bulbs sockets but the connectors did not match up very well, so better to just use a little bulb grease on the replacement to insure good contact. @@RAWRIMAP4NDA

[@ritagorka3602]

Can you also get to the turn signal bubs?

[@Daveloves]

Yes, very close to the steering column and a tight area.

[@mike79935]

These bulbs work on a ‘75?

[@Daveloves]

I would almost bet they would. If you have a ash tray light of this style plug-in then the dash should be the same.

[@mike79935]

I think they’re circular

[@Daveloves]

You’re absolutely correct I did look them up and they are round but yes they also have LED for the round bulbs to however I believe it requires a lot more work to get the bulbs in there.

[@DixieDawg71]

Where did you get your bulbs? Do the kick panel lights use the same bulbs? Thanks

[@Daveloves]

Great Bulbs so far. Yes kick panels use same bulb. Enjoy the difference. I Bought 3 pack, used 2 + 1/2 packs. If your looking for the same color it's here: Amazon DODOFUN T10 Ceramics Interior Exterior Bright LED Light 168 175 194 2825 W5W Size Bulb Ice Blue Color (Pack of 10) by DODOFUN

[@DixieDawg71]

@Daveloves Thank you

[@Daveloves]

@@DixieDawg71Your welcome. TIP: Use slight amount of bulb grease.

[@parkmccann8942]

Thank you

[@Daveloves]

Glad it helped.

[@lad63bird]

I sure would have like to see you do the actual work instead of after the fact!!!

[@Daveloves]

Sorry but was just pointing out the necessary steps needed to do the job. Working with dash lights and recording is much harder.

[@lad63bird]

@@Daveloves Yeah ,I understand, I have to do all that on my 1981 tomorrow but i think I learned enough from your video, it's hard shooting under that dash anyway, darn near impossible, thanks for posting it just the same. Very Good!

[@Daveloves]

@@lad63bird Tip, if you do the center cluster if the top middle you might have an empty hole which I had. You’ll need a bulb socket which provides an ashtray light that shoots straight down.

[@lad63bird]

@@Daveloves awesome i'm doing it right now!! TKS!

[@Groobl]

Removing the entire dash is only necessary for 1968 - 1977 Corvettes

[@Daveloves]

I believe you, but the only videos that were available were everything else, but not the 80-81 & 82