C4 Corvette Ball Joint Bushing Removal. No Drill Method. Aluminum control arms Rivet type

[@thaddeauscaldwell7101]

Nice video . I knew there had to be a better way , than drilling the rubber bushings and the ball joint bolts . I'll be using this method on my ' 90 Convertible. Thank you.

[@marknyquist3275]

Wow everything my dad taught me about handling knives was just violated

[@gm-pe5jl]

Just center punch and drill the rivets with a 5/16" drill bit from the top - a little less than 1/4" deep. Use a cold chisel and hammer to knock the ball joint off. Use a heavy punch (like a nail set) with the shop press to press the rivet down (get it moving), then finish pushing them through with a pin punch. This removes the ball joint and rivets, without damaging the aluminum arm (especially, in an area where you will need nuts to pull down straight and tight).

[@larrybud]

Yeah, he pulled the rivets through the arm the wrong direction.

[@troyleighton3150]

The holes aren't tapered so the pins can go either direction. My way (no claim to 'the correct' way) makes it easy since all four are pulled through with the steel ball joint assembly.

[@troyleighton3150]

The center punch method is likely the 'correct' way. By all means, my method may not be right for everybody. But, for folks that aren't confident with their ability to drill perfectly in the center of the rivet, or square to the rivet, this method is a possible solution. I've never damaged an arm by pressing the ball through with the pins. I've done a few of these. Like a lot. My first few I drilled crooked and damaged the arm.

[@larrybud]

@@troyleighton3150 The holes aren't tapered, but on the bottom there is a chamfer cut into the arm, so if you push it from bottom to top, you're squeezing the rivet flare through, EVEN IF you grind the rivit flush with the control arm.

[@KevinzGarage]

Thanks for making this, nobody seems to show doing this work…I may do this now. I hope you make an assembly video. Thanks again!

[@troyleighton3150]

I didn't think about an assembly vid. I usually use Energy Suspension for bushings. They pretty much slip in so it's pretty easy. The new ball joints are pretty easy too. I use Moog for quality. The uppers just bolt in with supplied hardware. The lowers press in pretty easy. A press is easiest but a bench vice will work.

[@KevinzGarage]

@@troyleighton3150 that makes sense. Actually seeing the work being done may have tipped me towards doing the job. Seems pretty straightforward. Thanks again!

[@mariocooldude9092]

Hard to believe C4's still have the original ball joints in 2024 😂

[@troyleighton3150]

Almost every C4 I work on has original balls and bushings. Almost every one very badly needs bushings. Balls are pretty decent usually. But I swap them since the suspension is apart.

[@ZBrink11]

​@@troyleighton3150What's the symptoms of bad bushings in C4s? And/or, how do you know if they're bad?

[@troyleighton3150]

@@ZBrink11 Usually your alignment shop will let you know. There's not a great way to test them without significant disassembly. You can try to get a good look at them but the rubber will look cracked even if they are still functionally usable. Most of my experience with Corvette suspension parts is for hot rods. So I am working with the suspension parts and not assembled cars. Once the arm is out of the car, you will clearly see if the bushing has failed. You could put a Go-pro up under the car, aimed at the bushing end of the control arm and go for a spin. There should be minimal deflection. Any real movement is a sign of bad bushings. Just looking at the bushing ends of the arms on the car, you're looking for signs the rubber is deteriorating. Not necessarily cracked, but pieces coming out, or the mount hole being oval shaped. The arm sitting in an un-natural position in relation to the bolt. Wear marks on the aluminum arm around the bushing. You will often see pieces of rubber that has obviously come out. Otherwise, you may have to remove the spindle from the upper and lower arms so you can wriggle the arm around without the weight of the car hampering movement. But, really, by this time you have them mostly out of the car and it's easiest to change the bushings even if they are still usable. On a side note, I prefer poly bushings for their longevity and firmer hold. ONLY Energy Suspension for me. The lesser brands are known to crumble. Don't let folks tell you the poly will make a harsh ride. Unless you have a very sensitive bottom, you'll never know the difference. If you're a racer and you are intimately familiar with every nuance of the car, you may feel the difference. But it's minimal.

[@larrybud]

my 86 still has the original. That will change soon!

[@gm-pe5jl]

I'm doing mine, right now! It's a 1992, with 90,000 miles on it. Given the fact that many of these cars have very low mileage for their age and were often garaged for their entire lives, They are far more likely to be original that other cars of this vintage...

[@KD_2Timez]

I have a 86’ corvette and I need new bushings in my upper and lower control arms. Would it be more convenient to change the bushings or buy brand new upper and lower control arms?

[@troyleighton3150]

Much cheaper to replace the bushings. But, as the video shows, it'll take some time to swap out the bushings. I have done so many of these that I can swap all four arms including the ball joints in about two hours. But a first timer should set aside the better part of a day to really take your time and learn.

[@KD_2Timez]

@ Thank you & yeah, it will be my first time

[@raphaelr8703]

Gotta say...methods are fine but your finesse is lacking!

[@troyleighton3150]

Finesse is overrated. ;) I am not a video guy so I was rushing, trying to keep it in one take and was maybe a bit nervous. I just wanted to put out a video showing what I didn't see anybody else showing. Obviously you'll want to slow down a bit and protect the arms from damage.

[@larrybud]

4:00 NOOOO. Don't risk it, put a brace to support the Y in the control arm. Ask me how I know! 14:50 pretty sure the rivets should have come out the other direction. We can see this by the recess in each rivet hole on the underside of the control arm.