Calibrate Your XY & Z Steps For Dimensional Accuracy of Your 3D Prints

[@Crusader4633]

Great rundown on how to do this; you should make more videos - you have a very clear and followable teaching style!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words! Currently I have 20 videos on the channel, Most aimed at getting peoples printers going good for them. I'm looking to put out more! Thanks for watching!

[@witebatman]

I really appreciate the work and time you put into explaining this so clearly. Thank you

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thank you very much for those kind words!! I appreciate them very much and I thank you for watching!

[@rangersammy]

This single video improved my prints, immensely!

[@pushingplastic7445]

That is awesome to hear!!! Thanks for watching!

[@rangersammy]

@Pushing Plastic I also found that after correcting the Z axis, X&Y printer narrower. It's probably due to Z sqishing the filament outward. Another cube, corrections made, and layer lines disappear 😀

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@rangersammy If the filament is pushing to far outward on the first layer and causing elephants foot as it's commonly called, you can enable Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion in the walls section of Cura's settings. Set it to a negative value that is equal to one half of how much is "squishing" outward. Example, if you are printing a 20 mm cube that is measuring 20.3 at the bottom, set your Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion to -.015. That will bring both side in by that amount. Thanks for the replay!! I know that doesn't help the overall height, but it will get rid any elephants foot you might see!

[@lllOXKlll]

Thank you sir. i calibrated my Octopus 1.1 Printer

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thank you for watching!!!!

[@LazyNightVibe]

Just a small note: at 4:15, the Z formula should start with (400 x 40), not (80 x 40). Thanks for the video!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Good eye! Thanks for catching that. I added a note in the description! Thanks for watching!

[@IceColdBold_]

What does ‘current value’ meant?

[@paulgrindley8192]

@@IceColdBold_ Current Value means what ever your printer shows as the default values in the "Steps/mm" menu in the Advance settings menu. The "Steps/mm" setting may be in a different location depending on your firmware. You should be able to find it under "Configuration" or "Advance Settings".

[@DrFiero]

Thanks for all this! I printed off a cube right after I got my machine, but then couldn't think what to do with all the data! It's also a good example of why enclosures are a good idea. When you're chasing small numbers, thermal stability of everything really helps. If I've just run off a part on my lathe and mic' it - then let it cool - I'll get a different number usually (depends on the shop temps!). In this case, it's not just the plastic. The frame of the printer, the bed... it all changes shape!

[@DrFiero]

Oh yeah, other side note: at around the 8:40 mark when you were measuring the cube. It's a good idea to slide the calipers down more so the jaws aren't touching the edges of the cube as they tend to flare out a bit (so you'll be artificially reading high) when printing. It's minor... but we're chasing tiny numbers right! :)

[@pushingplastic7445]

I agree with everything you said! I'm liking that more and more printers these days are enclosed. My older printers, I bought some of the metal shelves from Lowes, the steel ones, closed off the side and back, printed some tracks for Acrylic sliding doors to enclose those too. One boring weekend, I printed the cube at 40mm, measured it while it was still warm from the printer, again a few hours an then put it in the freezer overnight and measured in the morning. I was surprised to find a bigger difference from room temperature to warm than I found from Room Temperature to ice cold. Thanks, for watching!

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@DrFieroGood tip! No pun intended!

[@DrFiero]

@@pushingplastic7445 I picked up an enclosure for my Ender 3 V3 SE off the jungle site. $99 canuck bucks. Has the foil inside, door unzips from the front bottom right across the top to make changing filament easy. Velcro flaps on the side for cables etc. Ventilation fan and hose. And a flicker free LED light! Best deal I could find.

[@RyanGralinski]

your videos and format are great i've been printing a couple months and find your videos really most helpful and right to the point.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Awesome! I'm glad they're helping! Thanks for the great words and thanks for watching!

[@JoshuaWShanks]

I wanted to come on here and thank you for all of these incredible calibration videos! I've been needing to do all of this for a while and you've taken the mystery and guess work out of the equation. Really appreciate you!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Wow! I'm blown away by the kind words! Thank you so very much. Thank you for watching!!

[@heartcore7339]

thanks man... I am a beginner on 3d printing and I don't have a degree on anything related to this and this was way much more helpful than my friends were explaining to me

[@pushingplastic7445]

I'm glad to hear it helped! When just starting out, getting help can be difficult sometimes. I see it every year, especially right after Christmas, and that's why I started this channel last December. I hope that I have more content that might help you get going faster. If you have specific questions, don't hesitate to ask!!! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@scottbayreder8699]

Please keep 'em comin'!! These have been so helpful with getting to understand my printers.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thank you very much! If you have any topics you’d like to see me cover just let me in any of the comments. Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it!

[@scottbayreder8699]

@@pushingplastic7445 I'm not sure if one exists, but I wouldn't mind doing some kind of speed calibration, so I can have my printer print faster without sacrificing quality.

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@scottbayreder8699 I don’t know of one. I’m going do some research.

[@Information-Overlord]

Very good instruction! - One thing to keep in mind is that different materials shrink differently.

[@cetate93]

Thanks for breaking it down so well, I'm definitely saving this video to show to others having issues.

[@ebrahiemmurphy6506]

By the way it;s never too long, if long is what is needed for us to understand what you are showing to setup our printers correctly. excellent teaching, keep it up, you will gain a good following, I recently subscibed. Thanks for Sharing.

[@pushingplastic7445]

You got it!

[@TTS-TP]

I don't have this printer, yet the processes explained, were the most helpful I've found. clear, concise😁, and to the point.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks! When you get your printer, level that bed, do some printing for fun. Then get calibrating!

[@swagner58]

Awesome videos. Clear, concise and well shot. You tell us What we're going to do, Why we are going to do it, and then show us How to do it. I hope your channel grows and grows, best of luck to you. (and am I right in guessing that you are / been a teacher / technical instructor in a previous life?)

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for kind words! They are very much appreciated! But I've never been a teacher or instructor. I am a mechanical designer with 39 years of experience. I thank you very much for watching. My biggest fear on making the videos the way I do is that they might be too long! Thanks again for watching and keep those comments coming!

[@swagner58]

@@pushingplastic7445 If you're open to suggestions on topics, I bet a lot of people would benefit from some solid advice regarding print speed, and especially those mysterious "jerk" and "acceleration" parameters. As for length, I find that 10-15 minutes is sort of the sweet spot for me. But then I'm a gray beard like you and have a longer than tik toc attention span. 😀

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@swagner58 I'm always open for suggestions. I want to address the topics that makers are most interested in, so keep those suggestions coming! Actually, I'm putting one together for acceleration and jerk and their effects on ghosting or ringing. Mostly what limits speed vs quality prints is the vibration of the printer itself. I've seen people try to limit vibration by making feet for their printers so it can rest on squash balls while others reduced vibrations by setting the printer directly on top of a concrete paver. I haven't tried either....yet. But look for that acceleration and jerk video soon!

[@MechThumbs]

Your mic sounds like it from a radio show back in the 40s. not a bad thing, but a really soothing thing. Thanks for the great info. Need to try this.

[@Evilslayer73]

I love the sound of the video too he have a real radiophonic voice :)

[@xcloudx01alt]

Thankyou for explaining it so clearly!

[@ebrahiemmurphy6506]

I love your channel, I got the same version of Ender 3 and these videos come in most helpful. thanks for sharing.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thank you so very much! How are you liking your Ender so far?

[@ebrahiemmurphy6506]

@@pushingplastic7445 It's noisy but nice.

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@ebrahiemmurphy6506 They are good printers. Once you have them dialed in they put out a quality just as good as any other printer out there!

[@craig6053]

Another great instruction video. Dialed everything in to +/- 0.02mm on each axis.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Awesome! Thanks for watching! Glad the videos are helping!

[@CANDCLLC]

Thank you for making this video! It was well thought out, easy to follow, and easy to understand. I am trying this right now with my printer as its been having some issues printing dimensionally accurate.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@sebastienroberge9577]

This method really helped me calibrating my printer on the pin point! Thanks a lot!

[@HarryLBorst]

Thanks you made it easy for a grandfather, who's trying to fix his grandsons 3d printer.

[@pushingplastic7445]

I hope it helped!!!!

[@lindeleasley]

Great info. As soon as the current print gets done, I'll be doing this!

[@sto2779]

Excellent explanation, great way showing how the math is done.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@lilvfr400boy]

Best video I’ve found how to do this thanks dude

[@pushingplastic7445]

Awesome! I hope you can put it to use and it helps! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@kmeadows100]

Thank you so much. I have a Neptune 3 Pro that was going off by almost half a millimeter in different dimensions. It does not have the built in adjustments like the Ender but I was able to follow your tutorial and update them through Ponterface. Thanks so much!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Awesome! I'm glad you go it dialed in!!!! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@ljkauffman7770]

Your videos are always so informative they are really a big help ,have you had any experience with the Neptune 4 max

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately, I've never used the Neptune 4 Max.

[@HoiPolloi]

Just what I was looking for. Thanks!

[@pushingplastic7445]

I hope it helps! Thanks for watching!

[@Keyno77]

This was a very informational video I have been struggling with my e3v2 jamming and I think the issue might be the z axis is not raising enough and causing it to clog and hit prints midway. I cant wait to try your method! Great informational video keep em coming and the person complaining about the mic is the person that finds a fault at everything in life and overlooks the great things. 👍👍

[@pushingplastic7445]

In fairness, my mic setup was really bad!! I'm glad you found the information useful! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@Keyno77]

@@pushingplastic7445 you have one more subscriber taking the caliper home to start calibrating.

[@samu-x6772]

pecious advices, thx man

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@renedherblay7274]

solid, helpful material, appreciate your work!

[@billmartin6687]

What do you want for Christmas Dad... How about a 3d printed ( I'm 80 year old) what the ..........do I want a 3d printer for. Just spent all of January building it up. Mind you the weather was grim for working outside. After much googling never thought I'd use that word about learning. I came across your very helpful channel, now my 3d printer is fantastic. Thank you again for all hard work in making these. Looking forward to many more. Bill M8-) Scotland

[@pushingplastic7445]

You'll be surprised what you can do with these things. It's all about what you like to do. They're great for things around the house and repair. A few years back my neighbors wood fence broke free in the wind. I printed up a few bracket and attached it to my chain linked fence and it still stands today! You're never to old to get started, I think you'll have some fun with it! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching. If you run into problems jump back here on the channel. If I don't have a video for it, post your question on any video and I'll do my best to help out! Welcome to the club and thanks for watching!!

[@Mathoose]

Thanks for such a detailed walkthrough!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Glad it was helpful! And Thanks for watching!

[@amandabrown6790]

I found this when searching for a fix for my round cylinders coming out oval. Several sources on the web said I can't calibrate in the interface on the ender, it would have to be sort of firmware update, Yuck. I'm gonna try your calibration method, (as well as your others you mentioned.) Fingers crossed!

[@pushingplastic7445]

I'm sure this will work! Let me know of your results!

[@manfromthemist1958]

brilliant, i was just about to give up on dimensional accuracy on my ender 3, the parts I'm trying to print have to be within 0.001" and I'm still not sure it can get that, but atleast now I have a method to try, many thanks

[@pushingplastic7445]

That's a pretty tight tolerance! Honestly, I'm not sure if you can get that close or not based on the thermal expansion/contraction of the plastic! I pulling for you!! Let me know how you make out! Thanks for watching!

[@manfromthemist1958]

@@pushingplastic7445 Hi after watching your vid I printed the cal cube and carried out the changes to the printer, the item I'm trying to print is a hydraulic setting gauge for a valve in a David Brown Tractor with two holes in it to catch the fulcrum pin and position it while you set the clearence on the valves, the tolerences on the holes are detailed as + - zero, After calibration I got them to within a couple of thou, so I then created my own cube in freecad sliced it in Prusa and printed it out to see if there is any issues with the programs, rechecked the calibration figures, made some very tiny adjustments to the z axis, now we're down to under .002" and I'm happy with that, Many thanks for the video, I was beginning to think that thew printers couldn't achieve this level of accuracy, PS I print the holes at .375" but then ream them because as you say the shrinkage causes them to undersize, many thanks Barry

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@manfromthemist1958 You are the man! That's an impressive project and I'm happy to see that you're reaching acceptable tolerances! Seriously, reading that made my day! Thanks for that and keep on printing!

[@andyb7754]

Very good informational video. I've always used the 20mm cube but I'll try the 40mm cube just to see if there's any difference. I really like how you voice is synced with your mouth movement, good job!! LOL!! Thank you for your videos.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the feedback. The comments last week inspired me to put more effort into the sound sync! Thanks for watching and the comments. Good or bad, they all help!

[@AdrianoCasemiro]

Very useful knowledge, sir!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thank you! I appreciate you saying that! Thanks for watching!

[@JustAddGarlic]

my printer can only go steps in nearest 10th, so the closest i get is X - 99.95mm | Y - 100.02 | Z 100.00. should be rather happy with these results :) Fiddeling with your horizontal / hole expansion atm, cant get it quite right :P great videos man, you keep it simple and easy to follow steps. Should have found your channel earlier, i've wasted so many hours on different videos, telling me to "do this and that" and i dont understand why. The way you tell what do do, and explain why we do it, really helps understand the settings more

[@jamesc.7988]

This has been one of the best videos I have found on using the calibration cube and formulas to dial in a machine. I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo and an Ender 3 Max Neo that I am going to use this on. I do however want to know why you scaled the cube up from 20mm to 40mm. Also, I have noticed with my Max Neo that the height on taller 3d models is noticeably shorter than the same model printed on my V2 Neo. I am assuming this is due to z-binding but I have tried a number of fixes and still experience the issue. Additionally, I have found that moving the gantry on the V2 Neo requires very little force but the Max Neo requires quite a bit more to move it. I have loosened the dual stepper motors, lowered the gantry as far as it can go to align them and tightened them back up. I have also installed two flexible spider couplers and placed 4mm ball bearings inside of them for the dual lead screws to rest on. Finally, I have lubed the lead screws with a dry PTFE lubricant. Could it be the lead screw caps or the belt that links the two screws together causing the issue? What else could it be?

[@TonyCompton]

you're calculation on the blackboard, shouldn't that be (400x40)/39.88 =401.20 for Z?

[@pushingplastic7445]

Correct, I put a note in the video description noting that!

[@islandcomputers-c9g]

id like to know how i would go about calibrating it with the dial indicator. Do you have a video on that procedure

[@pushingplastic7445]

You need to print brackets to attach a dial indicator to your print to record movements in the Z direction and another to measure the x & Y direction. Zero the dial indicator and use your printers control panel to move the print head a desired distance. Record the values, do the math and then update the printer! I don't have a video for it. There use to be a lot of models for the different dial indicators out there. I don't know if they still exist of not.

[@hi-ccowboy7983]

Wow. This is good stuff!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks! I'm hoping it's helping people. Thanks for watching!

[@russellcollins5692]

Ultimaker 3 Ext, about to setup my first. This Fundamental Step will be what and how I do it. Excellent X3

[@tmooney0220]

Awesome videos! You helped me already with the g codes to adjust my e steps on the anycubic vyper. It worked great. I’m not to this step yet because I have some towers to print. But can you give me the g codes to save these settings to my printer through prontoprint? Hopefully I’ll have her dialed in this weekend. Thanks so much!!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Same codes and steps if your printer is running Marlin firmware, I'm assuming you mean PronterFace? The command prompt is at the bottom of the pronterface screen.

[@filessm]

Nice info. Thanks

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@dpscott000]

So quick question. After calibrating the xy and z steps do you still need to calibrate horizontal expansion in your slicer?

[@pushingplastic7445]

I don't. Some people do. I haven't had the need to leave it on. It's a great tool for fine tuning!

[@loczster]

Great video Just a little confused when you said the current value of the machine 80. What exactly did you meant by that? Im new to 3d printing and just picked up an Ender 3 the other day. Thanks!!

[@pushingplastic7445]

When you go to the LCD on your printer and select Control, then Motion, followed by Steps/mm, you'll see the current values (Steps), that are stored in your printer. See the 5:04 mark in the video. Also, in the video description, I made a note of where I typed 80 instead of 400 for the Z value. I hope this helps! Thanks for the comment and Thanks for watching!

[@loczster]

@@pushingplastic7445 Thanks and again great video.

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@loczster Thanks!!!

[@WinsTooLittle]

Your tutorials are god sent! i have a question tho. Whenever I try slicing the XYZ cube at 200% the slice fails but is fine when slicing at 100%. Any ideas?

[@Laienhaftes]

I am not sure if changing the steps per millimeter is a good thing on the x,y and z axis. The mechanics are that with a GT2 belt and 20 toorh wheel on the Stepper Axis you have 200 steps per full rotation which is 40mm of belt travel. With a T8 leadscrew you got 8mm travel per full rotation or 200 steps. Any dimensional inaccuracy is a result of e-steps, flow and filament expansion or shrinking.

[@pushingplastic7445]

eSteps determines how much filament is going through the extruder, your flow rate determines the amount of melted filament is coming out of the nozzle. While they can affect your dimensions with over or under extrusion, if you dialed in those alone you won't achieve dimensional accuracy. I would love to see the math on thermal expansion/contraction since all objects plastic, metal, paper....ect are effected by thermal expansion/contraction.

[@kencsaby5773]

great video - but how would you perform something like when you do not have access to adjust any setting the printer.

[@ruzzi3018]

Thanks you very much !!

[@MikelRChannel]

How do I adjust my 3d printer? It start to print 0.03mm above the initial layer that is supposed to. Therefore I am missing 0.03mm in the initial print.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Are you referring to the layer height? And do you mean 0.3mm instead of 0.03mm? You could handle that with the Initial Layer height is the quality settings of Cura.

[@Graeme758]

There is only minutes difference in print time between the 40mm cube and the 100mm three leg item. Personally I use the three leg item for increased accuracy. And Cura has several calibration models already installed, they are correctly orientated when you select them, so no mistakes.

[@Subypowa]

I got a question regarding the cube's orientation on the slicer. Shouldn't the X of the cube be facing to the sides?

[@pushingplastic7445]

The lines are printed side to side for the x axis, so the x faces forward on the bed plate. The y axis prints front/back, so the label for y does face the side.

[@juliomedina9398]

great vid

[@James_Blonde88]

I really like your videos, and they have been so helpful, but I did find a small mistake on your calculation for the z. I'm sorry, but 80x40÷39 does not equal 401. You need to take the current z steps per mm, which mine is 500, so it would be 500x20÷ I, right ? Please correct me if I am wrong. Anyone

[@Evilslayer73]

Hi im working under Marlin 2.0 bugfix on my Geeetech A10 i can change settings via octoprint terminal?

[@pushingplastic7445]

Yes you can! I also have an A10, I haven't used it for a while but when I did I would always run these commands thru the octoprint terminal!

[@Evilslayer73]

@@pushingplastic7445 Thanks a million time :)

[@TonyCompton]

Did you print the cube at 100 % infill or less?

[@pushingplastic7445]

HECK NO!!!! I printed the cube at 10 or 15% infill.

[@hornere1965]

One of the best tutorials I think I've watched so far thank you I think it's going to help me out quite a bit

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for those very kind words! And thank you very much for watching!

[@Joh750]

Where did you get the 80 number from. I do not have those X Y & Z options on printer setting nor are they on Cura settings unless I missed something?? I PLA and PETG do not produce the same results. The PETG models are smaller..!?

[@pushingplastic7445]

80 in my case was value already set on my printer. Your printer could have a different pre-set. Have you determined the right flow and temperature rate for your PLA and PETG individually and save that to your slicers material profile?

[@anguismemes1666]

Ty bro

[@pushingplastic7445]

You got it! Thank you for watching!

[@SnifterRoux]

When using the 100mmx10mm axis print how do I know if the Horizontal expansion is not the issue and not the E/Steps?

[@pushingplastic7445]

If you have calibrated your esteps, then you can immediately take that off of the list of possibilities. Then, make sure you’ve checked your flow rate. After that, do your xyz calibration. From there it’s horizontal expansion to tweak your print. Hope this helps

[@alecubudulecu]

Great video but I’m confused with one part - what is the 80 and 400 you have in the notes? You said it’s current value … of steps? How do I know what my machine is set to? Ah Nevermind. I see it in the second part of the video. Haha I was thinking it’s set in slicer.

[@pushingplastic7445]

No problem! I hope it helps and thank you for watching

[@thisolman]

Is there a gcode equivalent for the settings? I upgraded my board and display and no longer have the calibration from the screen.

[@pushingplastic7445]

You could connect your printer to a computer and use a program like pronterface, repetier host or octiprint to make the types of changes

[@williambehnke3381]

Another great video, thanks! I did the 40mm cube and got good results, with just .03 mm difference in the measurements. I then did a 20 mm cube, and the x &y were 20.03, but the z was 19.6 mm. I'm puzzled.

[@pushingplastic7445]

The Z can be a little tricky sometimes. It could be something as simple as a little extra squish on the first layer. But 0.4 over 20mm is still really good!

[@williambehnke3381]

Thanks for your timely response.

[@drinkingmicstand]

So why do we scale the cube up again?

[@pushingplastic7445]

A larger cube gives better results because it covers a larger area. The downside is the print time increases. There are x,y,z calibration axis models on Printables & thingiverse that span 100 mm in each direction are very useful for calibration.

[@jackwhitehead3074]

Where do you find these settings on the ender 3 KE?

[@pushingplastic7445]

The Ender 3 KE has Klipper firmware, this video is for older printers with Marlin firmware. Klipper firmware, known for its speed and responsiveness, can significantly improve the dimensional accuracy of 3D prints compared to traditional firmware like Marlin. In other words, you shouldn't have to worry about it. It can be done, but involves rooting your printer. Simple calibrations like Temperature and flow will go a long way towards getting dimensionally accurate prints. I would run those first. I have videos on my channel to help, and see how close your prints are to being dimensionally accurate.

[@velcrodreams178]

Hey thank you sir

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thank you for watching! Keep on printing the good stuff!

[@Digital-Light]

i'm using Anycubic Mega X is there a way to fix my X,Y,Z Steps? thanks!

[@pattygq]

How would I adjust this to work with Klipper?

[@giovannizotti8549]

please, link for temperature tower stl file?

[@pushingplastic7445]

Most slicers today have the ability to automatically insert and configure a temperature tower for you. What slicer are you using? But as per your request, here's a link to the temperature tower www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076/comments

[@ericperkins3078]

The Foster Brooks of 3D printing.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Sure, pick on the old guy!

[@ericperkins3078]

@@pushingplastic7445 You have to admit, the resemblance is uncanny! No offense intended!

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@ericperkins3078 I wish I had his on-stage abilities!

[@ericperkins3078]

@@pushingplastic7445 He was phenomenal, and reportedly a teetotaler as well.

[@vmen]

Does anyone knows how to do this process for the ender 3 v3 because the menu does not have those settings

[@jeffquenneville717]

An easier calculation is the DOG (desired over gotten) method. Desired measurement / Gotten measurement x current calibration factor = new calibration factor.

[@pushingplastic7445]

I'm not sure what makes that easier? It's not any harder but it's not any easier and the result is the same. (current x desired) / gotten = new calibration factor, it's the same number of steps with the same result or am I missing something? Thanks for watching and keep those comments coming!

[@leibi]

That's the same formula only written without brackets 🙈

[@nickolascastillo4019]

Will this work on other creality printers? Like the CR6 SE and Max Neo?

[@pushingplastic7445]

I can’t speak for those machines specifically but I used the same method on my Ender 3’s, Ender 5, Ender 5 Plus and Geetech A10M. If you can access your xyz steps from your LCD screen you’d be able to do it as shown. If not you need to connect your printer to a compatible via a USB cable and use a program like Repiteir Host to send gcode commands to get & set your values. Thanks for watching!

[@nickolascastillo4019]

@@pushingplastic7445 I appreciate the feedback back I'll try it and let you know for future reference.

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@nickolascastillo4019 thanks! I look forward to your feedback!

[@leibi]

it can happen that you get other errors through slicing and printing, which then affect the calibration with this method!! Isn't it better and more correct to have the nozzle moved 100 mm in each direction and measure the actual path and use these values ​​to carry out the x,y,z calibration? Update: I did a quick read. It actually makes no sense to make this calibration dependent on a 3d print! because the steps come exclusively from the hardware of the printer. Therefore (as described above) they should only be calibrated with them (like the E-steps)... or am I wrong?

[@pushingplastic7445]

The video points out that the more accurate method would be with a dial indicator measuring the travel. Many people in the 3D printing community don’t own a dial indicator. The method shown provides an alternative to those without dial indicators. The video also talks briefly about the behind using 20 mm cube and a 100mm cuz printed axis.

[@rtlofishing]

Using your math why did the z come out to 400. What was calculated differently

[@pushingplastic7445]

At 4:15 in the video the formula should read (400 x 40) / 39.88 = 401.2 instead of (80 x 40) / 39.88 = 401.2. There is a note for this in the description

[@rtlofishing]

Thank you for the quick reply. I am a newbie printing and still trying to figure a lot of this out so I need to look in my machine and get my base setting first as how yours was reading 80 correct and 400 on the other one and you multiply that times 40 which is the 40 mm of the cube correct And I rewatch the video several times looking at how you were measuring the block and it looked like you measured the same axis twice. I will go back and rewatch things again.

[@rtlofishing]

My NP3 pro doesn’t give me the option to adjust that in the menu. I was able to do flow rate and z steps. I have travel options but my numbers look much higher that yours and I don’t want to mess it up.

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@rtlofishing Understood! When in doubt, leave it as it is. How accurate are your finished prints?

[@MTKnockOut]

Yeah I woulda bought you a mic bro

[@yamie8548]

Flow has to be calibrated Steps are calculated by the rotation ° and translation Calibrating steps is a myth on the web that is impossible to get rid of Fist cube: X: 40.37 (+.37) Y: 40.14 (+.14) Z: 39.88 (-.12) If the steps are calculated 80 80 400 this would mean: X & Y to high = to much flow Z to low = wrong Z offset (nozzle too close to the bed) Second cube: X: 39.74 (-.26 Δ .63) Y: 49.9 (-.1 Δ .24) Z: 39.86 (-.14 Δ .02) Now with wrong steps X & Y now both to low Z still to low, Z offset wasn't changed Try this, ignore Z without being able to set a correct offset Print cube 40x40x40 with original steps Print cube with 80x80x40 with original steps If your error from cube40 is half of cube80 you might have a problem with your belt/gears/stepper If the error is the same or almost, it's the flow not the steps Btw if you calibrate e steps, and keep flow constant this needs to be done with every filament Best, keep e steps constant by calculation and set a flow for every filament profile (flow is a variable for the material, e steps are for the machine and are fixed)

[@pushingplastic7445]

Flow is calibrated, true. In fact I did a video for that. Your idea of steps being a myth is a myth in itself. It's simple, calibrate your eSteps to determine how much filament is going IN the extruder. Calibrate the flow to determine how much filament is coming OUT of your hot end. Your Z-Offset has nothing to do with dimensional accuracy. Once you know how much is coming out of your hotend you have the necessary information to work out dimensional accuracy. You calibrate your X, Y & Z steps. Your Z-Offset is to make sure your nozzle is at the correct distance from the print bed. Of course you'll want this set properly for bed adhesion. Your ESteps, X, Y & Z are set at the machine level. The flow is set at the slicer/profile because the flow should be figured for each filament brand & type just like you do for temperature and retraction. In fact I recently did a video on setting up a profile in Orca slicer where I ran a 20mm, a 50mm cube & a 100mm with the same settings that demonstrates that it works.

[@mmmmate5884]

z calculation is wrong, should be 400 instead of 80

[@pushingplastic7445]

Yep, it's in the video description

[@kokodin5895]

why do people keep doing this this way? this is a flawed method because it asumes there is no volumetric error if you going to calibrate steps per mm you need 2 different size prints to rule out the error because using just one cube would make any print different size wrong dimensions again. from one cube you can only calibrate flow rate!! if you don't have a dail indicator simply home the printer heat up the nozzle with dark filement in it and stick a piece of paper to the table with some tape so it wouldn't move then simply scratch known size square on the paper by moving x and y axies by known length for example 100mm staring from some random point on the paper but not directly from the edge if you draw a squate back to starting point you just measure the square with calipers if the nozzle don't go back to starting point exactly, you first have to fix motion system slack and surprisingly if your belts aren't stretched tey you will get stock values of steps per mm every time from this point you can calibrate the flow on a cube and size of the cube does not matter because you only calibrate how much filement is expanding from slicer assumed line width and it is highly dependant on filement diameter being correct for slicer to calculate the flow correctly

[@pushingplastic7445]

People still do it this way simply because it works. There have been countless articles, tests and videos on this subject. The number one method would be with a dial indicator. But as noted in the video, most people in the 3D printing community don't have one. If you have one, great! But I'm not going to tell anybody to go buy one when this method has been tested and proven to work.

[@kokodin5895]

@@pushingplastic7445 you don't need a dail indicator, you just need a rooler or calipers, and i can tell you one thing , this method with single cube made me very unhappy when i trayed to print bigger prnt using prusa slicer dividing in parts and printing them on 2 printers at once. i had to reprint the smaller part on the other printer because the size wasn't the same from printer to printer, and they both were calibrated with single print method, but strangely by using default settings and calibrating flow parts from printer to printer fits like a glove. every tool can be used the wrong way nd this is one of those cases, change to filement from a different manufacturer and your cube will be wrong again, change nozzle size and it will be wrong again. this work for people having one printer printing one size object fiting a hole roughly the same size all the other saces you would have to recalibrae if you do it smart you don't have to calibrate anything other than flow and slicer would do the rest for you regardles of the size of the print of nozzle because your belts and driving gears very rarely change size

[@baby-turtle]

Or you can compensate by making dimensionally accurate models in the first place... Most models i have found are in no way dimensionally accurate. No scale just what someone thought lioked good. I've had trouble with my printer but not with accuracy when i use my own models. Most people do not model with layer dimensions in mind

[@pushingplastic7445]

Sure, accurate models are a great start. In my day job, I'm a mechanical designer. I have been for the past 39 years. When I design for 3D printing applications, I design with layer height and wall thickness in mind. I've also found that not all printers are created equal. Parts printed on one machine can give different results than another. You'll want to dial in your printer, especially if you have multiple printers running parts for the same project. You're going to want to make sure those prints are going to mate together properly. Thanks for watching.

[@jimnadeau2122]

Your math doesn’t work for Z

[@pushingplastic7445]

Read the video description, down towards the bottom

[@graphguy]

DUDE.... fix your microphone!

[@bravefastrabbit770]

DOOD... Quit being such a fucking snowflake

[@adrienross8458]

Must have scored it cheap off a pewtuber after a meltdown video 😅

[@thebrokendrummer-155]

DUDE…. leave the man alone!

[@claytonpurcell1582]

It's not even that bad

[@abdulalkharaz6117]

You’re so pathetic lmao.. shut it and learn something new

[@Vistal11]

Maybe spend 60 and get a really good mic samson q2u. your mic is quiet and sounds like a tin can

[@pushingplastic7445]

I've been working on the audio, it's gotten a little better but still needs work. I'm going to look into the q2u on your recommendation! Thanks for the suggestion!