Campagnolo Cranks SUCK! HAMBINI DESTROYS (Feat. The Lick: Time Scylon)

This video shows a well engineered bike frame, the Time Scylon and a Campagnolo Super Record crankset and how to make them work together. This is the first thread together BB I have made, I would not recommend this type unless your frame is absolutely perfect
If you are thinking about getting a Campagnolo crankset, then be aware of the quirks of the preload system. The Campagnolo system uses an interference fit onto the axle and a wave washer on the OUTER rings of one of the bearings. Insufficient compression would result in excessive play under load. Ceramic beraings such as these CULT (Schaeffler) bearings require large amounts of preload to the point where the wave washer is almost flat.
Learn more about the campagnolo bearing arrangement here :
www.hambini.co...
Website:
www.hambini.com
Merch www.hambini.co...
Links to stuff I use
www.ntn-snr.com NTN Bearings
www.skf.com SKF Bearings
www.mitutoyo.com Mitutoyo Measuring Gear
www.knipex.de Knipex Hand Tools
www.facom.com Facom Hand Tools
www.mazak.com Yamazaki Mazak

[@michaelmcloone4647]

You made a few mistakes. 1. If the frame was so well made the Campagnolo cups would have worked 100% fine and would have been lighter than your BB which appears to have been just an engineering experiment for you. 2. You left out the safety spring. The bolt that holds the Hirth joint together can fail if it is over tightened. With the safety clip you can at least maintain some control of the bike if this bolt fails. With your design both cranks will come out of the frame should the bolt fail. 3. The preload should be on the left side. This along with the safety clip means the chainrings are always locked in the same position relative to the front derailleur. This is important for consistent shifting and chain retention. 4. The bearings have a seal on the outboard side which you would have seen had you taken one off. They are only open on the frame side. The white seal that you highlighted does not make any contact with the bearing. It forms an additional seal between the axle and bb cups. 5. You stated something like the axle had as much stiffness as a rubber band. This is clearly nonsense.

[@Hambini]

I have pinned this comment as it covers almost every query that others have commented about. Going through in turn 1. Campag cups have no method adjusting for preload. There is a massive variation in spring tension in a wave washer +/- 15% and the frame can be +/-1mm ie range of 2mm wider or narrower than the quoted range. Campag cups make no allowance for this. CAMPAG cups also have no centre sleeve so the EPS/di2 wires would be rubbed to nothing by the crank axle. 2. That "safety spring" is not there to stop the crank falling out if the bolt should fail. It is a very crude method of axial retention on the drive side. effectively two prongs from the clip attempt to to hold the bearing in a fixed position. The issue here is the clearance to the bearing is generally around 0.5mm and the pin itself is flexible and only restrains on two points. Accepted guidance is 4 point retention or complete retention (collar) 3. It is totally irrelevant which side the preload is on UNLESS one side is COMPLETELY FIXED. Cutting through a campag crank to produce a section shows it's symmetrical at bearing level, the side of the preload is related to the bottom bracket and not the crank. 4. The seal you mention will touch the bottom bracket and generate drag in that form. 5. Engineering sarcasm.

[@michaelmcloone4647]

Yes I do sell Campagnolo. I use Campagnolo, build bikes with Campagnolo and service Campagnolo. So I am familiar with it. I can say the same for the other component brands. What about the safety clip? Don’t you think it is an important feature? I also sell Shimano and SRAM. I have sold just about every crank and bb there has been since the early 1990s. Of these Campagnolo has fewer failures than anything else I have sold. I personally have not had to deal with a single Ultra Torque crank failure since it’s introduction about 15 years ago.

[@Hambini]

@@ottokovacs2045 I've updated the comment above for you.

[@Hambini]

@@michaelmcloone4647 I updated the comment above and pinned it because it covered most of the points.

[@theillegalimmigrant9314]

@@Hambini The campagnolo crank doesn't have a centre sleeve so the hydraulic lines and di2 wires touch the axle?

[@markpritchard3707]

Wish I’d watched you 10 years ago you’d have saved me a small fortune, I’m a marketers dream, from the 3k plus frames to the best zipp wheels money can buy in the pursuit of saving seconds, I’ve always said Zipps are crap in the wind and I had a Bianchi frame once that was so bad it spent a year in the lbc trying to be fixed, bottom bracket just wouldn’t stop freaking creaking in the end they gave me a new frame, sold it straight on and would never buy from them again, 3.5k and they tried everything to get out of admitting it was heap of shit. Also after years of rip-off upgrades to ceramic bearings I’ve finally seen the light. Keep up the good work, we need honest decent clever chaps like yourself to keep these bandits in check.

[@asmallsol]

Hi Hambini. SKF test engineer here. One of the huge benefits of the TN9 cage is the polymer can retain more oil than it steel counterpart, improving lubrication properties. In addition, it is much lighter. For a 61806, that difference is minimal, but larger bearings, it can make a difference. The TN9 cage is commonly used in high speed applications for these two reasons as it's "the lick". Don't ream me too bad.

[@ThePaulKat]

Holes can be picked in a number of Hambini’s “Engineering Facts” on this one I’m afraid.

[@alan-sk7ky]

@@ThePaulKat er i don't think you could describe ANY bearing in service on a push bike as being 'high speed' so erm...

[@ThePaulKat]

@@alan-sk7ky agreed

[@paulwebster4499]

Colin would you recommend trying to grease the open bearing on the inside open cage prior to installation, bearing in mind I'm not Pogacar and don't produce millions of watts. I am looking for longevity between services

[@SgtFinaldo]

Sunday's are better when a Hambini vid comes out. In fact, any day is better when a Hambini vid comes out.

[@rogerwilliamson7161]

Apostrophitis?

[@Mario_1980]

Only here to say that the first Hambini 386Evo BB is still working great on my Time Skylon. Thanks again, Hambini from Spain.

[@billpetersenjr.5781]

Having preferred to ride quality high-end steel frames for decades I've ridden Shimano and Campagnolo and found that the quality and long-term reliability of Campagnolo far better than Shimano for road components and now I'm riding Campag's new EKAR setup on my gravel bike and it doesn't disappoint. Will let you know in another 10 yrs how the Ekar holds up while my ridding pals are on their 3rd or 4th "upgrade" w/ Shimano or SRAM.

[@abeerismail]

I don't really care about group sets, bottom brackets, bearing, tolerances... But I love watching your videos!! And your bottom brackets are simply beautiful! They need to be in a museum!

[@romainbclt]

Just bought a titanium bike with campagnolo record cranks on it, I was so happy and then this vid comes out, literaly 1h after

[@reginaldscot165]

Well, you got the frame right and the good news is titanium frames are better built than carbon (if it's British or US made not some Chinese one) and the BB shells are precision cut not moulded so you won't normally have any tolerance issues. 👍🏻

[@DaveCM]

Doesn't mean you will have an issue.

[@ChrisBrown-xf2ce]

Preload worries on thr menu

[@astrayagrarian]

@@cccpkingu meh

[@bb1039]

I have a roasted Cannondale, and it works; the pro peloton display many roasted brands; shows it can work, though the downside is that as a normal consumer stumbling across a bad product is unlucky; and sadly the consumer pays too much..

[@tednruth453]

Quite an operatic opening 😲

[@nickbea3443]

Castrato level

[@Jayneflakes]

Thanks for another fascinating video, you are proper educational, with an almost perfect use of swearing. On another note, I use TIME pedals and have done for years because they are fabulous.

[@YuriThorpe]

I adore my time pedals.

[@YuriThorpe]

@RollinRat The newer ATAC pedals are made of plastic while the older ones are made of metal iirc.

[@joebolan4082]

Still using the original Time road pedals. Now if I could find more of the cleats. God, I might live too long . . . LOL

[@ousqa]

Fabulously expensive though

[@thebikepackingadventurer]

That was my WMF threaded bb. Shocking really. Just to let you know the bb you fitted for me is running a dream, bedded in nicely and running very very smoothly. So much so I can feel a big difference compared to the old knackered one. I highly recommend anyone to spend the extra and get a quality bb made, my friend also bought one and super pleased. 1000’s of miles will now be enjoyed noise free and running perfectly

[@christopherhood9241]

i have champagne ekar which is so different to what you have their. preload is installed on the left. spins nice and free.

[@VaibhavTipnis]

I see the Hambini logo on screen for more than 5 sec, I know the Haalloo hambini fans gonna be loud af

[@habibkamal5504]

Quit cycling but will never quit Hambini. Amazing vid as always

[@AndreasHappyfarm]

There's an internal seal located in the bearing cups that seals against the axle on OE Campagnolo units. Thanks for the video. I enjoyed watching as always

[@panchoxbrr301]

You showed one bearing having a transition fit on the bottom side of the bb and an interference fit on the top. I don't know how you managed that but it is some next-level awesomness. Finn

[@colinandkerry]

Work of art on both the install tools and bottom brackets. Keep up the videos perfect Sunday viewing for me. 👍

[@jeffwharton9084]

Clearly don't get the ultra torque system. If that frame was as close to spec as you reckon, if you just pressed in the official cups, used the wave washer and torque the bolt correctly that would never give any trouble. I've been using Ultra torque on various frames for over 15 years and never had a single problem. I've 3 bikes running Super record cranks with the open bearings all of them over 5 years old and used in all conditions and still on the original bearings. All are in open frames with the bottom bracket exposed. Fucking around with shims on the inside of the cup will just void the warranty. The only shims necessary on ultra torque would be to shim the cup out on a frame that is too narrow. If you think shitmano is better it's difficult to take you serious.

[@lethalstrike]

That's my thoughts as well, Jeff. But Hambini himself said the preload can't be adjusted if we use the Campy cups on this frame. Why would the owner want to adjust the preload if things are likely to work out the way it should be?

[@graemefk6519]

@@lethalstrike You don't need to adjust preload. It's a total red herring. The BB, if it's within Campag's +/-0.8mm tolerance for width, will preload itself correctly with the correct wavy washer. Preload has a tolerance, just like all criteria in engineering. The preload is as specified by Campagnolo's bearing partner and Campagnolo have done their engineering to take account of it. Witness a threadless headset - only one maker I know specifies a torque for the preload bolt. or, a Shimano HT2 BB instructs the user to tighten the pre-load "finger tight". Is that a 5 year-old's finger tight, my finger tight when I was 20, or my arthritic 56 year old finger tight? There's a tolerance.

[@AB-fh9zh]

I'm so happy I've learned to turn the volume low when starting a Hambini vid.

[@victorrodriguez2806]

I love watching your stuff! I'm not an engineer. I love the way all of my Campagnolo eguipment works, performs and lasts. I have well over 10 bicycles, most with Campagnolo. Modern 12 speed and old 6 speed. I'm a realistic man and understand that mass production can and will have flaws. But for the most part all bicycle brands try to give quality parts for thier customers money. Otherwise they'll be out of business. It's just a bunch of fun watching you tear apart the onesy twosys that come into your shop. Keep it up!! It's extremely entertaining!!!

[@NG-xw8ik]

That intro!!!

[@iSOisoleucine]

YES

[@androschpandrosch1273]

man, missed you dearly! Good to see and hear from you. Yeah! 👍

[@glennoc8585]

I think you might be the first recorded male to be going through reverse puberty😯

[@ChrisBrown-xf2ce]

No that'll be Mork from Mork and Mindy

[@painstruck01]

chapeau!

[@justahappyfellow]

I don't think he evered entered it. Like the rest of us.

[@diobruttoporco]

I have the older power torque Campagnolo crankset, the drive side bearing is integral to the axle and slides into an empty BB cup, the non drive side bearing is instead fitted inside the BB cup, and the axle goes trough it as you assemble the crankset. The non drive side crank arm is bolted to the splined end of the (steel) axle, between the crank arm and the BB cup goes a rubber ring gasket and a wave washer that creates the preload. So far I've done loads of miles and I'm still on the first set of bearings, still smooth, still no noises of any kind... Perfectly silent.

[@lawrencesingleton2153]

Provided the fixing bolt provides sufficient tension, the Hirth joint is perfectly stiff... I expect Campag have engineered this correctly, they have been using the Hirth Joint for a while!

[@johndanter7834]

This guy wouldn't know that as he's still using a retracting tape measure 🤔

[@knife1406]

it's fun to see you talk about different brands, looking forward to it if you talk about bianchi and colnago, maybe cube or felt. love the videos!

[@labelJohn]

For those not splashing the skylon/custom BB cash, I lucked up on a slightly older Campy Athena crankset for $40 at a bike recycler. They didn't have cups for it but the tech there had already worked out a hack that he was using on his own bike. Before I could think it through, he ripped of the campy bearings and replaced them with used sram bearings and gave me a set of used sram cups for my BSA frameset. No wave washers, no bearing seals, nada. Creaked a bit at first but a tech at a proper campy shop suggested a good greasing. I've put about 2000 happy miles or so on it so far no issues. If after a few more mile the bearing were out (which I doubt), there are plenty more where they came from in the bin. I love it. I've ordered a set of a campy Ultra Comp Over-Torque cranks for my new build. Which seems like a total loophole in the system. They were produced only briefly. But according to Campy themselves, they are lighter and stiffer than super record, and with 30mm axles, have better compatibility to other bb systems. Over-Torque is a terrible name though ; probably has a better ring to it in Italiano. I also think 110 BCD is where its at for maximal chain ring options . We have some decent hills here where I live and I'm tired of the 135 BCD 39/53 dinner plates.

[@cheesesandwich1236]

Are we supposed to trust an engineer who wears onesie pyjamas and has a princess blanket ? And he doesn't like engineers with hoodies?

[@JamesSocialCycling]

I have the wheels Manufacture on my Emonda alr, new bearings fitted and every time I get out the saddle I get the horror creaking, which didn’t happen before. We did have some issues fitting it due to the frame on one side being out, measurement wise. As usual, great video with a A1 frame and still managed to get some roasting in😊👍

[@pgee70utube]

Hambini has a geekgasm because someone put a hole in a bike. But this one is ROUND! It would be interesting to know if they did mill that BB hole, or if the roundness is a function of the resin transfer moulding that Time use to make their bikes. + I fitted a SRAM force/ with dub to my Time Fluidity and it works great - the Fluidity has a BB30 with aluminium sleeve bonded into the carbon.

[@monty2078]

I love this. I do not know anything about this stuff, I just enjoy watching the expertise. Wonderful in this day and age

[@monty2078]

Sorry, this comment was meant for another video but ended up here, sorry, but, I do love your videos

[@DerFilmgucker]

I ride a silver Campy 11 group, and needed new chainwheel. The Centaur crankset was $130, so I went from Power Torque to Ultra Torque. It was the easiest BB/crank install I ever did, and it took less time than watching this video.

[@RoryMacdonald-pfff]

Best outdo ever … “ahh balls” 🤣

[@garysprojects]

My fav intro of all time!! 😂😂😂 can’t wait to make intro mix tape part 2 💕

[@Hambini]

I'm waiting Gary. the first one was good, would you mind if i linked to it?

[@garysprojects]

@@Hambini wow I would be honored!!! I tried replying with the link just now but my comment might have gotten flagged. 🤔

[@Hambini]

@@garysprojects I've posted a link on my community page!

[@mortenreippuertknudsen3576]

You forgot the driveside retainer clip!!!!!!!!! Please check campagnolo's manual, its what will make the wavewasher preload work as intended. The BB shell you designed is rubbish and overcomplicated & hope you know you need to torque the ultrabolt to 40-80nm! otherwise the hirth joint wont be stiff and you will mess up the preload as well. NB only the ceramic SR bearrings are open. The steel ones on Potenza, Chorus and Record are not.

[@Hambini]

I'm only 5 and stupid.

[@ottokovacs2045]

@@Hambini www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_40_Technical%20manual_bottom%20bracket%20cup_Campagnolo_Rev03_03_21_ENG.pdf

[@mortenreippuertknudsen3576]

@@ottokovacs2045 its this one www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_2400_Technical%20manual%20-%20ultra%20torque%20crankset_12s_Campagnolo_Rev04_03_2021_ENG.pdf

[@mortenreippuertknudsen3576]

@@Hambini still, the retainer clip (spring) is essential.

[@rcg9573]

@ Morten Reuippert - Your Campag components are overpriced garbage. 😀😀

[@stormrider1119]

Watched the intro thrice. Sublime.

[@simonwarmer8777]

The master of tight engineering strikes again, people.

[@seahog32]

I came for the critique but stayed for the assembly too. It's like one of those ASMR videos with the added benefit of swearing.

[@st3ppenwolf]

Dooode, I am positive you installed the preload system on the wrong side!! the preload washer needs to go on the non-drive-side. I did that the first time I installed UT cranksets and the amount of drag I got was something, so I knew I had done something wrong.

[@Hambini]

It makes no difference. The tension applied will go to both bearings, it doesn't matter which side the wave washer is on. it tries to "stretch" it outwards.

[@Hambini]

I should caveat that with, it depends on the manufacturer of the BB. On this bottom bracket featured the wave washer was installed correctly. Other manufacturers may put it on the other side. And if you are BBinfinite you screw it up totally by omitting it.

[@st3ppenwolf]

I am not sure how you designed your bottom bracket but if you are using campagnolo bb cups, there is only one correct side you can install the washer on, and that's the NDS.

[@ottokovacs2045]

​@@Hambini Where is the retaining spring? The campagnolo BB is far better (I mean perfect) than your solution. I use NTN bearing, but the Cronitect is the best bearing in the cycling world.

[@ottokovacs2045]

@@Hambini Floated drive side crank? That's nice...

[@robertoperfecto9041]

I lasted two minutes. I'll nominate this person as most annoying cycling presenter on KZbin.

[@HOG4DNR]

You Rule HAMBINI - Thanks for always telling it like it is, now if only our leaders could follow your lead

[@graemefk6519]

The trouble is, he doesn't. See my comments on his notes. It would be nice if he was accurate.

[@user-uh6lm5wv6n]

Lol hes been owned by people here who actually know what theyre talking about

[@Hambini]

@@user-uh6lm5wv6n Yes Graeme FK a computer programmer.

[@user-uh6lm5wv6n]

@@Hambini which makes it even more embarrassing for you 😂

[@hectorkidds9840]

I've used a Wheels manufacturing screw together BB on my CAAD12, BB30A to 24mm. It runs nicely, but it's not very well made, the threads are a bit slack, but because the threaded section is quite thin it stretches and the threads jump before the design torque is reached. No damage to threads, and it's fine so far tightened to less than spec, but if would be better if it was built like that one with the threads in a bit with some substance to it.

[@dsonyay]

@Hambini - very good video! How long does it take to machine your bottom brackets? They are a work of art. Also…. How much time do you have in the week to get in some good bike rides? How often and how long do you ride? I’m sure you have a long day and coupled with making KZbin videos, it seems you have little time for biking. Merci.. David Broussard, Louisiana

[@piteiracorp]

had a mouthfull and almost spit all of it laughing with that intro

[@atxplus]

Hi Hambini. Just off topic I wonder if you can engineer a chin rest to keep my head in the opimun position 😊

[@billcaveny9495]

Glad to see that normal service has been restored..👍

[@Photo3838]

My first serious bicycle was a Getane (spelling) that my parents gave me in Junior high. It was an amazing ride. I spent every summer evening riding around town. Then I bought my second Gitane with mid tier Shimano. I rode that bike until it was stolen while in college. So my brother gave me his Junuet which I rode for another 10 years until the BB seized. French bikes have a special ride quality that can't be replicated. Look is probably the ultimate French bike. I've been riding a SEVEN Axiom custom Ti with a Look fork, stem, and seat post. If LOOK would make a Ti bike, I would be first in line. SEVEN makes really good frames for endurance bikes for century riders like me. I told them that I loved the French bike feel and geometry. Well, they made a really good frame for me that feels good but is very American. Lesson learned is to buy a French bike if you want that special French ride. I'm just not sold on carbon. My French bikes were all steel frames: sweet rides, but heavy.

[@retroonhisbikes]

Where have you gone.

[@Simon78]

I only ride a shitty old cheapo GT whose tolerances were pounded into the dirt years ago.... but damn I do love some honest info on these high end bikes and gears. 👍

[@Fetucinee]

Question about the location of the wave-washer/spacer preload. Wouldn't it make more sense to have them on the non-drive side? Such a configuration would maintain a fixed chainring-front derailleur distance because the preload is always pulling the crank spider inboard. As Hambini assembled the works the chain-line moves with the width of spacer used doesn't it?

[@Hambini]

If you put the wave washer on the other side of would still move the same amount. The washer provides a force not an axial position

[@graemefk6519]

That's actually where it is supposed to be. The spring clip should be on the drive side. You can't actually fit the BB system to spec, the way it's shown here. Hambini is right in that which side it goes, if you make a horlicks of the assembly as has been done here, makes no difference to the preload but if you try and fit it beneath the D/S bearing and fit the clip, which is the correct way to use the parts supplied, you will find that you can't ...

[@Fetucinee]

@@graemefk6519 I'm referring to the wave washer not the spring clip. This Park Too video illustrates: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3XOaqamat2FoaM Now I don't completely agree with Hambini's indifference respecting which BB side the wave washer and spacer should be installed. As others have noted default chain-line shifts when the spacer and wave washer are on the drive side. I acknowledge that can still momentarily happen but only if pedalling exerts an opposing axial force greater than preload--this does not strike me as a likely occurrence, but I confess I don't know. The linked Park Tool video (featuring a BSA BB) clearly shows the wave washer going in on the non-drive side. I'd like to think the rationale for doing so is what I outlined.

[@graemefk6519]

@@Fetucinee We might be talking at cross-purpose, and having just re-read what I wrote, it's actually open to misinterpretation. Apologies. The wave washer should go on the non-drive side, and the spring clip should be installed on the drive side. If you try to instal the wave washer and the spring clip on the drive side, it's something between very difficult and impossible, there's not enough depth in the cup to accommodate the wave washer under the bearing with the spring clip in place in many cases (it is possible sometimes because of small variations in the manufacture of the cup and the spring clip). You are correct that the default chainline *could* change - the wave washer should "pull" the DS bearing back against the floor of the cup, so more-or-less fixing it's position relative to the FD. It can't do that if it's fitted the other side - in that case it will tend to spring the crankset "away" from the frame and there's no limiter on that except the NDS bearing "bottoming out" in it's cup. You are correct - I know quite a few riders who have ridden UT without a spring clip ubntil it's purpose was explained to them - in cases where the BB is relatively wide vs the specification, the bottoming out of the bearing against the combination of the floor of the cup plus the wave washer on the NDS has been adequate to control the movement of the crankset sufficiently to allow good FD function and for chainline to be correctly maintained - where the BB shell is a long way undersize, towards the limits set in the spec, and the rider generates enough lateral component in the force he / she puts on the BB axle to move the crankset sideways, if the spring clip / wave washer assembly is done incorrectly, yes, the chainline and with it, FD function, can be impaired.

[@michaelevans691]

Thanks for another great video! I have a 2018 SWORKS Tarmac SL6 with 16K miles. The BB has always been pretty good but it's starting to require adjustments, tightening etc. I'd like to upgrade/replace the BB. Can you recommend something?

[@felixjackson2670]

Love your videos....but been riding Campag Record in its various forms since 1968...but always in threaded BB..never electric though

[@felixjackson2670]

@RollinRat yep. The Nuovo Record headsets,bottom brackets,hubs,pedals bearings and seals as good as it gets..pump some White Campy grease into the hubs until it oozes out each side once a year!! Stuck with. Campag as I like the engineering and style. Dura Ace hard to beat performance wise..just not a fan of bits of plastic through the Shimano range,especially shifters. Shifting very smooth though!

[@dragade101]

Congrats on leveling up!

[@waynemakka1324]

“ French engineering brilliance “ you are to be applauded for your sarcasm & Irony, though to be fair Alonso did Finish the Spanish GP, a couple of laps down though, Campagnolo is Rubbish- said No body ever, still every Village has one & you’ve passed the audition, perhaps if you tighten the axle bolt before you test for flex, you may get a different result , though most Pre teens would struggle to know that An entertaining review that lives up to your usual standard.

[@Hambini]

The stiffness is generally regarded as the stress limit in the sidewall. A hirth coupling cannot sustain a high level of stress in the sidewall because it is not a perfect joint, there will always be done very small gaps which cause the lack of stiffness. Tightening the bolt will help but it's still far worse than a unibody construction

[@taktischekartoffel]

I had these POS FSA Cups that would walk their way out of my LOOK 765 Optimum Disc frame on each ride. Got jip of it. Ripped them out. Put in a Wheels MFG threaded bb with no issues since. I still want a Hambini special like the one in the video due to the cable routing nut staking up space in the bb.

[@ronlargecock7775]

Time (previously referred as : Time Sports) (stylized as TIME) is a French manufacturer and Hambini thinks they're wonderful. No surprises there...

[@soterman77]

Oh yeah, he's back!!!

[@EdMontego]

Hi Hambini, you must make more Vids. Do you still have Problems with the cocky GCN Hag?

[@Hambini]

All will be revealed shortly!

[@rap819]

Thank you I do all my bicycle maitenace and i’d decided a year or two ago to go back to Shimano (1996 .. changed to Chorus from Ultergra) mainly for parts when I ride abroad or outside of Sydney/Melbourne. But now ………. mechanical design as well.

[@2wheelsrbest327]

Totally agree with you H about Campag. I have a Veloce triple Bianchi ML3 ( I know , I know the cheapest one) and I decided to change it to a Compact CS and because its Italian I stuck with Campag. Why I don't know , well I do because I wanted to keep it as Italian but it came at a price. You need specialist tool to fit the BB , pair of expandable grips with rag wrapped around the BB sorted that. You then need a big si sided sn ipanner to fit the NDS pedal. That was sorted by using a bolt head. And even then wrapping the bars was awkward as the lever hoods have locating spigots. As for using those levers give me Shimano any day. I was however pleased to see you mention the drag on the cranks as mine have the same problem and I just thought it was due to my lack of mechanical skills. Can I take the liberty of asking you a question. And it is , can you change the freehub on branded Bianchi wheel from a Miche to a Campag as I would like a lower gear than the Miche 25t but I am blowed if I can remove the hub. As always enjoying your videos and still awaiting after ordering it a couple of months ago the Chinese frame you wee impressed with. Probably on that ship that docked in the Suez canal.Off to look at your Polar lights video.

[@Hambini]

You've hit the nail on the heat there, the campag bearing change requires a gear puller WTF.

[@mrndlprsnr]

my experience of a campag hirth crank is limited yet stunning in the short space of time i experienced it. i was riding and then i heard a wrenching noise and my crank stopped rotating. no frame damage but bike is very regularly maintained by a proper mechanic with decades of experience across all groupsets. basically the washer in the middle of the joint had failed and campag had kindly changed the bolt that joins the crank and it took a few calls to chicken to rectify. eventually i got sorted but swore (many times) to never use campag again. bike has sat stationary for a year....i have options

[@joer.k.5418]

I see you. I click. And then fast forward 20sec. I realize that something isn't right. I play from the beginning. Then i heard that lovely greet 😂

[@jpragmatic7759]

Hey Hambini! Love to see your content as always . Just a note 40:47 I think you are mistaken! Trek have the slightly narrower T47 standard at 85mm instead of 86mm to accommodate a larger lip on the BB for the tool. So it’s everyone but trek who has this problem. Best

[@MiroMateev]

Cool stuff! Why are there the notches on the side away from the thread? Wouldn’t that be confusing for the user trying to disassemble the BB one day not knowing exactly where the threaded side is?

[@andrewlipsiner9791]

Always entertaining and informative content #timebicycles certainly produce exceptionally well designed and uniquely designed and engineered Framesets that also are visually STUNNING ‼ Still not clear what the fit issues of #campagnolo specific BB 386 cups in this application are.... With the essentially , perfect BB tolerances in the TIME frameset ...

[@ihanatom]

Great stuff as always. What’s your opinion on the Wheels Manufacturing bbs? I’ve got a couple fitted and they spin well and don’t creak (both with a few thousand kms) so I assume they’re ok?

[@karlzhao314]

I'm glad for another confirmation of what I always suspected was a bad idea, but seems to be used way too often in the bike industry. I always hated wavy washers used to preload bottom brackets, and I'm glad it's not just me. On another note, based on your endorsement I treated myself to a Time Alpe D'Huez frame recently. I don't have the measuring equipment to measure a press-fit bore, but that bottom bracket went in so smoothly and hasn't uttered a peep during riding. Looks like you weren't kidding about their manufacturing and tolerances. Any thoughts on Rotor cranksets? I chose one based on the fact that they have a threaded preload ring rather than a wavy washer, but I was wondering about their manufacturing.

[@paulwebster4499]

All frames should be to the above standard, most top-end carbon framesets are around 2k. Surely, ALL manufactures need to tighten their QC and only supply THE LICK to their Customers

[@knife1406]

I have to manage my volume so much at the start of these videos

[@4nz-nl]

No you shouldn't. Your neighbors deserve to know you watch Hambini. I think this is his marketing strategy

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

With those faces and the gap added to protect the frame the Chainline on BB386 is affected. The threaded BB systems (Press Fit+ Threaded) the faces are right up against the frame due to Chainline issues. The Q factor is okay but the cranks on BB386 are not the same as others as the angle is lower ( almost straight). Not sure if those campy cranks have the same angle as BB386 Evo cranks.

[@adttrdat2212]

Another great vid from the worlds formost authority on bicycle cranks! Hambini, different subject but i would appreciate your opinion on whether carbon forks are better with an alloy steerer tube?

[@Hambini]

I would avoid anything with an interface. one material is better.

[@chrishophoto]

While I normally agree with you, it is obvious that you don’t have a clue how Campagnolo bottom brackets are designed. There is a retainer clip on the drive side to secure the drive side bearing (missed that in your remedy), the wave washer goes on the non-drive side against the bearing, (you got that wrong too). You complained that because the outboard seal was not integrated into the bearing, it was an “open bearing,” but didn’t even bother to look at the bearing itself. Had you pulled the bearing, you would have seen that the bearing itself indeed does have an integrated seal, and the external seal is only there to protect the bearing from splashes, and dirt. In your design, you place the wave washer in first, then outboard of that, you put your shim in there, which is supposed to slide up against the bearing. Of course, if anything foreign gets in there or there is any corrosion, I guarantee that your shim is going to freeze up, making it impossible for that wave washer to do its job of keeping the interface snug but not tight! In Short, you missed on so many of the details, it’s embarrassing. When my Ultra Torque chain sets are assembled on my bikes, there is zero play, and they spin freely. I normally agree with your videos, but in this case, to use your terminology, you are a Fuckwit!

[@Hambini]

Read the pinned comment

[@borisjimenez446]

What grease would you use for headsets cranks etc. 👍🏼

[@Hambini]

chip fat

[@astrayagrarian]

Please review one of those Pragma framesets that Durian Rider sales

[@asquare9316]

Thank you for another great video, Mr. Hambini. I have a question for you: as a resident of Hambinibikeland, I agree with you that Time bikes and Look cranks are the shizzle, is there a way to fit a Look Zed crank to a Time bike (Fluidity or Scylon)? thank you for just a simple yes or no answer.

[@Hambini]

No

[@asquare9316]

@@Hambini thank you

[@edwindude9893]

Have you ever reviewed Cyfac frames ?

[@not-a-raccoon]

I was in the car watching this and the into legit made my ears ring 🤣🤣🤣

[@robertspelman-marriott2366]

@hambini love the BB videos.. facinating! I have a GXP BB and Sram force 10 speed crankset... Im getting rubbing on my front mech and all i can think of is the BB is just wrong on my CR1.... Can you shed any light on the quality engineering that is GXP!?

[@Hambini]

I think Rollin rat pretty much covered everything

[@johndanter7834]

I find it interesting you explain what a wave washer is for and then proceed to reassemble the BB in an order rendering it useless. Not only that, you didn't mention the clip once. There are a few other things you've got wrong, such as the seals on the bearings. Pull them off and have a look Do you actually understand how these BB and cranks work? If its OK with you, I'll trust the engineers at Campagnolo But I agree on the Time. Perfect

[@Hambini]

The spacer is simply a spacer, it doesn't matter if you put it before or after the wave washer. If you can't understand that concept, I suggest you read the SKF technical handbook.

[@johndanter7834]

​@@Hambini dude, I'm sorry to be so blunt here, but if you don't get the fact that they have to be fitted right up against the bearing, (the way campag have designed it all) you're just showing your complete mechanical ignorance. It's all designed to certain tolerances and forces. It's a certain thickness, has a certain tension all designed to hold the race correctly. You adding your own spacer which has messed all that up. **** You didn't add the clip! ***** So that's why you're seeing movement when others don't Your BB shell is also on a thread, **** so it's width can change ***** You've measured it with a bloody retracing tape measure :) Fairly simple to trick users by doing what you've done if they know no better..... And you just so happen to have a 'solution' that you sell And we are not on about what SKF say, we're on about what Campagnolo say you should do in their carefully designed and mathematically tested systems. I can't believe I'm typing this, you're the expert

[@johndanter7834]

@@Hambini Do you think a wave washer would have the same compression force apllied on a bearing when it's sat behind a 10cm wide spacer as it does when in front of a 10cm spacer and actually touching the bearing...? (Clue: the wave washer now has to use the force tied up in its compression to 'move' the 10cm spacer sideways as well as try to apply pressure to to bearing in one setup. Yet it doesn't have to move the spacer in the other setup) You're a smart lad. I'm sure you can work this one out. I'm sure you've even got a formula for it somewhere

[@Hambini]

the friction from the spacer is 3 tenths of nothing, it's only 3mm thick and an F fit?!?

[@johndanter7834]

@@Hambini stick to your retracting tape measure experiments dude

[@dirkbodschard3961]

I understand you from an engineering point of view. However, I never had problems with Campagnolo cranks in real life. Having said that, I agree that open bearings with attached lids a sub-optimal. I replaced them with "2RS" bearings and didn´t add the then obsolete lids. No problems whatsoever.

[@andreasr6632]

I really dont understand why Campagnolo didnt secure the main fixing bolt with a counterthread bolt say M8 left hand threaded from the drive side . They wouldnt have to make axle bearing safeties and bearing cup retaining pins and crap. Or they could just use a set of Nord Lock safety washers and be done with the whole fail-proofing measures. Again for the play of the crankset to to the wider axle dimensions they could just add PTFE shims outside the bearings and solve that issue as well.

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

I remember first seeing Ultra-Torque at a Campagnolo Tech Seminar and scratching my head about the issues you demonstrate here. But it seems once you make a proper BB shell for the thing to go into it works OK, no? I believe Campagnolo publishes specs for BB's which kind of admits this setup's not going to work perfectly if the bike's BB is, to use your terms....shiite? I maintain a small rental fleet with Ultra-Torque cranksets - the bikes are aluminum so the BB shells have been tapped, chased and faced to meet Campagnolo's specs. I had one noise issue, solved by taking things apart and adding more grease to the BB shell threads. The biggest flaw here IMHO is the same as everyone else' on the big crank spindle bandwagon = the bearings end up being too small since the spindle is large and the space for the bearings didn't get larger by much when they went to the external cup setup. I don't think ANY of 'em last as long as the old-school, square taper setups...but of course those are SO much heavier...and unfashionable, untrendy, etc.

[@neilwinkelmann8540]

Pre-load on the drive-side? Never seen that. Why?

[@povertyspec9651]

I ride Super Record Ultra Torque and it's been flawless.

[@cdalesupersix]

Dude, you're missing an essential part. The retaining clip on the drive side. Stops the axle floating in the bb. Wave washer instals on the non drive. Campy cup has the required holes for the clip. Like the precision and engineering of the time, superbly nice to see it can be done.

[@Hambini]

I've updated the first comment and pinned it, have a read of that.

[@RReese08]

Thanks again for a very illuminating video. As I always tell people about you: You're the gadfly the bicycle industry needs and deserves.

[@galenkehler]

I wonder if it would be worthwhile to add a threaded preload collar (like what many other cranks do like rotor). You'd decrease the bearing width slightly, but the tradeoff would be a proper preload adjustment mechanism.

[@graemefk6519]

Only if a torque specification for the preload system was included ... because otherwise, the mechanic is just guessing at the level of preload being applied. Rotor give a spec of ~1nm ... i.e. "approx" 1nm, so not a very exact measure. No better, no worse than Shimano's "finger tight" preload cap or ... a washer of known properties, compressed within a known space.

[@Michael-it2jz]

Congrats on 69k. Nice.

[@mycoachdave]

Great video! What crankset & BB would you have recommended for this frame?

[@Hambini]

Rotor or Shimano

[@bradcomis1066]

Why not use a wave spring and dispense with the spacer between the bearing and the wavy washer?

[@hglenn55]

I only use Campag except for the crank. I have 2 10spd record bikes and 1 11spd record bike. All FSA cranks. Say what you want about FSA but compared to everything else I've had they are bulletproof.

[@hglenn55]

@@cccpkingu and I should give a flying fuck... why?

[@simonorr594]

I have the older Campagnolo Super Record carbon cranks - 11 speed 5 arm - and they have the threaded outboard bearings. I guess that's a better solution for reliability. What does Mr. Hambini think?

[@WeRideSouth]

Holy shit that Hello Hambini fans intro was amazing. LOL

[@sloopjohnbable]

my birthday is on may 18th, now i have a present to look forward to :)

[@chrishoyt7548]

Oh Great Hambini...I hope your voice gets better. You are 5 of course. I just saw your Cervelo BB vid. I just bought a 2015 Cervelo R2 carbon frame new old stock. Is this frame and BB shite as well or because it is an earlier frame is it just good? Greetings from Canada thank you, Chris

[@Hambini]

You really need to measure it!

[@chrishoyt7548]

Thank you. I've had no problems yet it is smooth. I just need 6 yrs of trouble free riding from it then I switch to touring riding.

[@chrishoyt7548]

Yes I will thank you...I will take it to my Dutch bikeshop...lol... Once done I will send you the results. Thank you, I may order a BB from you later next Spring. Greetings from the Canadian prairies. Chris

[@ad9898]

Tried to find the volume before the intro, failed, now suffering shellshock. You'll be hearing from my lawyer young man🤔😅

[@Ghostina1]

Campa Ekar 13s is great. Best wishes from Koblenz...

[@googlekonto2851]

Most opinions and bikes that recently came out of Koblenz are trash.

[@gabiology77]

I heard that after Hambini's ground bombing a "Make Koblenz Great Again" movement initiated.

[@Ghostina1]

@@googlekonto2851 totally agree.

[@Ghostina1]

@@gabiology77 hope so. Maybe the new Belgium owners give him a job.

[@keithevans5667]

My god intro was fabtastic, welcome back 🙏 woo hoo

[@AkashDingare]

Can you do a breakdown on Grease and lubricants ? Is it really worth spending top bucks for lubes / grease.

[@Hambini]

www.hambini.com/grease-for-bicycles-a-practical-guide/

[@AkashDingare]

@@Hambini Thank you 🙌🏻

[@mcspikesky]

I love your videos. Fortunately I have a Chinese mid drive, therefore no bottom bracket to worry about. It's great, machined cast alu and meaty bearings. Bafang life

[@galenkehler]

Why not add a third bearing right in the middle, at the hirth joint? This would account for any radial flex at the joint.

[@galenkehler]

Could be a roller bearing, without seals because it's buried inside behind the other bearing seals so wouldn't add much drag. But the increase in bearing alignment could really save under heavy load