Camshaft Positioning Sensor: How To Time V6 Mustang And 4.2 EFI By Hand

[@mustangboss5056]

man, great video! I hate when people just talk and ramble, your video hits the main points and throws in tips. You explain things in a way that other garage diy mechanics can understand! I rarely comment on videos, but when I see a person doing a video because they want to share the information and not just try to advertise themselves I have to say Thanks and excellent job!!!

[@Greg-yu4ij]

Yeah that was perfect

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

I did this on a head gasket and new timing chain cover. Chain, and oil pump, and new cam position sensor. The 1st time, we did it , we was off 1 tooth and the car was running bad and very hard starts. Then I did it a second time , WITH YOUR DIRECTIONS AND NOW THIS 97 MERCURY COUGAR RUNS GREAT. Excellent video.

[@blu4.33]

I just built a 4.3 stroker and was having a hard time figuring out the camshaft position sensor bc I didn't mark it. Thanks to this video i got my car up and running.

[@dang8134]

Great video. Clear, effective, real, and you are working hard to not waste your audience's time. I talk pretty fast in my videos too. Helping with the goal of a public service announcement. Thanks for bringing it to us. Respectfully, Dan, Et. Al.

[@Sublimed89]

I am on day 2 of changing a bad 4.2 on an f150 and am about to pull the timing cover to reseal it. Thank you for the in depth detail in the video!! Huge help!

[@davidd.barton2488]

Thanks for the video, it's a life saver money saver... ur the man.

[@buttonysquare8501]

Just so you know, as long as you have the balancer in the right spot and the special tool for the cap on, you can put it in any direction, it doesn’t have to be 54 degrees that way. You should but it won’t screw anything up unless you don’t have that cap on to hold the spinning piece. I put a 3.8 out of a 97 mustang in a 2000 mustang and the block is exactly the same. The 97 has it like 58 degrees to the left instead I believe. It only changed direction because if you try to put this in the other way on either one it hits the coolant bypass pipe and you can’t plug in the connector. But I have run it around 60 degrees both ways and it ran the same. They moved the bypass pipe, changed the camshaft position sensor, and changed the intake and heads in 1999. I traced the wiring up originally and actually got the 97 one to run with the 2000 ecm and 97 heads, fuel injectors, and intake. But I eventually put the correct stuff on because the 2000 had 40 more horsepower stock and it wouldn’t quite idle right.

[@buttonysquare8501]

I also was able to get a set of 5 caps that hold it correctly for $12, standard motor products on Rock Auto. The most important thing is holding the rotor part straight with a tool and getting tdc, which is a pain on the particular motor you have because the balancer doesn’t have any numbers on it since it is internally balanced I believe. It went internally balanced in like 2001 or 2 and you can’t do what I did with the older motor swap if it is one of those cars.

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

Thank you for sharing this info!

[@buttonysquare8501]

@@MustangV6TechSupport If you think about it it is the same as a distributor. As long as you put the distributor in at TDC and face the rotor at #1 on the cap you can set in anyway, but you need enough room to turn it back and forth for timing adjustment. Those special caps for the synchronizer hold the spinning piece in line with the cap sensor and it is considered #1 at 0 degrees of timing and the computer takes it from there. I believe all it does is make and break a magnetic contact on the cap as it spins around. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKHFf6GabM2drKs This guy explains it at 4:15

[@JohnCrowe-sh4jk]

Thanks for your videos I'm in the process of getting this 99 3.8 running didn't know about the weighted and non weighted flywheel and now lifters are noisy so gonna check them

[@davidmiller9284]

So fellas I just got done fighting with this. Let me tell you, if I would have done this job step by step EXACTLY how he did it, I would’ve been done days ago. So, I fought tooth and nail because I fudged up. I created no marks because I thought I knew what I was doing. Don’t do that. Make your marks, find tdc (MAKE SURE ITS COMPRESSION STROKE, AIR WILL PUSH OUT OF SPARK PLUG HOLE IF RIGHT) and then after that, it’s just a step by step procedure on what to take off first in order to take off another part or put it back. Basically guys, if you follow what he says word for word, you’ll get it right the first time. Don’t do any cheap ways or put it in the way it comes out. Just tdc it and follow the instructions.

[@JtRocks]

I bought my 3.8 a while ago and this was all that was wrong and I swapped it out piece of cake. I just made sure I aligned everything as perfect as I could

[@Mechanelectric]

Great video from start to finish, i have a coolant leak and need to replace the lower intake gasket on my 99 f150 180kmiles so i'm thinking to replace all gaskets and timing chain while at it, but i didnt know how to do the TDC until now, thanks for sharing!

[@2000mustang6]

Hey man I'm building a twin turbo rear mount v6 mustang. I've got 0.20 over bore block and pistons all forged internals, lowered compression, roller rockers and guides, comp turbo cam, 5 layer head gaskets , ported lower and f150 clamshell upper, 60lb injectors, I think the pump is a 310 I'm not sure. Got custom widebody panels and hood, just alot going on. I'm happy to see another v6 mustang builder. Great work on explaining the cam syncing. I will be sharing your channel with other v6 modders. God bless brother.

[@mikeh8506]

Hey, thanks for the info, I've had a performance cam for a while and have been unsure of timing for the sensor and the balancer. Just watched the cam install video too. 👍

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

Thank you, down to the point video. I just rebuilt a 3.8l v6 ford eng. And everything was great. Except it sort of had acceleration issues, slow acceleration, like 25 percent decrease in power. When I put the CPS in , it was close but not exactly 54 degrees. I just eye balled it, and figured as long as it was close, the PCM would fine tune it. Thar was wrong, your video is the correct way. I haven't driven it much, so hopefully I can still fix the CPS and get the fuel injection timed just right. Thank you because the Ford Service Manual directions are NOT clear how to find 54 degrees TDC. The factory manual sucks.

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

Even the service manual for the mercury cougar messed me up, your directions should be in the service manual.

[@ericorta8196]

Thank you so much my brother, dealing with a 3.8l same deal .

[@juliandelgado3653]

Awesome video. Thanks a ton.

[@98RudolphXmas]

So do I get it right? I just lock the positioning sensor to the notch in the wall around it and make sure I have the dots on the inside of the engine all lined up with the first piston at top dead center and all I need to do is to find a perfect angle so the bolt hole lines up with the one that's supposed to secure the sensor into place? Is it that simple? I'm from Germany and rebuild my engine currently so finding stuff here is extremly hard.

[@classicstangbrn8964]

You didn't mention the fact the oil pump drive almost never lines up you you have to bump the motor for that, but you answered the question for me

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

Sir, let me get this straight. So, is it possible to check my CPS timing in your manner of the trifecta, and if the CPS is not 54 degrees on sight, then the fuel injection is out of time and must be pulled out and then reinserted at the 54 degrees. I'm not sure, BUT WOULD THAT BE RIGHT TO GET THE CPS IN SYNC? THANKS FOR THE INSTRUCTIONS, JUST THAT FINAL QUESTION. With only adjust the CPS out of the bore, no adjustments while in the bore, because it slightly moves the engine. Is all that right?

[@fiber6343]

Are these steps still necessary if I’m just trying to replace the timing chain cover gasket only ?

[@myfalconry76]

What if you rebuilt a f150 engine and your putting the cam shaft synchronizer in for the first time. Do you just put it at top dead center on a compression stroke and put it in? I rebuilt the engine. It’s never had one in it, so I’m wondering just put it at top dead center on a compression stroke put a liner tool on stab it in there

[@tonymartinez2738]

I have a 99 mustang 3.8 the black sensor has a crack on it which resulted in check engine light will I need to do this if I just want to replace the back piece?

[@hubertedge2178]

How can I find the camshaft position sensor for a 1984 Ford LTD 3.8l fuel injection engine?

[@Chucotown915.]

I just got a Mustang with this problem previous guy messed up the cps i have put the engine top dead center and placed cps on correctly the engine started and ran then just turned off what could I do to really fix this issue ?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

@@Chucotown915. read check engine light codes as cps sets off a code and clears once corrected

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

Let me get this straight, this method can be used for ford 3.8l stock v6, right?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

Yes

[@myfalconry76]

FYI the angle don’t really matter that’s jut to ensure you connector reaches the plug. That’s what ford told me

[@precisiont5188]

Can someone please help me find the crank position sensor and cam position sensor on my 2014 Ford Mustang v6 3.7? This would be amazing. Tank you.

[@fiber6343]

I’m about to do the timing change cover on my 2000 mustang 3.8 and I don’t want to mess up the timing with this sensor but I’m not sure if It’s necessary to take off or to mess with . Please help

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

If you gotta pull the cover you gotta set TDC on comp stroke. Mark cps for reinstall. Then follow video for reinstall as shown.

[@jeremyrainwater2175]

Amazing!

[@vernalove899]

So are you saying that if I removed the cam shaft positioned before finding TDC my motor is toast and will never run even doing what you showed ne in this video yes or no.

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

It will run. I have incorrectly set it. Just reset the timing with this and it will be good.

[@frankiej.rodriguez2302]

So im rebuilding a 3.9 for my mustang. The engine was pulled from the junkyard. I did not even touch the cams or timing gears. I did however remove that sensor as a whole assembly to remove the chain cover and oil pump. Will i have to do this to my engine?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

Yes.

[@DiezCallejeros]

so i have to put the crankshaft to tdc before taking it out and replacing it? i messed up replaced my synchronizer on my f150 didnt put it on tdc before taking it off, didnt use to the tool either to hold it in place.

[@DiezCallejeros]

now my truck is misfiring and turning off on reverse sometimes, do i need to put the crankshaft on tdc take off the synchronizer center it and put it back correct?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

Yes. This is why I made this video, as years ago I did same and cost a motor. Your engine is currently taking heavy damage to piston rings and you will absoloutley need to pull out cps , set to TDC manually as shown, insert CPS with f150 locking tool same as shown on this 4.2 in a mustang allowing the CPS to clock itself and seat without manually turning it with the tool. Drop your oil and if there's metal shavings, you need to do a compression test as the metal will be piston rings from improper detonation. If this helps and it saves your engine please leave positive feedback good luck!

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

Your EFI is not synchronized to your engines actual mechanical timing.

[@DiezCallejeros]

@@MustangV6TechSupport the day engine light came on after i parked my truck i accelerated and turned off. checked it and replaced the synchronizer with new sensor. i did not put it on tdc like you did before taking the old synchronizer, i put the new synchronizer in without the tool. after it kept turning off i decided to redo it, replaced synchronizer this time i used the tool to keep it in place but didnt put the crankshaft on tdc, do you think thats the reason why my truck looses power when i accelerate and shuts off when i reverse sometimes?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

Completley. Mine had 6 hours idle time and about an hour driving it before the damage was done. Re time the engine by hand as shown and expect it to run great again as long as the compression rings didn't go and you will find the damage in the oil pan. If no metal, God speed with the truck.

[@Fishy_FR]

Does all of this apply to the 98 3.8L?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

The pre 99 3.8s are externally balanced meaning the harmonic balancer and flywheel are used in engine balancing, not just the internal rotating assembly. The pre 99 timing is set very similar. Using the same corresponding hash marks in the balancer and an indicator arrow on the front cover behind the crankshaft position sensor, exept you line up the correct degree to the indicator arrow that is individual to each balancer, wich I am uncertain of.

[@azielmedellin4121]

does it work on a 2000 3.8 mustang?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

We have confirmed the same technique works with 99-00 cps

[@myfalconry76]

Bolt torque 27.4 inch lbs

[@johngouker3887]

Not so good luck ! I felt the sloppiness of the camshaft position mechanical portion so I bought a new one ! Before I took it out , instead of magic marker I penned it with 2dots , one right above the other, ie: match marked ! #1 @ tdc on comp stroke ! I made the holder as required , bitchen ! Then I pulled the sensor. This job came to me needing a pan , timing & water pump gaskets , It leaked everywhere ! Going back together was an experience I’ll never forget ! Pan sealed, timing cover & water pump gaskets installed ,the next step is 1 @ tdc & 6th tooth directly under the sensor I added the handy tool I made I installed can mechanical . @15 degrees & down went the sensor . It would not fall in exactly @ 54 degrees, more like 52 . Pulled it out an tried again and reinstalled it .Tried again & it fell in at 58 ! I tried in vain 3,4,5 times it would line up ! Started car and it ran but pop pop pop , I shut it off & inspected the wires all was ok! Restarted car pop,pop, ????? After the 5th try I thought the old sensor shaft was sloppy but it worked ! Swapped out the seals ( o-rings) . #1 @tdc & 6th tooth , I installed and it fell into the peened match marks 👏👏👏 ! Not it’s a hard start !! Please advise !

[@johngouker3887]

Not /now

[@jensenwilliam5434]

Fucking right 😊

[@gotitans28ce]

clean your language, up. But you seam to be a good mechanic.

[@TRAXRIPPER]

So my question is to the missing tooth on the relucture wheel. I have a 94 3.8 V6 and the timing is set with that CPS set at the 54 degree but the marks on the balancer is at the hash mark 28deg ATDC So does the count on the wheel still start at zero? Because I'm my case it can't be 6 teeth over and starting on 7 because my timing is already starting 28 degrees ATDC Im having injector issues with them dropping out going into misfire and then coming back online at idle. I got this car cheap cause they couldn't figure out how to get it running. It looks to me they had the balancer off the relucture wheel was loose and part unbolted so I snugged it up but I think it's not at proper position. I know for a fact that my 94 is set at the 28 ATDC to the synchronizer at 54 deg and that is correct but if the crank sensor is not counting right cause the tooth count is off then I think that is where my problem is. Do you know where the open tooth should start in relation to my reference in the 28 ATDC point? How many teeth should I see from that point before I begin at 28 after? It can't be the same 6 past zero starting on 7 because look how many teeth you clear just going to 28 ATDC Any ideas Bro? So many people get stuck on the TDC is my problem not listening to me THAT THE 94 AND 95 AT LEAST ARE SET AT 28DEG ATDC! That's not even debatable to me and once they do not know that or understand where to find that info I'm out cause they can't help cause they don't know we are both correct they just are not correct when it comes to my 94 Just like my car HAS OBD2 because even though it's 96 and up the 94 SN95s 3.8 V6s GOT OBD2 before any of the rest and DO NOT HAVE EECT or whatever it is. I have OBD2 in my 94 from the factory! NOW DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY PEOPLE TELL ME THERE IS NO WAY THEY GAVE THE V6 THAT BEFORE THEY GAVE IT TO THE V8? WELL SORRY FOR ALL WHO GET BUTTHURT OVER FACTS BUT TAKE IT BALLZ DEEP CAUSE ITS TRUE! anyway... Any info you might have bro please give me a line to bite on Ty

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

I have been told it is basically same as 99-04 just look diffrent bc you have to go off the hash markings on the 94-98 balancer weight and not the reluctor wheel teeth. There is a TDC arrow on the front cover under the crankshaft position sensor it lines up with that is hard to find

[@TRAXRIPPER]

@@MustangV6TechSupport yeah so I took that book and asked why in the hell is my car set timing at ATDC anyway and the best answer I got was something about the emissions and the EGR! Well I had enough of that. So I pulled some information and went and found another 94 3.8 and the sticker under the hood is in complete contradiction to the manual! But I followed that sticker and with the engine warm I pulled the spout connector and set the balancer with the number 1 plug on compression to 10 degrees BTDC! put it all back together and the car runs 100 times better! It's a 5 speed T5 and once it hits 3 grand now it's almost like it comes alive with boost from 3 to 4500 rpm like it winds up and goes! ATDC SUCKS! FUCK THAT AND THAT MANUAL! My only issue is a misfire that only happens once I shift to 5th. It's like an injector falls out. It's on bank 1 and it's running mad rich! But it won't happen 1 thru 4 ever! So I been riding in 4 for now but that burns more gas. The mass air sensor is new so I don't know if I should get 6 new injectors or if I got a bad cat! I did buy NGK ox sensors 2 of them for upstream but down stream is still old. So bank 1 running mega rich misfire only happens in 5th gear and it's an injector dropping out! Either 1 or 3 If I shut off the car and restart it clears right away but I can't go to 5th or it happens again and is all the time. I guess it clears cause it goes closed loop to open or other way around but I'm like WTF? I'm so close to having it run great all the time but I don't know what to buy next! Injectors, ox sensors again up and downstream another mass air flow? So close yet so far! Thanks

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

@TRAXRIPPER pop the hood. start the car in 100% complete darkness. Go in the bay and look at the spark plugs all the way to the coil pack on all cylinders. In 100% darkness if you can see the spark electrical current jumping from the spark plug back up to the coil pack or motor, you have either a coil pack going out and grounding at the plug , bad wire connection/minor break in wire, cracked plug porcelain or a grounding/ bad plug. Spark/wire/coil tune up needed and would only become apparent missfire in higher gear. If it fails this test it's actually pretty cool to watch and may have found your ghost missfire. It is possible to further isolate the issue so you don't just have to throw all parts at it but this sounds like your issue. Try this quick to eliminate coil pack/ tune up from equation and hmb with result

[@rnninobrown]

Is the Ac compressor and power steering pump removed from the car

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

Entirely diffrent brackets and accessories. With freestar accessories I have to pull PS pump to time the CPS

[@atxjax1]

Im about to change the synchronizer on my F150 because its screeching. It came with a holder tool. Can I just spin my engine until the tool fits the old syncro then remove the syncro from the block. After that put the tool on the new syncro and stab it in?

[@MustangV6TechSupport]

@atxjax1 you would need to follow these steps exactly, but would use the f150 CPS locking tool on a new truck CPS