Can a Compact Tractor Pull a 2 Bottom Plow? It Depends…

[@RockhillfarmYT]

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[@Nicholaskleyn]

That was frustrating to watch. Only from the view point that I wanted to see your tractor do it. I was rooting for it. You gave it a good college try. Just need a bigger tractor.

[@PineyGroveHomestead]

Good video Brock and thanks for the mention. I was surprised your tractor couldn't pull it since our Kubota L3901 is not that much of a bigger tractor. Maybe our 3 speed hydro gearing allows our Low to be a lower gear than yours??? Our soil is a little looser (sandy) but I think it's more of a gearing issue because we could plow fine with our L2800 (28hp). Interested to see you try it with the 3038! Tractor Hard! 🚜💪!

[@wildbill23c]

The low on a 3 range hydro I believe is lower geared than the 2 range. I think a lot of it has to do with soil conditions too. I doubt my little tractor would pull a plow at all, supposedly it can handle a single bottom plow but I really highly doubt it. I'll stick to the roto tiller LOL.

[@angusblack9900]

Isn't that hard on the hydrostatic

[@RockhillfarmYT]

@angusblack9900 a little, I did a full video talking about that The Truth About Hydrostatic Tractors kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXWZcoaAn6t5es0

[@angusblack9900]

@RockhillfarmYT thanks for that info. I guess I'm use to gear driven and clutches slipping. I gave a mx5100 Kubota hst. Always wondering if the hydrostatic can take it. Bought new in 2010 now have a little over 900 hrs pull 2 bt plows,box blade and 6 ft rotory cutter. Very happy with it.

[@ronmcwhirter3641]

Polish up your mulboard and you need. culters. Rusty is friction you cant afford. Culters will score the sod , it should help a bit. Good luck. Shine it up

[@roycebraman4311]

I have a Yanmar YT235 35hp tractor that I used an antique Ferguson double bottom 18" plow to make the family garden plot, I was plowing to full depth in heavy clay soil. I had absolutely no problem doing that, but, my plow has coulter blades that were slicing through the grasses that I was turning over, that may be what you need

[@W4GHW]

I know nothing about this but common sense suggests that if you could take one plow off it would work. Love your videos! Thank you!

[@dustdevl1043]

That ground hasn't been plowed for years, maybe never. A pretty tough test for your little tractor.

[@MrAllegiant1]

I'm going to run into the same issue. Bigger tractor, but hard is hard.

[@kenmarydressen6589]

Brock you need to get the bottoms polished.

[@jameshayes1917]

Good morning! Get that old Johnny Popper out and try it on that plow. Bet it would work!

[@MrCivilwar1861]

An old timer who is passed now once told me the softer the dirt the harder to plow. He said hard soil turns over better. He used to plow with horses as well as the old tractors with metal wheels. Give those guys a lot of credit. My guess is to wait for a dry spell in the future to try and plow. Love your videos.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for the feedback

[@TKCL]

Try a single, might surprise you.

[@wildbill23c]

That is what my sub-compact is rated for, is a single but even at that I doubt it would pull it in all conditions....soil type makes a huge difference in whether you can pull a plow through it with a small tractor with a hydrostatic transaxle. That is the limiting factor on these, the hydrostatic transaxles weren't meant for ground engaging attachments like plows mostly...land planes and the box blades are ok, but with the rippers down you still struggle.

[@tlm3574]

Single is a good idea but I pulled a plow with 33 and 35 HP New Holland. I had 4 weights front and 2 on each rear wheel and R-4 tires. Polish bottoms and paint it with diesel. Never used one that had that much welding on it. New lays are good too. Fun to watch. Thanks

[@mrrodneyalong]

I think it the hydro crap on it- thats what is on my 3032 and what it says is hydro is only 85% or less efficiently to getting that power down

[@benjaminmeder4477]

My 2022 Massey Ferguson 1835e shuttle pulls a 2 bottom 16 inch plow in Steuben county NY through sod like it's nothing. Even in conditions that are still to wet to plow I have tested it out and it pulls it pretty well. I plow with the loader on and with rimguard in the rear tires, but no wheel weights. I have R1 tires. I plow at about 5 mph going 8 inches deep or so and sometimes digging down a few more inches. I am considering buying a 3 bottom 12 or 14 inch plow just to test out for fun. I think it would pull either fairly easily in optimal conditions.

[@SkylineAcresVA]

I think a 3-range transmission would have really helped. You're definitely not running out of traction.

[@SetitesTechAdventures]

That's on my list of things to get when I find a good deal. Right now I have a potato plow but it's moldboard is not that tall so it doesn't turn over as much as I'd like. But I wanted it for plowing and also trenching so it was a good call.

[@bigsway4414]

My 3038E struggles with a one bottom plow. I’ve watched a lot of plow videos and people make it look easy but they’re usually in Sandy soil or they’re plowing last year‘s garden spot which makes it way easier.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I was wondering how a 3038 would do

[@genewilliams7497]

Without draft control on your tractor it will never really pull it well….. all plows want to go to China when you engage then with the ground. Kinda like the post hole drill does and you can’t stop it from pulling its self into the ground. Draft control holds the plow at the same depth. Also as other comments have stated…. The ground needs to be the right moisture content to work at optimum performance. You can also roll the plows over a bit by lowering the right side lower arm of your 3 pt hitch. I have NEVER buried the plow when plowing 8”-10” is plenty deep and will allow the mold board to throw the dirt over into the previous trench. I think you’ve got plenty of tractor there it just needs to be tweaked a bit and done when the moisture is right for plowing. 👍👍🔥🔥

[@Cowboy_Steve]

Howdy Brock! I know about as much about plowing as I do the molecular structure of a perovskite solar cell... so I have nothing constructive to add lol. But I am learning, so will be interesting to see what kind of feedback you get and what your solution will be. Thanks for sharing 🤠

[@paulcasefarms9933]

This could be the new theme for a childrens bed time story. The little green tractor (with every possible accessory) that almost could. Great ring to it dont you think. I am only here for comic relief. I will loan you a little tractor that can if ya want? The 2n 9n and 8n fords were only 26 to 30 hp and did ok with a 2 bottom plow, but like you said they put 100% to the ground. I bet John would have done it if it had not been sod. BTW 8'' deep is real hard when it has been in sod for years. Try 6'' the first time.

[@loydmeeks2439]

polish your plow with flap disk on side grinder .

[@frankdrahos8569]

I suspect that those are 16” shares. Maximum plowing depth is 1/2 share width. Some of those other plows in other videos might be 14” or 12” shares. Huge difference. Also, sharpening the points of the shares is much less important than cleaning the rust off the shares, moldboards, and landslides. After my Dad had plowed a few hundred yards, the plows were polished to a mirror finish. Good luck. For comparison, I plow with and old ford single bottom 16” and it’s all my 25 hp 2520 wants in sod ground.

[@jerrylansbury9558]

No matter what he does......if the tractor tires are not turning.....and the engine is running...nothing will change !

[@matthewfenton8775]

I’m match ploughing with a 35hp Fordson dexta with my two furrow, ransoms match plough. With extra weight blocks and the rear tyres now filled with water to help

[@Lackieestatesfarm]

Where are you match ploughing? I’m here in eastern Canada doing it with a 135 massey and a hydrein ME Kverneland

[@ibwaldo]

Sorry, I don’t have any working knowledge on using a plow, but I did want to encourage more content and discussion on using a 2038R for plowing as this is something I’m highly interested in. Thanks for showing the struggle you are experiencing, I’m looking forward to more information on this subject, and follow up content 🤠

[@toddcaskey9984]

If you had a sod cutter it would help greatly. It's a round disk that cuts the sod and makes it easier for the plow . They bolt on in frount of the plow

[@toddcaskey9984]

Come up and I'll send ya home with one 🤪

[@RockhillfarmYT]

You are way up north eh

[@MichaelJones1527]

Looking back at the older bigger in size tractors that I was raised with, the downsizing to compact has a lot to do with it. Take for instant an old H Farmall tractor, not much horsepower but a lot of gear. It had 38-inch tires and a much stouter gearbox. I would be afraid if you continued to plow the way you were doing you would have some catastrophic failure with your tranny or rear end. The newer compact tractors were not designed for that larger old-style plow. To paraphrase OJ (If it doesn't fit, you must quit)

[@tylerknoll8135]

I think the plow would pull a lot better it it had some discks in front of both bottoms to slice the ground before the bottoms roll it over

[@mmielcarek3046]

Take a torch to the rear plow beam and use the best parts of the plow shares and moldboard to make it a one bottom. Going to cost a fortune to find points and moldboards for a Ferguson plow. Northern Ohio we can find a nice Ford Dearborn or even a Ford 101 plow for two hundred. Most of those plows were 14 inch.

[@TheDumpTrailerGuyLLC]

Plowing is done on the fly, not from a dead stop. I'm almost wondering if you should be in high so you can get some ground speed. You should be moving fast, drop the 3 point and keep the momentum up. Standing on the diff lock gives you too much traction, let off and let the tires spin and try to pull you forward, work the brakes from side to side until it grips. Grab a scoop full of dirt with the bucket for some extra weight up front if needed. My 1943 Ford 2N is watching shaking its head in disappointment right now lol

[@allenwaddle5130]

I'd like to agree with you on everything but the high gear part. A hydro is like an automatic or CVT, put it in too high a gear it won't move. John Deere's especially, they aren't geared for hi draft load, you can tell because the hydro petal tries pushing back into your foot.

[@wildbill23c]

It would just stall in high range.

[@allenwaddle5130]

She'll be fine and if you need any parts for those old plows go to your local Binkley and Hurst they have everything you'll need.

[@andrewanderson1436]

Dang Brock at first when they was loading that plow I was like no way he went to Tishomingo ok for that lol. That place looks similar to the one in Tishomingo that's sells old equipment. Looks like it did great. I was more impressed that you didn't kick up any rocks.

[@jimmerrithew453]

Hi Brock. If you used a tiller first, that would break up the grass roots. Then, the plow might cut better.

[@tammyalps1363]

Coulter's make a difference, sod pulls hard. Shine up bottoms, thought the lays weren't that bad. Shallow up a little in the front. The biggest problem that I can see is gears would be better than hydraulic.

[@johnduncomb3519]

From my experience that plough is probably beyond repair. They are quite difficult to set up in good condition, don't plough too deep mouldboards are designed to turn the sod right over and bury the grass and kill it. 4 to 5 inches is enough, seed beds don't need to be deeper.

[@jamescole3152]

plough is probably beyond repair. Why?

[@PRShoup]

Hey Brock, Thanks for showing what your JD can or can't do with a 2 bottom, as I appreciate your effort. What your video says to me is the following: 1. Hydrostat is not the first choice for running an implement that takes/needs full power. 2. I believe a 2 bottom is too much for a subcompact. (You may say your tractor is a compact and not a subcompact, but your tractor lacks the power of a full compact) 3. You already have a tiller that could eat that sod up in 3-4 passes, and do a great job. I have a subcompact kioti with a 5 ft tiller and I can eat up sod all day long. 4. Some guys just love plows over everything else (and that's ok). I am not one of those guys. 5. Lastly, run what you brung....other-words, use your tiller. Thanks for the demonstration!

[@wildbill23c]

Yep, for that type of work you really want a manual transmission....much better power to ground ratio than a hydrostatic transaxle. With my sub-compact tractor they say a single bottom plow is the max, and I'd even say that's too much LOL. You really need to plow when breaking up a new garden or plot area to get the soil broken up for proper root growth and drainage...after that you can certainly roto-till, but you'll need to plow occasionally to keep the soil broken up, otherwise it'll compact right below where your tines reach.

[@LS-vs7bi]

I would take the back bottom off and turn it into a single bottom. I pull a three bottom that I turned into a double because I didn’t think my 52hp kubota wouldn’t pull it. Pulls two great, someday I’ll ad the third bottom to see if it can do it. I think you’re video is going to help out alot of people.👍🏼

[@minutemanmac]

Once that moldboard shines up it should pull easier too. A single will surprise you though, I've seen 1025Rs pull a single easily enough.

[@tombenfer1163]

1. Find out the make, and try New plow sheers & moleboards work. My Dad used to pull a 2 14" bottom trail plow with an old John Deere B. Depending on the ground, sometimes 3rd or 4th gear

[@BradMyers]

A few things, weight on the tractor is important. When it comes to ground engaging implements weight is the factor that helps. We have pulled a two bottom plow with our MF 35 and had no issues. I have also pulled it with L3560. Having coulters on there could help, since they pre-cut through the grass and then the plow just turns over the dirt. Most plows will pull harder till you get them shined up. I couldn't tell how big your bottoms ae, but we use 14" on the smaller tractors. I think our typical cut depth is 6 to 7 inches.

[@jerrylansbury9558]

No matter what he does...the wheels are not turning on the tractor....and the engine is running. Something is by-passing !

[@greenwoodsbushhogging6704]

Polish it up and put a good point on the cutting edge. Adjust the top link to make it flat, or even tilted up just a tick to compensate for the 3pt slop. You could also till the grass up, then plow to some of the load off cutting through the roots. They make newer 2 bottoms for smaller tractors, but I've only used a single bottom, and honestly... I just prefer tilling. I can get the 6-7" depth from double tilling, and it's far less stress on the tractor.

[@duhreally]

Good morning Brock, neither my wife nor I are farmers, but watching this morning's video our question is wouldn't most farmers til a virgin field before they tried to plow it? Why take the chance of burning up your tractor, plus u can role faster...

[@wildbill23c]

No, farming really starts out with a plow....tilling is ok after that but you really want to get down deep and break up all the compacted soil for root growth and drainage purposes....even after plowing, if you roto till you'll still want to run a plow through it occasionally to keep the soil from getting too compact again causing root issues and drainage problems.

[@Frontpagefab]

I may have missed it, but were you pulling in high range? If so, try it in low range. I am pulling 1-14 with a JD 2305. One difference is my has a colter and yours doesn't.

[@corndoc]

The plow needs to be scowered… clean and shiny. It cannot be rusty. A sharp plow share is important too! The plow bottoms must be shiny clean. Then it will pull easier.

[@nickc7320]

I used an old plow from a non functional farm that was inherent by a friend's family. I put that plow on an old Kubota, and it drug the rusty blade through the ground and brought it up clean. No doubt there would be less friction, but I honestly think that tractor was just out classed.

[@lordchaa1598]

I will tell you, my 25 hp Lx2610 really struggles with the double bottom plows, heck it struggles with the single bottom plow, but she will pull it just fine. I tried a 2 bottom and it could barely crawl once they got deep. Your 38 hp should be strong enough. Edit: you got further then my tractor got, but it was certainly struggling. These small tractors just aren’t made for deep ground engaging implements. My grandfather would have said that you need to get at least 2-3mph while plowing, but with a hydrostatic transmission you’re limited with getting power to the ground in these instances. I’d go with the single bottom and you’ll breeze through it.

[@claycotey3171]

My Case IH 255 (about 25 engine hp) pulls two bottoms OK. But it is gear drive. And the plow has coulters. Also, like yours, because of the narrow track of the compact tractors it only plows about 1 and a half furrows width even with adjustments.

[@shooter910]

Great effort!!.....you could try just a shallow till to loosen the sod then hit it with the plow?? ya i get it not if you were really farming..but like you said the is just a small plot..that might get you to the depth you would like???...great video love the real stuff!!!

[@duanebauer8133]

My kubota tractor L3130 has gear drive. I plow in 2 low gear no problem with 2 bottom plow

[@Markam248]

I think a single bottom plow would work. but in my opinion hydrostatic drives are not made for that kind of work. I would be interested to see if your model of tractor in a gear drive would pull it better. just my two cents.

[@wildbill23c]

Hydrostatic is nice for doing loader work, but ground engaging attachments not so much LOL. That's where the old manual transmission is a great asset, put the power where its supposed to be going....to the wheels, instead of throwing oil all over in a transaxle LOL.

[@jamesharrod8733]

i use a 1 bottom plow yes those hydrostats does not pull deep ground 6-8" usually deep enough

[@paulmaggard1614]

Before you even started I was thinking to myself "clean the rust off dummy " seriously you would be amazed how much difference it makes. 😊 It might help even to spread some paste wax on it .

[@EthanPDobbins]

Rust will be gone in 1-3 passes and so would any wax

[@patrickmckenzie2391]

Back in the old days tractors many times were judged by the plow that they can pull. So a tractor was either a two bottom tractor or three bottom tractor or single bottom tractor. And then, you would go by the number of inches that each plow cut so you either have two 14s or two 16s. We used to pull a two bottom plow, two 14s, to plant potatoes with, with an H Farmall, which is only about a 23 horse tractor. So you should’ve been able to pull that plow with a 38 horse tractor. A couple of things though, that plow didn’t appear to have disc cutters in front of the moldboards to vertically cut the sod in front of each plow. And you really want to find your ideal plow depth and set your three point hitch so it goes yo the same depth each time without moving it up and down. You only need to plow about 5-8 inches deep depending on the soil. Also, get a wire brush wheel or sanding wheel, whatever you want to use and knock all that rust off and make them shiny. You’d be surprised how much extra drag that rust created. Or if you plan on plowing a lot, after you plow about 20 acres if there’s any sand in the soil at all, it’ll be pretty shiny on its own. If you plow very much ground with a plow like that, though, it’ll actually create a mirror finish on that plow, so then, when you’re done plowing, you have to remember to put grease on those mole boards to keep them from rusting again.

[@spendingtimeinpapasbarn.1995]

Several things I noticed. The mould boards are not shiny causing a lot of friction, your not using sod cutters tearing the sod again causing a lot of friction. You don’t need to bury the plow you just need to turn the sod over.

[@jerrylansbury9558]

I have an old 1943 Oliver 60 row crop tractor thats rated at "18 horse power ". It pulls a 2 bottom -14 inch plow in third gear (at about 3 mile per hour ).......no problem.

[@bobpurs]

Brock don’t think it was your technique at all, the tractor won’t do it. For me it is a perfect example why I don’t own a hydrostatic tractor. Keep up the great content 👍✊

[@wildbill23c]

Too bad he couldn't get the same tractor in a manual transmission and try the same...I'm extremely curious what the outcome would be...I bet the manual would pull just fine given many older tractors were in the low 30HP range, or even in the 20HP range and could pull 2-3 bottom plows. I think its a gearing issue. The hydro combined with higher gearing just don't have the power to overcome those plow shares being buried in the ground.

[@bobpurs]

@@wildbill23c I have a 790 which is 30hp and manual and have pulled a 2 bottom with not much problem.

[@dennisdelk4298]

Crank up the right side lower arm, lengthen the third arm and keep plowing. When the dirt gets the rust knocked off you'll be amazed at the difference.

[@tinkeringtrucker5196]

Get a sharp point on the plow share, wire wheel and flap disk the molboards, get them as slick as you can. That rusty metal is a ton of resistance

[@lifewiththegatewideopen]

Surprised that the tires didn't lose traction. Were you in low range?

[@bradmeacham6982]

It's unfortunate that the 2038R only has a two range hydro. I'd guess that low range in a three range hydro would've had a much better chance of pulling the plow.

[@wildbill23c]

It would do a little better yes, but still not great....a manual transmission is just the better option for a pulling tractor.

[@bradmeacham6982]

@@wildbill23c My JD 4720 had the 3-range E-hydro. In low range, it would run out of traction and spin all 4 tires well before the hydro would bypass. And yes, I realize it was a significantly bigger tractor with 20+ more HP.

[@wildbill23c]

@@bradmeacham6982 The 4720 isn't a compact tractor though is it?

[@bradmeacham6982]

@@wildbill23c It is the JD CUT model prior to the current 4 series. Somewhere between a 4052 and 4066 4066. Don 't remember for sure, but I want to say 58-ish HP engine rating.

[@davidmays2161]

Don't you have a Johnny Popper you can pull that plow with??

[@jakedbwilson]

I was taught 15HP per plow- I have a TC30 and it struggles with my double bottom too.

[@tylerknoll8135]

I bet that your tractor hated you after that 😄

[@matthewfenton8775]

Plough needs disks and skimmers for it to plough properly.

[@billwelch3421]

What if you were to till the ground first and then come back with the plow without such a deep cut? Just a thought not a critique.

[@rcguy18]

Interesting that the 38hp tractors could not pull the two bottom plow I use 8hp garden tractor to pull a single 14” plow 6” deep.

[@wildbill23c]

The hydrostatic transaxle is really the biggest hurdle with these types of digging chores.

[@blackhat1652]

Just take a cut with the second furrow and turn what you have ploughed with the first one. It might be messy but will get it done. Once its broken up it will be easier next time. Your pitch may be a little to aggressive also, makes the plough bog in and not run along on the landslides. Happy ploughing.

[@Jtwizzle]

Hydrostatic tractors need an extra low gear to compensate for the lack of drive power compared to traditional gear tractors. Gotta see those tires spinning that's when you truly know it's at the limit.

[@wildbill23c]

The larger tractors with the 3 range hydrostatic transaxle would probably be best....with Kubota that starts in the B-Series, not sure what John Deere does maybe the 3 or 4 series?

[@Jtwizzle]

@wildbill23c the 3R series has 3 range. TTWT did a test with a 3 bottom plow on a 4075r hydrostatic and it did pretty well. It wasn't virgin ground with sod though. So it seems like 25hp to the ground per bottom is the sweet spot.

[@wildbill23c]

@@Jtwizzle Thanks, wasn't sure which series John Deere starts putting the 3 range hydrostatics in.

[@edwardchapman1914]

No draft control, extend top link more.. make sure the 3pt is set to float

[@nathangahman8717]

I have no experience with a plow so I have no idea if this would work… Could you cut it shallower with your first pass, and then sink it down father on a second pass? It might cut a bit easier with the sod busted up… I would definitely hit it with a grinder first also.

[@donalexander4083]

bet your johnny popper would pull it 😀 the hydro static trans isn't great at plowing in general terms

[@anthonymartin9672]

Allot of plows have a round blade that mounts ahead of the main blade. It rolls into the dirt and kind of pre-cuts the sod. I've seen plows on riding mowers plowing just fine with that type of setup.

[@rafaelramos441]

Coulter, can be quite effective

[@nelseshaver2679]

Your tractor is really strong for its size. I didn't see it breaking traction so I think it is heavy enough. I think you need more HP at the ground. It may actually be that the same weight tractor with the same HP and hydrostatic drive would pull the two bottom if it had taller tires on the rear to transfer more power. I bet you can work that single bottom though. Good video!

[@Jtwizzle]

He wasn't spinning, so he had adequate weight. Wouldn't taller tires make the gearing taller, thus making less torque at the wheels?

[@nelseshaver2679]

@@Jtwizzle I am not an engineer, but I think that taller tires would multiply torque. Come to think of it you are correct. More radius at the rear tires would require more torque to move. That would reduce power at the ground. The gearing has to change at the transmission/drive train to increase torque. Thanks for correcting me Jtwizzle.

[@Jtwizzle]

@nelseshaver2679 I just know when I put 33 inch tires on my truck from 30.5 inch I felt a big power loss. Have to regear the differentials to get it back how it was. John deere needs 3 gear selections on these smaller tractors to make up for power losses of the hydro trans.

[@terryknesek9519]

I think you should remove the 2nd plow and then plow as deep amd as fast as you want to make it work properlu

[@grumpa328]

The bottom of the plow should be parallel to the ground and three point has to be adjusted after the first pass so plow is level side to side when tire is in furrow. Frustrating as hell. Really makes you appreciate the skill and knowledge of a farmer!

[@rickvaughan8993]

Curious as to why you weren`t using your hydraulic top link? Is it possible to remove one of the plow edges to make it a one bottom plow?

[@RockhillfarmYT]

One of the hoses has a leak on the hydraulic top link. I keep forgetting to go over and get a new hose

[@duckman5849]

I'm amazed that the tires are not breaking loose even having the ballast weight. I've never hooked anything to my tractor that has bogged mine down. Mine is not hydrostatic however. That might be the problem

[@wildbill23c]

The hydrostatic has quite a bit of parasitic losses to the wheels, just an inherent trait of a hydrostatic transaxle. For pulling you definitely want the manual transmission....trouble is they don't offer these tractors that way....the only nice thing with a hydrostatic transaxle is it makes loader work much quicker as you aren't shifting back and forth.

[@mrgregpappas]

Shine it up and do a pt.2 video. I’d love to see the results.

[@blakemiller6195]

I have a 37 horse it's an rk so rebranded tym. physically bigger than yours. Just got a 2 bottom I believe and would have to check it is 16 inch don't quote me, but I used it in hard packed clay has been ran over with trucks and fourwheelers and such for about 12 to 15 years since it was last plowed and I will say there were areas where it struggled a bit. I plowed it once and wasn't happy waited for it to get weathered somewhat and cultivated it down then hit it a second time and it was a breeze.

[@jimconnor6928]

Have you seen two bottom plows with a dics in front of the cutting point? Wonder if that would help? Another nice video.

[@thastinger345]

Those look like Dearborn plows. You are missing the coulters in front of the plow, having those would make it a lot easier pull in virgin ground. The gearing on the modern stuff and the hydro drives just aren't made for this type of work. I have a 1949 Farmall C that will pull 2/14 plows all day long, that tractor was rated at 20HP from the factory, but it was built for deep ground work too.

[@PRShoup]

Brock, This is my 2nd comment on this video. I want to clarify that I really enjoy your videos and want you to definitely succeed and grow your channel. My earlier comment may have been seen as bashing your JD tractor. I truly wasn't putting your tractor down. I was just commenting on what I took away from your demonstration. IE: Your tractor (even though it is 38 hp) did not seem to have enough power to do the job. I won't repeat my early comment about hydro vs gear drive, ect, ect, but I just wanted to say the frame/tire size (even though tires were weighted) is not enough for your small framed JD to pull the 2 bottom plow. In contrast, our friend Tony (of Tony's tractor adventures) tested a slightly larger frame, larger (but unweighted) tires, 25 hp, HST, TYM/Branson tractor with a 2 bottom plow. The results were similar to yours (although he seemed to have a slightly easier time of it, and was able to plow more ground.) With that said, the takeaway is that neither tractor is suitable for a 2 bottom plow. Admittedly, I am not a JD fan-boy, but I do believe and appreciate that every tractor MFG makes quality tractors, and one just needs to pick the appropriate model (size) tractor to fit the needs of your plan of use. Thanks for being authentic in your videos, and keep up the good work!!

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I can’t speak to all John Deere tractors but I think the hydrostatic drives in my tractor are not strong enough. I’m disappointed in the pushing/pulling power I saw Tony’s thumbnail and I’m planning to watch the video but I haven’t yet

[@tonygoodwin3875]

Looks like it’s time to sell it & get a bobcat CT2035??..😂😂 mine won’t actually pull my 2 bottom?? but It will BURY IT & keep pulling 👍👍.. thanks for the video

[@TomKD0QKK]

I've got a bunch of ground to break up this fall. I was going to use the tiller but now you've got me wondering how well my 3043D would do with a plow.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I’m pretty confident yours would pull it, but there’s only one way to find out

[@Myke_Lemons]

While the hydro transmission definitely played a role versus a gear drive, I imagine that engine displacement played a role in the struggle of your tractor to pull this plow. Despite your tractor having similar horsepower to the other tractor you mentioned that was able to pull a two bottom plow, generally the smaller frame tractors have much less displacement. Lower engine displacement equals less torque and torque is what you need to tear through that sod. For example if you get a 25 HP subcompact and compare it to the same manufacturer's 25 HP compact, you generally have a big difference in engine displacement. That's why manufacturers make subcompact and compact tractors with the same HP. While the HP is equal there is definitely a performance increase with the larger tractor. Based on what I see in the video and that you said you have a 38 HP, I'm assuming you have a JD 2038. John Deere lists this tractor as having 36.7 HP with 95.8 in³ displacement. Kubota lists the L3901 as having 37.5 HP with 111.4 in³ displacement. For comparisons sake, the Kioti CK2620 is listed as a 24.5 HP but is 100.5 cu in. It has less HP than yourJD but more torque. Theoretically, this 25 HP can pull more than your Deere. It just wont be as fast without a load. With a 12% increase in displacement you should be getting close to 12% increase in torque as they are very closely related. While I'm not an expert, I would guess 12% increase in torque is significant. I know I would love to increase the torque in my truck by 12%.

[@BrianNickelson]

It might work better once the rust is polished off. That makes quite a difference.

[@JCWren]

Rust Patrol! It's a lubricant, right? :)

[@RockhillfarmYT]

@JCWren yes sir

[@Lackieestatesfarm]

You’ve got a slot working against you here. I think you were doing everything right on the tractor. But some serious adjustments need to me made on the plow. Those shares are meant to have coulter discs run ahead of them to split the sod. Serious disadvantage without them. As per other comments, polished boards will help. When your wheel is in the furrow that plow needs to be parallel to the ground front-rear and side-side. Don’t be scared to get off and look once in a while. Also I don’t think that plow is pulling square behind your tractor. That will ad some serious strain. Measure from your front furrow landslide to the very tip of your second furrow share to determine how wide you are plowing. Now the important part, that same measurement must be achieved from your front furrow point to the inside sidewall of your right rear tire. You adjust this by rotating the shaft on the plow where your lower link hook. That will “steer” the plow left or right. That will make a massive difference. Feel free to ask any questions that may arise

[@jasondean9995]

I have a 2038R it pulls a single bottom just fine. My tires are loaded and with wheel weights.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks for sharing. My tires are loaded and the three sets of weights

[@projectswithjw]

I've seen hydrostat tractors get a little more power after changing all the fluids. Maybe try full synthetic engine oil, synthetic transmission oil, new filters, and cetane booster in the fuel.

[@wildbill23c]

It might gain a little, but not a drastic change like you are thinking. The hydrostatic transmission with only 2 ranges doesn't have low enough gearing to overcome the pulling forces needed for that plow. Too bad they don't have a manual transmission option on these smaller tractors, it would make quite a bit of difference when it comes to pulling.

[@johngersna3263]

Good morning Brock. This was an interesting video and I know that my 2305 could never pull a plow but I have a question. You didn't mention it in the video but did you have your tractor in low range? It seemed to be howling and awful lot when it was pulling. Mine will have a tendency to do that in high range. I was just curious. God bless you and God bless America!!❤️❤️❤️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@mudder517]

my 2002 jd 4310 pulls my 2 bottom plow great. 32ish hp and its hydro 4wd. something doesn't seem right here....

[@davidhunt711]

You had a few things going against you. Breaking new ground that hasn’t been plowed for years if ever. Yes dull points don’t help but the rusty moldboards is a bigger problem. Not having colters to help slice the sod could be part and 8” is plenty deep, nothing wrong with going 6”-7” either. Also the plow appears to be off center to the right, aligning a plow to pull straight and centered has least resistance and most efficient. Ultimately that size plow is at your tractors limit, doesn’t mean you can’t use it from time to time in right conditions. I’ve got a 2-14 I use on my 3046R and at times I hit my limit.

[@davidhunt711]

Another option would be to use your tiller or something to break up the sod first.

[@chuckw-sh6fg]

4/6 inches deep take your foot off the Diff lock speed is what you need

[@keithdescoteaux5640]

Once you learn how to set your plow up correctly that tractor will pull it. We plow with our 2038 all the time installing gardens for people. You shouldn't have to keep adjusting the hitch when your level at the depth you want. This will keep it from wanting to dive deeper. Also shining up the skins with a wire wheel will make a big difference. Colters will also make it easier. You want to plow at 3 to 5 miles hr. Also check and see if the plow its self is not bent. Just run 2 strait edges on the back side of the mold boards and measure the distance at the plow and again 4 or 5 feet out from there. Measurements should be the same.

[@anthonyg6924]

It was still a good deal. Remove one moldboard and get back to work. You'll need to decide what one based on your situation and where you want your tire to track on the second pass.

[@JoseCervino1]

We have two plows for our MF 275 (45 years old, about 70 HP) For this king of job we use the one with only one bottom. The one with 2 bottoms gets used on fields that get cultivated every year. In this case removing one of the 2 would also be the first thing I would try.

[@garypayne1191]

Put sod cutters on there & sharpen those points

[@jimmyhorton1504]

It sounds like you're running in high range. I Didn't hear you say which range you were using.

[@ittybittytractorworks]

Awesome video. Was definitely surprised by the result. I don’t know anything about plowing but is it possible to make multiple passes, let’s say cutting 4” on the first pass and then lowering it to 6” for the next pass and 8” on the next pass?

[@wildbill23c]

You can make as many passes as you want, doesn't hurt anything, just takes more time of course. If you did that, it would pull the plow fine, but most people don't want to have to make 4-5 passes with a plow they want to do it in 1 pass and move onto something else.

[@Big_zay67]

For a 2 bottom with 14's is use a 1020 dose just fine

[@johnking1428]

Would like to see the one bottom plow work, I have a 3033R, was looking to plow my 6 acres ..(was once a peanut crop about 3 years ago)

[@RockhillfarmYT]

There will be follow-ups to this. Anytime something fails I’m going to readjust and do a second video. Might be with a similar John Deere model like you have or a single plow or both

[@jerrycalvert7680]

If you had rolling culters on each bottom that would help. The rolling culters cut the ground in front of each plow point. As for price i think you got took.

[@jsmith4267]

Hit it shallow then go back over it at full depth. Duration of that much load will cause fade in that hydro unit and it will have less and less pull.

[@rickmontrallo61]

Also if u shine up the plow ( sand off rust)

[@pauldumitras3774]

Take one of the plows off and just use that plow you with but with 1 blade on it

[@TKB231]

Plow shallow then work down the ground. Then re-plow the worked ground.