Can Push-In Wire Connectors Handle Heavy Loads? | Surprising Results!

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I am a big fan of WAGO 221 lever nuts but can the WAGO 2773 Push-In connector handle heavy loads seen around the outlets in our home? There has been a lot of pushback over the years but let's put these compact and convenient connectors to the test. You might be surprised by the results!
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[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

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[@philsmock4943]

I finally broke down and bought a small pack of 221 level nuts. I used them for the first time yesterday. Ok, you won me over. I'm sold on the 221 level nuts. Much easier than wire nuts if you have different gauge wire. They work. Thanks for sharing.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet, wait until you use them on a light fixture or fan. Like having another set of hands 👍

[@pbm___000]

@@philsmock4943 why a different gauge wire connected together?

[@kpopfan2710]

@@pbm___000 Light fixtures is a common one

[@cmuboy]

also much easier if you are mixing stranded with solid wires.

[@elaroche24]

@@pbm___000light fixtures sometimes/typically have smaller AWG size than typical house wiring, just one example

[@russellseaton2014]

I'm still using my Wago push in connectors I bought 30 years ago. I've bought several big 100 count boxes of those in several sizes over the years. Love them. Still use wire nuts sometimes when I have to.

[@ytmadpoo]

I have a stash of push-ins. They really do work fine as long as you're okay with their one-time use, and you can only use it with solid conductors. If you want the flexibility of moving them around and want to re-use, or you have stranded connectors, the lever nuts are definitely awesome. I use mainly lever nuts now, but every now and then, the push-in connectors are my choice, so it just depends. I've basically given up on wire nuts at this point. They have their place, but I hate the whole process of twisting and screwing it on, and they take up so much space on the box relatively speaking. And when you need to rework any wiring, your wires are all twisted and gnarled so you may want to straighten them before twisting back into a new bunch, and you'll probably break some ends off, etc. Just too much hassle. My exception there is for heavy gauge wires like 30-40A for wired in heaters, heat pumps, spas, etc. but if they ever came out with some good lever nuts that could readily handle 6-10 gauge for 30-50A, I'd be happy with those too. :)

[@hilbert551]

The very best channel in general home repair, electrical, plumbing, carpentry etc. Highest quality. Thanks.

[@whattheschmidt]

I made sure to go ahead and use Wago 221s for my heated floor. 15 amp 120V load (3 almost 16' sheets of QuietWarmth under my flooring), heats most of my family room floor. Zero issues or concerns about this constant draw. They are rated up to 30 amps! It's crazy to me it's still a discussion online.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

That's what ultimately won me over. I saw a few creators here with quasi scientific testing where they through far more power through the connectors than my breakers could supply without them failing. The rating on the ones I bought was crazy, they were the 5 wire variety and it was 450v/32a which is just absolutely nuts for a 110v circuit that's protected by a 15a breaker. If the wago becomes a problem, the building is probably already burning due to the rest of the components failing. Arguably the wiring protects the wago from damage.

[@Shadow_B4nned]

Hopefully you derated the connectors for the heated floor.

[@MikeSmith-nf1ru]

Been using the Ideal InSure connectors for years... Never had a problem or call back with using the connectors... Never had any voltage drop issues when used on branch circuits where room lighting (lamps) dimmed with window A/C units on same run... Witnessed firsthand demonstrations with these push in connectors where the wire burnt long before the connectors did... Used these connectors in my own properties and have checked connections in the JB's just to see if anything looked suspicious... Don't be afraid to look outside of your wheelhouse with different technologies...

[@TheChipmunk2008]

We use almost nothing but 2773s here in the UK (us specifically, other electricians use many different types of connector. They save SO much room

[@richardseelye9938]

Thank you for laying it out so accurately. Your work is very very helpful

[@Bob.W.]

I still like the mechanical connection of properly twisted wires in a wire nut. The lever nut Wagos are great for wiring light fixtures with stranded to solid.

[@gerald8289]

I agree, and many electricians do also. However for the average DIYer doing small projects around the house, or wiring their buddies basement, these are good to use. Id tell a DIYer to use wagos over poorly terminated wire nuts any day. You simply cant mess up doing a wago.

[@retrozmachine1189]

@@gerald8289 Where there's a will there's a way. I've seen photos that show people have put more than one wire in to the individual terminal on this style of connector.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

I think wire nuts are still the best for anything that you don't intend to ever redo. However, I do think that it's wise practice to use wagos on most pigtails, especially for things that are likely to wear out at some point like receptacles. It just makes the issues related to eventual wires being too short go away permanently as you can then just quickly swap out the pigtail and have a bunch of receptacles pre-wired with pigtails that can be connected in without a lot of trouble at the box.

[@wilbready]

I would use the 6 or 8 wire push ins for ground and neutral wires, like you mentioned, because there are times when the 5 wire 221 doesn’t offer enough spaces for the number of wires I have to join. Thanks for another great video on the Wago lever nuts! They have made my electrical work so much easier and professional.

[@ralphmartini2863]

Thank u for mentioning that WAGO has a lever nut for #10 wire. One staff at HD said he didn’t think so.

[@dongchim]

Great testing. The Wago 221 has been life changing. It would be interesting to see how "improperly" used wire nuts compare

[@mr702s]

I really enjoy the 10 awg connectors. I loath the pushins except for led light fixtures.

[@readyplayer2]

Thank you for pointing out the axis issue, and showing the chart with the upper design limit. It's also worth pointing out that your axis is still artificially "short" by starting at 80 degrees. I realize you have to pick some lower threshold, and 80 may make sense as a not entirely atypical ambient temperature. I personally would have no issue with running any of the connectors given the results, and like you, I'd lean towards the reusable options. A big drawback of the push in wire connectors in addition to the waste and lack of reusability is that the design seems to preclude stranded wire.

[@daphlavor]

I’ve used the Ideal push in connectors, and have not had any issues, and will continue to use them up.. Now that Wagos are more widely available I bought a combo kit, and will use them

[@andrewb941]

Ideal has a lever style connector now also .. haven’t messed with them yet myself

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

@@andrewb941 Yep, I saw some informal test videos here and they seem to perform roughly the same.

[@brianbuddy2ACP]

IIRC, the 2273 also has a 4 wire variant. So, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 wire versions. Model numbers are 202, 203, 204, 205, 206, and 208. Also, it actually is reusable. Twist the wires while pulling backwards, and after a few times, it will come out. One thing though. This does mar the wire, and you're supposed to cut the marred wire off and restrip a fresh end if you do this.

[@homecraftsolutions3506]

I have wondered about these types of connectors vs. wire nuts current carrying capabilities and heat because their point of contact is a lot less than using wire nuts. I am much more comfortable using these newer push connectors now that I see your test results. Thanks for being thorough.

[@TedHopp]

I picked up a package of Ideal push-in connectors (model 30-1333S). They work well for solid wire, but are unusable for stranded. I expect that the Wago push-ins have the same limitation. One of the nicest things about lever-style connectors is how easy it is to connect together solid and stranded wires.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yep, the WAGO 2773’s are a no go with stranded wire.

[@scottdowdy3563]

They are only meant for solid wire are you dumb?

[@adamliberman6767]

The Ideal push-in connectors are rated for stranded too. I agree that it doesn't work well unless the strands are perfectly prepared and inserted, but I trust them more for outlet loads than the Wago lever-nuts.

[@rael5469]

@@adamliberman6767 "but I trust them more for outlet loads than the Wago lever-nuts." Why ?

[@TedHopp]

@adamliberman6767 I don't know what you mean by perfectly prepared. Based on my experience with 14-gauge stranded wire, they can only be used if the wire has been tinned. (I haven't tried 12-gauge stranded.) Otherwise the force required for insertion just crumples the wire, no matter how firmly the strands are twisted.

[@n9wox]

I use Wago push in connectors all the time for LED retrofit and ballast bypass. They're cheaper than the lever nuts and work great.

[@ytmadpoo]

Those types of things typically have stranded wire (at least, the LED retrofits I've used), but they come with push-in (3 way) connectors pre-installed. Thank goodness, because otherwise you'd have a hard time pushing those in to your own. They are tinned which is essential, but I just cut off the wimpy push-ins they come with and use my own Wago lever nuts instead. I started doing that because my own home is wired for 12 gauge even for the lighting circuits and those pre-installed push-ins just wouldn't take the 12 (they'll take 14 or smaller gauge). And just kept doing it that way. The few times I've wired my own lighting circuits, I typically still use 12 gauge just because that's what I buy in bulk and although more expensive, it's worth it to me to avoid the hassles... I just run 12 everywhere. :) If I were a pro electrician I couldn't get away with that... too expensive and you'd pass that cost along and it's not worth it to the average joe.

[@davidmlong63]

That is my preferred application as well.

[@OnePotMeals]

I’m late to this but I love the Wago 221’s. The ability to reuse them is key. It isn’t so much reusing them on different circuits it is the ability to make a change to a circuit. For example, in a crowded box, I may switch some wires around or reconfigure some connections for better use of the space. Love the Wago’s.

[@carlospertusi5048]

I haven't read all questions/comments. So, apologies if this is a repeat question. Is there a lever connector that is safe to use for an oven application? I.e. 220v 40A condition. BTW, thank you for all the very useful information. Truly appreciate it. Thank you, again.

[@rafaelrivera9346]

I use both. In specific applications like installing home light fixtures I use the lever push in and 3 wires or more push ins for the ground since a light fixtures with LED has very small loads. On outlets and junction boxes I use wire nuts except for the ground were I use 3 or more wire push connectors.

[@AsForetold]

The Wago 2773 are great for junction boxes where you will install them and most likely will not visit them again for a long while. The lever nuts are better for switches and receptacles where you will use a mix of solid and stranded wires and work with more frequently. BTW, the 2773 are reusable for solid wire but if you use a stranded wire in one of the ports that cannot be reused. You will just abandon that port or use a new 2773

[@vince6829]

Thanks for sharing the results of your test.

[@ElectroAtletico]

I used 221 for Breadboard projects with 22AWG and they worked great, but have moved on to lever nuts (with both IDEAL and Harbor Freight equivalents).

[@chiefsilverback]

It would be interesting to see the temperatures when running a 20A load.

[@LuminairPrime]

I agree that 221 is the way to go, and then a big push-in for lots of annoying grounds. Note that all of these will continue to work past their design limit until the metal melts from the house burning down around it.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

That was what changed my mind about them more than anything else. The amount of power that you have to put through one of these before it fails is so high that the rest of the circuit is on fire first.

[@arnehermann3417]

The push-ins are an absolute go-to for anything low current (e.g. fixed LED pot lights). The 221's are the best thing to happen to wiring in decades. Try using wire-nuts to join 5 wires in a tight box, or try joining 2, 3 or 4 stranded 18ga wires to a 14ga solid in a light fixture using wire nuts and then do the same with a 221. To anyone who still doesn't get it: insurance companies are manifestly picky about codes... and they think the 221's are SAFER because it's so easy to f-up a wire nut connection and that happens all the time. Finally,. 'Nuff said.

[@ELMolliez]

I have no idea of anything you are talking about, but I liked the video. Guess I'm not ready for this level of DIY 😂

[@davidmlong63]

I'm not an electrician I'm just a maintenance guy. I do use push and connectors, mainly because Lowe's has not been carrying any wago connectors, and Lowe's is our approved vendor. But I only use them for low current situations, not for hot or neutral on outlets, I will use them on the earth line. I also use them when I direct wire LED lights because I know that they are low current applications. So to sum it up I will only use them in low current applications.

[@MrAgility888]

Thank you for this data, I use wago lever nuts myself. Would you be able to do a similar video but use a leveton decora edge outlet? I'm curious to know the temperature at the terminals on the edge. You could even compare it to speed wiring.

[@jacoblittle3209]

I work at a convention center as the maintenance manager and the original installer of most of the lights used those push in connectors and they fail regularly. I find them completely melted. The circuit is a 277vac. I replace them with lever nuts with no issues

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback. Do you know what brand of push-in connectors you are finding melted?

[@jacoblittle3209]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs I do not remember the brand but they were yellow, that's all I remember 🤔

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@jacoblittle3209 if they're 2 wire yellow, they're wago 773-102's ... but for them to burn up i suspect a chinese knockoff

[@JasperJanssen]

@@jacoblittle3209so, *not* these push in connectors. How is it that people can -often in one single comment - say that you need good quality wire nuts and not cheap ones, but then also conclude that if cheap push in connectors fail therefore all push in connectors are bad?

[@zekenzy6486]

Great video. Thank you for sharing

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet! 👍

[@renosgarage7451]

you should measure voltage drop across the connectors while under load, that would tell you the resistance of the connector

[@no_handle_required]

I use wago on all my light switches, fan switches, pretty much whatever I need connected.

[@enoynaert]

The lever nut and wire nuts have more surface area to radiate heat. You tested them all in open wire. I would like to know how they would function in a covered junction box that is full to code limits. I suspect that the temperature differences would even out. In fact, push in and wire nuts might actually help cooling because they are smaller and allow more air circulation in the box.

[@linorics]

Have you seen any temperature difference when the connectors are in a sealed box? Love this testing series! I wonder if they were wrapped up in a box with insulation or something if they would over heat.

[@jensschroder8214]

Push in connectors are the standard method for electrical connections in Germany. If there were failures then WAGO would have a big problem. Push-in connectors can also be removed and reused up to 3 times. The trick is to twist the cable and carefully pull it out of the clamp. If the metal spring is not bent it can be used again. But if in doubt, they should be replaced. 20A and up to 400V are no problem.

[@areuaware6842]

Started using the lever nuts several years ago and haven't looked back.

[@williammetzler2435]

When using the lever nut before pushing conductors back in a box I like to rap a little tape around the lever nut for a safety measure

[@derekgrey3927]

The push to connect can't accidentally open when putting wires in a full j box like the lever can if a wire catches it just right. If it happens when putting receptiple in you can't see it.

[@thomasherbig]

Great tests! I’d feel very comfortable using the push-in connectors - as long as the wires don’t come out. Do they work with stranded as well, or is that lever nut territory?

[@Shortwheels316]

Will these push in or lever nuts work with a led dimmer switch

[@Quikshiver]

Since the actual conductor got just as hot as the higher temps on the push-in and lever nuts, my assessment is that what you're really measuring is the difference in insulation between the three.

[@chrisose]

You might want to check to see if there is a voltage drop across your series rig. This drop could be increasing the amp load to some of the connectors and therefore be causing higher heat readings.

[@Sylvan_dB]

I've not used the WAGO push-ins, but I have used their lever nuts. Also I've used the Ideal push-ins. Mostly used them doing ballast removal when changing from fluorescent to LED "tubes" but I used some when I had to cut back burnt wires in an electrical box, couple 3x 2/12's with their grounds together plus add a pigtail for the outlet I was replacing. (Whoever wired it had used the 14ga back stab for 12ga, plus used both screws for the other two romex in that box. One day I noticed the outlet was hot and found insulation burnt back a few inches from the outlet, where it had been heating up carrying downstream loads. 🤦 With only a couple of inches of "not crispy" insulation on wires in the box, push-ins made the connections easier than stripping the wires. (Have you ever noticed that wires getting hot will cause the insulation to stick really well to the copper? PITA!)

[@lagautmd]

I can't help but wonder if this is the right test for a couple of reasons. While the external temperature is certainly something to pay attention to, isn't the internal resistance of the connection important, also? To get into details, the wirenut probably has greater thermal insulation properties than the plastic used in the Wagos or Harbor Freight connectors. That would reduce the temperature at the surface of the wirenut. It may have greater surface area also. So, whatever heat is generated at the connecting points of the wires gets spread out to a larger surface. n I think that means we'd see that under identical *electrical resistance* to the load in the connector it would yield lower temperature. So, it would, for me, be interesting to show what the electrical resistance is in each option.

[@ralfoide]

Wouldn't the temperature be directly related to the electrical resistance of the connector? It's also worth remembering that all the naysayers typically heavily focus on the alleged risk of fire, and that's what drives the temperature check here.

[@foogod4237]

@@ralfoide The resistance determines how much heat is _generated,_ but the other part of the equation is how rapidly that heat is _dissipated_ into the surrounding environment. The temperature of the connector will end up being determined by the balance between the two. Therefore, electrical resistance does not necessarily correspond directly to temperature. The temperature can also be affected by the material the connector is made from, its surface area and contact with the surrounding air, etc. But this is also why measuring resistance is not necessarily the most important test, because arguably what really matters is how hot it will actually get in your walls, and whether that will run the risk of causing damage or fire. Electrical resistance would be an interesting data point, but is really more of an academic question, because it's clear that none of these connectors are going to have a high enough resistance to significantly affect voltage drop (which would be the main reason why electrical resistance itself might actually be a concern in the real world).

[@ChristopherGoggans]

I'm pretty sure that the youtuber Great Scott did this test already, and it needed a benchtop multimeter to test because of the needed resolution. Not exactly something most people have around handy. AFAIK the Wago had a slightlyhigher resistance than the wire nut, but realistically it wasn't a big concern at any sane current draw that they're rated for.

[@Quantris]

there's also the aspect of emissivity. the temperatures in the video were taken using a camera, but the different connectors could have different emissivity unless that was actually corrected for / calibrated, it's not really proper to compare those readings taken from different surfaces (readings from the same surface at different temperatures, however, are generally comparable unless things get extreme leading to nonlinearity)

[@wernerviehhauser94]

I'd do the test another way. Have a dozen sparkies do 30 connections of each type on a timer, test them after installation and test them a year later after having had 1000 thermal cycles. The way you tested it makes wire nuts look FAR better than they actually are.....

[@TomCee53]

I use a variety depending on how much space I have. If I just have to connect two wires, I tend to use the push-ins, unless I expect to make changes.

[@wmcomprev]

What I would worry about with the push-in units is whether or not they have the same problem as the backstabbing receptacles. They may be fine to begin with, but after repeated heating and cooling, they tend to get loose. Do you know if this applies to the push-in WAGO connectors also?

[@coopertracy6581]

Can you test the 613 vs the 413? Curious to see if the 10 gauge rated connector handles heat better

[@Sembazuru]

The levernuts (any reliable brand) are really good for installing lighting fixtures or any other device that have captive stranded wires and connecting those stranded wires to the solid house wiring. The push-in connectors aren't as good for stranded wires, especially if the strands are fine (thicker strands are ok in the push-in connectors, but I prefer not to use any stranded wires in any push-in connectors).

[@jaykid007]

What happens if you plug a 10 awg wire into those small wago handling 12 awg or higher?

[@eigengrau_hund]

I'm concerned that doing good joinery including pre-twisting with wire nuts takes a bit of practice. The pre-twisted solid core wire is also subject to heat cycling. Perhaps the spring in the Wagos/Ideal connectors handles the expansion/contraction better over time.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

Why pre-twist? You're supposed to use the wire nut to twist the wires. You put the wires into the wire nut and twist until you get a couple good twists outside of the wire nut.

[@csbarbourv]

Does changing the relative position of the connectors change their performance? In other words, instead of wire nut, lever wago, push in wago, what if it was push in wago, wire nut, lever wago? Also, I suspect the plastic of the wire nut is doing a better job of containing the heat and not allowing the thermal camera to read it.

[@100vg]

Are the Wire Nuts in both recent test videos in Series or Parallel? It looks like they are in Series on the Black Hot line. If in Series, the Voltage to each successive wire nut is reduced by the Voltage Drop across on the preceding one, and therefore the Voltage Drop Heat is not as accurate as Parallel would be. I was surprised that the Push-In Wire Nut had the highest heat of all, but I would have stayed with the 36-piece Lever Nut assortment pack anyway for the convenience of reusability of the Lever design.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yep all the connectors are wired in series. Although I didn’t measure the exact voltage drop I believe it is minimal.

[@rajanpatel8321]

@EverydayHomeRepairs are you still offering zoom consults? I have some questions about dryer vent flexible hoses.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Not really, we do have a HUGE facebook group where you could post your question and pictures. You will get a ton of feedback and have to filter through some "funny guys" but usually you can get some good options and direction. Search "Everyday Home Repairs Community"

[@michman2]

I didn't hear it, but I assume all are UL listed.

[@eng3d]

All of them are UL-listed.

[@Dutch-Power-Cow]

Wago is the best...hands down!!!

[@sympak]

My house has Wago push-in connectors everywhere, I haven't found a wire nut yet. They are such a pain

[@Matt314159]

I'm mainly looking at the 221-612 10awg one for inside a dryer on the heating circuit where I need to splice a bit of extra cable to reach the terminal block on a repair. Any concerns using for this application? Would be pretty consistently used at up to 30 amps.

[@rickpaulos]

what would be the temps at 20 amps? and what temp to start a fire? i am not concerned about 30 amps when my 15 and 20 amp breakers will trip.

[@pb7379-j2k]

Is this just clickbait? The thumbnail says "Do Not Use!" but it should say "Do not run your 20A circuits at 30A!" What exactly was the surprising result here? They seemed to do pretty well considering they were 50% over their rated capacity.

[@rjtumble]

I don’t think I’d use them unless I had a real space crunch. Not necessarily because I don’t trust them, I just like the idea that I can reuse the Wago’s.

[@pyromethious]

Is testing them connected to the same wire (at the same time) accurate?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

There would be a little voltage drop at each connector but I think the difference is negligible.

[@christopherhume8896]

​@@EverydayHomeRepairs They will all be carrying the same current when connected this way so it will give the most accurate results.

[@stans5270]

Will the cumulative effects of three push in wire nuts increase the heat in a sealed junction/outlet box? What would the temperature of the wire be if there was zero resistance in the wire [straight run]. If push in connectors are so good, why do the ones used in backstabbing outlets fail?

[@dustisamust5602]

Great work as always. It would be interesting to see the temperatures of all these connectors at 20 amps i.e., at the maximum current they are actually rated for since that is where the breaker would cut off the power.

[@rael5469]

The thing about the wire nut is that it is a metal nut inside. Even if all the plastic dried up and cracked off the wires would still be nutted together....as long as they don't ground or short to something else. Is that true of the WAGO connector. Is the inside of it as strong as a wire nut?

[@georgacher7889]

The plastic is also just the insulation and has no impact on the clamping force, the wires are inside a metal cage. Essentially it's just a "linearized" wire nut that catches exactly one wire.

[@RHort1337]

Wish you would start including the Harbor Freight wago clones in these tests

[@shubinternet]

So, for these 2773 push-in connectors, how does that compare to receptacles with back-stab connections? Is that not exactly the same functionality and mostly implemented the same?

[@andrewt9204]

Same concept, but much poorer execution on outlets/switches, which is why those fail so often. Wago/Ideal stab connectors are a lot more robust.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@andrewt9204 also wagos have a busbar, backstab connections don't

[@RB-rv3yc]

Hey, shouldn't you do this in a garage instead of your home office?

[@redkey6538]

Can Wago connectors be used on outdoor fixtures or out door equipment on your house? And still be up to code?

[@gregjhartman]

Wago offers protective connection boxes/cases to protect the lever nuts and incoming/outgoing wires. All of the Wago boxes are mountable, and use a hinged top cover and a gel-filled bottom compartment. Also, there are generic boxes without the gel on Amazon. These protective connections boxes/cases are *not* for use inside an outlet/switch box.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

For damp areas, yes. The code calls for outdoor fixtures to be sealed with gaskets and/or caulk. For unusually harsh environments, they do make a one-time-use waterproof connector that is filled with goo to seal the connection.

[@ericfairbrother3503]

Out of curiosity money and time set aside how would a solder joint hold up? I would assume it would be better not being a mechanical connection.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

In the UK, crimps, wagos and solder are the only joints considered 'maintenance free'

[@nottheinternet6276]

Would like to see the "diy special wirenut procedure" compared in these tests - I've seen it way too many times when rewiring an outlet. Stick 2 wires in a wirenut and twist it on without twisting the wires around each other at all. Just rely on the force of the spring in the wirenut to hold the wires together.

[@DaHaiZhu]

How easy is it to pull out the wires from the Push-In nuts???

[@davidcarp5935]

Not designed for re use.

[@DaHaiZhu]

@@davidcarp5935 : That you Mr. Obvious. Thank you for assuming stupidity first. I'll do the same: Back-stabbing on outlets and switches is not recommend mainly because they pull out easily. Do these Push-Ins hold better and so don't have that concern, or are they just as risky to use?

[@JLPYYZ]

I would say in my experience push in connectors (single use) work pretty well with solid wire but are indeed impossible to pull out the wire without damaging the wire or the connector. If I've ever needed to swap out something I just end up cutting the wire. The wago lever design are really great, they hold just as well and extremely reusable. They are also smaller than wirenuts and fold really nicely into a box

[@MoneyManHolmes]

It’s very easy. Just twist back and forth while pulling. Some are rated for reuse, and some are not. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to see what they say before reusing.

[@Brandonbuilt]

I don’t like how the connections are in series with each other. The temp increase does indicate resistant and therefore a small volt drop across each connector. So the lever is not getting full voltage or amperage through it and push in is getting less than the lever. So temps could actually be higher. Test should be done with only one connector in the circuit at one time. I still think they will all pass with flying colours though. Thought?

[@Bob-L42]

I’m not an electrician but I had the same concern. Shouldn’t they be tested on separate circuits?

[@jamil1637]

Any idea if Wago can be used with aluminum wire ?

[@edherdman9973]

WAGO says that you can, but you need to use their special "WAGO Alu-Plus Contact Paste"

[@Birko64]

Push ins only work with solid wire. Lever ones work both with solid and stranded wires.

[@Khoruzhin]

WAGO Push-In connectors are reusable. You can pull out the conductor and push in a new one. WAGO manual says: To remove, simply twist and pull the connector and conductor at the same time.

[@Mixolixplosion]

That is only true if you use solid wires.. But if you use 7-stranded conductors the connector is not reusable.

[@Khoruzhin]

@@Mixolixplosion you can use this connectors only with solid conductors. This is a manufacturer's specification.

[@Mixolixplosion]

@@Khoruzhin My bad. By "flex" I mean solid stranded, not fine stranded wire.. In case you use solid stranded it is almost impossible to pull the wire out without damaging the connector.

[@Khoruzhin]

​@@Mixolixplosion you can't use a stranded wire in a Push-In connector. Only solid. It's stated in the datasheet. Stranded and fine-stranded wires can be used with Cage Clamp connectors like Wago 221 or 222.

[@Mixolixplosion]

@@Khoruzhin Wrong. You can use 7 stranded wires (1.5mm² - 4mm²). It's in their ad.. posted by wago uk and ireland.

[@EcoMouseChannel]

Obviously, you are now going to have to compare the most commonly available push-in connector... Ideal brand with the Wago push-in for an apples to apples comparison. I want to see if the little bus bar in the Ideals' is more stout and can handle more amperage showing a lower temp reading.

[@twistedhillbilly6157]

Indoors, no socks, carpet floor, flammable materials everywhere doing a test that may catch fire.. Yeah,, This is where I want to get my info..

[@KameraShy]

I would have problems using the push-in Wagos for stranded, especially the very thin gauge stranded wire that is used with light fixtures. As for homeowner's insurance, mine is skyrocketing. Along with car insurance. The latter up 50% in 18 months. I did price compare and the competitors were actually higher. Something unsavory is going on.

[@jstone1211]

I actually prefer them when mating solid copper wires with fan wires or most ceiling lights. I just fold the stranded back so I double the amount of stranded wire in the nut.....its my favorite application for them..

[@N-M424]

Do you have temp measurements at at the beginning, time = 0? You only show at 5min and beyond.

[@Banzai51]

The problem is KZbinrs say don't use ANY connectors, even the wingnut ones that have been used for decades.

[@lkj0822g]

So, a wire nut with a properly twisted wire is better (from a heat perspective) than a "buss bar" type connector. Not surprising as a properly twisted wire probably has more sectional contact than the push-in or lever type connector. How about testing the DIY'er practice where they do not twist the wires and just connect them with a wire nut. Also, from a point of reference, it would be helpful to provide the wire temperature. As others have pointed out in the last video, copper is an excellent conductor of heat and I wonder how much that affects the results since the connectors are in series and are close together. To get a true picture, you probably would have to test each connector separately and compare to a baseline with no connectors.

[@pit4955]

I swear this guy is obsessed with push in connectors 😂

[@w2tty]

I think because he gets a lot of push back in the comments and people don’t believe him at his word so he needs to prove it.

[@kickeramps]

They probably throw him money to advertise for them.

[@Adamscarwashchicago]

Mine caused a short circuit that took me a week to find on my circuit

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

@kickeramps I receive affiliate commission from Amazon but no sponsorship dollars from WAGO.

[@lukecrue1]

​@Adamscarwashchicago the connectors caused the short circuit?

[@cornpop7805]

The variable he doesn't represent well in his testing is time. He runs it for some time, but not long enough for the vicious cycle of bad connections to occur. Also, the addition of a very small resistance is very difficult to measure, but it can have an enormous effect over time. Think of resistance spot welding. The cross section of the contact tips is roughly the size of the weld nugget. The difference between the resistance of that cross section of the copper contact tips and the (say steel) it's welding, is usually thousandths of an ohm. Yet, the steel is melted (goes plastic), and the contact tips will last for hundreds of welds. With electrical connectors, the internal resistance will be less, and the current will likely be less, but there will be some areas of resistance that is higher than the wire itself. That resistance will heat the wire and the connectors. That heat will gently accelerate oxidation. That oxidation will increase resistance. Increased resistance = more heat... There's your vicious cycle. The push connections will likely start off with higher resistance, due to a smaller area of contact. The wire nut is superior because the two wires are in direct contact with eachother, over a length (let's say 1/2"). None of the other connectors will come close to the amount of contact area, as the wire nut. It'll never matter in a hall outlet. But it will in something like a well pump. Really, anything that pulls higher currents for longer periods of time. Things go bad quickly after oxidation kicks in, but oxidation takes time!

[@andrewt9204]

I dunno, I've had Wago's (lever nuts) on my 5000W garage heater for a few years now, there's barely a heat difference between the Wago and bare wire using 10ga to connect to the 12ga internal wiring. That thing runs pretty constant when it starts getting below 0F. We'll see over more time, but everything still looks good after several MWh of throughput and a some very high humidity. You're going to have oxidation issues with twist nuts too as there is still an additional resistance on twisted together wires. There's more contact area to mitigate issues, but it's still there. Also, Aaon commercial rooftop units have been using 221's for their compressor power wiring for a while now. I haven't heard of any issues yet, but would be interested to see if there are.

[@darriuscole8544]

He also did not tell us whether he twisted the wires under the wire-nut here. It looks like they are not.

[@darriuscole8544]

​@@andrewt9204 - He is right though. Wire-nuts have "teeth" as well. So you will have the wires twisted together over more surface, which is probably good enough to hold if you only used tape, and you have the wire nut dug into the surface of each of the wires underneath. The wire-nut will hold up better over time.

[@KevinNguyen-zn4vv]

With a ~+100% tolerance in temperature...it's all about cost and convenience. Twisting multiple wires is a PIA, and reusing them is impossible. I can use the WAGO to play around with different configurations without any damage to the wire or the connector.

[@angelisone]

Do they have to connect 240V 40Amp (6G) line wires?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Not in the lever nuts.

[@markelliott7917]

Spray paint or equal layers of electrical tape one each connector so they have the same emissivity.

[@pbm___000]

I can see a difference of wire heat between connectors. I think the test should be separate not in series.

[@billd4470]

Agreed. Test should be separate not in series.

[@sergey8644]

By doing the test in series, you guarantee that each connector has exactly the same amps passing through it. That means that you have a fair comparison, and the best connector displays the lowest temperature. Personally I would like to see a comparison of a poorly made connection, like a poorly connected wire nut.

[@pbm___000]

@@sergey8644 can't test poor connections (equally).

[@whattheschmidt]

@@sergey8644 Agreed - and all that has to be done is swap the connectors around to show the same results.

[@rackemyt9999]

Wouldn't the push-in connectors be the same as "backstabbing" on an outlet? I thought that was bad.

[@whattheschmidt]

No, it's a bus bar similar to the 221s but cannot be reused. The outlet backstabbing is a terrible design prone to failure (not talking about the new lever push ins, those are more similar to Wagos). Those outlet connections weaken overtime because there isn't a spring pushing against it, just the one and done slight tension. So the heat and cool cycles and years and years of use wear them down.

[@dand3975]

The tombstone ends on Old fluorescent light fixtures are all factory backstabbed connector's. They can be taken apart straightened out and re-back stabbed to make a decent connection, but as compared to a Wego lever but the Wego is a far better connector then a backstabbed connection.

[@darriuscole8544]

​@@dand3975 - The lever-nuts maybe, but he asked about the push-ins. That has to be a function of tension over time. There simply is not enough material in it for there to be much else in play.

[@dand3975]

@@darriuscole8544 I agree with you. I would not use the push in connectors Ever. I use 221 lever nuts for low amperage circuits. Anything drawing a lot of amperage like 15 or 20 would be wires pre-twisted; wire nuts, followed by a thorough wrap of electrical tape over the wire nut and the incoming wires.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Not remotely close, US style backstab terminals only the spring is making contact, wagos have a busbar that the spring clamps the wire to

[@rael5469]

Can the WAGO lever nuts come loose? Can the lever be opened by vibration or some sort of stretching of the wires? I don't know. Can anything cause the lever to come unlatched? That's one question I can think of about the lever nuts.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

The wires can come out if they are just stuffed in the box randomly. What I learned is to pre-fold the wires to near their final position, then trim them all to the same length before stripping and nutting them. You don’t want one wire to be at loads more tension than the others or it can slip out over time.

[@rael5469]

@@MoneyManHolmes Makes sense.

[@mathewtodd480]

As a German electrician, the push ins aren't single use. Twist and pull to get the cables out

[@IvanMr]

Are push-ins ok to add an outlet to the 14 gauge circuit to connect 15A dehumidifier?

[@mathewtodd480]

@IvanMr We don't use AWG here but I know that bigger number means smaller. assuming all the wires you're connecting are rated to carry the 15A and your breaker supports it then yes the connectors are more than fine

[@greggschachterleppc2769]

As an electrical contractor my most common service call is dealing with backstabbed plugs. I have tentatively started using Wagos in switch boxes and fixtures. For high load applications, no merci.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

Every outlet in my home was backstabbed by the original electrician. Not only that, but they are the “newer” 14 gauge-only backstabs, but he either drilled them out or forced 12 gauge wire into the holes. I’ve been steadily replacing them over time. A few had already failed when I moved in.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Been using them 10 yrs here in the UK on 32A circuits with no issues except for one that failed due to corrosion from water ingress

[@woodstream6137]

Used the wagos when i retrofitted 3 florescent fixtures to LED. Super simple for this noob.

[@truglodite]

I think there's more to this story that you might want to touch on. You used metal boxes, exposed all around to room temp ambient air. Try again with a plastic box buried in insulation inside a wall that is at 140F or more (this scenario is actually quite common in the USA). Also FLiR is nice for cinematics, but really a properly installed thermistor/thermocouple will yeild more credible results.

[@colinpovey7923]

I will stick with the Wago Lever nut. Why? Too many things today have stranded wire, and do not trust putting them into an 'insert once and done' connector.

[@mike94560]

I use Wago lever nuts. Comes in very handy when connecting to stranded wire. Like my ceiling fans.

[@Andrico77]

Just watch out, so many knockoffs out there and they are fire hazards. Buy from a big box store.