Debunking the Pros: Can WAGO Lever Nuts Handle Heavy Electrical Loads?

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I setup a test to find out if WAGO 221 lever nuts can handle heavy electrical loads. I will test wire nuts vs WAGO 221 and take temperature measurements while running 23 Amps at 120 Volts through each connector for 20 minutes. At the end we will compared the results and confirm or deny the concern of many Pros that WAGO lever nuts can't handle heavy electrical loads and will fail.
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[@JonnieB.]

The wago lever nuts are tested to European and German standards, and they are good standards for safety. While it may have slightly higher resistance due to the busbar arrangement, it is far less likely to experience user error and a poor connection in a DIY situation. The locations I use these most are for light fixtures, which have low draw. Good demonstration and good data. That was a well designed experiment. Thanks for putting it out there!

[@docferringer]

I want to clarify something Scott keeps saying which is a little misleading (and that is Wago's fault): Wago 221 lever nuts are a FAMILY of products with different current ratings and gauges of wire. The ones Scott is using are the 221-41X side of the family which are rated at 20A/300V. The X represents the number of conductors, so 221-415 is a 5-wire Wago. Now the misleading part: there are different Wago 221s for higher current applications up to 30A/300V and supporting conductors from 20-10 AWG. If you need Wagos for higher current circuits then those are what you need, and they are available in 221-612, 613, and 615 sizes. Sadly, no inline splice connector in the higher range yet.

[@davemiller6055]

I'm a licensed electrician. I've been working for 25 years. I've used Wagos for most of that time. We've used them in residential, commercial and industrial conditions. Lighting retrofits, new home construction, remodels, and pretty much everything including high amp loads. I've been back to some of those jobs months or years later for various reasons and been back inside some of the boxes with the Wagos installed. None were melted. All were perfectly fine. I've never had to go back to a job because of a problem with the Wagos.

[@riffdex]

I’ve seen some shotty work done on home electrical components. It’s not uncommon to see a wire nut hanging on by a thread. I’d say if you know what you’re doing as an electrician you will get similar results from using either option (some prefer the ease of the WAGOs sure, but I mean in terms of function). But a poorly installed wire nut could actually be a bigger threat posed compared to the higher resistance of the WAGO connections.

[@Adi-S]

I can only say one thing:

[@billbarto125]

2:41

[@brucea.5602]

I have been replacing my ceiling lights with integrated LED fixtures and exclusively used Wagos since the current draw is so much lower and is so much easier for me to install. No more hoping the stranded and solid wires will twist together.

[@dubmob151]

For the comparative testing, it's simpler to just measure the voltage drop rather than doing all the temperature measuring, because the heat generated is basically that voltage drop times the current. That calculation is the amount of power being dissipated in the box, and easily compared between each other as well as the baseline.

[@johnnyobigcatdaddy]

I have an older model mobile home, and if you have ever seen the nightmare of those plug-in receptacles, where there maybe 3 Romex wires at 1 receptacle, it will get a little spooky as to solve the issue of a replacement. So I came to KZbin to learn how to make my own repairs, and is where I learned about the WAGO Lever Nuts. So I went to Amazon, I ordered a small bag of them. The day they arrived I fixed my first receptacle, and before I went to sleep, went back to Amazon and ordered the BIG variety box of them. I did this 2 or 3 years back and have not had any issues so far, and will purchase them again if they are needed! I have rheumatoid arthritis, and these are so much easier to use than wire nuts! Peace and love and stay safe everyone, and remember to turn off your main breaker, before you begin your work!

[@johnlichtenthal8759]

You read my mind. After seeing you recommend Wago numerous times in your videos, I still hesitated when it came to my projects. “But the resistance is higher with the Wago; it’s safer to stick to wire nuts,” I told my self. Well, not any more! Thanks to your well-planned and well-run demonstration, I no longer have any hesitation. This is what I love most about your channel: you don’t just reach conclusions about different methods or parts, you take the time and effort to break them down and test them. Excellent work, yet again.

[@arickbakken]

First, thank you for taking the time to run this test and create this content. Very original and to the point. I REALLY appreciate it. I'll add, no one on any electrical channel or reddit ever seems to have an appreciation for how over-designed everything actually is. That means, you should use the approved connector, per it's instructions, that personally gives you the highest confidence. I can sweat copper and connect PEX. Both have good applications. But on a daily basis, I'm using PEX. However, on a DYI electrical, I use wire nuts because I think they are cheap and fine. I'd have zero problem with a wago too, if it came with a device.

[@gerufish]

I am a DIYer, not an electrician. I have used Wago connectors and will continue to do so. After seeing your test, I feel more confident using them. Great test! I have learned so much watching your videos. Keep up the GREAT work.

[@ehsnils]

My experience with wire nuts is that they can be a bit tricky to get right, especially if you mix wire types. The Wago do allow you to transit between just about any wire types without risk of an unreliable connection.

[@martyb3783]

Very interesting. Your graphs show me exactly what I would expect. No surprises, no concerns. Great video!

[@Bradleyscience]

Well done, I suspected the WAGO would be slightly more resistive (heat) however, it still works quite well and makes the jobs much easier. Cheers

[@vmccall399]

I am glad that you put in the max temp on the graph. It really put into perspective.

[@spud13x13]

Great move plotting the limit temp to scale the three connection options properly. I may be a mechanical engineer, not an EE, but a good experiment is a good experiment. I go Wago from here on out. I'll take a few degrees delta T at max load over an non-robust connection any day of the week.

[@robbehr8806]

Very informative! Maybe, do another video measuring voltage drop under load comparing 10 wire nuts in series to 10 Wagos in series. I suggest comparing using both a heat gun, then a typical load, like an HDTV, fridge, or fan.

[@JoeCdaYT]

As someone that uses these in the HVAC trade for making connections to fans, compressors and solenoids, I have a high respect for them in their uses. I have found using wire nuts in high moisture environments like the cooled boxes of walk-in coolers/freezers and reach-in boxes they perform better. The wire nuts have rusted on me and I have to cut wire back and re-terminate with a new device VS the WAGO I can lift the lever pull the old device out and connect the new one without having a rust issue and loosing wire length. I still have my questions about them in high vibration environments and therefor will use either a wire nut or a termination block. Thank you for the insight into the temperature issues that people voice and prove they are still a better option for DIYers to use since strand to solid wire is not easy for the novice to do. I do use them at home in automotive too but in low current applications.

[@dfirth224]

There is another KZbin video that tests Wago. They slowly cranked the amps up until the wires were smoking, but the Wago was not smoking. I love Wago. Much easier to use than wire nuts. You also have visual confirmation of the wire contacts. Wago is made in Germany and they have been in use in Europe for 20 years with no problems. Back in 1968 when I was studying to be an electrician we learned how to make solder splices like they did in the 1940s. After applying solder then wrap with rubber tape and then friction tape. I have run across old solder splices but I have never had to make one.