Can the Evolution Miter Saw really cut through steel? You may be shocked at what you see!

Evolution Power Tools
15 Amp 10 in. Sliding Compound Miter Saw w/ Multi-Material Cutting Blade for Wood, Decking, Metal, Laminate, Plastic
Buy Here homedepot.sjv.io/Vdxz6
Designed to cut a wide range of materials without changing blades
Impressive cut capacity 11-13/16 x 3-9/16 inch, cuts 4 inch posts
Includes blade, laser, dust bag, long cord, quick-release clamp
Evolution R255SMS 10 in. TCT Multi-Material Cutting Sliding Miter saw is optimized to cut mild steel, non-ferrous metals, wood, copper, pipe, tubing plastic and even wood with embedded nails with a single blade. No blade change means faster work. Works well with Veranda and Trex composite decking.
Accurate: Cuts within plus or minus 0.5°
24 tooth TCT blade with optimized gearbox ensures the best RPM for cutting steel and wood with embedded nails
Clean and consistent smooth cutting in wood
Virtually no burrs on steel = instant workable finish
0° - 45° bevel and 50˚ - 50˚ miter
Wide base and rubber feet reduces vibration and increases precision
Reliable: 160 hour motor life
Cut test endurance at 40,000 cuts
Combined components improves durability and accuracy
Precision component machining to deliver consistent cutting accuracy
Backed by 3-year limited warranty
Powerful: 15A motor
Hi-torque gearbox increases motor and blade-life
Cuts through steel like a knife through butter
Safe: No heat and virtually no sparks
Built in safe and convenient cable hooks
Ambidextrous, ergonomic, horizontal trigger with comfortable grip = combats repetitive strain

[@nthlevel]

I think you need to edit the video on how not to cut angled metal. That's an accident waiting to happen. Clamp it down and come down. Use wood or something to stop top it vibrating and ensure its firm

[@kinsoncooper7333]

Exactly..

[@garyjerniganjr]

Yep. Use it like a chop saw instead of a radial saw

[@kanegunn6545]

angle should be flat against back fence

[@garnetsuss4881]

Agreed, that was user error, not the fault of the saw.

[@lights80088]

Yes you can cut angle iron. You have to clamp it down properly. I've used the Makita, Skilsaw etc metal saws to cut angle. As for your arbor, I really believed the forces exerted from you improper method of cutting the angle iron caused the damage.

[@tomthumb3085]

I’ve had this model for over three years, bought especially to cut steel. It works perfectly. It easily manages 6mm steel, aluminium, wood and plastic. Definitely the best mitre saw I’ve ever owned. The loose blade has been caused by the kickback when it hit the angle iron, which should have been clamped down correctly. Don’t use this machine again until you’ve replaced the blade and checked the spindle attachment. Something broke along the way, probably the blade attachment bushes. Mine has no run out or movement in the blade at all.

[@arniekando6846]

Of course the blade will wable after the angle iron stunt

[@treycantrell6857]

You just liked my comment on vcg construction where I said the Ridged saw won. Just wanted to say I appreciate your videos. You don't waste time like VCG, you get straight to the point and it's very helpful. Thanks.

[@WrenchAddiction]

I couldn’t agree more. All the time VCG wastes on shout outs and other non essential verbiage wears on me. TRZ does a great job!

[@brianflower5490]

I cancelled my vcg sub. Because he has too much verbal and not enough action !

[@jordancottage4329]

I've cut a lot of angle iron with my R255SMS... You really need to clamp down any steel you are cutting. Prolongs the life of the blade by reducing vibration and keeps it from jumping around like the piece you tried to cut did. The only downside is I've managed to dull a multipurpose blade after ~40 cuts of 1 1/2 X 1/8 inch angle and a few pieces of pine 2x4. I've ordered the blade specifically made for steel and hopefully that lasts at least 2-3x as long otherwise very expensive per cut. Overall a very versatile saw at a great price though.

[@ToolReviewZone]

Have you had any issue with blade wobble?

[@jonathangarzon2798]

@@ToolReviewZone probably heard this dozens of times but metal is a diffent animal you woodworkers need to be careful, if you don't know how to work with metal get a buddy who does. I've seen contractors grenade saws and blades in their face doing what you did. Be careful

[@bradley3549]

@@24revealer This, 100%. Once you frag the blade by using the saw wrong of COURSE you're going to have a wobble!

[@VCGConstruction]

Looks like a very versatile saw! In your opinion who would you say this saw is best geared toward, carpenter, metal workers?

[@ToolReviewZone]

Carpentry for sure as I would use a chop saw if I worked with metal. That being said, definitely need to figure out what's up with that arbor

[@phantaxsniper3681]

@@ToolReviewZone defenitely dont buy this saw for carpentry. You want a saw with higher rpm and one that dosnt have as much slop in the sliding mechanism as this one.

[@80zbabyz]

I like that saw . Got sum cool features !

[@quickie3]

Do not cut steel like you cut wood ., bring the saw down on to the metal, so you don push as you do on wood .

[@damianhendricks818]

That was my thought as well, dont slide the saw into metal. Go down onto it. The base has way more support than the fence. You should be able to cut angle iron just fine if its clamped down and you just saw down through it.

[@hu5116]

As others have said, yes you can cut angle, but you got to clamp it down! You should clamp EVERYTHING ALWAYS! You are cutting metal not wood. The way you showed the angle is the best way to cut it (but clamped!). You can also turn the angle on side with flange closest to the back, and use a wood block to hold it firm (with the clamp!). Mine does not have that wiggly blade. You may have croaked it with that pretty violent kickback on the angle iron (because you didn’t clamp it!). I have the double bevel 255ds and I absolutely LOVE this saw. But you got to treat it with respect and treat it as a precision instrument. And ALWAYS wear sealed goggles ( not just glasses) AND a face shield, because chips fly everywhere. They will get down your shirt, shoes etc. think like your welding. I also wear a tight smock to help deflect chips or a cut off if it were to kick up. But nothing loose that could catch on blades! I also always wear light gloves (the easy to tear away kind) because the metal edges can be razor sharp and cut you if not careful. Also hearing protection because it is fairly loud. I researched everything out there and found the Evolution to be the best out there, particularly with both the combo blade, their specialty blades, and the fact you can even use any 5/8” blade you heart might desire. But note in that regard that regular saw blades are designed to run faster than the Evolution which runs slower to cut metal, so your cut speed might need to be a little slower for the same quality (thinking plywood mostly here). It’s not perfect and there are some aspects I would change (too many nooks and crannies for chips to collect for example). But clean it with a good crevice tool on your vac, and maybe after with some air, and it will work very well for you IMHO. I’m sure Bosch and Dewalt will take issue, but I think this is the best saw of it’s kind out there bar none. I’ll bet it gives a Festool a run for its money!

[@GeorgeJFW]

I have seen alot of reviews of this saw it time for a tear down!

[@aaroninks]

Clamp that metal down, it’ll cut it like butter. That’s not wood!

[@armindapereira4433]

I got one and I love it! Last model.

[@AutobahnDan]

Thanks for the video! Never heard of that brand!

[@ToolReviewZone]

You got it Autobahn!

[@BrandonContracting]

With the right blade (diablo steel demon for example) you could use any miter saw to cut metal. The new diamond steel blades have a very high rpm rating.

[@ToolReviewZone]

I've been using the bandsaw and the blades you just mentioned on the circular saw. They have been awesome

[@popnicable]

Hi! Thank you for sharing your experience with this SMS. Great video! I have a R255SMS but not the "+" version. On yours, you have an issue with the spindle. Mine has no backlash in any direction. Please be careful with the clamp especially when you cut steel. If the workpiece is moving during the cutting process you have to stop the saw otherwise you can damage the the workpiece, the blade and even the saw. That include the spindle. But looking at you how you use the circular saw and other hand tools, you looks that you know this better than me or many others :).

[@mikew151Manhattan]

this saw is ok for a diy'er where precision isn't needed. i found it to cut angles slightly of. I now have a festool kapex but i still use this saw for donkey work. BUT 1 massive plus with this is it super light and portable so this is my go to saw for framing etc and stuff that will not be seen.

[@es47]

Lock the saw in the back position before cutting any steel i cut angle iron all the time with not even 1 kickback read the instructions says to lock the slide rails before cutting steel

[@TheJACKCOLORADO]

You can cut angle. You just need to lay it on a flat side and clamp it. I could see what was going to happen the moment you put it on the table. And honestly, you should clamp all metal when cutting with a miter. But great video.

[@bobbilljim01]

Keep the open side down and cut from the peak down. Just don’t pull the slide out

[@tigerseye73]

For angle iron, you should lay bottom side flat in horiz. direction and place vertical side flat against the back fence. Don't push into the steel. Simply pull handle straight down. You should also use a clamp to prevent any tendency of the piece from moving. This particular saw looks to be too lightly made for any steel work.

[@JoseMGomez-hg1hh]

Could this 10 inch skirt board at 55 dregrees for stairs?

[@chadwickwicky67]

Yes definitely seen that coming from a mile away. Putting in that position without anything holding it down is exactly what I would do if I wanted that to happen. With that said , even in that position if you were even holding it firmly , you still could’ve made the cut. Pointed part of angle facing up coming straight down with the blade would’ve been the way to go. Very unfair to even address any issue with the saw after that fiasco. It would be like hitting a curb with a new car @ 35 mph and saying the steering wheel is off center , I’ve never seen a new car come like that before…. Cool saw tho , considering one!

[@Rusty-Brown_]

what is the rpm of the saw motor ???

[@beingfair4154]

the piece of angle was not clamped down hence the kick back from the disk

[@arisskarpetis]

Clamp the metal stock!! Lock the slides and only chop down!! The saw is not rigid enough for a slide cut. It is not a milling machine. Also get some compressed air pointed at the blade. The cooler you keep it the more cuts you will get. I have the old version of this saw and I have cut quite a bit of steel with it, a lot of wood and quite a few bricks.

[@TheMingilator]

You don't want to cut metal like you would timber, lock the slide fully retracted, the angle of cut when you slide into the material is definitley gonna kick the material upwards, think of this machine like a metal cold cut saw that can also cut wood, with the slide locked back the angle of cut will push the material backwards into the fence, as a machine for cutting timber it's not great, roational speed is too low, as a metal cutting machine its a little fast but gets you there as you say, its the blade that mnakes it special, just don't try and use the blade on a normal wood cutting mitre saw, the rotational speed is way to high for the material and blade

[@michaelfairchild]

Cool saw, but to cut metal nothing beats brute force of a grinder plus all the sparks shower.

[@malmal5158]

angle shuold have been one flat side down other at back edge and clamped down i had no problems

[@ronnieg6358]

Why this saw dosent have a propre substancial clamp is unbelievable. I would never use one without.

[@zoozolplexOne]

Cool!!

[@Brandon-yp2wy]

Not bad for the price! I agree, the blade is not supposed to move that much. Serious lack of precision with that much wobble in the blade. Good video Clint!

[@ToolReviewZone]

Thanks bro. I tried everything to get it tight but nothing worked

[@jimidero]

It all plastic made? All black parts holding the disk, the two linear guides holders are plastic?

[@jimidero]

Anyone tried aluminium profiles?

[@lucfunicelli3009]

ya you dont want to use that blade on other saw's RPM is to high. There is a reason that the evolution saw is at 2500prm's

[@ToolReviewZone]

Thanks for the heads up Luc!

[@jasonbabila6006]

You’re got some Seattle Seahawks colors on. 💪🏽✊🏽

[@screaming_quagga]

If you lock the slider your material will not move around on you when cutting metal. when you slide back you are pushing the material laterally instead of vertical. also most wood specific miter saws run about 4500rpm so that metal blade/ multi material blade probably tops out at about 2800 or so i bet. most metal specific saws run at lower rpm and higher torque. that is why your first cuts on wood were a bit rough (torque, rpm, and mostly the blade). just some info for you.

[@fdghn4567]

I look at my Evolution as a better than nothing tool, my blade didn't stand up well to laminate flooring and a replacement blade was going to be approx 1/3 of what the tool cost, there is also an attempt to monopolise on blades because Evolution use an odd size shaft. I fitted a much better blade with a reducer ring and it performs better but still the worst mitre saw I have ever owned. I wouldn't use mine for metal,. Fine wood dust, plastic parts and hot sparks, great combo.

The angle iron needs to be elbow up the point of the iron facing up then you contacted with the blade appropriately so that it doesn't jump and scare the guy running the saw.

[@Chilllybob]

Did anybody call the manufacturer & ask if the arbor slight wobble is normal or a defect?

[@ToolReviewZone]

Hi Chill. It was a defective saw. I did a second live stream vid with a second saw and had no issues

[@Chilllybob]

thanks for the reply.

[@theplantpotman]

When using the multi purpose blade (orange) due to the weight of blade you get a very very slight movement/ wobble but it is better if you use the dedicated black wood only blade as this is different weight, i had a long chat in person with top tech guys at evolution here in the uk and jeze use clamps!!! Angle goes upright, and lock the head in its rear most position! Top tip if your using the sms+ it comes with the front clamp for christs sake try using that as well! Stay safe keep fingers hands clear or better still buy a metal chop saw

[@TJSWOODWORKINGSHOP]

Hey brother that is a crazy and very nice miter saw I love it,It's something I need for my shop to for sure,I hope you can find out about the problem bro ok,Much love family take care I will see you later :)

[@ToolReviewZone]

Thanks bro. Have a great day and thanks for the comment buddy!

[@TJSWOODWORKINGSHOP]

@@ToolReviewZone No problem you are the man Yeaaaaaa Boyyyyyyy lol :)

[@steveivanoski8578]

No clamp,mmmm

[@tomjones1139]

this does not cut 4x4 post

[@SteveFisherTattoos]

You got to clamp it hard

[@Jandejongjong]

Your cutting the angle wrong.. 8:30 Put it down flat with 1 Side up 90 degree. And use your clamp And dont use the slider. Dont saw to wards the obj. But let the saw come from above.

[@agoronja86]

Take that camera and go to the woods, save your life and your precious time

[@tankerboysabot]

And now HD doesnt carry Evolution tools

[@ToolReviewZone]

Did they discontinue sales? They used to sell them

[@tankerboysabot]

@@ToolReviewZone yeah i just looked it up on HD website and it says they discontinued the evolution series.

[@joederue2392]

You havecto clamp steel down.

[@phantaxsniper3681]

There was so much unwanted movement the sliding mechanism theres no way you would get consistent cuts with this saw. Top that off with a shit arbor and you have a junk saw. It's cheap, and inexpensive. Dont expect any degree of accuracy with this. I hope you're a shill and didnt buy that saw!

[@brianpatrick8441]

That is so dangerous with that cheap clamp!! Your material cannot move for safe operation

[@spacegeneral8630]

You know, i know a miter saw can cut a bit of metal (don't know what type). So i was in woodworking in sophomore year, and i was using a miter saw for a simple bump cut(?) Or something like that. Anyway, i knew the basic saftey insstructions. Nothing i could see was an immediate problem (nothing i that i saw. Wink wink) so i started cutting. Then, 3 seconds into it, it started shrieking and i saw it making HUGE sparks. So i let go of it. Apparently NO ONE in my class noticed. (Or maybe they knew but didn't want to add insult to injury) and i looked UNDER the wood and saw a big metal ruler with a big chunk missing at the end. And a week later, my teacher wanted to tell the class something. He said, "hey guys. You aren't in trouble since this is the furst time, but please be careful around the equipment (shows damaged ruler) because things like this could happen in the future" or something like that. And i think he knew that i was the culprit but didn't say anything. He was a relatively chill dude so maybe he thought, "accidents happen". So anyway, you can cut metal rulers to your hearts content

[@bighitstepside]

You shouldn’t use the sliding feature when cutting smaller steel. Just come straight down and it shouldn’t jump like that.

[@randymarshall1267]

No Thanks

[@Holymolygod99]

I don't recommend you to cut steel with it, unsafe to you or the machine, use pro steel saw instead of it, dude.

[@jbcjerkybestcallibress1549]

This guy he don’t know nothing oh my what a s......,Ohhhhhhh

[@Salamibro]

looks like a crappy china saw to me

[@1607rosie]

The more teeth you have on the surface of the metal the better just like a hack saw. Plus speed should be a lot slower .

[@garnetsuss4881]

It's a universal saw that runs slower than a wood saw but faster than a metal saw. It's not a purpose built metal chop saw. It is made to cut wood, plastic, metal etc all with the one blade. I don know how that information possibly escaped you.

[@fuckyuashol]

Moving arbor? Obviously junk saw. Made to China specs. Your inner voice should guide you

[@derekbarrett6154]

I had a model 3 years older than this, was of POS. Maybe for a home owner or a hobbyist it would be ok, but if you are trying to do any real work I would look elsewhere. Summary...poorly made parts, weakly constructed and machined finishes were not flat.

[@shannongibson325]

Mine works too. I used the Woodprix plans and performed it without any problems.