Can You 3D Print Critical Engine Parts?

[@dieter5013]

If you ever have strength troubles, I would recommend increasing the fillet size on the edges. You'll be very surprised how much it increases the strength of a part and is able to reduce stress concentrations.

[@DingDongDrift]

@@dieter5013 yea i use bevels/fillets a lot

[@blaqlabspodcast5816]

Yup... fillet everything. Definitely helps..

[@802Garage]

This is the kind of stuff I am getting into as well! A thermostat housing was actually on my list of parts to try. I have already made oil caps which are functional in both my daily driver naturally aspirated engine bay, and in a high horsepower rotary swapped BRZ. The oil caps are just made from Inland PLA+! So I have no doubt the more advanced materials can hold up to way more punishment. I have also made a throttle body adapter from carbon fiber nylon which is holding up to a lot of boost in a hot bay. I think most people are vastly underestimating what 3D printing is capable of. I am also remounting a radiator in my current project car and will likely 3D print some parts for that set up as well. Awesome stuff! Going to keep watching the video, but couldn't help but comment near the start.

[@spicymsp1383]

I wanted to try a CF Nylon throttle body adapter to adapt a larger/more commonly available one to my intake manifold. Glad to know it's definitely possible to be functional.

[@802Garage]

@@spicymsp1383 Definitely possible. This was for a factory 13B style flange to a Bosch 82mm DBW throttle body. :)

[@zadeoooo]

Great video, I believe bambu recommends annealing parts afterwards for optimal strength. This could maybe help layer line sealing as well.

[@xillerated]

Yoooo! This videos was great to watch. Keep it up man, loving all the 3d information your giving. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge! 🤙🏾

[@tinystar3010]

iirc, I think Jay Leno once presented 3D printing pistons. It's definitely possible to print critical parts and it's fun seeing how far this technology is going

[@thib8541]

Sick car, sick project, really love to follow this build and your idea🧐👌 An unique one and that what’s insane 🙌 Hope you the best in your life, can’t wait to see your next video🫡😁

[@RicheyBLS]

Glad you're doing better good to see you back working on the SC and staying busy those next 2 months are gonna fly by. Also thanks for testing some of these more expensive filaments I'm curious to see how it handles multiple heat cycles long term in a hot engine bay

[@DingDongDrift]

That's why I'm testing! I wanna use it on a few pieces on my engine.

[@mikelmarion]

​@@DingDongDriftany chance of you trying to 3d print the entire intake manifold from the carbon filament. Would love to see how much weight cold be saved and some cool not thought of design. Also, 3d printed valve covers would be cool for weight savings and creativity. Fuck it 3d print some suspension parts haha

[@BeaverLakeMotorsports]

Plastics parts need metal bushings in the holes to prevent crushing & subsequent loosening of the part.

[@DingDongDrift]

@@BeaverLakeMotorsports not if they're 12mm of solid plastic, they'll be fine

[@DrewLSsix]

​@DingDongDrift depends on the plastic, some common filaments will creep under load and no amount of material will change that.

We're truly living in a magnificent time. To think, common household 3D printers might be able to make that one replacement part you need in a pinch or, in your case, have fun with your projects and actually have durable parts 💪 Only thing left to do now is the longevity test and if it can hold up to climate as well as heat cycles.

[@MannyMotoGarage]

Glad you're doing better from a health perspective! Can't wait to see those new prints for the rear mount fittings. Thanks for the knowledge!

[@Willyman420]

glad to hear that your doing better. keep up the dope content

[@LinkedTom]

Super cool vid. very exiting to see you achive this. cant wait for the rear mount rad

[@DingDongDrift]

@@LinkedTom it's gonna be sick i can't wait

[@DrewLSsix]

Im a big believer in designing with printing in mind where possible, rather than just duplicating the design of an existing part that was originally designed for another manufacturing process. This housing would have been molded obviously, and the shape reflects that. If you were designing this to be printed from the start you wouldn't have gone with a dome because those are notoriously difficult to print. With an understanding of your printers particular capabilities with overhangs, the body should have been designed as a faceted shape with overhangs not exceeding the machines capabilities. Being a structural part and a water container, you would want to be well within the machines capabilities, where most prints are done with aesthetics in mind, meaning the overhang angle is when theres visible defects. For a mechanical part you are concerned with function, which can be compromised even while the part looks nice. Imo, many people face issues simply because they are trying to duplicate injected or machined parts that have features which are difficult or impossible for printers to deal with.

[@rootednode]

I am wanting to print all of the charge pipes on my 22re turbo build. Max boost will be 20 psi, I have ran a small section of asa printed charge pipe on my mk2 Supra and never had an issue with it. I am thinking pa12. The only issue is trying to epoxy my blow off valve flange into the prints.

[@DingDongDrift]

@@rootednode just print the blow off valve flange as part of the charge pipe?

[@rootednode]

@@DingDongDrift I run turbo smart bov and am afraid of the printed flange not sealing and or breaking from the clamp. I have an aluminum flange that seems like would work well if I put a sleeve to epoxy it into.

[@spicymsp1383]

​@@rootednode A buddy of mine tested printing a small section of pipe with a BOV flange on it out of normal nylon (non CF, not sure if PA6 or PA12), held up fine on his GT-Four over several test drives.

[@ZUKME]

Super cool! Glad you left in the things not to do. Helps me a ton :)

[@weedletrainer34]

Consider the expansion rates of the different materials especially on that coolant bridge.The tension or compression from the heat cycles might stress the print layers

[@DingDongDrift]

@@weedletrainer34 that's another aspect of this material, it has very low expansion due to heat or moisture.

[@weedletrainer34]

@@DingDongDriftthe issue is dissimilar materials expanding at different rates. If it matches or is close to that of aluminum, then that’s good. This is part of the reason that coolant neck you redesigned has those compression sleeves in them.

[@anthonybieller8112]

Like everything you're doing and showing how you can design and print almost anything with Your creativity thinking outside the box. I think the same way but have No 3d printing or programming ability for my ideas. Your new design is Awesome. A hatch would be interesting to see with that Wing.I'd like to see the cage First (I'd also like to install one, only found one place that has a half cage) Think that'll set you up for future Interior work. A friend and I are going to design mine with wb fenders over my 90mm flares with cf and figure skirts out to match. I Looked all around for Air ducts for front and rear and seen some like you have on a Porsche i like but haven't found the front yet. I'm not real crazy with our options in the market with body kits. Only have like 3 options 🤔🤷‍♂️ but You Are the Man trying to Ignite New Concepts to Conception is just what We need to build More Enthusiasm in the community. Actually, I'd Also like a Wingless trunk to go with my theme as well. 🙌💯💪

[@adtjr124420]

great video very interesting results

[@kraftingkars]

Wow! You got skills man

[@gateaccess818]

god bless broskie, awesome test

[@cartermackenzie1135]

Do you think you could make an AN adapter? I wonder how the threads would print.

[@DingDongDrift]

@@cartermackenzie1135 you could, not worth it imo considering good fittings are like $5-$15. A fitting printed with this filament would also cost like $2-$6

[@cartermackenzie1135]

@DingDongDrift I'm thinking of 3D printing the part that adapts the block for a remote water pump, those usually cost north of 50$

[@PiroFyre]

Did you just slap it on the car as soon as it was done printing? Because I'm wondering if the layers would seal better once that part is annealed. Bambu recommends 120C to 140C for 6 to 12 hours in the oven. And for the most part, the heat deflection that's advertised is usually after annealing so I would for sure look into annealing these types of parts.

[@DingDongDrift]

bambu also says this filament might weaken if annealed

[@paynetreyvon1261]

This is awesome thanks for sharing

[@MrThePsychologist]

you can 3d print everything but the matter is the flow how good is on the surface of the materia you 3dprint with and if it can withstands the preassure

[@COMotorsports]

How long did this part last? Or did you swap it back out for OE part?

[@DingDongDrift]

@@COMotorsports it's still on the engine

[@COMotorsports]

@DingDongDrift ok, but I noticed at the end of the video you mentioned you were unable to drive. So has it just been sitting there or has it been put through regular use/heat cyles? Thanks for the reply btw. 👍

[@DingDongDrift]

@@COMotorsports it has not been driven much, but it was still driven and heat cycled many times for testing

[@COMotorsports]

@@DingDongDrift cool thanks for sharing. Nice work. 👍

[@andrestnt]

Yuck always hated plastic thermostat housings 😅. Almost all of them have had crack from prolonged heat/pressure cycles on my vehicles. 3d plastics have come a long way for sure. Maybe this filament is a game chager. Hopefully, it works out for you. It will be cool to do an intake manifold out of this material, something like a shortrunner or variable runner via interchangeable trumpets.

[@NWalker-zx6xu]

IDK if these needed scanned. Its fairly simple to just model.

[@markospina575]

What would it cost for you to make a a file of a duck tail spoiler for my z32 2+0,that I can print in sections

[@spicymsp1383]

What infill did you print these at, and what's the filament usage (how many grams) on the housings? $200/kg seems expensive, but if you can get, say, 10+ of these from a roll, that's really not that bad for custom car part stuff.

[@DingDongDrift]

@@spicymsp1383 infill doesn't matter

[@patrickpalmiter5634]

Would it be worth annealing the water neck before using it?

[@DingDongDrift]

No, not for this filament. The data sheet even says annealing will weaken the part.

[@d1specdrifter]

🎉nice going yo. I have all my lines with an fittings ,and braided lines. i dont believe in stock rubber hoses and worms clamps,anymore.👍🏼👍🏼🤜🏼🤛🏼

[@DingDongDrift]

@@d1specdrifter AN everything!

[@briannacaylor8627]

so awesome

[@mikefinelli6932]

Feel better brother

[@o_tdiggity]

I think random seam is doing most of the work - don't you need to overextrude as long as you can keep the wall thickness at >3mm

[@xSLIMGOD1x]

Have you tried polymaker cf nylon, id recemend giving it a try if not? Cause id back the strength of their nylon filaments 100%

[@DingDongDrift]

@@xSLIMGOD1x this is a much higher quality filament

[@xSLIMGOD1x]

@DingDongDrift ahh , I'm gunna have to give it a try once I can run higher heats , cause rn I'm using a ender 3 s1 since my old printer fried it's motherboard and power supply, but in regards to the parameters you made to .5 for nozzle , id recommend using a .56 parameter for a. .4 nozzle

[@DingDongDrift]

@@xSLIMGOD1x i did 0.7mm at the end

[@YourFriendlyHoodVampire]

Don't be afraid to try printing at the high end of the filaments temp rating. Ill print PLA at 245c for strength

[@DingDongDrift]

@@YourFriendlyHoodVampire i was at the maximum of the printer, which is 300c lol

[@YourFriendlyHoodVampire]

@@DingDongDrift 😂 nvm

[@NWalker-zx6xu]

You should have designed the part to use a metal sleeve where the bolts are. Alot of plastic stuff is deisigned this way.

[@ChristoferAhman]

Hi! Great video and nice job! Have you tried increasing the walls in the slicer? That seems to do the trick for me when it comes to water tight prints. Use at least 6 walls and top and bottom layers. PETG usually doesn’t go well with temperatures above 90 degrees C. Good luck with the project!

[@DingDongDrift]

@@ChristoferAhman you should finish watching the video 😂

[@ChristoferAhman]

@@DingDongDrift Hello, I did my friend, but could't find any information on your slicer settings, except about that you over extruded to get the part water tight, a neater option would be to just increase the wall count, but maybe you tried that, I apologize if I miss that. I work for a filament manufacturer and did a water tightness test a couple of years ago and found that the key to success was to add more walls in the slicer: kzbin.infoGVHIfrvM2_4?si=vvSYLKiU4CoJoGCl

[@DingDongDrift]

@@ChristoferAhman the print was solid, 10 perimeters

[@ChristoferAhman]

@@DingDongDrift Ok, thanks, then it might be the carbon fiber that is causing the issue. Filament manufacturers use various percentage and length of carbon fibers. Good luck with the project!

[@DingDongDrift]

@@ChristoferAhman i got it to work at the end of the video and I'll apply what i learned to the next project

[@tahustvedt]

Cool! I'd design it differently instead of just replicating the metal shape. You can make it a lot stronger by optimizing more for the plastic and layer weakness. It doens't need to look like the metal part

[@dubCanuck1]

Why the overextrusion? More squish, less gap?

[@DingDongDrift]

@@dubCanuck1 yes

[@Odd_Redneck]

3d intake manifold?

[@DingDongDrift]

@@Odd_Redneck you know it

[@802Garage]

Very possible. Channels like Making for Motorsport have been doing it for quite some time!

[@321Misfits]

where are you located bro I need some work done

[@DingDongDrift]

@@321Misfits i don't do work for others

[@sodoracle2930]

What material ur using and what 3d software?

[@martinskamla6789]

Maybe Watch the video LOL

[@WishesRL]

Not sure if you've had a P1S or P1P before you bought the X1, but if so, do you find that the X1 upgrade is worth it? I have the P1S but I don't feel like the upgrade is worth it to spend over a thousand on buying the X1. The P1S does what it needs to do and I find it does it well. 🤷

[@DingDongDrift]

@@WishesRL i just like the touch screen lol

[@tuberculelapatate221]

Have you thought of using fusion 360 for critical parts? Maya is great for aesthetic parts like body kits, but IMO Fusion 360 is better suited for parts that have precise dimensions or tolerances to respect. Great video as always!

[@DingDongDrift]

@@tuberculelapatate221 i have, but i tried it and hate it. Maybe plasticity will work better for me just gotta try it

[@tuberculelapatate221]

@@DingDongDrift I guess Fusion is harder to learn too. I learned CATIA and Solidworks in College so Fusion was easy to self-teach, but from a game designer's POV, I bet it's not very user-friendly.

[@802Garage]

​@@DingDongDriftPlasticity is looking awesome. Really combines the utility of CAD with the more intuitive and advanced features of 3D modeling software.

[@blaqlabspodcast5816]

I absolutely hate the crossover and the entire thermostat assembly it really limits what you can do with an intake manifold design.

[@StraightLineCycles]

What happens when you print at the slowest setting

[@Toxocara995]

Glad you're doing well boo bear.

[@taza99]

couple of points, if anyone else wants to try something similar 1. wear a respirator when sanding carbon filled materials, you don't want to have a carbon coating on your lungs. turbo cancer 2. use metal inserts/bushings for the bolt holes, otherwise the material will creep over time

[@nonfam4594]

The question is, what's the price of that part new and if a failure happen how much damage it can do. For that kind of part, I'm not sure it's worth the risk...

[@DingDongDrift]

the real question is did you watch the full video?

[@adventureskulldraws]

fantastic

[@limbeboy7]

Dude. You couldve saved hours modeling if you just hung it on a fishing wire and scanned it.... 90% less cleaning Edit: you could've fix the leak 2 ways depending on operating temp. Expoxy resin spray, or use Arnachie wall mode instead of classic in your slicer [Quality tab] I used Arnachie to print playet and flower pots and it never leaks. Now the high temp of engine might cause layer lines to flex abit...

[@DingDongDrift]

i never print scans or clean them up, i just model fresh models. Arachne does not fix leaks because I only use Arachne and every print in this video was printed with Arachne. Flower pots aren't pressurized to almost 20 PSI and 200F.

[@victor440_]

That's all great for your parts but how are you doing that's what I'm worried about. I pray that you are doing well 🙏

[@martinskamla6789]

For me the key to watertight prints was going VERY slow

[@OnlyLoserCucksStockAProfile]

Yeah you want the layers to properly fuse together. You can also iron the layers on an fdm printer but that takes significantly more time.

[@martinskamla6789]

@@OnlyLoserCucksStockAProfile ironing only smooths the very top layer or top layers at different heights and has zero effect on watertightness of the print

[@VESKEREE]

😮😮😮

[@hotondale]

Ahhhhh! Ding Dong!

[@AUXITOLED]

Another solid video, Sir. Just straight to the point with everything! We released a portable air pump. Can we invite you to do a review? We have emailed for an inquiry.

[@mattmisanthropy.]

Nek minnit, 3D printed high flow UZ heads! Imagine 😂

[@DingDongDrift]

Don't get me thinking about something like that

[@tommcdonald3772]

Love it, nice job Mark Wahlberg

[@victor440_]

Sorry I asked the question before I watch the end of the video

[@DingDongDrift]

@@victor440_ no worries lol

[@Hakke_]

Ima need to pay you to 3D print me a bumper lol

[@SolidCaramel2]

no explanation needed just watch him cook bro. lol

[@garagetrader33]

your printer page is blocked by all browsers

[@DingDongDrift]

@@garagetrader33 works for me

[@sheariley1910]

Bruh. Why not just use Fusion 360 and create the model parametrically? That way you can go back and systematically / pragmatically edit various aspects of the model and you know for sure that the dimensions are accurate.

[@DingDongDrift]

@@sheariley1910 cz idc

[@MiniTruckMommy]

Amazing dude instant follow once ur page popped up on insta

[@ikilljay]

wait how did u do this? jk lmao love these videos. as someone who is getting into 3d modeling i enjoy them a lot. also for anyone looking to get into 3d modeling blender is a great option. has some weird quirks but it’s free and lowkey amazing for having no where near the same funding as other softwares. blenderguru’s donut tutorial is a great start for anyone trying to get the basics down

[@DingDongDrift]

@@ikilljay blender is indeed incredible considering it's free