Can You Develop Super 8 & 16mm AT HOME?? | Analog Resurgence WEEK

Hey it's Analog Resurgence Week! I just made that up...BUT I'm putting up a little something everyday this week. Today I'm answering some questions that I get pretty often about home developing of motion picture film. Can you do Super 8 and 16mm at Home?
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[@TofuHasenpfeffer]

I found the hardest part of the bucket method is untangling it enough to dry it. And not dropping it on the dirty floor in the process.

[@practicalimagination0909]

I find Remjet easy to remove. Recommended solution is diluted Borax in your pre-wash and that takes it right off before developing. Your tank needs to be washed REALLY well and as well as your film. Remjet reminds me of the black liquid the engineers used in the movie Prometheus which for some reason everyone hates that movie. I liked it.

[@christopher1931]

Travis Tobin do you get remjet stains on the lomo spirals after using the borax solution?

[@squirrel8296]

The new ektachrome and tri-x reversal super 8 don't have any remjet which is really nice

[@ashleyw.1119]

That’s a great movie!

[@Otokichi786]

In the 1970's a college friend and I got interested in movies. He eventually went on to a Bolex H8 camera converted by Jaakko Kurhi to Double Super 8. A company called "Esoess" ("Eso-Ess"?)was a "short end" 16mm movie film vendor for the hobbyist and even sold a "process your movie film at home kit."

[@Hunter-ck1zy]

I actually have some experience in modeling with 3d printing in mind, I might take a shot at designing some development tanks that you can print at home, Ill probably start with 35/120 film tanks first though as a proof of concept. If your interested ill let you know if i make anything usable.

[@arieldjarn8555]

I am very interested in 3d printing or CNC routing a new spiral for 8mm and 16 mm - especially a 100 footer as those are really rare on eBay and sell for anything between 600-1000 dollars!

[@therestorationofdrwho1865]

A cheaper useable super 8 tank would be awesome.

[@tylerhuttosmith]

I’d also be interested!

[@baatzproductions197]

Same here for 8mm!

[@chronicconja420]

please let me know if this has come to fruition. I really wish i had the patience and technological awareness to do 3d printing. In my past few years of intensively jumping into film photography and darkroom stuff at home I have come to far too many moments of wishing I could 3d print things myself- especially things they don't make anymore

[@SweetLouPhotography]

today I learned film is like mad max

[@ulicadluga]

Fantastic. I love your enthusiasm. It's amateurs trying things that really moves the world forward. I remember, in the late 70s, I borrowed a friends Super 8 camera to film some "private" stuff. I decided to develop Super 8 Kodachrome film with my B&W negative kit. I used buckets in my dark room, fitted with a color safe lamp (it was really, really dark though). Strangely, I did get a watchable result (B&W only and really faded). All these experiments were really fun. I also discovered that I could create half-tone silk screens by just using Letraset "dot screens" on "photosensitive screen paint". I was just a teenager, but the memories of the dark, the light and the chemicals remains ingrained as "exciting and fun".

[@jfbaquero]

Dear Noah, I am an avid follower of your channel. It happens that I have a degree in industrial design and love analog film. I own a LOMO tank, but I consider it very expensive, most of them are only available in Russia and Ukraine and are becoming scarce, plus and shipping form Eastern Europe is pretty steep. The price of LOMO tank on Ebay can go between 200 and 300 USD depending on its condition, shipping will easily add 50 USD. I am in Colombia, here there are no labs (and is most of South America) that can process super 8 or 16mm film, just a couple of persons will develop DIY. Because of all the issues mentioned, I have been developing a super 8 developing tank that can be 3D printed, I hope at lower price than the LOMO tank. The LOMO design is pretty good in terms of internal space which means it does not demand the use of excessive chemistry, but the design is old and uses and obsolete bakelite material, so the walls are thick and overall the tank is heavy and prone to fracture. Loading of the LOMO tank is not easy, but it can be mastered with practice. I am struggling to get a design that can be easy loaded a eventually be used for 16mm film development without having to cut the film the compromise here is that it will probably consume more chemistry than the LOMO. The design is in an early stage and still I have a lot of prototyping to do. I don't own a 3D printer and because of the COVID 19 situation for now we are locked and on standby. I will try to keep perfecting the design on CAD 3D software.

[@AnalogResurgence]

That's exciting! There definitely needs to be some better alternatives for tanks out there.

[@CertainExposures]

Any progress? I've been developing 36 frame rolls of motion picture film at home to prepare for trying a full 100ft.

[@gracearrance3461]

Just yesterday I was looking for someone showing how they process super 8! Awesome video, just bought a super 8 camera yesterday:)

[@JustLoveFilm]

We can help you scan it at Frame Discreet www.framediscreet.com ☺

[@Toad_Hugger]

Been itching to get into developing my own black and white negatives at home. Would give me more freedom in pushing the film or making pinhole cameras. Thanks for the videos Noah!

[@JonathanHancock]

I like to shoot stop motion for the negatives and then have the lab make a work print for projection as well a digital scan. If you process at home then you can edit the negatives instead of having to ship twice.

[@tselinsky6452]

By far the best method of getting professional results is to have a rack that the film is looped around: the film won't jam like with a spiral reel and the chemistry won't get areated like with a rewind tank. The key in designing these racks and tanks is that you have to use construction materials that won't interfere with the chemistry and cause cross-contamination. Type 316 stainless steel (what many processing tanks for still film are made of) is supposed to be good, I've also read in some Kodak processing tanks about titanium and Hastelloy C. Most plastics are supposed to work well, too. I think the best way to address this is via 3D printing.

[@herbmontes]

I had experience processing and printing photography negative film (35mm). So when I began doing 2d hand drawn animation I would film my drawn frames on a title stand with a Bolex 16mm camera. My 35mm processing tank could also process short strips of 16mm film (like for the Minox camera). So I would load about 6 feet or so of black and white reversal (Plus-X) in my Bolex to shoot pencil tests. I would then process this short strip in my photo tank as a negative. Once processed I would splice the film into a loop to load in my projector and view the animation. For finished animation I would shoot a whole roll and send it to a lab.

[@trainroomgary]

Hi - My viewpoint - I develop B&W film at home 35 mm & 2 1/4 along with the prints. I use to do 16 mm when I was in High School, The football teams game footage. Digital is now so much faster and better for video work. You have a very helpful channel for us old time film guys and film negatives and printing is still important for making quality B&W prints • Cheers from The Detroit & Mackinac Railway 🚂

[@superiordirk]

Hi Noah. I have been on an art film hiatus for a few years now, and watching your videos is getting me re-inspired. I use a morse tank and find it great for black and white negative. But I found it impossible to do black and white reversal in it because you can't "bleach" the film fast enough using the cranks. You would have to use a lomo tank or buckets. The screen cap you have of the super 8 black and white reversal process? Ya, that's my hand with the pink kitchen glove! Hahahaha Memories.

[@AnalogResurgence]

Oh wow that's funny! I also don't have experience doing it completely by hand, I've been lucky enough to work with some larger processing machines that do it. I was just trying to find processing to illustrate some points!

[@samdavisson580]

Great video! You're definitely right about it being a lot of work and figuring stuff out. I went through around 7 rolls before I got "good" results, though most of it was just in the chemicals (I do everything, including b&w bleach with off the shelf stuff, like with caffenol). Still always trying to get it better though, morse tanks are a pain! Over winter break I got bored and taught myself a little CAD, so that I could design a new spiral tank. I have what are probably workable files that could be 3d printed, but you'd need a big printer (spiral holds 100' of 16mm or double 8, and is 35cm in diameter) If anybody has a printer or wants the files, feel free to let me know!

[@JustLoveFilm]

Sounds cool! Would be interested In the files, maybe I could get a prototype made. Hit me up through instagram @frame_discreet or @justin_lovell

[@hammeys1]

Mostly shoot and process double 8 at home (16mm) use a lomo tank and its nice and easy to do.

[@JustLoveFilm]

If you ever need help help scanning, let me know. We'll take care of ya! Frame Discreet www.framediscreet.com

[@comeradecoyote]

The later Morse tanks, specifically the arkay Morse g-3 with plastic reels and no window, are capable of being used for super 8 films. However, to get consistent results, you will need to rewind once per minute for 100’, twice a minute for 50’, and 4 times a minute for 25’. The real difficulty is finding a film drying rack, which needs to be able to spin dry so you don’t get water spots.

[@imageminister]

comeradecoyote , I have a drying solution I can share with you if you need it?

[@JustLoveFilm]

@@imageminister can you share with me? I'm going to try my first roll of 16mm tomorrow. Find me on Instagram @justin_lovell or @frame_discreet

[@petepictures]

I hate remjet on the film, and never want to work with it again. You have to find a way to wipe it from the film, and it stains my Lomo spirals, which I want to keep clear for the second exposure . The smallest 10m Lomo tanks are the cheapest, and good for the double 8 or double S8mm films of up to 10metres. Foma makes a very good film for those the R100 film.

[@oidualclaudi0]

Can we have a video about developing film using instant coffee?

[@christopher1931]

the 35mm tanks seem good for developing test strips of motion picture film to figure out the best developing times

[@seencere7284]

sure we can. I did it back in late 80s when I was a kid. and it was bulky soviet slide processing that included 'lighting step' - lightening 5 or 10 minutes with 500w halogen lamp over opened tank (can't remember exactly the time) whole processing of 1 roll of super-8 film took ~ 2 hrs 40 min (processing of 2 rolls at once required 2 liters of chemistry which was economically unviable for us) I did 5 rolls in a one day once - it took me 12+ hrs )))

[@Film2Digital]

Thanks for sharing! Interesting!

[@jonnoMoto]

It seems a modernised version of the Morse seems to be the simplest construction. Doesn't require a specialised spool and the laborious winding could be automated.

[@gdavisloop]

The Morse tank worked in a strange way. Unlike all other developing tanks (including the Lomo), it did not try to separate the layers of film. Instead, you constantly wound the film back and forth (by hand!) between the two reels, exposing the film to the chemicals mainly when it was between the reels. I find it hard to believe that this worked, but as their ad says, the U.S. Military says it did! There was another "home method" called the separator strip. This was thin plastic 16mm wide, with bumps on both edges. You wound the film and strip together onto a standard projection reel, and then you could dunk that in a tray of chemicals. I tried this method and it didn't work very well... not all the film managed to get the chemical applied correctly. There was also a rotary drying rank that was designed to shrink slightly as the film shrunk while drying! (You'd need one of those with the Morse tank as well - I can't image you could dry 100' of film or even a 33' D8 roll, by hanging it with a clothespin!) --Gary

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

Got me a late 50s Bolex on the way.

[@lubowrc]

I'm interested in what quantity of developer is needed. For example one of the ecn2 kits on the market is for ~15 rolls of 35mm, but that's less then 100ft 16 mm film for example.

[@1989Goodspeed]

Briliant video!

[@shemgatdula1038]

is the chemicals to develop them same as the chemicals used for c41 film photos?

[@michatroschka]

whats the deal with those rolls inside a tank, do they make sure that the film gets zero contact on the film layer? if so, how?

[@OskarFilms]

I'm interested in learning how some people have successfully home-developed Kodak Tri-X Super 8 as a negative.

[@moreliaottaviano6152]

Which labs are best or which labs do you recommend?

[@Swimmadd]

How do you dry your super 8 film after developing it?

[@aengusmacnaughton1375]

Toronto Rocks! Noah! Kasey (Camera Conspiracies)! Gerald Undone!

[@MORCOPOLO0817]

"No rules when you are shooting film". Agreed! especially if you are an experimental filmmaker. You are not bound by the conventions and norms of the mainstream Hollywood system. This is especially true with respect to frame rate. In experimental film you are usually telling a story about rogue/controversial/ unconventional subjects. And even more so when there are no people or most common animated carbon based life forms in your movie you are free to go with lower frames rates like 16 or 18 fps for the sake of flim economy. Also, most people will not know the difference under such circumstances.

[@ClassicRockLivesOn]

You can definitely develop it but how do you digitize it?

[@IvanovMarius]

Can I use Tetenal E6 for Ektachrome 100 ?

[@FuquarProductions]

I have several frozen 400' exposed reels of tri-x reversal film. That is what I'm trying to develop...

[@barrysteinlage6888]

After watching your videos on 16mm and 8mm I'm seriously thinking of getting my Bolex out and start filming again. Haven't shot much since the 80's. I don't know where my S8mm equipment is after we moved. I guess hunting for lost treasure is its owm reward. At least my Bolex is still working!

[@JustLoveFilm]

Go for it! I just pulled out my bolex and shot my baby. He just turned 7 months. Going to shoot a little every week and make some photo prints from the 16mm. Scanning at my studio WWW.FRAMEDISCREET.COM 😎

[@aengusmacnaughton1375]

Haven't finished the video yet -- but a 16mm reel/tank would work for "double 8" (reg 8mm), right? Hmmm -- but then you have to perfectly split it....

[@marlmachine]

It would work, you can also 3D print your own double 8mm film splitters that hold a razor in it. It isn't that hard but it takes time to measure out what you will need for it.

[@MichaelZieschang]

Do 110 still filmslides fit into those tanks ? I have exposed two cartridges and would consider developing at home

[@AnalogResurgence]

These tanks would be really expensive just for 110 rolls, I would recommend going the DIY route for a Paterson reel or even buying a different kind of tank! www.lomography.com/magazine/241548-how-to-make-a-fully-functional-110-film-developing-reel www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/895914-REG/Yankee_rfc_15t_Clipper_II_Roll_Film.html

[@sciguyisanerd]

I’ve developed super 8 film in a Paterson tank before but I don’t recommend it. What I use now is I use a 3D printed tank that’s similar to the lomo tanks

[@ulicadluga]

Was the good 8mm film usually Kodachrome? Kodachrome 64 slide film. It's the best thing ever.

[@jacobkelly9324]

A lot of great info here! What lab do you take your film to?

[@AnalogResurgence]

niagaracustomlab.baremetal.com/ 4everrrr!

[@JustLoveFilm]

And have them send it down the street to us for a higher quality scan! Frame Discreet www.framediscreet.com instagram @frame_discreet

[@smly1685]

Remjet comes off no problem with this pre bath 1000ml water 50-60g borax 5 minutes at 40 degrees C Should come out vibrant pink or purple I use this with Tri X 16mm

[@imageminister]

Cassette Man definitely do an H2O pre-soak before the remjet bath.

[@sophustranquillitastv4468]

Where I can send either 8mm or 16mm for develop and digitize that can take order internationally? I want to try these stuffs but there isn't a single lab in Thailand that can process motion film properly. (There are only a very high end lab that process film for local film industry which is only in 35mm format). Or else, must I develop them at home with those expensive and really old tank?

[@AnalogResurgence]

Many labs allow you to mail your film to them which is a good option if there’s nothing close to you. Here is a list of labs that might help you out! www.kodak.com/en/motion/page/labs

[@AnalogResurgence]

Also maybe this will help as well: docs.google.com/document/d/14yUn05g_DcOkAe2NVw1FdK1-vOzePyqvQhRYEOuUSvA/edit?fbclid=IwAR3lsbbkhYK7t1jYoUqKhPs0CikXnTdR9W6s7IAfvklRMDl9M42PH3CBZ6c

[@SUBORNOVISION]

Thanks for the video. I appreciate your hard work. I am from Toronto. I am searching e-bay for LOMO tank. I found, most of the LOMO tanks that can only take max.10 meter film. but the regular kodak cartridges film length is 15m ( 50') . is there any LOMO tank in bigger capacity? pls. let me know.

[@AnalogResurgence]

The Lomo UPB-1A model will hold a total of 100ft with the reel being able to take two 50ft loads of film.

[@SUBORNOVISION]

@@AnalogResurgence Thanks for your advice. I will look for that model.

[@squirrel8296]

You can develop super 8 in a regular patterson tank, you just have to ball the film up and stick the pole through that ball... I've done it multiple times

[@ImJustWantToComment]

Can you make a video about it :D, interested to see how it's done

[@derp195]

​@@ImJustWantToComment It's exactly how it sounds, and the results (at least in my experience) are pretty awful.

[@srenhaandbk7904]

Well, with something like a standard paterson tank (by standard i mean 2x 35mm or 1x 120mm), couldn't you just put it down bulk-style? Like the bucket method, not winding it onto the wheels (because obviously it won't fit) and develop it that way?

[@AnalogResurgence]

That's a pretty small space for 50ft of film, but you could do it I guess. Usually a nice big bucket will at least result in more chemical contact across the film to get something.

[@samdavisson580]

There's a channel on here called Zero Budget Film School, its a guy based in the UK that does mostly super 8. He now has a lomo tank but his earlier videos when he started home developing were done with I think a 6 reel paterson tank. It can be done, and you can get good results, you just have to agitate REALLY well

[@entity9742]

Ok so can you use a sort of red room to develope the film or does it just need to be pitch black?

[@AnalogResurgence]

A red light can usually only be used when printing in a black and white darkroom because black and white paper has specific light sensitivity! If you’re handling normal black and white film (there certain exceptions), or color film then complete darkness is required as it is sensitive to the red light.

[@entity9742]

@@AnalogResurgence ok thank you

[@daniellefavre-felix5950]

What lab do you use or recommend for super 8mm movie film?

[@daniellefavre-felix5950]

Nevermind, got my answer in another post

[@RedbullandTwizzlers]

thanks you rule

[@rpeters330]

I was about to email you to make a video on this topic :)

[@AnalogResurgence]

Haha beat you to it! I'd of course love to dive deeper into this later on, but taking the leap and picking up these tanks and making some of the DIY ones just hasn't been a possibility yet! I really wanted to kind of break it down in the meantime though

[@srenhaandbk7904]

So, i know you can cross-develop, and do ektachrome as a negative, and use monochrome chemicals on colour, but can you develop, say 50D with black and white reversal process and have it come out as a positive? I just briefly heard someone mention something alike some time ago, but my logical mind says that it won't work, the same way that you can't develop tri-x in colour negative process, and expect full colour. Is it possible to develop colour negative as monochrome reversal, and get positives?

[@AnalogResurgence]

It’s maybe possible but I can’t find much information for anyone who’s tried it. You can develop color film as a black and white negative, but of course be mindful of remjet on the cinema stocks. Reversal for black and white then involves bleaching, re-exposing and re-developing so it would be a lot of trial and error, but not necessarily great results because of the differences with the vision3 stock.

[@srenhaandbk7904]

@@AnalogResurgence I see, thank you.

[@jeffjarboe3634]

I have had EIR developed with both E6 and C41, And have done it myself with C41 at the lower 8?F temperature

[@Cyberplayer5]

I have a few questions. I just bought a Silver Star 16mm Film Cine Movie Camera. Can I get B&W or Color film magazines for this camera? Also could I load my own magazine? Thanks.

[@AnalogResurgence]

As far as I know, no one is currently putting film into the old 16mm magazines. You can look at reloading one yourself from videos like this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmKWkodoo96Jp5o You may also need double perforated 16mm film which can be bought new from the film photography project: filmphotographyproject.com/

[@Cyberplayer5]

@@AnalogResurgence Thanks, good information. Video on loading the film is not as hard I imagined it would be.

[@danieldonathan3361]

Does anyone know the most affordable way to scan super8, 8mm,or16mm to digital at home for preservation purposes?

[@JustLoveFilm]

You can send it to us for the scan, happy to help advise! Frame Discreet www.framediscreet.com instagram @frame_discreet

[@picturemethis]

Where is a lab that will develop double 8 film?

[@rahulneupane9494]

Hey are you sure your name is Noah and not Jay Baruchel?

[@anas4754]

Can someone please 3d print lomo developing tank? I really want to make super 8 films but I don't have 200 dollars for developing tank

[@tangyorange6509]

I want to get into 16mm soooo bad, but I think I’m going to stick with super 8. What do you think are the pros and cons of shooting regular 8mm instead of super 8?

[@srenhaandbk7904]

Well, super 8 gets you the more amateur feel, but at this point it's kinda lost its charm since it was very much a cheaper alternative. Because of lack of interest, in the long run it's probably "simpler" to do 16mm. You can get very experimental with 16mm, they come in bigger spools, you have more variety, both camera- and filmstonk-wise, and the quality is usually better.

[@AnalogResurgence]

Well regular 8 does give you a smaller frame size slightly in comparison to Super 8, but there are some amazing 8mm cameras out there like Bolex H8's for example, that would give you amazing looking results. 8mm is under-appreciated and this year I vow to get into it...hopefully. See a lot of 8mm cameras out there have some very solid lenses on them, or at least the ability to buy lenses and change them around on the camera. A lot of Super 8 cameras were made on the cheap and there are some really crappy, low end cameras out there for Super 8. 8mm does give you lest options than Super 8 as well at the moment. Super 8 is available straight from Kodak so it's more likely to be carried by a variety of places. 8mm black and white can be purchased from Fomapan (www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/927375-REG/foma_411801_fomapan_r100_2x_standard.html). For Color film stock in regular 8mm there's really only one choice right now and that's from filmphotographystore.com/

[@srenhaandbk7904]

@@AnalogResurgence No doubt, but in terms of options and variety i meant. I love 8mm, don't get me wrong (:

[@dalehammond1749]

I rarely have trouble developing 35, 120, etc., film. Only once out of about 12 tries did I get images developing 8mm or 16mm movie film. The one successful time I used Caffenol but I had a considerable amount of damaged film. Today I avoid movie film.

[@therestorationofdrwho1865]

I’m still staying away from E-6 because I haven’t got a temperature regulator and stuff is expensive.

[@therestorationofdrwho1865]

@N H I’d absolutely love to do E-6, the fact it’s more expensive here in Australia is just discouraging though.

[@therestorationofdrwho1865]

@N H There may be a tablet form one day. Currently they have B&W chems in tablet form. I’ve no idea if it would be cheaper at all. There’s no way I’m making the chems myself, finding raw materials is an absolute nightmare especially if ur in Australia. They just don’t make any of this easy do they…

[@fenixlolnope361]

Why couldn’t I get 110 film reels for a Paterson tank?

[@AnalogResurgence]

You could for short lengths of 16mm. Those reels will hold something like 5/6ft of film, whereas a regular amount for 16mm motion picture is 100ft or 400ft.

[@fenixlolnope361]

@@AnalogResurgence the question is would I feel more confident doing that and just getting extra reels or would it be smarter to just find a big tub and somehow find a big enough reel to fit in it o.o or maybe take two or three pieces of pvc pipe and wrap film around that somehow? Idk I’m going to experiment

[@mkabel3654]

Morse motion picture film developing tank, easy to do.

[@AnalogResurgence]

😘

[@samdavisson580]

Any tips on chemistry or timing? I get funky results that are kinda faded, with halos around bright or overexposed things

[@JamieMPhoto]

I would try to develop 16mm at home, but the telecine/scanning is just not viable. Speaking of something someone could homebrew with some 3D printing and Raspberry Pi or something ...

[@JamieMPhoto]

That said, remjet has been a nonissue for home developing ECN-2 stills. :)

[@samdavisson580]

I've actually been working on this while the whole country is basically shut down, I basically took an old projector and tore out the bulb and motor, but left the rest of the stuff that controls frame advance and film takeup. I've got an old drill motor wired to a dimmer switch that runs the thing, and a peg I glued on one of the shutter blades trips a switch every revolution to work a dslr's cable release. Then I just set the projector and motor on a table next to a lamp, set the camera on a tripod, and scoot it in reallllly close to the lens. Then I can take all the jpgs into adobe premiere and make a video. It takes a lot of thinking and experimenting, but like Noah said, if you put your mind to it, you can do it!

[@Cyberplayer5]

@@samdavisson580 From what you describe you basically have half of an optical film printer.

[@Col_Eddington]

If you like to print at home then more reason to just send it in.

[@alanbrookes8716]

Why do you never mention Regular 8? It uses double-spocketed 16mm film, but you need to split it down the middle after developing. You don't mention in your video how you remove Super-8 film from the cassette. It's not easy.

[@iDigress77times]

How do labs develop?

[@AnalogResurgence]

Labs have large film processing machines that automate the process themselves. They use large chemical tanks that the film is run through.

[@matteotamburrini1555]

😍

[@imdiyu]

There are no labs in India. What to do?

[@diabloakland]

Can i process expired Kodachrome sound?

[@GOLD-Dana]

😊

[@smly1685]

Remjet is used on Tri X But not double X

[@seanwilliams4173]

With all due respect, I'm fairly certain Tri-X doesn't have a remjet layer. The vivid pink-purple colours you describe in your other post are probably just the anti-halation and dye-sensitizer layers coming out from pre-soaking it. When I've had to remove remjet from other film stocks, it comes out like a black slurry. I can't speak for Double-X though, I've never used that.

[@AnalogResurgence]

Remjet isn’t used on Tri-X films, that specific backing layer is only on Vision3. When I was working in a cinema lab the machines for color negative were outfitted differently with sprayers. The reversal machine when we ran Tri-X didn’t have that kind of setup. The tech sheets from Kodak specify that as well. www.kodak.com/uploadedFiles/Motion/Products/Camera_Films/7266/Resources/7266_ti2617.pdf Vs the vision3 sheet which notes Rem-jet backing www.super8.nl/file/7203.pdf More information can be found here as well! www.photrio.com/forum/threads/processing-kodak-tri-x-super-8-b-w-reversal-film-as-negative-in-d-76.77289/

[@smly1685]

Hmm ok that may be

[@JonathanHancock]

Does anybody have more information about double X ? Is exposure index the same as ISO 200. I need a refresher in metering so that I can process box speed with Hc110 developer. Five and seven minutes were too dense. I’m gonna try three minutes next

[@tristenmoles7933]

Bro looks like a young Edgar wright.

[@alregtx4414]

Jobo makes Super 8 and 16mm tanks

[@alregtx4414]

www.jobo.com/en/analogue/3018-expert-super-8-

[@alregtx4414]

www.jobo.com/en/analogue/3016-expert-16mm-

[@AnalogResurgence]

Yup! Incredibly expensive ones!

[@alregtx4414]

Analog Resurgence but new

[@AnalogResurgence]

Good to know!

[@MrRochaAndrew]

EXPERIMENT AND LIKE GO HARD AND LIKE SHOOT FILM AND DO CRAZY STUFF ALWAYS

[@Frisenette]

If you are doing reversal to project. Make a lab do it. E6 and and B&W reversal is touchy and hard. If you need scanning. Make a lab do it. You can build you own scanner, but it’s hard. Very hard to do well. You can grab it off a projection canvas, but the quality is terrible. If you just want to develop negative film, you can do it yourself. But then what?

[@JonathanHancock]

Helge Frisenette You can always project with the 16 mm projector

[@JonathanHancock]

Helge Frisenette work-print flip can be made and also contact prints can be composted over time. Build expanded cinema with the more projector s you can find.

[@IvanovMarius]

there is no lab who develop 8 and 16mm..

[@mostlyfinnishlifeeventsand5112]

There are some - Finland, Netherlands, Hungary etc. I myself use them for my Foma DS8 rolls. Want some URLs?

[@IvanovMarius]

@@mostlyfinnishlifeeventsand5112 I actually what to process myself a Ektachrome 100 but I'm not sure if I can use Tetenal E6

[@rebecavenazzi6442]

.