Can You/Should You Spray Directly Over Evercoat Featherfill G2 Polyester Primer?!? 👈

[@russ108]

Thanks Tony, these slide presentations seem like the best way to address some issues..when you don't have a garage right now). I was just considering using Feather Fill (glad I didn't, I don't like to sand that much) I finally bought some 2K, DTM primer from Tamco . Haven't spayed any yet, but reviews are good. As a first timer trying to paint my own projects I want to do it right, and I am so glad I became a LABAP VIP, the videos and instruction have given the confidence to attack all of my projects ( 4 personal projects at present).

[@HowToPaintYourCar]

Awesome Russ. The DTM may be all you really need! Keep us posted! Can’t wait to see what you create 👍🏻😎🤙🏼

[@JosephDR]

Thanks for the pros and cons of using Feather Fill, Tony. I was wondering about this stuff and glad you posted these tips!

[@HowToPaintYourCar]

No prob my man! Glad you liked it!

[@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt]

Thanks a lot for creating and sharing with the rest of us. Very informatively explained while keeping the details relevant to the topic. Liked and subscribed. Thanks again

[@HowToPaintYourCar]

Thanks too buddy!! Become a DIY Auto body Pro! Get a FREE A-Z Manual Check out: www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/

[@Brooklyn-bn5go]

Tony, I used Featherfill original many years ago with no problems. I'm currently repainting my '83 Cutlass Cruiser. the car had a second base/clear repaint in the mid-'90s that failed I had the roof wet blasted, and stripped the hood because its aluminum. After bodywork on the left side ( I'm doing one side at a time because of room constraints ) I sanded off the repaint down to the factory primer but left some small amount of original color. I sprayed Nason select prime 2K and blocked it two or three times as needed, the roof had problems so after the 2K prime I called both Nason and Evercoat to ask about going over it with the G2, both said as long as it had cured well. I'm in Florida and it had been on at least 8 to 9 days, I sprayed the featherfill on as directed. It burned through the primer and lifted the factory paint! I never had that problem with the original I would use it when repairing Corvettes to help hide the repairs or on complete resprays. I have completely stripped the right side and working that now. I used the featherfill because the car had a few bad areas and will be a dark color. I just wanted to relay my experience and maybe stop someone from making the same mistake. I had a lot of work to do the correct the problem, please be careful with this stuff!

[@HowToPaintYourCar]

Thank you for the info! :) Yes, it always different for each user's unique situation. I am not a HUGE fan of it. I like to get my bodywork done and sanded with at least 150-180, then use a good basic 2k filler primer-sealer. 👍

[@pedromiguelareias]

Yes. Lifting old paint is the polyester primer middle name. I use polyester primer a lot (UPol REFACE) and for old paint, even very small amounts, both polyester and acrylic or acrylic/urethane are not safe. Only epoxy primers can seal old paint and must be properly cured. My advice is: 1) remove most of the old paint. 2) Infrared for 1 hour the remaining old paint to evaporate old solvents. 3) Seal it with a good epoxy primer (SPI, Sikkens, Standox, etc). 4) Wait at least 3 days to cover the epoxy. I would even suggest that after 3 days of application, infrared the epoxy as much as you can. Only then continue your paint job. BTW, Paradice Garage is one of the best.

[@Brooklyn-bn5go]

@@pedromiguelareias Thanks for the reply, however, this is an older comment. I took everything down to bare metal and started over, then did the same on the other side. The car has been painted for over a year now with no problems so far. But I do regret not using epoxy primer.

[@Supanova70]

I used Eastwood line epoxy you have 5 days to recoat with Contour poly sands really easy too. On my second session now.

[@mz35z]

Great video as always! I've had this question for a while now as I've been blocking down my featherfill. Thanks for answering it so thoroughly! I'm going to settle with epoxy primer (reduced to sealer) over the featherfill. I actually really liked the featherfill. Hard enough to not dig all the way through easily, but soft enough to block down with a little effort.

[@HowToPaintYourCar]

Awesome my man, keep cranking!

[@steveavis4642]

Thanks for the video Tony. The tech sheet on my epoxy primer "High teck" said a 48 to 72 hour window to apply polyester primer without sanding first. Does this sound right? Seemed to work fine, just wondering.

[@219FlawlesS]

I did a door of mine with light low spots from sandblasting. Was epoxied first. I blocked most of the featherfill off. What's left is to get the car straight and thin throughout the rest of the door. Very thin. Now its sealed in 2k. Ready to go. We are in a heated debate that its going to crack because its going on a lowrider. I dont think it will. Its very thin. Not caked on. Thoughts?

[@snarffforever5165]

Thank for the great information

[@JR-iy7pb]

Great video, thanks Tony. If you're spraying this over epoxy do you need to prep the epoxy in some way (sand?) after it's cured to give the Featherfill something to bite into?

[@tonydiesel3444]

Reducer in the primer will make the raddel can primer give fry ups.

[@rongamble9884]

A sealer of some type preferably an epoxy sealer should be used before any paint lays down

[@GianniPotenza]

You never spray directly on any 2k Poly filler or any bondo filler! And never use water sanding because these fillers will suck water. That is why these need to be sealed.

[@garylivingston9052]

Wrong, Polyester primer can be wet sanded. I have been doing this for 30+ years without a problem, just wipe it down good and dry and let it air overnight and never a problem. Problems are because people like to rush the products. Take your time do a nice job and try to do it right the first time. Materials are expensive. This product is now around $200 a gallon.