Canon 10-20 f4L RF REVIEW: WATCH BEFORE YOU BUY! (vs Canon 11-24)

[@bmcla34]

I use the control ring to change the AF area. It's pretty nice for what i do with landscapes, which can turn into wildlife pretty quickly, so i like being able to change the AF area quickly with the control ring. If you accidentally change it the affect is pretty minimal, well at least for me.

[@kylegoodman5196]

Glad to know I'm not the only person who does this!

[@bmcla34]

@@kylegoodman5196 Agreed! It made a lot sense to me when i originally set it, and it's come in handy quite a few times since i switched to the RF lineup.

[@sebastianreiprich3747]

Same here 🤚

[@davidphillips9190]

I do that as well. Perfect for wildlife and grandkids' birthday parties, but I repeat myself.

[@sethholston6128]

Whoa whoa whoa I’m definitely trying this

[@therealphoenixrl]

Thanks Jared as always! Through out the years you have guided me on photography, I just wanna express my thank you, god bless and keep making wonderful content!

[@dude463waze6]

As a real estate photographer I'm just going to point out that it's the real estate agents that hire us that keep saying they want it to look wider than it is. I'd use the 20mm end of this lens plenty but would probably use the middle of the zoom more than anything. Small bathrooms would get the wide end.

[@frandecatta]

As a wedding photographer, working with natural and different lights, is awesome to have the ISO in the control ring to change those values really fast. Thanks to it, I took some photos in the past that, being slowly in other dial, wouldn't be possible to take. Upper dial to change time value, upper-rear dial aperture value and Control ring to change iso, all the fingers in natural position. The low rear-dial is to chanfe Kelvins. For me, that's the best combination to work :)

[@Adam.Robert]

On R8, I use the control ring for ISO. On C70, I use the control ring for iris. On R5, I use it for exposure compensation when I'm using one of the program modes.

[@DavidJames-sv9sm]

Having "grown up" with EF lenses without a control ring I'm just not used to one. So it's set to off. 😆 I did try, but kept forgetting about it🤔 The R5 has an extra dial that the 5D mk4 did not, so three dials is plenty. Also found the control ring inconsistent in location. Might be an age thing. 🤣

[@ArthurKite]

Jared, you can set the control ring to change your ISO. And, to not change ir acidentally, you can set it to only change the ISO with the shutter button half pressed.

[@matthijs3134]

How do you do this? This sounds quite handy actually

[@bbasiaga]

​@matthijs3134 with the lens attached, the custom controls menu in the camera will let you set up its function.

[@RileyMonthule]

The control ring is great for vlogging in full manual. I can change my veritable ND or use the ring to change iso all on the front of the lens without having to blindly reach behind the camera.

[@dougsmit1]

I did not expect you to address the question but you touched on the subjects in a way. There is more than one third party lens that covers FF at 10mm or under (9 is wider than 10) but does it with manual focus only. Like you said, depth of field is considerable at this focal length. Also, you will have to do manual corrections for vignetting and whatever else you find necessary. In return the prices are a fraction of the Canon list. If price is no object, the compactness might be for some.

[@closeshot7161]

With the EF lens, you can use the EF-RF adapter with drop in polarizer - for some, that may be a plus.

[@gerrya2133]

I thought for sure I would never move on from the EF lens precisely because of the ease of using filters on a lens with front element that juts out like that. But that size and weight reduction is substantial. In a cylinder shape instead of mushrooming at the front. It's so much easier to pack now. Canon knows what they're doing. I thought it was going to be an easy pass. But now I have to think about it.

[@richardgagne7931]

For the control ring I use it for Exposure comp or to change the Kelvin temperature. I use Custom setting (C1, C2 C3) for the programming of the control ring

[@hindermath]

I am using the control ring for changing AF modes.

[@mathewspencer4323]

I use the control ring to switch between object detect auto focus and point auto focus / the different types of autofocus.

[@SteveP_2426]

I use the control ring for ISO on all my RF lenses. I mostly shoot landscapes and it's handy to easily alter ISO in different lights.

[@danwhitton7966]

I wish the lens was faster somewhere between 1.4 - 2.0 for astrophotography. I wonder what the noise would be like in a milkyway shot at F4 with a higher ISO. Maybe Sigma will release an RF mount equivalent at 1.4.

[@bbasiaga]

On my way back grom Arches National Park. You can get up close to a lot of huge things there. My 16mm 2.8 was the most used lens, but i coud have used wider more than a few times. Maybe i should consider this.....

[@Nathan.1882]

I use my control ring on all my RF glass for aperture. It helps it feel more hands-on and keep my shooting interesting. Despite what you think about "accidently" moving the dial, i have never accidently switched the aperture settings on it ever.

[@DaneRThomas]

I use the control ring to adjust exposure compensation to better deal with backlit situations or to avoid clipping highlights

[@HikingBob]

I don't use the control ring because it's too easy to turn by accident and I don't want to accidently change some vital setting.

[@matthijs3134]

Thanks for this review! I just moved from EF to RF and the only lens that's missing in my bag next to my 28-70 and 100-500 is a wide angle for those nice interior shots and this sold me on the 10-20!

[@onlysublime]

That stadium shot is spectacular ! I've got the lens pre-ordered at B&H! Can't wait !!!

[@adamfalgout6601]

I use the Control ring constantly for white balance control for video and photos, since I short manual white balance.

[@ElijahsAba]

Been using Sony’s 12-24 with my Nikon Z - works great.

[@travelexplorer]

I am using the Lowa 10mm 2.8 on my R5C and Is fantastic!, the ultra wide factor works wanders in tourism images

[@richarddenise3886]

In one word: Excellent! It will be a permanent addition to any Trinity kit with the 28-70/2 in the middle!

[@clayeewing]

Switching from FD to EF to RF, control rings fall outside my need range. I've been waiting for over a month for this lens (RF 10-20) to be sent out, and only slowed enough before ordering to have the camera store give me a good price (as good as it gets, and better than I saw on eBay) on my EF 11-24. I've loved the 11-24 since it came out and haven't regretted the purchase price even once...except for not wanting to carry it into the back country or anywhere, for that matter, except for the specific places I've used it (mostly real estate interiors). Take away half the size and weight, and I foresee this being in my bag or on my camera all the time. I'll see if that little button on the side gets any more use than the control rings on my RF lenses.

[@aspotterabroad4145]

I just found myself in a situation, photographing inside an aircraft, where my 24-105 wasn’t going to be wide enough. The only thing wide enough that I had was the 8-15mm fisheye. Sure, I got one or two shots that work with the fisheye, but I can submit an entire set of that now can I !! Looks like I now need this 10-20mm lens, thanks Fro !

[@thor9722]

Control ring for switch focus type, especially when you try to focus people but eye focus just can’t land the eye you want, then you need a quick switch to point focus.

[@segercliffhanger]

Control ring for exposure compensation. I set aperture and speed to manual and ISO to auto. Whenever I change my F or S (or both), auto ISO takes care of at least a decent exposure (in my kind of photography, quick reaction matters). If I need to, I can add light to or take away light from that decent exposure, using the control ring to simply dial in a few or a lot of extra + or - 1/3 of 1/2 stops. Sitting right on the lens, it feels like opening or closing a can of light, haptonomically correct.

[@CassioHungria85]

Why not set it to ISO then?

[@segercliffhanger]

@@CassioHungria85 Because then, the ring would be setting bare ISO values. I set my control ring to manually add to or subtract from auto-ISO values my camera finds and dials in for me.

[@thecalebpringle]

I've always had the control ring set to Kelvin for video. Don't really use it in photo that much.

[@alfredogalindo2659]

I always watch your new videos and re-view the old ones, I use the control ring to change focus mode, as a wedding photographer with changing people and objects very quickly in front of my camera, with a little twist of the control ring, "voila" move from face detection to single point focus.

[@adjake1]

I actually occasionally use the ring when shooting in kelvin. certain light conditions shooting landscapes I can't always visualize the shot in the viewfinder because the color is way off. not often

[@clinttrahan]

I use the control ring for manual white balance. being color blind, i find auto WB too hard in post; so its set to adjust WB.

[@Davitor1]

I use the outer ring to change AF methods from faces, spot AF, 1 point AF, expanded etc.

[@rtfinklea]

I use the control ring for ISO. Set to hold the shutter button down halfway to adjust. Incredibly convenient

[@kdw75]

JARED! I would love to see a video of your workflow for making a youtube video.

[@WhyitJellyDonut]

I use the control ring for exposure compensation and leave ISO on auto. I let the camera change the ISO up or down when Im changing subjects from sunny to shaded areas and use exposure compenation to correct for when auto iso is wrong with backlit subjects or high contrast areas, auto iso is also way faster than I ever could manually and it works great!

[@SteelRiderCarl]

Vignetting correction on+distortion correction OFF=🔥🔥🔥🔥 But what do I like about this the most? Getting a used 11-24mm which is still amazing for less!

[@mrhallphotography]

I use the control ring for exposure compensation when shooting landscapes and MACRO..

[@CassioHungria85]

Why not ISO?

[@JohnScarrott]

The lens I've been waiting for! 🥳🥳🥳 UK price is a joke though at £2,579.99 which is US$3138.64, that's $839.64 more than the US price, which is a staggering 36.5% more! And they wonder why people in the UK buy grey imports 🙄🙄 I'll be buying from the UK as I need the UK warranty on it, so I'll have to wait for a decent sale price before I get one. Great shots by the way! 🤩

[@lovemycity420]

I use the control ring to change focus modes, usually going from face tracking to one point back and forth!

[@photojasinski]

I'm so excited for this lens! I love my 11-24 with the ND filter adapter, but I travel more than I am home so this is a perfect replacement for that old EF lens and my RF 14-35!

[@dream3443]

Do you feel having the ND Filter Adapter & EF 11-24mm is worth trading out for the 10mm? I have the same setup and wonder if it's worth it vs stepping back a bit. The lens however is alluring. Would like your thoughts.

[@photojasinski]

Just received my 10-20 and will have the opportunity to test it out this week. So far the size and weight is crazy better compared to the 11-24. The lens is even lighter than the 14-35. Hopefully rear gelatin filters can be used similarly to the ND filter adapter on the EF. If it weren’t for travel I wouldn’t rush to replace my 11-24. @@dream3443

[@b7_jose278]

I use the control ring on the R8 to change aperture. This is what I change the least. Now I can change the iso and shutter on proper dials.

[@richardgagne7931]

For the control ring I use it to for Exposure Comp

[@oskarlundberg1151]

I use the controll ring for white balance, works great. Not really a necessity in any way but nice to have a easy way to change it while looking through the view finder

[@JohnMacLeanPhotography]

Back around 1980 when I got my first UWA lens, the Nikkor 20mm f/3.5 Ai, it was considered very wide and affordable compared to the Nikkor 15mm and 13mm behemoths. Now 20mm seems like a 28mm or even 35mm did then. I have had the EF 11-24mm since Feb 2017. I can't say I use it all that often, but it comes in handy for unique image compositions when the opportunities arise. I've got the 10-20 on pre-order to both rent and to buy, whichever is available first. I'll probably end up selling the 11-24.

[@AnthonyGugliotta]

I use the control ring to mind control the subjects that I shoot

[@andriimartynov83]

I use the control ring as an exposure compensation control because my RP is lacking the third control ring. It’s a useful feature for the budget cameras.

[@budthecyborg4575]

5:23 "Wider without correction." Interesting, this means that with the R7 you're potentially getting as much as 14mm equivalent FoV instead of the expected 16mm.

[@emotionblur7214]

Good and exhaustive review as usual. One question though: how can you tell that it's "10mm corrected", is that what Canon specifically claims? Otherwise, you should properly, precisely measure the field of view to verify that. Comparing with another lens wouldn't do, because also the other lens is corrected in its own way.

[@trevor9934]

It is 10mm corrected. What happens, and Jarod demonstrated this, is that the actual Field of View captured before correction is like using a 8 or 9mm FL lens. That extra area is used by the algorithms applied in camera to the EVF and LCD displays as you shoot, JPGs in camera, and via lens correction in PS and LR to render the now corrected image with a Field of View of 10-20mm.

[@panzer948]

Shoot, I just got the R6 MkII and realized my old Tamron 10-24mm (for EHS APS-C cameras) will not really be 10mm on my Full Frame camera. Ouch I was hoping I wouldn't need a new wide angle, especially after just buying the RF 24-70 with the camera! Maybe there are some aftermarket/3rd party options since I will not be using the wide angle as often.

[@Sam1986E]

I use the control ring to change focus points (including eye detection) Pre-ordered this lens and excited to check it out

[@davidligon6088]

Great review. I like the way you showed vignetting, and your Lightroom correction settings. FYI: I have the Sony 20-70 F4 and I love it! It has a bit more vignetting than the Canon 10-20. At first, I thought it was my filter. I would opt for the 10-20 F4 rather than the 14-35 F4, myself, as long as the corners were sharp, but I cannot help but point out that you are shooting at 20mm at 12:57. I doubt I would miss the 20-24 much.

[@iang7007]

Thanks Jared :) Do you have lens aberration correction turned on in camera for these shots? we have a new R1 and RF10-20 trying to figure this out. thanks :)

[@KepaWong]

I use the control ring for exposure compensation.

[@MonsieurSansHonte]

I use the control ring to adjust the ISO setting.

[@IsaacTrippetPersonal]

I use the control ring for white balance because it is useful for the viewfinder, but not essential when shooting RAW

[@sajjanreshami]

Thank you for this amazing review. I really liked the lens and thinking about adding it to my kit in near future. As you asked us what we used customizable ring for, in my case I used it to quickly change my kelvin value when the white balance is set to K mode. In that way I can change shutter speed, Aperture, ISO, and white balance in the fly.

[@trnwired]

Great video. Helped me out a lot in deciding whether I wanted to add this lens to my bag. Been using a Sigma 14 mm f 2.8 with adapter on my Canon R Series cameras.

[@explodingheavens]

10-20mm, soon 200-800mm. Just what is sony (not) doing... I'm pretty interested in those FoVs. 18-35 f1.8, 150-400 f4 added to my 35-150 and full reach is complete.

[@bikermann42]

Control ring for ISO. Wish I'd had this lens for the aurora borealis display last week.

[@skyscraperfan]

Digital corrections are a problem, because they mean that you do not use the full sensor. So could you still call it a full frame photo? And if the vignetting is something like four stops, can you still call it an f/4 lens? It may be f/4 in the center, but just f/16 in the corners. Noise reduction got a lot better, but if you use ISO 2000 in the center, it is basically ISO 32000 in the corners. Assuming of course it is for stops, but sadly some RF lenses have four stops of vignetting. And of course IS is always appreciated. Think of night shots without moving subjects. Six stops of IS mean ISO 400 instead of ISO 25600.

[@trevor9934]

As Jarod explained, the lens actually delivers the Field of View after correction of the stated 10-20mm - you are getting what you paid for. It actually shoots a little wider than this and uses that extra width to allow the corrective algorithms to do their job and render the full 10-20mm, but now corrected for distortion and vignetting. So, you ARE getting a FF FoV that matches the specified values. This is not new, there are multiple other lenses and brands doing the same correction using computational photography, which has been going on with cell phones for a long time. So, one could say that finally dedicated cameras are catching up on the application of this technology. It is brilliant, because the new digital capacities of the latest generation of cameras and lenses can utilize this to take the pressure off pure optics and allow smaller, lighter, cheaper units that can be updated or improved further through firmware upgrades. The same thing applies to the f/stops. Yes, UNCORRECTED, there is significant light fall-off and vignetting on the corners, but that is the point of the correction algorithms which must now be considered as part of the process. If you look through the viewfinder the image is already corrected in camera, as are the JPGs, and when one brings the images into PS or LR they will be corrected seamlessly unless one goes to the effort to turn them off. For some, they may want that effect, but I would venture that the vast majority of users will appreciate getting a corrected 10-20mm FoV that is light, compact and much more affordable.

[@jasonatkinson2542]

Thanks Jared, this is the lens I've been waiting for, great review esp under lights

[@clerle]

Great review Jared: I'm very curious to know how it will perform on the R5 MKII, or maybe on the R1... 😉

[@garethcooper3544]

Hi Jared, the uncorrected extra crazy wide corners is an unexpected feature of this lens. I really like the images at the end of your review...love the B&W selfie in the helicopter...could you post a 100% crop of the reflection in your sun glasses? that would be fun to see...and demonstrate the bonkers DOF that a 10mm lens offers. I do thing the limited long end is a wee dissapointment...we would all have loved to see this extend out to 24mm....but hey, it's the lens that Canon have given us and it's an amazing tool. it's not a particularly useful lens for serious landsacpe work due to the lack of filter support....however for photojournalism...this lens is amazing and possibly the last word in walkabouts UWA lenses. Especially how well it behaves in contre-jour and back lit situations. OMG, best sunstars ever...and no ghosting, ugly sreaks, flare or fringing.

[@drummerg3331]

Great review Jared! This would be a great lens to video my daughter’s volleyball games so that the entire court fits on the screen without having to pan back and forth. Also, I use the control ring to easily and quickly change my focus areas (for example, a switch from spot focus to wide area). I find this much quicker than going into the menu.

[@maksrej5082]

I would love to have this lens because i love shooting wide, really wide

[@garrettsmith182]

I use the control ring to change the AF area, really is fantastic to swap from single point to area to facial recognition. Makes things so much faster. My biggest gripe with Canon is that certain camera models are limited on what you can set the control ring to do when its as simple as enabling it in the firmware. Only the R6-R3 can do this i believe

[@kokoze]

Oh yeah Canon is notorious for gatekeeping premium firmware :/

[@peaceyoman123]

i use tha control ring for appiture as well as the back dile for my R6ii. not a lens i can justify anytime soon, but i love that it is out and love this for you. keep it up.

[@photovision_90]

Control ring is uesfull if you have low end camera without enough fast rotating control. like on R5 for ISO, Shutter and Aperture.

[@MichaelArmao-x6f]

Jared the rf 10-20 how does this work indoors for real estate. When at 10 mm and the camera is straight and level do you get straight lines on both sides of the frame?

[@marcosantos5284]

Hi! It's possible use a polariser filter in the RF10-20mm ?

[@G95G95]

I want this lens, I do actually wish it went to 24 though, and here's why, 24 is long enough for general purpose shooting, 20 is firmly ultrawide. It would have been amazing to not have to be limited to ultrawide only shots when using this lens, if it had 24, you could take this single lens to many settings and instantly jump from crazy ultrawide, to 24 which is super versatile, 10-20 can't really stand alone, it's firmly an exotic, special use lens. I also hate the control ring, and just disable it, and put a strip off black tape over it for better grip/handling.

[@MrWoodward42]

@G95G95 You may want to consider the Sigma 14-24mm f/2.8 Art lens (EF mount) -- It's 1/2 the price of the Canon lens reviewed here, just as sharp, and 1 full stop faster! No OIS -- But do you really need IS on such a wide-angle lens now that most Canon bodies have IBIS? Sure, it doesn't go to 10mm, but 14mm is pretty darn wide. And it reaches that special 24mm that you're seeking.

[@G95G95]

@@MrWoodward42 I already have the RF15-35/2.8. My point is that having record setting 10mm is awesome, and it would be even more awesome if in order to use it, you didn't have to lose a more normal versatile fov. But yeah, 14-24 it's a good range too

[@trevor9934]

@G95G95 @@MrWoodward42 Well, for a considerable saving, one could get the RF 14-35L f/4 IS USM that offers a much wider focal range, takes a normal 77mm filter has image stabilization that works with IBIS and has similar image correction to the 10-20. I have one and it's absolutely stunning. I tend to need that extra stop of light less, certainly for DoF because with such short FL, the DoF is massive, and the stabilization more than makes up for the stop of light compared to the Sigma, which would require an EF-RF adapter and is not supported by Canon, so if you have issues, it's up to Sigma to sort them out.

[@wizsnapsalot2]

I use the control ring to change ISO but forget to use it often 😂 it's definitely messed me up when shooting the milky way at night because I was using manual focus and grabbed the control ring instead.

[@neilstevensphotography]

Control Ring for me is to access the ISO on my Canon RP... With dials to change the Shutter and Aperture on the Camera, it saves me having to adjust the major settings on the back of the camera. Are you able to use screw on Filters with this?

[@matthewsinger]

I use the control ring for ISO. I'm sure you've already thought of that, and, like me, sometimes I hit the control ring when I mean to adjust the focus, so I'm ambivalent about it. But I do find it useful on my camera which doesn't have a 3rd dial on the body.

[@benjaminmellish]

I set my control ring to exposure metering so that I can shoot in auto ISO and allow the camera to get the right exposure for me. All I have to think about it aperture and shutter speed and seeing as these are the creative tools, I like to focus on them as the camera probably can expose better than me. What are your thoughts?

[@CassioHungria85]

Why not set to change iso?

[@julh5336]

The controll ring is awesome for iso setting

[@p.c.1346]

Can I use your Presets also if I only use Cameraw Raw??? Or it only works with Lightroom? Thanks for the Great Stuff from a German Canon Fan Boy (since 2004)....

[@Mathieu_Matheow_Benoit]

I just got a R8(mostly based on your review btw) for wildlife and all my lenses are EF for now. The use i can think of for the control ring is to (rarely) adjust my aperture.

[@ProfessorStone]

They need to do better with the lens correction profiles, if there's any shadows or you're purposefully shooting dark, you get TONS of banding and it's basically not useable.

[@funkykiller666]

Hi Jared, personnaly, il use the control ring for aperture. You have two dials on your body and one on your lens for the three basics setup of photography. Thanks for all your content, fresh news and consistant tests. Did you already try Olympus OM1 ? Il know you don't like MFT, but the focus staking and HDR is amazigly fast versus the others brands.

[@Stego86]

Very good coverage of all the main aspects of this beast of a lens!

[@Gremlack13]

I used the control ring to change my shutter speed on the rp, as it only has two wheels to control the shutter, aperture, and iso. On my r6ii there are three wheels and I haven’t needed to use the control ring very much. Depending on the situation and camera combo it can actually be very useful.

[@julius4858]

I use the control ring for exposure compensation

[@HikingBob]

I'm a landscape photographer in the western US and sometimes (mountain lakes, canyons, etc) having an ultra-wide is the ideal lens. I'm currently using the 14-35L and the 24-105L, and am now wondering if I should trade in the 14-35 for the 10-20? Will I have a problem with the 4mm gap between the 10-20 and the 24-105? And what about the 11-24EF? I can get a good used one for under $1500... Choices, choices...

[@trackfast5563]

I use the control ring to switch between AF methods

[@elipacker3932]

If using the range of 20mm with this lens is not relevant, why not to get a prime len with 10mm instead? Is there such a full frame lens with auto focus for Canon? Even ef and 3rd party.

[@unclebuck5957]

Love the pictures you did with this lens 10 mm looks great

[@tomasadameccom]

Great job Jared !! What do you think is better for professional work when you compare pure image quality? Is it better to have the RF 14-35 together with the fixed Laowa 12mm Zero-D lens (ok, you probably don't use it) or can I better replace both with this RF 10-20mm? Is this new zoom at least as good as the RF 14-35mm (at 14mm) or is it even better (sharpness, contrast...) and on top of that it can display as well or better than the 10-12mm? I need the 12mm, but not at the price of worse drawings on 14mm. What is your opinion please? I don't mind the sw correction, but how does it look on the video? Are the videos with straight lines and no vignetting? And when software corrections clarify the corners with vignetting, doesn't the image degrade and increase noise in the corners?

[@lynsmith1096]

Good review and shots Jared.

[@bradleyrex2968]

There are people who need their zooms to touch. That is they must have a 24-70 and a 70-200 because the 70 is common to both. Back when 35-70 and 80-200 was the norm, I had someone tell me they were concerned about what to do if they needed 75mm.

[@trevor9934]

In that case you take a step forward or back , or crop a bit. Good heavens, what do they think those who use only primes do?

[@rhykko77]

Some great shots there Jared !

[@dreadnoughtphotowerkz]

What gel filters work with this lens?

[@sophietarafiona]

Hello Jared, One beg for your opinion if I may: for those who aren't shooting for a living as pros like you, but do try to take the occasional, hopefully somewhat creative shots here and there, would you say that keeping a 2nd hand EF 11-24 with slot in filter EF-to-RF adapter on an R6 MkII quality wise for the 11-24 (compared to the new glass) is no reason to feel bad for not getting the new RF 10-20 considering weight is just something you occasionally have to live with and money ofcourse is always an issue for amateurs ? I have the R6 Mk.II based on your review of it and the used EF 11-24mm f4 , the RF 24-105 L f4 as part of the kit and the 2nd hand EF 100-400mm IS Mk.II USM and it took me a while to put that together financially. I hope I can say I got all my bases more or less covered as an amateur ?!? I do sin against your common reasoning here as I do like using that polarising filter in the adapter with the 11-24... yes, I know, I'm weird. Thanks for your continuous efforts to teach us all out here. I do hope I did not ask anything too stupid or uninformed just now. ;-)

[@GenshinTravel-mf4dx]

Correct me if I am wrong. A true wide angle lens where the correction are done mostly at lens level optically is what make them so expensive in the past. Shouldn't this lens be a priced cheaper?

[@stepheneckert4006]

It is cheaper. The 11-24 was $3k, this is $2300 and a millimeter wider with IS added

[@trevor9934]

You are right about the lens correction. The 10-20 is significantly cheaper, as Jarod demonstrated. The older 10-24 costs about $3k while the RF 10-20 is about $2k and has full OIS that works with IBIS.

[@Fcoutinho]

what about video usage, how does the correction apply?

[@froknowsphoto]

it's automatically applied in camera as long as lens corrections are on

[@reigndavis7930]

Can someone explain to me what he means by the correction . Like will I have to do this to every pic . Or will I be able to upload the pics and it will already be corrected

[@trevor9934]

If you have a cell phone and take photos with it you are using highly corrected images - and that has been the case with those devices for some time. It has been a long time coming to dedicated cameras but this is how it works. In terms of pure optics, the lens is shooting with a physical FL of around 8 or 9mm, generating a wider Field of View (what is captured by the sensor of the image that is projected from the lens onto it). The camera's sophisticated system then uses a set of algorithms (computational photography) to use that extra captured area to wrangle the image, correct distortion and square everything up, and remove the vignetting. The result is then presented as a FF 24x36mm image of a FoV that is 10-20mm. As I say this methodology of laying on mathematical corrections is not new. In fact, when lenses were only using pure optics, the mathematics had to be applied to the optical design of the elements, making them much bulkier, heavier and significantly more complex and expensive. So, you are now getting a huge benefit from doing the same corrections mathematically to the recorded data. The image you will see in the viewfinder will be corrected seamlessly, as will be out of camera JPG files. If you are using DPP4, Photoshop, Lightroom or any of the other major PP packages, this will again be applied automatically, unless you make an effort to turn it off.

[@fabeaux8623]

I still need to know how wide it is compared to the 8-15 Fisheye, why is nobody covering that??

[@shootloadrepeat]

This is 2mm wider. You're welcome.

[@fabeaux8623]

@@shootloadrepeat the 10-20 @ 10mm and the 8-15 @ 10mm are not the same you keyboard troll. Thats like saying the 15-35 @ 15mm and the 8-15 @ 15mm are the same, they're not. I want to know how the 10-22 @ 10mm compares to the 8-15 @ 15mm.

[@borocotochacha]

Canon´s serious issues due to corrections add some mm. I´m sure that in rallity this RF is 12 corrected. Same with most RF lenses.. you pay for a focal length but end up with other.

[@fabeaux8623]

@@borocotochacha Youre mistaken here. As Jared clearly demonstrates (as well as a couple other reviews already posted), this lens shows a wider image than the 11-24 at 11mm. If anything, the uncorrected image is closer to 9mm, while the corrected image is the advertised 10mm. Regardless of what you think and what numbers say. This lens, while corrected, is still wider than any lens ive seen it compared to in review (except the 8-15 because I still havent seen that comparison).

[@borocotochacha]

@@fabeaux8623 same brand lens is not reference of anything . Have you ever tested lenses from different brands and figure out differences? Rf 70-200 f4 is 185 😂. Sony 200-600 is almost 550 🙃

[@meteoritoIII]

Hi Jared! I use the control ring on my RF lens to set White Balance ;) cheers from Chile!