Carburettor Rebuild On My Cheap Ferrari 308 - Featuring Iain Tyrrell

It started with a routine carburettor rebuild on my Ferrari 308 but once again ended up with questions about the whole engine possibly needing a rebuild. Iain Tyrrell advises on this episode.. and I will be visiting him for the next one. Check out his fantastic channel below...
/ @iain_tyrrell
FULL INFLUENZO EPISODE LIST: • InfluEnzo - Ferrari 30...

[@Number27]

NEXT EPISODES: 22. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4upg6iZdqmta80 Good news.. bad news and a clue about a new car I've bought! Ferrari 308 23. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rH_Zfa2visl0o7c My cheap Ferrari 308 does have a major engine problem... FULL EPISODE LIST: kzbin.info/aero/PL-JmG4958QS8v5Bn2lol3bm8YQ4UNRstU

[@francom2052]

This actual car was my fathers about 15 years ago and was in our family for quite a lot of years, I recognised the registration number from the thumbnail. Drop me a line if you would like to know any more about the history and provenance of your car! Great to see the car again!

[@cp4512]

Ian Tyrell is one of the best things I’ve found on the internet this year. A font of knowledge and a lovely style. Great to see him helping you out 👍

[@IAN1000IAN]

I've got to agree , he could easily have his own tv show.

[@racecarrandy99]

It's wonderful to see others pitch in to help you out. No snobs here just car guys. Good on everybody.

[@ffonseca0]

Mr. Ian Tyrell is the way go for info, love to watch his channel, it's just pure knowledge sharing. Sure that when you get the car sorted, it will be a joy to ride.

[@ryanmccormick2150]

I feel for you Jack! but on the bright side Iain Tyrell is a mechanical genius so at least you have the best help possible ! keep your chin up im sure everything will turn out just fine 🙂 👍

[@giovannigallo8429]

Iain Tyrell is a legend...

[@marcryvon]

But very costly, unless he gives this bloke a break !

[@GenaF]

@@marcryvon You have to pay for his knowledge. There aren't many about with as much knowledge and as many contacts as Iain Tyrrell. He is THE top man and for that, you have to pay through the nose.

[@jukkaaunola5942]

It's better value to pay top dollars to someone who knows and fixes the issue "in no time" vs. paying someone trying to figure out what's wrong and spending a lot of time on that and maybe get it a bit better...also many times you might eventually need to go to the expert and get him to permanently fix the root cause of the issue....

[@mohnnadmercedes8246]

The cost of knowledge! For example a visit to experienced consultant cost way more than a newly licensed one

[@nsxsennaforever]

Great video, even if you got some new troubles. Iain will help. However, engine not dropping back to idle is probably on of two. You have a air leak between carbs and the inlet. Your gaskets are failing to do the job or you have overtightened the carbs and made them banjo like. Then you need to sand down the fittings to make them even. Or two, the carbs are not syncronized properly after the rebuild. So the butterflies simply do not go down evenly. The water / moist... Well I belive it is the cold garage and the stop and starting. Most Ferraris are used only in sunny weather and warm garages. Don´t panic it is not a rebuild. If you have a small head gasket problem, why not retorque the headbolts. It may have been rebuild once and that was forgotten. Cheers from Norway!

[@ianmichaelbryant2643]

good call sometimes but not in this case (assuming Jack's description is accurate) ... when he puts load on the engine to lower the rpm it stays down if there was an air leak the rpm would just rise straight up again as soon as he disengaged the load

[@majorscope]

The mayo issue could be lack of regular use over a long time. Much more condensation build up on short journeys. Take it to Scotland and back then take a look. Also analyse the sump oil.

[@lanceboyle492]

Thermostat could also be allowing the engine to run too cold. Could be defective but many people put in low temperature thermostats in the mistaken belief that it will help prevent overheating.

[@sawzall12000]

I agree with majorscope. When you constantly do short trips, the engine never has the time to heat up fully and evaporate the condensation built up from a cool engine warming. Hence the appearance of water in the oil. It needs to be driven at length under stress, periodically, to eliminate the moisture buildup. As for the blow by system (tube stopped up with mayonnaise)now that its clean, I'd definitely check the PCV valve for more sludge and the air filters for possible oil blow back.

[@SLYDIT]

Take it on a decent trip. Lots of short trips in the English gloom is bound to have it all condensated up

[@BlatentlyFakeName]

Cars do not like sitting un-used for ages. Especially mid engine cars with the engine bay exposed to the weather. Putting a wet car in the garage or under a cover will also create a ton of condensation. Same if you put a hot engine under a cover on cold day.

[@Danyella72]

These cars, they're such a labour of love! We love them, even though they constantly break our hearts!

[@Number27]

Yes indeed!! Thanks for watching!

[@grahamtricker4103]

Not sure about the "labour of love" bit, I think it is just classic Ferrari ownership, which is why Ferrari sell new ones with a 7 year warranty. Just too many bad stories and experiences from previous owners. Older models up to the 458 are just not durable enough for occasional use...

[@franciscoamaral4383]

Great respect to Ian for being so helpful, engaged and down to earth! The quintessential gentleman. Don’t give up on that 308! Keep it up 👍

[@blarkdexture8899]

Wow, I love Iain Tyrrell

[@1183newman]

he's the best guy to ask about these classic cars

[@grimson]

Absolute pleasure watching him work on classics. So completely in his element with his depth of knowledge.

[@johnspelic9861]

Always pop the cam covers when changing the timing belts on these to check that the marks on the cams to the notches on the journal caps line up. No need to use a dial wheel and gauges with 2v engines as they are far more forgiving than 4v engines, just line up the marks at PM1-4. Once that is confirmed: When checking total ignition advance, ‘total’ timing is only seen once all the weights and springs are fully compressed, which is at 6000rpm and up. The factory says to check for 34 degrees at 5000rpm, but the factory doesn’t say the distributor still has some more advance to go above that. These early 2v carb engines like to run 37-38 degrees total timing at 6000rpm and up, which usually translates to 34 at 5000rpm. I prefer to check and make certain the engine is getting a boatload of timing in this inefficient hemi head by even under 4000rpm, but that is incredibly challenging to set up on a distributor machine. An electromotive crank trigger system does wonders for these. Next: carb jetting. With current gasoline and F36 emulsion tubes, every carb 308 I’ve tuned loves a 135 or 150 main jet with a 190 or 200 air corrector and 55 idle. They all have been within this range and when checking on wideband a/f meter it generally yields best a/f ratio for power with that combination, which is about 12.6:1. As an added benefit, the larger main jet will bring the main circuit a little sooner which often aids in the transition stumble from idle to main circuit. Best- J

[@1968spikey]

Fantastic reply

[@timothymills733]

Mr. Tyrrell joining your channel; you Sir have made it; well done.

[@Number27]

Thanks Timothy.. he’s a great chap!!

[@bobmcl2406]

Always remember this important rule: "90% of carburation problems are ignition-related"!

[@SpencerF6]

"Have a good Christmas" = don't call me again before then 😅

[@Number27]

😄 he’s off on holiday to South Africa!

[@grimson]

hahaha thought the same thing - meant in a gentlemanly way of course.

[@SpencerF6]

@@Number27 Lucky him. That explains it. 😁

[@paredding]

Totally - just bring the car up and we can PX it for something that is fettled. Will give you a fair price...honest ;-)

[@itiejim]

High tickover is likely to be an air leak from the carbs and I'd say that the moisture is condensation rather than HG. The cam timing may well be out, the only way to really check is by setting it up properly with a dial gauge on the cams. IIRC there are some marks on the cams, but I don't think they are terribly accurate and are best considered a starting point for setting your dial gauges up. It's a good opportunity to do the valve clearances too 👍

[@GRfourfun]

Chin up chap, I feel your pain but appreciate you taking us on this rollercoaster ride. You will sort it and we will all share the elation with you.

[@testacorsa1]

That Ian Tyrrell chap just oozes class to me. I don't know why, other than him being nice and well spoken, but it's a British thing as well. Fingers crossed for your engine!

[@Potate_potate]

Don’t be down, it’s always fun to have a project. Live through the lows and enjoy the highs!

[@thhall459]

Bless you brother. It’s great exhilarating anguish watching you struggle through each problem. You’ll get this one!

[@NoWay23548]

This has sailed up to be one of my favorite channels the last six months. Jack’s humor is stellar!

[@Number27]

That is very kind.. thank you!!

[@2702simmo]

Agreed

[@PhilUKNet]

His honesty as well. Doesn't try to present an Instagram perfect life, very open and shares the bad as well as the good. And ... he replies to comments. A lot of KZbinrs don't. Top man!

[@RKW1138]

You're in an abusive relationship now with a long past her prime super model.

[@thhall459]

Perfect analogy!

[@UncleBucksHat]

I went through the same kind of relationship with much younger models. I am conflicted on whether they are worth it or not.

[@Galatzo]

@@UncleBucksHat Forget finances, rate it in smiles per gallon

[@pgtmr2713]

@@Galatzo 2 Amber Heards out of 5.

[@michaelwhelan564]

Hi Jack. My I suggest getting a sample of coolant analysed for oil / hydrocarbon contamination and do a compression test in order to rule in (or out) head gasket failure. I t might save you a lot of work. You could also do a coolant system pressure test. If there is no goo in the coolant header tank it might just be condensation in a breather pipe ...if that is what it is....good luck and keep enthusiastic!

[@Number27]

Yes good idea.. think I’ll do that!

[@michaelwhelan564]

@@Number27 oh, I meant to say I had a lotus which would not return to idle speed....it turned out to be leaking float combined with air leaks at the throttle spindle seals.....the bearings were perfect, but the seals were hard and slightly off the bearing seat. The care drove fine at wider throttle openings. !!

[@kge420]

I’m always impressed with the amount of work that goes on in English garages. They seem so small. Well done.

[@Number27]

Thanks Keith!! And yes, they are tiny!!

[@ezdubbin97]

Haha yes, I agree...watching “Ratarossa” who just picked up a project 512BBI...I’m astounded at how he is planning a rebuild in such a small garage!! I complain about my 30’x40’ barn sometimes 😂.

[@eze8970]

You are truly bonding with this car! Wishing for you that it's something simple! Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@RickCT2000]

Iain is a legend and a fine gentleman as well. Glad to see you two working together. You both have highly educational and entertaining channels. I hope you guys can find a way to avoid a full rebuild. And remember, wear your belt. We need to keep you safe in the Infuenso. KZbin would not be the same without you!

[@p.j.mcdonough6710]

I really enjoy the adventure! Keep the fantastic content coming!

[@lascm5237]

Flipping heck, I freaked out stripping/rebuilding the twin carbs on the MGB, you’re a very brave boy Jack 😁

[@nobb1euk1]

In my old life I was a mechanic for over 25 years. We would see this white creamy substance in breather systems all the time when the car is only run on short journeys. Condensation builds up and causes the breathed engine oil vapour to turn white. It can be a bit of a task to clear out breather lines etc but normally doesn’t indicate anything sinister. Not saying deffo not serious but I would say just a victim of short journeys and will be fine. You can pressurise the cooling system and see if the oil on the dip stick turns white, have had that before indicating head gasket failure but 9 times out of 10 it’s not serious.

[@Number27]

Thanks buddy.. I’m working on it!!

[@Plummetking]

Superb video JACK..........Keep persevering and you'll sort in the end and it will make you love the car even more mate!

[@bath1968]

Hang in there Bud, just love the videos!!

[@Number27]

Thank you!!

[@MrClingclong]

Iain Tyrrell's KZbin channel is great. His re-build of Harry's Espada is worth a watch.

[@melondog82]

Why didn't you change the floats?? When you was advised to when rebuilding them??

[@Number27]

They were on order.. now received but have other priorities right now!

[@Motivatorteo]

@@Number27 Do you have plans to go back and fit the uprated floats Jack?

[@Number27]

Yes, I have them now but want to get the car going right first before changing anything else

[@truckpilot]

I feel your pain. I have a number of cars/bikes that give me the same trouble. You will get to the bottom of the problems I am sure. So glad also you have stayed firmly planted with your KZbin videos. Not gone all commercial like tavarish and very sad ratarossa. Sending spannering good wishes.

[@rpeter46]

@@truckpilot I LOVE ratarossa!

[@petrjerabek7641]

Thumbs up with your Influenzo. Great to watch and fantastic, that Mr Iain Tyrrell is going to help. His decision to share knowledge and experience in public is just a great idea. I like your videos on Influenzo, because it is fun and a lot of us (amateurs owning and repairing classic cars - at least trying to) will find ourselves in it. I also had few "mysterious" faults with my old cars ... My friends the same

[@pi.actual]

Slow down Jack. You are in panic mode and your guesses are all over the map. Start with the idle issue - all you did was mess with the carbs so it's almost guaranteed that whatever is causing it involves that. As for the ignition timing - have you got a timing light? Start with that. Regarding the sludge in the breather you probably need to pull the cam covers off which you will want to do anyway to check your valve timing. Since Ian had mentioned it you would have been wise to have done that while the carbs were off since it would have been a lot easier but that's all water under the bridge now. Just adopt the attitude that you love tinkering with your Ferrari and the experience will be much more enjoyable. As Ian said, you're going to love it once you've sorted out all of the deferred maintenance issues.

[@Locoandchooch]

I'm impressed he rebuilt those carbs, thats tough.

[@gavinkitto4774]

Jack, I agree with what many others have said. I wouldn't be worrying about the mayo (yet), looks like there was so much that breathers were blocked and the vapours could no longer escape which worsened the buildup. Clear all the gunk, check that the breather system now works and then focus your attention on the new running issues which can probaby be fixed with tuning & timing. I have fitted a catch tank to the breather system in my classic, its been on a few years and I can reliably say in summer I get a few ml per 1000miles, in winter I can catch maybe 150ml of oil/water mix in only 500miles (and I don't do short journeys)!!!!

[@mikemccaffrey3093]

One of the things I found out was running a wideband O2 sensor with some logging really helps with jet selection.

[@davidmoore6172]

Great video, just subscribed. Being 47 years young myself I thought there's a chap with good taste. 308 in the garage plus vintage RC cars, so 80s oh happy times! 👍👌

[@sonicstep]

Yep! Those off-road RC cars didn't escape my attention. Some are boxed too. Decent examples sell for good money now. 😁

[@Number27]

That’s fantastic, thanks for subbing David. Enjoy your 308

[@CubeCyclone]

It'll come good in the end and then you'll fall in love with that engine all over again. It's just the journey getting there.

[@marcuscopley131]

Looking forward to seeing the next episode. Your tenacity and humour will see you triumph.

[@jimcear1766]

If you’re familiar with a cylinder pressure differential check that could eliminate your worries about , rings, valves, head gasket , block etc. This is not to be confused with the usual automotive compression check . we use this on aircraft piston engines regularly. Very easy to do but you need the proper gauges. Not too expensive

[@Essin62]

I enjoyed your technical discussion with Tyrrell on carbs much more that I thought I would. The depth of his knowledge!

[@edrobertson5217]

Jack, I have spent the last day binging on your 308 journey. It is a car that I still covet. I was so broken up when you had the “accident” with the jack. I must say, you rebounded so well and the car looks FANTASTIC! I like the front spoiler, but was surprised how well removing the rear spoiler improved the look. I am across the pond but have always preferred the euro bumper and lighting kit. You really have outdone yourself! Great job!!

[@joshcallaghan9432]

Are you losing water from the cooling system? They probably just have bad ventilation from factory. Maybe try fitting a catch can. And with the carbs/ idle, its common to have a high idle after cleaning carbs as the gunk that built up in the runners used to seal the butterflies is no longer there so you get air leaks, A lot of people recommend leaving that area alone.

[@robertbcope]

What a coup, working with Iain. I thought you were pretty cool to start with, now you are elevated to hero status.

[@Stealthplateblocker]

Jack - don’t despair! In all the time I have been banging my head on the floor with mine, I end up constantly surprised that problems I thought were terminal have turned out to be fixable without tearing the motor down completely. My engine has never been completely apart in the twenty years I have owned it. I did the carbs just like you did. I went to 60 idle jets but you also need to adjust the idle mixture screws. The “idle” circuit in these Webers isn’t just for running at idle. They control the breathing up to something like 3000 revs after which the mains kick in. Subsequently I went to John Pogson who did all the fine tuning, in the way you’re going to get Iain to do and despite the kick in the balls my credit card took, my God it’s like a different car. It’s beautiful. Anyway, that was the carbs, but the reason for my comment is to tell you about the problem that I had at the same time with the cooling circuit. I took the manifolds off when the carbs were off to clean them up and check them and it was a good job that I did. Some of the water galleries down into the head were battered to buggery. The water cavitates as it flows through some of the pipes and galleries through the engines. It swirls, bubbles and acts like an ultrasonic bath in certain areas. Add a bit of rusty muck and you get a very efficient way of eroding the metal where this is happening. Although with my manifolds there hadn’t been any “breakthrough”, it was very, very close in two or three places. If you have something similar in your engine and there’s a leak which has been created by this cavitation which then sprays water mist into the inlet tract(s), then there’s your mayo and there’s your less than fabulous running at high revs. As I say, I wasn’t at that point, but it wasn’t far away. I had the cavities in the manifold carefully filled with weld and then I rubbed down the excess, finishing on a sheet of glass with grinding paste (very fine paste used for glass grinding though, not valve grinding paste, so be careful). All good. And like I say, the subsequent carb set up after reassembly made it feel like a completely different car. Keep on it, mate! Yours is a beautiful piece of kit and, after all, who the f... wants to drive something that doesn’t need fixing regularly? Where’s the fun in that?!

[@Number27]

Hey buddy, thank you for the advice and encouragement.. I doubt it’s getting in the inlet as there is no smoke when running.. but possible!! Have a great Christmas 🎄!

[@philnj1962]

Really enjoy following your channel Jack, all the way from NZ. Hopefully Iain will be able to help. Keep up the good work. Phil.

[@Number27]

Thank Phil and my best to New Zealand 🇳🇿!!

[@edgeyt1]

I've had the same gunk build up in a crank case breather pipe on a motorbike. I panicked when I first saw it but was told it was caused by condensation and not to worry. Never had any issues and enjoyed the bike for many thousands of miles. It's winter and cold, your engine gets hot and then cools down and the condensation builds up every time you start the engine I wouldn't be overly worried yet.

[@presstodelete1165]

I have found in the past, with motorcycle engines, that this time of year you can get a lot of condensation buildup in the cases if you don't get the lump uup to full temp. Short runs just make it worse - if you are just doing short test runs this may be your problem. Aircooled engines can buildup quite a lot of mayonaise this time of year. A good long run generally boils it off.

[@jimkai5413]

I owned a celica six-r and it ran great, pulled good down low but top end was rubbish, the timing belt was two teeth out. Fingers crossed should be a simple solution for an awesome car. Can’t wait for the result. Cheers Jack.

[@frozenpete788]

The sludge in the pipe really looked like condensation build up, water was clear, very white deposit. If it was mayo, it would be brownish, smell a lot like oil, and you could even spot small droplets of coolant (green or whatever color yours is) at least I hope it's still minor. One (more expensive) tool I appreciate when tuning, is a wideband lambda sensor with a gauge (bung weld and a bit of wiring needed though). I have an Aem uego, and man it helps to understand a lot of things on the fly. It has a sputter or a flat spot, check the afr and it tells so much.

[@Number27]

Interesting to hear that.. thanks!

[@southofheaven123]

Highs and lows mate, checking the timing's free, and then you know where you're at, the distributor workings sound worthwhile chasing up on too, chin up!

[@marcdavis2840]

This is a Obi-Wan Kenobi passing his wisdom to Luke Skywalker moment 😀

[@obi-wankenobi7160]

You will go home and re-think your life.

[@stephenoverstreet9898]

Keep in mind that you did what you could to tune the car for it’s mechanical condition at the time. Then, when you change one thing with the car (timing, carb settings including cleaning jets, exhaust, secondary air pumps, etc.) then your car will instantly run rougher until you retune it. Even a disconnected or leaking vacuum line will cause you to retune the engine FROM THE BEGINNING once you fix it. Break it down into its most basic components. Does the engine have acceptable compression and leak-down in ALL cylinders? Are there ANY vacuum, air, or fuel leaks at all? Are the spark plugs gapped correctly and the correct temperature for the car? Is the engine timed with itself correctly (camshafts to crankshaft)? Is the distributor in perfect working order (including and especially the vacuum advance if there is one)? Is the distributor curved properly? Is it timed with the engine with a timing light? Are all fueling components working well (pump, filters)? THEN AND ONLY THEN, tune the carbs to match the engine. Then you’ve given your car the best possible chance of running correctly, without tuning the car to make up for something else wrong. Think very methodically and simply. And a vacuum gauge is your friend. Sorry for the long comment. Hope this helps.

[@Number27]

Yep my thoughts exactly stephen!

[@Jack-bf6hv]

From my little experience with carbs, having the mixture screw too far out causes the revs to hang and not briskly return to idle. My dell or to book says to start off with them 3 turns out, then one barrel on one carb at a time slowly turn clockwise until the engine starts to stutter, then turn in back anti clockwise out 1/4 turn. And move onto the next barrel/carb.

[@motorv8N]

Deep breath, Jack and keep the faith. You'll get it sorted eventually, especially with Iain on the case. You've been soldiering on admirably. Merry Christmas!

[@neildawes2857]

The fun these 308's give. Check the cam timing. My engine was rebuilt in the mid 90's by a ferrari specialist I completed a rebuild myself last year. And found one inlet cam had actually been a tooth out. I've put 55 jets in and bigger mains. Runs so much better. Check for air leaks on the inlet. Also regarding water?? The inlet manifolds can become corroded where they meet the head, as water is channelled along. Wonder if this is how its getting in, but then possibly expect to see steam in the exhaust.. Maybe a full oil change and see if it comes back. Have fun.

[@Number27]

Thanks Neil, as you say I would expect to see it in the exhaust if it was getting in the combustion chamber..

[@Paul8342]

Iain Tyrrell is a fountain of knowledge - always fascinating to listen to!

[@Number27]

Yep he’s a great guy!!

[@LOTPOR0402]

And you'll probably need a fountain of cash to pay him

[@PhilUKNet]

@@LOTPOR0402 I think Harry's Lamborghini V12 rebuild at Iain's workshop was around 25k pounds.

[@n3307v]

You, the Ferrari and Iain. What a treat.

[@jukesr]

love the fact your rebuilding webbers in your living room .. Class :)

[@ToolkiT73UK]

Something tells me he is single..

[@jukesr]

hopefully, the mayo in your water isn't a warped/cracked cylinder head.. got my fingers crossed for you pal hopefully it's just the head gasket split between oil/water jacket seals.

[@stuarthossack7906]

You react exactly how I would, this is such a roller-coaster, I couldn't handle it - the feeling of helplessness then total relief then helplessness, then relief. Worse than a Turkish massage without the oils.

[@RUNDMC1]

I own a DeLorean. I've been on this roller coaster too and I don't like it :D

[@martinclapton2724]

Hi Jack, I agree with a prev post ,these cars take more than a local trip to shops to get fully warmed through ,especially as it's not a daily use car, as a consequence mayo can build up . Thinking of costs 1st , I would be inclined to whip the cam covers off ,take the plugs out so the engine is easier to turn over by hand,and see how the markers for the cam belt timing line up. You have already done carb clean , I would ere on the side of caution before declaring for a full engine rebuild. I presume she's not losing oil or water so think set up 1st......then take her for a really good run. Best of luck

[@brizzieleif5258]

I subscribed to Iain's channel a few month ago, its great he's helping you out. All these car places I never knew existed when I lived the UK

[@Number27]

Yep he’s a great guy!! Thanks for watching buddy!

[@bravotango834]

So sorry to hear this news, it’s been a real battle but keep your chin up. Best of luck with it and life in general for 2021

[@gregrsvr3947]

Revs refusing to drop could be an air leak on the intake side.

[@tepil]

Yes, exactly. You can spray starting fluid (be careful!) to check if engine speed changes during idle. Other thing to check that throttle spindle nut is not overtightened - it can cause throttle to stick slightly open now and then.

[@richardblencowe3924]

What i thinking, had this many times, inlet or split hose.

[@richardblencowe3924]

Having those breather pipes off and cleaning the crud out of them, that crud May have been sealing the leak. Also sucking in moisture creating the condensation crud.?

[@gregorymankin2958]

When he said the revs didn't want to drop, the first thing that came to mind was a vacuum leak of some sort. Did you check the vacuum reading at idle before the carb rebuilds? How does it compare to the vacuum reading after the rebuilds?

[@mck4901]

Condense? Drive the car for over an hour for several times so it really heats up and then check this pipe again. Specifically on cold days you get this condense if cars don’t heat up due to short hobby trips.

[@markbennett6658]

A great job on the carb rebuilds Jack but I think you know it’s Tyrell time and sooner would be better than later. The man is clearly an absolute Guru and general legend although he hasn’t been on my radar much longer than you. A chin wag with Scott the Ratarossa might be a good idea too!

[@shanedoyle1057]

Iain really has an encyclopaedic knowledge. Really enjoy his videos.

[@bigilworth]

Tyrell!! So much fun watching you interact with him

[@HappyDaysNI]

Good man Jack. I’d check the oil for signs of moisture. Check the valve timing first, then set up the ignition timing and then look at a vacuum or gasket leak around the carbs.

[@want2cLOTS]

I think you'll be best served by focusing on one problem at a time and don't allow yourself to get distracted by a new discovery mid-fix. Right now your task is to sort the lack of power at the top end. OK so take a look at the cam belts as Iain suggested and make sure the cams are correctly synched. If so, then it sounds like the distributor is the next suspect, given that it has been turned well beyond the midway point. BTW - you've probably looked at this already, but years ago my brother's car had a similar issue: everything appeared correct in the garage and on the road it would rev and accelerate fine at lower speeds, but just wouldn't pull the way it should once the speed got higher. Turned out the fuel pump wasn't able to make full pressure, so couldn't provide enough petrol under full load and high revs. Put in a new one, instantly sorted.

[@andrewgurney6019]

Agree with the comments about Iain Tyrrell the find of 2020 along with Ratarossa and Franies Garage. Keep your chin up Jack, your car is stunning and will get even better and it all makes for great content!

[@Number27]

Thanks you Andrew.. have a great Xmas!

[@YHBW1001]

Hope the Ferrari Santa brings you a bit more luck with the InfluEnzo this Christmas. Lovely to see the Iain being so generous with his time and knowledge. Good luck with the car in 2021.

[@GregoryKane11]

That’s the best one yet. Getting Iain involved is such a brilliant idea. Hope the £££ don’t hurt too much. Well done.

[@andreichichak5242]

Iain's comments about the distributor mechanism is quite important. I helped a neighbour with his Triumph Herald that wasn't running well at all. The bob weights in the distributor were frozen in place with dried out lube, so no mechanical advance. The vacuum advance unit was punctured, so no vacuum advance. The car was running with whatever static advance it was set up at idle. Now, given that your distributor is at the limits of its adjustment range, I'd suggest that your initial static advance is screwed up, and the mechanical advance isn't adequate at high speed because the distributor is in the wrong position. Many things are pointing at incorrect cam timing. Put a timing light on it and see what is going on with that distributor. Just remember, the 308 is likely an interference engine, so if you reset the timing belts incorrectly, you could bend a lot of valves very quickly. Be ultra careful and, if you do adjust the timing belts, rotate the engine by hand and stop if there is any interference and don't press harder.

[@hermannweinzierl356]

When adjusting the throttle, look the little wholes are not open!brasscrew off.use the little 5mm synchroscrews. The little stroke brings not enough gasspeed for the mainsystem by little rev. So you have to use the synchroscrews .Ask Mr Tyrell. This carbs are very sharp

[@paulharrion3398]

Sorry to hear about your woes. Several things spring to mind. If the 'Bob weights' in the distributor are even a tiny bit cruddy the engine will be flat as a fart from the get go. The cam timing should be absolutely bang on. Unfortunately, I think that's where the problem is. Just looking at the position of the distributor raises questions! As for the gunk in the breather pipe. If you are not having to top up the coolant then I don't think the problem is a head gasket/oil cooler (linked to the rad?)/engine rebuild. For every gallon (litre) of fuel the engine burns you will get an equivalent amount of condensation (water) during the combustion process. This will burn off harmlessly if the vehicle is doing long journeys. If it's just popping down the road from time to time then you can guarantee the engine won't dry out and the condensation will mix with the oil and 'emulsify'. This is the gunk you are seeing I think. The other thing that suffers is the exhaust. They tend to corrode from the inside out because of all the water sat in there. Again, this isn't an issue if the vehicle is taken on long (regular) runs. The exhaust gets super hot and the condensation will be burnt off! Best of luck with the car.

[@richardstoddard6647]

Great vid, your perseverance is admirable! Makes me look at my 914 which I’m slowly restoring with new vigour! Happy Christmas. 👍🤘

[@danieldravot341]

The two best tools available to you are your cheque book and Iain Tyrrell.

[@davej9929]

Removing the spark plugs and checking for colour and condition may help with diagnosing the water problem. Also agree with others, the car might need a decent run, and a bit of a thrash to de- moisturise the engine.

[@davecroden9793]

My word ! I’m working on my Alfa 916 and wish I had someone so knowledgeable to speak to for 10 minutes

[@timgosling6189]

If I remember correctly that pipe is part of the blow-by system to allow oil vapour to recycle to the airbox and oil tank. It can get condensation in it, especially if the car does a lot of short runs. The mayo looks bad but the key thing is the condition of the oil tank. If the oil is fine and there's no sign of yuk in there you are likely OK. Remember that the other pipes in this system do connect to the airbox and water can enter there. This system is not part of the engine or oil cooling network so the mayo is unlikely to be due to a gasket or block failure. Clean it out, drive it more, tell us how you get on!

[@polybius22]

Enjoying learning about the 308 and watching your road to victory... Cheers from the States

[@Number27]

Hey thanks Michael and enjoy your weekend!

[@camsmeltzer9388]

You know when all is said and done you'll be the 308 pro everyone seeks out! Sending positive vibes. You'll get it fixed.

[@sparky4878]

The Carburettor Whisperer himself, just down the road from me. However my carb fuelled car would be unseemly in his workshop.

[@davidfoster1762]

What a tactile car ! Great video , hope everything gets resolved in due course.

[@zacknrudi]

If you're not losing coolant then it's water vapor from the combustion process getting past the rings and condensing in the PVC system. It is a normal combustion by-product in all internal combustion engines, most of it leaves via the tailpipe though.

[@Number27]

Thanks.. hoping that is the case

[@angi733]

I really feel for you! what a rollercoaster!! Your videos perfectly show the agony and ecstacy that you many go through when working on their own cars! The closest I have got to your situation is 2 years of Maserati 3200 ownership, also a rollercoaster feeling worried about many things but also loving the car too.

[@Deanxm1]

If your not adding coolant it’s not leaking, lots of idling (low oil temps) and cold weather will cause lots of crankcase condense to form. Sure it will be fine, good luck!

[@Number27]

I hope you’re right!! Thanks for watching!

[@schumi456]

You should do an oil test to see the percentage of antifreeze/water in your oil as well as any metals - copper, tin, lead, etc. That will tell you a lot.

[@Number27]

Yes I might well have to do that!! Thanks for watching!

[@robbo1967]

revs holding high can be a leak between the carbs and the head so check the seals between the exit of the carbs and the entrance to the heads, it doesnt take much of a leak either.

[@Number27]

Have already.. sprayed carb cleaner on bases but no leaks found.. thanks for the suggestion!

[@hanibalmoon794]

Hope you will find the source of the sludge and no rebuild will be needed. Please have a close look at the centrifugal advance (as Ian suggested). Had a similar problem with MGC-SUs and it wasn't carb related, the right advance springs made all the difference. Check with a strob-timer trough the whole rev range... Keep it up!

[@gavintookey9323]

An inability to lower the idle speed can be an indication of an air leak or too much air getting into the induction system. Check the carb mounts. Spray some WD40 around the carbs and see if the engine ramps up. If it does then you have a bad carb to manifold seal.

[@vicgregory7596]

If your still running your airbox mods, reassemble back to factory there’s a reason the engine is setup this way, its quit possible that the colder bank is not warming up as much and thus colder condensing and causing your milky liquid formation.

[@beetleything1864]

Wow so much knowledge to know about the carbs and the cams etc.

[@pyoung168]

Ian definitely knows his stuff. No surprise there. I got the same advice from the experts here in the States re: idle jetting and carb floats with modern fuels. I recall tuning and syncing my rebuilt carbs. I was tutored to do the final adjustments by ear and test drive. Really satisfying when it was done. Also experienced multiple marks on cam banks... actually contributed my fair share 😊. Finally removed them all and went back to original factory marks and verification of piston versus valve positions to get it right. Not sure about condensation in your cross tube. That's a new one for me. Keep your chin up and plugging away at it. Like Ian said it's a very sweet engine that sings at high revs when it's all sorted!

[@Number27]

Thank you Paul!! Hope you have a wonderful Christmas 🎄!

[@hermannweinzierl356]

Use the synchroscrews for idle 4 turns, idlejet 57-58,and you will think there works an injection.distributor not to much forward.

[@supersonique001]

Well just my 3 cents: Remember that a full tune up begins with determining correct timing, proper ignition(spark,wires, distributor(s)advance(s) and then carburetion lastly! You may have gone the other way since the beginning not following any real order. Regarding the idle jets Ian is correct, many carb 308 cars in America now need more now because of fuel differences back in the 70s. because many 308's were fitted with small idle jets to make them run lean for for emission tests but ran poorly(popping and misfire at low rpm) . Going from stock .50 to .55 or .55 to .60 will make a big improvement and needed enrichment. Also make sure the air corrector jets are the same, they are sometimes mismatched due to meddling by former owners. Insofar as revs not returning to idle make sure to check each carb throttle stop screws and and throttle cable adjuster. Keep going, don't give up, all the best for the Xmas Holidays, M from Canada.