Casting Pewter in Silicone Molds

[@PeteRondeau]

See the full carnival ride restoration here: kzbin.info/aero/PL9JRE2uksm9tonX17TZt38K6RH2EnDNf1

[@Jsellers1965]

Use Delrin plastic for pins and voids in your casting and tap the mold as you pour. There's a company from Ireland that makes molds for chess sets they use a black heat activated rubber that works great, Prince August I believe. Use a backer board and clamps to hold your mold closed as well.

[@dbaider9467]

It's great you include all the failures, it's really helpful to see what doesn't work and what does. Great channel.

[@PeteRondeau]

Thank you! And thanks for watching!

[@hondo2160]

Mold turned out nice, Pete! Pouring metal is a blast.

[@PeteRondeau]

Thanks Jason! Once I make the final few changes, I believe the next pour should be a success.

[@Iamnot4Sure]

Ohh I have patiently been waiting for your videos to come on out …. I have been a big fan since you started this restoration project. Keep them coming I look for them all the time . Heck I go back and revisit all them Carnival ride as far back when you transported it in. Keep up the good work, stay safe.

[@PeteRondeau]

Thank you very much!

[@Neruomir]

Pre-heating the mold helps alot as it otherwise cools the metal to fast especially on the thinner sections preventing further flow. On smaller molds i usually cast once cold and that's usually enough to heat the mold to where you want it if you empty it as soon as the metal is solid and recast before the mold cools off.

[@jessejohnson159]

Yes! Preheating that silicone mold is a must! I used a German product like this in Germany back in the early '80's making some parts for a '57 Ford car I still have. That German product was even the same color! I was an Army Staff Sergeant serving and did things like this when off duty.

[@DIYGene]

So close! Great video and so interesting.

[@PeteRondeau]

Thanks Gene!

[@joncraw29]

Mark, that was a very interesting video! Seeing the process, along with the failures is just as important (and interesting!) as the seeing the end results. Many of us may never need to cast an item; nonetheless, being privy to the education offered by watching you solve the problem is interesting, indeed. Too bad I'm not a little closer, I could definitely see myself working on that project while drinking a cold one with you! Regards, Jon

[@Machine_NZ]

Hi Pete, great video. I like this approach to casting using the silicone and its reusable. Looking forward to the next video and seeing the ring form. Regards Kevin

[@PeteRondeau]

Thanks! More metal should be arriving today, very eager to give my final changes a try and see how it comes out!

[@ITZGR82BFREE]

I have found that a little extra part B hardener to the MOLD MAX 60 will make the MOLD last longer.

[@441rider]

Used to use the red vulcanized m[old rubber this looks same colour even. Good alternative to heat being applied.

[@frankelliott4234]

In the future, try painting the silicone in place and filling the backing with caulk or plaster.

[@ibreakstuff815]

Your sprue needs to have equal or greater volume than the castings. Gravity presses the metal into the mold and you need enough weight behind the pour and thats in the sprue. Nice mold though.

[@lenny108]

13:35 They only sell silicone to private customers which goes up to 300 C. The industry has silicone for up to 1700 C.

[@giftheavenly406]

Where could I get that silicone please

[@giftheavenly406]

We're can I get the one the industry has??

[@rickhiggins]

Dude, that styrofoam squeak! LOL! Another great video!

[@PeteRondeau]

LOL. Do I need a trigger warning ⚠️ before that part? Thanks for watching Rick!

[@richardgrimsr.7332]

Hi Pete I am wondering if you pre heat the mold slightly that may help with the flow of material during the pour. Just a thought. Have a great day

[@PeteRondeau]

Hey Richard. That is exactly what I ended up doing (among other tweaks to the mold) and it worked great!

[@workingwithagri2023]

How many times does the molding can be use?

[@PeteRondeau]

At this point I’m really not sure. I had concerns from the very beginning because I had bits of the silicone chipping out. If it continued at the same rate, I wouldn’t have been able to finish the project. But it seemed to get to a point and not get worse. I got 9 pieces cast and i don’t see any further signs of deterioration.

[@sierraecho884]

Preheat the mold in an toaster oven. Also tap it while or right after poring.

[@PeteRondeau]

That is exactly what we did when we made the follow up to this video

[@sierraecho884]

@@PeteRondeau 👍😉

[@richardweyland116]

Maybe not enough metal is the problem. If the ring is at "the end of the line" the metal is cooling off and flowing in to a much finer, thinner space causing even faster cooling. I've worked on a lot of injection molded ABS plastic car parts and can see the amount of sprues that were used to facilitate the flow of the material. ABS cools really fast, I can see the swirls in the surface of the parts so they had to make sure it flowed well.

[@PeteRondeau]

In the follow up video I made a few changes to the mold. Enlarged some runners and preheated the mold. Got it to come out really nice.

[@lenny108]

Right, they do not sell non-toxic Chrome3 sulfate for easy electroplating to private people. The industry has put a stop to this. What still can be done is to electroplate with Copper sulfate and then electroplate with Gold electrolyte. Then you have a nice shiny surface that doesn't require polish.

[@mathewmolk2089]

I you are using metal why not use Green Sand, or Petro Bond? You can use aluminmum or even brass and then you can use actual chrome plating.

[@leapnlarry]

I think i would do 3 separate molds instead of trying to do it all at one time. Larry

[@gordonyork6638]

Haven't seen all of the video yet. But I think you gonna have problems getting the metal to fill the mold. You can use powdered graphite as a mold release, it's slippery. Yup exactly as I thought. You should make your mold on the vertical plane. Yup, you also have problems with your venting. With the mold made vertically is that gravity to help pull it into the mold. I made molds and casting pewter 22 years ago for a warning project.

[@PeteRondeau]

I was successful in the follow up episode. Preheated the mold and enlarged some risers and vents.

[@ph1gm3nt]

@@PeteRondeau I was thinking using risers and/or a tilt added to the mould so you get some gravity assist. And maybe switch to aluminum it’s practically free (soda cans in the trash). Granted it’ll look like an aluminum piece rather than a chrome one.

[@sublimationman]

heat the mold up before pouring.

[@PeteRondeau]

That is exactly what I ended up doing in the follow up video. :)

[@josephb3147]

Moldmax 60 sucks... it is brittle... heating the mold would help... there are other products that could help... like a spray called SLIDE... you could also try pouring it inside of a vacuum chamber... I have used Moldmax 60 and wouldn't consider using it again... try moldmax 50 or something as it will hold up and take the heat of pewter, especially for short runs... vacuum casting would work if you have the equipment = think jewelry making