Casting the Most Powerful Two Stroke Part 4 - 2nd try.

Almost got it this time!
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[@shug831]

Don't be dismayed, you are doing a fantastic job.

[@artoriusrex4358]

Absolutely!! Casting such a complex model would be unheard of in a DIY home foundry only a few years ago!! Isn't it a fantastic age that we now live in now where information is widely available and free to all with the determination to succeed and using only simple and cheap tooling (if you consider 3d printers primitive which they essentially are when you understand how they work). Using 3d models to make your mold is a giant leap for people like us that love to do things like this on our own. Many moons ago we would've had to mix sand with a resin to make cores where we don't want metal to flow and then support them somehow which is what really used to be the hard part and separate the men from the boys when it came to making these molds entirely by hand alone. I purchased my first printer and then after wanting to go through the process of upgrading certain parts like stepper motor driversand a few peripheral gadgets in my case which soon made me realise how simple they are so built a second. I'm not a programmer so understanding the code took me a while to get my head around but once you know how to manipulate the important functions it is then not long before you know all you need to, If I had to write code from scratch then I would've struggled but so much is open source so you only need to tweak certain parts of the code to fit your printer. I then made one with a larger bed and also incorporated a printing head into my 3d router to give me as much space as I needed along X and Y, Z is the only dimension at which I am limited but will fix that when I really need to which is not right now. The only thing I've yet to find as a cheap and simple way to make a cost effective heated bed is my last remaining challenge which will then allow me to reliably print some pretty large objects, I currently have a bed size of 1 3/4m x 1 1/5m

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@kareldegreef3945]

@@artoriusrex4358 you answered just what i was thinking while watching this ;-) amazing => he can be truly proud of himself + i love that he finally is getting more subs => he deserves more because he's unique and fun to watch and listen to ;-) we can all learn from each other from this experience :-D

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks man!

[@jttech44]

Seriously, this is his second casting ever, and it's huge, and complicated, and has to be right. He's an absolute freak of nature to be doing this well already.

[@skwyrz1]

I am a retired chainsaw mechanic of 45 year's,I have done zillions of hot rod saw's over the year's and I truly believe you are on to something with this design,I am in suspense to see the final outcome,Please don't give up and as you know nothing worth a damn comes easy.Also please add a slide down L bracket to that pot picker to secure it.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! L bracket is a good idea!

[@sinformant]

@@2STROKESTUFFING maybe make a second holder that holds the crucible horizontally loosed to the shaft you hold onto. Use the one you made to lift it out of the foundry, sit it down and pick it up with the other then all you have to do is rotate the handle and pour it sideways.

[@sinformant]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g16qdIdtjJJ1jdk

[@athhud]

I was thinking the same thing about a slide rod to hold the crucible. I was picturing some more like a “Z” turned sideways though.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Was actually going to, but was pressed for time.

[@PaletoB]

This is some Burt Munro stuff right here.

[@shaneball3964]

"The world's fastest french fry!"

[@kphillips7922]

Wtf,French fry?.worlds fastest kiwi.

[@topphemlig1191]

Being a father and doing all that work... wow! You're doing a great job my friend

[@PenZon]

The future is looking promising for this project. I think integrating the water jacket to the cast is good. I also think adding the central channel is good. Losing narrow channels can only have two reasons: not enough riser height and/or not a hot enough mould. But you can fix both of those issues when you can bake the plaster in the kiln. And remember to keep the mould as hot as you can for as long as you can for the best possible flow.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! Realized the plaster isn't that hard to remove so I'm giving the jacket a try.

[@edgar9651]

Good job! You will get there. I like especially that you show what you do long enough for us to follow but not too long. And no unnecessary music and no unnecessary talking. That is much better than all those videos with lots of talking, lots of music and not much else. I am looking forward to see the next part. Enjoy!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@patrick247two]

The power of the Number Eight Wire is strong in this one. Excellent work, guru of the two stroke.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍 😁 Thanks

[@pauldean8638]

It's like when you crack eggs for an omelet, first you use two hands and still get shell into the bowl ,soon enough comes one hand strike and no shell in sight apart from the bin ,wish we all could get it first time but life has a tendency for us to fail so we learn why so we don't replicate it ,your last cast to this one looks vastly better , sharp learner , always a pleasure watching your vids

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks, good analogy!

[@johnrobinson357]

From the start i felt this concept was genius. High confidence in your success - this may well change everything about 2 strokes. I am beside myself waiting for the first run. Few things good happen quickly.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@frederik.h.n9502]

Its sad that 2 stroke is dying. Hope it Will be a succes love your videos

[@dangerousdoggo5465]

2 stole? lol

[@haugstule]

plot twist: in some cases 2 strokes are more desirable than 4 strokes still. snowmobiles will always be produced with 2 stroke option. if the right guy/gal with right the right amount of lust decides to make a two-stroke race-motorcycle to prove a point, he/she might do so: leaving four-stroke-mongers in the dust!

[@4stroke4wheels4life8]

@@haugstule why insulting 4 strokes when they last 10 times more, are more reliable and more efficient???

[@4stroke4wheels4life8]

@@haugstule just today ive seen a video of a dude riding a snowmobile and it blew, guess what it was a 2 stroke...

[@haugstule]

@@4stroke4wheels4life8 look, i can be watching tractor-pulling all day, that doesn't leave me with the same stupid conclusion as you. and if you got insulted you're a four-stroke-monger...

[@blkmustang007]

Been watching for a while now... lately you have been on a whole other level.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks 😁

[@seths7036]

i have a 04 zuma 50cc stock top speed is 40 with the wind at your back im now at 65 and time for a bigger carb i wouldn't have ever even started to modify it if it wasnt for you and your and your videos they have helped me so much i cant wait for you to get this project finished and start to put some ponies on the dyno with it

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Awesome, thanks!

[@TeDoFwAr]

Such an inspiring series... I am hanging out to see this beast run... Thanks to guys like you who give me a reason to crack on with my own engine projects... Though I just rebuild what others have built before me

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@JamesD1776-uc]

Mannn it's looking better and better every time!!!! It'll all work out!!!! Much respect for you brother!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@shaneball3964]

*AN ALUMINUM CASTING TIP* -when you're finished with your design, go back to smaller joints on the outside of your model and give them more width or an excess of space so the aluminum has more room to fill; reducing those areas that haven't filled-milling the excess down later. OORR... get your cast sand mold HOT before you cast so the thinner areas wont cool as quickly which blocks the molten aluminum from entering those little cavities (this method will make for a rougher cast that you will have to sand down as the alloy will fill all imperfections in the sand mold) "EASY IS NOT WORTH ANYTHING!!" ^^ Wish you the best Duder!!!!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@peterbaranyai6057]

Everyone : The joke I made about " making phentenal for me " , was purely to amuse you and only you. !!! . I see you putting in a lot of thought , Not to mention blood , sweat and tears . I was once a Heroin addict ,( sober 20 YEARS ) , and I was high functioning . Meaning I was able to function but was required to be put on Methadone when I enlisted and served . I know few who could do what you do if not Sober . I see you making your own " Blasting Furnace , Urn and the implements to handle the containers that hold the molten AL . Anyone who subscribed to your channel knows you are 100% Totally sober . That's coming from someone on Methadone ,who would no longer have the ambition to see any of the projects start and finish. You have the drive to perfect and finish this new design 2 stroke !!! I wish you nothing but success and hope we have an awesome Cylinder head under your patent, sooner than later! P.S : when I started receiving a bunch of Thumbs up , Liked Comments etc , it hit me that I might unintentionally hurt your channel or Patreon donations. The last thing I want to do because of the sacrifice ,time and money required to do what you do!!! My name was real and again it was meant to be a joke !!!! I honestly love your channel so keep on keeping on !!!

[@mitchs7599]

Looking fantastic mate, you're progressing in leaps and bounds. Truely impressive!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@Snw-vi6xd]

Wow dude, what you are doing is absolutely amazing, ive dabbled in casting and i know how hard it is, your alot closer than i thought and this will be amazing once finished! Cant imagine how proud youll be once its done!

[@julienboucaron9780]

Getting better and better. Impatient to see the next iteration. Keep pushing, it is not far away !

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@reinokotze]

0:38 The spiderman masked kid in the background. That was so random it was funny.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

😂 One of the few words he know is "Spider-Man"

[@jnuxca]

wow surface quality looks good! and doesn't look like porosity is a problem now, epic work, can't wait for the third attempt

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Yep, looking good, thanks!

[@draggonhedd]

Getting your mold hotter will REALLY help with the thin walls and find details. Also look into boron, silicon (more than 8% silicon by mass), and magnesium additives to lower the viscosity of the aluminum, and increase the range of working temperatures. With those added you can work with the aluminum at higher temperatures and fill down to a 2mm wall thickness without issue. However, you will need at least twice as tall of a sprue (and it needs to be FULL, melt more aluminum for this), the mold will need to be as hot as you can manage without it compromising the integrity of the plaster as well. Good luck dude and try again! You're making fantastic progress.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks for the tips!

[@SteveBuffel]

You almost have it!! The 125cc & 500cc cylinders that an Italian foundry does for me at BRC Racing have gates that feed into the bore. I've never seen them directly feed the bridges. Your concept might work too, so good luck!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@mcmr4923]

Fantastic, honest video. Your polystyrene struggles cracked me up.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! It was annoying!

[@SharkyMoto]

throw burning paper or bbq ignite cube in the furnace and then turn the propane on, saves your beard and eyebrows :D

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Good tip! Actually trimmed my eyelashes too!

[@ben6bh]

Bet he's doing this at like 2am in the morning cos he can't sleep until it's done getting kinda hooked on his vids now👍

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

That's exactly how it is!

[@sharkbaitsurfer]

I really admire your determination, ingenuity and ability to learn new things - it's very inspirational indeed!

[@sizzlean9459]

I Love how you use the welding hood to funnel the fumes up into the sniffer, nothing Knows better than the Nose!!! YaHsome job bro, very nice job. Peace Sizzlean

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍 😁 Thanks!

[@SharkyMoto]

i have also noticed, that throwing in small thin parts first creates a molten puddle that is able to melt down bigger chunks much faster, but cant entirely confirm, may only be a placebo for me :)

[@paulmourot1096]

Wow this one looks incredible ! What an improvement !

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@mattrenegar476]

Awesome. Can't wait for the next video!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@m3n4lyf]

I've watched a lot of your videos, and a lot more from others, but now you are the owner of the only channel I get notifications from.

[@m3n4lyf]

If I had money to give, it would be yours. This drink is for you. Good luck.

[@TheLucastrindade]

I believe 98% successful, the 2% now is machinery work, great work brother

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@wizard-ew5ze]

Nice attempt , I would recommend heating up that mould before pouring though , maybe have it in the ovan then take it out just when u need it,

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! I did exactly that, it was at 300C when I poured, max for my oven. Next time I'll use the kiln to get it above 400C.

[@Sam3LS]

Nice job your almost there. Take a look at s3parts video casting a cylinder, study it to see how metal flows into the cylinder. The cylinder bore is basically used as the riser. utilizing the bore will allow more heat to be retained but also create hydraulic pressure to fill the narrow parts of the cylinder. My suggestion is to redesign your gates on runners to simply have more volume so the retain more heat. you want to imagine metal flowing in to the cavities then up your riser tube you want the narrow sections to stay hot . You want metal to flow in and gas to escape. Pretend your porting the mold for max metal flow. Second get an old electric oven and preheat the mold, do some testing first with temperature and ramp rate to make sure you don't fracture your mold you may have to heat soak it below the water boiling point for a bit so it doesn't fracture. This will help you retain heat in the mold as well. You can get it to work don't get discouraged.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! My third attempt has one fat riser, currently sitting in the oven at 300C. This time I'll bring it above 400C with the kiln prior to casting.

[@jonnovandereng3141]

So cool, looking very good already! Can’t wait for the next upgrade your going to make!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@ritzevespa]

You're are so far with this :) I think we all want to see run in the future :)

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍

[@deanhepworth5638]

Good effort buddy. This has been a little bit like watching wallace and grommit build their orange moon rocket. Nice grinder guard too ;)

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@Gazgit555]

3rd TIME LUCKY ???? GREAT PROJECT

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Hoping so, thanks!

[@obancameron]

Well done, big improvement over first prototype!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@coreypuck3295]

Looks great! Keep up the awesome casting. Can't wait to see it machined.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@diegobacchi]

I if you have a problem with the wall between exhaust and transfer I think you should modify the model, leaving the exhaust port smaller at the moment of the casting. Then you can mill the material off after the casting. You have to do that also for the cylinder bore, If you want for example 39mm cylinder you have to cast at least 37,5mm then work it with a lathe.

[@hopsgarage5513]

a scale and some white powder... lol i see were this is going

[@AlexanderGrahn]

Good job, nice improvement since last attempt!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@Sketch1994]

You should try adding a bulging half sprue over the thin transfer port sections so that the aluminum can start filling them from both sides. To make sure they will be completely removed after the final machining you can also make the cast bore a little smaller. I think 2-3 more passes in the boring operation is a small cost for an epic prototype! As a simpler and safer (for the machining side of things) alternative you can just let the cast thin walls protrude and join with the thicker portion of the casting. This way there won't be so much unsupported material to be bored out. Keep in mind that a cast piece might sometimes not even resemble the finished part, thus you can get very creative with the areas that will be machined afterwards, but that's already a serious improvement (even for such a successful first attempt). PS: Waiting a little more until you quench the casting in water won't hurt. The sudden cooling will add huge amounts of residual stresses between thin and thick sections due to the different cooling rate.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks for the tips!

[@razor1uk610]

@@2STROKESTUFFING let it cool slowly, even sit it the powered off cooling down oven (from heating the mould pre-pour) perhaps, with the door not fully 100% closed...? at least, for the cylinder castings that you will machine and test run, before further design refinements.

[@mitchellbaker4847]

@@razor1uk610 in ferrous sacrificial sand molding we let it air cool completely overnight in the mold before knock out and if necessary add polystyrene blocks to the mold if contraction is a concern (some materials/geometries/weights especially). But each foundry/foundryman has a different way to skin a cat.

[@MrNursi]

Fantastic! Looking good, I'll drink to the next attempt!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks, cheers!

[@pascalverheijden5110]

You're close... Much better prepared this time. Like the result shows.

[@artoriusrex4358]

Very enjoyable viewing, the degassing seems to have eliminated one of your first initial problems which is good to see. Some people when degassing wrap the flux up in aluminium foil and plunge it deep into the molten liquid, I don't know if that's how you did it or not but just thought I should mention it, I've also seen people make good casting using aluminium foil so you might want to experiment with that as I have a feeling that as far as aluminium goes it should be almost completely free from any impurities. What do you think is the cause of the problem with the transfer ports? Is it because as the aluminium flows into the mold a high pressure air pocket is being formed therefore preventing the molten aluminium from flowing to all the parts needed? If so just try to introduce another vent/sprue for pressure relief in that area might be a solution, it's obviously difficult for me to see from here but that might be something to consider. Obviously then you will have another sprue to remove and of course I cannot see if that is a problem or not? It's very encouraging though, there is certainly a vast difference between your first pour and this on which must be a great feeling knowing that you are making process. You really have decided to throw yourself into the deep end casting such a complex model but hey, everyone has got to start somewhere and as the saying goes "in for a penny in for a pound". I'm pretty sure that you will crack it eventually, everyone goes through this process of elimination when casting complex models so don't give up, I'm pretty certain that you are very close to getting the result that you want to ultimately achieve. Congrats!! And keep going!!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! Did the foil thing and plunged it. The port problem is either shrinkage, rapid cooling, or both I think. Next model will have a feeder connected directly to the bridges.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Yes. Had it at 300°C, will go higher next time.

[@philno]

Good casting aluminium has silicon present,

[@razor1uk610]

I wonder if having one or two (or three+) gas escape risers from the lip/ridge area of the inner bore exhaust port that passes up/down the mold through the middle of the cylinder bore would also help release gas pressure from distorting the cast flow as it gets traped in the shallow angle apex of the port walls? and other areas that might have problems still around the inner mold/casting area. ...as there being no single or double verticle bars/port walls in the exhaust port to let trapped gas escape from the slope of the exhause port walls?? Also, Mr. 2Stroke, I would get the internal casting problems solved/fixed, in your PLA design evolution before you then add the water jacket casing - as this currently lets you examine the internal casting easier. Sorry I am to be a pain/asshole, it is not intended. Please have a dram of rum if needs be ;)

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

This is what I'm going for, trying with the water jacket tho, have a big access hole on the bottom face.

[@jaycecarr3909]

Nice to see ya back

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@melissastancato6546]

This is amazing stuff! Keep up the good work. Are you doing any mold-flow simulation stuff? Have you considered adding another gate to the problem areas between the transfer ports and exhaust port? May need to isolate those difficult to fill areas and gate them directly.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! I'm trying with a feeder connected directly to the dividers to see if that helps.

[@YorHighness]

Damn I love these kind of you tube videos.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@peterbrown172]

Hi. Great video! Have a look at this guy, he's been doing some Ali. Casting too. He's been using home made" greensand" the same stuff as the pro's use. He seems to get quite a lot of fine detail in the molds too. Best part is the sand can be reused a few times. He's also done lost PLA casting like you are doing too. Good luck, you have made a leap forward in your quest.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

You forgot the link...

[@peterbrown172]

🤪🤪🤪🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpmze6Sdrqh-l6c that’s what happens when you try to do something remotely “clever “ late at night when you should be asleep 😂😂😂😂😂

[@E-Fire]

Dont give up! Dont forget to make one more cylinder when you succeed. Always good to have a spare

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@SharkyMoto]

the surface finish of the part looks great... if you pour a bit hotter and maybe pre-heat the mold just a little bit it may work just the bit better you need. 3d printing is such a great tool... before they existed you would not have been able to produce parts like that at home. i mean, its not easy now either but in theory i could print your models and make my own engine block with really basic equipment. that just amazes me too much. i'm looking forward to part 3 and i hope we get to see the machining of it, thats gonna be another big challenge i recon!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! Yep, a bit hotter might just do the trick! 3d printing is awesome for this purpose!

[@goatslayerwp]

Make sure your mold is thoroughly preheated before you pour, then put in a vacuum chamber.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍

[@gallupcustomknives2293]

Beautiful work. Perhaps needs some agitation/vibration on the mold while pouring to get all the air bubbles out of the liquid aluminum?

[@ledegraw]

Holy nice pour just finished the video and so close I can feel the heartbeat of the two stroke beast coming to life soon hell yeah congrats on the improvements. Do you know anyone who could do an xray or ultrasound to check for inclusions or voids. From what I see in the video it is very solid looking.P.S. lol thanx for letting me live life vicariously through you! And this pour looked much safer for you well done!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! I should ask around for xray equipment.

[@DeWoodysShop]

Looks like you made a lot of progress! Would a different casting orientation help form the walls? For example flipping the cylinder in the mold so it fills from the bottom of the cylinder.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! I might flip it next time, still working on the model/gating.

[@georgekaritzis2374]

Great video, We learn as we go , this is going to be a long process and we are at the beginning ! Keep up the great work

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@SirTodd]

Very impressive. Absolutely love your content. Very brilliant, sir!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@SirTodd]

@@2STROKESTUFFING no, thank you! For real.

[@bobuilt10]

Just watching your latest vid! I guess you have been talking to someone who knows a thing ir two about designing pour basins and oxide traps in to the sprue and the importance of clean metal. Your doing amazingly well for a newbie to the casting game and I take my hat of to you.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! Yep, been doing lots of research and taken advice from a bunch of people!

[@Spiral_King_Customs]

Yo I just 3d printed a rotary engine I am designing. But this is great. Take your time with this third one. Your casting using that goop is probably the only thing stopping you from achevining acuracy. Master the mold, get a strong engine block.

[@jandeman198]

awesome, fantastic, brilliant AND great to watch. thanks!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks man!

[@ninjanelly3506]

How about casting the exhaust cooling passages but leave them open each end (bit like a YPVS system) and just put some large threaded plugs to seal the coolant in afterwards? Anything to simplify the casting process? Bigger holes will flow better than small ones won’t they? Keep at it mate 👏👏👍🏻😎

[@Stoney3K]

Great, now I want aluminium cupcakes too.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

😂👍

[@greggreg6975]

awesome!!!.. cant wait till you start it!🍻

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@pXnEmerica]

A bit of wood under the metal on the drill press should help you get cleaner holes/less cleanup. If you were already aware and took the lazy route, I'll shaddap :P Awesome to see the progress for something I've wanted to do for years now. As for constructive criticism, slightly sidetracked with the primitive tech style, attention lost at points along the way. I think the nature ambience helps with his videos.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks, and thanks for the criticism!

[@rodwalpole8340]

Nice work mate ? The cracking of your moulds ,need to ramp temp up and down have had extensive exp in this field casting alloy dies for roof tiles , also band your mould if any moisture present at casting should stop the expansion of your mould, hope this will help abit, Cheers from Australia , keep the nice stuff going , and question what the Missus thinks .

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks for the tips!

[@MrOddsen]

Time for Våler again and a hopefully new pokal . But I should have a run or two in the dyno . is it possible ?

[@MatsNorway]

Looks real good.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@bobwhite5440]

casting looks much improved. there's an old saying "third times a charm". i believe you will nail it next time.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks, crossing fingers!

[@haugstule]

passion with nice pants is what i'm seeing

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

😁👍

[@oscarzt1652]

that looks great. good job

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@traktor1895]

maybe you can get ave to cut it in his 5 axis cnc, if he can.

[@laburette]

Great job Man, you are so close,take attention with the water box to be sure plaster fill it everywhere (up side down ). be strong !! 👍👍💪💪💪💪

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@leebuilds]

Hotter shell and more pour pressure. Fastest you can dump it safely

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks, good plan!

[@sillen3000]

Amazing as usual! Next time it will be PERFECT!

[@sillen3000]

EASY IS NOT WORTH ANYTHING! 🙏🏼

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@anunentitledmotivatedmille7731]

like the video right away cus i know its going o be good anyway.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍 😁 👍

[@MrNielzz007]

Super job, really looking forward to the end product. Got a question, what is your best way to make auxilliry exhuast ports in a cilinder. kind regards Niels!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! A combination of a long drill bit and a 90deg tool - tricky stuff!

[@_angel_rox_2066]

How about to put de Peace with the mold in a vacuum champer to get out all the air out of the Channels?

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Might build one!

[@alltheboost5363]

So close... I can't wait for the next attempt

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍

[@Vhdrumm3r]

Amazing work!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@thomasmcpherson7584]

Can your vibrate the mold when the metal is poured in? Might help the metal move into all the areas better?

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Interesting idea!

[@celeronsuxbigtime]

Third time is the charm! Two steps closer! Is there a flow problem in the mold for the thin walls? You might just have to thicken them, and hog it out after casting!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! Might be, I've added a feeder to the bridges, let's hope that'll help.

[@teotwawki_je]

Hmm, Would the exhaust/transfers issue be helped if it were supported by a buttress to an inner core (where the piston would be) that you machine-out after?

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

I'm hoping so cause that's what I'm trying next.

[@bricelarie6527]

Won't it be interesting to built an insulated steel tank for the plaster mold to avoid temp shocks or at least its place onto the exhaust vent the furnace ? Does the plaster absorb the water due to the flamme ? Can't it be solved by an insulated "cooking" tank placed upon the vent the furnace with the same venting process that would allow to know the temp the mold ? First try was ringing right from there ... Second one look much better ... Things on their ways . Keep it opening minds .

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Cool ideas, thanks!

[@TOURNOIS.Racing]

Nickel mon vieux Stuffing :)

[@adrienbarros2619]

TOURNOIS Racing Salut Gros ! Je savais pas que t'étais aussi a l'internationale lol

[@MW-Modellbau]

Looks good but you have to pour the Aluminium much faster, filling up the mould tvis size should only take 3-5 seconds. Best lucks for number 3✌

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! I'll pour faster next time!

[@jacksonbermingham2168]

need you to sum up my life with a video like this haha gold

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍 😁 👍

[@bryancromwell9625]

Preheat your mold, Will drive the moisture out and help the metal flow better.

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Had it at about 300C,will try hotter next time.

[@pauloconnor7951]

Good going !!!!!!!. You'll be an expert very soon !

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@blackjackjwh]

Hey can couldnt tell if you heated up the mold or not but doing so would help prevent the mold from cracking.

[@NurdRage777]

Keep up the good work !

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@Consulting157]

Great work bruh

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@Yakcm2]

Awesome content as usual !...can’t wait to see the running engine but, If you make more than 40hp with it I’m going too sell my Harley, it would Just be embarrassing too know that you could out race me with a moped ! Lol. Keep up the great work !

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks! There's a long way to 40hp...

[@maciekm7953]

I love this project 👍 and I know You will make it sooner or later :) You do great job 👏

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks!

[@cobyhosford6554]

so , what are your thoughts on cylinder offsetting/

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Doesn't do much...

[@sicks6six]

what cc you working towards, they are the biggest transfers I've seen, looks very much like an early piston ported Yamaha RD barrel DX air cooled, are you buying a piston for it or casting one, what crankcase you using ?

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

50cc, custom case.

[@j.patino8148]

YOU ARE "NORWEGIAN" ARTIST!! ☝️👍👏👏👏👏🤔💪💪💪

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Thanks, I'm Norwegian tho.

[@j.patino8148]

@@2STROKESTUFFING sorry. you english is good . I'am peruvian . 16 years ín Spain . but my english not is very good. 🤔 . I'am learning a litlle mechanics thanks to you .. thanks bro..

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

👍 😁 Thanks!

[@vnsworkshop9961]

Hi! You already know about which kind of layer you will use for surface of the cilynder? I can help you searching here in Italy for nichel-silicium,GILNISIL galvanic layer for cilynder. We have many, just name one Gilardoni ( Como ) or Monardi (bologna)or Cylinder line (parma). You can search on internet, the can give you any answer about cylinders. Very important is the amount of layer,usually some micron (2 or 3) but...someone told me a secret about 5 micron thickness on a 54 mm diameter that give best result on 125 gp. Hoping you successfully reach your target!! And the final step will the right exhaust pipe for your new engine. Ciao